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1 


'  !f;:-- 


•^  ■^. 


K;. 


■^  V 


THE  LIBRARY 
OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


•/^» 


A    TOUR 


SOUTH     AFRICA, 


WITH  NOTICES  OF 


VATAL,   MAUETTIUS,  MADAGASCAE,  CEYLON, 
EGYPT,  AND  PALESTINE. 


By   J:  J.  FKEEMAN,        /  7  7-  ''»-^ 

HOME    SECRETARY    OF   THE    LONDON   MISSIONARY    SOCIETY. 


LONDON : 

JOHN    SNOW,    35,    PATERNOSTER    ROW. 

1851. 


LUNDON : 

nr.V.X)  AND  PARDON,  PRINTERS, 

PATERNOSTER    ROW. 


P  E  E  P  A  C  E. 


In  the  Autumn  of  1848,  I  was  requested  by  the 
Directors  of  the  London  Missionary  Society  to  proceed 
to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  with  the  view  of  visiting 
their  numerous  Missions  in  South  Africa  ;  and  from 
thence  to  proceed  to  the  Island  of  Mauritius,  to  visit 
the  Missions  there  ;  and  particularly  to  institute  in- 
quiries respecting  the  Native  Christians  in  Madagascar, 
and  the  prospects  of  that  still  afflicted  country. 

Having  accomplished  these  objects,  I  preferred  to 
take  the  Overland  Eoute  on  my  way  home,  instead  of 
returnmg  by  the  Cape  ;  and  I  accordingly  proceeded 
from  Port  Louis  to  Ceylon,  where  I  embarked  for  Suez. 
Having  passed  some  little  time  in  Egypt,  I  visited 
Palestine,  and  returned  from  Beyrut  to  England,  by 
way  of  Alexandria  and  Malta. 

My  Official  Report,  on  the  various  points  of  business 
with  which  I  had  been  intrusted,  as  the  Society's 
Deputation,  I  have  presented  to  the  Board  of  Directors, 
by  whom  it  is  made  the  basis  of  conference  in  appro- 
priate committees. 

But  numerous  friends,  beyond  those  of  my  own 
private  circle,  have  kindly  expressed  the  wish  that  I 
would  publish  some  account  of  my  tour,  together  with 
a  distinct  notice  of  sundry  collateral  matters  that 
have  fallen  under  my  observation.  I  have,  therefore, 
prepared  the  following  pages  for  the  press. 

In  doing  so,  my  principal  object  has  been  to  assist 
in  deepening  and  extending  that  interest  in  Protestant 


IV  PKEFACE. 

Missions,  and  the  welfare  of  the  ahoriginal  races, 
wliieh  is  ah-ead}'  so  earnestly  cherished  by  the  Christian 
and  intelligent  public.  In  the  prosecution  of  this  aim, 
I  have  wished  to  present  as  large  an  amount  of  informa- 
tion as  I  could,  regarding  the  actual  state  and  progress 
of  Missions  in  South  Africa,  and  more  especially  of 
those  connected  with  the  London  Missionary  Society. 

The  Tom*  itself  could  not  be  accomplished  without 
its  fatigue  and  some  inconveniences.  But  the  gi'atifi- 
cations  attending  it  have  far  outweighed  these ; — the 
gi-atification  of  witnessmg  many  scenes  of  permanent 
moral  interest,  and  of  mingling  with  men  of  gi-eat 
Christian  enterprise  and  benevolence  ; — the  gratification 
of  trying,  at  least,  to  promote  the  prosperitj^  and  hap- 
piness of  others ; — the  gratification  of  marking  the 
progi'ess  of  Christian  IVIissions,  and  their  influence  in 
elevating  the  Native  Tribes  of  Africa.  In  addition  to 
all  this,  were  the  frequent  charms  of  scenery  and 
climate,  of  novelty  and  variety  ;  the  new  aspects  under 
wliich  to  view  men  and  customs,  laws  and  institutions, 
with  innumerable  facts  relative  to  Colonies  and  Colo- 
nization, and  the  condition  of  the  Native  Tribes,  both 
in  theii'  Aboriginal  and  Transition  state. 

I  kept  as  ample  a  journal  during  my  torn*  as  I  could; 
yet  I  confess,  I  sometimes  found  myself  too  much 
occupied  through  the  day,  and  too  wearied  at  its  close, 
to  fill  the  pages  as  I  desired.  I  have,  however,  made 
ample  use  of  it  in  preparing  these  pages,  and  I  have  thus 
tried  to  make  my  readers  feel  as  though  they  had  been 
my  companions,  to  go  over  the  gi^ound  and  witness  the 
scenes  I  did,  to  share  largely  in  my  pleasures,  and  to 
be  spared  all  my  inconveniences.  This  remark  will 
explain  the  method  which  I  have  pursued  in  the  fol- 
lowing pages. 


PREFACE.  V 

I  have  not  given,  first,  chapters  embracing  an  out- 
line of  the  route,  then  some  chapters  on  the  state  of 
Missions,  and  the  special  objects  of  my  visit,  and  then 
finally  some  notices  of  incidental  matter;  but  I  have 
endeavoured  to  blend  these  together.  I  go  over  the 
route,  and  endeavour  to  describe  what  I  found  in- 
structive and  interesting  in  it ;  I  pause  from  time  to 
time  at  the  Mission  Stations,  and  describe  them,  and 
then  introduce,  wherever  it  seemed  appropriate,  notices 
of  whatever  I  regarded  as  useful,  although  incidental 
and  subordinate. 

Having  given  an  ample  "  Table  of  Contents,"  I 
have  not  deemed  it  necessary  to  provide  an  "  Index." 
But  it  may  facilitate  a  reference  to  any  particular  sub- 
ject, if  I  indicate  here  the  principal  matters  to  which 
the  Chapters  are  respectively  devoted : — 

The  1st,  2nd,  and  3rd  Chapters  are  occupied  with  notices  of  the 
Colony,  and  various  Mission  Stations  and  Institutions. 
4th  and  5th  Chapters,  British  KafFraria  and  Madoor's  Country. 
6th  Chapter,  History  of  the  Hottentots. 


7th 

,         Kat  River  Settlement. 

8th 

,         Hottentot  Grievances. 

9th 

,         Kaffir  History. 

10th 

,         Various  Towns  up  to  the  Orange  River. 

11th 

,         Griquas,  and  Missions  among  them. 

12th 

,         Bechuanas,  and  Missions  among  them. 

13th 

,         British  Sovereignty  between  the  Vaal  and  Orange 

Rivers. 

14th 

,         Basuto  Country  and  French  Missions. 

15th 

,         Natal. 

16th 

,         Mauritius  and  Madagascar. 

17th 

,         Ceylon,  Aden,  and  Suez. 

18th 

,         Egypt. 

19th 

,         Palestine. 

I  have  much  pleasure   in  acknowledging  the   kind 
response  of  many  friends  to  my  Circular  ;  but  in  sub- 


TREFACE. 


scribing  to  the  volume,  the  wish  has  been  repeatedly 
intimated  that  the  names  should  not  be  published. 
The  pages  which  the  list  of  names  would  have  occupied, 
I  have  filled  with  details  of  the  "  Tour." 


J.  J.  F. 


4,  Douglas  Road,  Kingsland, 
lith  July,  1851. 


It  may  be  simply  due  to  the  Society  and  myself  to  say,  that  the 
■whole  of  the  expenses  comiected  ■with  the  indirect  portion  of  my 
retiurn  home  through  Egypt  and  Syria,  I  have  met  from  my  private 
resources. 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Frontispiece,  PhUipton,  to  face  Title-page. 
Map  of  the  "  British  Sovereignty," 

■with  small  ^lap  of  South  Africa         to  face  page     1 

49 


xianiiey  j-usuiuiiuii 
Hankey  Inxmdation 

55 

A  Kaffir  and  his  Wife  . 

197 

Ne^wly- discovered  Lake 

„           287 

Mountains  in  South  Africa  . 

344 

Cascade  in  Natal  .... 

348 

Tamatave,  Madagascar 

383 

Travelling  in  Egypt      . 

431 

CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Arrival  at  the  Cape— Table  Bay — Sentiment  during  my  Visit — 
Political  Creed  —  Illustrations — Convict  Question — Moral 
Feeling  of  the  Colony — General  objects  of  my  Mission — Dr. 
Philip — Union  Chapel — Notice  of  the  Colony — Extent, 
Landed  Property — -Exports^Cape  Town — Seat  of  Govern- 
ment— Population — Christian  Ministry — Press — Prepara- 
tion for  Travelling — Startmcr  for  the  Interior 


CHAPTER  II. 

Svrellendam,  Dr.  Robertson — Dutch  Emigrant  Boers — Zuurbrak, 
Vagrancy  Law— Magistrate's  Report — Missionary  Remarks 
on  said  Report — Industry  of  the  People — Debts — D.  Moodie, 
Esq. — Continuance  or  Abandonment  of  Missionary  Institu- 
tions ? — Opinion  of  Dr.  Philip — Roiite  to  Pacaltsdorp — In- 
stitution there — Public  Meeting — George — Cradock  Pass — 
Gate  Kamphoor — Horse  Car  and  Native  Driving — Dyssels- 
dorp — Public  Meeting — Oudshorn — Mineral  Sprmgs — La- 
bour Question — Cango  Caverns — Avontuvu",  Mr.  Hood — 
Anecdote  of  a  Kaffir    .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .10 


CHAPTER  III. 

A  Native  Ministry — Eixropcan  aid  requisite — Hankey  Institution, 
Inundation  —  Machpclah  —  Affecting  Anecdote  —  Tunnel 
Chart— Fertility,  a  Tliousundfbld — Native  Capacities — Edu- 
cation —  ^laps  wanted — Public  Meeting  —  New  Chapel, 
Church-members  and  Rules  of  Church-fellowship — Port 
Elizabeth  —  Fingoes  —  Bethclsdorp  —  Salt  I'an  —  Thomas 
Pringle — Native  Races — Fears  and  Hopes — Contributions — 
Uitenhage — Tea  Party — Thcopolis — Sufferings  from  War, 
1847 — Graham's  Town,  Chapels — Hottentot  Corps  of  Cape 
Mounted  Rifles — Canteens  .......     49 


via  CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Notices  of  the  Country — District  of  Victoria — Xeutral  Territory 
— Makomo — British  Katfraria — Fort  Beaufort — Umxelo  — 
Fingocs — Attack  on  Fort  Beaufort,  Death  of  Ilcrmanus^ 
Diflicultics  of  Missionaries  —  Messrs.  Head — Birklands— 
Amatola  Mountains — Mr.  Caldcrwood — "Alice" — "Love- 
dale" — Missions  in  Kaffirland  to  be  prosecuted — Chumie 
Mountains — Burn's  Hill — Loss  of  Commissariat — Hottentot 
Coiirage — Kaffir  Character — "Knapp's  Hope" — Irrigation — 
Agriculture  superseding  "War — Limited  Locations  —  War 
breaks  out — King  "William's  Town — Companions — Mr. 
Brownlee's  Losses,  no  Compensation — Congregation,  Desire 
of  Improvement — Colonel  Mackimion — Mount  Coke — State 
of  Kafhrland — Hopes — Suspicions — Jan  Tzatzoe — -Mr.  Ross, 
Pcrie — Mr.  BLrt's  Station — Young  Men's  Class — Agricul- 
tural Eflforts — Class  of  Native  "Women — Help  from  England     83 

CHAPTER  V. 

German  Mission  Station,  Bethel — Madoor's  Station,  Freemanton 
— Remedy  against  Avarice — Treatment  of  Madoor — Tam- 
bookies — Kaffir  Argument,  Quit-rent — Letters  from  Madoor 
— Shiloh,  Moravian  Station — Self-supporting — Land  Culti- 
vated— Attacked  in  1847,  Major  Hogg — Our  Allies — Pro- 
ceed towards  the  Kat  River — Messrs.  Read — Letters — Snow 
Storm — Cold — Night's  Accommodation — Roads  Difficult — 
Splendid  View — War — Arrival  at  Philipton — Mrs.  Read      .   110 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Rise  and  Spread  of  Chi-istianity  and  Civilization  among  the  Hot- 
tentots— The  Moravian  Mission  of  1737 — Appeals  of  Travel- 
lers on  Behalf  of  the  Hottentots — Their  Military  Em-olment 
— Missionary  Institutions  after  179o — Commissions  of  In- 
quiry— Circmt  Courts — Absence  of  Law — Compulsory  Ser- 
vice— Personal  Violence — British  Settlers  in  Albany,  1820 
— Commission  of  Inquu-y,  1822 — The  oOth  Ordinance,  or 
Magna  Charta  of  the  Hottentots,  1828 — Kat  River  Settle- 
ment, 1829 — Parliamentary  Committee,  1835-7 — Conduct  of 
the  Hottentots  in  the  Kaffir-  Wars,  1835-46 — Their  subse- 
quent Treatment,  and  present  Condition    .         .         .         .131 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Kat  River  Settlement — Its  Origin — Parties  Emigratuig  thither 
— Enthusiasm — Freedom — Testimonies — Out-stations — Re- 
ligious Institutions — Church  Government — Schools — Press 
— Visit  to  Locations — Scenery — Foliage — Tints — Industrj' 
of  Natives — Native  Hospitality — Geology — Man  in  Lion's 


CONTENTS.  IX 

Page 
INIoiith — Substitute  for  Bells — Kat  River  no  Failure — Treat- 
ment— Exaniination  of  Schools — Printing — Letter  to  Depu- 
tation— Diagrams — Things  that  are  wanting — Scotch  Mission 
— Landscape — Children — Ordination  at  Tidmanton — Testi- 
monial of  Elders  and  Deacons — Native  Improvement — Letter 
from  Van  Rooyen        ..,,....   146 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Strike,  but  hear — Memorial  to  Sir  H.  Smith — Hottentots  at  Bux- 
ton— Letter  from  Colonial  Secretary — Letter  as  to  Buxton 
Hottentots — Expulsion  of  the  People — Expulsion  of  Gona 
Hottentots — Police  Report  of  Expulsions — ^The  Governor's 
Commendation — Letter  from  Mr.  C.  Bro-milee — Letter  fr-om 
the  GoA'ernor — Letter  from  Botha  to  the  Governor — Suffer- 
ings of  the  Gona  Hottentots — Botha's  Letter  of  Expostula- 
tion— Summary  of  the  Case — Cattle  Impounded — Irritation 
of  the  People — "We  are  tired  of  Irritations" — Excitement 
at  Kat  River — Excessive  Exactions — Causes  of  Irritation — 
People's  Appeal  for  Investigation — Letter  from  the  Govern- 
ment— Kat  River  Hottentots        ......  167 

CHAPTER  IX. 

THE    KAFFIR    HISTORY. 

The  Kaffir  Race — The  New  Policy  introduced  by  Earl  Grey 
respecting  British  Intercourse  with  the  Kaffir  Race — The 
Amakosse,  or  Kaffirs  adjacent  to  the  Cape  Colony — Thefr 
Wars  viiih  the  Cape  Colony — The  Kaffir  Chief  Macomo's 
Daughter — Influence  of  British  Policy  in  Kaffirland  upon 
the  Interior  of  South  Africa.         ......  197 

CHAPTER  X. 

Journey  to  Cradock— Kaga  Mountains— Sir  Andiies  Stocken- 
strom — Lord  Glenelg's  System — History  of  the  Colony — 
True  Policy  of  Great  Britam — Cradock  Native  Congi-egation 
— Somerset — Dutch  Reformed  Church — Milk  River — Graaff 
Rcinct — Value  of  Farms — Rev.  Mr.  Muii-ay — Journey  to 
Colesberg — Dr.  Vanderkemp — An  Unexpected  Vis-a-vis — 
Kopjes — Colesberg  Town — Congregations — Intemperance — 
Sagacity  of  a  Dog — -Orange  River  FeiTy-Boat  Roi)e  broken 
—  Comfortable  Prospect  —  Amiable  Wife  —  Crossing  the 
Stream— Eight-horse  Vehicle — Pliilippolis— Mr.  Wright     .  214 

CHAPTER  XL 

Pliilippolis — Property  of  the  Griquas — Attendance  on  Sunday- 
Schools — Education  —  Public  Meeting — Antelopes — Griev- 
ances— Ramah — Backhouse — ^lessrs.  Oswell  and  Murray — 
Corarmas — Leading  out  the  Vaal — Lands  to  be  Irrigated — 


\  CONTENTS. 

PACK 

Surveyor's  Report — Crossing  the  River — Griqua  Town — 
Waterboer — Schools — Bechuana  Women — Geology — Artifi- 
cial Irrigation — Difficulties — Discouragements — Encom-age- 
ments — Uneasiness  as  to  Lands — Treaties— Alienable  and 
Inalienable  Territory — Letter  to  Earl  Grey — Sir  Harry  Smith 
to  Earl  Grey — Remarks  on  the  Letter  to  Earl  Grey — Leav- 
ing Griqua  To^^^l  ........  228 

CHAPTER  XII. 

BECHUANA    COUNTRY    AND    BECHUANA    MISSIONS. 

Daniel's  Kuil — Kuruman  Fountain — Rev.  R.  Moffat — Village — 
Mission  Premises — Gardens — Chapel — Murders — Children 
stolen — Dangers  to  the  Aborigines — Printing  Estabhshment 

—  Hamhana  —  Mission  Committee — Translations  —  Native 
Teachers — Lay  Help — Route  to  Kolobeng— Motito — Migra- 
tory Habits  —  Sitlagole  —  Superstition  —  Dress  —  Desert 
Country  —  Matebe  —  Congregation  —  Matzilikatze  —  South 
African  Wars — "\^'llolesale  Murder — Mabotsa — The  Chief 
Moselele — Khoodoo  —  Serpent  Worship  —  Enormous  Boa- 
Constrictor — Kolobeng — Sechele 258 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

THE    OEAXGE    RIVER    SOVEREIGNTY. 

Explanation  of  the  Name— Extent — Historj-  of  its  Acquisition — 
Pri^y  Council  Report — Colonies,  How  acquii-ed? — Con- 
quest, Cession,  Occupancy — Attorney- General's  Opinion — 
Opinion  reconsidered — Variety  of  Opinions — Final  AiTange- 
ment — Power  of  Legal  Fictions — Dancing  a  Polka — Trans- 
formations— Aiuiexation — Coloui-ed  Races — Bloem  Fontein 

—  Murder  by  some  Bushmen  —  Commando — Murderers 
arrested — Capitally  punished — Elopement — Punished  with 
Death— Lynch  Law — Execution  of  Two  Men  by  Court- 
Martial— thaba  L'nchu—:Moroko—Platberg— Noble  Kloof 
—Rev.  Mr.  Giddy— Thaba  Bossio 295 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

THE    BASUTO    COUNTRY,    AND    TRENCH  MISSIONS. 

Earlv  Residence  of  Moshesh— His  Early  Struggles— Thaba  Bos- 
sio—Polvgamy — Character  of  Moshesh — Humanity  of  his 
Tribe — Waterboer — Moshesh's  Estimate  of  Waterboer  — 
Comprehensive  Views  of  Moshesh — His  Complaints— Treaties 
made  with  him — Governor  :Maitland — Fidelity  of  Moshesh — 
Conduct  of  Government— Moshesh  asks  Redress— Forced  to 
sign  away  his  Territory— Visit  to  Moshesh — Conversation 
with  ^Moshesh — Intelligence  of  the  People— Difficulties  of 
the  Missionary— Appeal  of  Moshesh  to  Her  Majesty— Letter 
from  Moshesh— Letter  to  Lord  John  Russell— Sir  H.  Smith's 


CONTENTS.  XI 

PAGE 

Denial — Extent  of  Territory  Lost — Morija — Feelings  of  the 
People — Printing-press — Conversion  of  Libey — Companions 
separate — Death  of  Miss  Christie— RobertMoffat—Mokuat- 
ling — Attack  of  Corannas — Mission  Station — Cannibal  Caves 
— Caruiibals  •\vatchmg  then-  Prey — Extirpation  of  that  Horrid 
Custom — Visit  to  Bethxilia — Carmel — Taking  Lions  by  the 
Tail — Lion  shot  and  Kid  saved — Beersheba — INIr.  Rolland 
— Absence  of  Children — Cannibalism  ....  309 

CHAPTER  XV. 

NATAL. 

Journey  to  Umpakani,  Imparani — SikonyeUa — Liebenberg's  Vlei 
— Eland's  River — Harrismith — Brick-maker — Lion  Skin — 
Room  for  Farmers  —  Horse-sickness — Diihcult  Ground  — 
Magnificent  View  —  Appearance  of  the  Country  —  Zoolu 
Kaffirs — Cascade — Pieter  Maiiritzbiu-g^ — Native  Popidation 
— Farms — Emigrants — Indaleni — Mr.  Alison — Civilization 
— Uysdooni — Dr.  Adams — Character  of  the  Coimtry — 
D'Urban— Port  Natal— The  Bar  and  Bluff— Mr.  Holden— 
Panda — Native  Foreigners — American  Missions — New  Ger- 
many— Cotton — Sugar — Leave  Natal  for  Cape  Town   .         .  340 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

MAURITIUS  AND  MADAGASCAR. 

Return  to  Cape  To-wn — Interview  with  the  Governor — Go- 
vernor's Defence  —  Inquiry  demanded — Murder — Educa- 
tion— Arrival  in  Maui-itius — David  Ratsarahomba — Chapel  in 
Port  Louis — Services — Former  Slaves  and  Indian  Coolies — 
Madagascar  —  Moka,  Mission  Station — Malagasy — David 
Johns  Andrianado  —  Nouvelle  Decouverte — Paoly — Plam 
WUhelras — New  Chapel — Extinct  Volcano — Madagascar — 
Letter  from  the  Queen — Trade  -with  Madagascar — Origin  of 
Recent  Dispute  with  Madagascar — A  Humiliating  Exhibi- 
tion— Native  Cruelty — Ships  to  Madagascar — Dr.  Taval — 
Loss  to  British  Government — Roman  Catholics  in  Mauri- 
tius— Church  of  England — Other  Denominations — Influenza  3GG 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

CEYLON ADEN SUEZ. 

Leave  Mauritius — GaUe  in  Ceylon — Native  Canoes — Route  to 
Colombo — Colombo — Bazaar — Betel  Nut — Produce — Pearls 
— Treasm-es  of  the  Deep — Scenery — Wesleyans  in  Ceylon — 
Baptist  Mission  —  Dr.  M'Vicars — Wolfendal — Missionary 
Meeting — Cotton — Lord  Torrington — Prison — Sir  Anthony 
Oliphant — "Haddington" — Voyage  to  Aden — Aden — Vol- 
canic Appearances  of  Aden — Population — SumaUs       .         .  -VJl 


fONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


EGYPT. 

Arabian  Gulf — Passage  of  the  Israelites — Sinai — The  Steamer — 
Suez — Fimeral  at  Suez — Vans  for  the  Desert — Crossing  the 
Desert — Reaching  Cairo — Emotions  on  reacliing  Cairo — 
Hotel  d'Orieut — Rev.  Mr.  Liecler — Ophthalmia — Tiukish 
Baths — Visit  to  the  P\Tamids — Cheops — Second  Pyramid 
— A  Night  in  a  Tomb — Sakhara— Memphis — Torah — Beza- 
teen — Coptic  Church — Greek  Church — English  Episcopal 
Service  —  Citadel — Anecdote  —  Old  Caii-o  —  Anecdote  — 
ilosques  —  General  Appearance  —  Preparations  to  Visit 
Palestine — Insurrection  at  Aleppo  — Eaiiy  Egj-pt  not  Idola- 
trous— Curiosities — Tetrawan — New  Palace — Heliopolis^ 
Obelisk — Balbeis — Camels — Wells  and  Women — Robbers 
— El  Ai-ish 409 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

PALESTINE. 

KhanJounes — Murder — Retaliation — Gaza — Quarantine — Laza- 
retto— Mosque — Ashdod — Ramlah — Hill  Country — Jerusa- 
lem— City  Walls — Mosque  of  Omar — Foimdations  of  the 
Temple — Valley  of  Jehoshaphat — Dr.  Gobat — Chiu-ch  of  the 
Holy  Sepulchre — Literary  Society — Pool  of  Siloam — Ancient 
Bridge — Moirnt  of  Olives — Gethsemane — Bethany — Solo- 
mon's Pools —  Hebron —  Pilgrims —  Machpelah —  Mamre — 
Bethlehem — Gilgal — Jericho — Jordan — Greek  Christians — 
Dead  Sea — Naby  Moyse — Cisterns  in  Jerusalem — Supplies 
of  Water — Mohammedanism — Leave  Jerusalem — Bethel — 
Anathoth — Shechem — Jacob's  Well — Ebal — Gerizim — Se- 
baste — Jenin — Esdraelon — Nazareth — Mount  Tabor — Lake 
of  Tiberias — City  of  Tiberias — Magdala — Mount  Hermon — 
Thorns  and  Thistles — Condition  of  Women — Baneas — SUk- 
worms — Druses — Damascus — Missionaries  at  Damascus — 
Mohammedanism — Romanism — Outbreak  at  Aleppo — Jews 
at  Damascus — Zebedane — Baalbec — Immense  Block — Diffi- 
CTilt  Travelling — Zachle — Malaka — Hail,  Snow,  lee — Beyrut 
— Alexandria — The  "Ripon" — Arrival  at  Southampton — 
Reach  Home — Directors — Papal  Aggression — Summing  up 
— Conclusion       .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .440 


CHAPTEK     I. 


ARRIVAL    AT    THE    CAPE — TABLE    BAY SENTIMENT    DURING    MY    VISIT 

POLITICAL     CREED ILLUSTRATIONS CONVICT     QUESTION MORAL 

FEELING    OF    THE  COLONY— GENERAL  OBJECTS    OF  MY  MISSION DR. 

PHILIP UNION  CHAPEL NOTICE  OF  THE  COLONY EXTENT,  LANDED 

PROPERTY — EXPORTS CAPE  TOWN SEAT  OF  GOVERNMENT POPU- 
LATION— CHRISTIAN  MINISTRY PRESS — PREPARATION  FOR  TRAVEL  • 

LING STARTING  FOR  THE  INTERIOR. 

Amidst  the  kindest  adieus  and  wishes,  I  left- home  in 
November,  1848,  and  embarked  at  Gravesend  for  Table 
Bay,  on  board  the  "  Lady  Flora,"  Capt.  Eagles.  A  little 
detained  against  our  will,  by  unfriendly  breezes  in  the 
channel,  we  did  not  lose  sight  of  the  land  we  loved,  till 
near  Christmas.  A  favourable  passage  brought  us,  in  the 
course  of  Februaiy,  to  the  termination  of  our  voyage.  We 
came  to  anchor  at  night,  at  some  little  distance  from  the 
town.  The  morning  usliered  in  the  magnificent  view  of 
Table  Mountain,  towering  in  undiminished  strength  and 
grandeur,  4000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean ;  and  there 
lay  scattered  before  us,  the  shipping,  outward  and  home- 
ward bound,  riding  in  the  Bay;  and  there  the  town  itself, 
spreading  out  along  the  margin  of  the  Bay,  and  rising  in 
the  back  ground  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 
'  This  was  not  my  first  visit  to  South  Africa.  I  had  been 
to  Cape  Town  twice  previously  :  once  during  my  mission 
to  Madagascar,  in  1830,  and  again  on  my  way  to  England, 
in  1H:3().  The  scene  from  the  deck  of  the  vessel,  wliich  1 
was  now  quitting,  was  thei'efore  not  new  to  me'.     But  it 


2  AliltlVAl.  AT  TIIK  TAPE. 

had  Idst  none  of  its  charms.  It  can  lose  none.  There  is 
a  bolihioss,  grandeur,  and  sublimity  about  the  Cape,  of 
which  the  voyager  never  becomes  weaiy,  and  eveiy  object 
is  on  a  large  scale.  Table  Mountain  is  lofty,  "  girded  with 
power," — the  range  of  mountain  of  which  it  is  a  goodly  por- 
tion, vast  and  extensive. — the  dense  rolling  white  cloud  on  its 
summit,  pouring  over  its  front,  and  dissolving  as  it  reaches 
a  more  genial  current  of  air,  awfully  grand, — the  Bay 
forming  a  noble  sweep, — and  at  times  the  ocean  itself 
rolling  in  with  most  magnificent  impetuosity.  All  these 
have  a  voice  ;  they  utter  forth  the  gi-eatness  of  the  Creator, 
and  his  goodness  in  fomiing  and  decorating  such  a  splen- 
did globe  for  the  habitation  of  man. 

I  was  soon  on  shore,  and  amidst  familiar  scenes  and 
friends.  Here  my  commission  commenced,  and  I  found 
ample  occupation  in  discharging  the  various  sen-ices  for 
which  I  had  gone  out  to  the  colony  as  a  deputation  from 
the  London  Missionary  Society. 

It  maybe  candid  to  state  at  once  the  aspect  under  which 
I  viewed  the  various  matters  that  came  under  my  obser- 
vation, and  the  prevailing  sentiment  which  I  carried  with 
me,  or  -sAdshed  to  cany  with  me,  in  all  my  engagements, 
and  throughout  all  my  tour. 

I  went  out,  not  to  visit  South  Africa  as  a  politician,  a 
diplomatist,  a  merchant,  a  hunter,  or  an  adventurer.  I 
went  out  as  the  representative  of  a  Missionaiy  Society, — 
prepared,  indeed,  to  hear  remarks  on  all  subjects,  and  from 
all  quarters;  anxious  to  see  all  that  might  be  deemed  of 
general  interest,  to  collect  information  from  all  authentic 
sources,  to  exercise  my  own  judgment  and  a  Briton's  lil)erty 
of  expressing  my  opinions ;  but  I  was  mainly  occupied  with 
the  great  interests  of  humanity  and  Christian  Missions.  I 
travelled  among  the  civilized  and  the  uncivilized — the 
learned  and  the  laide, — and  I  felt  everpvhere  confirmed  in 
the  sentiment,  in  which  I  am  persuaded  my  readers  heartily 
concur,  that  while  Christianity  is  essential  to  the  highest 
and  permanent  prosperitij  of  nations,  it  is  not  less  so  to  the 


POLITICAL  CREED.  3 

civilizing  process  and  gradual  elevation  of  the  Aboriginal 
Races,  and  to  the  safe  and  steady  advance  of  colonial  depen- 
dencies in  their  progress  towards  ultimate  greatness,  power, 
stability,  and  self-government. 

My  political  creed  is,  that  "  Pughteousness  exalteth  a 
nation,"  and  that  every  departure  from  rectitude  deterio- 
rates and  debases  a  community.  Christianity,  the  clearest 
and  latest  development  of  essential  and  immutable  right- 
eousness, enfoi'ces  on  every  man  "to  do  unto  others  as  he 
would  others  should  do  to  him ;"  a  safe  and  comprehen- 
sive maxim,  that  summons  into  action  the  first  and  deepest 
principles  of  human  nature,  and  guides  that  action  so  as 
to  subserve  the  universal  well-being  of  society.  The  in- 
stinctive love  of  our  own  welfare  is  constituted  the  rule  of 
our  intercourse  with  others  ;  and  the  only  restraint  on  our 
liberty,  is  the  innate  and  salutary  dread  of  suffering  evil 
ourselves ;  for  the  converse  of  the  maxim  is  as  true  as  the 
rule  itself — We  may  not  do  to  others  what  we  are  unwill- 
ing they  should  do  to  us.  When  governments  and  their 
subjects  become  thoroughly  iml)ued  with  this  practical 
Christianity,  nations  will  assuredly  realize  more  harmony 
and  prosperity  than  the  pen  of  history  has  yet  recorded, 
and  the  world  will  reap  a  richer  harvest  of  "  peace  on 
earth  and  good-will  among  men,"  than  pro})hets  have  fore  • 
told,  or  poets  sung. 

These  observations  appear  to  me  to  apj^ly  to  our  Colo- 
nies with  an  augmented  force.  If  in  the  matured  and 
consolidated  community,  Christianity  alone  constitutes  the 
healthful  and  conservativie  principle,  so  in  our  younger 
colonial  communities,  amidst  their  freshness,  boldness,  and 
comparative  inexperience,  the  controlling,  guiding,  elevat- 
ing influence  of  Christian  principle  is  so  much  tlie  more 
needed,  just  as,  in  the  season  of  the  buoyant  jiassions  of 
youth,  a  more  vigorous,  faithful,  and  guardian  watch  is 
required  than  in  the  already  sobered  and  well-regulated 
man  of  calm  and  meridian  age. 

Various  illustrations   of  these   remarks   fell   under  my 


i  MORAL  FEELING  OF  THE  COLONY. 

observation  at  the  time  of  my  arrival  in  the  colony  in  the 
spring  of  18-49.  In  some  cases,  it  Avas  the  treatment  of 
the  Colony  by  the  Home  Government  that  arrested  ni} 
notice  ;  in  others,  projected  measures  of  the  local  Govern- 
ment ;  and  in  others  the  treatment  of  the  border  tribes  by 
the  Gove]'nor  as  High  Commissioner.  There  seemed  to  m€ 
a  stretch  of  authority,  an  arbitrary  exercise  of  power,  in- 
compatible with  the  golden  rule  of  equity, — a  want  of  lofty, 
noble,  and  generous  principle. 

There  were  several  grave  questions  afloat  at  that  time : 
the  obtaining  a  "  Constitution"  from  the  mother  countiy, 
that  the  colony  might  be  fairly  self-governed ;  another  was, 
a  "  Vagi-ancy  law ;  "  but  the  great  excitement  that  prevailed 
re.spected  the  admission  of  convicts  from  Great  Britain, 
and  the  dread  of  its  being  a  plan  of  the  Imperial  Govern- 
ment to  convert  the  colony  into  a  jjenal  settlement. 

The  strong  moral  and  rehgious  feeling  of  the  colonists, 
there  can  be  no  doubt,  was  the  means  of  saving  it  from  the 
deterioration  or  destruction  that  would  else  have  been 
inevitable.  The  proposed  measure  was  strongly  resisted, 
if  not  by  "  vi  et  armis,''  yet  by  all  constitutional  measures, 
almost  to  the  veiy  "edge  of  legality."  The  most  judicious 
and  right-hearted  men  in  the  colony  felt  that  they  had 
strong  reasons  for  opposing  the  measure.  They  thought 
that  the  extensive  and  ever-widening  surface  of  the  colony, 
with  a  sparse  population — the  comparative  distance  of  the 
seats  of  magistracy  from  one  anothei-,  and  the  consequent 
facility  of  escape  to  evil-doors — the  easily  excitable  mate- 
rials of  the  i^opulation  on  the  colonial  borders,  and  the 
immense  mischief  that  a  few  ill-disposed,  but  talented 
"  ticket-of-leave"  men  might  effect,  were  ample  gi-ounds  of 
objection  to  the  measui-e.  The  resistance  of  the  colonists 
did  not  originate  in  any  spirit  of  vexatious  opposition  to 
the  Home  Government — for  the  colony  is  most  loyal — nor 
in  any  unfilial  desire  to  embarrass  the  mother  countiy  in 
the  disposal  of  its  convicts  ;  nor  had  it  any  mere  party  pur- 
pose to  serve.     It  was  the  honest  moral  feeling  of  the 


GENERAL  OBJECTS  OF  MY  MISSION.  5 

colony  that  was  aroused.  The  dread  of  an  impending 
danger,  tlie  extent  of  whicli  the  colonists  thought  could 
not  be  overrated,  created  the  invincible  resolution  to  avert 
an  evil  of  such  portentous  magnitude,  before  it  actually 
bm'st  on  the  colony.  Great  honour  is  due  to  the  public 
press  of  the  colony  for  the  lofty  moral  tone  which  it 
assumed  on  the  occasion,  and  which  at  once  guided  and 
expressed  the  public  sentiment.  That  sentiment  obtained 
ultimately  an  honourable  issue.  The  Government  of  Great 
Britain  yielded  to  the  clearly  expressed  voice  of  the  colony, 
as  a  wise  government  will  not  fail  to  do,  when  that  senti- 
ment commends  itself,  as  it  did  in  this  case,  to  the  im- 
partial consciences  of  men  as  the  expression  of  truth  and 
equity,  humanity  and  sound  policy. 

It  may  not  be  unsuitable  to  introduce  here  a  brief  extract 
from  the  Letter  of  Instructions  with  which  I  was  furnished 
by  the  Directors  of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  in 
relation  to  my  present  tour : — "  The  general  objects  of  your 
mission  are  expressed  in  the  following  '  Resolution  of  the 
Board,'  on  Avhich  your  appointment  has  been  founded, 
namely : — 

"  To  devise  means  for  rendering  Missions  in  the  Cape 
Colony  more  efficient — to  inquire  into  the  best  means  of 
economising  the  administration  of  the  Society's  funds  in 
their  support — to  aid  in  carrying  into  execution  any  in- 
structions the  Board  may  form  regarding  new  arrange- 
ments of  its  Missions  there — and  to  report  on  the  whole 
question  of  the  appointment  of  a  successor  to  Dr.  Philip." 

From  this  extract  it  will  immediately  appear  that  one  of 
my  earliest  steps  on  reaching  the  colony  would  be,  to  com- 
municate freely  with  Dr.  Philip  himself.  And  this,  I  am 
thankful  to  say,  I  had  the  privilege  of  doing.  I  had  long 
known  and  always  revered  that  eminent  man.  Wliile  yet 
myself  a  student  for  the  ministry,  thirty-five  years  ago,  T 
had  enjoyed  his  friendship,  and  tlie  lapse  of  years  had  but 
enlarged  and  confirmed  my  estimate  of  his  worth.  The 
more  I  came  to  undei'stand  of  Christian  Missions,  the  more 


0  1>H.  riULIP — UNION  CHAPEL. 

sound  and  comprehensive  appeared  to  me  the  views  of  Dr. 
Philip.  He  has  heen  a  man  of  shrewd  and  philosophic 
observation,  in  all  that  pertains  to  the  history  and  ad- 
vancement of  Christianity  in  the  world.  No  man  better 
imderstands  the  theoiy  of  Missions.  He  has  brought  to 
that  subject  a  large  amount  of  previous  reading  and  deep 
thinking.  His  correspondence  on  that  subject  has  been 
of  immense  value.  ^Mlen  he  shall  have  finished  his  course 
and  entei'ed  his  rest,  I  fear  no  "  autobiography"  will  be  found 
to  fill  up  a  portion  of  the  vacuum.  But  I  believe  materials 
will  exist,  and  some  one  competent  to  use  them  aright  will 
be  found,  that  our  invaluable  conductor  of  South  African 
Missions,  though  dead,  may  yet  speak. 

The  venerable  Doctor  Philip  I  found  greatly  enfeebled 
in  health,  but  retaining  an  undiminished  interest  in  all 
that  pertains  to  the  kingdom  of  God  among  men.  In- 
capable of  bearing  any  longer  the  burden  and  responsibi- 
lities of  office,  as  Superintendent  of  the  Society's  Missions 
in  South  Africa,  he  had,  for  a  long  time,  urged  on  the 
Directors  to  make  such  arrangements  as  might  relieve  him, 
and  yet  secure  the  welfare  of  the  Missions.  That  arrange- 
ment, I  indulge  the  hope,  has  been  satisfactorily  effected. 
Dr.  Philip  has  retired  to  Hankey,  near  Port  Elizabeth, 
where,  in  the  bosom  of  the  sui'viving  members  of  his 
family,  he  may  pass,  amidst  the  kindest  symiiathies  and 
the  scenes  of  usefulness  in  which  he  still  loves  to  associate, 
the  evening  of  his  valuable  life, — full  of  faith,  and  fen'ent 
in  prayer,  as  in  his  earliest  days,  and  often  illustrating  the 
sentiment  of  Herbert,  of  which  he  frequently  reminded  me 
when  conversing  with  him — 

The  soul's  dark  cottage,  battered  and  decayed, 

Lets  in  new  light  through  cliinks  that  time  has  made. 

The  pulpit  of  Union  Chapel,  Cape  Town,  had  been  for 
some  time  vacant.  The  congregation  was  anxious  to 
obtain  a  minister,  \\liile  desirous  that  he  should  devote 
as  much  of  his  time  and  energies  to  the  sei'vice  of  the 


NOTICE  OF  THE  COLO>fT. 


Missionary  Society  as  might  be  compatible  with  the  faith- 
ful discharge  of  his  pastoral  duties,  they  were  not  willing 
to  regard  the  latter  simply  as  an  appendage  to  the  office  of 
an  agent  or  superintendent  of  the  Society's  Missions.  It 
occurred,  during  my  visit,  that  the  Rev.  W.  Thompson,  of 
the  Society's  Missions  in  India,  touched  at  the  Cape  on  his 
way  to  England.  His  temporary  services  were  acceptable  in 
Union  Chapel, — he  was  warmly  pressed  to  remain  for  a 
time,  and  ultimately  received  a  cordial  invitation  to  the  pas- 
torship. On  visiting  England  and  consulting  his  friends, 
Mr.  Thompson  saw  it  his  duty  to  accept  the  invitation, 
combined  with  an  appointment,  on  the  part  of  the  Directors 
of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  to  act  as  their  agent. 
Mr.  Thompson  returned  to  Cape  Town  in  the  summer  of 
1850,  and  has  entered  on  his  important  sphere  of  service 
under  auspicious  circumstances,  which,  with  God's  bless- 
ing, promise  a  successful  ministry,  an  efficient  agency,  and 
a  happy  combination  of  both. 

A  condensed  notice  here  of  the  colony  generally,  and  of 
Cape  Town  itself,  may  not  be  altogether  unsuitable,  nor, 
to  some  of  my  readers,  unacce^Dtable. 

The  colony  was  founded  by  the  Dutch  about  two  centu- 
ries ago.  The  Netherland  Government  sent  thither  about 
two  hundred  men  and  women  from  Amsterdam.  Thirty- 
five  years  afterwards,  a  valuable  accession  was  made  to  the 
infant  colony  by  the  settlement  of  a  number  of  industrious 
men,  who  left  their  home  on  the  Revocation  of  the  Edict 
of  Nantes,  and  who  introduced  to  the  Cape  the  culture  of 
the  vine.  The  English  captured  the  colony  in  1795.  By 
the  Treaty  of  Amiens  it  was  restored  to  the  Dutch,  but  was 
again  taken  by  the  English,  in  1800,  and  finally  ceded  to 
them  by  the  king  of  the  Netherlands  in  1815. 

The  colony  extends  about  seven  hundred  miles  from 
west  to  east,  and,  on  an  average,  of  about  two  hundred  miles 
from  north  to  south,  and  thus  contains  upwaixls  of  140,000 
square  miles.  Su})posing  all  the  large  extent  of  territory 
to  be  ultimately  added  to  the  colony,  over  which  authority 


has  been  claimed  within  the  last  four  years,  there  would  be 
so  immense  an  addition  made  to  the  colony,  that  "  our 
South  African  Empire  would  cover,  say  280,000  square 
miles,  an  area  equal  to  the  whole  of  the  Austrian  Empire 
including  Lombardy  and  adding  Piedmont  to  it.">-  The 
frontier  line  of  this  immense  empire  cannot  be  less  than 
1000  miles,  and  its  line  of  coast  probably  about  1300,  from 
tlie  Gariep  or  Orange  River  on  the  west,  to  the  Kei  on  the 
east.  The  estimated  population  of  the  140,000  square 
miles  first  mentioned,  is  175,000,  being  one  and  a  quarter 
to  a  square  mile.  The  colony  is  di\-ided  into  the  two  pro- 
vinces of  Eastern  and  Western  ;  the  principal  towns  of 
which  are  respectively  Graham's  To^vll  and  Cape  Town. 

The  value  of  the  landed  property  throughout  the  Colony 
as  rated  for  the  purposes  of  the  Road  Improvement  Ordi- 
nances, is, — 

For  the  Western  Province  £4,000,806 

For  the  Eastern         „  1,665,754 


£5,666,560 


Wool  is  largely  cultivated  and  exported.  Within  the 
last  few  years,  the  increase  of  this  produce  has  been  most 
satisfactory,  to  the  gi'ower  and  the  exporter. 

The  following  brief  Table  will  illustrate  this  increase  : — 

Exported  from 


Cape  To'WTi 

Port  Elizabeth. 

Total. 

1835   . 

.   .    J  36,0-20  lbs.  . 

.   .   79,848  lbs. 

.   .   215,868  lbs. 

1840  . 

.  .  509,597  „ 

.    401,521  „ 

.  911,118  „ 

1845   . 

.    1,109,544  „ 

.    2,085,064  „ 

3,194,602  „ 

1848  . 

.    1,590,752  „ 

.    2,079,968  „ 

.  3,670,920  „ 

Some  idea  of  the  trade  and  navigation  of  the  colony  may 
be  formed  by  the  following  Table.     During  the  year  1 848  : — 

*  See  the  masterly  speech  of  Sir  "\Vm.  Molesworth.    Debate  in  the 
House  of  Commons,  10th  April,  1851. 


CAPE  TOWN.  9 

Vessels   Tonnage.    Out-      Customs  Imports.        Exports. 

inward.      Total.     Avards.    received.  Value.  Value. 

r<«c+-i515       214,979       506       £103,960       £1,152,018       £513,997 

^?^^^"    291  299 

wise.   J 

806  805 

• 
Cape  Town,  originally  laid  out  by  the  early  Dutch  colo- 
nists, and  subsequently  improved  by  the  English,  has  during 
.he  last  few  yeai's  greatly  progressed.  The  erection  of 
new  buildings,  the  covering  in  the  water-courses,  the  con- 
structing of  an  excellent  causeway,  the  introduction  of  gas, 
and  the  scientific  laying  out  of  the  Botanic  Gardens,  speak 
much  for  the  honour  of  the  municij)ality,  and  the  enter- 
prise of  individuals.  There  is  also  the  promise  of  still 
further  improvement.  There  is  a  large  amount  of  public 
spirit  and  intelligence  among  the  inhabitants.  If  the  colony 
can  only  be  saved  from  the  check  and  disturbance,  the 
irritation  and  losses  occasioned  by  wai's  on  the  frontiers, 
its  cajDital  towns  will  make  steady  advances  in  everything 
that  is  valuable  and  substantial.  Cape  Town  must  con- 
tinue to  be  the  metropolis  of  the  colony,  though  in  some 
respects  inconveniently  distant  from  the  frontier ;  but  so 
are  Paris  in  France,  and  London  in  England.  Table  Bay 
requires  a  large  outlay  to  make  it  all  that  merchants,  ship- 
owners, and  insurance  offices  desiderate ;  but  that  outlay 
can  be  made,  and  every  advantage  gained.  Jetties  and 
breakwaters  are  occupying  the  attention  of  scientific  men, 
of  merchants,  and  the  municipality  at  Cape  Town.  The 
distance  to  Algoa  Bay,  and  Port  East  London,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Buffalo,  can  be  accomplished  by  steamers  in 
four  or  five  days,  and  it  is  only  in  that  neighbourhood,  the 
vicinity  of  Kaffirland,  that  war  is  likely  to  occur.  Graham's 
Town  is  far  too  much  out  of  the  way,  in  all  respects,  to 
be  the  metropolis  of  the  colony  and  seat  of  government. 
Shipping  must  come  to  Table  Bay.  Port  Elizabeth,  one 
hundred  miles  from  Graham's  Town,  has  no  harbour. 
Algoa  Bay,  on  the  margin  of  which  the  town  of  Port  Eliza- 
beth stands,  is  simply  a  roadstead,  and  a  very  uncomfortable 


10  SEAT  01''  GOVERNMENT roi'ULATION. 

one ;  natui-e  has  not  given  it  a  harbour,  and  science  cannot 
make  one,  tliough  it  may  do  mnch  to  obviate  its  disadvan- 
tages. The  principal  advantage  of  removing  the  seat  of 
government  to  Graham's  Town  would  be,  that  the  Gover- 
nor woiUd  then  be  rather  more  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
our  troublesome  acquaintances  the  Kaffirs,  and  ready  to 
repress  any  sudden  outbreak  before  it  ripened  into  a  war. 
But  it  would  seem  hardly  worth  while  to  distm-b  and  dis- 
satisty  the  whole  colony  merely  for  that  atom  of  advantage. 
A  commander-in-chief  of  the  forces  might  reside  in  the 
vicinity  of  an  unsettled  border,  and  the  seat  of  government 
remain  Avhere  it  is.  Besides,  it  may  be  hoped  these  border 
wars  will  termmate.  The  present,  it  is  predicted  by  some, 
will  be  the  last :  most  pi'obably  it  will  be,  if  the  Imperial 
Government  will  do  justice  in  its  settlement  of  questions 
with  the  border  tribes,  and  if  the  colony  is  allowed  to  manage 
its  own  affairs,  by  having  a  liberal  constitution  granted, 
such  as  there  is  reason  to  think  will  not  be  much  longer 
withheld,  and  certainly  cannot,  with  safety. 

Cape  Town,  according  to  the  last  census  of  1842,  contains 
a  {copulation  of  21,840  ;  viz. — 

Males,      10,612.  White,         9,359. 

Females,  11,228.  Coloured,  12,481; 

engaged  in  various  occujiations,  7319. 

With  regard  to  religious  profession,  there  were  returned 

as  Christian 14,767 

Mohammedan 6,435 

Jews 170 

Uncertain  and  heathen 621 

Showing  about  two-thirds  of  the  population  professedly 
Christian  and  nearly  one-third  Mohammedan. 

For  the  Christian  portion  of  the  population  a  very  con- 
siderable amount  of  Christian  instruction  is  provided.  Cape 
Town  is  eminently  favoured  with  the  institutions  of  reli 
gion.     For  the  Mohammedan  population  not  much  Chris- 


CHRISTIAN  MINISTRY.  11 

tian  effort  is  made  of  any  direct  kind :  some  of  their  children 
attend  the  daily  schools  of  Cape  Town,  where,  in  common 
with  other  scholars,  they  receive  instruction  in  Christian 
truth ;  but  their  parents  usually  remove  them  at  an  early 
age,  partly,  it  may  be,  because  they  require  their  services 
at  home,  and  partly  also  to  prevent  the  risk  of  their  minds 
becoming  too  much  imbued  with  the  truths  of  our  religion. 
The  general  designation  of  the  Mohammedan  population 
in  the  colony  is  "  Malay;"  probably  because  some  of  them, 
or  their  ancestors,  came  originally  from  the  islands  of  the 
Malayan  Archipelago.  It  is  now  applied  indiscriminately 
to  all  who  attend  the  services  of  the  Mohammedan  priests, 
irrespectively  of  their  geographical  origin. 

For  the  Christian  population  of  Cape  Town  there  is  the 
following  provision  of  i:)laces  of  worshi})  and  ministers  ;  viz.: 

Two  of  the  Dutch  Eeformed  Church,  under  the  ministry 

of  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Faure,  Spyker,  and  Hepis. 
The    Evangelical  Lutheran  Church,  Rev.   J.  M.  K.  van 

Staveren. 
St.  Stephen's  Church  (a   separation  originally  from  the 

Lutheran  Church),  Ministers,  Rev.  Dr.  Adamson,  and 

G.  W.  Stegman. 
Two  English  Episcopal    Churches.     The  Rt.  Rev.  Dr. 

Gray,  Lord    Bishop  of  the   diocese,  and  Rev.  W.  A. 

Newman,  of  St.  George's.   Rev.  R.  G.  Lamb,  of  Trinity 

Church. 
St.  Andrew's  Church,  Church  of  Scotland,  Rev.  G.  Mor- 
gan. 
Two  Congregational  Churches  :  Union  Chapel,  Rev.  W. 

Thompson.     Rev.  M.  Vogelgczang,  at  present  in  hired 

rooms. 
Two  Wesleyan  Chapels. 
South  African  Missionary  Society,  Long  Street  Chajiel; 

Rev.  J.  H.  Beck. 
Free  Church  of  Scotland,  Rev.  W.  Gorrie. 
Roman  Catholic  Chapel,  and  Bishop. 


12  THE  PRESS. 

Thoro  are  numerous  day  and  infant  schools,  a  South 
African  College,  a  Puhlic  Library  of  30,000  volumes,  Lite- 
rary and  Scientific  Listitution,  Tract  and  Book  Society, 
Society  for  Promoting  Christian  luiowledge,  Oii)han  House, 
"Widow's  Fund,  Provident  Fund,  Benevolent  Society,  and 
an  ample  array  of  local  institutions,  indicative  of  mercan- 
tile prosperity,  and  the  guarantee  of  its  increase,  such 
as  Banks,  Joint  Stock  Companies,  Gas  Light,  Fire  and 
Life,  Assurance  and  Trust  Companies,  Marine  Assurance 
Companies,  Steam  Company,  &c.  &c. 

The  Press  also  in  Cape  Towai  maintains  a  high  and  in- 
fluential position.  The  "Commercial  Advertiser"  has  long 
sustained  a  lofty  chai^acter  for  talent,  intelligence,  truthful- 
ness, and  liberality.  It  has  been  the  advocate  of  all  en- 
lightened measures  in  the  internal  management  of  the 
colony,  and  of  a  just  and  humane  policy  towards  the  border 
tribes.  The  "  Cape  Town  Mail,"  and  the  "  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  Observer,"  are  rendering  eminent  service  by  the 
diffusion  of  sound  and  liberal  sentiments,  and  the  impar- 
tial discussion  of  great  and  vital  principles.  "  The  Zuid 
Afrikaan,"  and  "Het  Volksblad,"  are  popular  organs  Avith 
their  respective  supporters.  Government  has  its  "Gazette," 
and  its  friends  their  own  "IMonitor;"  the  merchants  have 
their  "  Shipping  and  Mercantile  Gazette  ;"  the  Orange  River 
Settlement,  Graham's  To^ni.  Port  Elizabeth,  and  Natal, ' 
have  their  own  periodicals,  of  greater  or  less  value,  but  all 
indicating  that  men  are  awake  and  jjrepared  to  think  and 
act  for  themselves  on  the  great  platform  of  free  and  intel- 
ligent society. 

During  the  early  part  of  my  stay  in  Cape  Town,  I  em- 
braced an  opportunity  of  waiting  on  his  Excellency  the 
Governor,  Sir  Harry  Smith,  to  whom  I  was  introduced  by 
Dr.  Philip.  I  explained  to  him  the  objects  of  my  visit  to 
the  Colony,  and  received  from  hiqi  the  assurance  of  his 
interest  in  the  Missionary  enterprise,  and  his  readiness  to 
afford  me  any  facilities  in  his  power  ;  and  I  found  the 
same  courtesy  and  offers  of  service  on  the  part   of  the 


PEEPARATION  FOR  TRAVELLING.  13 

Honourable  INIr.  Montague,  Colonial  Secretary.  And  here 
I  may  be  allowed  to  say  that,  strongly  as  I  think  civilians 
ai'e  to  be  preferred  as  governors  of  most  of  our  colonies, 
such  as  Sir  Alexander  Johnston,  of  Ceylon ;  Sir  Stamford 
Eaflfles,  of  Sumatra  ;  and  Lord  William  Bentinck,  of  India, 
there  is  yet  much  in  the  hero  of  Aliwal,  now  Governor  of 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  to  admire.  He  is  studiously 
anxious  to  promote  the  welfare  of  the  Colony ;  he  is  un- 
wearied in  his  application  to  business;  and  many  of  his 
plans  are  wise,  sound,  and  beneficial.  Of  his  decision, 
promptness,  and  bravery,  there  can  be  no  question.  But 
his  decision  may  be  at  the  expense  of  accuracy  and  equity, 
his  i^romptness  may  comiiromise  his  discretion,  and  his 
bravery  may  be  without  magnanimity.  He  may  fondly 
lean  on  the  lyrestige  of  his  own  name,  and  reject  wholesome 
suggestions  ;  and  yet  be  the  victim  of  adulation  and  the 
mere  organ  of  a  party.  He  may  give  himself  credit  for 
being  unbiased,  and  yet  succumb  to  ungenerous  prejudices. 
The  truth  is,  Sir  Harry  Smith  has  far  too  much  on  his 
hands  ;  too  much  simply  as  Governor,  and  esi^eeially  with- 
out a  Council,  and  immensely  too  much  also  as  High  Com- 
missioner for  the  Affairs  of  the  Border  Tribes.  The  relief 
of  his  Excellency,  the  welfare  of  the  Colonists,  the  peace 
of  the  Border  Territoi-y,  and  the  honour  of  the  Imperial 
Government,  are  all  bound  up  in  the  self-government  of 
the  Colony.  The  measures  of  his  Excellency  in  relation 
to  the  "Border  Tribes,"  will  fall  under  observation  in  the 
subsequent  part  of  this  volume. 

Having  offered  this  brief  sketch  of  the  colony  and  of 
Cape  Town,  I  commence  my  Tour.  It  need  scarcely  be 
remarked,  that  English  travelling  and  colonial  travelling 
are  two  very  different  things ;  they  represent  the  two 
opposite  ideas  of  swiftness  and  slowness — of  all  convenient 
and  inviting  an-angements  made /or  you,  and  of  all  neces 
sary  yet  complex  arrangements  you  make  for  yourself. 
But  man  adapts  himself  with  marvellous  facility  to  all 
climates  and   all   circumstances,   and    nature   everywhere 


14  SIR  IIARKY  SMITH. 

provides  him  with  an  ample  fund  of  materials  to  gratify 
and  instruct  him.  I  found  I  must  now  prepare  myself  in 
soher  earnest,  and  with  all  the  patience  which  familiarity 
with  railway  speed  had  left  me,  for  the  rather  tedious 
method  of  travelling  two  and  a-half  miles  or  three  miles 
an  hour,  in  a  huge  wagon,  drawn  by  some  ten  or  twelve 
stout  oxen.  The  usual  cost  of  a  well-made  wagon,  fitted 
up  for  the  journey,  and  with  all  the  needful  gear,  is  about 
£100.  The  oxen  requisite  cost  about  half  that  sum.  At 
the  end  of  the  journey  the  wagon  generally  sells  for  about 
half  its  cost,  or  if  not  much  damaged,  two-thirds.  The 
oxen  are  by  that  time  of  diminished  bulk  and  value.  They 
are  changed  into  lean  kine,  and  require  a  vacation  to  graze 
and  ruminate.  The  traveller  must  procure  a  driver  and 
leader.  In  these  sendees  the  Hottentots  are  unequalled. 
A  good  attendant  who  can  cook,  "  and  make  himself  gene- 
rally useful,"  is  essential  to  the  traveller's  well-being.  An 
adequate  supply  of  provisions  must  be  laid  in  for  the 
journey.  Warm  clothing  for  the  day,  and  some  warm 
blankets  for  night,  will  be  found  welcome  companions  on 
the  road.  The  nearer  the  traveller  approximates  to  the 
homoeopathic  use  of  wines,  the  smaller  the  chance  of 
breakage  and  vexation.  Two  good  casks  of  fresh  water 
suspended  under  the  wagon,  and  supplied  from  time  to 
time  from  "  Afric's  sunny  fountains,"  without  their  golden 
sands,  w'ill  enable  him  to  enjoy  the  luxuiy  of  a  refreshing 
cup  of  bohea  or  coffee,  on  the  shortest  notice.  Bread, 
meat,  and  poultiy,  can  usually  be  obtained  on  the  road, 
till  the  traveller  gets  beyond  the  boundaries  of  what  we 
term  civilized  life.  For  dainties  and  luxuries,  he  had 
better  wait — till  he  can  procure  them  ;  or  if  veiy  anxious 
for  them,  he  had  better — not  undertake  the  journey. 

My  arrangements  being  completed,  I  set  out  from  Cape 
Town  in  May,  1849,  with  the  design  of  A-isiting,  in  the 
first  instance,  all  our  Missionary  stations  and  institutions 
within  the  colony.  For  a  fortnight  after  leaving  Cape  Town 
I  was  not  a  solitary  traveller;  my  friend,  the  Eev.  E.  Miller, 


STARTING  FOR  THE  INTERIOR.  15 

of  the  Free  Scotch  Church,  Cape  Town,  and  now  at  Chin- 
surah,  accompanied  me  as  far  as  Swellendam  and  George, 
Zuurbrak  and  Pacaltsdorp. 

My  wagon  preceded  me  to  Hottentot's  Holland  Kloof. 
The  next  day  Mr.  Miller  and  myself  followed  in  a  hired 
horse  vehicle,  and  overtook  the  four-wheeled  conveyance 
soon  after  sunset.  This  plan  of  despatching  the  wagon  first, 
allows  the  traveller  a  little  time  to  breathe,  to  look  round 
him,  to  complete  sundry  minor  arrangements,  which  there 
are  sure  to  be  ;  then  to  shake  hands  with  his  friends,  and 
"start  for  the  interior." 


CHAPTER    11. 


SWELLENDAM,    DR.     ROBERTSOX  —  DUTCH      EMIGRANT     BOERS  ZUUR- 

BRAK,     VAGRANCY       LAW MAGISTRATE'S     REPORT MISSIONARY 

REMARKS    ON    SAID  REPORT INDUSTRY    OF   THE    PEOPLE DEBTS 

D.  MOODIE,  ESa. CONTINUANCE    OR  ABANDONMENT   OF  MISSIONARY 

INSTITUTIONS? OPINION  OF  DR.  PHILIP ROUTE  TO  PACALTSDORP 

INSTITUTION  THERE PUBLIC  MEETING GEORGE CRADOCK  PASS 

GATE     KAMPHOOR HORSE     CAR     AND     NATIVE    DRIVING DYSSELS- 

DORP PUBLIC    MEETING OUDSHORN MINERAL  SPRINGS LABOUR 

QUESTION CANGO  CAVERNS AVONTUUR,   MR.  HOOD ANECDOTE  OF 

A  KAFFIR. 

On  lea^'ing  Cape  Town,  my  route  was  almost  due  east 
along  the  colony.  I  passed  through  the  district  of  Stel- 
lenbosch,  and  observed  with  much  gratification  some  of 
the  admirable  hnprovemeuts  lately  made  in  the  colonial 
roads  there,  under  the  able  direction  of  the  lamented  and 
talented  Colonel  Mitchel,  Sui-s-ey or- General,  especially  at 
Sir  Lo\vry"s  Pass,  in  this  district,  and  at  Houw  Hoek,  in 
the  Swellendam  district.  I  passed,  at  a  httle  distance,  the 
village  of  Caledon,  with  its  chalybeate  spring  (heat  92  deg.), 
said  to  be  so  useful  in  cases  of  chronic  rheumatism ;  and  I 
saw,  at  no  great  distance,  the  Moravian  establishment  of 
Genadenthal ;  but  which,  as  I  had  aiTanged  to  be  at  Zum'- 
brak  on  the  following  Sunday,  I  had  not  the  opportunity  of 
visiting  on  this  occasion.  I  had  visited  that  institution 
some  years  previously.  Its  histoiy  and  value  are  before 
the  public. 


SWELLENDAM.  IT 

Swellendam  is  a  large  district,  and  has  extensive  flocks  of 
fine-Avoolled  sheep.  There  is  also  a  superior  breed  of 
horses.  Some  enterprising  farmers  have  of  late  years  paid 
much  attention  to  these  sources  of  wealth.  The  soil  yields 
abundance  of  grain,  and  various  fruits,  which  are  dried  and 
sold  in  the  colonial  markets.  Wine  and  brandy  are  also 
made ;  and  among  the  products  of  the  farms  must  be 
added,  tallow,  butter,  soap,  and  aloes. 

There  is  not  much  to  attract  the  notice  of  the  traveller 
on  the  road  through  the  district  to  the  town  of  Swellendam. 
In  geology,  a  large  portion  of  the  country  consists  of  hard 
coarse  slate  and  sandstone,  belonging,  I  presume,  to  the 
Silurian  formation ;  then  some  portion  of  old  red  sand- 
stone, and  above  that  hard  ironstone,  quartzose  rock, 
blocks  of  granite  and  sandstone.  The  rainy  season  had 
■  not  yet  commenced  when  I  was  there ;  a  few  spring  leaves 
of  gladioluses  and  other  bulbous  flowers,  were  diligently 
pushing  their  way  through  the  soil.  Trees  were  very 
scarce ;  human  beings  more  so  ;  farms  seemed  few,  and 
with  very  limited  signs  of  wealth  or  comfort.  Of  birds 
and  wild  animals  we  saw  none  :  all  was  still  life,  with  a 
fine  clear  atmosphere,  sj^lendid  weather,  and  magnificent 
nights;  a  stony  path  under  our  feet,  and  "the  milky  way" 
above  us,  full  of  glory ;  "  Scorpio,"  quietly  stretching  out 
at  full  length  before  us,  and  the  "  southern  cross"  far  up 
in  the  heavens, — a  sign,  as  it  seemed,  that  the  cross  of 
redemption  shall  ultimately  be  ascendant  everywhere,  and 
bright  over  every  dark  spot  of  our  earth. 

The  town  of  Swellendam  is  pleasantly  situated  in  a  fer- 
tile valley.  The  climate  is  salubrious,  but  the  atmosphere 
is  rather  humid :  its  heat  in  summer,  about  80  deg.  It 
contains  some  good  substantial  family  residences,  in  part 
after  the  old  Dutch  style,  and  in  part  after  a  modernized 
English  fashion.  There  is  a  good  church,  a  parsonage,  a 
town  hall,  and  a  gaol,  besides  sundry  other  pnl)lic  build- 
ings. I  had  an  agreeable  interview  here  with  J  >r.  Uolici'tson, 
minister  of  the  Dutch  Keformed  Cliurrh.     Jlc  hud  lately 


18  DUTCH    EMIGRANTS. 

been  on  a  visit  to  the  emigrant  Dutch  Boers,  far  in  the 
interior,  in  and  beyond  the  Orange  Eiver  sovereignty, 
administering  to  them  the  ordinances  of  reUgion.  It  ap- 
peared to  me  that  much  more  was  wanted  to  promote  the 
reh-nous  wehare  of  those  numerous  emigrants  than  these 
occasional  visits  and  periodical  administrations  of  Bap- 
tism and  the  Lord's  Supper. 

The  community  of  the  Dutch  Pieformed  Church  of  the 
colony  is  large,  respectable,  and  wealthy.  Perhaps  it  may 
be  rather  languid,  and,  like  most  establishments,  some- 
what Tuiwieldy  and  difficult  to  move ;  but  it  could  not 
undertake  a  nobler  mission  than  that  of  suppljdng  their 
emigrant  brethren  with  pastors,  evangelists,  and  teachers, 
by  whom  I  doubt  not  they  would  be  well  received  (espe- 
cially if  of  Dutch  extraction),  and  by  whom  they  would  be 
in  part  cheerfully  sustained. 

The  number  of  the  emigrants  is  not  exactly  knovai.  It 
cannot,  however,  comprise  a  community  of  less  than  twenty 
to  twenty-five  thousand  persons.  Their  difficulties  and 
suiferings  have  been  immensely  gi'eat ;  and  whatever  differ- 
ences of  oi;)inion  may  prevail  as  to  their  political  relation 
to  the  colony,  or  their  conduct  towards  the  colony,  no 
Christian  mind  can  hesitate  to  desire  for  them, — just  as 
many  among  them  desire  it  for  themselves, — an  ample 
supply  of  spiritual  instruction,  without  which  they  and 
their  families  must  retrograde  in  everything  pertaining  to 
vital  and  practical  religion  ;  when,  instead  of  being  bless- 
ings to  the  heathen  round  about  them,  they  would  make 
both  the  name  of  Christian  and  of  white  man  to  be  utterly 
abhorred. 

Our  Missionaiy  Institution  at  Zuurbraak  is  about  twelve 
miles  from  Swellendam.  For  its  early  histoiy  I  refer  to 
the  works  of  Rev.  J.  Campbell  and  Dr.  Philip.  Our  vene- 
rable and  eminently  useful  Missionary  there,  Eev.  D. 
Helm,  had  lately  entered  into  his  rest.  He  was  a  man  of 
eminent  piety,  much  given  to  prayer,  greatly  honoured  by 
all  who  knew  him,  and  greatly  prospered  in  his  labour. 


ZUUBBKAAK  INSTITUTION.  19 

His  eldest  son  succeeds  him  in  the  office  of  Missionary 
and  Superintendent  of  the  Institution,  and  a  younger  son 
in  the  office  of  Schoohnaster — both  of  them  devoted  to  the 
important  work  they  have  undertaken.  Instead  of  the 
fathers  come  up  the  children.  The  village,  although  not 
to  be  compared  M^ith  many  of  our  English  villages  in 
romantic  beauty,  taste,  and  elegance,  is  not  without  its 
charms,  and  especially  to  a  traveller  who  is  willing  to 
compare,  as  justice  requires  he  should,  existing  things, 
not  merely  with  the  highest  forms  of  civilization  in  com- 
munities of  long  standing  and  rich  advantages,  but  with 
the  former  state  of  things,  in  which  degi*adation,  neglect, 
contempt,  and  insult,  were  the  lot  of  the  peoi^le,  and  out  of 
which  they  had  to  emerge  amidst  many  difficulties.  It  is 
something  to  have  changed  the  old  kraal  into  a  decent 
village — the  old  kaross  into  substantial  European  clothing 
— idleness  into  industry,  ignorance  into  intelligence,  self- 
ishness into  benevolence,  and  heathenism  into  Christianity. 

My  impressions  on  entering  the  village  of  Zuurbraak, 
and  passing  through  a  portion  of  it  to  the  Mission  pre- 
mises, were  on  the  whole  j^leasing,  and  yet  somewhat 
sombre.  There  are  some  signs  of  improvement.  Some 
houses  are  rebuilding,  but  many  huts  yet  remain.  There 
are  gardens,  but  they  want  enclosures.  There  is  not  all 
one  wishes  to  see,  as  proof  that  so  much  has  been  done 
for  the  peojDle's  improvement.  Yet,  when  I  compare  what 
exists  with  the  past,  and  think  of  two  hundred  families 
residing  here,  so  far  advanced  as  they  are,  I  am  grateful, 
encouraged,  and  even  joyous.  All  are  decently  housed  to 
what  they  formerly  were, — in  far  better  condition  than  the 
peasantry  of  England  in  the  palmy  days  of  Elizabeth,  or 
the  peasantry  of  Ireland  now, — they  are  comfortably  clad 
in  fabrics  of  English  manufacture ;  all  are  on  the  way  to  a 
higher  civilization,  and  all  enjoy  the  ordinances  of  religion. 

Besides  attending  the  usual  public  services  on  the 
Sunday,  I  went  in  the  afternoon  to  the  schools.  The 
adults  were  in  the  chapel,  the  children  in  the  school-room. 


20  VAGKANCY  LAW. 

Of  the  fonnor  I  I'oiuul  one  hundred  and  lifty  men,  and  one 
hunchvd  and  twenty  women  in  the  classes ;  of  the  latter, 
about  one  hundred  and  forty.  I  heard  most  of  the  classes 
read  a  little.  About  twenty  or  thirty  women  read  with 
very  creditable  facility;  some  of  them  with  gi'eat  ease. 
Some  old  i:)ersons  ai-e  also  doing  their  best,  though  evi- 
dently commencing  rather  too  late  in  life  to  make  much 
progress.  But  it  is  a  sight  worth  looking  at — specta- 
cles employed  to  learn  ABC.  Cato  began  Greek  at 
eighty. 

After  school  a  prayer-meeting  was  held.  The  natives 
conducted  the  devotional  exercises ;  and  I  must  say  they 
did  so  with  iutelligence,  simplicity,  and  apparent  fervour. 
A  native  woman  pitched  the  well-known  tunes  of  Devizes, 
Derby,  and  Mariner's,  familiar  to  my  ears  from  my  youth 
upward.  In  tlie  morning  we  had  had  the  Old  Hundi-edth, 
and  Irish.  The  voice  of  joy  and  rejoicing  is  in  the  taber- 
nacles of  the  righteous.  It  was  often  exhilarating,  amidst 
African  jounieymg,  to  hear  the  songs  of  Zion  from  musical 
native  voices,  to  notes  so  jubilant  in  one's  own  land. 

I  found  considerable  excitement  here,  as  mdeed  in  many 
other  parts  of  the  colony,  in  consequence  of  some  recent 
efforts  to  revive  a  "vagi'ancy  law;"  the  design  of  which  is 
to  commit  men  as  vagrants,  and  compel  them  to  work,  for 
limited  jDeriods,  who  might  be  found  travelling  about 
without  some  "pass,"  or  ticket  of  penuission  to  remove. 
Such  a  measure  may  supersede  some  evils  ;  it  may  detect 
and  punish  some  that  are  idle,  vicious,  and  ill-disposed, 
and  it  may  prevent  "squatting."  But  it  creates  greater 
evils  than  it  prevents.  It  cannot  be  sustained  without 
inflicting  much  oppression  and  cruelty,  especially  in  a 
colony  where  there  are  no  poor  laws ;  and  it  is  this  con- 
sideration Avhich  renders  a  vagrant  law  so  emphatically 
unjust  and  inappropriate.  The  labourer  has  no  parish  to 
appeal  to  for  relief;  he  must  look  out  for  work,  and  yet, 
in  doing  that, — in  cariying  his  labour  to  the  best  market, — 
he  is  liable  to  be  apprehended,  and  his  labour  forced  fi'om 


magistrate's  report.  21 

him  in  the  worst  market.  Such  a  measure,  if  carried, 
would  assuredly  rather  injure  than  benefit  the  farmer. 
The  industrious  agricultural  servant  would  be  disgusted, 
and  would  "  trek,"  that  is,  would  leave  the  colony  in  search 
of  a  quiet  settlement  elsewhere,  in  the  interior,  to  avoid  its 
possible  application  to  himself.  It  appears  to  alii  right- 
minded  men  I  conversed  with  on  the  subject,  that  in  the 
absence  of  poor  laws,  to  provide  for  the  necessitous,  a 
vagrant  law  could  never  be  an  equitable  measure. 

Amidst  contending  ojiinions  as  to  the  supj^ly  of  labour, 
and  the  value  of  Missionary  Institutions  as  creating  and 
encouraging,  or  limiting  and  discouraging  that  labour,  the 
Cape  Government  had  very  properly  resolved  on  instituting 
careful  local  inquiry.  Circulars  were  accordingly  issued 
to  the  civil  commissioners,  magistrates,  justices  of  the 
peace,  ministers,  missionaries,  and  other  persons  of  intel- 
ligence and  influence  in  the  colony.  Official  Reports  had 
been  ti-ansmitted  to  the  Government.  That  which  re- 
spected Zuurbraak  was  not  favourable  to  the  character  of 
the  people  and  the  Institution.  The  Government  had,  with 
great  consideration  and  fairness,  sent  it  back  to  the  re- 
sident and  responsible  Missionary,  for  his  remarks  and 
explanations.  I  think  it  would  not  be  an  easy  task  to 
exonerate  the  parties  who  drew  up  that  Report  from  a  sus- 
picion either  of  prejudice,  or  of  haviiig  performed  their  work 
very  superficially  and  discreditably.  They  remark,  in  their 
Report  to  the  Government — 

"  From  the  loose  manner  in  which  the  whole  establishment  is  con- 
ducted, the  absence  of  all  control  over  its  members  by  the  superm- 
tendent,  and  there  being  no  correct  register  or  record  for  our  guidance, 
we  could  arrive  at  no  conclusion  as  to  the  number  of  persons  belonging 
to  the  Institution.  The  superintendent  believed  there  must  be  about 
1400  or  1500,  including  all  ages  ;  but  as  many  came  for  a  month  or 
two,  and  then  went  away  for  indefinite  periods,  he  could  not  vouch 
for  the  accuracy  of  his  statement  or  his  books." 

In  reply  to  this  ungenerous  passage,  the  Missionary  re- 
marks in  his  letter  to  the  Government,  dated  29th  May, 


22  missionary's  statement. 

1840,  written  wliilo  I  happened  to  be  at  Zuurbraak,  and 
while  I  had  the  opportunity  of  testing,  personally,  the  ac- 
curacy of  the  IMissionarys  statements — 

"I  beg  to  say,  that  no  adequate  opportunity  was  afFordcd  me  dtiring 
the  examination,  of  giving  the  evidence  which  I  could  have  given, 
and  was  perfectly  willing  to  afford,  had  I  received  any  courteous 
treatment  from  the  commissioners,  or  had  proper  time  been  allowed 
me.  The  truth  is,  I  had  returned  only  on  the  Saturday  from  a  journey, 
I  had  my  public  service  to  prepare  for  and  attend  to  on  the  Sunday, 
and  on  the  Monday  the  examination  commenced,  I  soon  found  that 
my  presence  was  unwelcome,  and  my  evidence  regarded  as  suspicious. 
I  produced  the  records  of  the  Institution,  and  placed  them  upon  the 
table  of  the  coiomissioners.  I  never  said,  '  I  covdd  not  vouch  for  the 
accuracy  of  my  statements  or  my  books.'  I  said  I  could  not  vouch 
for  the  accuracy  of  my  memory  in  matters  of  detail,  without  referring 
to  my  books.  I  did  not  say  'that  many  came  for  a  month  or  two, 
and  then  went  away  for  mdefinite  periods.' 

"  Records  have  been  kept  from  the  commencement  of  the  Institu- 
tion, and  they  show  exactly  the  numbers  admitted,  the  births,  deaths, 
and  removals  ;  they  exhibit  a  total  of  2100  as  having  belonged  to  the 
Institution  since  its  commencement ;  they  justify  my  statement,  that 
between  fourteen  and  fifteen  hundred  are  still  connected  v.-iih.  it,  by 
retaining  their  names  on  the  register,  and  regEirdiug  Zuurbraak  as 
their  home,  though  fi-om  three  to  four  hundred  do  not  permanently 
reside  on  the  Institution,  but  are  m  the  sendee  of  the  farmers.  K 
their  names  were  erased  from  the  register  on  account  of  absence,  they 
would  prefer  to  leaAe  the  farmers'  service  and  retui'n  to  reside  on  the 
Institution,  This  was  clearly  explained  to  the  commissioners,  but 
is  not  noticed  in  their  Report, 

"At  present  there  are  about  1100  residing  at  Zuurbraak,  consisting 
of  215  families.  Out  of  the  whole  number  belonging  to  the  Institu- 
tion, 200  men  served  in  the  Kaffir  w-ar  in  1846,  and  about  150  in  1847. 

"  There  is  nothing  'loose  in  conducting  the  establishment  or  in  ex- 
ercising such  control  as  falls  within  the  province  of  the  Missionary. 
He  has  no  magisterial  authority,  and  does  not  desire  to  have  any  : 
his  influence  is  of  a  moral  and  rehgious  character.  The  residents  on 
the  Institution  are  all  enrolled,  aU  known  and  visited,  and  are  all 
under  the  religious  mstruction  and  care  of  the  Missionarj\  "With 
their  civil  and  domestic  arrangements  he  has  no  power  to  interfere. 
The  people  are  a  free  people,  and  dispose  of  their  labour  in  the  best 
market  they  can  find.  The  lands  belong  to  Government,  and  neither 
the  Missionary  nor  the  Missionary  Society  has  any  legal  power  to 


TABULAR  REPOKT.  23 

exiJel  any  inhabitant.  At  the  same  time,  the  people  entertain  great 
respect  for  the  character,  advice,  and  control  of  the  Missionary.  He 
is  not  without  influence,  but  it  is  moral,  and  not  magisterial. 

"  Again,  the  Commissioners  had  reported  that  the  members  of  the 
Institution,  having  been  preA'iously  warned  of  the  inquuy  and  exami- 
nation that  was  to  take  place,  were  at  our  request  assembled  in  the 
chapel;  and  when  all  collected  excepting  the  sick,  the  members 
present  were  ascertained  to  be,  161  males,  and  135  females.  Of  these, 
105  were  examined,  besides  the  women,  who  said  they  could  read  ; 
the  remainder  left  the  chapel  of  theii-  own  accord,  or  were  said  to  be 
persons  whose  parents  had  given  evidence. 

"The  Tabular  Report  shoAvs  the  result  of  this  examination,  which 
may  be  briefly  siunmed  up  as  follows  : — 

"  Tlu'ee  could  read  a  verse  of  the  New  Testament  tolerably  well. 

"  Three  could  -WTite  their  names. 

"  Fifteen  attempted  to  read,  but  then-  progress  was  so  imperfect  as 
to  be  a  failure. 

•'  Eighty-seven  said  they  could  neither  read  nor  A\Tite. 

"  Twelve  stated  themselves  to  be  of  a  particular  calling,  trade,  or 
business. 

•' Ninety- thi-ee  said  they  followed  no  particular  trade  or  employ- 
ment, but  cultivated  their  gardens,  and  went  about  the  coimtry  to 
cut  wood,  plough,  drive  wagons,  reap,  and  other  agricultui'al  work, 
without  being  in  any  regular  service. 

"  Of  the  105,  few  could  teU  theii'  own,  their  wives',  or  their  cliild- 
ren's  ages. 

"  A  subscription  of  one  sliillmg  per  month  appears  to  be  contri- 
buted by  each  family  towards  the  London  Missionary  Society." 

On  this  passage  the  Missionary  remarks,  as  to  three  only 
being  found  who  could  read  a  verse  of  the  New  Testament 
tolei'ably  well — 

"I  affirm  that  there  are  at  least  140  persons  belongmg  to  the  Insti- 
tution, above  eighteen  years  of  age,  who  can  read  any  chapter  hi  the 
Bible  with  ease,  and  so  as  to  understand  it." 

I  must  say,  I  quite  believe  this  statement,  for  I  heard 
very  many  read  on  the  Sunday  afternoon  I  was  there,  with 
perfect  ease  and  correctness. 

"  '  Three  could  "HTite  their  names.'  There  are  at  least /o;-^y  adults 
who  can  AVTito  tolerably  well. 

"  'Eighty-seven  could  neither  read  nor  write.'     It  is  probable  that 


24  NATIVE  ixnrsTRT. 

several  who  could  cither  read  or  A\Tite,  were  prevented  by  mere  shy- 
ness from  acknowledging  what  would  perhaps  immediately  lead  to 
an  unfavoiu-ablc  exhibition  of  thcii-  qualifications  before  judges,  whom, 
from  their  bearing,  they  could  not  help  looking  \ipon  as  prejudiced 
against  them  and  the  Institution. 

"  But,  if  it  had  been  as  stated  in  the  Report,  some  allowance  ought 
to  have  been  made  for  the  difficulty  persons  must  find  who  begin, 
wlicn  adults,  to  learn  to  read  and  -wTite,  and  who  are  constantly  em- 
ployed in  the  field  as  agricultural  laboui-ers." 

Again  : — 

"  '  Twelve  said  they  were  of  a  particular  calling,  trade,  or  business; 
and  ninety-five  represented  themselves  as  agriciiltural  laboui'ers.' 

"Out  of  250  men,"  rejoms  the  Missionary,  "residing  on  the  Insti- 
tution, 187  support  themselves  and  families  by  engaging  as  farmers' 
labourers,  and  ai'e  in  regular  service.  The  rest  of  the  men  are  wood 
cutters,  carriers,  five  or  six  are  small  fanners,  and  a  few  are  mechanics." 

That  many  of  the  adults  do  not  know  theii'  own  ages,  or 
that  of  their  children,  may  he  perfectly  true,  nor  do  they 
attach  much  importance  to  the  matter. 

The  Commissioners  state,  that  one  shilling  per  month 
is  contributed  by  each  family  towards  the  London  Mission- 
ary Society. 

"  The  fact  is,  there  is  an  Auxiliary  to  that  Society ;  and  it  has 
raised  dm-ing  the  last  ten  years  an  average  amount  of  £40 — showing 
that  only  about  one-thu-d  of  the  sum  stated  by  the  Commissioners 
has  been  realized.  If  all  paid  as  stated  by  them,  it  would  nearly 
relieve  the  funds  of  the  Parent  Society  of  any  charge  for  supporting 
the  Missionary, — an  object  very  much  to  be  desked." 

The  ^Missionary  has  no  interest  in  the  amount  raised. 
He  receives  his  salary  from  the  Parent  Society,  and  the 
contributions  of  the  people,  whether  large  or  small  (which 
are  all  voluntaiy)  are  paid  into  the  Society's  funds  as  those 
of  an  Auxiliary. 

The  Commissioners  sj^eak  of  liberated  negroes  as  ad- 
mitted to  the  Institution.  There  is  neither  law,  custom, 
nor  princi2:)le,  to  forbid  this,  even  if  it  were  so ;  but  the 
truth  is,  only  five  have  been  admitted ;  and  of  these,  three 


EAEXIKGS  OF  THE  PEOPLE.  25 

were  admitted  on  account  of  their  having  married  yomig 
women  belonging  to  the  Institution. 

"  Others  reside  here,"  the  Commissioners  state,  "who  are  with  dra'WTi 
from  agricultural  labour  m  the  district,  and  have  realized  property, 
and  one  such  is  specified.  This  is  granted;  but  these  men  have 
realized  the  property  suice  they  came  to  the  Institution,  by  their 
industry  and  fi-ugality.  It  would  be  cruel  and  imjust  to  expel  them 
on  this  groiuid.  They  are  useful  examples  to  all  the  rest,  and  they 
deserve  enco\iragement  themselves. 

"  In  proof  of  the  general  industry  of  the  people,  it  may  be  remarked, 
that  out  of  the  fu'st  fifty-two  names  wMch  occur  in  the  tabidar  list 
given  by  the  Conmiissioners,  thirty-five  who  happen  now  to  be  here, 
and  who  have  given  an  account  of  their  labours  and  earnings  duriag 
the  last  year,  actually  obtained  durmg  that  period  £809.  This  was 
realized  mainly  by  the  men,  but  aided  to  some  extent  by  the  women, 
in  the  sale  of  mats,  and  dress-making.  This  is  exclusive  of  the 
garden  produce  raised  and  used  by  theu-  families,  and  of  the  food 
given  to  the  men  by  the  farmers  while  actually  in  their  employment. 
The  above  account  gives  an  average  of  about  £23  10s.  for  each  famUy, 
in.  money ;  and  this  is  about  the  amount  that  is  raised  by  the  families 
generally  throughout  the  Institution,  as  the  reward  of  their  diligent 
labour  and  honest  industry." 

The  above  quotations  might  be  sufficient  to  meet  the 
case.  But,  as  the  Eeport  of  the  magistrates  so  deeply 
affects  the  character  of  the  Missionary  Institutions,  I  am 
persuaded  that  it  is  due  to  them  to  add  these  further  re- 
marks of  Mr.  Helm  : — 

"Another  proof  of  the  general  industry,  and  amount  of  the  earn- 
ings of  the  people  of  the  Institution,  is  the  sums  realized  by  persons, 
who,  at  the  request  of  the  people,  and  in  order  to  obviate  the  neces- 
sity for  their  resorting  to  villages  where  there  are  canteens,  have  been 
encouraged  to  open  shops  at  the  Institution.  One  has  rethed,  having 
realized  m  five  or  six  years  £800,  by  his  profits  on  the  manufactm-es, 
&c.,  which  he  sold;  and  I  have  been  shown  the  books  of  another,  by 
which  it  appears  that  he  receives  above  £100  per  month  in  cash,  and 
more  than  twice  as  much  during  the  harvest  and  sheep -shearing 
months.  I  am  authorised  by  Mr.  Barry  to  state  that  he  pays  above 
£600  sterling  amiually  to  carriers  belonging  to  the  Institution  ;  and 
by  a  gentleman  in  the  neighbourhood,  who  sliears  between  4000  and 


•^0  CHMtACTER  OF  THE  INSTITUTION'S. 

5000  sheep,  and  reaps  from  100  to  200  muids  of  grain,  that,  beside 
from  200  to  300  rix  dollars,  (equal  to  one  shilling  and  six  pence  each) 
which  he  pays  to  Hottentots  constantly  in  his  service,  he  pays  more 
than  .500  rix  dollars — a  sum  equal  to  £37  10*.  sterling — in  wages  to  day 
labom-crs  belonging  to  the  Institution ;  and  the  probability  is,  that 
as  much  is  jiaid,  in  proportion  to  their  -want  of  labour,  by  all  Avho 
ti-ust  to  the  Institution  for  a  supply  of  day  labour. 

"  The  married  women  do  not  go  out  to  Avork,  as  a  general  rule. 
They  have  all  families,  and  they  reside  at  home  to  attend  to  their 
households,  manufacture  mats,  &c.  It  is  not  the  A\ish  of  the  men 
that  their  -nives  shoidd  go  out  to  labour  ;  they  laboui*  for  them  and 
their  chilcken.  Many  of  the  yoiuig  women  lU'e  out  in  service  at 
Swellendam  and  elsewhere." 

A  severe  insinuation  is  made  on  the  general  character  of 
those  who  are  admitted  to  the  Institution,  in  the  following 
terms  : — 

"From  what  came  under  our  notice,  it  is  evident  no  hindrance  or 
obstacle  is  thi-o-\\Ti  in  the  way  of  parties,  of  whatever  character,  resort- 
ing there,  and  making  Zum-braak  their  home,"  &c. 

It  must  be  admitted  that  many  who  come  and  seek  ad- 
mission are  not  religious  ;  and  it  is  feared  that  some  w'ho 
reside  on  the  Institution  are  not  religious.  But  all  who 
come  profess  to  be  so,  that  they  may  enjoy  the  advantages 
of  religious  instruction,  and  all  who  reside  on  the  Institu- 
tion avail  themselves  of  such  instruction  ;  and  assuredly 
no  temptations  are  offered  to  others  of  vicious  character  to 
come  there  for  residence,  for  no  canteen  is  permitted,  and 
there  are  no  females  who  are  known  to  be  of  depraved 
habits.  No  females  live  in  houses  by  themselves  ;  all  the 
houses  are  occupied  by  married  couples  and  their  families. 

"With  regard  to  'debts,'  I  must  distinctly  affirm  that  no  encourage- 
ment is  given  to  any  to  incur  debts;  and,  in  fact,  not  more  than  £100 
is  due  from  the  entire  population,  not  even  a  twentieth  part  of  their 
amiual  earnings.  The  Missionary  has  no  interest  whatever  in  the 
shop,  or  the  sale  of  goods  in  any  way. 

"  I  cannot  close  my  letter  without  briefly  remarking  on  the  spirit 
of  the  Report.  I  consider  it  flagrantly  unjust  tOM-ards  the  people, 
for  whose  general  character,  as  honest,  diligent,  virtuous,  and  sober, 
I  solemidy  vouch.     The  Report  is  unfaithful  to  the  people,  whom  it 


D.   MOODIE,  ESQ.  '27 

grossly  misrepresents  ;  and  to  the  government,  which  it  is  calciilated 
to  deceive.  The  supposed  l^Titer  of  it,  the  party  principally  employed 
on  it, — and  who,  I  may  remark,  had  previously  committed  himself 
too  seriously  to  be  considered  an  impartial  judge, — may  have  foimd 
difficulty  in  obtaining  servants  and  labourers,  wliich,  if  the  whole 
truth  were  told,  might  reflfect  more  discredit  on  himself  than  on  the 
people.  On  this,  however,  I  forbear  to  remark,  especially  as  he  is 
now  absent  from  the  colony." 

The  gentleman  referred  to  in  the  above  letter,  D.  Moodie, 
Esq.,  Justice  of  the  Peace,  was  present  at  a  subsequent  ex- 
amination of  104  heads  of  families  belonging  to  the  Institu- 
tion, as  to  their  occupations  and  their  earnings.  He  has  borne 
testimony  to  the  progressive  improvement  of  this  people.* 
He  is  competent  to  form  a  judgment  on  the  case  from  his 
long  residence  in  the  neighbourhood,  his  practical  know- 
ledge of  the  people,  and  his  official  intercourse  with  them. 
The  following  is  an  extract  from  Mr.  Moodie's  testimony : — 

"I  certify  that  I  have  possessed,  and  generally  occupied  my  present 
residence,  within  an  hour's  ride  of  the  Institution,  during  a  period  of 
thirty-two  years,  and,  deducting  short  periods  of  absence,  have  re- 
sided here  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  century ;  that  I  know  almost  every 

resident  member  of  the  Institution  ; that,  for  several  years, 

an  exception  has  been  rare  to  the  general  fact,  that  the  Hottentots  of 
Zutu-braak  Institution  earn  an  honest  livelihood,  perhaps  in  the  very 
best  way  that  it  could  be  done  for  the  interests  of  the  commmiity  of 
which  they  form  a  part ;  that,  for  several  years,  thefts  of  sheep  or 
cattle  are  seldom  heard  of,  and  the  suspicion,  when  they  do  occur, 
generally  attaches  rather  to  wandering  persons  of  colour  than  to  the 
residents  of  any  Missionary  Institution  ;  that  there  is  no  country  in 
the  world  where  property  of  the  kind  is  more  sectu-e  at  present  from 
depredation  than  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Zuui-braak." 

There  cannot  be  anything  more  unjust  or  subversive  of 
the  best  interests  of  humanity  than  the  obloquy  so  wantonly 
heaped  on  the  Missionaries,  to  whose  character  and  exer- 
tions the  present  advanced  state  of  civilization  amongst  the 

*  See  "Blue  Book,"  entitled  Addenda  to  the  Documents  on  the 
Working  of  the  Order  in  Council  of  July  21st,  184G,  i).  98,  Cape 
Town,  1849. 


28  CONTINUANCE  OR  ABANDONMENT 

Hottentots  and  coloured  population  is  principally  owing, 
on  the  alleged  ground  of  their  management  of  the  tempo- 
ral concerns  of  their  hearers,  by  interfering  with  them  in 
the  disposal  of  their  labour. 

The  public  are  indebted  to  the  Missionaries  hitherto  for 
having,  merely  by  their  moral  influence,  without  a  shadow 
of  legal  authority,  saved  to  it  the  expense  of  Institutions 
required  for  the  control  of  assemblages  equally  numerous 
in  other  localities. 

In  noticing  the  advances  the  Hottentots  have  made  in 
civilization,  the  progress  they"  have  made  in  erecting  for 
themselves,  for  persons  of  their  class,  really^  substantial 
houses,  and  the  acquisition  of  other  comforts,  should  not 
be  ovei'looked ;  and  this  they  have  done  under  the  most 
unfavourable  circumstances,  Avithout  any  recognised  indi- 
vidual right  to  the  soil,  or  even  their  own  capital,  which 
they  have  fixed  upon  it. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  there  is  ample  room  for  im- 
provement in  the  Institution,  as  indeed  in  all  of  them,  and 
it  might  be  difficult  to  find  any  institution  in  the  world,  in 
Avhich  there  is  not  room  for  improvement.  It  is  evident 
that  in  all  these  South  African  Institutions,  there  might 
be  more  industry,  better  houses,  larger  portions  of  land 
brought  under  culture ;  the  people  might  do  more  towards 
their  own  social  and  religious  improvement.  Perhaps 
much  of  this  would  be  eff"ected,  if  the  jieople  were  more 
encouraged.  The  Hottentot  labourer  requii'es  a  stimulus, 
not  that  of  the  threat  or  the  lash,  but  kind  treatment  and 
fair  wages ;  and  when  among  the  farmei-s,  some  decent 
place  to  lodge  and  sleep  in ;  in  a  word,  to  be  made  to  feel 
that  he  is  regarded  as  a  reasonable  being. 

It  may  not  be  out  of  place  here,  to  allude  to  the  grave 
question  of  the  continuance  or  abandonment  of  these  In- 
stitutions altogether.  Some  have  thought  that  the  time 
has  come  when  they  are  no  longer  required;  w'hen  the 
people  might  be  left  to  their  own  energies  and  resources, 
without  that  constant  superintendence    supplied  by    the 


OF  MISSlONAnY  INSTITUTIONS.  29 

Missionaries,  and  when  tlie  colony  would  be  more  gene- 
rally benefited  by  their  distribution  among  the  farmers, 
than  by  retaining  them  congregated  in  their  present  lo- 
calities. Others,  without  adopting  all  these  views,  have 
thought  it  would  be  advantageous  to  give  the  Hottentots  a 
freehold  right  in  the  soil  of  the  Institutions,  so  that  they 
should  have  the  power  of  sale  and  transfer,  and  that, 
possessing  an  interest  of  that  nature  in  the  soil,  they 
would  feel  a  stronger  inducement  to  improve  it,  and  to 
build  substantial  houses.  The  objection  to  this  is,  that,  in 
all  probability,  the  Hottentots,  for  the  most  part,  under 
the  prospect  of  a  temporary  advantage,  would  be  tempted 
to  sell  and  alienate  their  lands.  Europeans  or  colonists 
would  become  the  purchasers,  the  aborigines  would  soon 
cease  to  retain  an  interest  in  the  soil,  the  design  of  the 
Institutions  would  be  wholly  superseded,  and  the  pur- 
poses of  Government,  in  gi'anting  this  use  of  the  land, 
frustrated. 

It  appears  to  me  altogether  undesirable  to  dissolve  the 
Institutions.  The  Hottentots  and  other  natives  enjoy 
moral  and  religious  advantages  there,  which  they  could  not 
if  dispersed  through  the  colony.  If  dispersed,  their  fami- 
lies would  be  left  without  education,  and  would  rajiidly 
deteriorate;  they  themselves  would  sink  into  dependency 
and  apathy,  for  want  of  the  symj^athy  of  numbers,  of  class, 
and  of  association,  and  for  want  of  the  guidance  and  cheer- 
ing counsel  of  the  Christian  Pastor.  They  would  be, 
moreover,  exposed  to  the  prejudices  still  largely  existing 
against  colour,  without  the  indemnifying  feeling  which  they 
now  have,  that  they  form  a  community,  and  a  community 
of  some  importance.  Their  isolation,  if  dispersed,  would 
destroy  this  remnant  of  consolation,  and  they  would  inevi- 
tably sink  under  the  oppi'essive  feeling  of  being  a  people. 
"  scattered,  peeled,  and  trodden  down." 

It  may  be  worthy  of  consideration  also,  whether  the 
colony  and  the  Government  would  not  be  greatly  injured 
by  the  dispersion  of  the  residents  of  the  Institutions.    The 


30  OriNTON  OF  Dn.  putltp. 

farmers  have  thought  it  would  necessarily  augment  the 
number  of  their  labours.  I  think  the  effect  would  be  just 
the  reverse.  JNIany  of  these  people,  distrusting  their  em- 
ployers, and  fearing  that  a  vagrancy  law  would  soon  be 
introduced,  would  migrate,  and  pass  beyond  the  colonial 
boundaries.  This  Avas  the  resolution,  I  know,  which  many 
of  them  had  formed,  in  case  a  vagrancy  law  were  adopted  : 
and  their  dispersion  would  produce  the  same  effect. 

In  case  of  border-war  with  the  Kaffirs,  the  Government 
has  hitherto  found  it  a  matter  of  convenience  to  appeal  to 
all  these  Institutions  at  once  for  effective  aid ;  and  until 
the  present  war  (1850),  the  appeal  has  been  successful. 
This  may,  perchance,  not  be  a  reason  for  sustaining  the 
Institutions,  in  the  view  of  members  of  the  Peace  Society, 
but  I  am  suggesting  it  as  a  view  of  the  case  which  the  local 
government  cannot  altogether  overlook,  whose  oi:)inion.  it 
is  understood,  is  not  favourable  to  the  perpetuation  of  the 
Institutions. 

To  this  I  will  only  add  the  deliberate  judgment  of  the 
venerable  Dr.  Philip,  as  communicated  to  the  Directors  of 
the  Missionary  Society,  in  December,  1848.  His  remarks 
arise  out  of  a  suggestion  that  "  the  property,  i.e.  the  land,  be 
made  absolutely  transferable,"  or,  "transferable  under  the 
important  condition,  (to  prevent  the  whole  from  falling  into 
the  hands  of  one  or  two  speculators,)  that  "  one  person 
only  should  hold  one  original  share  of  the  lands."  Dr.  P. 
observes : — 

"  At  present,  the  residents  or  members  of  those  Institutions,  while 
their  families  are  receiAing  instruction,  are  useful  to  the  neighbour- 
ing farmers  as  labourers,  and  in  various  capacities  perform  useful 
service  to  the  public.  "WTien  not  so  employed,  they  also  receive 
instruction  and  find  a  home  at  the  Institution.  In  this  manner  an 
educated  and  moral  class  of  labourers,  or  peasantry,  is  gradually 
formed  and  distributed  throughout  the  colony ;  for  whenever  an 
individual  or  family  think  they  can  better  their  condition  by  removing 
to  a  to^\ai  or  village,  or  to  some  agricultural  district,  they  feel  at  per- 
fect liberty  to  do  so ;  and  this  is  the  distinguishing  characteristic  of 
our  Institutions  or  Schools.     They  are  preparatory  Institutions  for 


PACALTSDOKP.  31 

converting  the  savage  and  heathen  natives  of  the  colonj^  into  a 
civUizcd  and  Christian  and  free  chiss  of  citizens,  ready  to  fulfil  the 
duties  of  any  rank  or  station  to  which  then-  mdustry,  talents,  and 
good  conduct  may  raise  them.  This  has  been  accomxDlished  m  the 
case  of  many  thousands,  who  still  warmly  proclaim  that  they  owe  all 
they  enjoy,  or  hope  for,  to  these  Institutions  ;  but  thousands  still 
remam  for  whom  they  must  be  kept  open,  luiless  we  are  prepared, 
when  domg  good,  to  say  'It  is  enough,'  though  the  work  is  still  im- 
perfect. When  all  are  educated  for  whom  these  Institutions  were 
established  in  1801,  or  when  means  equally  effective  for  promoting 
among  them  the  knowledge  of  Christ  are  adopted  throughout  the 
whole  colony,  or  when  they  shall  no  longer  be  needed  as  asylums, 
then  may  the  lands  be  made  the  fi'eehold  property  of  the  existing 
holders  ;  then  may  all  distinctions  between  these  and  other  villages 
be  abolished,  and  the  coloui-ed  classes,  no  longer  barbarians  or 
heathens,  may  then  be  left  like  all  their  fellow  subjects  to  theii-  o-wti 
resources." 

If  any  radical  change  were  to  be  effected  in  these  Insti- 
tutions, such  as  the  resum^jtion  of  the  lands  by  the 
Government,  if  that  were  deemed  an  equitable  and  proper 
measure,  then  I  am  disposed  to  think,  it  would  be  expedient 
for  the  Missionary  Societies,  or  other  parties  friendly  to 
the  aborigines,  to  purchase  large  farms  in  the  most  suitable 
localities,  and  constitute  these  native  villages,  when  the 
land  might  be  let  on  easy  but  remunerative  terms,  where 
suitable  regulations  could  be  adopted  and  carried  into 
effect,  more  rigidly  than  now,  where  the  Missionary  has  no 
power  to  eject  members  however  injurious  to  the  local  com- 
munity, and  discreditable  to  the  Missionary  Society,  which 
is  held  responsible,  in  public  estimation,  for  the  character 
and  conduct  of  all  the  residents  in  the  Institutions. 

After  having  paid  a  visit  to  Mr.  Moodie,  the  magistrate 
already  mentioned,  I  proceeded  towards  Pacaltsdorp,  a 
distance  of  about  three  days' journey.  The  fii'st  niglit  we 
remained  at  Iliversdale,  a  rising  village  and  promising 
district.  Here  is  some  fine  rich  country,  consisting  of 
extensive  plains  and  valleys,  watered  by  the  Vet  stream. 
The  hills  reminded  me  of  those  of  Worccstersliire  and 
Devonshire, — sloping  and  gently  rounded.      They  belong 


32  PACALTSDORP. 

to  the  old  red  sandstone  formation.  From  thence  we  pro- 
ceeded toward  the  Gauritz  River,  and  rested  for  the  night 
within  three  miles  of  it.  The  descent  is  steep  and  difficult. 
We  crossed  in  safety,  and  hoped  to  reach  Pacaltsdorp  that 
evening,  and  for  that  purpose  had  hired  an  additional  team 
of  oxen  at  Eiversdale  ;  hut  we  found  the  distance  too  great, 
and  the  cattle  two  feehle.  Besides  having  his  horned 
cattle,  the  traveller  in  Africa  frequently  finds  himself  in  the 
"  horns"  of  a  dilemma.  If  he  travels  in  the  rainy  season, 
his  oxen  obtain  grass,  but  the  rivers  are  swollen,  and  there 
is  delay,  as  the  shoulders  of  the  animals  are  grazed  and 
scarred  by  the  yokes,  and  they  cannot  draw ;  and  if  he  travel 
in  the  dry  season  he  finds  neither  sufficient  grass  nor  water, 
and  his  cattle  are  unfit  for  much  service  ;  and  then  he  sighs 
for  the  comfort  of  English  travelling. 

We  spent  part  of  the  Sunday  at  the  Convict  Station, 
where  we  had  permission  to  hold  a  service.  We  slept  that 
night  near  the  Guayang  Eiver,  crossed  it  early  next 
morning,  ascended  the  neighbom-ing  hill  and  soon  came  in 
sight  of  Pacaltsdorp.  Six  of  the  people  came  forward  on 
horseback  to  give  me  their  greeting,  and  on  getting  near 
the  village  about  seventy  or  eighty  more  on  foot;  they  sang 
a  Dutch  hymn,  as  they  proceeded  by  the  side  of  my  wagon, 
to  the  heart-stirring  tune  of  "  God  save  the  Queen" — a 
tune  that  always  adds  some  25  per  cent,  to  the  pulse  of  an 
Englishman,  in  whatever  quarter  of  the  world  he  may 
chance  to  be  ;  we  presently  passed  within  the  green  painted 
gates  of  the  Institution,  and  found  ourselves  welcomed  by 
the  Piev.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Atkinson,  and  Eev.  W.  Anderson, 
then  in  his  eightieth  year,  and  the  fiftieth  of  his  Missionary 
service. 

We  held  a  public  meeting  that  evening.  About  two 
hundred  and  fifty  of  the  people  attended.  I  embraced  the 
opportunity  of  addressing  them  on  various  points  relating 
to  their  social  improvement  and  religious  advantages.  The 
Piev.  E.  Miller,  who  had  accompanied  me  thus  far,  did  the 
same.     About  eight  of  the  people  then  responded  to  our 


PACALTSDORP.  33 

remarks,  in  a  brief  but  appropriate  manner.  Their  re- 
marks were  principally  confined  to  their  spiritual  interests  ; 
they  acknowledged  how  much  they  were  indebted  to  the 
gospel  for  all  their  improvement  and  enjoyment  which  had 
been  conveyed  to  them  by  our  Society,  and  which  they 
knew  and  felt  to  be  the  truth.  Two  of  them  spoke  with 
much  ease  and  fluency,  and  on  my  inquiring  afterwards 
Avho  they  were,  it  was  with  no  little  satisfaction  I  found 
that  one  of  them  was  Andries  Kogerman,  who  was  to  be 
my  attendant  from  this  spot  through  the  rest  of  my  journey, 
a  deacon  of  the  Church,  and  who  had  often  accompanied 
Dr.  Philip,  in  the  same  capacity.  Aiid  I  found  him  to  the 
end  of  my  journey,  and  till  I  left  the  colony,  a  faithful, 
kind,  attentive,  and  excellent  man.* 

Pacaltsdorp  takes  it  name  from  Mr.  Pacalt,  an  excellent 
Missionary  from  Germany,  formerly  placed  here  by  the 
Directors  of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  and  whose 
memory  is  held  in  honour  by  the  people.  The  Institution 
has  laboured  under  disadvantages.  The  land  is  held  by  ,a 
"  ticket  of  occupation"  from  the  Government ;  but  unless 
the  people  have  a  personal  right  in  the  soil,  they  are 
scarcely  willing  to  improve  it  so  diligently  as  they  might 
do  ;  at  any  rate,  they  plead  this  as  an  excuse  for  not  doing 
it.  A  farm  in  the  neighbourhood  has  been  purchased  for 
their  benefit,  and  towards  which  they  contributed  a  por- 
tion. They  appeared  to  me  to  require  stimulating ;  and 
yet  the  incessant  demand  for  stimulus  is  extremely  fatiguing 
and  exhausting  to  a  Missionary.  They  have  a  Missionary 
of  great  mildness  and  excellence  to  labour  among  them. 
In  addition  to  all  his  other  services,  he  takes  charge  of  the 
school ;  and  one  cannot  but  hope  he  may  witness  the  suc- 
cess of  his   toil,  both  among  the  juvenile  and  the  adult 

*  Andi-ies  was  leaving  his  wife  and  family,  to  accompany  me  for 
many  months.  As  he  could  not  write,  and  therefore  could  carry  on 
no  direct  correspondence  with  his  home,  I  advised  him  to  try  and 
learn  during  the  journey.  He  did  so,  and  succeeded  in  writing 
epistles  not  a  few. 

D 


;U  GEORGE. 

portion  of  his  flock,  on  a  larger  scale  than  lias  yet  been 
realized.  Persevering  energy  seldom  lails  of  accomplishing 
its  object.     "  In  due  season  ye  shall  reap,  if  ye  faint  not." 

There  is  an  excellent  Infant  School  at  Pacaltsdorp,  con- 
ducted by  Miss  Anderson.  The  daily  school,  which  is  not 
largely  attended,  is  diligently  conducted  by  Mr.  Atkinson. 
It  is  to  be  lamented  that  the  advantages  of  education  are 
not  more  appreciated  by  the  natives.  That  appreciation 
must,  however,  be  of  slow  growth.  Parents  who  do  not 
know  the  value  of  instruction  themselves,  except  of  a  very 
limited  kind,  cannot  be  expected  to  seek  it  very  earnestly 
for  their  children.  Some  generations  must  pass  before  it 
is  duly  estimated  and  earnestly  cultivated. 

George  is  a  rising  town,  with  a  jiopulation  of  about  1500, 
three  miles  from  Pacaltsdorp.  It  is  too  liberally  suj^plied 
with  "canteens," — houses  licensed  for  the  sale  of  ardent 
spirits.  Two  or  three  might  suffice,  but  the  revenue 
obtains  a  sinister  benefit  by  licensing  nine ;  and  the  morals 
of  the  people  are  trebly  depreciated. 

I  attended  an  Annual  Meeting  of  the  Branch  Bible 
Society  in  George.  It  was  held  in  the  large  Dutch  Church. 
The  addresses  were  partly  in  Dutch  and  partly  in  English. 
The  assembly  was  large — the  collection  moderate :  a 
criterion  rather  of  the  careful  habits,  than  the  wealth  of  the 
people.  The  smallest  coin  in  Her  Majesty's  realm  occu- 
pied a  prominent  place  in  the  contributions, — a  too  literal 
imitation  of  the  offerings  of  one  who  gave  her  two  mites, 
"which  make  one  farthing,"  but  who,  in  so  doing,  gene- 
rously and  nobly  "  east  in  all  that  she  had,  even  her 
whole  living." 

Besides  the  Dutch  Church,  there  is  here  a  small  Episco- 
palian community,  under  the  ministry  of  Rev.  J.  Welby ; 
a  coloured  congregation,  to  which  the  Society's  laborious 
Missionary,  Mr.  INIelville,  preaches  ;  and  a  limited,  though 
increasing  English  congregation  of  Nonconformists,  who 
have  lately  invited  the  Piev.  Wm.  Elliott  to  become  their 
pastor,  whose  long  experience  in  the  colony,  and  whose 


CRADOCK  MOUNTAINS.  35 

emineBt  attainments  as  a  scholar,  qualify  him  to  hold  a 
most  respectable  position  as  a  Christian  minister,  and 
promise  great  and  solid  advantages  to  any  congregation 
that  may  be  favoured  with  his  services,  and  capable  of 
appreciating  their  value. 

At  a  little  distance  from  George  is  the  Gradock  range  of 
mountains,  over  which  travellers  formerly  crossed  by  the 
difficult  and  dangerous  "  Cradock  Pass  ;"  from  the  formida- 
ble difficulties  of  which  passengers  are  now  relieved  by  the 
construction  of  the  "  Montagu  Pass,"  a  work  that  reflects 
great  honour  on  the  government,  the  engineer,  and  the 
surveyor. 

An  admirable  sketch  of  the  old  Pass  has  been  drawn  by 
Colonel  Mitchell,  having  perhaps  a  little  touch  of  the 
romantic  withal.  "  Road-boards"  and  road  improvements 
add  very  much  to  the  ease,  comfort,  and  safety  of  travel- 
ing, but  they  woefully  take  off  the  charms  of  the  pictur- 
esque, the  adventurous,  and  the  marvellous. 

The  Pass  or  Gate  Kamphoor,  on  the  way  to  Dyssels- 
dorp,  constitutes  one  of  the  boldest,  grandest,  wildest 
scenes  in  nature.  It  reminded  me  of  the  Trossacks,  near 
the  Lake  Katrine.  Everywhere  are  exhibited  the  effects 
of  the  most  fearful  convulsions  and  disturbances  of  our 
earth's  crust  in  some  former  period  of  its  geological  his- 
tory, and  such  as  almost  constrain  the  traveller  to  pause 
and  ask  himself,  amidst  his  astonishment,  whether  he  be 
still  really  an  inhabitant  of  this  planet,  or  has  not  been  con- 
veyed away  by  some  invisible  force  to  a  distant  planet. 

However,  having  pleasantly  survived  the  astonishment, 
and  got  through  the  Poort,  I  reached  the  Kamanassie 
Stream,  and  was  then  met  by  our  Missionary,  the  Eev.  W. 
Anderson,  son  of  our  venerable  friend  at  Pacaltsdorp. 
Mr.  Anderson  had  very  considerately  come  forward  from 
Dysselsdorp  to  meet  me  with  a  horse-car — an  agi^eeable 
change  from  a  tedious  ox-wagon — and  by  which  means  I 
was  able  to  reach  his  station  in  time  to  rest,  and  after- 
wards attend  a  public  evening  service.     In  fact,  we  pro- 


36  KAMANASSIE. 

ceeded  so  rapidly,  under  the  bold  hand  of  a  skilful  native 
driver,  and  over  roads  so  little  troubled  with  any  macadara- 
i/iug  process,  that  it  seemed,  ever  and  anon,  as  though 
eveiy  limb  and  bone  of  this  mortal  frame  would  part 
company,  imless  held  together  by  remarkably  tenacious 
ligaments,  and,  "  a  leathern  girdle  round  the  loins."  Many 
of  Mr.  Anderson's  friends  came  out  on  horseback  to  meet 
the  visitor,  for  several  miles  on  the  road.  The  Jehu  of  our 
car  kept  them  on  full  gallop  on  his  return. 

There  are  not  more  than  about  eighty  inhabitants  in 
the  village  itself.  !Many  hundreds  live  in  the  surrounding 
country  among  the  farmers,  and  identify  themselves  with 
this  Mission  Station,  so  that  on  Sundays  a  congregation 
is  usually  collected  of  from  300  to  500  persons.  The 
direct  influence  of  the  Missionary  extends  over  about 
1500  persons.  The  site  of  the  village  is  a  gentle  eleva- 
tion of  about  100  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Olifant  (Ele- 
phant) River.  It  commands  a  fine  view  over  a  very  exten- 
sive plain,  which  is  bounded  on  the  horizon  by  a  range 
of  lofty  hills,  including  some  highly  picturesque  scenery, 
rendered  all  the  more  striking  by  a  long  range  of  red-sand- 
stone hills,  that  have  suffered  by  convulsions  and  sub- 
sidencies,  leaving  a  jagged,  broken,  abiiipt  appearance  over 
the  whole  mass. 

I  was  much  gratified  here  by  the  spirit  and  manner  of 
the  people  at  public  service.  Nothing  could  be  more 
decorous.  All  seemed  attentive  and  in  earnest,  anxious 
to  understand  and  to  profit.  Simplicity,  sobriety,  and 
tnithfulness  appeared  to  characterise  them.  All  were 
comfoi'tably  attired,  none  gaudily.  The  singing  was  good, 
the  voices  melodious :  the  women's  exceedingly  clear, 
often  musical ;  and  the  men's  a  good  accompaniment  in 
bass.  They  made  collections  on  the  Sunday  which  I 
spent  thei'e,  towards  a  new  chapel  at  the  village  of  Ouds- 
hom.  The  contributions  were  of  course  quite  voluntary. 
And  they  did  the  thing  generously.  They  seemed  so  pleased 
with  the  effort  in  the  moi-ning,  that  they  begged  it  might 


MEETING  ON  THE  CONVICT  QUESTION.  37 

be  renewed  in  the  afternoon ;  and  they  came  prepared  the 
second  time,  and  contributed  altogether  about  ten  pounds. 
Tliey  promise  to  raise  about  illOO  per  annum,  as  an  Auxi- 
liary, towards  the  Missionary  Society.  They  acknowledge 
they  can  do  it  if  they  try,  and  that  they  ought  to  make  the 
effort.     There  is  much  in  having  a  willing  mind. 

On  the  Monday  morning  a  public  meeting  was  held  in 
relation  to  the  Convict  question,  which  the  people  suffi- 
ciently understood.  They  wished  to  express  their  desire 
that  the  convicts  of  England  should  not  be  sent  to  the 
Cape.  They  agreed  to  a  memorial  to  that  effect  to  the 
Government;  though  few  could  write,  nearly  500  signed 
with  the  faithful  sign  of  the  cross. 

On  leaving  the  village,  many  came  to  say  farewell, — 
wishing  me  a  "  safe  journey,"  expressing  the  hope  "that 
God  would  take  me  back  safely  ;"  "  compliments  to  all  their 
friends,"  and  "a  thousand  compliments  to  my  wife  and 
family."  Amidst  all  this,  one  could  not  help  the  reflection, 
how  effectually  Christianity  softens,  refines,  and  elevates  ! 
What  a  blessing  is  it  in  social  life,  transforming  the  selfish 
into  generous,  the  harsh  into  kind,  the  proud  into  humble, 
and  the  revengeful  into  pacific  and  forgiving  !  Domestic 
life  is  sanctified,  and  its  charms  augmented ;  manners 
become  bland  and  courteous  ;  the  very  countenance  bright- 
ens with  intelligence  ;  order  prevails  over  lawlessness,  and 
industry  succeeds  to  idleness  and  vice.  The  lands  smile, 
deserts  blossom  as  the  rose,  and  the  wildeniess  rejoices 
with  joy  and  singing.  "The  heavens  hear  the  earth,  the 
earth  hears  the  corn  and  wine  and  oil,  and  they  hear 
Jezreel." 

And  then,  that  new  place  of  worship  at  Oudshorn  shows 
how  much  may  be  effected  by  the  zeal  and  co-operation  of  a 
willing  people,  although  their  resources  be  exceedingly 
limited.  It  was  found  to  be  desirable  to  have  a  chapel  in 
that  locality  especially,  to  suit  the  convenience  of  many  of 
the  people  resident  there.  Mr.  Anderson  and  his  friends 
resolved  on  attempting  it.     A  slip  of  land  was  purchased. 


38  MINERAL  SPRINGS  AT  DYSSELSDORP. 

Part  of  it  was  rc-sold,  so  as  to  leave  just  enough  for  the  pur- 
jiose  required.  The  Missionary  with  his  own  hands  led 
the  way.  Example  is  more  impressive  and  effective  than 
precept  and  exhortation.  Clay  was  found  on  the  spot, 
and  73,000  hricks  were  made.  Mr.  Anderson  devoted  three 
days  a  week  for  six  weeks  to  the  task,  and  the  people 
gave  their  lahour.  The  chapel  will  be  worth  £500,  inclu- 
sive of  the  people's  unpaid,  but  voluntaiy  labour,  and  it 
will  accommodate  350  hearers.  I  recommend  its  being 
called  "  Anderson  Chapel." 

The  ground  here  is  impregnated  with  saltpetre.  The 
roads  are  often  covered  with  it,  in  fine  white  crystals,  so 
that  at  a  little  distance  one  might  fancy  there  had  been  a 
fall  of  snow. 

At  the  village  I  went  into  a  native  house  belong- 
ing to  one  of.  Mr.  Anderson's  congregation.  The  people 
had  most  kindly  j^repared  some  provisions.  The  family 
library  consisted  simply  of  the  Bible  and  a  hymn  book. 
There  is  a  sad  deficiency  through  the  colony  of  material 
for  mental  improvement  in  the  Dutch  language.  The 
people  who  can  read  have  little  besides  what  I  have  just 
named,  and  the  mind  remains  in  too  quiescent,  if  not 
stagnant  a  condition. 

There  are  some  valuable  mineral  springs  at  Dysselsdorp, 
that  may  some  day,  in  the  future  prospects  of  the  colony, 
render  the  village  as  important  as  Cheltenham  or  Bath  in 
the  mother  country.  These  springs  are  partly  sulphurous 
and  partly  chalybeate.  They  have  been  of  considerable 
ser\-ice  in  many  cases  of  contracted  joints,  arising  from 
rheumatic  fever,  by  no  means  unknown  in  this  part  of  the 
country.  It  is  a  merciful  arrangement  of  Providence  that 
an  antidote  exists  where  the  disease  prevails.  The  same 
economy  prevails,  perhaps,  evei'yTV'here  as  to  all  diseases ; 
and  the  principle  is  fomid  in  the  moral  as  well  as  the  phy- 
sical government  of  God.  There  is  a  remarkable  piece  of 
ground  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  springs,  about 
half  an  acre  in  extent,  and  two  feet  in  depth.     It  was  for- 


THE  CANGO  CAVEBNS. 


39 


merly  a  swamp  covered  with  reeds.  These  have  succes- 
sively perished  and  decomposed ;  the  soil  is  now  saturated 
and  blackened  with  the  gases  which  proceed  from  these 
mineral  springs. 

At  a  public  meeting  of  the  people  which  I  attended, 
chiefly  in  reference  to  the  temporal  affairs  of  the  Station, 
I  was  struck  with  some  very  shrewd  remarks  made  by  the 
natives  on  the  question  of  labour.  They  said  they  had 
been  found  fault  with,  as  a  body  of  labourers,  that  they 
were  deficient  in  industry,  and  that  Government  had 
instituted  an  inquiry  into  the  affair,  so  far  as  they  were 
concerned.  They  thought  it  might  be  now  equally  pro- 
per to  inquire  into  the  conduct  of  masters  towards  the 
labourers,  for  possibly  there  might  be  some  matters  of  just 
complaint  against  the  employers,  and  that  both  sides 
should  be  heard.  Wages,  they  said,  were  very  low.  Far- 
mers sometimes  broke  their  engagements,  and  the  people 
found  it  difficult  to  obtain  redress.  They  mentioned 
several  cases  of  hardship.  They  urged  too,  that,  after  all 
the  charges  brought  against  them,  it  was  some  proof  of 
their  industry,  that  all  the  agricultural  work  in  the  colony 
was  performed  by  them,  the  labourers  of  the  coloured 
class,  inasmuch  as  the  farmers  themselves  never  put  their 
hands  even  to  a  spade. 

Before  quitting  this  part  of  the  colony,  I  was  glad  to 
embrace  the  opportunity  of  paying  a  visit  to  the  famous 
Cango  Caverns,  in  the  district  of  George,  of  which  accounts 
have  been  published  by  Thompson  and  other  travellers. 
They  are  said,  by  those  who  have  seen  the  Caves  of  Elora 
and  Elephanta,  to  be  far  superior  to  them,  both  in  extent 
and  grandeur.  They  are  wholly  natural,  and  are  among 
the  stupendous  wonders  of  creation. 

The  road  along  which  we  had  to  proceed  forms  the 
"  Poort,"  or  "  Pass"  of  the  river  Grobbelaar  ;  it  is  a  gorge,  or 
defile,  between  two  ranges  of  lofty  and  precipitous  moun- 
tains. The  river  winds  most  coquettishly  along  the 
bottom ;    now  gentle,  placid,  and  inviting,  then   abruptly 


40  THE  CANGO  CAVERNS. 

clashing  aside,  frowning,  threatening,  and  conceahng  its 
course  amidst  tlie  dense  umbrage  of  the  jungle.  In  rainy 
seasons,  when  the  toiTcnts  are  immensely  swollen,  the 
stream  becomes  dangerous  and  impassable.  At  the  time 
of  my  visit  it  was  most  obligingly  shallow,  seldom  exceed- 
ing two  feet  in  depth.  With  due  caution  we  crossed  it, 
without  difficulty  or  accident.  But  from  its  extremely 
serpentine  course,  we  had  to  cross  it  thirty  times.  The 
scenery  is  magnificent.  The  convulsions  have  been  fear- 
ful. Many  of  the  rocks  are  thrown  up  perpendicularly. 
Many  are  broken  into  wild  and  awful  forms.  They  are  for 
the  most  part  covered  with  vegetation.  Along  the  course 
we  took,  the  principal  trees  are  mimosas,  with  their  long 
and  sharp  thorns ;  where  an  equestrian,  with  a  closely- 
buttoned  leather  jacket,  has  far  less  danger  of  inteiTup- 
tion  and  laceration  than  one  clad  in  the  flowing  costume 
of  an  oriental.  These  mimosas  are  interspersed  with 
thousands  of  beautiful  crimson  geraniums,  large  and 
splendid  plants  of  palma  Christi,  and  a  kind  of  strong- 
scented  lilac.  After  proceeding  about  five  miles  through 
the  George,  we  came  to  an  open  space,  and  presently 
reached  the  residence  of  Mr.  Botha,  a  farmer  who  has 
lately  purchased  the  property,  including  the  Caverns.  It 
was  advanced  in  the  afternoon  when  we  arrived,  and  the 
farmer  expressed  a  little  reluctance  at  our  going  in  so  late ; 
but  as  my  time  was  precious,  we  pressed  it,  and  having 
taken  a  cup  of  tea,  which  the  hostess  soon  provided,  we 
mounted  our  horses,  and  at  a  mile's  distance  came  to  the 
entrance  of  the  Caverns,  on  the  side  of  a  lofty  limestone 
mountain.  The  entrance  is  vast  and  imj^osing,  exceed- 
ingly lofty  and  spacious, — a  porch  befitting  these  subterra- 
nean and  "  crystal"  palaces.  A  fire  was  kindled,  and  we 
were  provided  with  long  bamboo  canes,  spiked,  not  with 
daggers,  but  with  candles.  On  entering  the  caverns,  we 
descended  into  a  dark  and  gloomy  passage,  implicitly 
following  our  guides,  whose  lighted  candles,  however,  were 
all  we  could  distinguish.     We  were  now  soon  arrested, 


THE  CANGO  CAVERNS.  41 

by  reaching  the  brink  of  a  yawning  precipice,  and  "dark- 
ness visible"  beyond  it.  Down  we  descended,  by  means  of 
a  ladder  placed  there  for  the  purpose,  and  which  is  drawn 
up  again  every  time  it  has  been  used.  With  due  precau- 
tion, holding  the  steps  of  the  ladder  with  one  hand,  and 
our  friendly  candle  with  the  other,  we  safely  reached  the 
lower  regions,  say  thirty  feet  from  the  top  of  the  descent ; 
and  we  then  commenced  our  subterranean  pilgrimage,  and 
proceeded  to  inspect  one  spacious  apartment  after  another, 
all  the  while  filled  with  awe,  wonder,  and  admiration. 
Many  of  the  rooms  are  very  lofty — thirty,  forty,  fifty,  sixty 
feet  high.  Their  extent  cannot  be  seen  at  one  view,  nor 
indeed  of  any  of  them,  unless,  perhaps,  an  immense  num- 
ber of  torches  were  placed  in  the  room  ;  even  then,  I 
suspect,  only  the  lights  would  be  seen  in  the  distance,  and 
not  the  objects  themselves.  Many  rooms  are  filled  with 
millions  of  stalactites,  descending  in  all  forms  from  the 
ceiling,  and  meeting  their  kindred  stalagma  on  the  ground. 
Many  of  them  retain  only  the  grandeur  of  their  forms : 
they  are  vast,  magnificent,  and  exceedingly  diversified. 
Others  retain  beauty,  as  well  as  colossal  dimensions,  con- 
sisting of  fluted  columns,  towering  to  amazing  heights,  and 
resembling,  at  some  distance,  immense  cathedral -organs. 
In  other  instances,  they  stand  like  primeval  trees,  such  as 
I  have  seen  in  the  quarries  of  Portland.  Some  of  the 
specimens  were  of  a  remarkably  white  and  glittering 
character,  and  some  perfectly  transparent.  Here  were 
niches,  columns,  cornices,  fretted-work  roofs  in  all  variety 
of  form  and  of  beauty,  far  beyond  verbal  description.  The 
detail  would  be  insufferably  tedious,  but  the  impression 
of  it  as  a  whole  is  most  effective.  You  feel  at  once  trans- 
ported into  a  region  where  you  stand  amidst  the  silent 
work  of  untold  ages,  perhaps  thousands  of  ages.  You 
have  nothing  in  nature  above  ground  to  compare  with  it, 
and  nothing  of  the  work  of  man  that  can  compete  with  it. 
The  process  of  crystallization  is  still  going  forward,  but 
not  in  all  places.     The  crystal  palace  advances,  though 


12  AVONTUUR. 

without  the  magic  hand  of  Paxtoii.  The  stalactite  is  still 
gradually  lorniing  in  innumerahle  places  ;  in  others  it  has 
ceased,  and  the  slow  progress  of  decay  and  disintegration 
is  going  forward.  It  seems  an  established  law,  that  it 
must  live  and  increase;  or  else,  in  becoming  quiescent  and 
stationary,  it  decays.  The  exterior  becomes  first  moist 
and  clammy,  then  the  ciystals  are  destroyed  ;  the  adhesion 
ceases,  and  they  crumble  to  poAvder.  One  room,  called 
the  "Sand-room,"  is  strewn  with  fine  sand — I  presume,  the 
decayed  ciystals  of  decomposed  stalactites.  Part  of  this  is 
beautifully  white,  and  part  beautifully  red ;  the  colour  of 
the  latter  occasioned,  no  doubt,  by  the  presence  of  iron, 
which  may  be  found  in  the  vicinity  of  the  limestone  rock, 
through  which  the  water  had  oozed,  carrying  an  oxide  in 
solution  with  the  lime. 

We  left  the  caverns  at  five  o'clock,  and  returned  to  the 
farmer's  residence,  where  we  again  found  a  cup  of  tea 
refreshing;  and  in  about  an  hoiu'  and  a  half  we  had  supper 
with  the  family,  and  shortly  after  retii'ed  to  rest ;  the  ultra 
sober  hour  of  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening  being  the  usual 
time  when  the  family  separate  for  the  night's  repose.  The 
good  woman  of  the  house  told  me  she  had  had  twenty-two 
children,  eight  of  whom  were  still  living.  Her  mother  had 
had  twenty-three.  The  population  of  the  colony  is  rather 
sparse,  but  at  this  rate  of  increase,  will  not  very  long  remain 
so.  We  returned  to  Dysselsdorp  next  day,  and  I  then 
started  for  our  next  Missionary  Station  at  Avontuur,  in  the 
Long  Kloof. 

Having  sent  my  wagon  forward  from  Dysselsdorp,  by 
spans  of  oxen  kindly  lent  by  the  people  there,  Mr.  Ander- 
son conveyed  me  in  a  horse-car  to  Avontuur  (Adventure), 
still  in  the  district  of  George.  The  distance  is  about 
seventy-five  miles.  We  travelled  along  the  Kamanassie 
Hoogte,  or  "heights."  The  descent  to  the  stream  of  that 
name  is  steep  and  difficult,  and  the  opposite  ascent  of  the 
same  character. 

The  Mission   Station   of  Avontuur,  under  the  care  of 


NEW  CHAPEL  AT  AVONTUUR.  43 

Eev.  W.  Hood,  has  many  encouraging  features.  It  com- 
menced "  as  a  day  of  small  things."  Mr.  Hood's  first  con- 
gregation amounted  to  six  persons.  That  was  on  a  week- 
day evening.  On  the  Sunday  there  was  a  larger  attend- 
ance. A  Dutch  farmer  in  the  neighbourhood  offered  Mr. 
Hood  the  use  of  a  dwelling-house,  with  land  for  gTazing 
cattle  and  raising  corn  sufficient  for  the  use  of  his  family, 
if  he  would  settle  there  as  the  Missionary.  He  did  so, 
and  there  are  now  both  good  congregations  and  useful 
schools.  The  Missionary  Society  has  no  land  here  of  its 
own,  nor  do  the  people  hold  any  by  grant  from  the 
Government.  The  farmer  already  referred  to  offered 
portions  of  land,  on  easy  terms,  to  the  people.  Many 
native  families  accepted  the  offer,  and  are  now  residents, 
and  in  circumstances  of  comparative  comfort.  None  of 
tliem  were  here  when  Mr.  Hood  arrived.  They  have  felt 
induced  to  settle  in  the  locality  by  the  advantages  afforded 
them,  by  the  easy  terms  on  which  they  occupy  the  land, 
and  by  the  religious  privileges  placed  within  their  reach. 
The  plan  deserves  to  be  imitated  by  others.  It  is  politic, 
as  well  as  benevolent.  It  has  brought  labour  within  reach 
of  the  farmer,  when  he  needs  it,  and  it  has  suited  the  wants 
of  the  people.  Part  of  the  dwelling-house  has  hitherto 
sensed  as  a  chapel ;  but  a  more  commodious  and  sub- 
stantial place  is  now  in  course  of  erection.  The  people 
build  it  at  their  own  cost.  Its  dimensions  are  fifty-five 
feet  by  twenty-five,  and  it  is  constructed  of  stone  to  the 
lintels  of  the  doors,  and  the  rest  of  brick,  made  of  the  clay 
found  on  the  spot.  With  a  front  gallery  for  children,  it 
will  accommodate  about  four  hundred.  The  people  come 
in  for  worship  on  the  Sunday  from  several  miles'  distance. 
About  seven  hundred  altogether  thus  fall  under  the  in- 
fluence of  the  Missionary,  who,  possessing  also  some 
knowledge  of  medicine,  becomes  their  physician  amidst 
their  bodily  ailments,  as  well  as  their  si)iritual  pastor,  hav- 
ing the  "  cure  of  souls."  It  is  desirable  that  all  Missionaries 
for  Africa  should  be  couiiietent  to  exercise  the  medical  art. 


14  GENOTE,  THE  KAFFIR. 

The  Sunday  which  T  spent  at  this  station  I  shall  long 
ivniomhor.  The  attendance  was  good  ;  the  interest  and 
attention  of  the  people  very  gratifying.  Besides  morn- 
ing and  evening  senices,  we  held  a  Missionary  meeting 
in  the  afternoon,  and  gave  the  people  details  of  the  pro- 
gress of  the  gospel  in  vai'ious  parts  of  the  world,  to 
which  they  listened  with  cordiality  and  benevolence. 
Tliankful  for  the  advantages  which  they  themselves  en- 
joyed, they  were  eai'nestly  desirous  that  the  whole  family 
of  man  might  enjoy  them  too.  And  this  is  just  what 
might  be  expected.  The  benevolence  of  Christianity  is 
wonderfully  efficacious  in  counteracting  the  natural  selfish- 
ness of  the  human  heart,  and  expanding  its  purest  and 
best  affections. 

There  resides  at  Avontuur  a  native,  a  Kaffir  of  the 
Gaika  tribe,  of  the  name  of  Genote,  whose  history  illus- 
trates the  value  of  ^Missions,  and  the  power  of  Divine 
truth.  Several  years  ago  he  went  with  some  companions, 
out  of  sheer  curiosity,  to  see  the  Missionary,  Williams, 
then  of  Kaffirland.  They  had  heard  of  him,  but  knew  not 
what  was  meant  by  the  designation.  Much  to  their  sur- 
prise, they  found  him  a  human  being,  but  of  a  different 
colour,  dress,  and  language  to  their  own.  Zwart  Booy,  as 
Genote  was  usually  called,  remembered  nuich  that  was 
said,  and  could  not  divest  himself  of  the  exhortation  "  to 
flee,  for  there  was  danger."  The  IMissionary  had  no  doubt 
lieen  urging  the  same  ti"uth  that  John  the  Baptist  did  in 
the  wilderness  of  Judffia ;  but  the  Kaffir  knew  of  no  dan- 
ger except  that  of  being  Avounded  or  killed  in  war.  He 
was  on  the  spot  when  Williams  the  Missionaiy  sickened 
and  died,  and  he  w'as  emjiloyed  to  cany  a  letter  on  the 
subject  to  Mr.  Hart,  of  Somerset.  Just  then  there  was  a 
prospect  of  war,  and  he  made  up  his  mind  to  leave  Kaffir- 
land  and  enter  the  colony.  He  hired  himself  to  a  farmer, 
and  was  much  prized  for  his  fidelity  and  honesty.  He 
afterwards  settled  nearer  to  Avontuur,  from  which  the 
faiTuer's   residence   was   separated   only   by   a   steep  and 


GENOTE,  THE  KAFFIR.  45 

rugged  mountain.  He  and  the  Missionary  met  occasion- 
ally. After  having  been  observed  at  the  chapel  on  a 
Sunday,  a  friend  brought  him  in  the  course  of  a  day  or 
two  to  Mr.  Hood,  and  said,  "  Have  the  kindness  to  speak 
to  this  old  man ;  he  has  been  restless  and  sleepless  these 
two  nights."  On  being  asked  to  sit  dov^m,  and  open  his 
mind,  he  confessed  that  he  felt  an  impression  of  danger — 
danger  he  could  not  understand  nor  describe,  and  he  Avas 
distressed;  he  felt  as  though  he  had  committed  some 
grave  offence,  and  was  about  to  be  punished.  "VMien  asked 
what  he  thought  might  be  the  cause  of  this  uneasiness, 
"  Oh!"  said  he,  "my  sins,  my  sins  !  The  immensity  of  my 
sin  makes  my  heart  as  hea%^  as  a  mountain  of  lead !  I 
I  have  no  knowledge,  no  wisdom.  I  know  not  what  to  do. 
Tell  me,  therefore,  what  to  do."  The  Missionary  spoke  of 
God,  and  found  he  had  a  tolerably  clear  perception  of  Him 
as  Creator  and  Preserver;  "but,"  said  the  man,  "I  want 
something  more.  I  cannot  be  satisfied — I  cannot  rest. 
Tell  me  what  it  is."  The  heart  thus  prepared  for  the 
truth,  the  Missionary  unfolded  to  him  the  words  of  life 
and  the  wonders  of  redeeming  mercy.  The  Kaffir  told 
him  what  a  change  he  had  felt  in  his  heart.  "  Some  time 
since,"  said  he,  "  a  child  of  mine  died ;  I  became  frantic, 
and  should  have  destroyed  myself,  had  I  not  been  re- 
strained by  force.  A  month  ago,  another  of  my  children 
sickened,  and  I  said  in  my  heart,  '  The  great  God  who  gave 
him  to  me,  has  a  right  to  take  him  from  me ;  let  him  do 
his  pleasure.'  I  loved  my  child ;  it  was  a  hard  struggle, 
but  I  gave  him  back  to  God.  When  the  child  was  dying, 
my  friends  came  in  to  Aveep  and  to  lament  with  me.  I  put 
them  out  of  the  room,  for  I  thought  I  should  lament  too, 
and  then  wish  to  hold  him  back ;  and  how  could  I,  after  I 
had  resigned  him  to  God  ?  My  child  died,  and  I  was  still 
and  silent.  Now,  who  could  have  made  me  feel  so,"  asked 
the  Kaffir,  "  but  the  great  God  ?  What  can  I  do  to  serve 
him?"  He  listened  with  breathless  anxiety  while  the 
Missionary  explained   to    him   the   grace  of  the  Saviour. 


46  GENOTE,  THE  K.\IFIR. 

He  partly  comprehended  the  matter ;  light  was  breaking 
in.  "  Tell  me  again,"  said  he,  "for  I  am  old  and  stupid." 
His  eyes  were  fixed ;  tears  streamed  dowTi  his  sable 
cheeks  ;  and  his  tall  and  noble  figure  trembled  with  men- 
tal agitation ;  and  as  soon  as  he  could  find  utterance  for 
Avords,  he  expressed  his  astonishment  at  the  mercy  and 
condescension  of  God.  These  interviews  were  repeated, 
and  at  length  he  expressed  the  wish  to  come  and  live  on 
the  spot.  He  endeavoured  to  arrange  this  with  some  of 
the  people ;  but  as  he  had  some  cattle,  there  was  difficulty 
in  the  way",  the  land  which  they  occupied  being  already  as 
full  as  the  pasturage  w^ould  permit.  Naming  this  to  Mr. 
Hood,  he  said,  "  I  am  a  Kaffir,  and  I  am  fond  of  my  cattle  ; 
hut  I  7/  get  rid  of  the  last  of  them,  if  I  cannot  othenvise  come 
to  reside  here  to  hear  the  word."*  As  the  Missionary  was 
needing  a  shepherd,  he  proposed  to  him  to  come  and  tend 
the  herd,  and  that  he  might  gi'aze  his  cattle  with  them ; 
and  he  should  have  a  monthly  papiient  for  his  services. 
Genote  was  silent  a  few  minutes,  and  then  said,  "  That  is 
not  your  plan ;  it  is,"  srid  he,  pointing  upwards,  "it  is  He 
who  has  put  it  into  your  heart."  He  aceoi'dingly  arranged 
to  come  and  to  bring  his  wife  and  little  stock  of  moveable 
property.  The  farmer  with  whom  he  lived  was  unwilling 
to  part  Avith  him.  "  ^Miat  j^ossesses  you  ?"  said  the 
faiTner;  "you  are  not  far  from  the  church — you  can  go 
there  as  often  as  you  like.  I  never  hinder  you."  "  Tiiie," 
said  the  man,  "  but  the  mountain  on  the  road  is  steep, 
and  I  am  old  and  weak.  Besides,  you  count  all  the  days 
I  am  absent,  and.  deduct  them  from  my  wages."  "  But 
why  should  you  go  so  often?  I  do  not,"  replied  the 
fanner.  "Ay,"  said  the  Kaffir,  "but  you  have  a  great 
Bible  lying  in  the  window,  which  I  hope  you  read  eveiy 
day.  I  cannot  read,  so  that  all  I  obtain  must  come  in  at 
the  ear,  and  I  must  live  near  the  man  that  can  tell  me 

*  "The  kingdom  of  heaven  is  like  a  man  who,  when  he  hath  found 
one  pearl  of  great  price,  goeth  and  selleth  all  that  he  hath,  that  he 
may  obtain  possession  of  it." 


KRUIS  FONTEIN  AND  HANKEY.  4.7 

every  day."  "But  why  not,  then,  do  as  we  do?"  said  the 
farmer.  "  We  invite  the  minister  to  one  of  our  places,  and 
then  we  meet  together  to  hear."  "I  m  afraid,"  said  the 
poor  man,  "  little  good  comes  of  that ;  hesides,  we  have 
no  places  to  invite  our  minister  to,  and  you  know  you 
Avould  not  give  him  your  place ;    and  so,  I  mean  to  go  !" 

And  go  he  did ;  and  came  to  Avontuur,  and  resides 
there  still ;  conducts  himself  in  a  ti'uly  exemplary  man- 
ner, and  lives  in  the  good-will  and  confidence  of  all  around 
him.  He  has  been  baptized,  is  a  member  of  the  church, 
is  earnest  in  prayer,  and  diligently  exhorts  others  to  seek 
the  peace  which  he  has  obtained  through  faith  on  the  Son 
of  God. 

Genote  often  prays  in  public ;  he  did  so  the  Sunday  I 
was  there.  He  began  in  Dutch,  but  as  his  heart  warmed, 
he  gradually  and  naturally  fell  into  the  Kaffir,  with  which 
he  was  more  familiar,  and  the  people  felt  that  there  was 
the  earnestness  of  devout  scpplication  and  thanksgiving, 
even  though  they  (familiar  only  with  Dutch)  could  but  im- 
perfectly comprehend  all  the.  words  he  employed. 

The  wife  of  Genote,  now  generally  called  Samuel,  the 
name  he  chose  on  his  baptism,  is  a  sister  of  Makomo,  of 
whom  so  much  has  occurred  in  the  late  conflicts  between 
the  Colony  and  the  Kaffirs.  Her  long  absence  from  her 
own  country  is  making  her  forgetful  of  her  native  lan- 
guage, and  yet,  most  inconveniently,  she  has  great  diffi- 
culty in  acquiring  the  Dutch,  and  still  more  in  getting  the 
English,  which  is  but  occasionally  used  there.  A  veiy  fatal 
confusion  of  languages  in  her  case,  certainly  ! 

I  next  proceeded  to  ''  KruisFontein" — Cross  Fountatn — 
and  Hankey.  The  former  is  a  Missionary  out-station  to 
the  latter.  The  property  was  pifrchased  by  the  late  Wil- 
liams, Missionaiyin  Kaffirland,  to  form  a  native  village  for 
Hottentots,  the  emancipated  classes  and  others,  who  might 
be  willing  to  pay  a  small  rental  sufficient  to  cover  the  in- 
terest of  the  purchase,  and  who  might  then  receive  instruc- 
tion and  religious  sei-vices.     The  Missionary  Society  now 


48  KRIUS  FOXTEIN  AND  HAXKET. 

holds  the  property,  and  the  Station  itself  enjoys  consider- 
able pi'osperity.  The  people  who  attended  service  while  I 
was  there,  had  an  air  of  comfort,  intelligence,  and  inde- 
pendence about  them,  that  pleased  me  much.  There  is  a 
plain  building  that  serves  for  a  chapel,  and  accommodates 
about  '2b0  people.  Another  building  is  used  for  an  infant 
school,  in  which  about  thirty-five  children  attend.  Mr. 
Clarke,  formerly  fellow-labourer  with  Mr.  Kolbe,  among 
tlie  Bushmen,  resides  here  as  School-master  and  Assistant- 
Missionaiy.  He  has  spent  many  years  in  Africa.  Eev. 
T.  D.  Philip  acts  as  pastor,  and  comes  over  from  Hankey 
to  visit  the  people  and  administer  the  ordinances  of  reli- 
gion once  a  month. 

This  Station  further  illustrates,  to  my  mind,  the  im- 
portance of  encom-aging  the  natives  to  become  landholders 
in  some  form,  even  on  a  small  scale.  They  feel  them- 
selves more  independent,  and  it  awakens  their  industiy 
to  maintain  their  position  ;  and  with  an  interest  in  the 
soil,  they  Avill  be  neither  vagi'ants  nor  rebels. 


CHAPTER     III. 


A  NATIVE  MINISTRY EUROPEAN  AID  REQUISITE HANKEY    INSTITUTION, 

INUNDATION  MACHPELAH  AFFECTING       ANECDOTE  TUNNEL 

CHART FERTILITY^  A  THOUSANDFOLD NATIVE  CAPACITIES EDU- 
CATION  MAPS  WANTED PUBLIC  MEETING NEW  CHAPEL,  CHURCH- 
MEMBERS  AND  RULES  OF  CHURCH-FELLOWSHIP PORT  ELIZABETH 

FINGOES — BETHELSDORP SALT     PAN THOMAS      PRINGLE NATIVE 

RACES FEARS    AND     HOPES CONTRIBUTIONS  — UITENHAGE TEA 

PARTY THEOPOLIS SUFFERINGS    FROM    WAR,    1847 GRAHAM's 

TOWN,  CHAPELS HOTTENTOT    CORP     OF     CAPE     MOUNTED    RIFLES 

CANTEENS. 

The  great  desideratum  in  all  Christian  Missions,  next 
to  the  conversion  of  men  to  the  Christian  faith  itself,  is 
the  preparation  of  a  Native  Ministry.  By  that  means  alone 
can  the  great  command  of  the  Saviom'  be  literally  obeyed, 
"  to  preach  the  gospel  to  every  creature."  Foreign  Mis- 
sionaries can  never  be  sustained  by  the  churches  from 
whence  they  are  sent  forth,  in  adequate  numbers  to  ac- 
complish the  purpose.  They  might,  indeed,  make  the  tour 
of  heathen  countries,  and  just  "announce"  in  all  the  prin- 
cipal towns,  and  perhaps  the  villages  too,  of  heathendom, 
"  the  glad  tidings  of  great  joy."  But  this  would  be  a  mea- 
siire  most  cursory,  most  superficial,  and  most  unsatisfac- 
toiy.  The  history  of  Providence  does  not  justify  the  hope 
that  any  great  good  should  accrue  from  such  a  scheme  ;  it 
is  not  in  the  nature  of  the  case  that  any  could  reasonably 
be  anticipated.  There  needs  the  reiterated  exposition 
of  Divine  truth — "  the  line  upon  line,  and  precept  upon 

E 


50  A  NATIVE  MINISTRY. 

precept."  There  needs  the  stated  and  continuous  employ- 
ment of  wisely-adapted  means,  in  the  same  localities  ;  and, 
usually,  it  is  even  then  only  after  a  considerable  period 
has  elapsed  that  attention  is  aroused,  inquiry  awakened, 
prejudices  neutralized,  and  the  great  change  accomplished 
in  which  old  things  pass  away  and  all  things  become  new. 

To  provide  this  permanent  agency  for  the  ministry  of 
the  gospel  throughout  the  world,  is  the  object  of  the  most 
anxious  solicitude  on  the  part  of  all  the  intelligent  friends 
and  supporters  of  Christian  Missions.  They  seek  to 
gather,  in  the  first  instance,  converts  into  the  fold  of 
Chi'ist,  and  then  from  those  converts  to  select  and  train 
men  who  shall  be  competent  "to  teach  others  also."  The 
history  of  Christian  Missions  for  the  past  fifty  years 
demonstrates  the  wisdom  and  necessity  of  the  measure  ; 
its  wisdom,  because  where  tried  it  is  found  effectual ;  its 
necessity,  because  the  existing  pecuniary  contributions 
of  foreign  churches  do  not  accomplish  very  much  beyond 
that  of  sustaining  their  present  European  agency,  and  that 
is  not  advancing  to  any  great  extent,  or  in  any  rapid  man- 
ner, on  the  remaining  regions  of  heathenism. 

The  employment  of  native  agency  is  coeval  with  the 
histoiy  of  Christianity.  The  apostles  gave  instruction  as 
to  the  ordination  of  men  to  be  the  ministers  in  the  several 
states  and  towns  which  they  had  visited,  and  where  they 
had  planted  Christianity.  Corinth  had  its  o\\ti  "teachers,' 
"helps,  and  workers  of  miracles:"  from  among  the  Thessa- 
lonians  "sounded  out  the  word  of  the  Lord  through  Mace 
donia  and  Achaia  ;"  and  the  seven  churches  of  Asia  had 
respectively  their  own  presiding  ministers. 

Modem  Missionary  Societies  have  all  proceeded  on  the 
same  principle,  to  some  extent.  They  have  successfully 
employed  native  teachers  and  evangelists  in  a  subordinate 
capacity  ;  and  in  a  few  instances  they  have  been  ordained 
as  pastors  of  native  Christian  communities.  And  this  is 
the  consummation  to  be  kept  in  view.  Eveiy  measure  up 
to   that  point  must  be  regarded  as  only  subsidiary  and 


EUROPEAN  AID  NECESSARY.  51 

preparatory.  The  most  efficient  and  successful  Missionary, 
therefore,  is  not  the  man  who  may  have  his  three  hundred, 
five  hundred,  or  a  thousand  converts  around  him  as  a 
flourishing  Christian  community,  but  the  man  who,  from 
amidst  his  converts  can  find  and  train  "  men  for  the  work 
of  the  ministry  and  the  edifying  of  the  body  of  Christ." 

These  native  churches  and  pastors  may  still  require  the 
aid  and  counsel  of  the  more  experienced  and  better- 
instructed  European  Missionary ;  and  whatever  arrange- 
ments are  made  for  providing  native  churches  with  native 
ministers,  the  foreign  aid  found  requisite  for  their  stability 
and  progress  must  for  the  time  be  furnished.  That,  how 
ever,  merely  leaves  the  question  of  their  entire  inde- 
pendence to  be  a  question  of  time.  The  principle  itself  is 
fairly  involved.  There  may  be  an  excess  of  cautious  soli- 
citude in  preparing  native  churches  for  this  measure. 
We  must  stand  prepared  for  some  defects,  irregularities, 
and  failures  in  the  system  ;  but  to  postpone  the  adoption 
of  it  till  there  is  almost  a  demonstration  that  it  will  work 
without  any  danger,  is  to  expect  a  result  without  the  pre- 
vious process  :  it  is  equivalent  to  expecting  men  to  be 
proficient  in  an  art  without  ever  exercising  it — a  Eaphael, 
without  having  touched  a  pencil. 

Imj)ressed  wdth  views  of  this  nature,  the  London  Mis- 
sionary Society  has  for  a  long  time  directed  its  attention 
to  Theological  Seminaries,  and  has  established  them  in 
British  India,  China,  the  South  Sea  Islands,  and  Africa. 
The  Institution  at  Hankey  has  been  arranged  for  the  same 
purpose,  and  it  is  confidently  hoped  it  may  render  essen- 
tial service.  Its  locality  is  favourable.  Its  advantages  are 
many,  and  the  Missionaries  stationed  there  are  eminently 
qualified  for  the  office  of  instructors.  As  yet,  not  many 
natives  have  availed  themselves  of  these  advantages.  A 
few  have,  and  also  the  sons  of  Missionaries  in  the  colony 
— a  class  from  which  the  Society  has  engaged  the  services 
of  some  valuable  and  efficient  men.  The  present  un- 
settled state  of  the  colony,  owing  to  the  new  Kaffir  War,  is 


52  IIANKEY. — INUNDATION. 

altogether  unfavourable  to  these  objects.  The  attention 
is  diverted  to  other  things.  Bad  passions  are  awakened  ; 
families  are  scattered  ;  young  men  of  promise  are  drawn 
off  for  a  militia — evil  communications  corrupt  their  man- 
ners ;  and  a  scene  that  might  have  bloomed  like  Eden,  is 
smitten,  withered,  and  ruined. 

Hankey  is  about  eighteen  miles  from  Kruis  Fontein, 
and  it  is  then  sixty-five  miles  further  to  Port  Elizabeth. 
The  road  is  difficult,  but  the  scenery,  which  is  pleasing, 
begins  to  improve  soon  after  leaving  Ivruis  Fontein  ;  and 
for  some  miles  before  reaching  the  lands  of  the  Institu- 
tion at  Hankey,  there  is  much  to  gratify.  On  the  right,  ^t 
the  distance  of  twenty  or  twenty-five  miles,  may  be  seen 
the  white  sandy  beach  near  St.  Francis  Bay,  and  on  the 
left  the  Kouga  Hills,  a  spur  of  a  great  line  of  mountains 
running  east  and  west  of  this  part  of  South  Africa.  The 
"  Cock's  Comb,"  seen  on  the  road  to  Hankey,  is  about  six 
or  seven  thousand  feet  high,  and  is  one  of  the  highest 
points  in  the  range.  The  lands  of  the  Institution,  as  we 
advance  towards  the  village,  are  rich  in  botany.  The  low 
lands  are  allmial,  and  the  soil  is  rich,  and  is  covered  with 
various  kinds  of  bushes,  with  the  graceful  mimosas,  splen- 
did proteas  and  euphorbias,  geraniums,  aloes,  Cape 
olives,  &c. 

The  spot  where  the  desolating  inundation  of  October, 
1847,  occmi-ed,  is  marked  by  its  deposit  of  white  sand, 
over  which,  however,  vegetation  is  beginning  to  appear. 
On  the  higher  ground,  to  wdiich  the  waters  did  not  ascend, 
may  be  seen  the  new  village  rising,  and  the  Mission  pre- 
mises, wdiich  stood  there  previously,  constituting  the  most 
prominent  object.  There  is  a  cheerfulness  about  the 
whole  scene.  The  neatly-built  and  whitewashed  cottages 
exliibit  indications  of  advancing  ciAdlization,  comfort,  and 
prosperity.  The  chapel  stands  on  a  summit  opposite  to 
the  eminence  on  which  the  Mission-house  is  built,  and  a 
small  stream, — "  Klein  River," — with  its  rustic  bridge,  runs 
between  the  two  elevations.     The  view  from  the  Mission 


MACHPELAU.  53 

premises  is  extensive,  bold,  rich,  and  varied.  The  gardens 
of  the  people  cannot  be  made  contiguous  to  their  cottages, 
which  are  built  on  high  ground,  but  they  are  laid  out  in  a 
suitable  spot,  at  a  moderate  distance  ;  and  even  in  the  dry 
season  they  look  well.  There  is  a  knoll  at  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  Mission  premises,  and  which  is  well 
wooded.  It  has  some  splendid  specimens  of  the  yellow- 
wood  tree — a  sj)ecies  of  yew.  It  is  appropriated  as  a 
burial-place  for  the  deceased  members  of  the  Institution. 
The  ashes  of  Mrs.  Philip,  and  her  son,  the  Eev.  William 
Philip,  and  her  grandchild,  son  of  John  Fairbairn,  Esq., 
repose  calmly  there.  It  is  the  "  Machpelah "  of  Dr. 
Philips'  family,  and  shall  give  forth  its  tenants,  on  the 
morning  of  the  resurrection,  arrayed  in  beauty  and  im- 
mortality. 

Limestone  is  found  on  the  lands  of  the  Institution. 
There  is  a  kiln  belonging  to  a  native,  and  I  found  him 
busily  pursuing  his  occupation — and  no  mean  sight, — a 
Hottentot  preparing  lime  for  the  lands  of  the  farmers. 
His  wagon  stood  by,  on  which  he  had  brought  the  stone 
from  the  quarry:  he  and  another  man  were  breaking  it 
into  small  lumps,  feeding  the  kiln,  and  heaping  on  the 
wood.  The  farmers  purchase  the  lime  as  manure,  and 
the  man  maintains  his  family  in  comfort. 

I  accompanied  the  Rev.  T.  D.  Philip  to  see  the  "  tunnel," 
for  the  repairs  of  which,  after  the  inundation,  an  appeal 
was  made  to  friends  in  England  in  April,  1848.  That 
inundation  was  occasioned  by  the  fall  of  heavy  torrents  of 
rain,  about  a  week  previously,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
sources  of  the  "  Gamtoos,"  and  by  which  it  became  sud- 
denly and  fearfully  enlarged.  At  Hankey,  it  rose  from 
thirty  to  forty  feet  above  its  ordinary  level.  It  proved 
fatal  to  thirteen  of  the  people,*  and  destroyed  much  pro- 

*  An  affecting  account  of  these  circumstances  was  published  in 
the  "Missionary  Chronicle"  of  April,  1848.  A  Christian  Hottentot 
who  escaped,  relates  that  he  and  fifteen  others  (six  women  and  ten 
men),  perceiving  their  danger,  rushed  to  a  spot  of  rising  ground,  and 


54  AFFECTING  ANECDOTK. 

perty.  Great  injury  was  done  to  the  tunnel.  A  vast  mass 
of  the  superincumbent  rock  fell  in,  having  been  under- 
mined by  the  swollen  river.  The  face  of  the  rock  was 
left  bare  some  sixty  or  eighty  feet.  About  5000  cubic 
yards  of  matter  fell  in.  The  people,  however,  did  not 
despond.  Aided  by  prompt  and  libex'al  contributions,  they 
began  the  necessary  repairs,  and  within  a  year  and  a  day 
of  the  calamity  they  were  completed,  and  the  tunnel 
re -opened. 

The   accompanying  Chart  of  Hankey  will   convey   an 

there  "  stood  speechless,  looking  at  one  another  ;  the  -water  rose  above 
their  waists.  Lucas,"  said  he,  "never  spoke  another  word,  but  I 
never  allowed  my  heart  to  fail  me.  I  bovmd  up  a  mat  for  my  wife, 
and  told  her  to  keep  it  across  her  chest,  and  she  would  be  able  to 
keep  her  head  above  water  till  help  came.  I  then  took  up  my  mother, 
and  held  her  in  my  arms  till  I  could  hold  her  no  longer.  She  was 
the  first  carried  away.  Then  Lucas  diifted  from  us,  and  sunk  at 
once.  My  wife  had  drifted  away  whUe  I  was  holding  my  mother  up, 
and  she  got  the  mat  under  one  arm  instead  of  across  her  chest,  so 
that  she  was  turned  over  and  over  -with  it,  tUl  she  was  carried  out  of 
my  sight  among  the  thorn-trees.  The  boy,  Carl  Baan,  went  to  the 
three  Smits,  fi-om  one  to  another,  now  holding  liis  mother  up  as  he 
saw  her  suikiiig,  then  his  little  sister,  till  they  all  sunk.  I  saw  a  roof 
floating  towards  me,  and  resolved  to  try  to  reach  it ;  I  did — Sarah 
and  Carl  Baan  were  following  not  far  off.  I  drew  a  lath  out  of  the 
roof,  Carl  grasped  it,  and  I  drew  him  up  on  the  roof.  Sarah  called 
out  '  Help  me,  dear  uncle !'  She  was  just  suiking  a  second  time,  when 
I  placed  the  lath  so  that  she  seized  it  with  her  finger  and  thumb,  and 
I  pulled  her  also  on  the  roof. 

"  At  this  time,  Lydia,  old  Lucas's  ■v\-ife,  was  floating  on  a  mat,  about 
thirty  yards  from  me.  She  now  commenced  singing  the  hymn, 
'  Jezus  neemt  de  zondaars  aan.'  ('  Jesus  receiveth  sinners.')  And  when 
she  had  sung  it  through,  exclaiming,  'O  great  God!'  she  laid  her 
head  do^-n  upon  the  mat,  as  upon  a  piJlow,  and  simk. 

"The  time  passed  by  very  heavily,  but  in  the  evening  I  heard,  in 
answer  to  one  of  oui-  cries,  '  Yes,  help  is  now  on  the  way  to  you.'  I 
thought,  as  I  sat  upon  the  roof,  of  Noah  in  the  Ark,  but  felt  it  was 
not  because  I  was  a  righteous  man  like  Noah,  that  God  had  saved 
me.  I  wondered  why  I  had  been  saved,  and  others,  better  than  my- 
self, allowed  to  perish.     I  wept  with  excitement  at  my  deUverance." 


TUNNEL  CHART. 


55 


accurate  idea  of 
the  extent  of  the 
inundation, and 
the  position  of 
Hankey  in  re- 
lation to  the 
Klein  and  Gam- 
toos  rivers. 

The  tunnel 
is  a  large  exca- 
vation through 
a  rock  of  con- 
glomerate, of 
an  exceedingly 
hard  and  solid 
texture.  It  is 
about  two  hun- 
dred and  sixty 
yards  in  length, 
and  from  three 
to  six  feet  in 
width.  The 

height  is  about 
five  or  six 
feet  nearly  all 
through, though 
in  ?i  few  places 
it  does  not  ex- 
ceed four.  The 
opening  into 
the   tunnel    on 

The  dark  portion  of  the  Chart  indicates  the  space  on  which  tlie 
flood  extended,  and  the  figures  chiefly  denote  the  various  buildings 
which  were  either  surrounded  or  ovcrtlu-own  by  the  accumulated 
waters.  Fig.  1  marks  the  position  of  the  Mission-house.  2.  The 
Chapek  3,  4,  5,  6.  Houses  of  the  peopk\  8.  The  tunnek  9.  Fingoe 
and  Hottentot  huts.  10.  The  spot  where  the  sixteen  persons  already 
mentioned  stood  for  several  hours,  and  of  whom  three  only  were 
finally  saved. 


66  FERTILITY,  A  THOUSANDFOLD. 

tlie  side  of  the  river  is  within  a  few  feet  of  the  main 
current.  The  Gamtoos  is  a  river  of  considerable  mag- 
nitude, and  winds  between  the  hills  in  the  vicinity  of 
tlie  Institvition.  It  has  a  sufficient  fall  to  admit  of 
the  in'igation  of  the  lands  at  Hankey  to  a  large  ex- 
tent, simply  by  means  of  this  tunnel,  and  then  still 
further  by  carrying  the  water,  by  a  suspended  aqueduct, 
over  a  lower  jjart  in  the  bend  of  the  river  itself.  There  is  a 
fall  of  above  forty  feet  from  the  place  where  the  tunnel 
leads  the  water  out,  to  the  spot  where  it  again  falls  into  the 
stream.  Some  strong  stone  and  brick  breastworks  are 
being  made  at  the  mouth  of  the  tunnel,  to  prevent  its  being 
washed  away  in  case  of  the  recurrence  of  a  flood  ;  and  for 
a  considerable  depth  the  tunnel  itself  is  now  arched  over. 
by  strong  timbers  that  do  not  decay  in  water.  The  upper 
portion  of  the  rock  consists  of  an  immense  layer  of  hard 
and  fine-grained  sandstone,  out  of  which  blocks  are  taken 
and  rolled  do's\Ti  the  hill  to  form  the  breastwork  at  its  base, 
around  the  sides  of  the  entrance  to  the  tunnel. 

From  the  comparative  level  of  the  river  and  the  tunnel, 
there  would  seem  to  be  little  difficulty  in  leading  out,  as 
Mr.  W.  Philip,  who  designed  the  work,  remarked,  the  whole 
of  the  river,  so  as  to  irrigate  a  very  large  piece  of  the  country. 

The  bed  of  the  river  is  now  comparatively  small,  but  the 
appearance  of  the  country  indicates  that  there  must  once 
have  been  a  lai-ge  river  spreading  over  the  Avhole  valley, 
and  reaching  from  these  hills  on  the  one  side  to  those  on 
the  other.  This  intermediate  valley  consists  of  an  ex- 
tremely rich  alluvial  deposit.  The  earth  brings  forth 
abundantly — it  gives  seed  to  the  sower  and  bread  to  the 
eater.  The  hand  of  the  industrious  is  made  rich.  I  have 
been  infonned  that  some  portions  of  the  land  in  this 
neighbourhood  have  yielded  not  merely  thirtyfold,  sixty- 
fold,  or  a  hundredfold,  but  so  high  as  a  thousandfold.  Of 
course,  manure  is  neither  used  nor  required. 

I  found  the  thermometer  here  in  June,  in  the  shade, 
32  deg.  in  the  morning,  66  deg.  at  eleven  o'clock,  and  92  deg. 
at  one  o'clock. 


NATIVE  CAPACITIES.  57 

With  regard  to  education,  I  find  the  remark  correct, 
that  these  people  learn  readily  while  young.  Their  capa- 
cities are  developed  early,  and  they  make  fair  progress 
according  to  the  ineans  of  instruction  employed,  and  the 
pains  which  they  can  be  induced  to  take.  But  they  do  not 
proceed  very  far.  There  is  little  ultimate  development 
beyond  the  early  stages.  Mind  then  seems  to  become 
stagnant,  and,  unless  a  powerful  stimulant  from  without  is 
applied,  no  farther  progress  is  made,  or  even  attempted.  It 
may  be,  that,  in  progress  of  time,  as  one  generation  gains 
something  in  advance  of  the  preceding,  and  comes  more 
under  the  influence  of  the  Gospel  and  religious  institu- 
tions, they  may  advance  much  more  than  they  do  at 
present. 

One  thing  is  very  clear,  that,  excepting  as  they  now 
come  under  the  influence  of  religion,  there  is  but  little  of 
mental  eff'ort  or  mental  improvement.  The  fear  of  the 
Lord  is  litei'ally,  in  a  very  important  sense,  the  beginning 
of  wisdom  :  it  teaches  men  the  value  of  mind  and  of  mental 
effort — it  strengthens  and  elevates  the  powers  of  thinking — 
it  brings  the  greatest  subjects  home  to  the  mind  and  heart — 
and  it  secures  that  self-command  and  self-respect  which  are 
so  essential  to  intellectual  improvement.  Would  that  the 
friends  of  knowledge  and  education  in  England  would  aid 
more  abundantly  in  the  prosecution  of  this  great  work!  I 
often  grieved  when  I  looked  at  the  bare  walls  of  these 
schools  !  How  very  limited  is  the  provision  of  the  means 
of  improvement !  How  few  and  trifling  the  ostensible 
inducements  to  eff'ort ! — a  card  with  A  B  C,  a  few  spelling- 
books,  and  some  copies  of  the  New  Testament !  These 
are  about  all  the  apparatus  in  most  of  the  schools.  Some 
have  a  map,  and  some,  perhaps,  two ;  as  here  at  Hankey, 
the  Map  of  Palestine  and  the  Map  of  Europe,  but  that  is 
all !  not  a  picture  on  science  or  natural  history  of  any 
kind.  The  Missionary  Society  cannot  be  blamed  for  not 
providing  these  materials.  Their  funds  are  not  ecpial  to 
these   objects ;    but   1  feel    sure    that   there    are    wealthy 


58  NEW  CHAPKL. 

friends  in  Great  Britain  who  would  help,  if  they  knew  the 
need  that  exists  for  their  assistance. 

We  held  a  jNIissionary  IMeeting  one  evening  during  my 
visit.  Ahout  two  hundred  and  fifty  jiersons  sat  do\\'n  to 
tea.  It  was  well  conducted,  and  all  seemed  happy  in  the 
enjoyment  of  the  evening.  We  had  several  English  pieces 
sung,  and  I  may  add,  well  sung.  INIany  of  the  natives  here 
have  excellent  voices.  There  is  much  harmony, — a  quick 
perception  of  the  beaiity  of  tune,  but  not  much  practical 
idea  of  time.  Mr.  Philip,  himself  a  good  singer,  and 
acquainted  with  the  science  of  singing,  is  doing  much  to 
improve  the  congregational  psalmody.  Several  of  the  men 
spoke  at  the  meeting  with  much  ease  and  good  sense.  I 
had,  as  usual,  urged  on  them  to  contribute  more  towards 
supporting  their  own  ministry  and  schools.  They  ad- 
mitted the  force  of  all  this,  and  expressed  their  desire  to 
relieve  the  Society  of  pecuniaiy  outlays  so  far  as  they 
could.  But  they  pleaded,  and  with  much  truth,  the  losses 
which  they  had  sustained  by  the  calamitous  inundation — 
the  necessity  of  rebuilding  their  houses — their  want  of 
grazing-ground  for  the  cattle, — and  the  large  amount  they 
have  to  pay  to  neighbouring  fanners,  on  whose  gi'ounds 
their  cattle  trespass,  and  by  whom  they  are  impounded. 
We  referred  to  the  design  and  desirableness  of  building  a 
new  chapel.  It  seemed  to  me  scarcely  worth  while  to  expend 
much  money  in  repairing  or  enlarging  the  present  un- 
sightly chapel.  It  would  be  much  better  to  make  an  effort 
to  build  a  new  one,  and  keep  the  old  place  for  a  school- 
room. Bricks  could  be  made  on  the  spot,  and  lime 
obtained  on  the  Institution.  Timber  is  within  easy  reach; 
and  thus  the  expense  of  a  new  chapel  would  not  be  veiy 
formidable, — say  £'300  for  a  place  75  ft.  by  28ft.  or  to  30ft. 

In  the  com^se  of  a  day  or  two,  the  overseers  of  the 
village  met,  and  talked  over  with  us  the  subject  of  the  new 
chapel,  addition  to  their  grazing-groimds,  the  rental  of  an 
adjoining  farm,  the  charge  to  be  made  for  the  right  of  graz- 
ing their  oxen  ;   and  the  result  seemed  to  be,  that  efforts 


CHUECH-FELLOWSHIP.  59 

should  be  forthwith  made  to  obtain  a  new  chapel.  The 
people  will  provide  the  bricks,  about  150,000,  and  worth 
V2s.  per  1000,  amounting  in  value  to  £90  or  £100.  I  pro- 
posed that  the  Society  should  allow  them  to  apply  to  the 
object  the  year's  Auxiliary  amount  of  subscriptions,  and 
make  them  a  contribution  by  way  of  practical  encourage- 
ment. There  are  ujiwards  of  one  hundred  membei'S  in 
church-fellowship,  and  many  are  in  the  class  of  inquirers, 
affording  gi^ound  to  hope  that  they  are  the  subjects  of 
genuine  religion.  The  people  are  usually  all  fond  of  reli- 
gious ordinances.  In  fact,  there  is  some  danger  of  their 
placing  religion  itself  in  a  mere  attendance  on  the  forms 
of  worship,  substituting  ovitward  decorum  for  spiritual 
devotion.  Hence  their  anxiety  to  be  received  as  members 
of  the  church,  perhaps  in  too  early  a  stage  of  their  reli- 
gious thoughts  and  impressions.  It  has  been  remarked, 
that  the  difficulty  of  a  faithful  and  judicious  pastor  of  a 
Missionary  Church,  consists  rather  in  restraining  the  peo- 
ple from  joining  the  church  at  too  early  a  stage  of  their 
religious  profession,  than  in  gathering  large  and  im- 
posing numbers  to  the  visible  fold.  The  opposite  plan 
of  admitting  all  persons  on  reaching  maturity,  and  who 
can  repeat  certain  formularies,  is  adopted  in  the  Dutch 
Reformed  and  Lutheran  Churches  in  the  colony.  The 
inherent  evils  of  this  system  are  sufficiently  obvious.  Men 
are  tempted  to  consider  themselves  "  Christians"  in  virtue 
of  this  visible  connexion  with  the  church.  In  the  absence 
even  of  those  indications  of  the  spiritual  life  which  the 
Scriptures  of  the  New  Testament  invariably  exliibit  as 
pre-requisites  to  church-fellowship — namely,  "  repentance 
towards  God  and  faith  in  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ" — men  are 
apt  to  regard  themselves,  merely  by  a  decent  and  orderly 
attendance  on  the  ordinances  of  religion,  as  among  the 
favoured  and  covenanted  people  of  God.  This  state  of 
things  renders  it  the  more  essential  that  churches  of  a 
more  scriptural  character  and  discipline  should  be  sus- 
tained and  encouraged,  as  witnesses  for  spiritual  Chris- 


60  PORT  K  LI /A  BETH. 

tianity,  and  that  their  rules  for  the  a<hiiission  of  members, 
although  apparently  stringent,  should  not  be  relaxed  for 
the  sake  of  the  eclat  that  might  attend  the  report  of  larger 
numbers.  The  real  strength  of  a  living  church  consists 
not  in  the  quantity,  but  the  quality  of  its  matei-ials.  The  . 
gold,  tlie  silver,  and  the  precious  stones  will  last,  and 
endure  the  "trial  by  fire,"  when  the  wood  and  hay  and 
stubble  shall  be  utterly  consumed. 

On  leaving  Hankey,  I  proceeded  to  Bethelsdoii).  Much 
of  the  scenery  in  the  neighbourhood  is  exceedingly  beauti- 
ful, and  admits  comparison  in  some  places  with  that  of 
Kaffirland  in  its  glens  and  wooded  hills.  I  had  sent  for- 
ward my  wagon  the  previous  evening.  I  intended  it  to 
have  gone  forward  earlier  in  the  day ;  but  when  the  oxen 
were  wanted,  they  had  strayed,  and  could  not  be  found. 
This  is  a  difficulty  and  annoyance  of  no  unusual  occurrence, 
wherever,  for  the  sake  of  grazing,  the  cattle  are  left  to 
roam  over  lands  that  cannot  easily  or  without  great  ex- 
pense be  enclosed.  Mr.  Durant  Philip  and  myself  rode 
from  Hankey — about  twenty-five  miles — on  horseback,  then 
overtook  the  wagon ;  and,  aided  by  three  relays  of  oxen 
kindly  provided  for  our  convenience,  we  managed  to  reach 
Bethelsdorp,  without  discomfort,  before  midnight ;  being 
the  longest  journey  I  made  in  Africa  in  one  day — namely, 
sixty  miles. 

Mrs.  Kitchingman,  widow  of  our  late  valuable  INIission- 
ary%  Rev.  John  Kitchingman,  and  j)art  of  her  family,  were 
waiting  to  welcome  us.  Tea  was  refreshing — fitting 
beverage  for  an  African  traveller — and  then  a  night's  repose 
delightful. 

In  the  course  of  the  next  day  I  proceeded  to  Port  Eli- 
zabeth. The  distance  is  only  nine  miles.  The  road  fui'- 
nishes  little  to  interest  the  traveller.  The  geology  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  bay  is  silurian.  A  coarse  kind  of 
slate  may  be  seen  cropping  out.  Near  the  beach  is  grey- 
wacke.  Oolite  is  said  to  be  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Zon- 
dag's  Pdver,  and  blue  lias,  rich  in  fossils,  at  no  gi'eat  dis- 


POET  ELIZABETH.  61 

tance.  The  Maitland  Lead  and  Copper  Mines  are  about 
twenty  miles  distant,  the  ore  of  which  is  reported  by  some 
to  be  equal  to  that  of  the  Burra  Mines  in  South  Australia. 
There  is  a  simple  Monument  on  this  hill,  which  rises 
above  the  town,  raised  by  Sir  Eufane  Donkin,  to  the 
memory  of  his  departed  wife.  Lady  Elizabeth  Donkin.  On 
a  tablet  facing  the  sea  is  the  brief  inscription:  — 

TO  THE  MEMORY 
OF  THE  MOST  PERFECT 

OF  HUMAN  BEINGS, 
WHO  GAVE  HER  NAME 
TO    THE    TOWN    BELOW, 

Port  Elizabeth  is  a  rising  and  important  town.  It 
stands  on  the  margin  of  Algoa  Bay.  The  Bay  is  not 
Avithout  its  disadvantages  for  shipping.  The  south-east 
wind  creates  a  tremendous  surf,  and  cuts  off  communica- 
tion between  the  vessels  and  the  beach.  It  is  a  roadstead, 
and  wants  good  anchorage  and  greater  facilities  for  load- 
ing and  unloading.  European  enterprise  and  perseverance 
will  ultimately  overcome  its  difficulties,  and  reward  the 
patient  toil  of  the  colonist.  The  population  has  consider- 
ably' increased  during  the  last  twelve  years,  chiefly  by 
immigrants  from  England  and  Scotland.  Port  Elizabeth 
is  acquiring  the  appearance  of  an  English  town,  but  could 
not  well  be  mistaken  for  a  town  in  England.  Its  newly- 
built  houses  and  shops  remind  one  of  the  mother  country, 
but  instantly  the  wagons,  with  their  long  spans  of  enyoked 
oxen — twelve,  fourteen,  sixteen  to  a  team, — the  smacking 
of  enormous  whips — the  hard-working  but  miserably- 
clothed  Fingoes  in  the  streets,  and  grim-visaged  Aborigines 
from  other  parts  of  the  colony,  remind  the  traveller  that 
he  is  yet  in  South  Africa.  There  are  excellent  mercantile 
stores.  Tliere  is  a  vigorous  and  intelligent  press,  and 
much  public  spirit.  A  tower  is  being  added  to  the  En- 
glish church,  that  will  greatly  improve  its  appearance. 
The   Wesleyan  chapel    is    a   neat   and    modest   building. 


63  KINGOE  HUTS. 

The  Independent  chapel  makes  no  pretensions  to  archi- 
tectural beauty  ;  but  a  new  chapel  is  in  course  of  erection 
that  will  do  honour  to  the  taste  and  liberality  of  the  Non- 
conformist body. 

For  this  latter  object  I  found  that  plans  and  estimates 
were  being  obtained.  The  outlay  was  expected  to  be 
about  £"2000.  Half  the  amount  Avas  already  raised,  and 
the  whole,  I  have  no  doubt,  will  shortly  be  forthcoming. 
The  parties  identified  with  this  movement  have  hitherto 
attended  the  ministry  of  Rev.  A.  Eobson,  who  has  minis- 
tered also  in  the  Dutch  language  to  the  coloured  popula- 
tion. Far  too  large  an  amount  of  sendee  has  thus  been 
thrown  on  ]\Ir.  Eobson.  It  will  be  a  great  advantage  to 
all  to  have  this  additional  place  of  worship,  with  its  ovm 
minister,  sustained  by  local  efforts,  and  Mr.  Eobson  left  at 
liberty  to  continue  and  even  increase  his  efficient  sei'vices 
on  behalf  of  the  coloured  people,  wdio  have  sometimes 
been  in  danger  of  thinking  themselves  a  little  "overlooked 
in  the  ministrations,"  from  the  demands  made  on  the 
Missionaiy  by  the  English  congregation. 

Port  Elizabeth  is  an  important  station  for  the  London 
Missionary  Society,  as  the  most  direct  point  of  communi- 
cation with  its  stations  on  the  frontier  and  beyond  the 
boundaries. 

In  company  with  Mr.  Passmore,  I  called  at  some  of  the 
Fingoe  houses  or  huts  in  the  native  village,  on  the  hill, 
and  where  about  three  hundred  of  them  reside.  Several 
of  the  huts  presented  an  appearance  of  comfort  far  beyond 
my  expectations.  In  structure  they  are  all  hemispherical. 
At  a  little  distance  they  resemble  immense  bee-hives. 
The  principal  one  was  about  twenty- seven  feet  in  diameter. 
They  admit  of  division  inside,  by  matting.  A  window-tax 
could  not  well  be  imposed  there,  for  of  windows  there  are 
none.  The  doors  seem  intended  for  a  race  of  dwarfs, 
rather  than  of  giants.  They  seldom  exceed  three  or  four 
feet  in  height.  The  floor  is  hard  and  clean.  The 
Governor  has  wished  them  to  build  "  square  houses."     The 


CANTEENS.  63 

superiority  of  a  square  to  a  circle  is  not  self-manifest,  at 
any  rate,    to  the  Fingoe,  while  the  difficulty  of  obtaining 
materials  for  houses  of  a  different  description  is  constantly 
felt.      Probably,  if  their  huts   are   sufficiently  large,   kept 
clean,  and  decently  j)artitioned,  they  answer  the  purposes 
of  a  migratory  people  as  well  as  houses  of  a  European 
character.     Few  of  the  people  contemplate  remaining  long 
on  the  spot.     They  are  a  grazing  people,  and  all  of  them 
naturally  anxious  to  possess  cattle  ;    but  as  sufficient  pas- 
turage cannot  be  found  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Bay, 
they  retire   to  some  other  part  of  the  colony,  or  proceed 
further  into  the  interior,  as  soon  as  they  have  converted 
their  wages   into   small  flocks   and  herds.     Many   of  the 
Fingoes  retain  their  avowed  heathenism,  and  do  not  attend 
the    religiovis    services    of  the   Missionaries    or   colonists. 
The  huts,  dress,  and  appearance  of  these  are  invariably 
inferior  to  their  fellow-countrymen  who  come  under  the 
influence  of  Christian  instruction.     The  moral  character 
of  the  Fingoes  at  the  Bay  has  undergone  a  very  serious 
deterioration  during  the  last' two  years,  principally  through 
the  increased  facilities  afforded  them  of  obtaining  ardent 
spirits.     The  number  of  licensed  "canteens"  has  been  con- 
siderably augmented,  and  these  profit  by  the  amj^le  wages  of 
these  new  victims  of  intoxication.     Formerly  they  hoarded, 
with  miserly  care,  their  hard-earned  wages.    A  large  portion 
of  these  wages  is  now  expended  in  the  canteen,  and  the 
result  is  fatal  to  their  improvement.     Many  of  them,   it 
has  been  remarked,  are  sinking  into  a  lower  state  of  men- 
tal degradation  than  belonged  to  them  while  living  in  the 
benighted  interior. 

Not  a  few,  however,  of  the  Fingoes  still  conduct  them- 
selves with  great  propriety,  and  are  at  once  decent  and 
useful  members  of  society.  They  are  desirous  of  instruc- 
tion, attend  j)ublic  worship,  and  observe  the  Sabbath. 
About  twenty-five  or  thirty  of  them  have  become  members 
of  the  Christian  church  under  the  care  of  Rev.  A.  Robson, 
and  conduct  themselves  as  consistently  with  a  Christian 


64  HISTORY  OF  THE  FINGOES. 

profession,  as  other  liodies  of  Christians.  "  Some  who 
were  grasping,  selfish,  and  avaricious,  now  contribute 
liberally  towards  the  cause  of  religion  ;  and  some,  in  the 
immediate  prospect  of  death,  have,  through  humble  faith 
in  the  Redeemer,  satisfactorily  given  a  reason  of  the  hope 
that  was  in  them." 

The  Fingoe  congi-egation  in  connexion  with  our  Society 
at  the  Bay,  contributed  towards  its  funds,  during  the  year 
1850,  £'24  2s.  '2d.;  and  it  desei-ves  to  be  recorded,  that 
when  a  Kaffir  newspaper  Avas  started  lately  (by  the  Wes- 
leyans),  no  less  than  seventeen  Fingoes  at  the  Bay  became 
subscribers  to  it,  and  evinced  much  interest  in  it !  Such 
men  are  surely  w^orth  an  effort  to  civilize  and  Christianize 
them  ;  and  the  effort  is  not  fruitless. 

With  regard  to  the  history  of  these  Fingoes,  it  may  be 
remarked  that  they  are  the  remnants  of  vai-ious  tribes, 
which  were  routed  and  destroyed  by  those  great  South 
African  marauders  and  Zoolu  despots,  Chaka  and  Dingaan. 
They  obtained  permission  from  the  late  Hintza,  the  Kaffir 
chief,  to  locate  themselves  within  his  teri'itoiy,  where  they 
found  employment  as  herdsmen.  They  acquired  con- 
siderable property  in  cattle.  Many  of  them  suffered  much 
from  the  Kaffirs,  and  ultimately  they  came  out  of  Kaffir- 
land  by  the  consent  of  Hintza,  and  were  admitted  within 
the  colony  by  permission  of  the  Governor,  his  Excellency  Sir 
Benjamin  D"Urban.  About  15,000  thus  came  within  the 
colonial  limits.  Many  of  these  are  settled  in  the  new  dis- 
trict of"  Victoria,  and  constitute  a  portion  of  the  native 
tribes  under  the  control  and  direction  of  Mr.  Calderwood, 
Civil  Commissioner  at  Alice.  The  native  tribes  within 
his  jurisdiction  amount  to  about  50,000,  exclusive  of 
the  independent  Kaffirs.  Great  numbers  of  them  also 
settled  in  the  district  of  the  Zitzikamma,  by  permission  of 
the  Colonial  Government.  It  is  reported  that  they  had 
10,000  head  of  cattle  with  them  on  passing  through  Uiten- 
hage  to  the  district  just  mentioned.  The  pasturage  there  did 
not  suit  the  cattle ;  and  their  flocks  for  the  mostpartperished. 


SALT-PAN.  65 

A  Moravian  Station  has  been  opened  there  for  their 
benefit,  called,  in  honour  of  the  well-known  advocate  of 
the  abolition  of  slavery,  "  Clarkson." 

From  Port  Elizabeth  I  returned  to  Bethelsdorp.  It 
would  be  unnecessary  here  to  repeat  the  histoiy  at  length 
of  the  Institution  at  Bethelsdorp,  which  has  now  existed 
for  fifty  years,  and  has  been  so  frequently  placed  before  the 
British  public.  It  may  be  sufficient  to  remark,  that  the 
land  was  originally  obtained  for  its  use  from  the  Dutch 
Government  of  the  colony,  when  under  General  Jansens, 
on  the  application  of  that  eminent  man,  and  talented  and 
indefatigable,  thovigh  somewhat  eccentric  Missionary,  Dr. 
Vanderkemp.  The  congregation  amounts  to  about  three 
hundred,  and  the  members  of  the  church  to  one  hun- 
dred. There  is  an  infant  school  of  sixty  children,  taught 
by  Miss  Kitchingman,  and  a  day-school,  having  the  same 
number  of  scholars,  under  the  care  of  the  Missionary,  Rev. 
Joseph  Kitchingman. 

On  the  lands  of  the  Institution  there  is  a  Salt-pan  of 
considerable  extent  and  value.  It  is  situated  about  two 
miles  from  the  village,  and  has  form.ed  a  principal  source 
of  income  to  the  people.  They  could  not  have  subsisted 
on  the  lands  of  the  Institution.  These  are  poor  and 
insufficiently  watered.  They  are  fit  neither  for  much 
grazing  nor  agriculture.  The  stream  which  passes  through 
them  is  adequate  only  for  domestic  uses.  "  Good  mea- 
sure, running  over,"  has  never  been  the  character  of  the 
grants  made  by  the  Government  in  favour  of  these  people. 
The  Salt-pan  has  been  of  service  to  them.  It  is  nearly 
two  miles  in  length,  and  about  foiu'  in  cii'cumference. 
The  salt  forms  a  cnist  or  deposit  on  the  soil,  under  tlie 
water,  about  a  quarter  or  half  an  inch  in  thickness.  This 
is  scraped  together  in  heaps,  and  carefully  washed  from 
impurities,  in  water  found  on  the  spot.  It  is  then  taken  to 
the  margin  of  the  lake  and  placed  in  heaps,  where  it  is 
sold  to  farmers  for  manure,  or  conveyed  to  Port  Elizabeth, 
where  it  is  both  used  for  hoa^e  consumption  and  exi)orta- 

F 


66  THOMAS  PRINOI.F. 

tion.  At  the  time  of  my  visit,  aboii'  10,000  bushels  had 
been  produced  and  disposed  of  within  the  past  five 
months,  and  about  4000  bushels  were  ready  for  sale.  The 
salt  belongs  to  the  people  generally, — that  is  to  say,  to 
any  of  them  who  go  to  work  at  the  pan  and  collect  it.  Its 
price  was  Is.  6f/.  per  muid  (containing  four  measures  of  a 
foot  square  each).  The  amount  sold  within  the  time  men- 
tioned has  therefore  brought  in  ,£'400.  About  forty  fami- 
lies have  been  thus  employed,  realizing  £10  each.  About 
the  same  may  be  expected  again  by  the  expiration  of  the 
year.  There  is  not  much  profit  in  this.  The  time  and 
labour  consumed  in  obtaining  it,  and  then  the  expense  of 
carriage  hj  ox  wagons  to  the  Bay,  absorb  all  the  gain.  If 
the  people  were  provident,  or  could  be  induced  to  keep  the 
salt  in  store  for  a  time,  they  might  often  realize  double 
and  ti'eble  the  price.  As  it  is,  they  ovei'stock  the  market. 
and  then  obtain  prices  which  do  not  remunerate  them. 

There  are  about  thirty  or  forty  good,  substantial  houses, 
built  of  brick  or  stone,  in  the  village  of  Betlielsdorp,  and 
most  of  them  are  neatly  whitewashed.  Several  have 
windows,  and  contain  a  moderate  supply  of  furniture. 
They  are  clean  and  comfortable.  The  aloe-trees  (of  me- 
dicine) abound  here,  and  have  produced  a  considerable 
revenue  to  the  people.  It  is  said  they  now  require  to  b(^ 
left  standing  a  year  or  so  untouched. — having  been  cut  and 
drained,  and  exhausted  of  their  virtue  rather  too  copiously 
and  unintermittingly.  A  fresh  stock  should  be  planted, 
so  as  to  secure  crops  in  succession.  I  i-ecommended  Mr. 
Kitchingman  to  have  two  or  three  of  the  more  intelligent 
natives  associated  with  him,  and  to  forai  a  "  Committee  of 
Improvement,"  which  .should  consult  on  all  matters  affect- 
ing the  general  interest  and  prosperity  of  the  Station. 
Limestone  is  also  found  on  the  estate,  and  might  be  bunit 
and  sold  among  the  farmers  as  a  source  of  profit.  There 
are  also  some  indications  of  coal  in  the  neighbovu'hood. 

In  the  year  18'20,  Thomas  Pringle,  the  poet,  visited 
Bethelsdoi-p.     He  has  given,  in  his  admirable  "  NaiTative  of 


>;ative  races.  67 

a  Residence  in  South  Africa,"  tlie  following  graphic  descrip- 
tion of  his  visit : — "  I  attended  the  evening  sen'ice  of  the 
Missionary  in  the  rustic  chapel.  The  demeanour  of  the 
audience  was  attentive  and  devout,  and  their  singing  of 
the  Missionaiy  hymns  singularly  pleasing  and  harmonious. 
I  saw  hefore  me  the  remnant  of  an  aboriginal  race  to 
w^hom  this  remote  region,  now  occupied  by  white  colonists, 
had  at  no  distant  period  belonged.  As  I  sat  and  listened 
to  the  soft  and  touching  melody  of  the  female  voices,  or 
gazed  on  the  earnest,  upturned  swarthy  countenances  of 
the  aged  men,  who  had  probably  spent  their  early  days  in 
the  wild  freedom  of  nomadic  life,  and  worn  out  their  mid- 
dle life  in  the  service  of  the  colonists,  it  was  pleasing  to 
think,  that  here,  and  in  a  few  other  institutions  such  as 
this,  the  Christian  humanity  of  Europe  had  done  some- 
thing to  alleviate  European  oppression,  by  opening  Asy- 
lums where,  at  least,  a  few  of  the  race  were  enabled  to 
escape  from  personal  thraldom,  and  to  emerge  from  heathen 
darkness  into  the  glorious  light  and  liberty  of  the  Gospel." 

Many  of  my  impressions,  while  I  was  among  them,  were 
similar  to  those  expressed  in  this  quotation. 

But  with  all  that  I  found  satisftictoiy  and  encouraging, 
there  was  still  wanting  the  earnestness  that  presses  on  to 
"  perfection."  The  natives  seem  to  me  to  rest  satisfied 
with  doing  just  something,  but  leaving  off  far  too  soon. 
The  block  is  hewn  from  the  quarry,  but  the  statue  is  not 
finished.  They  would  lay  the  foundation  of  a  pyramid, 
but  never  reach  the  apex.  This  is,  perhaps,  the  natural 
tendency  of  the  Hottentot  mind,  but  it  has  given  a  colour- 
ing to  everything  around  them.  Institutions,  teachers, 
and  Missionaries,  are  in  danger  of  being  infected  by  it 
Here,  at  Bethelsdorp,  is  a  good  chapel,  but  no  flooring. 
The  people  have  floored  their  school-room,  but  the  chapel 
remains  cold,  damp,  and  cheerless.  These  little  things  are 
significant.  They  indicate;  cliaracter.  There  is  a  radical  evil, 
and  it  lies  in  the  constitutional  defect  and  timidity  of  the 
Hottentot.   Physically,  also,  they  are  not  a  strong  and  vigor- 


68  FEARS  FOR  THE  NATIVE  RACES. 

ous  race.  !Many  of  them  labour  under  soine  disease  of  the 
chest.  They  are  extrenielv  susceptible  of  colds  and  coughs; 
they  complain  of  "pain  in  the  side,"  and  die  of  consumption 

It  is  impossible  to  conceal  one's  fears  for  the  ultimate 
e.xistence  of  most  of  the  coloured  races  in  South  Africa ;  I 
mean  those,  in  the  first  instance,  within  the  colony,  and 
those  in  the  neighbourhood  of  places  where  the  emigi-ant 
Boers  have  lately  settled.  The  lands  of  the  native  tribes 
become  gradually  encroached  on ;  jealousies  and  animosi- 
ties, wars  and  retaliations,  arise  :  the  native  tribes  are 
driven  back,  lose  their  property,  their  lands,  their  courage  ; 
they  fall  back  on  other  tribes,  where  they  encounter  more 
or  less  resistance,  become  w-eaker  and  weaker,  and  the 
white  man  advances,  and  absorbs  the  whole ! 

The  only  means  of  averting  the  e^-il, — and  surely  it  is  an 
evil  that  might  be  averted, — seems  to  be,  the  elevation  of 
the  people  by  instruction,  combined  with  such  an  equitable 
treatment  of  them  as  may  convince  them  that  we  are  their 
friends,  and  not  their  enemies,  and  thus,  instead  of  being 
disposed  to  employ  their  newly  acquired  knowledge  against 
us,  in  defending  ther  rights  as  against  aggression,  they 
may  be  induced  to  cultivate  our  friendship,  seek  our  pro- 
tection, imitate  our  Institutions,  and  learn  our  religion. 

The  juvenile  native  population  now  under  our  instruc- 
tion should  be  well  and  carefulhj  trained,  so  as  to  render 
them  a  respectable  and  intelligent  portion  of  the  com- 
munity. And  the  natives  should  be  encom-aged  to  become 
independent  lando^\-ners,  especially  where  they  have  char- 
acter and  energ}'  to  profit  by  such  advantages. 

Having  expressed  these  sentiments,  this  may  be  the 
proper  place  to  add,  that  my  firm  conviction  is,  if  our 
relations  with  these  colom-ed  tribes  were  only  conducted 
on  the  broad  and  honourable  principles  of  Christianity, 
there  Avould  be  little  to  apprehend  as  to  any  fatal  collision 
between  the  w^iite  and  coloured  races.  There  is  not  a  line 
in  revelation  to  justify  the  assumption  that  the  coloured 
races  are  doomed  to  perish  in  presence  of  the  white  races, 


GREAT  Britain's  duty.  69 

and  to  make  room  for  them.  It  is  utterly  incompatible 
with  the  benevolent  ordinations  of  Providence,  so  far  as 
they  are  known,  to  supjjose  that  any  such  dire  necessity 
exists.  Those  men  pi'oceed  from  the  same  original  stock 
of  the  human  family  as  ourselves,  and  are  made  of  "  one 
blood."  Ten  thousand  instances  can  be  adduced  of  their 
capability  of  receiving  instruction  and  civilization.  There 
wants  only  the  noble  and  generous  determination  to  do 
them  no  wrong  in  our  treatment  of  them  and  our  dealings 
with  them.  Our  superior  knowledge  should  not  un- 
worthily be  employed  in  taking  any  unfair  advantage  of 
them,  but  righteously  employed  in  devising  the  means  of 
their  welfare  in  conjunction  with  our  own.  This  were  a 
noble  senace  for  Great  Britain  to  attempt !  It  may  involve 
difficult  problems  ;  but  Great  Britain  has  lofty  minds  that 
can  solve  difficult  problems,  and  noble  hearts  that  can  aid 
in  the  solution  of  great  questions,  where  a  nation's  honour, 
a  nation's  morality,  and  a  nation's  Christianity  are  all  in- 
volved. 

With  regard  to  this  Institution  of  ours  at  Bethelsdoi-p, 
it  is  but  candid  to  say,  that  for  some  time  past  affairs  had 
not  been  in  the  most  satisfactory  state.  All  this  could  be 
accounted  for :  the  disturbances  created  by  the  Kaffir  War 
of  1846-47,  had  proved  injurious,  and  the  declining  health 
and  debility  of  the  late  Missionary  had  i:)artially  disquali- 
fied him  for  the  active  efforts  wanted.  No  additions  had 
been  lately  made  to  the  Church.  The  congregation  had 
remained  stationaiy.  Happily,  indeed,  no  cases  of  flagrant 
immorality  had  occurred,  nor  any  cases  requiring  the 
exercise  of  church  discipline  ;  but  still,  the  general  state  of 
things  indicated  declension,  lifelessness,  and  decay.  I 
endeavoured  to  revive  what  I  found  faint  and  languid. 
That  was  the  object  of  my  address  to  the  members  of  the 
Church,  at  the  Lord's  table,  on  the  Sunday.  I  delivered 
also  an  address  in  English,  on  the  Monday  evening,  in  the 
school-room,  where  upwards  of  one  hundred  j)ersons, 
chiefly  from  the   age  of  sixteen  to  twenty-five,  attended, 


70  FEARS  AND  HOPES. 

and  who.  I  think,  nnderstood  English  sufficiently  to  com- 
prehend my  address.  Next  day  a  public  meeting  was 
held,  and  well  attended.  All  the  men  belonging  to  the 
Institution  were  present.  I  distinctly  stated  the  claims 
which  the  Society  had  on  them  for  more  liberal  contribu- 
tions. I  urged  the  fact  that,  after  forty-five  to  fifty  years' 
labour  among  them,  and  a  vast  expenditure  of  resources 
during  that  period,  they  had  not,  strictly  speaking,  con- 
ti'ibuted  anything  towards  the  diffusion  of  the  Gospel 
among  the  heathen  tribes  ;  for  though  their  Auxiliaiy  had 
sometimes  raised  as  much  as  £100  per  annum,  a  much 
larger  sum  than  that  had  always  been  expended  by  the 
Society  on  Bethelsdorp :  their  contributions,  therefore, 
had,  in  effect,  come  back  among  themselves.  I  adverted 
to  their  gi*eatly  improved  condition,  as  compared  with 
former  times,  their  present  means  of  support,  and  the 
circumstances  of  comfort  in  which  they  were  placed,  by 
means  of  their  oxen,  wagons,  salt-pan,  and  supply  of  aloes. 
I  urged  on  them  the  necessity  of  improving  the  appear- 
ance of  the  place,  the  houses,  gardens,  farms,  &c. ;  these 
being  the  things  that  would  strike  the  attention  of  the 
traveller,  and  official  men  in  the  colony,  and  which  gave, 
in  fact,  a  character  to  the  inhabitants  themselves.  Several 
of  the  men  spoke  in  reply,  and  with  good  effect.  They 
acquitted  themselves  well.  They  expressed  themselves 
with  intelligence,  force,  and  feeling.  I  had  put  the  ques- 
tion to  them  as  preliminary  to  all  our  proceedings,  whe- 
ther, in  their  judgment,  Bethelsdorp  ought  any  longer  to 
be  retained  as  an  Institution,  or  whether  the  time  had 
not  come,  when  the  lands  might  in  some  way  be  given 
back  to  the  Government.  I  wished  them  to  state  their 
own  thoughts  and  wishes  on  this  subject.  To  this  point, 
therefore,  they  directed  their  responses  with  great  energy, 
strongly  deprecating  the  idea  of  Bethelsdorp  being  relin- 
quished, and  earnestly  requesting  that  it  might  be  re- 
tained. Three  resolutions  were  then  passed ;  one,  of 
thankfulness  to  the  Society  for  its  exertions  during  so  many 


CONTRIBUTIONS.  71 

years  on  their  behalf,  and,  above  all,  to  God,  who  had 
raised  up  such  a  Society;  a  second,  of  earnest  desire  that 
the  Institution  might  be  maintained ;  and  a  third,  of 
jrromlse  to  aid  it  by  enlarged  contributions. 

A  paper  was  then  filled  with  their  names  as  contributors. 
They  came  forwai'd  and  promised  what  they  would  give 
during  the  year.  Many  promised  £-2 ;  others,  £1  10s. ; 
others,  £1;  and  others,  smaller  sums.  Mr.  Kitchingman 
assured  me,  that  he  had  no  doubt  nearly  all  these  would 
fulfil  their  promises,  and  that  they  had  the  means  of  doing 
so.  The  sum  total  promised  at  the  morning  meeting 
amounted  to  about  £90 ;  a  few  others  still  intended  put- 
ting down  their  names,  and  the  aggregate  might  be  con- 
sidered as  £100.  This  would  be  exclusive  of  their  usual 
monthly  and  annual  collections. 

Another  meeting  of  the  people  was  held  during  my 
visit,  in  relation  to  some  of  the  secular  arrangements  of 
the  Institution.  There  is  what  is  termed  the  "  Algemeene 
Werk" — a  public  service,  such  as  keeping  roads,  fences, 
&c.,  in  repair.  Usually,  the  people  have  all  given  Monday, 
through  the  year,  to  these  objects.  This  is  equivalent  to 
a  cost  of  £240  a  year,  estimating  the  day's  work  at  Is.  Qd., 
and  allowing  for  only  sixty  men  on  the  Institution.  This 
has  occasioned  great  loss,  many  heart-burnings,  and  un- 
necessary altercations.  It  is  now  proposed  that  the  people 
tax  themselves,  as  at  Hankey,  and  pay  out  of  the  sum 
raised  for  the  actual  work  done.  This  seems  to  be  a  plan 
at  once  more  economical  and  more  equitable.  The  pay- 
ment of  a  third  of  the  sum  now  sacrificed,  say  sixpence  per 
week,  or  £1  6s.  during  the  year,  would  accomplish  the 
object,  and  save  to  every  man  time  for  labour  equal  in 
value  to  £2  l'2s.  per  annum — a  far  larger  amount  than  they 
now  contribute  to  the  parent  Society. 

Other  important  matters  were  brought  under  review, 
such  as  hiring  part  of  a  farm  in  the  vicinity  of  Bethelsdorp, 
for  grazing  their  cattle,  and  an  attempt  to  obtain  a  better 
HU2)ply  of  water  for  the  Institution,   by  means  of  l)oring. 


73  riTENITAGE TEA  TARTY. 

Tliese  and  other  points  gravely  affecting  the  welfare  and 
advancement  of  the  people  will  continue  to  share  the 
attention  of  the  Missionary  who  is  now  settled  over  them, 
with  fair  prospects  of  usefulness  and  comfort,  and  who  is 
within  reach  of  the  judicious  counsels  of  Dr.  Philip  at 
Hankey,  with  Messrs.  D.  Philip  and  J.  Christie. 

In  the  course  of  the  next  week  (18th  July)  1  left  Bethels- 
dorp.  The  Eev.  T.  J.  Paterson,  Missionary  at  Uitenhage, 
had  set  out  with  two  friends  to  meet  me  on  my  way  thither. 
I  accompanied  them  to  Uitenhage,  the  principal  town  of 
the  district  of  that  name,  eleven  miles  from  Bethelsdorp. 
The  situation  of  the  place  is  admirable.  It  is  a  fertile 
spot,  on  the  old  red-sandstone  formation,  and  well  watered. 
The  streets  are  wide,  and  at  right  angles  with  each  other. 
Here  are  many  excellent  houses — some  in  the  Dutch,  and 
others  in  the  English  style.  Small  ri\Tilets  run  down  some 
of  the  streets  on  both  sides,  and  keep  the  gardens  well 
watered,  and  the  trees  fresh  and  flourishing.  Among  these 
are  oaks,  willows,  oranges,  peaches,  and  firs.  I  obsei'\-ed 
also  the  banana  and  almond.  The  whole  aspect  of  the 
place  is  pleasing  and  reviving.  The  town  occupies  a  large 
space,  the  houses  being  almost  all  detached,  and  all  having 
gardens.  There  is  a  good  church,  stone-bviilt,  belonging 
to  the  Dutch  Reformed  Congregation,  and  of  which  Mr. 
Smith  has  been  minister  for  more  than  twenty-five  years  ; 
— an  excellent  man  and  indefatigable  minister.  The  popu- 
lation is  about  five  thousand,  and  consists  half  of  white 
people,  and  half  of  coloured,  including  Fingoes,  Bassutos, 
Hottentots,  and  mixed  races. 

On  reaching  the  to^\^n  (2  o'clock  p.  m.),  I  found  the 
friends  of  the  congi-egation  of  the  London  Missionary 
Society  all  busy  with  preparations  for  a  soiree  that  even- 
ing, and  which  was  intended  as  a  mark  of  the  esteem  and 
respect  they  were  desirou.s  of  showing  me,  as  the  de- 
putation from  the  Society.  Accordingly,  at  6  o'clock,  we 
met.  About  400  sat  down  to  tea.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Smith, 
of  the  Dutch  Church,  took  the  chair.     Mr.  Hall,  Wesleyan 


PUBLIC  MEETING.  73 

minister,  was  with  us,  and  Mr.  Kitcliingman,  from  Bethels- 
dorp.  Tlie  body  of  the  chapel  was  occupied  with  a  cross 
table,  veiy  neatly  and  tastefully  ornamented  with  flowers, 
and  amply  supplied  with  oranges  and  cakes  ;  two  immense 
chandeliers  occupied  the  centre  of  the  tables,  gaily  adorned 
with  flowers.  The  singers  occupied  the  galleries.  After 
tea  we  had  several  addresses,  and  after  each,  a  hymn,  or 
some  other  piece  of  sacred  composition,  was  sung ;  and, 
excepting  that  the  voices  wei'e  rather  too  powerful,  the 
execution  was  excellent,  under  the  guidance  of  Mr.  Jones. 
In  the  course  of  the  evening,  oranges  and  cake  were 
handed  round,  and  later  in  the  evening,  coffee.  The  com- 
pany broke  up  about  10  o'clock — all  delighted,  I  think, 
with  the  Christian  spirit  that  had  pervaded  the  meeting, 
and  the  animated  appearance  and  kindly  character  of  the 
whole  scene.  The  assembly  consisted  almost  exclusively 
of  persons  of  colour ;  but  all  were  comfortably  and  even 
respectably  dressed  in  European  clothing.  All  the  arrange- 
ments were  well  conducted,  and  I  was  gratified  on  learning 
that  the  whole  had  been  managed  by  the  people  them- 
selves. They  paid  one  shilling  each  for  tickets  of  admis- 
sion, and  devoted  the  suiplus,  after  paying  cost  of  provisions, 
&c.,  to  the  general  funds  connected  with  the  congregation. 
They  hold,  annually,  a  similar  meeting,  usually  about 
Christmas,  in  commemoration  of  the  abolition  of  slavery, 
in  which  condition  most  of  those  present  had  been  bom, 
and  out  of  which  tliey  had  been,  through  British  justice 
and  benevolence,  happily  rescued.  And  how  well  they 
deseiwed  emancipation,  and  how  amply  they  have  profited 
by  their  advantages  in  their  new  condition,  the  scene  of 
social  comfort,  intelligence,  order,  and  ix'ligion  which  I 
witnessed  that  evening,  afforded  me  many  and  cheering 
illustrations,  and  made  me  wish,  that  everywhere,  in  both 
liemispheres,  man  were  as  free  and  as  liappy. 

Next  evening,  we  held  a  public  meeting  of  the  congrega- 
tion. This  gave  me  the  desired  opportunity  of  stating 
more  fully  and  explicitly  the  objects  of  my  visit,  and  the 


74  THEOrOLIS. 

views  and  wishes  of  the  parent  Society  in  reference  to  their 
making  additional  ctl'orts  towards  the  support  of  their  own 
ministry  and  institutions.  Considering  the  circumstances 
of  the  people,  that  they  are  all  of  the  lahouring  classes, 
with  limited  means  of  support,  they  have  hitherto  con- 
tributed liberally  towards  the  funds  of  the  Society, — say 
about  £Q0  per  annum.  These  Auxiliary  contributions  are, 
howevei',  usually  expended  on  local  objects,  such  as  repairs 
of  Mission  premises,  chapels,  schools,  &c. 

The  next  Station  which  I  had  to  visit  was  Theopolis, 
and  my  route  thither  led  me  again  through  Bethelsdorp. 

Accompanied  by  Rev.  T.  J.  Paterson,  and  seven  of  his 
people,  I  set  out  on  horseback,  and  remained  about  an 
hour  at  Bethelsdorp.  ^ly  wagon  had  been  sent  forward 
in  the  morning.  Mr.  Kitcliingman  and  myself  overtook  it 
in  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  and  "  outspanned"'  for  the 
night  at  "  Commandos  Kraal."  Next  day,  we  reached 
Long  Bush,  a  Missionary  out-station  connected  with  the 
services  of  Mr.  Smith,  of  Graham's  Town,  and  where  Mr. 
Smith  had  come  forward  to  meet  me.  The  j^eople  here 
are  chiefly  wood-cutters,  and  deserve,  as  I  think,  encourag- 
ing treatment  at  the  hands  of  the  Government,  as  a  sober, 
industrious,  and  intelligent  people.  They  might  form  a 
village  and  a  thriving  community.  They  have  built  a 
small  chapel  on  the  spot,  and  we  held  sendee  there  next 
morning.  From  hence,  Mr.  Smith  returned  to  Graham's 
Town,  Mr.  Kitcliingman  to  Bethelsclor^),  and  I  proceeded 
to  Theopolis.  The  actual  distance  is  not  more  than  eighty 
miles,  but  the  journey  is  fatiguing.  It  has  occupied  Jive 
days,  and  that  too  with  the  advantage  of  a  frequent  change 
of  oxen,  supplied  by  the  Bethelsdorp  people,  the  Long 
Bush  people,  and  two  spans  from  Theopolis.  The  scenery 
for  the  first  two  or  three  days  was  extremely  uninteresting: 
the  ground  we  passed  over  consisted  mainly  of  sandstone. 
The  last  two  days  have  presented  some  very  agreeable 
sceneiy — some  fine  kloofs,  valleys,  and  defiles,  well  wooded 
and   well  watered.     The   descents  to  the  rivers  have  been 


THEOPOLTS.  76 

rather  troublesome.  We  crossed  the  Zondag  River  after 
the  Zwartkops,  the  Bushman  River — often  difficult  and 
dangerous — and  then  the  Kasouga.  The  latter  river,  which 
runs  close  by  the  Institution,  is  there  a  very  small  stream. 
The  village  looked  well  at  a  little  distance,  and  more 
especially  as,  in  honour  of  my  visit,  the  people  had  white- 
washed the  exterior  of  their  houses  and  the  public  build- 
ings, the  chapel,  schools,  and  the  Missionaries'  houses. 
There  had  been  a  long  drought,  and,  consequently, 
neither  fields  nor  gardens  indicated  much  cultivation. 
Some  showers  were  now  falling,  and  ploughing  had 
commenced.  I  observed,  on  my  journey,  the  old  Dutch 
plough  still  in  use,  with  its  ten  or  twelve  oxen  !  Occasion- 
ally, the  American  plough  is  used,  and  is  becoming  more 
extensively  demanded.  This  is  worked  with  three  or  four 
oxen.     The  Dutch  are  very  jealous  of  changes. 

On  the  Sunday  which  I  spent  at  Theopolis,  the  congrega- 
tions were  good.  The  chapel  holds  about  four  hundred, 
and  was  nearly  filled.  The  appearance  of  the  people  is  that 
of  great  poverty,  or  of  great  negligence.  I  presume  a  share 
of  both  exists.  The  people,  however,  have  but  few  means 
of  procuring  a  livelihood.  Their  only  market  is  Graham  s 
Town,  thirty  miles  distant.  They  cannot  convey  a  load  of 
produce  there  at  a  cost  of  much  less  than  20s.  They 
manufacture,  from  the  timber  on  the  Institution,  axles, 
fellies,  spokes,  &c.  They  fell  and  sell  timber,  and  make 
charcoal.  There  is  no  lime  on  the  estate.  They  cannot 
grow  much,  for  want  of  a  better  supply  of  water.  There  is 
no  artificial  irrigation,  nor  any  means  of  obtaining  it.  All 
those  who  had  cattle  suffered  severely  by  the  losses  sus- 
tained in  the  late  Kaffir  War.  The  aged  Missionary,  Mr. 
Sass  (since  deceased),  lost  all  the  few  oxen  he  had,  in  both 
the  last  wars. 

I  am  not  aware  of  any  sufficient  reason  why  Theopolis 
might  not  be  as  important  and  effective  an  Institution  now 
as  it  formerly  was.  The  natural  capabilities,  thcjugh  few, 
rciiiain   the  same  ;   and  I  should  think  that  a  devoted  and 


76  SUFFERINGS  FROM  WAR,   1847. 

effective  ^Missionary  there  would  be  as  successful  in  raising 
the  Institution  as  in  former  times. 

At  present  it  is  placed  under  the  vigilant  superintendence 
of  our  Missionary,  Eev.  N.  H.  Suiith,  of  Graham's  Town, 
^who  pays  it  regular  periodical  visits.  The  people  have 
promised  to  raise  £50  per  annum  towards  the  expenses 
incurred  by  the  Society.  There  is  a  congregation  of  about 
two  hundred  people.  About  one  hundred  and  forty 
children  attend  the  day  and  infant  schools,  and  there  are 
fifty  members  on  the  Church  books. 

Theopolis  was  in  imminent  danger  during  the  KaflSrWar 
of  ]  846-47.  The  Missionary  who  was  there  at  the  time, 
Rev.  R.  B.  Taylor,  now  at  Cradock,  has  given  a  gi'aphic 
description  of  the  circumstances,  in  the  following  terms : — 

"  The  first  attack  on  Theopolis,  by  the  Kaffirs,  took  place  on  Mon- 
day night,  April  26th.  Riunoiirs  of  their  being  in  the  neighbourhood 
had  reached  us  some  days  previously.  They  had  made  a  furious 
attack,  on  the  25th,  on  the  camp  formed  at  the  residence  of  Mr. 
McLuckie,  a  farmer  a  few  miles  distant.  The  house  being  built  of 
stone,  they  made  no  material  impression  on  it,  but  swept  off  the 
whole  of  the  cattle,  amounting,  it  was  said,  to  upwards  of  1600.  A 
little  before  sunset  I  observed  three  or  four  Kaffirs  dodging  about 
on  the  height  west  of  the  collage,  evidently  making  observations. 
ITiese  were  pointed  out  to  the  commandant,  Plaatje  Bezuidenhout. 
He  immediately  set  the  watch,  fully  expectmg  an  attack  to  be  made 
that  night.  The  women  and  children  were  placed,  for  greater  secu- 
rity, some  in  the  chapel,  some  in  the  infant  school-house,  and  the 
rest  in  my  dwelling-house.  "Within  two  hours  after  sunset  an  at- 
tack was  made.     It  continued  till  about  midnight,  when  they  retired. 

"At  six  o'clock  next  morning  a  patrool  started  as  usual,  and  at 
about  half-past  nine  sharp  filing  was  heard  behind  a  hill,  in  front  of 
the  village.  It  was  evident  that  our  patrool  was  engaged.  All  the 
able-bodied  men  proceeded  to  the  spot  whence  the  roll  of  musketry 
came  ;  the  aged  and  weakly  posted  themselves  as  guards  on  the 
rising  ground  above  and  around  the  tillage.  The  firing  became  ter- 
rific, and  lasted  till  ten  o'clock  p.  m.  It  soon  after  entirely  ceased. 
An  intense  and  painful  solicitude  was  felt  to  know  the  resiilt.  A 
full  hour  elapsed  ere  anything  occurred  to  relicA^e  the  suspense.  At 
last  a  compact  column  was  perceived  moving  over  and  descending 
the  crown  of  the  hill,  which  had  concealed  the  combatants  from  ^iew. 


SUFFERINGS  FROM  WAR,   1847.  77 

The  inquiry  now  arose — '  But  who  are  they  ?'  By  the  aid  of  a  tele- 
scope I  could  distinguish  them,  and  I  then  told  the  anxious  group 
about  me,  '  They  are  men  icith  clothes  on.'  This  instantly  gave  relief. 
'  Then  they  are  our  people,'  instantly  bvu-st  from  every  mouth  ;  and 
soon  we  had  the  happiness  to  find  that,  although  they  had  been  op- 
posed to  upwards  of  one  hiuidi-ed  foot  and  a  dozen  horsemen^: — 
double  their  own  number — there  was  not  only  no  one  missing  of  our 
people,  but  not  one  wounded.  Of  the  Kaifirs,  eleven  poor  creatures 
had  been  shot,  and  many  wovuided.  The  Kaffirs,  however,  came 
down  upon  us  again  about  eight  in  the  evening,  and  continued  fight- 
iaig  till  nearly  day-dawn  next  morning.  None  of  oirr  people  were 
injm-ed  ;  but,  fi-om  traces  of  blood  on  the  gromid,  it  was  su^Dposed 
several  of  the  enemy  had  been  woiurded. 

"Next  night  they  attacked  the  camp  of  Dell,  within  thi-ee  miles 
of  the  village,  so  that  we  had  rest  for  that  night  from  fighting,  though 
not  from  anxietj^  and  watching.  Thursday  they  agam  came  upon 
lis,  but  from  a  different  quarter,  and  were  again  beaten  off.  They 
renewed  the  attack  at  night,  and  this  proved  the  most  terrific  and  the 
most  disastrous  of  all.  The  night  was  truly  di-eadful:  tkrough  the 
treachery  of  some  Kaffir-  women,  to  whom,  as  people  in  distress,  we 
had  a  few  days  pre\iously  given  refuge,  our  cattle  ki-aal  was  opened 
in  three  several  places,  and  the  whole  of  the  cattle  di'iven  out.  The 
greater  part  were  recaptured,  but  the  Kaffirs  got  off  with  about 
tluee  hundred  and  fifty  head.  Two  of  our  people,  Fingoes,  were 
severely  wounded,  one  Avith  an  assagai,  the  other  with  a  bullet,  of 
which  wounds,  a  day  or  two  afterwards,  both  died.  One  of  these  Avas  a 
Cluistian — a  man  whom  I  had  hoped  wordd  in  a  short  time  become 
very  useful  as  a  Catecliist.  The  almost  incessant  fighting  had  ex- 
pended nearly  the  whole  of  the  ammunition.  All  communication 
with  Graham's  To\vn,  the  only  place  whence  it  could  be  obtaijied, 
was  cut  off.  The  Kaffirs  were  in  force  all  around  us,  and  flushed  with 
their  success.  Nothing,  in  the  usual  eoiu-se  of  things,  offered,  that 
could  prevent  the  full  execution  of  a  thi-cat  piit  forth  by  the  enemy  at 
the  beginning — '  to  take  all  the  cattle,  then  kill  all  the  men,  destroy 
the  buildings,  and  take  the  women  for  themselves.'  This  was  i)re- 
eminently  our  time  of  need.  Prayer,  that  had  not  ceased  to  be  offei'cd 
fi-om  the  commencement,  now  became  the  only  hope  of  the  pious. 

"  While  hastily  putting  together  necessary  articles,  in  preparation 
for  a  proposed  attempt  to  force  our  way  through  to  Graham's  Town, 
we  received  intelligence  of  the  arrival  of  Colonel  Somerset,  with  his 
division,  in  our  immediate  neighbourhood.  A  company  of  the  Cape 
Corps  was  given  as  a  guard  for  the  night.  Sabbath  momuig,  the 
Colonel  came  to  give  us  notice  that  it  was  his  intention  to  remove  all 


78  ,.-'    GRAHAMS  TOWN. 

European  families  ■from  the  district,  in  order  to  his  hemg  ahle  to  de- 
vote his  undivided  attention  to  the  expulsion  of  the  numerous  bands 
of  KafHrs  Avhich  had  got  into  it.  In  pressing  this  point,  he  was  kind 
but  decided.  He  regretted  the  necessity  of  the  measure,  but  the 
strength  of  the  enemy  and  the  weakness  of  the  force  at  his  command 
rendered  its  adoption  imperative  ;  and  next  morning,  before  day- 
break, ivagons  came  from  the  Colonel,  with  a  strong  escort,  and  orders 
for  our  immediate  removal.  By  Tuesday  night  we  were  all  safe  in 
Graham's  Town." 

The  people  of  Theopolis  kindly  provided  me  with  the  loan 
of  two  teams  of  oxen,  to  assist  me  in  reaching  Graham's 
TowTi,  thirty-five  miles  distant.  The  first  span  proceeded  as 
far  as  Brak  Eiver,  and  the  second  brought  me  to  the  foot  of 
the  hill  adjoining  the  to^^^l.  There  the  Eev.  W.  C.  Thompson 
met  me,  and  with  him  I  proceeded  on  horseback  the  rest  of 
the  journey,  leaving  the  wagon  to  follownext  morning.  This 
is  a  long  and  wearisome  part  of  the  excursion  ;  the  ascent 
of  the  hill  is  fatiguing,  and  presents  as  miserable  a  piece 
of  road  as  ever  panted  for  the  skill  of  McAdam.  It  was 
nearly  ten  o'clock  at  night  before  I  reached  the  hospitable 
residence  of  H.  Rutherfoord,  Esq.,  who  had  kindly  sent 
forward  a  note  to  renew  his  friendly  invitation,  with  that  of 
Mrs.  Rutherfoord,  that  during  my  stay  in  Graham's  To^^^lhis 
house  should  be  my  domicile.  I  recur  to  my  visit  there  with 
grateful  interest,  and  could  only  wish  eveiy  Christian 
family  to  be  as  well  regulated  as  I  found  theirs  to  be, — that 
every  Missionary  had  as  cordial  a  welcome  and  cheering 
attentions  from  some  Gains  as  I  received — and  that  everv^ 
merchant  of  every  town  in  the  world  .possessed  as 
honourable  a  character  in  society  as  the  gentleman  of 
whom  I  speak. 

Graham's  Town,  the  chief  towni  of  Albany,  and  the  me- 
tropolis of  the  eastern  division  of  the  colony,  has  little 
beauty  and  no  antiquity  to  boast  of. 

Its  importance  may  be  dated  from  the  arrival  of  a  body 
of  settlers  in  1820.  The  district  was  fomierly  called 
the  Zuurveld  (Sour  Field).  The  native  Kafiirs  were  ex- 
pelled by  force  of  araas.     The  towai  is  situated  on  a  low 


CHArELS.  79 

piece  of  countiy,  suiToiinded  by  sandstone  hills,  whose 
aspect  at  present  is  cheerless  and  uninviting'.  .No  trees 
adorn  the  hills,  hut  they  are  not  without  grass,  heatlis,  and 
hushes.  The  kloofs  or  ravines  have  some  large  timber, 
and  exhibit  some  rich  scenery.  The  township  is  large.  It 
is  said  to  occupy  almost  as  much  space  as  Cape  Town, 
though  having  at  present  not  more  than  one-sixth  of  the 
inhabitants, — say  5000  or  6000.  The  streets  are  bold  and 
spacious.  In  some  of  them  there  are  rows  of  oak-trees  facing 
the  houses,  and  occasionally  the  handsome  Kaffir  Boom 
[Erijthrinn).  The  shops  do  not  make  any  emulous  appear- 
ance, but  they  seem  well  stored  within,  and  an  active, 
enterprising  spirit  pervades  the  community.  During  the 
last  year  or  two,  losses  from  bankruptcy  have  been  very 
great.  During  the  Kaffir  War,  the  influx  of  money  was 
exceedingly  great,  and  lands  were  purchased  at  enormous 
prices.  A  reaction  has  taken  place ;  land  has  fallen  in 
value,  and  parties  are  worth  much  less  than  they  were. 
But  a  revival  of  trade  is  anticipated,  and  if  peace  be 
preserved,  there  is  little  fear  but  that  prosperity  may  be 
secured.  War  may  be  profitable  to  a  few,  but  is  fatal  to 
the  prosperity  of  the  many. 

The  Wesleyans  form  the  principal  religious  denomina- 
tion in  the  place.  They  and  the  Independent  body 
constitute,  by  far,  the  most  influential  section  of  the  com- 
munity. The  foiTner  have  a  good  chapel,  which  is  well 
attended.  They  are  also  building  anew  and  very  spacious 
place,  ninety  feet  by  fifty  feet,  at  a  cost  of  about  £5000  or 
.i'fiOOO.  The  Independents  have  an  excellentchapcl,  of  which 
the  Rev.  W.  T.  Thompson  (late  Missionary  at  Philippolis) 
is  the  minister,  whose  predecessor  was  the  Rev.  Mr.  Locke, 
a  man  greatly  beloved,  and  eminently  successful. 

The  Baptists  have  also  a  chapel  in  the  town,  but  at 
j»resent  its  affairs  are  in  an  unsettled  state.  Mr.  Hay, 
their  minister,  has  felt  it  his  duty  to  retire  from  the 
chapel,  the  principal  part  of  the  members  of  the  churcli 
and    congregation   seceding    with    him,    and    leaving   the 


80  IIOTTICNTOT  CORPS  OF  CAPE  MOUNTED  RIFLES. 

building  in  the  hands  of  the  minority.  The  London 
Missionaiy  Society  has  also  a  chapel,  where  Mr.  Smith 
ministers  to  a  large  coloiired  congi'egation.  But  a  much 
larger  place  is  needful.  Their  present  chapel  might  have 
been  sold  lately  at  a  large  price,  and  a  more  spacious  place 
obtained  with  the  proceeds,  but  some  delay  occurred  in 
obtaining  from  Caj)e  Town  the  transfer  deeds,  on  which 
alone  the  sale  could  be  effected.  An  effort  must  yet 
be  made  to  raise  a  subscription,  and  secure  a  Building 
Fund,  so  that  ultimately  the  people  may  enjoy  a  place  of 
worship  capable  of  accommodating,  say  800  persons. 

During  my  stay  in  Graham's  Town,  I  had  a  long  con- 
versation with  Colonel,  now  General  Somerset,  who  holds 
a  high  and  influential  position  here,  and  who  is  recognised 
as  a  staunch  friend  of  the  coloured  people,  and  of  their 
legitimate  claims  and  rights.  The  colony  is  much  in- 
debted to  him  for  his  prompt  and  vigorous  service  during 
the  late  w-ar.  It  is  thought  by  many  that  his  promptness 
saved  the  colony — his  movements  were  so  rapid  and  suc- 
cessful. He  has  a  high  opinion  of  the  steadiness  and 
gallantry  of  his  men.  He  commands  the  Cape  Mounted 
Kifles.  They  are  Hottentots.  He  highly  appreciates  their 
docile  character ;  but  he  deems  it  most  essential  that  they 
should  be  under  constant  and  effective  superintendence. 
Well  trained  and  managed,  they  conduct  themselves  with 
excellent  order  and  propriety ;  but  neglected,  and  placed 
in  the  midst  of  temptation,  they  are  too  feeble  to  main- 
tain their  position.  They  have  not,  the  Colonel  thinks, 
any  large  amount  of  moral  power.  He  alluded  particularly 
to  the  snare  of  intoxication.  He  assured  me  that  for 
eighteen  months,  during  the  war,  and  while  having  the 
command  of  from  3500  to  5000  men,  he  had  no  cases 
of  insubordination — no  cases  requiring  punishment — which 
he  attributed  to  the  fact  of  there  being  no  "canteens" 
within  reach,  and  no  brandy  or  any  ardent  spirits  being 
permitted  to  be  introduced  among  his  men.  Now%  indeed, 
within  the  colony,  and  within  the  town,  he  finds  it  impos- 


CANTEENS.  81 

sible  to  prevent  the  evil.  So  many  canteens  are  licensed, 
that  the  men  have  easy  access  to  them,  and  the  vice  of 
intoxication  has  become  common.  He  has  now  sometimes 
one  hundred  cases  of  discipline  in  the  course  of  a  day, 
from  this  source  alone,  and  is  obliged  to  submit  to  the  evil 
of  having  a  "  canteen"  within  his  barracks,  as  a  less  evil 
than  that  of  allowing  his  soldiers  to  absent  themselves  in 
quest  of  the  "  grog-shojis"  in  the  town.  The  Colonel's 
testimony  goes  far  to  prove,  that  the  system  of  so  exten- 
sively granting  licenses  for  the  sale  of  ardent  spirits,  is 
fast  ruining  the  labouring  population  of  the  colony.  It  aids 
the  revenue,  but  destroys  the  men — their  character,  their 
self-respect,  their  morals,  and  their  health. 

There  is  a  native  village  at  a  short  distance  from  the 
to\vn,  where  several  Hottentots  reside,  and  at  a  short  dis- 
tance, some  Fingoes.  I  called  on  some  of  the  former. 
The  occupants  are  intelligent  men — industrious,  sober,  and 
deserving  of  encouragement.  But  they  are  anxious,  na- 
turally anxious,  as  to  their  position.  They  have  been 
encouraged  to  build,  with  the  promise  of  having  the  lands 
measured  out  and  secured  to  them.  This  was  a  promise 
made  by  the  late  Mr.  West,  subsequently  Governor  of 
Natal,  wliile  residing  as  Commissioner  at  Graham's  Town. 
On  the  faith  of  that  promise  they  have  built,  but  have  not 
yet  obtained  the  promised  security.  They  fear  to  go  on 
with  their  improvements,  and  others  also  are  afraid  to 
commence.  This  ought  not  to  be  :  the  people  should  be 
dealt  with  fairly,  kindly,  and  paternally ;  and  every  pro- 
mise made  to  them  by  the  Government  slujuld  be  strictly 
fulfilled. 

I  owe  it  to  the  spontaneous  and  kindly  feeling  of  the 
friends  in  Graham's  Town,  to  add,  that  they  did  me  the 
honour  of  holding  a  public  tea-meeting,  to  whicb  they 
invited  me,  and  which  was  very  numerously  and  rcspiict- 
ably  attended,  by  members  of  all  the  Christian  denomina- 
tions in  the  town,  and  gentlemen  of  the  highest  standing 
in  tlic;  (•()mmunity.     It  gave  me  a  favoural)l(!  impression  of 

G 


B'i  TEA-MEETING. 

the  social  character  of  the  people,  and  afforded  me  the 
opportunity,  not  only  of  hearing  the  sentiments  of  those 
who  spoke  in  the  course  of  the  evening,  but  of  giving  ex- 
pression to  my  own,  on  the  responsibility  of  British  colo- 
nists and  Christians  to  the  coloured  and  aboriginal  races. 


C  H  A  P  T  E  K    IV. 


NOTICES  OF  THE  COUXTRY DISTRICT   OF  VICTORIA NEUTRAL  TERRITORY 

MAKOMO BRITISH  KAFFRARIA FORT  BEAUFORT — UMX.ELO FIK- 

GOES ATTACK  ON  FORT    BEAUFORT,  DEATH    OF    HERMANUS DIFFI- 
CULTIES OF    MISSIONARIES — ^MESSRS.    READ BIRIvLANDS AMATOLA 

MOUNTAINS MR.  CALDERWOOD ' '  ALICE" "  LOVEDALE" MISSION  S 

IN   K.AFFIRLAND  TO  BE    PROSECUTED CHUMIE  MOUNTAINS BURN's 

HILL loss       of      COMMISSARIAT HOTTENTOT       COURAGE — KAFFIR 

CHARACTER "KNAPP's  HOPE" IRRIGATION AGRICULTURE  SUPER- 
SEDING WAR LIMITED  LOCATIONS -WAR  BREAKS  OUT KING    WIL- 

LIAM's     TOWN COMPANIONS MR.     BROWNLEE's    LOSSES,    NO    COM- 
PENSATION  CONGREGATION,  DESIRE     OF     IMPROVEMENT COLONEL 

MACKINNON MOUNT  COKE STATE    OF    KAFFIRLAND HOPES SUS- 
PICIONS  JAN    TZATZOE MR.    ROSS,    PERIE MR.  BIRT's    STATION 

YOUNG   men's    class AGRICULTURAL    EFFORTS CLASS    OF   NATIVE 

WOMEN HELP  FROM  ENGLAND. 

My  steps  were  now  directed  towards  British  Kaffraria, 
commonly  called  Katiirland,  and  to  the  Kat  River  Settle- 
ment. I  looked  forward  to  both  with  great  interest;  to 
the  former,  as  containing  an  immense  body  of  aborigines, 
brought  into  close  contact  with  the  colonists,  the  effect  of 
wliich  remained  to  be  seen;  and  to  the  latter,  as  the 
largest  existing  experiment  in  South  Africa  of  an  attempt 
to  elevate  an  aboriginal  race — the  Hottentots. 

I  had  to  proceed,  in  the  first  instance,  from  Graham  s 
Town  to  Fort  Beaufort,  afterwards  to  Alice  and  Kin<r 
William's  Town.  These  are  the  three  principal  towns  and 
seats  of  government,  respectively  in  the  district  of  Beaufort, 
tlie  division  of  Victoria,  and  British  Kaffraria. 


8-4  KEUTRAL  TEEraTORY — MAKOMO. 

It  may  be  of  service  to  introduce  here  some  brief  notice 
of  the  i>art  of  the  country  now  faUing  under  observation. 

The  district  of  Beaufort,  and  the  division  of  Victoria,  be- 
longed a  few  years  ago  to  the  Gaika  tribe  of  the  Kaffirs, 
and  were  occupied  by  them.  Up  to  1819,  the  Great  Fish 
Pviver  was  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  colony ;  and,  in 
fact,  for  seven  years  longer  we  put  in  no  claim  to  the 
country  beyond  that  river,  although  the  colony  had  some 
misunderstandings  with  the  Kaffirs  there.  In  1819,  war 
broke  out;  and  at  its  close,  we  arranged  with  Gaika,  our 
ally,  and  some  of  the  chiefs  wliom  he  had  conquered, 
that  neither  Kaffirs  nor  colonists  should  occupy  the  land 
between  the  said  Fish  Elver  and  the  Keiskamma.  That 
land  we  then  designated  "  Neutral  Territory."  In  1820, 
Sir  Eufane  Donkin  annexed  it  to  Albany,  a  colonial  dis- 
trict, and  called  it  in  his  proclamation  "  Newly-acquired 
Territory."  But  in  1823,  Lord  Charles  Somerset  withdrew 
that  proclamation,  and  again  made  the  Fish  Eiver  the 
boundary  beyond  which  the  colonists  were  not  to  advance. 
Many  Kaffirs  were,  however,  allowed  to  settle  on  this  piece 
of  country,  and  they  no  doubt  anticipated  its  ultimate 
restoration  to  them.  This  state  of  things  continued  up  to 
1829,  though  two  years  previously  the  Kaffirs  were  ordered 
to  retire  across  the  river.  It  was  in  the  middle  part  of 
1829,  that  Makomo,  a  Kaffir  chief,  a  son  of  Gaika,  was 
forcibly  expelled:  he  was  at  that  time  occupying  "Balfour," 
on  the  western  side  of  the  Kat  Eiver;  he  was  driven  with 
his  people  across  that  river,  under  pretence  of  punishing 
him  for  an  attack  on  the  Tambookies.  His  cattle  were 
seized,  and  his  kraal  set  on  fire  :  he  was  thus  expelled 
from  the  part  of  the  countiy  which  we  now  include  in  what 
is  designated  Beaufort,  and  forced  into  a  part  of  the  countiy 
now  called  Victoria,  and  which  at  that  time  we  called,  to- 
gether with  Beaufort,  the  Neutral  Territory.  On  the  ex- 
pulsion of  Makomo,  the  Hottentots  were  located  there,  in 
the  spot  called  the  "Kat  Eiver  Settlement,"  being  a  section 
of  the  district  called  Beaufort,  and  including  all  that  fertile 


BRITISH  K.\FFKAEIA.  85 

spot  which  is  watered  by  the  various  streams  that  fall  from 
the  Winterberg  into  the  Kat  River. 

The  division  of  Victoria  has  a  sea  coast  of  about  thirty- 
five  miles.  It  lies  between  the  Great  Fish  River  up  to  the 
point  where  Kat  River  falls  into  it,  and  the  Keiskamma 
up  to  the  point  where  the  Chumie  falls  into  it.  Its 
noi'thern  part  is  then  continued  between  the  said  Kat 
River  and  the  Chumie  uj)  to  Makomo's  Hill,  by  the  foot 
of  the  Chumie  Mountains  and  the  Kat  Berg  to  Gaika's 
Hill.  Beyond  that,  again,  it  has  a  detached  piece  of  terri- 
tory, beyond  the  Winterberg,  bounded  by  the  Zwarte,  or 
Black  Kei,  and  the  Klip  Plaats  Rivers.  Here  Mr.  Shep- 
stone  is  Assistant  Commissioner  for  the  Tambookie  Tribes. 
Beyond  this,  and  between  the  Zwarte  Kei  and  the  White 
Kei,  is  a  piece  of  country  over  which  we  claim  to  exercise 
autliority,  sometimes  called  the  Bushman  Country,  or  Ma- 
door's  Country,  and  here  Mr.  Joseph  Read  has  an  a})point- 
ment  as  Sujierintendent  of  native  locations  in  the  Bushman 
Country.  Altogether,  the  natives  falling  within  the  Civil 
Commissionership  of  Mr.  Calderwood  may  be  about  fifty 
thousand. 

To  the  east  of  Victoria  lies  "  British  Kaffraria,"  with  a 
sea  coast  of  nearly  one  hundred  miles,  having  on  one  side 
the  Keiskamma  and  Chumie,  and  on  the  other  the  Great 
Kei  u})  to  where  the  Black  Kei  falls  into  it.  From  that 
junction,  also,  the  Klip  Plaats  River  forms  the  Avestern 
boundary  of  the  northern  portion  of  British  Katfraria,  down 
to  Gaika's  Hill.  The  Amatola  Mountains  are  included  in 
this  British  Kaffraria.  It  has  also,  about  thirty  miles  beyond 
the  Keiskamma,  the  Buffalo  River,  with  its  Port  of  East 
London,  by  which  port  the  Governor  effects  his  communi- 
cations with  the  colony  during  the  present  Kathr  War. 
The  principal  town  and  seat  of  government  in  British 
Kaffraria  is  King  William's  Town.  Colonel  Mackinnon  is 
the  commanding  officer.  Beyond  the  Kei  is  Kaffirland, 
more  properly  so  called,  and  is  occupied  by  independent 
tribes  of  Kaffirs  up  to  Natal.     Albert  lies  on  the  north  and 


86  FORT  BEAUFORT. 

north-east  of  Victoria,  beyond  the  Stormberg,  and  its  north- 
em  boundaries  meet  the  Orange  Eiver  sovereignty. 

To  proceed  with  my  route.  Fort  Beaufort  is  not  more 
than  a  day's  ride  from  Graham's  Town.  I  set  out  rather 
late,  and  reached  it  only  on  the  second  day,  having  rested 
at  the  "  Konap"  for  the  night,  and  halted  for  a  short  time 
in  the  morning  at  Leeuw  Fontein.  Thus  far  it  is  a  dreary 
ride  over  a  plain  wholly  destitute  of  interest.  Afterwards, 
the  scene  changes  ;  hills  and  mountains  come  into  nearer 
view,  with  their  fertile  valleys  and  well-wooded  ravines. 
The  Rev.  J.  Gill,  of  Fort  Beaufort,  came  forward  to  the 
Konap,  where  we  met,  and  from  whence  we  proceeded 
together  to  his  residence,  crossing  the  Kat  Eiver  as  we 
entered  the  town. 

This  place  was  originally  what  its  name  (Fort)  imports, 
a  military  post,  and  one  of  a  line  of  posts  intended  to  pro- 
tect this  part  of  the  fi'ontier  from  Kaffir  invasions,  while  the 
colonial  boundary  was  the  Fish  River.  The  eastern  fron- 
tier of  the  colony  being  now  the  Keiskamma,  much  in 
advance  of  the  former  line,  Fort  Beaufort  has  ceased  to  be 
of  the  importance  it  was;  but  it  has  risen  to  be  a  consider- 
able town,  and  during  the  late  Kaffir  war  increased  largely. 
Prior  to  the  war  there  were  many  wealthy  and  flourishing 
farmers  in  the  neighbourhood,  especially  sheep  farmers, 
some  of  whom  possessed  from  two  thousand  to  eight  or  ten 
thousand  sheep,  the  wool  of  which  was  exported  to  England. 
These  often  expended  large  sums  of  money  in  the  town  : 
the  market  became  important — traffic  was  large,  shops  and 
stores  were  numerous,  and  the  spirit  of  enterprise  active. 
The  war  destroyed  or  arrested  all  that  prosperity:  many  of 
the  tradesmen  failed;  many  inhabitants  removed  from  the 
locality ;  buildings  had  been  multiplied  too  rapidly,  and 
property  was  incautiously  or  two  eagerly  invested,  at  high 
prices  in  land,  and  men  who  u-ouJd  be  rich  at  all  hazards 
"pierced  themselves  through  with  many  sorrows."'  The 
aspect  of  the  place  is  now  sombre  and  discouraging.  Hope 
remains  ;    it  is  said  that  things  have  reached  their  lowest 


UMXELO — FINGOES.  87 

point  in  the  downward  tendency,  and  that  ere  long  there 
must  be  gradual  and  steady  revival,  with  moderate  and 
continuous  prosperity.  But  all  things  must  be  extremely 
fluctuating  and  uncertain  on  a  border  where  peace  and  war 
alternate  in  such  rapid  succession. 

Mr.  Gill  has  two  out-stations,  Umxelo  and  Birklands, 
and  an  occasional  service  at  the  Cowie.  I  accompanied 
him  on  a  visit  to  Umxelo,  formerly  the  residence  of  Mr. 
Birt,  our  Missionary  now  at  Peeltown,  and  at  that  time  a 
Kafiir  station  among  the  people  under  the  chieftain  Botmen. 
The  chapel  had  been  burnt  by  the  Kaffirs  during  the  war, 
and  was  afterw^ards  occupied  by  British  troops,  and  in  the 
remaining  walls  of  which  are  seen  the  holes  cut  out  for  the 
discharge  of  muskets — sad  use  to  make  of  a  sanctuary  of 
peace  !  The  station  had  been  abandoned  for  a  length  of 
time,  but  was  lately  resumed.  The  locality  is  now  occu- 
pied by  about  twelve  or  fifteen  families  of  Fingoes. 

There  is  a  fine  stream  of  water  belonging  to  the  location, 
and  included  within  the  boundary-lines  of  Umxelo,  as  de- 
fined by  Mr.  Calderwood,  the  Civil  Commissioner.  It  is 
not  intended  to  permit  a  larger  number  of  natives  to  be 
located  there.  The  present  small  number  is  sufficient  to 
occupy  the  grazing  ground.  The  people  have  a  few  sheep 
and  goats,  but  they  are  not  an  agricultural  people.  We 
held  a  short  service  with  them  in  the  afternoon.  They  are 
poor,  but  they  were  dressed  in  European  clothing,  and 
looked  comfortable ;  I  saw  only  one  having  on  the  old 
sheep-skin  kai'oss.  We  had  met  several  men  on  the  road, 
wearing  simply  a  blanket  across  the  shoulder.  The  features 
of  the  people  arc  neither  inviting  nor  repulsive.  They  are 
large  :  the  eye  is  good,  calm,  intelligent,  and  benevolent; 
the  nose  is  large,  and  expanded ;  the  lips  large  and 
tliick ;  the  hair  consists  of  small  tufts,  resembling  that  of 
the  Hottentots.  The  language  is  a  dialect  of  the  Kaffir, 
and  contains  the  click,  and  which,  in  the  name  of  the  place, 
is  represented  by  our  letter  X,  perhaps  the  nearest  sound 
to  it,  but  yet  so  remote  that  no  one  could  guess  the   true 


88  ATTACK  OX  FORT  BEAUFORT. 

sound  by  the  chai'acter.  If  beautiful  at  all,  I  should  say  it 
is  ine.rpressibli/  beautiful. 

Fort  Beaufort  has  been  the  seat  of  an  attack  during  the 
Kaffir  War  of  1851.  In  a  letter  which  I  received  from  the 
Eev.  J.  Gill,  dated  8th  January,  he  states  that — 

"Early  on  the  morning  of  the  7th,  Hermanns,  -with,  some  500  or 
600  men,  attacked  the  to'w-n  shai-ply.  A  hurried  fire  was  kept  up  for 
about  twenty  minutes  between  the  Kaffirs  and  the  Fingoes,  our  allies, 
and  the  enemy  began  to  retreat.  About  forty  Kaffirs  were  found 
dead,  and  six  or  seven  Hottentots.  The  enemy  was  pursued  to  Blink- 
water  and  Fuller's  Hoek.  Many  head  of  cattle,  horses,  and  vai-ious 
articles  plundered  fi-om  the  neighbourmg  farmers,  were  recovered.  It 
is  thought  that  about  a  hundred  men  altogether,  including  Hermanns 

himself,  were  killed You  will  suppose  that  we  have 

been  in  much  excitement  and  no  little  fear.  Had  Hermanns  re- 
mained ti'ue,  we  should  have  had  little  to  fear.  His  baseness, 
together  ■\\-ith  the  reported  intentions  of  Sandilli  to  join  him  in  an 
attack  on  us,  made  us  feel  that  our  hves  were  in  jeopardy.  Most  of 
the  houses  are  now  barricaded,  and  the  women  and  children  have  been 
sleeping  at  the  barracks.  All  the  farmers  round  us  for  fifty  miles 
have  fled.  We  haA-e  no  market  and  no  trade.  Many  are  obliged  to 
enrol  under  Government  in  order  to  obtain  a  little  food.  Nearly  all 
our  roads  at  present  are  closed.  There  is  no  bread  to  be  bought. 
The  whole  meal  or  flour  iji  the  to\\Ti  will  not  last  more,  it  is  said, 
than  six  weeks.     Both  that  and  butcher's  meat  are  trebled  in  price. 

"  You  will  be  glad  to  know  that  all  the  people  from  Birklands  are 
here,  and  most  of  those  from  TJmxelo.  They  meet  with  me  in  the 
English  chapel  twice  on  Sundays  and  two  or  three  times  in  the  week. 
The  chapel  is  filled,  though  many  of  the  people  are  absent  attending 
the  cattle.  Our  day  and  Sunday-schools  are  being  kept  up  as  well  as 
possible.  .  .  .  ilay  God  be  gracious  unto  us,  and  make  us  meet 
for  our  day  !  " 

Since  the  above  was  written,  intelligence  has  been  re- 
ceived that  some  communications  had  been  opened  by  the 
troops  under  Colonel  Mackinnon,  and  it  may  be  Jwped 
that  supplies  have  been  obtained,  and  additional  forces 
spared,  to  guarantee  the  tow'n  against  another  attack. 

In  consequence  of  this  state  of  things,  the  expense  of 
this  Mission  station  will  fall  more  heavily  on  the  funds  of 
the   parent   Society  than  had  been  anticij^ated,  and  this 


DIFFICULTIES  OF  MISSIONARIES.  89 

much  to  the  regret  of  the  jMissionary  and  the  mortification 
of  his  friends. 

The  European  portion  of  Mr.  Gill's  congregation,  though 
limited  in  number,  had  promised  to  raise,  in  consideration 
of  the  Missionary's  English  services  to  them,  about  half 
the  amount  of  his  salary,  and  to  pay  his  house-rent.  This 
arrangement  would  leave  the  parent  Society  to  meet  only 
such  expenses  as  might  be  incurred  on  consideration  of 
Mr.  Gill's  services  among  the  Kaihrs,  Fingoes,  and  Hot- 
tentots. But,  amidst  the  serious  embarrassments  and 
unexpected  difficulties  which  have  arisen,  the  Missionary 
will  share  the  sympathy  and  support  of  the  Society. 
Neither  will  this  be  an  unique  case.  All  our  IMission 
stations  in  the  vicinity  of  Kaffirland  will  suffer,  and,  in  fact, 
all  within  the  colony  will  be  more  or  less  severely  affected 
by  this  disastrous  Kaffir  war.  This  is  just  one  of  those 
contingencies  which  demonstrate  the  necessity  of  the 
Society's  funds  being  kept  in  a  healthy  condition. 

During  my  stay  at  Foi't  Beaufort,  I  had  the  pleasure  of 
receiving  a  visit  from  our  friends,  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Read, 
senior  and  junior,  and  whom  I  had  not  seen  since  their 
visit  to  England  in  1836,  accompanied  by  Jan  Tzatzoe  and 
Andries  Stoffels.  It  was  exceedingly  pleasant  to  renew 
the  acquaintance ;  to  meet  a  Missionary,  after  nearly  fifty 
years'  labours,  in  almost  undiminished  vigour,  and  the  son 
treading  in  the  father's  steps,  bearing  the  heat  and  the 
burden  of  the  day  without  weariness  or  complaint. 
Arrangements  were  made  for  me  as  to  the  route  I  could 
most  advantageously  take  in  proceeding  from  this  locality, 
through  British  Kaffraria,  up  to  Madoor's  Country,  and 
back  again  to  the  Kat  River  Settlement. 

Some  of  the  leading  people  also  fi'om  Philippolis  came 
to  converse  with  me  at  Fort  Beaufort.  They  were  anxious 
to  obtain  the  services  of  Mr.  Read,  junior,  as  their  Mis- 
sionary, in  lieu  of  Mr.  Thompson,  who  had  recently  left 
tlicm  to  settle  over  the  Congregational  Church  at  Gra- 
ham's Town. 


90  MESSRS.  READ — BIKKLANDS. 

This  plan,  however,  of  dis-locating  Mr.  Read,  junior,  from 
the  Kat  Eiver,  could  not  be  accomplished  without  serious 
detriment.  I  knew^,  indeed,  he  would  be  invaluable  at 
Philippolis ;  but  he  was  already  so,  as  coadjutor  with  his 
venerable  father,  at  Philipton,  and  therefore  other  arrange- 
ments were  made  for  the  Griquas.  It  was  anticipated 
that  Mr.  Christie,  from  England,  would  be  with  them,  and 
with  that  they  were  abundantly  satisfied. 

On  leaving  Fort  Beaufort,  I  rode  with  Mr.  Gill  to  see  his 
exit-station  at  "  Birklands,"  where  Mr.  Calderwood  formerly 
resided.  The  location  is  now  occupied  by  a  number  of 
Kaffir  families.  It  occupies  a  pleasant  and  gentle  eleva- 
tion, and  commands  a  good  view  of  Fort  Beaufort,  about 
two  miles  and  a  half  distant.  The  people  are  building  for 
themselves  very  decent  houses,  instead  of  the  round  native 
hut.  A  chapel  is  in  course  of  erection,  where  we  held 
service.  I  gave  a  short  address,  which  a  young  native 
translated  into  Kaffir.  Mr.  Calderwood,  who  had  over- 
taken us  on  the  road,  on  his  w^ay  from  Fort  Beaufort  to 
Alice,  added  an  exhortation  in  the  native  language,  in 
which  he  appeared  perfectly  fluent.  About  one  hundred 
people  were  present.  A  cottage  is  also  building  here,  for 
Miss  Thompson,  from  the  "Glasgow  Society,"  a  lady  who 
is  laudably  devoting  her  time  and  energies  to  the  instruc- 
tion of  the  people. 

We  continued  our  ride,  and  reached  "  Alice"  the  same 
afternoon.  We  passed  through  some  highly  picturesque 
scenery.  The  view  of  the  "  Amatola"  range  is  exceedingly 
beautiful,  with  "  Gaika's  Kop"  prominently  in  view,  and 
partially  covered  with  snow.  This  is  the  mountain  range 
from  which  Sir  Harry  Smith  says  "the  treacherous  Kaffirs 
must  be  driven  for  ever,  and  exterminated! " 

In  accepting  the  office  under  Government  of  "  Civil 
Commissioner,"  Mr.  Calderwood  resigned,  of  course,  his 
connexion  with  our  Missionary  Society.  Hence  my  visit 
to  Alice  was  not  official.  But  I  received  from  Mr.  Calder- 
wood a  most  cordial  welcome,  and  remained  two  or  three 


"  Alice" — "  lovedale."  91 

days  under  his  hospitable  roof,  with  gratification  and  profit. 
I  found  him  possessed  of  the  heart  and  sympathies  of  the 
Missionary  still.  He  himself  had  not  sought  the  civil 
appointment.  It  had  been  urged  on  his  acceptance  by 
men  of  high  standing  and  religious  character.  The  step 
was  deliberately  weighed,  and  then  conscientiously  taken. 
His  office  is  not  a  sinecure,  nor  his  path  always  smooth 
and  easy.  He  has  gained  the  confidence  of  the  Govern- 
ment, and  not  sacrificed  the  esteem  of  all  the  good  men  in 
the  Missionary  field. 

The  town  of  "  Alice"  is  a  rising  place,  but  it  has  not 
more  than  forty  or  fifty  families  residing  in  it.  It  is  situ- 
ate on  the  extreme  border  of  the  province  of  Victoria. 
The  Chumie  River  runs  by  the  town,  and  sepai-ates  Vic- 
toria from  British  KafFraria;  the  Gaga,  another  stream 
passing  here,  falls  into  the  Chumie.  The  Chumie  is 
crossed  by  a  wooden  bridge  near  Fort  Hare.  This  Fort 
was  intended  for  fifteen  hundred  troops  ;  about  two  hun- 
dred only  are  there  now,  and  a  part  of  the  Cape  Corps 
Mounted  Rifles, — a  Hottentot  regiment. 

The  Free  Church  of  Scotland  has  a  Seminary  near 
here,  which  I  visited  with  Rev.  J.  Laing,  who  has  charge 
of  it.  It  is  called  "  Lovedale,"  and  receives  a  gratuity  of 
^100  per  annum  from  the  Government.  Miss  Harding, 
connected  with  a  society  in  London,*  is  also  here,  for  the 
purpose  of  instructing  the  natives.  There  arc  not  more 
than  some  six  or  seven  pupils  in  the  seminary,  except  a 
few  European  youths,  who  attend  for  education.  The 
building  is  large  and  suitable.  There  were  eighteen  pupils 
before  the  late  war.  Mr.  Weir  attends  to  the  secular 
department.  There  is  a  good  piece  of  land  attached  to  the 
Institution,  granted  by  the  Government  for  cultivation, 
say  about  twenty  acres,  and  ten  acres  for  the  use  of  Mr. 
Laing.  It  is  well  watered.  There  is  a  proposal  in  Alice 
to  bring  out  the  water  from  a  higher  part  of  the  Chumie, 
and  irrigate  a  large  piece  of  country  about  here,  carrying  it 
*  "  Society  for  Promoting  Female  Education  in  the  East." 


92  MISSIONS  IN  KAFFIRLAND. 

directly  through  the  town.  The  cost  is  estimated  at  £150. 
There  is  a  small  but  neat  chapel  here,  in  which  Mr.  Cal- 
derwood  and  Mr.  Laing  officiate  alternately.  It  is  well 
attended  on  Sundays. 

The  rocks  in  this  vicinity  consist  principally  of  sand- 
stone and  indurated  clays.  There  are  indications  of  iron- 
stone. Lime  is  also  found  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  a 
bed  of  blue  lias  seems  to  traverse  the  district  immediately 
across  the  Chumie.  It  contains  some  fossils ;  a  few  only 
have  yet  been  found.  The  Basaltic  Dykes  are  vast  and 
splendid  between  this  and  Fort  Beaufort. 

From  all  the  information  which  I  had  hitherto  been 
able  to  gather,  my  impression  became  more  and  more 
confirmed,  that  our  Society  would  not  be  justified  in  aban- 
doning Kaffirland  as  a  field  of  Missionary  labour.  Some 
parties  with  whom  I  conversed  thought  there  was  no  rea- 
son to  apprehend  any  further  interruption  from  an  out- 
break of  war,  provided  cautious  measures  of  defence  along 
the  frontier  were  maintained,  and  the  friendly  policy  of 
the  Government  pursued,  and  a  population  located  along 
the  borders,  whose  interests  should  be  identified  with  the 
presei^ation  of  peace.  It  was  regarded  also  as  an  import- 
ant and  favourable  circumstance,  that  the  direct  authority 
of  the  native  chiefs  over  the  people  was  so  much  reduced 
that  they  could  not  hinder  the  natives  from  locating  them- 
selves where  they  chose.  They  could  come  to  reside 
near  a  Mission  station,  without  endangering  their  lives, 
liberty,  or  property.  The  Mission  stations  are  under  the 
protection  of  Government,  and  the  lands  occupied  gi-anted 
by  the  Government.  In  addition  to  all  this,  the  Mission- 
aries urged  that  they  had  already  toiled  long  in  the  field  : 
the  fallow  ground  had  been  broken  uji ;  the  seed  of  truth 
had  been  sown.  They  awaited  and  anticipated  a  harvest. 
They  thought  also  that,  though  other  Societies  were  labour- 
ing for  the  spiritual  welfare  of  the  Kaffirs,  our  efforts  were 
required  also,  and  that,  in  fact,  an  augmentation,  and  not  a 
diminution  of  Missionaiy  effort  was  demanded,  "  so  that 


KNAPP's  HOPE — BUKN's  HILL.  93 

Ave  might  not  lose  the  things  Avhich  we  had  ah^eady 
Avronght."  To  all  this,  it  might  be  added,  that  the  Kaffir 
Missions  of  our  Society  were  not  on  a  large  or  expensive 
scale.  In  fact,  they  amount  but  to  three — namely,  King 
William "s  Town,  under  Kev.  J.  BroAvnlee ;  Knaj)p's  Hope, 
under  Kev.  F.  G.  Kayser,  aided  by  his  son ;  and  Peelton, 
under  Rev.  R.  Birt.  Mr.  Gill's  services,  also,  at  Fort 
Beaufort,  are  in  part  devoted  to  the  Kaffirs. 

After  weighing,  deliberately,  all  these  considerations, 
although  I  felt  some  misgivings  as  to  the  permanent  tran- 
quillity of  the  country,  I  came  to  the  conclusion  that  I  could 
not  recommend  the  Directors  to  withdraw  their  Missions 
from  tliis  portion  of  South  Africa.  Supposing  that  war 
were  likely  to  arise,  it  still  became  our  duty  to  diffuse  as 
widely  as  possible  the  great  truths  of  religious  instruction, 
as  the  best  means  of  preventing  the  calamity  and  of  pre- 
serving peace ;  and  if,  on  the  other  hand,  it  were  probable, 
as  some  believe,  that  peace  would  continue,  then  we  had 
the  fairest  jirospect  for  the  uninterrupted  prosecution  of 
our  work. 

I  proceeded  from  Alice  to  Knapp's  Hope,  the  Mission 
Station  of  Rev.  F.  G.  Kayser,  so  named  by  him  in  honour 
of  the  eminent  Dr.  Knapp,  of  Halle,  Saxony,  his  former 
tutor.  The  ride  from  Alice  to  this  spot  is  very  beautiful. 
The  scenery  is  magnificent,  embracing  the  Chumic  Moun- 
tains and  the  Amatola  range.  I  passed  on  my  way,  at 
about  six  or  seven  miles'  distance,  the  famous  "  Burn's 
Hill,"  where,  the  disastrous  losses  of  our  commissariat 
occurred,  in  the  Kaffir  War  of  184G,  when  sixty-three 
wagons,  loaded  with  valuable  property,  splendid  dresses, 
ammunition,  medicine,  cash,  &c.,  fell,  unfortunately,  into 
the  hands  of  the  enemy. 

It  appears  that  two  wagons  got  fast  in  tlie  drift  of  a 
i-avinc.  The  oxen  were  then  taken  out  of  tlie  binder 
one,  and  sent  forward  l)y  a  youth  to  assist  in  getting 
the  first  wagon  clear  of  tlie  t)bstruction.  A  Kaffir  came 
up    and    led    them    forward,    the   lad    su2)posing    that   he 


94  LOSS  Oy  COMMISSAniAT — HOTTENTOT  COURAGE. 

belonged  to  the  first  wagon.  One  wagon  was  thus  left  in 
the  road  without  oxen,  and  as  there  was  room  for  one  only 
to  pass  at  a  time,  the  whole  train  was  impeded.  Many  Kaffirs 
had  collected  in  the  neighbourhood.  They  saw  their 
advantage.  There  were  no  troops  close  at  hand  to  protect 
the  property.  The  Kaffirs  rushed  on,  and  began  climbing 
up  into  the  wagons,  as  the  natives  describe  it,  like  so  many 
baboons.  These  they  soon  plundered,  and  then  set  fire  to 
the  wagons  themselves.  The  powder-wagons  were  in  the 
rear.  An  officer  came  up  and  desired  the  driver  to  take  as 
many  cartridges  as  they  could  carry,  and  then  leave  the 
wagons  to  their  fate.  This  the  men  refused  to  do.  They  said, 
"  No  ;  if  we  abandon  the  powder-wagons,  all  the  ammuni- 
tion will  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  Kaffirs,  and  we  shall  be 
destroyed  by  the  very  means  they  steal  from  us :  we  had 
better  die  in  defending  the  wagons."  They  then,  by  a  des- 
perate effort,  moved  off  the  three  ammxmition  wagons  to  a 
little  distance.  In  doing  so,  one  broke,  and  they  removed 
its  contents  into  the  other  two.  The  Kaffirs  suspected 
there  was  something  of  great  value  there,  and  attacked  them 
accordingly.  The  Hottentots  fought  bravely,  defending 
these  wagons  from  eight  in  the  morning  till  eight  at  night, 
by  which  time  assistance  was  obtained  from  some  of  her 
Majesty's  troops  and  about  forty  of  the  Kat  Eiver  people. 
The  men  in  charge  of  the  wagons  behaved  remarkably  well 
on  the  occasion.  To  the  bravery  of  some  of  them  was 
owing  the  preservation  of  the  ammunition  ;  but  no  notice 
was  taken  of  their  meritorious  sei-vices — nor  was  any  remu- 
neration given  them  for  the  losses  they  sustained. 

This  was  an  immense  booty  for  the  Kaffirs,  obtained  by 
them  with  very  little  effort,  and  I  presume  quite  beyond 
their  own  anticipations.  Not  only  was  the  escort  quite 
insufficient  to  protect  such  a  valuable  team  of  wagons,  and 
especially  in  passing  through  the  country  of  a  most  vigilant 
and  crafty  enemy,  but  it  is  obvious  that  there  had  been  a 
foolish  contempt  of  the  power  and  promptness  of  the 
enemy,  and  an  equally  unwise  and  overweening  conceit  of 


KNAPP's  HOPE.  95 

our  own  superiority.  We  are  too  apt  to  treat  uncivilized 
men  as  though  they  were  mere  children,  capable  of  being 
imposed  on  by  gewgaws,  pageantry,  and  splendour.  This 
is  a  capital  mistake.  They  often  possess  great  shrewdness 
and  common  sense  ;  they  have  a  very  keen  insight  into  the 
motives  and  real  meaning  of  men  who  treat  with  them  ;  and 
instead  of  feeling  themselves  honoured  by  the  white  man's 
condescension  in  behaving  towards  them  as  childish  and 
inferior  races,  they  regard  it  very  sensitively  as  an  affront. 
It  is  at  once  more  just,  more  complimentary,  and  more 
politic,  to  treat  them  as  men — as  rational  and  intelligent 
beings.  To  treat  them  as  such,  is  one  way  to  induce  them 
to  act  as  such. 

On  reaching  Knapp's  Hope,  I  met  with  a  kind  reception 
from  the  Missionary  family  there,  and  attended  public  ser- 
vice that  evening.  The  station  is  on  a  very  limited  scale. 
The  chapel  and  Mission  premises  were  burnt  by  the  Kaffirs 
during  the  war  of  1846.  The  natives  affirm  that  this  was 
not  done  out  of  any  ill-will  towards  the  Missionaries  per- 
sonally, nor  to  their  instructions,  but  simply  as  a  measure 
of  self-defence,  so  that  these  buildings  might  not  afford 
defence  to  the  English  troops  with  whom  they  were  then  at 
war.  Their  chiefs  had  issued  positive  instructions  that  the 
property  of  the  teachers  should  not  be  injured,  and  to  some 
, extent  the  orders  were  faithfully  observed.  Mr.  Kayser 
V^^  built  a  small  cottage  adjoining  his  former  residence, 
apd  I  found  him  making  arrangements  for  rebuilding  the 
chapel.  Mr.  Kayser  is  a  self-denying  Missionary,  emi- 
nently devoted  to  his  work,  and  very  anxious  that  all  his 
family  should  be  consecrated  to  the  same  employment. 

I  pi'oceeded  with  Mr.  Kayser  to  visit  the  locality,  in  order 
to  judge  of  its  desirableness  as  a  Mission  station.  A  large 
piece  of  land  can  be  brought  under  cultivation  by  means 
of  irrigation.  This  can  be  effected  without  serious  dif- 
ficulty, as  a  water-course  of  about  two  miles  in  length 
already  exists  that  can  convey  the  water  from  a  part  of  the 
Keiskamma.     Yet  it  would  require  a  length  of  time  and 


96  IRRIGATION. 

mueli  labour  to  foi'm  this  into  a  station  of  any  considerable 
magnitude ;  and  as  to  its  creating  resources,  by  which  it 
might  support  itself,  that  seems  to  be  out  of  the  question 
for  many  years  to  come. 

It  may  be  worth  while  to  mention,  that  these  artificial 
means  of  irrigation  are  extremely  valuable  and  important  in 
Kaffirland,  not  only  as  a  means  of  securing  a  supply  of  pro- 
visions for  the  people,  but  by  that  very  circumstance,  as 
undermining  and  destroying  the  fatal  influence  of  the  rain- 
makers among  the  Kaffirs.  Drought  is,  moreover,  the  great 
som'ce  of  cattle-stealing,  trespassing,  and  war.  Let  the 
people  have  abundant  crops,  an  ample  supply  for  their 
families,  and  it  would  be  far  more  difficult  than  it  is,  for 
chiefs  or  prophets  to  arouse  them  into  a  collision  with  the 
British  Government. 

If  one-tenth  of  the  amount  expended  in  war  with  the 
Kaffirs  during  the  last  fifteen  years,  had  been  expended  on 
the  agricultural  improvement  of  the  covmtry,  my  conviction 
is,  that  the  other  nine-tenths  might  all  have  been  saved. 
Sir  Henry  Smith  and  the  Aborigines'  Protection  Society 
have  effected  soviething  of  this  nature,  but  far  more  is 
wanted,  and  the  results  will  be  in  proportion  to  the  ex- 
penditure, and  the  wisdom  of  its  application. 

It  is  clear  also  to  my  mind,  that  if  we  are  to  prosecute 
Missions  at  all  among  the  Kaffirs,  we  must  be  content  to 
do  so  on  a  small  scale,  and  amidst  manifold  discourage- 
ments. The  Kaffirs  do  not  and  will  not  associate  in  any 
large  numbers  in  any  given  locality.  Their  -s-illages 
(kraals)  embrace  only  about  five,  ten,  or  twelve  families 
each,  and  the  chief  reason  of  this,  not  a  want  of  social 
instinct — the  gregai'ious  principle  in  man — but  that,  being 
a  pastoral  people,  they  require  so  much  grazing  gromid  for 
their  cattle.  Many  of  the  springs  near  which  they  settle 
are  very  small,  and  do  not  admit  the  location  of  a  larger 
number  of  families  than  that  just  mentioned.  I  found 
other  Missionary  Societies  labouring  under  the  same 
difficulty.     And  it  is  a  serious  impediment  in  the  prosecu- 


WAR  BREAKS  OUT.  97 

tioii  of  the  Missionary  enterprise  among  them  ;  the  con- 
gregations are  necessarily  small ;  few  children  can  be 
collected  in  the  same  schools,  and  the  seminaries  can 
obtain  but  few  pupils.  Still,  the  Missionaries,  taken  gene- 
rally, are  more  sanguine  of  success  than  at  any  former 
period  in  the  history  of  the  Kaffir  Missions ;  partly  from 
the  reasons  already  assigned,  that  the  people  are  more 
independent  of  their  chiefs,  and  can  settle  down  in  locations 
under  British  protection ;  and  partly  from  the  changes 
already  perceived  in  their  habits.  They  cviltivate  more 
land.  The  men  are  seen  at  work  on  the  lands,  and  not  the 
women  alone,  as  formerly.  Several  Kaffirs  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  Mission  Stations  are  ploiufhiug  lands,  and 
raising  corn  for  sale ;  some  also  are  building  either  im- 
proved huts  (the  round  huts),  or  square  cottages,  and  some 
uf  them  possess  wagons  as  well  as  oxen. 

Since  part  of  the  foregoing  was  written,  intelligence  has 
been  received  in  this  country  of  another  outbreak  of  war. 
The  Kaffirs  have  collected  in  great  strength  against  the 
British  Government,  and  committed  great  havoc.  On  this 
melan(;holy  subject  further  remarks  will  occur  in  succeeding 
chapters  ;  it  is  needful  only  to  state  here,  that  Mr.  Kayser 
has  been  compelled  to  abandon  this  station  of  Knapp's 
Hope,  and  has  found  a  temporary  refuge  at  Alice.  He 
remained  up  to  the  last  moment,  and  retired  only  when 
life  appeared  to  be  in  imminent  danger.  In  a  letter  which 
he  then  addressed  to  the  Society's  Agent  in  Cape  Town,  the 
Piev.  W.  Thompson,  he  says,  "Poor  deluded  Kaffir  nation  ! 
I  mourn  for  thee,  for  thou  wouldst  not  believe,  and  the  time 
for  thy  destruction  is  at  hand."  Mr.  Thompson  most 
suitably  adds  to  the  foregoing  extract  the  following  re- 
marks, in  closing  the  Report  for  1850  of  the  Society's 
Labours  in  South  Africa  : — 

"  Our  hearts  bleed  for  Kaffirland.  Amid  the  din  and  the  cruelty  of 
savage  warfare,  we  acknowledge  her  noble  race  of  inliabitants  a.s  our 
icllow-men,  their  wretchedness  as  a  people  demands  our  deepest  coni- 
miseration,  and  we  mourn  over  the  cessation  of  tliosc  labours  destined 

H 


98  KING  WILLIAMS  TOWN — COMPANION'S. 

to  effect  tlicir  elevation  for  time  and  eternity.  Yet  even  tliis  dire 
calamity  may  be  OAerruled  for  good  to  them  and  to  the  colony. 
Although  '  cast  down,  we  are  not  in  despair.'  Xor  is  our  faith  at  all 
shaken  in  the  efficacy  of  Chi'istian  Missions,  and  in  the  final  triumphs 
of  the  gospel  in  this  benighted  land.  We  regard  it  as  no  proof  of 
the  failure  of  our  efforts — with  whatever  confidence  it  may  have  been 
urged — that  notwithstanding  the  labours  of  years,  by  the  agents  of 
the  different  Missionary  societies,  the  Kaffirs  as  a  nation  remain  un- 
converted, \mcivilized,  and  in  their  ferocitj^  unsubdued.  Proofs  of  a 
more  marvellous  fact  still  meet  us,  in  all  the  large  towns  of  this 
colony  and  of  our  father-land,  of  men  within  the  reach  of  every 
Christian  privilege  remaining  unbenefited  and  imblessed  thereby, 
breathing  a  spirit  not  less  sanguinary  than  that  they  condemn  iii  the 
Kaffirs  ;  and,  notwithstanding  the  powerful  voice  of  ptiblic  opinion, 
and  the  resti'aints  of  a  society  modified  by  the  genial  influences  of  the 
gospel, — not  more  truthful,  honest,  nor  pure  than  they.  And  shall 
we  then  charge  home  on  that  Societj',  or  on  the  Chiistianitj^  which 
gives  it  its  tone,  that  it  has  not  effected  the  removal  of  these  ■\'ices  ? 
"\Ve  are  no  apologists  for  the  defects  of  character  or  conduct  in  the 
coloured  man  ;  but  we  do  not  consider  them  aggraA'ated  because  he 
is  coloiu-ed.  Partaking  of  the  same  corrupt  nature  -with  ourselves, 
we  seek  that  he  may  enjoy  the  same  spiritual  privileges,  and  finally, 
through  DiAine  grace,  reach  the  same  heavenly  home.  We  ask  our 
friends  to  aid  us,  not  merely  by  theii-  pecuniaiy  gifts,  but  by  their 
sympathy  and  praj^ers." 

On  setting  out  from  Knapp's  Hope  for  King  William's 
Town,  the  principal  town  and  seat  of  Goveniment  in  British 
Kaffraria,  Mr.  Kayser  accompanied  me  some  distance  until 
I  overtook  my  wagon,  which  had  been  sent  forward  the 
same  morning.  Mr.  Kayser  then  returned,  and  I  con- 
tinued my  journey  amidst  the  fair  and  beautiful  scenery  of 
Kaffraria,  and  as  perfectly  tmmolested  and  without  fear  of 
interruption  as  I  should  have  been  in  any  part  of  the 
United  Kingdom.  The  time  of  my  leaving  Knapp's  Hope 
having  been  intimated  to  our  laborious  ]Missionary,  the  Rev. 
J.  Brownlee,  of  King  William's  Town,  he  kindly  came  for- 
ward on  horseback  to  meet  me.  and  then  accompanied  me 
in  my  wagon  to  his  residence.  And  here  I  may  just  re- 
mark, that  I  found  it  a  great  relief  to  the  tedium  of  my 
solitary  travelling  in  South  Africa,  to  be  thus  frequently 


MR.  BEOWXLEES  LOSSES — NO  COMPENSATION'.  99 

accompanied  for  some  distance  by  a  brother  ]\Iissionary. 
I  think  that,  out  of  the  eleven  months  occupied  in  my 
whole  journe}',  I  had  some  one  or  other  friend  to  associate 
with  me,  so  frequently,  as  tO'form  altogether  an  aggregate 
of  about  five  or  six  months.  This  alTorded  me  many  valu- 
able opportunities  of  gratifying  and  profitable  intercourse 
with  the  brethren. 

I  found  Mr.  Brownlee  residing  at  a  short  distance  from 
the  town,  and  near  the  bai'racks.  The  town  has  risen  into 
considerable  importance  since  the  last  war.  It  is  a  military 
station,  and  the  most  important  one  in  British  Kaffraria; 
Lieutenant  Colonel  Mackinnon  is  Chief  Commissioner  for 
the  whole  district,  and  resides  here.  Besides  the  military 
under  Colonel  Armstrong,  there  maybe  about  one  hundred 
families  resident,  and  a  few  Kaffirs.  The  Buffalo  Piiver 
runs  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood.  At  a  distance  of 
about  three  miles  the  water  has  been  led  out,  and  is  con- 
veyed by  a  water-course  to  the  town,  for  irrigating  the  gar- 
dens. This  work  was  commenced  and  carried  forward  bv 
Mr.  Brownlee,  and  involved  considerable  expense.  Its 
exact  amount  cannot  be  known,  as  Mr.  Brownlee  often  paid 
the  workpeople  in  food  instead  of  money,  and  much  of  his 
own  time  which  was  expended  on  it  was  of  course  paid  for 
by  the  London  Missionary  Society,  in  the  shape  of  salary. 
But  the  work  could  not  be  performed,  if  paid  for  now,  at  a 
less  sum  than  from  £-250  to  d6300.  Of  all  this  advantage 
the  British  Government  has  availed  itself,  and,  I  must  add. 
without  any  remuneration  to  Mr.  Brownlee  or  the  Societij.  Jt 
seems  to  have  been  taken  with  the  locality  of  the  town  as 
one  of  the  sites  held  by  the  Government  in  British  Kaffra- 
ria, and  of  which  the  Kaffirs  are  deprived,  as  one  of  tlie 
consequences  of  the  war.  Still,  I  cannot  see  that  these 
circumstances  should  deprive  a  British  suhject  of  j^crsonal 
property,  as  it  has  done  in  the  case  of  Mr.  Brownlee,  or  the 
Society  either.  Mr.  Brownlee  has  also  been  deprived  of 
his  dwelling-house,  garden,  and  chapel.  The  house  and 
garden  are   taken  by  the  Govcnnncnt,  and  allotted  to  tlie 


100  CONGliKCiATION' DESIRF.  DK   !.Mri!OVi;ME:N'T. 

Commissioner  as  his  residence.  The  fruit-trees  in  the 
garden,  all  planted  by  Mr.  Brownlee  himself,  yielded  a 
produce  worth  from  £50  to  £70  per  annum,  and  would  still 
yield  it.  The  walls  of  the  chapel  remain, — the  roof,  &c.,  was 
burned  by  the  Kaffirs  during  the  war;  the  site  and  the  walls 
arc  claimed  by  the  British  Government.  Mr.  Brownlee 
has  taken  another  site,  on  which  he  has  built  a  small  cot- 
tage, as  his  dwelling-house  ;  also  another  building  of  a  very 
humble  description,  which  serves  for  chapel  and  school- 
room ;  and  he  is  laying  out  again  a  small  garden.  He 
appealed  to  the  local  Government  for  indemnification  in 
these  losses.  Sir  H.  Smith  reiilied,  that  the  matter  was 
referred  to  the  Home  Government,  and  from  thence  no 
reply  has  ever  come.  Dr.  Philip  subsequently  applied  to 
the  Governor  for  redress,  and  received  the  same  unsatis- 
factory answer.  I  imagine  no  payment  in  money  will  be 
made  as  compensation.  Possibly,  a  grant  in  land  could 
have  been  obtained,  but  of  this  the  Missionary  would  feel 
veiy  jealous,  lest  the  acceptance  of  it  should  compromise 
his  disinterestedness,  and  with  that  his  usefulness,  among 
the  natives.  Kaffirs,  it  may  be  easily  supposed,  would  not 
look  with  a  very  friendly  eye  on  a  teacher  who  would  seem 
to  them  to  be  enriching  himself  by  the  spoliation  of  their 
lands.  The  Government  ought  unquestionably  to  have 
j)aid  a  fair  amount  for  the  property  they  obtained  from  a 
British  subject.  They  did  so  in  some  other  cases,  and  no 
reason  exists  why  they  have  not  done  so  in  this. 

A  large  number  of  the  Cape  Corps  attend  service  in 
Mr.  Brownlee's  rustic  chapel.  The  service  with  them  is 
conducted  in  the  Dutch  language  :  at  the  close  of  that 
service  the  Kaffir  congregation  assembles,  and  Mr.  Brown- 
lee preaches  in  their  native  language.  They  assemble 
again  early  in  the  afternoon.  The  Sunday  I  was  there, 
thei"e  might  have  been  about  150  persons  present  during 
each  of  the  three  services.  They  appeared  attentive  and 
interested.  Mr.  Brownlee's  church  consists  of  about  forty 
members.     It  may  be   mentioned,  as  some  illustration  of 


COLONKL  MACKINNON.  101 

the  desire  of  the  people  for  intellectual  improvement,  that 
they  take  in  ahont  fori y  copies  of  some  religious  newspapers 
or  magazines,  printed  at  the  Wesleyan  Mission  Press,  under 
the  care  of  the  Rev.  J.  Appleyard,  of  King  William's  Town. 

I  called  on  the  Rev.  J.  Appleyard,  Wesleyan  Missionary 
at  King  William's  Towai,  and  had  great  pleasure  in  accom- 
panying him  over  the  Society's  printing  estahlishment, 
under  his  effective  superintendence.  It  is  on  a  large  and 
highly  respectable  scale.  Its  whole  appearance  and  man- 
agement appeared  to  me  to  do  great  credit  to  the  zeal, 
ability,  and  business-like  habits  of  JMr.  Ajj^ileyard.  I  found 
several  natives  employed  in  its  various  departments,  as 
compositors  and  pressmen.  No  small  step  this,  in  the 
progress  of  civilization  ;  instead  of  the  assagai,  the  type — 
instead  of  the  club,  the  roller.  A  Missionary  printing 
establishment  in  the  midst  of  a  heathen  j^opulation  is  a 
fountain  of  life,  whose  waters  carry  purity  and  salvation 
wherever  they  flow.  This  establishment  in  Kafifraria,  the 
London  Society's  at  Kuruman  for  the  Bechuanas,  the  Paris 
Society's  in  the  Bassuto  Country,  the  American  Society's 
at  Natal,  and  another  at  Beyrout,  were  to  me  scenes  of  in- 
describable and  imperishable  interest,  such  as  I  would  not 
have  relinquished  for  all  the  charms  of  the  scenery  whicli 
I  enjoyed  during  my  whole  tour. 

At  the  time  of  my  visit  to  Mr.  Apjjleyard's  establishment 
he  was  carrying  his  "Kaffir  Grannnar"  through  the  press. 
This  he  has  since  completed.  It  is  published  in  a  hand- 
some volume,  and  reflects  much  honour  on  Mr.  Appleyard "s 
attainments  as  a  scholar,  and  his  extensive  acquaintance; 
with  the  Kaffir  language.  It  constitiitcs  a  ^aluable  addi- 
tion to  the  literary  labours  connected  with  modern  Protest - 
ant  Missions. 

During  my  visit  to  this  town,  I  waited  on  Lieutenant. 
Colonel  Mackinnon,  the  Commissioner,  and  found  him 
courteous  and  friendly.  He  strongly  recommended  estab- 
lishing a  mission  among  the  peo])le  of  Umliala,  a  chief 
wlio  resides  near  the  Kei  Piiver.     His  own  opinion  ol'  the 


10"2  MOUNT  COKE — STATE  OF  ]'L\FriIlLAND. 

existing  state  of  affairs  in  Kaffirlaud  was  favourable;  he 
thought  the  system  was  working  well  at  present,  that  all 
was  tranquil,  and  that  there  were  no  indications  of  a  change. 
Thefts,  however,  were  becoming  rather  more  numerous, 
and  which  in  part  might  be  accoimted  for  by  the  extreme 
poverty  of  the  people.  Owing  to  the  late  w^ar,  and  the 
present  drought,  all  were  impoverished. 

I  visited  the  Wesleyan  Station  at  Mount  Coke,  under 
the  superintendence  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Impey,  aided  by  Mr. 
Hewitson  (late  of  the  Natal  Mission  of  the  Church  of 
England,  under  Mr.  Owen),  now  secular  manager  of  the 
Institution.  I  met  there  also  Mr.  Sargent,  on  his  way 
from  Wesleyville  to  East  London,  mouth  of  the  Buffalo, 
where  the  Wesleyan  Society  intended  forming  a  principal 
station,  and  from  whence  Wesleyville  might  be  supplied 
with  a  catechist.  On  my  way  thither  we  called  at  Fort 
^Murray,  w  here  I  passed  half  an  hoxu*  with  Captain  Maclean, 
Commissioner  to  the  'Slambie  Tribe.  Mr.  C.  Brownlee 
(son  of  our  Missionary),  Assistant  Commissioner  to  the 
Gaika  Tribe,  visited  King  William's  Town  in  the  course  of 
the  day,  and  with  him  I  had  also  an  opportunity  of  much 
conversation  respecting  the  Kaffirs  and  Kaffirland. 

"  Mount  Coke"  promises  to  be  an  important  Missionaiy 
Station.  The  land  is  being  cultivated,  a  large  space  is 
also  being  laid  out  in  building-lots,  and  square  native 
houses  wall  be  built  on  it.  A  good  school-room  is  built, 
and  on  the  walls  hang  large  maps  for  the  instruction  of  the 
native  pu^Dils.  At  present  they  ai'e  veiy  few,  but  more  are 
shortly  expected. 

Nearly  all  Avith  whom  I  have  hitherto  conversed,  speak 
cautiously  yet  hopefully  of  Kafiirland.  Politically,  they 
said,  the  people  were  subdued  to  the  power  of  the  British 
Government.  British  authority  was  thought  to  be  para- 
mount, and  likely  to  remain  so,  if  the  existing  system  were 
continued  without  intern;ption,  and  permitted  to  work 
itself  well.  Troops,  it  was  added,  were  stationed  in  suffi- 
cient numbers  to  keep  the  people  in  check.    Commissioners 


JAN  TZATZOE.  103 

and  Assistant  Commissioners  jealously  watch  all  proceed- 
ings on  the  part  of  the  natives,  and  a  Native  Kathr  Police 
was  also  employed.  Still,  with  all  this  caution,  it  is  said 
the  Kaffirs  are  obtaining  hu'ge  quantities  of  fire-arms  and 
powder,  which,  though  prohibited,  are  smuggled  in  by 
traders,  and  introduced  to  a  great  extent.  It  is  highly 
probable,  too,  that  the  chiefs,  long  familiar  with  supreme 
and  independent  power  in  the  country,  bear  with  extreme 
mortification  the  present  state  of  things,  and  would  avail 
themselves,  if  an  opportunity  offered,  of  any  means  that 
occurred  to  regain  their  waning  authority.  Some  of  them 
are  quite  reduced  in  circumstances  and  impoverished. 
]\Iacomo,  a  wreck  through  intemperance,  has  resigned  his 
authority  to  his  sons.  Botman,  also,  has  but  little  power 
left.  The  peoi:)le  have  been  severe  losers  by  the  war,  and 
some  think  could  not  easily  be  induced  to  try  its  chances 
again;  besides  which,  many  of  them,  as  more  intelligent, 
and  more  thoroughly  under  the  influence  of  Christian  prin- 
ciple and  Christian  instruction  than  the  rest,  would  de- 
cididly  oppose  a  renewal  of  the  war. 

Accompanied  by  Mr.  Brownlee  and  his  son,  IMr.  C.  Brown- 
lee,  I  rode  over  to  see  Jan  Tzatzoe  and  bis  family.  He 
resides  about  four  miles  distant  from  the  town,  and  has  a 
fine  piece  of  land,  which  he  is  cultivating.  He  has  one  or 
two  wagons  and  spans  of  oxen.  He  has  also  rebuilt  a 
cottage,  and  though  he  lost  some  property  by  the  late  war, 
his  temporal  circumstances  are  now  better  than  they  were 
before  the  war.  He  came  over  to  see  me  on  Monday 
morning  at  King  William's  Town,  and  i  had  then  a 
long  conversation  with  him.  But  I  fear  he  still  retains 
much  of  the  "  apathetic"  character  that  belongs  to  the 
native, — the  want  of  an  internal  spring  of  action,  in  pur- 
suing what  is  good  and  noble.  He  committed  a  blunder  in 
the  business  of  the  Kaffir  attack  on  Fort  Peddie  ;  he  was 
wrong  in  taking  any  part  in  it,  tliough  perliaps  it  sliould 
be  stated  tbat  as  an  inferior  chief  lie  was  acting  only  under 
the  orders  of  his  superior  chief,  and  tliut  he  retired  from 


lOi  MR.   ROSS— I'ERIE. 

tlie  Fort  as  speedily  as  possible.  To  this  affair  it  was,  1 
presume,  that  Sir  Harry  referred  when,  reproaching  him  at 
the  close  of  the  war,  and  in  the  presence  of  the  people  and 
chiefs,  he  somewhat  miceremoniously  called  him  a  "  fool," 
— a  sufficient  reason,  as  Jan  Tzatzoe  laconically  observed, 
for  his  not  offering  any  opinion  on  the  state  of  affairs 
which  His  Excellency  the  Governor  had  rather  tauntingly 
asked  him  to  give. 

From  Jan  Tzatzoe  we  proceeded  to  "Pei'ie,"  a  Missionary 
Station,  under  the  care  of  Mr.  Ross  of  the  Free  Church. 
He  has  been  many  years  in  the  country,  and  speaks  with 
much  caution  as  to  his  expectations  of  success  among  the 
people,  and  as  to  the  prospective  tranviuillity  of  the  country. 
He  deei:)ly  laments  the  injurious  and  counteractive  character 
of  the  influence  exercised  among  the  natives  by  the  Euro- 
pean population  generally.  Many  of  this  class  come  to  the 
neighbourhood  of  his  station  to  fetch  timber  from  the  ad- 
joining forest,  and  who  are  not  only  habitual  drunkards,  but 
who  take  pains  to  induce  the  people  to  take  intoxicating 
liquors  also,  and  in  some  instances  fatally  succeed. 

I  left  King  William  s  Town  in  my  wagon,  and,  accom- 
panied by  Mr.  Brownlee,  proceeded  to  Mr.  Birt's  Station, 
about  ten  miles  to  the  north-east. 

It  is  sometimes  called  "  Yellow  Woods" — from  the  name 
of  a  neighbouring  stream,  and  which  is  so  called  from  the 
vicinity  of  many  fine  yellow-wood  trees.  The  place  has 
been  named  "  Peel  Yale,"  and  is  so  marked  in  the  maps. 
The  country  is  exceedingly  beautiful,  even  now,  in  this 
season  of  the  year,  when  all  is  dry  and  parched  for  want  of 
rain, — it  is  enchanting,  and  much  more  must  it  be  so  in 
the  rainy  season.  Hill,  dale,  valley,  ravine,  and  forest, 
constitute  the  variety  of  the  scenery. 

As  this  is  a  Station  recently  formed  in  connexion  Avith 
the  Society,  it  may  not  be  vmsuitable  to  give  a  brief  sketch  of 
the  circumstances  under  which  it  was  formed.  I  give  this 
principally  from  the  pen  of  Mr.  Birt  himself.  At  the  com- 
mencement of  the  Kaffir  war  in  1846,  a  Station,  called  the 


MK.  BIHT  S  STATION.  105 

Umxelo,  began  by  Mr.  Birt  in  1840,  was  broken  up.  It  had 
not  been  without  success.  About  fifty  native  members  of 
the  Mission,  and  their  families,  accompanied  the  Missionary 
when  he  retired  on  account  of  the  war  within  the  colonial 
boundaries.  They  were  considerably  scattered  through 
the  colony  during  the  protracted  war ;  but  by  the  time 
peace  was  proclaimed,  about  half  of  them  collected  again, 
and  were  very  desirous  of  entering  Kaffirland.  The  land 
they  formei'ly  occupied  was  now  taken  from  the  Kaffirs  and 
annexed  to  the  colony;  this  was,  therefore,  no  longer  a 
home  for  them,  for  they  were  of  one  mind  with  ]\Ir.  Birt, 
tliat  it  was  desirable  to  settle  again  somewhere  within 
Kaffirland,  that  their  InfiHence  miglit  not  be  lost  upon  their  ou-n 
nation.  Mr.  Birt  was  at  that  time  pastor  of  a  newly-formed 
church  and  congregation  in  Fort  Beaufort,  of  which  he  had 
undertaken  the  charge  while  he  was  shut  out  of  Kaffirland ; 
and  it  was  not  till  July  in  that  year  that  he  could  move 
into  Kaffirland,  in  consequence  of  there  being  no  minister 
to  relieve  liim  of  his  pastoral  duties  in  Fort  Beaufort. 

The  Imidonge  tribe,  among  whom  Mr.  Birt  laboured 
while  at  the  Umxelo,  were  very  desirous  of  his  settling 
again  among  them  ;  but  as  no  spot  could  be  found  in  their 
locality  sufficiently  suitable,  that  would  justify  the  formation 
of  a  new  station,  he  was  compelled  to  look  elsewhere.  It 
was  to  the  river  Nicemera  that  Mr.  Birt  looked,  on  account 
of  its  superior  advantages  for  cultivation  ;  and,  the  present 
site  having  been  fixed  upon,  in  the  midst  of  a  large  tract  of 
land  called,  after  the  lamented  statesman,  Peel  Valley  (and 
being  now  relieved  of  his  pastoral  duties),  he  gave  notice  that 
he  would  remove  thither.  Only  nine  men  were  willing  to 
go  witli  him,  there  being  a  lurking  prejudice  against  this 
part  of  the  country,  just  because  it  is  a  different  country  and 
climate  from  that  which  they  had  been  accustomed  to.  A 
good  report,  however,  very  soon  brouglit  in  all  tliat  were 
desirous  of  settling  in  Kaffirland. 

Mr.  Birt  was  so  fully  awai-c  of  llic  iiiipoi'tanrc  of  having 
such  a  nucleus  to  commence  with,  in  the  midst  of  a  Kafiir- 


106  Mr..  liirrr's  station'. 

land  population  ;  and  he  knew  also  the  value  of  many  of 
them  so  well,  as  evangelists  among  their  countrymen,  that 
he  considered  no  difficulty  too  great,  that  could  he  sur- 
mounted, in  order  to  accomplish  his  ohject  ; — and  in  this 
he  has  not  been  disappointed. 

The  first  thing  the  j)eople  did  was  to  erect  a  temporary 
cottage,  of  raw  hrick,  for  the  Missionary  and  his  family. 
They  then  set  about  building  for  themselves  square  cottages; 
but  the  want  of  a  house  for  the  worship  of  God  was  so 
much  felt,  that  they  agreed  to  lay  that  work  aside  and  com- 
mence a  chapel; — and  on  the  Jstof  January,  1849,  they 
entered  a  forest,  six  miles  distant,  for  the  purpose  of  hewing 
down  wood  for  its  erection.  This  was  set  about  with  a 
most  commendable  zeal  and  unanimity,  seldom  equalled ; 
and  certainly,  considering  their  low  circumstances,  truly 
surprising.  This  chajDel,  forty  feet  by  eigliteen  and  twenty  by 
eighteen,  of  T  shape,  with  a  porch  in  front  forming  a  vestry, 
stands  as  a  noble  monument  of  the  voluntary  principle. 
Money  was  collected  from  a  few  friends  in  King  William's 
Town  and  elsewhere,  for  the  sawn  timber,  doors,  windows, 
pulpit,  &c. ;  so  that  the  building  was  presented  to  the 
Society  complete,  free  of  any  expense  whatever. 

The  chapel  being  finished,  and  publicly  opened  in  June, 
capable  of  containing  260  persons,  the  people  commenced 
the  building  of  their  cottages  ; — but  this  is  hard  work  for  the 
poor  people.  Still,  however,  many  of  them  are  completed, 
and  others  nearly  so.  No  good  season  has  been  enjoyed 
since  the  establishment  of  this  Mission  ;  but  this  year,  IboO, 
is  truly  depressmg, — not  a  grain  of  seed  yet  ploughed  in. 
The  earth  is  parched,  and  the  season  for  sowing  is  going 
past,  at  least  so  far  as  millet  is  concerned,  which  is  the 
principal  food  of  the  countiy.  This  is  truly  appalling, — 
but  their  trust  is  in  God. 

The  congi'egation  has  been  generally  good,  and  has 
amounted  to  an  average  of  two  hundred.  Some  of  the 
natives,  including  head  men  of  villages,  have  abolished  all 
heathenism  in  their  localities,  and  send  their  children  to 


YOUNG  men's  class AGRICULTURAL  EFFORTS.  107 

the  Mission  school  with  the  utmost  regularity.  About 
sixty-live  children  attend  the  daily  school,  under  a  native 
master.  Another  school,  which  contains  thirty-four,  is 
under  a  Eui'opean  master,  where  they  acquire  the  rudi- 
ments of  English.  In  the  Sunday-school,  eighty  young 
persons  and  about  thirty  adults  attend,  instructed  by  twelve 
teachers.  There  are  fifty  members  in  the  church,  some  of 
whom  act  as  evangelists  in  the  suiTOunding  neighbour- 
liood  ;  and  they  have  adopted  the  liberal  resolution  of  sup- 
porting one  of  their  number  at  a  distance  from  the  sta- 
tion, as  a  teacher  and  schoolmaster,  subject  to  Missionary 
control,  but  to  be  supported  oitireli/  by  themselves. 

A  class  of  from  twelve  to  fifteen  young  men  happened  to 
be  present  at  Peelton  during  my  visit,  and  added  much  to 
the  interest  I  felt  on  the  occasion.  They  belong  to  the 
different  ]\Iissionary  stations  among  the  Kaffirs ;  they  are 
members  of  churches ;  they  are  making  a  stand  against 
those  customs  and  practices  of  their  countrymen  that  are 
evil,  or  which,  though  not  really  evil  in  themselves,  are 
associated  with  circumstances  that  are  so.  Some  of  these 
young  men,  it  is  hoped,  may  become  teachers  and  evan- 
gelists. They  meet  in  rotation  at  the  different  stations, 
keep  minutes  in  English  of  their  pjroceedings,  unite  in  prayer 
with  one  another,  and  exhort  each  other  to  stedfastness, 
improvement,  and  usefulness.  They  all  attended  Mr. 
Birt's  family  worship  on  the  morning  1  met  them,  and 
which  I  was  requested  to  conduct  in  the  English  language. 
This  gave  me  an  opportunity  of  addressing  them.  I  read 
the  twelfth  chapter  to  the  Romans,  and  took  occasion  to 
press  various  duties  on  them  as  there  urged  by  the  apostle, 
and  which  1  thought  were  specially  adapted  to  their  cir- 
cumstances. 

I  walked  witli  Mr.  Birt,  in  tlie  course  of  the  morning,  to 
see  the  plouglicd  lands,  and  tbe  plantations  of  the  people 
on  the  station.  Here  are  all  the  signs  of  industry  and  im- 
provement, and  the  peo^jle  are  themselves  evidently  begin- 
ning to  appreciate  their  advantages.     Several  liouses,  of  a 


108  CLASS  OF  NATIVK  WOMKX. 

very  convenient  and  comfortable  structure,  are  in  course  of 
erection,  consisting  of  poles  and  plaster  (wattle  and  dab). 
These  Avill  supersede  the  native  circular  huts.  A  large 
quantity  of  land  is  capable  of  cultivation,  and  many  Kathr 
families  may  be  encouraged  to  come  and  locate  themselves 
here.  Mr.  Birt  is  leading  out  a  stream,  to  irrigate  a  piece 
of  land  near  his  residence,  part  of  which  will  be  made  into 
a  garden.  Under  his  instructions,  some  of  the  people 
raise  vegetables,  and  dispose  of  them  for  their  own  benefit 
in  King  William's  Town.  They  seem  only  to  require 
temporary  help,  and  friendly  encouragement,  and  in  a 
short  time  there  will  be  an  industrious,  intelligent,  and 
prosperous  community  here.  The  more  such  communities 
can  be  formed  and  fostered,  the  more  facilities  are  created 
for  the  diffusion  of  the  Gospel,  and  the  sounder  the  guaran- 
tee for  the  continuance  of  peace  in  the  country. 

Mrs.  Birt  has  a  class  of  native  women  ;  they  work  under 
her  instructions,  and  make  various  articles  of  dress,  which 
are  sold  in  the  colony,  and  by  the  produce  of  which,  they 
w^ere  intending  to  defray  the  expenses  of  the  erection  of  a 
school-house  on  the  station,  where  their  children  might  be 
instructed.  About  twenty  women  were  present  the  after- 
noon I  visited  the  class ;  all  were  comfortably  dressed  in 
European  clothing,  and  appeared  sensible,  diligent,  and 
sober-minded  women.  I  gave  them  a  brief  address,  with 
the  view  of  encouraging  them  in  their  laudable  efforts,  and 
Mr.  Birt  kindly  acted  as  my  interpreter.  I  distributed 
some  articles  among  them,  which  I  had  brought  from 
England,  kindly  supplied  by  friends  there,  and  wished  I 
could  have  supplied  their  great  want  of  needles ;  but 
I  am  sure  that  many  ladies  in  England  would  most 
gladly  do  so,  if  they  knew  how  much  they  were  needed, 
and  by  what  means  they  could  forward  them,*  How 
easily  and  how   extensively   the  benevolence   and  intelli- 

*  The  Secretaries  of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  Blomfield- 
street,  Finsbury,  will  readily  take  charge  of  gifts  of  this  kind,  and 
which  are  always  acceptable  at  Missionary  stations. 


ANECDOTE  OF  A  KAFFIR  YOUNG  WOMAN.  109 

gence  of  England  may  promote  the  improvement  of  these 
native  tribes,  it  is  impossible  to  calculate.  Our  super- 
fluities could  supply  all  their  necessities,  and  their  eleva- 
tion would  be  a  reward  poured  into  our  bosoms. 

While  conversing  one  day  with  Mr.  Birt,  he  related  to 
me  a  very  pleasing  instance  of  the  firm,  but  gentle  and 
forgiving  temper  of  a  Kaffir  young  woman.  She  had  re- 
nounced her  Kaffir  dress  and  heathen  customs,  put  on 
European  clothing  as  a  sign  of  the  change,  and  attended 
instruction.  Her  brother,  still  a  heathen,  fetched  her  to 
accompany  him  to  a  heathen  dance.  She  refused.  He 
fetched  a  stick,  and  threatened  he  would  compel  her  to 
accompany  him.  He  beat  her,  tore  off  her  clothes,  and 
again  beat  her  till  the  stick  broke.  She  never  winced,  nor 
uttered  a  cry,  nor  a  word  of  reproach.  He  went  to  procure 
another  stick  ;  native  women  interposed  and  rescued  her — 
they  thought  she  had  suffered  enough.  He  then  covered 
her  with  some  heathen  dress,  and  then  she  wept  and 
sobbed  bitterly,  as  though  she  was  returned  back  to 
heathenism.  "Why  didn't  you  cry  before?"  said  her 
brother ;  "  when  I  beat  you,  you  Avere  silent ;  now  I  dress 
you,  you  weep!"  Some  time  rolled  by,  and  the  brother 
came  again  to  visit  her.  He  would  not  enter  the  hut ;  he 
was,  perhaps,  asliamed  of  his  conduct ;  he  might  have  met 
with  reproach.  No;  he  mistook  her;  he  had  not  yet 
learned  Christianity.  She  could  forgive ;  she  went  out 
and  met  him  at  the  entrance,  gave  him  her  hand,  and  with 
it  a  sister's  kiss.  That  subdued  him.  Woman's  tender- 
ness conquered  this  untamed  Kaffir,  and  she  continued 
her  attendance  on  the  instructions  of  the  Missionarv.  I 
called  on  her  in  ^company  with  Mr.  Birt.  I  adminMl  her 
for  her  patient  and  amiable  spirit.  I  wished  her  ninnv 
blessings,  and  I  was  delighted  to  leave  witli  her  a  triiliii._^r 
present  as  a  token  of  my  esteem. 


C  H  A  P  T  E  E    V. 

GERMAN  MISSION  STATION,  BETHEL MADOOR's  STATION,  FREEMANTON 

REMEDY  AGAINST  AVARICE — TREATMENT   OF   MADOOR TAMBOOIvIES 

KAFFIR     ARGUMENT,      aVIT-RENT LETTERS      FROM      MADOOR 

SHILOH,      MORAVIAN     STATION SELF-SUPPORTING LAND     CULTI- 
VATED  ATTACKED   IN  1847,    MAJOR   HOGG OUR  ALLIES PROCEED 

TOWARDS  THE  KAT  RIVER MESSRS.  READ LETTERS — SNOW  STORM 

COLD night's    ACCOMMODATION ROADS    DIFFICULT SPLENDID 

VIEW WAR— ARRIVAL  AT  PHILIPTON MRS.  READ, 

It  was  niv  intention  to  have  j)roceeded  at  once  to  the 
"  Kat  River  Settlement,"'  on  leaving  Peelton  ;  but  some  im- 
portant out-stations  having  been  formed  by  Messrs.  Eead 
in  Tambookie  land,  they  m-ged  me  to  pay  these  a  visit 
before  coming  to  Philipton.  On  leaving  Peelton,  I  ac- 
cordingly took  a  northerly  direction,  and  reached,  in  the 
course  of  the  first  evening,  the  German  Mission  Station, — 
"Bethel,"  eighteen  miles  north  of  Mr.  Bh-t's.  Mr.  Birt 
had  accompanied  me  in  my  wagon.  We  were  cordially 
welcomed  and  entertained  by  the  brethren  at  Bethel. 
Messrs.  Lieflfeldt  and  Korpf.  This  station  was  in  a  veiy 
flourishing  condition  pi-evious  to  the  Avar  of  1846  ;  it  is 
now  only  just  beginning  to  reAive.  The  situation  is  ex- 
tremely advantageous ;  there  is  a  noble  stream  of  water 
running  by  the  Institution,  and  it  is  surrounded  by  extensive 
lands,  capable  of  cultivation.  The  former  chapel,  dweUing- 
houses,  smithery,  &c.,  were  all  burned  down  during  the  war. 
The  Missionaries  at  present  are  all  actively  employed  in 
erecting  tolerably  substantial  cottages.     A  chapel  is  built, 


J 


MAD OOR's  STATION.  Ill 

water-courses  are  laid  out,  gardens  are  planted,  the  natives 
are  ploughing,  and  things  begin  to  Avear  an  improved  and 
encouraging  aspect.  But  all  this  is  yet  incipient.  The 
people  are  extremely  poor.  This  part  of  the  country  being 
on  the  high-road  through  Kaffirland,  suffered  more  severely 
from  the  war  than  many  other  places ;  the  people  fled  to 
save  their  lives,  and  the  houses  which  they  left,  cattle,  com, 
and  all  they  possessed,  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  troops. 

It  occupied  me  several  days  during  the  w^eek  to  reach 
the  Bushmen's  Settlement  in  Madoor's  country.  ]\Ir.  Birt 
and  Mr.  Croft  accompanied  me  some  distance  from  Bethel. 
]\Iessrs.  Lieffeldt  and  Rein  (a  Missionary  associated  with 
^Ir.  Scholtshuis  at  Itemba),  accompanied  me  as  far  as  the 
Kolong.  I  reached  the  banks  of  the  Tomaas  River,  a  con- 
siderable stream,  running  east  and  south-east  of  the  Wind- 
vogel  Berg,  and  afterwards  crossed  the  Zwarte  Kei.  Mr. 
James  Read  of  the  Kat  River  met  me,  by  appointment,  and 
Ave  soon  aftenvards  fell  into  company  with  ]\Ir.  Calderwood 
and  Mr.  Shepstone,  interpreter  to  Government  for  the 
Gaika  tribes,  who  was  accompanying  him.  Next  day,  after 
out-spanning  and  resting  three  times,  we  reached  about  nine 
o'clock  in  the  evening  the  kraal  or  village  of  Madoor.  As 
this  spot  is  not  laid  down  in  any  map  yot  publislied,  I  do 
not  know  its  exact  distance  from  King  William's  Town. 
It  cannot  be  less  than  120  miles.  There  is  nothing  in  this 
part  of  the  countrj-^  to  interest  a  traveller.  It  consists  of 
dreary  and  mountainous  elevations  and  depressions  of 
interminable  sandstone,  relieved,  occasionally,  by  basaltic 
dykes.  I  saw  no  wood,  nor  smiling  vegetation  of  any  kind. 
It  seemed  to  be  a  locality  just  similar  to  that  which  John 
Campbell  described,  when  he  said  to  Mr.  Motfat,  "  It  would 
need  that  a  man  should  have  a  good  pair  of  spectacles  to 
find  a  blade  of  grass  here  !  "  The  population  is  exceod- 
ingly  spare,  and  the  cattle  extremely  few. 

Madoor's  station  consists  of  a  few  ]\\\t<.  Tlicre  is  a  small 
chapel  also,  which  was  built  before  the  late  war,  and  which 
was  not  destroyed  by  theTambookies.  Madoor  took  })art  with 


112  MADOOr's  STATION. 

the  Government  against  the  Tambookies  and  the  Kaffirs. 
He  has  about  300  men  under  his  jurisdiction,  including 
Bushmen,  Hottentots,  Fingoes,  &c.,  and  several  coming 
into  his  country  from  the  neighbouring  tribes.  With  him 
they  hoped  to  find  an  asylum,  when  in  difficulty  them- 
selves, on  account  of  charges  of  witchcraft  brought  against 
them  among  their  ot\ti  peojile.  Madoor  is  pleased  with 
these  accessions  to  his  j)eople,  as  they  not  only  add  to  his 
importance  as  a  petty  chief,  but,  by  augmenting  his  popula- 
tion, form  a  greater  security  against  the  occasional  inva- 
sions and  occupation  of  part  of  his  country,  by  the  tribes  in 
his  vicinity,  who  trespass  there  for  the  sake  of  the  grass 
and  water  that  may  be  found.  He  is  a  man  of  about  sixty 
years  of  age.  His  family  is  gi'own  up.  Some  are  living 
on  the  same  spot  with  him.  They  appear  a  delicate  and 
feeble  race.  He  wears  an  old  regimental  great-coat,  and 
a  military  cap  not  improved  by  long  service.  He  told  me 
"  he  was  glad  to  see  me,  and  yet  ashamed  to  be  found  in 
such  poor  circumstances,  and  that  he  had  not  made  gi'eater 
progress."  The  war  has  been  a  great  interruption  to  his 
people.  He  is  now  ploughing  and  cultivating  a  good  piece 
of  land.  The  valley  in  the  vicinity  of  his  village  is  well 
watered,  and  could  be  very  extensively  imgated.  INIadoor 
knows  but  little  of  Dutch.  He  speaks  cliiefly  in  the  Bush- 
man language.  My  conversation  with  him  was  conducted 
through  Mr.  James  Bead,  who  conveyed  it  in  colloquial 
Dutch  to  a  daughter  of  Madoor,  and  she  to  her  father  in  his 
ovvai  dialect,  which  is  identified  with  the  Hottentot  language. 

A  considerable  number  of  children  came  to  our  wagon 
while  we  were  outspanning  in  the  course  of  our  journey  to 
this  place,  all  of  whom  had  been  deprived  of  the  first  joint 
of  the  third  finger  on  the  right  hand.  This  had  been  done 
in  compliance  with  an  established  custom  of  the  country, 
and  to  prevent,  it  was  said,  the  children  from  becoming 
avaricious  !  I  question  whether  this  remedy  would  be 
found  effectual  in  Europe. 

I  am  not  conscious  of  any  great  elation  in  remarking 


FBEEM ANTON.  113 

here,  en  passant,  that,  having  paid  MaJoor  a  visit,  he  wished 
his  village  should  be  called  after  my  name,  and  accord- 
ingly, it  has  been  designated  "Freemanton."  How  long 
it  may  be  destined  to  sm-vive,  I  know  not.  Many  greater 
names  have  perished  in  the  history  of  the  world,  and,  I 
"guess,"  that,  amidst  the  changes  now  transpiring  among 
the  native  tribes  of  South  Africa,  Freemanton  will  not  long  be 
remembered.  There  is  no  dukedom  nor  earldom  attached 
to  it,  nor  any  estate  for  the  advantage  of  my  "  heirs  and 
descendants."  I  dare  say  I  might  have  obtained  a  few 
acres  if  I  had  asked  for  them,  but  I  was  not  ambitious  of 
the  honour. 

However,  humour  apart,  I  was  glad  to  find  here  a  rem- 
nant of  a  race  once  numerous  in  South  Africa,  though  now 
rapidly  becoming  extinct.  The  few  of  them  that  remain 
seem  to  prefer  their  present  precarious  mode  of  subsistence, 
living  in  the  forests  and  the  rocks,  and  procuring  game  by 
means  of  their  poisoned  arrows,  to  any  other  manner  of 
life.  To  them,  it  is  free  and  independent  and  sweet.  It 
is  with  difficulty  they  can  be  prevailed  on  to  abandon  this 
nomadic,  wandering,  not  to  say  lawless,  mode  of  life,  and 
settle  down  to  the  quiet  cultivation  of  the  lands  as  peaceful 
villagers. 

For  himself,  however,  Madoor  told  me  that,  ])assionately 
fond  as  he  was  of  hunting  game,  he  had  not  even  once 
been  out  since  he  came  and  took  up  his  abode  in  the  vil- 
lage, subsequently  to  the  late  war.  He  regularly  attends 
the  sen'ices  at  the  chapel,  and  encourages  his  jjeople  to  do 
so,  and  displays  as  much  interest  in  all  that  pertains  to 
their  social  improvement,  the  cultivation  of  their  land,  and 
their  building  better  houses,  as  could  reasonably  be  ex- 
pected from  a  man  trained  as  he  has  been. 

This  Bushman  Station  was  commenced  about  ten  years 
ago.  A  benevolent  project  was  at  that  time  formed  l>y  the 
Missionaries  and  their  friends  at  l'liili|it()ii,  in  (lie  Kat 
Piiver  Settlement,  to  try  and  colbu-t  some  of  those  Jiush- 
jnen  from  the  mountain  tops  and  fastnesses,  and  to  jjersuade 

I 


114  FEEEMANTON. 

them,  if  possible,  to  locate  themselves  in  some  suitable 
part  of  the  country,  where  they  might  be  instracted  and 
become  a  civilized  community.  Parties  went  in  search  of 
them,  and,  succeeding  in  their  plan,  brought  them  to  the 
spot  now  designated  Freemanton.  Two  native  teachers 
were  then  sent  to  reside  with  them,  one  as  their  religious 
instructor,  the  other  to  assist  in  conducting  their  seculai" 
affairs,  teaching  them  how  to  dig  and  plough  and  sow  their 
lands,  and  to  build  their  huts.  These  two  men  having  re- 
ceived a  simple  outfit,  together  with  a  plough  bought  at 
the  expense  of  the  good  people  at  Philipton,  and  having 
also  been  lent  a  span  of  oxen,  they  set  out  on  their  mission 
— their  praiseworthy  enterprise.  A  school  Avas  formed 
consisting  of  seventy  children ;  a  Christian  church  has  been 
formed  and  several  Bushmen,  Fingoes,  and  other  natives 
have  been  added  to  it. 

During  the  war  of  1846-7,  the  people  of  the  station, 
feeble  as  they  may  seem,  and  forgotten  as  their  services 
may  now  be,  were  able  to  render  considerable  service  to 
the  colony.  They  succeeded  in  repelling  the  enemy  from 
that  quarter,  in  doing  which  they  sacrificed  nearly  all  their 
property,  and  received  in  return  the  warm  commendations 
of  the  Governor. 

While  conversing  on  one  occasion  with  Madoor,  I  asked 
him  what  had  formerly  been  his  thought  and  feelings  as  to 
God  and  the  world  around  him,  and  a  future  state,  before 
he  became  acquainted  with  jNIr.  Read,  the  first  Missionaiy 
whom  he  knew,  and  who  has  been  his  steady  friend. 
The  poor  old  man  unaffectedly  rejilied,  that  he  had  had 
no  thoughts  and  no  knowledge  whatever.  That,  as  to 
God,  he  had  heard  indeed  that  there  was  a  man  up  above, 
somewhere,  up  in  heaven, — but  who,  or  what  he  was,  how 
he  came  there,  and  w^hat  he  did,  he  never  knew  nor  in- 
quired. He  said,  "  I  was  as  one  of  the  wild  beasts  around 
me  ;  I  was  fully  employed  in  finding  food  here  or  there, 
and  supposed  that  when  we  died,  that  was  the  utter  end 
of  ovir  existence.     And  now,"  said  he,   "  it  seems  to  me 


VISITS  AT  M.VDOOB's  STATION.  115 

wonderful  that  Mr.  Kead  should  find  me, — in  some  way ; 
I  cannot  tell  how  or  why  ;  and  now  I  am  here  residing  in 
the  village,  my  family  and  people  round  me,  my  land  cul- 
tivated, and  we  having  the  great  privilege  of  hearing  God's 
Word,  and  our  children  instructed." 

Umjeki,  an  Amaponda  Chief,  came  with  some  of  his 
people  to  pay  me  a  visit.  He  had  desired  to  be  informed 
when  I  an-ived,  and  Madoor  had  sent  him  word  imme- 
diately. He  had  evidently  been  a  man  of  powerful  stature, 
— almost  gigantic.  He  was  formerly  a  renowned  warrior, 
and  an  exceedingly  j)'>'oud  man.  It  seems  that  one  of  his 
sons  has  acted  the  part  of  an  Absalom,  stolen  the  hearts 
of  the  people,  and  obtained  the  supreme  authority  over  his 
tribe.  This  has  humbled  the  warrior,  and  he  is  now  a 
quiet  and  subdued  sort  of  being, — though  capable,  I  should 
think,  of  being  roused  and  of  acting  a  fierce  part  again,  if 
called  out  by  circumstances.  He  expressed  his  earnest 
desire  to  have  a  teacher  appointed  to  his  station.  I  wished 
our  funds  would  enable  us  to  supply  such  men  with  Mis- 
sionaries or  native  teachers. 

One  of  the  people  who  met  me  here  at  the  village  was  a 
native  named  Makabana.  I  hoped  to  meet  him  again  at 
Philipton.  He  is  a  man  of  fine  character,  decision,  in- 
telligence, and  usefulness.  He  supports  himself  by  his 
industry,  but  devotes  much  of  his  time  to  the  instruction 
of  the  people.  He  is  a  Fitcani,  and  belonged  to  the  tribe 
that  was  scattered  and  destroyed  by  the  Mantatees  and  by 
the  colonial  Government.  It  is  said  to  have  been  a 
powerful  and  warlike  tribe.  The  kraal  in  which  their 
soldiers  met  was  so  large  as  to  take  five  spear-throws  to 
reach  across  it.  Women  were  not  permitted  to  enter  it, 
and  the  people,  as  they  passed  near,  were  required  to  stoop  ; 
none  were  permitted  to  walk  by  erect.  He  said  their  suf- 
ferings were  sometimes  so  severe,  from  the  dreadful  famine 
to  which  they  were  exposed  after  the  ravages  of  war,  and 
the  I0S.S  of  their  crops,  that  tliey  were  reduced  to  the  hor- 
rible necessity  of  cannibalism.     They  first  devoured  all  the 


no  CANNIBALISM. 

dogs  they  could  find,  and  then  human  heings.  He  said, 
they  never  ate  tlie  members  of  their  own  famihes,  but  they 
exchanged  them  Avith  one  another  for  the  purpose  of 
devouring  them,  just  as  they  would  exchange  sheep.  He 
is  quite  aware  of  the  fact  that  some  of  the  Bassutos  have 
also  been  cannibals,  but  he  thinks  that,  in  both  cases,  the 
revolting  custom  has  arisen  out  of  the  pressure  of  famine, 
and  that  such  famine  has  usually  been  the  result  of  devas- 
tating wars. 

Madoor's  comitry,  so  far  as  I  could  make  it  out  from  the 
descriptions  given  me  of  its  natural  boundaries  of  streams 
and  mountains,  and  the  distances,  by  time,  to  reach  them 
respectively,  Avould  seem  to  be  about  fifty  miles  in  length, 
north-east  by  south-west,  and  twenty-five  miles  in  breadth. 
The  village  lies  midway  in  this  distance,  seventeen  miles 
from  the  Hinduwee  stream,  and  eight  from  the  mountain 
range  that  separates  Madoor's  country  from  that  of 
Umtikaka. 

The  whole  of  this  part  of  the  country  is  extremely 
mountainous,  consisting  of  sand- stone  in  horizontal  strata, 
the  upper  portions  of  which  have  been  so  worn  and  washed 
away,  as  to  give  the  hills  the  appeai'ance  of  terraces,  or  hills 
covered  with  terraced  walks  rising  one  above  another,  and 
which,  if  susceptible  of  cultivation,  might  be  converted 
into  hanging  gardens  of  great  magnificence.  In  the 
absence  of  springs  and  fountains,  such  a  destiny  is  not,  I 
fear,  in  reserve  for  Africa,  dm-ing  (at  any  rate)  the  present 
dispensation  of  our  globe. 

The  boundaiy  lines  which  I  have  just  alluded  to,  are,  I 
understand,  considerably  xcitliin  those  originally  marked 
out  by  Mr.  Cole,  when  acting  on  behalf  of  the  British 
Government,  in  -the  year  1848.  Those  lines  have  been 
subsequently  altered  by  His  Excellency  Sir  Hariy  Smith, 
the  present  Governor,  though  without  any  communication, 
it  is  affirmed,  with  Madoor  or  his  people.  All  this  comitry 
is  now,  in  fact,  proclaimed  as  within  the  colony,  and  a 
demand  of  £1  a  year  has  been  made  on  the  head  of  each 


TREATMENT  OF  MADOOR.  117 

family,  as  a  quit-rent;  a  demand  which  they  cannot  meet, 
as  they  have  710  money,  and  but  a  s?naU  quantity  of  cattle. 
The  cattle,  if  distrained  and  driven  to  a  distance,  where  a 
market  might  be  found  for  them,  would  then  probably  be 
valued  at  not  more  than  i'l  each,  and  thus  the  people 
would  not  only  be  impoverished  and  disheartened,  but 
ruined  and  exasperated,  and  forced  to  abandon  tlie  country, 
and  seek  some  home  farther  to  tlie  north.  Thus  a  very 
serious  calamity  would  again  occur  to  the  colony,  by 
leaving  it  exposed  to  other  attacks  in  this  quarter,  from 
Kaffirs  and  Tambookies.  His  Excellency's  policy  in 
reference  to  Madoor  appears,  I  must  confess,  to  me, 
neither  just,  generous,  nor  politic.  It  is  not  generous,  for 
Madoor  had  served  the  colony  ivell,  and  rendered  it  very 
valuable  aid  during  the  last  war,  by  assisting  to  preserve 
that  portion  of  the  colonial  border  from  invasion,  and 
checking  the  Kaffirs  and  Tambookies.  His  people  gave 
their  services  to  the  Government  for  three  years,  having 
only  rations  and  no  pay,  impoverishing  themselves  and 
their  families  in  the  meantime.  To  deprive  him  of  his 
country  now,  is  a  poor  recompense  for  such  important 
sendees ;  and  to  proclaim  his  country  British  territory, 
part  and  parcel  of  the  colony,  without  consultation,  or 
obtaining  his  consent,  is  equivalent  to  depriving  him  of  it. 
I  apprehend  this  is  only  a  first  step  towards  his  expulsion, 
and  that  of  his  people,  either  by  fraud  or.  force.  Of  course, 
I  do  not  mean  direct  fraud ;  but  I  mean,  tbat,  as  in  other 
cases,  some  scheme  will  be  employed  by  interested  parties, 
who  will  get  permission  to  occupy  some  portions  of  the 
land,  then  ultimately  claim  them,  excite  some  quarrels, 
and  at  last  get  their  claims  sanctioned,  and  the  natives 
dispossessed,  crushed,  and  ruined. 

I  do  not  understand  wliat  may  liave  been  the  (Jovcrnor's 
reasons  for  these  measures ;  but  so  far  as  I  can  learn,  tbey 
were  pressed  on  him  by  some  of  the  Dutch  emigrants,  at 
the  time  when  the  Boers  in  the  north  were  occasioning  so 
much   uneasiness    in  the  colony.      Sir  Huri-y  Siuitli,   to 


118  QUIT- RENT 

conciliate  the  Boers  in  the  south,  promised,  it  is  stated,  to 
add  this  country  of  ISIadoor  to  the. colony,  and,  it  is  re- 
ported, the  Tambookie  country  also.  The  expectation  of 
the  Boers  in  the  south  would  of  course  be,  that  ultimately 
they  might  get  possession  of  these  territories.  All  this 
only  shows  still  more  forcibly  that  the  measure  itself  was 
an  unjust  one.  And  for  the  reasons  which  I  have  already 
stated,  in  reference  to  the  defence  of  the  colony  from 
Tambookies  and  Kaffirs,  the  measure  must  be  pronounced 
impolitic.  To  a  stranger  this  may  not  be  obvious.  It 
might  seem  that,  to  have  the  country  occupied  by  Boers, 
would  be  as  good  a  defence  to  the  colony,  as  to  allow  it 
to  remain  in  the  possession  of  these  very  partially  civilized 
communities  of  natives.  But  far  from  it.  The  Boers 
require  an  immense  tract  of  country  for  each  family. 
Twenty  or  thirty  families  would  divide  among  them  the 
whole  of  Madoor's  country.  AtMiereas,  at  least  two  hundred 
families  of  natives  would  be  satisfied  with  it,  and  be  amply 
sustained  by  it.  In  the  former  case,  also,  the  larger  pro- 
perties of  the  famiers  would  be  a  temptation  to  the  Kaffir 
invader,  and  the  amount  of  resistance  so  much  the  smaller, 
on  account  of  the  very  limited  number  of  the  inhabitants, 
and  the  distances  at  which  they  live  from  one  another. 

The  annual  tax,  or  quit-rent  of  £'1,  demanded  of  Madoor 
and  his  people  for  each  family,  is  not  imposed  on  the 
tribes  of  Kaffirs,  the  Gaikas,  who  have  lately  been  at  war 
with  the  colony,  although  their  country  is  also  brought 
under  British  jurisdiction.  Their  country-  is  claimed  and 
designated  "  British  Kaffraria."  They  have,  ^j^r/ifl/js  uith 
some  show  of  justice,  been  deprived  of  supreme  authority 
there,  as  the  result  of  the  late  war ;  though  questions 
might  arise,  even  then,  as  to  the  aggressive  party,  and  the 
real  causes  of  that  war.  At  any  rate,  though  the  Kaffirs 
may  have  done  something  to  forfeit  their  countiy  by  the 
war,  Madoor  had  not.  Yet  the  latter  is  put  under  a  tax, 
while  the  former  is  exempted.  No  wonder  the  Kaffirs 
readily  boast  of  the  advantages  which  they  gain,  and  taunt 


LETTERS  FROM  MADOOR.  119 

the  Other  party  with  the  position  in  which  they  are  placed. 
'"You  sat  still;  you  took  no  part  in  the  war  against  the 
colony,"  say  the  Kaffirs;  "  or  you  fought  on  the  side  of  the 
colony ;  and  see,  you  both  lose  your  country  and  have  a 
tax  imposed  on  you.  We  fought — and  here  are  the  hand- 
some presents  which  the  English  have  made  us  !  If  you 
wish  the  English  to  be  your  friends,  you  must  fight  them." 
I  have  received  two  letters  on  these  subjects,  one  from 
Madoor  himself,  and  one  from  his  principal  people.  I 
told  Madoor  that  I  could  not  make  him  great  promises  of 
aid,  that  I  did  not  wish  to  raise  any  sanguine  expecta- 
tions of  what  I  could  do  for  him,  but  that  I  would  do  what 
I  could,  both  on  my  return  to  the  seat  of  Government  in 
Cape  Town,  and,  if  necessary,  on  my  return  to  England. 
The  poor  old  man  seemed  gi-atified  and  encouraged,  and 
said  "his  heart  was  made  larger  and  easier."  He  thanked 
me  for  my  visit,  my  sympathy,  and  kind  expressions. 
"  But,"  said  he,  "when  officers  come  from  the  Government 
to  bring  matters  of  dispute  before  me,  it  always  makes  my 
heart  feel  sad,  and  leaves  a  cloud  over  me." 

Translation  of  a  Letter  from  Madoor  and  his  People,  addressed  to 
Rev.  J.  J.  Fkeeman,  and  dated 

"  Freemayiton,  29th  Atig.  1849. 

"  Much  respected  Sir  and  F.vther, 

"  It  is  ■with  the  greatest  pleasure  that  we  bid  you  welcome  to  Free- 
manton,  on  your  arrival  from  England,  and  we  hope  that  your 
coming  to  the  Churches  of  South  Africa  will  be  a  blessing. 

"  Before  the  war  we  had  began  to  be  very  prosperous,  but  now 
through  the  war  we  are  altogether  ruined.  All  the  inhabitants  here 
were  obliged  to  leave  evei-ything  they  had,  and  to  help  the  colonial 
Government  against  the  Kaffirs.  We  were  nearly  tliree  years  in  the 
service  of  Government,  and  although  many  promises  were  made  to  us, 
none  of  them  have  been  fulfilled.  This  land  belongs  to  the  liushmen, 
and  the  British  Government  has  recognized  it  as  such.  But  now, 
we  know  not  how  it  is,  but  Bushmen  and  Hottentots  living  here  under 
Madoor  are  required  to  pay  £1  each,  yearly,  to  the  Government. 
This  law,  if  carried  into  exx'cution,  among  the  Bushmen,  Hotten- 
tots, Fingoes,  and  Kaffirs  here,  will  entirely  ruin   them,  and,  more- 


120  LETTERS  FROM  MADOOR. 

over,  will  drive  them  away.  Hoping  that  you,  sir,  besides  attending 
to  ovu'  spiritual  alfuirs,  will  feel  for  us  in  relation  to  our  secular 
affairs,  we  remain  with  the  greatest  respect,  your  obedient  servants," 

(Signed  by  Madoor,  as  Captain, 
two  Field  Cornets, 
Mr.  UUbricht,  and  several  others.) 

Translation  of  a  Letter  from  Madoor  to  Rev.  J.  J.  Freeman,  dated 

"  Freeinanton,  Sept.  1,  1849. 
"Much  respected  Sir, 

"I  wish  to  state  my  circumstances  respecting  this  country,  which  was 
occupied  by  my  forefathers.  Of  late  years  the  Tambookies  have  got 
possession  of  a  large  portion  of  this  land,  but  not  the  part  of  it  Avhich 
I  am  occup"ying. 

"  In  the  year  1837,  the  teachers  and  friends  at  Kat  River  brought 
us,  by  means  of  God's  Word,  out  of  the  ravines  and  rocks,  and  they 
collected  us  in  this  place.  This  Word  of  God  is  received  by  many  of 
my  people.  The  people  of  Kat  River  have  supplied  us  with  ploughs 
and  oxen,  vegetables  and  clothmg,  sent  to  us  in  wagons  ;  and  some  of 
these  things  even  came  from  England.  For  all  that  which  I  possess 
I  am  indebted  to  the  gospel  and  the  Government.  \Vlro  had  ever 
thought  that  Bushmen  would  learn  and  become  civilized  ?  but '  God 
takes  the  poor  from  the  dust,  and  sets  the  solitai-y  in  families.'  The 
Lord  hath  done  much  for  us. 

"In  18-16,  the  Government  sought,  through  the  medium  of  our 
instructors,  that  we  should  assist  the  English  against  the  Kaffirs,  and 
be  luiited.  We  did  so  ;  we  left  our  all,  even  without  wages  or  cloth- 
ino-  for  our  wives  and  childi-en.  We  have  for  nearly  three  years 
served  the  Government,  and  the  Government  promised  to  do  all  that 
was  right  to  me,  and  to  secure  my  lands.  But  now,  the  Government 
has  taken  my  land  in  [meanmg,  within  the  colonial  bovuidary],  with- 
out saving  anything  to  me,  "and  has  besides  imposed  a  tax  of  £1  on 
every  head  of  a  family,  which  sum  is  so  great,  that  it  will  drive  back 
again  my  poor  people  ;  because,  as  I  have  above  300  people  under 
me,  they  would  have  to  pay  £300  yearly.  The  Government  cannot 
raise  this  tax  among  the  Kaffirs,  because  it  would  stu-  up  war ;  but 
we,  and  the  Tambookies,  and  Fingoes,  and  Hottentots,  who  were  on 
the  side  of  the  Government,  and  because  we  are  mild,  are  made 
to  endure  the  tax.  I  hope  that  you,  su-,  wiU  lay  to  heart  our  cir- 
cumstances, for  the  Society  is  oiir  father  and  special  friend. 

"  Your  servant, 

"  Madoor." 


ANECDOTE  OF  A  LION.  121 

Both  these  letters,  it  will  be  seen,  contain  toucliing  ap- 
peals to  the  equity  and  hnmanitij  of  Government.  Promises 
made,  and  not  fulfilled! — services  rendered,  and  not  re- 
mmierated  ! — and  £300  a  year  quit-rent  demanded,  though 
not  more  than  £50  could  have  been  obtained  had  Dutch 
farmers  settled  on  an  equal  extent  of  land  !  These  things 
demand  inquiry. 

It  is  said  that  some  portions  of  this  part  of  South  Africa 
are  still  infested  by  lions.  I  had  not  the  honour  of  re- 
ceiving the  attention  of  any  of  them  during  my  progress 
through  it.  I  went  with  peaceable  intentions,  and  they 
allowed  me  to  pass  quietly.  Mr.  Gordon  Gumming  ap- 
pears to  have  gone  to  South  Africa  with  the  very  pui'pose 
of  waging  war  on  their  whole  race,  and  that  of  their  fierce 
companions  of  the  wild  and  the  forest,  and  of  course  he 
had  his  share  of  encounters  and  hair-breadth  escapes. 

For  myself,  I  can  only  relate  what  I  heard.  From 
various  incidents  mentioned,  I  select  the  following: — Some 
short  time  since  three  men  and  a  boy  were  sleeping  in  the 
open  air,  while  travelling  through  Madoor's  country.  Two 
of  the  men  were  by  themselves  ;  the  other  man  and  a  boy 
also  by  themselves,  wrapped  uj)  in  a  blanket.  While  they 
were  asleep,  a  lion  came  and  walked  off"  with  the  two  in 
the  blanket ;  they  effected  their  escape,  and  left  the  mon- 
ster in  the  possession  of  tbeir  warm  coverlet,  and  stole 
back  to  their  companions  to  give  the  alarm.  While  the 
man  was  relating  the  adventure,  the  lion  came  and 
pounced  on  him,  seized  him  by  the  neck,  and  killed  him. 
He  had  just  time  to  ciy,  "Shoot!  shoot!"  his  companions 
did  so — shot  the  lion  in  the  neck,  and  destroyed  him. 
Other  lions  were  supposed  to  be  in  the  neighbourhood, 
and  the  surviving  two  men  and  boy  escaped  as  fast  as  they 
could.  They  returned  next  morning  to  get  the  body  of 
their  companion  and  inter  it,  but  found  that  it  had  been 
devoured  during  the  night,  and  the  very  lion  which  they 
had  shot  had  been  also  devoured  by  some  of  his  com- 
panions. 


122  SIITI.OII,  MORAVIAN  STATION — SELF-SUPPORTING. 

Mr.  Read,  jun.,  from  Philipton,  had  been  with  me 
during  all  my  visit  at  Freemanton,  and  now  accompanied 
me  on  my  way  to  the  Kat  River  Settlement.  We  called, 
during  our  journey  thither,  at  the  Moravian  station  of 
Shiloh,  on  the  Klip  Plaats  River,  and  spent  some  little 
time  in  looking  over,  with  much  gi'atification,  that  valuable 
Institution.  The  locality  is  admirably  adapted  for  its 
purposes.  A  portion  of  the  river  is  led  out  through  ex- 
tensive and  well-formed  water-courses.  These  irrigate  a 
large  tract  of  countiy.  By  means  of  the  produce  raised, 
and  the  profits  derived  from  an  excellent  corn-mill,  not 
only  have  all  the  expenses  of  the  Institution  been  met, 
but  a  considerable  surplus  has  been  created,  and  out  of 
this  surplus  a  neiv  Mission  station  is  being  formed,  near  the 
Windvogel  Berg.  This  illustrates  my  idea  of  a  self- 
supporting  Institution,  and  to  this  scheme  I  think  we  must 
endeavour  to  bring  ours. 

The  quantity  of  land  which  is  here  brought  under  the 
plough  is  veiy  great,  say  from  two  hundred  to  three  hun- 
dred acres  ;  a  larger  amount,  I  was  informed,  than  in  any 
other  locality  in  the  colony  within  the  same  space.  Its 
capabilities  are  still  great.  A  large  proportion  of  the:>e 
acres  is  cultivated  for  the  direct  use  and  benefit  of  the 
Institution  of  Shiloh.  The  people  cultivate  the  rest  for 
themselves.  The  gardens  are  large,  and  raise  a  great 
quantity  of  vegetables  for  use  and  sale  ;  and  the  orchards 
are  large,  and  well  stocked  with  choice  fruit-trees. 

There  are  eight  hundred  people  altogether  on  the  Insti- 
tution, under  the  charge  of  the  Missionaries.  They  have, 
as  usual,  at  their  stations,  a  good  carpenter's  shop  and 
smithery.  The  corn-mill,  and  expense  of  leading  out  the 
stream  for  its  supply,  cost  about  six  thousand  rix  dollars, 
say  ^£450. 

The  station  was  commenced  about  twenty  years  ago,  at 
the  suggestion  of  General  Bourke,  at  that  time  Governor 
of  the  colony.  The  countiy  had  been  at  that  period  in- 
fested  with    robbers    from   neighbouring   territories,   who 


ATTACKED  IN  1847 MAJOR  HOGG.  123 

made  incui'sions  on  the  colonists,  and  it  was  proposed  to 
establish  a  military  post.  But  the  suggestion  of  trying  a 
Missionary  station  instead  was  adopted.  The  Moravians 
were  applied  to.  The  Eev.  Mr.  Halbeck,  of  Genadendal, 
visited  the  spot,  and  approved  of  it.  Government  gave 
£•200  towards  the  expenses  of  commencing  it,  and  now  it 
presents  an  inviting  and  most  encouraging  aspect.  Its 
chief  drawback  appears  to  be  a  want  of  wood.  There  is 
no  forest  at  hand.  Hence  the  difficulty  the  people  expe 
rience  in  building  houses.  Timber  is  expensive.  The 
gi-eat  majority  live  in  huts.  Several  houses,  however,  are 
built,  and  have  the  appearance  of  comfort  and  prosperity. 
The  chapel,  school,  and  Mission-houses,  have  an  air  of 
comfort  and  respectability.  There  are  about  eighty  com- 
municants. Services  are  held  in  the  Dutch  and  Kaffir 
languages.  The  people  consist  of  Kaffirs,  Tambookies,  Fin- 
goes,  Hottentots,  and  apprentices.  The  station  was 
attacked  during  the  war  of  1847,  by  Mapassa  and  his 
people.  They  were  repulsed.  Captain,  now  Major  Hogg, 
was  stationed  there  with  troops.*  Madoor  and  his  people 
were  there  also,  as  our  allies,  under  the  command  of 
Mr.  Jos.  Read.  No  fighting  took  place  at  the  village 
itself,  although  there  were  some  engagements  in  the 
neighbouring  country.  An  Englishman  and  some  natives 
were  killed  and  barbarously  mutilated.  The  former  was 
found  to  have  received  at  least  a  hundred  wounds  on  his 
body. 

I  have  stated  above,  that  an  attack  was  made  by  the 
enemy  on  the  station  of  Shiloh,  in  1847,  and  that  Mr. 
Joseph  Read,  with  the  i)eople  of  Madoor,  were  greatly  ser- 
viceable in  defending  it.  As  Mr.  Read  had  been  up  to 
that  period  in  connexion  with  our  Society  as  a  teacher, 
though  not  an  ordained  Missionary,  I  think  it  only  due  to 
him  to  insert  here  his  letter  in  explanation  of  the  case, 

*  This  is  one  of  the  two  gentlemen  appointed  as  Assistant  Com- 
missioners to  aid  Sir  Harry  Smith,  at  the  (Jape,  in  relation  to  Kaffir 
affairs.     See  sijeech  of  Lord  Gray  :  House  of  Lords,  20th  May,  1851. 


124  MR.  JOS.  READ — LEITERS. 

Avitli  which  he  favoured  me  during  my  late  visit.  The  ac- 
<'ompanying  letters  from  Sir  Andrew  Stockenstrom,  and  the 
Rev.  W.  Bonatz,  of  the  Institution  at  Shiloh,  will  show 
also  the  value  they  attached  to  Mr.  Read's  sei-\'ices,  and 
those  of  Madoor  and  his  people  : — 

"  To  Rev.  J.  J.  Freeman. 

"  Philipton,  Sept.  1849. 
"  Rev.  axd  dear  Sir, 

"  As  the  deputation  of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  I  beg  to  lay 
before  you  a  brief  statement  of  my  ease,  respecting  my  accepting  the 
captaincy  of  the  United  Bushmen  and  Hottentot  force,  and  my 
resigning  my  connexion  ■with  the  London  Missionary  Society. 

"Li  the  month  of  April,  18th  ult.,  Ireceived  a  letter  fromMajor  Smith, 
the  frontier  Commissioner,  desiring  me  to  use  my  influence  with  the 
Bushman  Chief,  Madoor,  and  his  people,  and  ascertain  fi-om  them  whe- 
ther they  would  be  -willmg  to  assist  Govermnent  against  the  enemy. 
On  the  receipt  of  this  letter,  I  at  once  left  for  the  Bushman  country, 
used  my  influence  ^^•ith  these  people,  arranged  with  them,  and  moved 
them  into  the  colony  with  the  least  possible  delay.  Ha\ing  brought 
these  people  into  the  colony,  I  was  desired  to  take  the  command  of 
them.  I  at  once  felt  myself  in  a  very  difficult  position  ;  these  people 
wotdd  serve  under  no  other  than  myself,  and  they  all  resolved,  to  a 
man,  that  rather  than  serve  under  any  one  else,  they  would  at  once 
move  to  the  place  from  whence  they  came.  They  said  I  had  been  the 
means  of  bringing  them  into  contact  with  the  Government. 

"  Having  none  of  my  friends  near  me  to  advise  with,  and  as  there 
was  a  complete  panic  after  the  defeat  of  the  troops  at  Biirnshill,  and 
seeing  the  determination  of  the  men  not  to  serve  under  any  one  else, 
and  not  wishing  to  lay  obstacles  in  the  way  of  Government,  which 
might  have  proved  injuiious  at  such  a  crisis,  I  accepted  the  command 
of  this  force.  !My  father  and  brother  felt  very  much  concerned  at 
the  step  I  had  taken,  and  wTote  to  Sir  A.  Stockenstrom,  Bart.,  who 
was  then  Commandant-General,  to  get  me  off,  or  give  me  a  civil 
appointment  in  the  Burgher  force.  He  thought  at  that  juncture  of 
affairs  it  would  be  impolitic  as  well  as  unwise  to  get  me  off. 

"  It  shovdd  also  be  borne  in  mind,  that,  not  being  an  ordained  Mis- 
sionary, I  was  liable  to  be  called  out  to  serve  the  colony ;  and  that, 
had  I  not  accepted  the  captaincy,  in  which  I  could  be  of  ser^ice  to 
the  Bushmen,  I  should  have  had  to  serve  as  a  private ;  this  I  was 
also  told.  Seeing  at  once  the  incompatibility  of  the  two  offices,  and 
not  wishing  my  ease  to  be  a  precedent,  I  resigned  my  connexion  with 


LETTERS.  125 

the  Society  in  a  letter  to  Dr.  Philip,  and  desired  him  to  forward  a 
copy  of  it  to  the  Directors. 

"  Though  no  longer  an  accredited  agent  of  the  Society,  I  shall 
always  cherish  the  greatest  respect  towards  the  Du-ectors  and  con- 
stituents of  the  Society,  and  continue  to  take  a  lively  mterest  in  its 
welfare,  contribute  towards  its  support,  and  aid  in  any  way  I  can 
towards  its  progress.  I  beg  to  inclose  Major  Smith's  letter,  and  a 
letter  from  Sir  A.  Stockenstrom. 

"  I  remain,  Rev.  and  dear  Sir,  your's  very  obediently, 

"  Joseph  Read." 

Major  Smith's  Letter. 
[True  Copy.] 

''Port  Beaufort,  April  20,  1846. 

"  Sir,- — I  am  directed  by  his  Honoiir,  the  Lievitenant-Governor,  to 
conmiunicate  with  you  respecting  the  Bushman  Chief  ^Madoor,  whom 
he  is  desirous  of  employing  for  the  defence  of  the  Kat  River  Settle- 
ment, in  the  event  of  the  services  of  himself  and  people  being  attain- 
able. His  Honour,  therefore,  requests  you  will,  either  by  yoixrself  or 
through  another,  ascertam  whether  Madoor  is  wiUing  to  be  so  em- 
ployed ;  and  if  he  is,  arrange  with  hun  to  move  as  early  as  possible 
in  the  direction  of  the  Kat  River,  where  he  will  receive  more  definite 
instructions  from  Captain  Sutton  of  the  Cape  Mounted  Rifles. 

"  I  need  scarcely  add,  that,  should  the  Chief  prove  himself  a  faith- 
ful adherent  to  the  Government,  his  services  will  be  sure  to  meet 
with  favourable  consideration  hereafter. 

"  I  have  the  honour  to  be.  Sir,  your  most  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)         "  J.  S.  Smith,  Frontier  Commissioner." 

Sir  a.  Stockenstrom's  Letter. 

[True  Copy.] 

'' December  21,  1846. 
"  My  dear  Sir, — I  have  to  thank  you  for  your  favoirr  of  the  3rd 
instant,  which  you  will  mainly  find  answered  by  my  reply  to  the 
I)ublic  address,  and  to  which  I  can  add,  without  flattery,  that  your 
conduct  and  services,  whUe  you  were  under  my  command,  would  do 
honour  to  any  young  man  or  officer.  You  have  only  to  adhere 
1  riefly  to  the  maxim,  that  nothing  but  truth,  justice,  and  honesty  is 
jycrmanent,  and  with  your  talents  and  spirit,  you  will  find  yourself 
at  home  in  any  profession.     Your  juniors,  H.  Plaatjes,  P.  UUbricht, 


120  SNOW  STORM. 

D.  Ilolta,  A.  Holta,  and  Matinus  Jans,  deserve  my  particular  com- 
mendation, Avith  many  others,  and  I  hope  their  serA-ices  may  reach 
the  Governor's  notice,  through  some  iiifiuential  channel.  I  wish  you 
every  happiness.     I  remain,  dear  Sir,  your's  very  truly, 

(Signed)         "A.  Stockenstrom." 


E.EV.  Mr.  Bonatz's  Letter, 

[True  Copy.] 

"  Shiloh,  8th  June,  1849. 
"  My  dear  Sir — I  beg  to  acknowledge  your  letter  of  the  7th  inst. 
I  would  likewise  beg  to  say,  that  it  is  highly  pleasing  to  me  to  see, 
by  your  letter,  that  the  conduct  of  the  Shiloh  people,  as  well  as  Hot- 
tentots, as  also  Fingocs  and  Tambookies,  who  have  served  under 
you,  has  proved  so  satisfactory  to  you.  We  feel  it  our  duty  to  ex- 
press to  you  personally,  as  also  to  propose  our  united  thanks  for  all 
serA-ices  they  have  so  faithfuUy  performed  for  the  protection  of  this 
I^lace.  I  have  also  to  express  to  you  the  thanks  of  the  Bishops  of 
the  United  Brethren  at  home,  and  the  Directors  of  our  Society,  and 
to  assure  you  that  you  -wall  live  in  the  remembrance  of  the  Moravians 
as  weU  at  home  as  also  here,  for  all  you  have  done  so  readily  for 
Shiloh,  to  save  it  from  destruction.  ^lay  He  who  is  the  only  giver 
of  all  perfect  happmess,  bless  you  most  abundantly  in  tliis  life,  and 
also  in  that  which  is  to  come.     Youi-'s  faithfully, 

"A.  BONATZ." 

We  left  Shiloh  with  some  hesitation  as  to  the  weather:  the 
clouds  were  gathering,  and  the  wind  was  high,  but  on  the 
whole  it  was  thought  we  might  venture,  especially  as  fresh 
spans  of  oxen  were,  we  expected,  sent  forward  to  meet  us. 
By  the  time,  however,  we  reached  the  spot  we  called  the 
Deep  Kiver,  in  a  part  of  the  Winterherg,  we  found  that  we 
could  proceed  no  further.  A  severe  snow  storm  came  on — 
it  was  intensely  cold,  and  I  had  endeavoured  to  keep  myself 
warm  by  walking  part  of  the  way,  but  I  found  it  was  imprac- 
ticable. The  cold  seized  my  chest,  and  produced  such  pain, 
coughing,  and  difficulty  of  breathing,  that  I  was  glad  to  re- 
sume my  seat  in  the  wagon,  and  WTap  myself  up,  and  try  to 


NIGHTS  ACCOMMODATION ROADS  DIFFICULT.  127 

breathe  warmth  into  my  benumbed  fingers.  Mr.  Read 
wisely  resolved  on  remaining  where  we  were ;  for,  though 
on  a  considerable  common,  and  therefore  exposed,  we 
found  some  shelter  under  huge  masses  of  rock  or  boulders, 
such  as,  in  fine  weather,  would  form  beautiful  objects  for 
sketches  from  nature,  and  such  as  made  me  wish  I  pos- 
sessed the  skill  of  an  artist.  Our  people  soon  managed  to 
make  a  fire,  and  we  presently  found  the  comfort  of  "  the 
beverage  that  cheers  and  not  inebriates."  Here  we  re- 
mained for  the  night,  taking  the  accommodations  as  we 
found  them — nature's  canopy,  snow-clad  mountains,  a  pelt- 
ing storm,  and  howling  winds.  Two  of  our  men  found  a 
night's  lodging,  free  of  charges,  in  an  adjoining  cave,  where 
they  were  serenaded  by  the  lion's  roar,  but  returned  to  us 
in  the  morning  quite  unharmed,  and,  I  think,  unscared. 
They  said  they  had  slept  well,  and  had  been  quite  warm. 
The  rest  of  our  party  stowed  themselves  away  in  our  wagons, 
and  we  were  thankful  to  find  ourselves  undevoured  by  lions, 
and  all  safe  and  well  the  next  morning. 

We  could  not,  however,  leave  our  charming  hotel  very 
early.  Our  resting-place  had  been  on  high  ground,  and  it 
was  feared  the  roads  would  be  too  slipjiery  on  our  descent 
to  allow  the  cattle  to  travel  with  safety.  We  set  out  about 
half-past  ten,  and  found  some  parts  of  the  road  so  extremely 
difficult,  from  the  melting  of  the  snow,  that  Mr.  Read,  my 
experienced  guide,  was  on  the  point  of  sounding  a  retreat, 
and  directing  the  wagons  back  to  the  spot  which  we  had 
left.  However,  we  went  foi-ward  with  great  caution,  and 
at  length  safely  reached  the  summit  of  the  hill  in  tlie 
Winterberg,  or  Kat  River  Mountain,  from  whence  we  ob- 
tained a  most  commanding,  exhilarating,  and  magnificent 
view  of  the  whole  Kat  River  Settlement.  We  looked  down 
on  the  village  of  Philipton,  and  from  thence  across  the 
country  to  an  amazing  distance,  inclnding  Bothas  Hill, 
which  immediately  overlooks  Graham's  Town,  aljout  sixty 
miles  distant.  From  this  point  our  party  fired  four  nniskets, 


128  SPLENDID  VJKW.  —  RESULTS  OF  WAR. 

not  as  signals  of  distress,  but  to  announce  our  approach. 
We  afterwards  ascertained  that  it  was  just  so  much  powder 
thrown  away,  as  our  shots  were  not  heard..  In  fact,  our 
friends  had  given  up  all  exjiectation  of  oui*  being  so  near. 
They  had  set  out  on  the  previous  day  in  a  large  party  to 
meet  us,  accompanied  by  an  immense  body  of  the  Sunday- 
school  children,  but  were  overtaken  by  the  snow-storm, 
and  returned  home  most  piteously  drenched,  and  concluded 
that  the  same  storm  would  probably  have  detained  us  a 
day  longer  at  Shiloh. 

The  sceneiy  from  the  commanding  elevation  just  men- 
tioned, all  the  way  down  to  the  settlement,  is  exceedingly 
imposing.  I  was  much  struck  with  its  grandeur  and  beauty 
in  several  points  of  the  descent.  At  one  point  I  had  on 
my  leftlofty  mountain-ranges,  whose  summits  were  crowned 
with  the  snow  lately  fallen^on  the  right,  the  opening  and 
well-wooded  and  well-watered  settlements  of  the  Kat  River, 
ravines  rich  in  vegtation,  and  fertile  valleys  in  all  direc- 
tions, and  then  beyond  these,  extensive  ranges  of  hills  and 
open  country  stretching  away  to  the  horizon.  It  formed  a 
scene  of  landscape  grandeur  fit  for  a  first-rate  artist.  From 
an  eminence  where  we  stood  for  a  few  moments  in  the 
course  of  our  descent,  we  overlooked  the  settlement  of 
"Willsdale,"  (so  named  in  honour  of  the  late  Miss  Wills, 
of  London,  long  the  steady  friend  of  Dr.  Philip  and  his 
family,)  "Wilsonton,"  (from  Thomas  Wilson,  Esq.,  of  Lon- 
don,) and  "Bruceton,"  (from  J.  Bruce,  Esq.,  of  India.)  Mr. 
Bead  pointed  out  also  "  Lushington  Vale,"  and  "  Eeads- 
dale."  All  this  settlement  contains  about  from  five  to  seven 
thousand  people.  The  whole  suffered  extensively  during 
the  late  war  with  the  Kaffirs :  the  native  houses  were  burned, 
the  cattle  stolen,  and  a  large  amount  of  property  destroyed. 
These  are  among  the  numerous  evils  that  belong  to  wai', 
"  horrida  bella."  The  payment  of  troops  is  a  mere  item  in 
the  account  of  the  losses  and  miseries  of  war.  It  is  the 
individual  suffering,  loss,  ruin,  disappointment,  and  dis- 
couragement that  follow,  with  innumerable  attendant  moral 


ARRIVAL  AT  PHILIPTON.  129 

evils, — laxity  of  sentiment,  general  irreligion,  exasperated 
feeling,  indulgence  and  licentiousness,  —  these  corrupt 
many ;  and  many  in  this  settlement  who  had  "  walked 
well,"  turned  aside,  "making  shipwreck  of  faith  and  a  good 
conscience." 

Somewhat  fatigued  by  the  journey,  I  felt  thankful  to 
reach  Philipton  in  the  course  of  the  evening,  and  there 
found,  just  as  I  had  anticipated,  a  cordial  welcome  from  our 
devoted  and  unfailingly  active  ]\Iissionary,  ]Mr.  Eead,  and 
from  ah  the  members  of  his  family.  The  house  was,  how 
ever,  at  the  time  a  house  of  mourning.  Death  had  entered 
it  a  few  days  prior  to  my  arrival.  Mr.  Eead  was  now  a 
widower,  and  his  children  without  a  mother.  The  Eev. 
Mr.  Thompson,  of  Balfour,  had  delivered  an  appropriate 
funeral  address  at  the  interment  of  Mrs.  Eead.  I  thought 
it  had  reflected  much  honouV  on  the  simplicity  of  her 
Christian  character  that,  in  her  last  houi-s,  she  had  not 
only  assented  to  her  son  James  leaving  her  that  he  might 
proceed  to  meet  me,  and  aid  me  on  myjourney,  but  calmly 
took  leave  of  her  affectionate  son,  whom  she  might  naturally 
have  wished  to  detain,  to  close  her  eyelids  in  death,  but 
begged  him  to  go,  and  not  to  suffer  her  to  be  an  impedi- 
ment in  the  way  of  his  rendering  any  service  in  the  cause 
of  Missions.  I  Avas  struck  Avith  this  little  incident.  I 
had  never  known  Mrs.  Eead,  but  I  was  assm-ed  that  this 
afforded  but  a  simple  and  truthful  illustration  of  her 
tliou'^litfnl,  modest,  unobtrusive  spirit  and  deportment 
through  life. 

And  now  having  brought  my  tour  to  this  point,  and  con- 
ducted my  readers  to  the  Hottentot  settlement  of  the  Kat 
Eiver,  it  may  be  well  to  pause  and  take  a  brief  review  of  the 
history  of  this  people  and  of  the  settlement  itself,  especially 
as  we  have  reached  a  ci-isis  in  their  condition,  and  shall 
have  occasion  shortly  to  indicate  a  calamitous  reverse  in 
their  circumstances.  I  propose  to  devote  the  two  succeed 
ing  chapters  to  these  subjects, —  the  history  of  the  peoj)le, 
and  the  state  of  the  Kat  Eiver  Settlement.     And  tlicu,  as  the 


130  ARRIVAT,  AT  rnir.IPTON. 

calamitous  reverse  to  which  I  have  alluded,  has  come  over 
them  in  connexion  with  the  Kaffir  war  which  is  still  raging 
there  (May,  1851),  I  shall  devote  some  space  to  that  most 
afflictive  case,  and  afterwards  proceed  with  the  narrative  of 
my  visit  to  other  parts  of  the  colony. 


CHAPTER     VI. 


RISE  AND  SPREAD  OF  CHRISTIANITY  AND  CIVILIZATION  AMONG  THE  HOT- 
TENTOTS  THE  MORAVIAN  MISSION  OF  1737 APPEALS  OF  TRAVEL- 
LERS ON  BEHALF  OF  THE  HOTTENTOTS THEIR  MILITARY  ENROL- 
MENT  MISSIONARY    INSTITUTIONS    AFTER     1795 COMMISSIONS     OF 

INQUIRY  CIRCUIT      COURTS ABSENCE      OF       LAW — 'COMPULSORY 

SERVICE PERSONAL    A'lOLENCE BRITISH     SETTLERS    IN    ALBANY, 

1820 COMMISSION    OF    INQUIRY,   1822 THE  50tH  ORDINANCE,  OR 

MAGNA    CHARTA    OF    THE    HOTTENTOTS,    1828 KAT    RIVER   SETTLE- 
MENT,    1829 PARLIAMENTARY    COMMITTEE,     1835-7  —  CONDUCT    OF 

THE    HOTTENTOTS    IN    THE    KAFFIR   WARS,    1835-46 — THEIR   SUBSE- 
QUENT TREATMENT,  AND  PRESENT  CONDITION. 

From  the  uniform,  and  not  exaggerated  testimony  of 
voyagers  to  the  disadvantage  of  the  Hottentots,  that  people, 
towards  the  close  of  the  last  century,  had  become  a  pro- 
verbial type  of  most  degraded  humanity.  Even  those  who 
declared  them  to  he  an  ill-used  people,  still  repoi'ted  in 
terms  of  unqualified  reproach,  of  the  i-epulsiveness  of  their 
persons  and  habits ;  of  the  almost  unintelligible  rudeness  of 
their  speech  ;  of  their  indolence,  and  general  barbarism, 
without,  however,  inii)uting  to  them  either  ferocious  dis- 
positions or  indomitable  hostility  to  strangers;  and  to  this 
day,  eminent  continental  and  American  writers  may  be 
cited,  who,  ill-informed  upon  the  recent  history  of  those 
Cape  al)origincs,  hold  them  still  to  be  very  little  raised 
above  Cape  baboons.  Nevertheless,  individuals  among 
them  were  long  ago  remarkable  for  excellent  moral  quali- 
ties,  and  even  for  superior  mental   attainments  ;  and   so 


13vJ  KISE  AND  SPREAD  OF  CHKISTFAXITY. 

early  as  in  1737,  the  Moravian  Missionaries  had  produced 
material  improvements  in  the  condition  and  character  of  a 
considerable  number  of  them.  The  Moravian  Institution 
of  that  day,  at  the  famous  Genadendal,  like  those  of  all 
missionai'y  societies,  provided  homes  for  the  homeless, 
schools  for  the  young,  vai'ious  mechanical  occupations  for 
the  ignorant,  the  knowledge,  the  consolations,  and  the 
hopes  of  religion  for  all.  When  the  wages  of  the  Hot- 
tentot servant  were  paid  in  cattle,  as  was  common,  the  land 
of  the  Missionary  Institutions  provided  pasturage  and 
safety  for  them.  Those  Institutions  also  enabled  the  serving 
man  to  obtain  fair  wages  for  his  work,  and  good  usage  from 
his  employer.  It  was  on  account  of  this  last  interference 
on  behalf  of  the  oppressed,  that  their  oppressors  hated  the 
Missionaries  from  the  first,  and  have  never  ceased  to  seek 
the  suppression  of  the  Institutions.  Their  importance  on 
this  head  is  beyond  price ;  and  none  who  know  the  Cape 
colony  can  deny  them  to  be  still  indispensable  on  this 
ground  alone.  If  no  other  proof  could  be  adduced  in 
favour  of  this  conclusion,  a  powerful  one  would  be  found 
in  the  bitter  hostility  of  many  ill -judging  colonists  to  them 
to  this  day  as  developed  by  the  present  Kaffir  war. 

The  good  impression  made  by  the  Moravians  was  deep 
enough  to  endure,  visibly,  many  years  after  the  mission 
was  suspended.  The  distinguished  traveller,  Sparrman, 
afterwards  one  of  the  companions  of  Captain  Cook,  found 
members  of  it  surviving  after  thirty  years,  who  still  pre- 
served a  gi'ateful  recollection  of  the  teachers'  kindnesses, 
and  exhibited  some  fruits  from  their  lessons.  After  an 
interval  of  fifty  years,  the  labours  of  the  Moravians  were 
revived  at  the  Cape  with  great  effect  and  universal  ap- 
plause. Other  circumstances  have  also  favoured,  and 
extended  the  change.  Other  Missionaries,  especially  those 
of  the  London  Society,  have  contributed  largely  to  the 
advancement  of  the  Hottentots ;  and  some  humane  in- 
fiuences  in  their  behalf,  distinct  from  those  of  the  Mis- 
sionaries, have  prevailed,  both  on  the  part  of  the   Govern- 


APPEALS  ON  BEHALF  OF  THE  HOTTENTOTS.        133 

ment  and  among  private  individuals,  with  uniform  success, 
whenever  persevered  in. 

The  satisfactory  description  of  the  condition  and  conduct 
of  the  Hottentots  in  various  states  of  hfe,  contained  in  the 
pages  of  this  journal,  is  therefore  given  with  strong  con- 
fidence of  its  rigorous  correctness.  Their  steady  progress 
as  Christians,  and  as  good  members  of  society,  notwith- 
standing any  serious  obstacles,  has  been  established  beyond 
reasonable  contradiction. 

The  melancholy  check,  however,  to  which  a  large  body 
of  them  are  at  this  moment  exposed,  demands  that  a  more 
detailed  account  than  would  otherwise  have  been  necessary 
be  offered,  of  the  means  which  have  led  to  their  unques- 
tionable improvement,  and  of  the  chief  circumstances  of 
their  history  under  British  rule,  together  with  a  brief  view 
of  the  difficulties  against  which  they  have  now  to  struggle. 
That  a  people  become  perfectly  civilized,  from  being  bar- 
barous within  the  memory  of  living  men,  should  be  thrown 
back  into  barbarism  by  the  very  same  Government  that 
had  in  various  ways  fostered  their  elevation,  is  a  fact  that 
must  obtain  a  severe  scrutiny. 

The  French  traveller,  Le  Vaillant,  following  up  Professor 
Sparrman  in  his  kindly  view  of  the  natural  dispositions  of 
the  Hottentots,  and  in  the  denouncement  of  the  enormous 
cruelties  they  suffered  from  the  colonists,  raised  a  strong 
feeling  throughout  Europe  in  favour  of  their  claims  to 
more  humane  treatment.  The  appeal  was  in  harmony  with 
lie  growing  good  feeling  of  the  age,  out  of  which  ultimately 
came  the  abolition  of  the  Slave  Trade  by  all  the  great  states, 
and  the  emancipation  of  our  own  colonial  slaves.  Several 
Dutch  writers  of  the  time  took  the  same  enlightened  view 
of  the  subject,  which  their  Government  adopted,  and  there- 
fore it  encouraged  the  Moravians  to  re-establish  their  mis- 
sions among  the  Hottentots  before  the  surrender  of  the 
Cape  to  us.  Our  successive  conrpiests  of  the  colony,  in 
1705  and  1806,  confirmed  the  good  prospect;  and  a  young 
English  official  traveller,  Barrow,  laid  tlie    foundation   of 


134  MILITARY  ENROLMKNT. 

his  future  eminence  by  a  work  upon  Soutli  Africa,  in  whicli 
he  did  the  Moravians  ample  justice  and  warmly  vindicated 
the  cause  of  the  Hottentots.  Already,  the  Dutch  had 
employed  them  advantagously  as  soldiers ;  and  we  con- 
tinued them  in  militaiy  service.  With  a  single  exception, 
in  1838,  when  a  party  of  sixteen  of  the  Cape  Hottentot 
corps  put  one  of  their  officers  to  death,  for  which  two  of 
them  were  shot  under  sentence  of  a  court-martial,  they 
maintained,  during  fifty  years,  an  unblemished  character 
for  strict  fidelity  and  the  prompt  discharge  of  duty.  This 
is  the  simple  truth,  as  could  be  substantiated  by  the  testi- 
mony of  a  long  succession  of  commanders ;  and  it  has 
occun-ed  without  the  stimulus  of  promotion.  Serjeant- 
Major  Hendrick  of  the  Hottentot  Cavalry,  whose  rightful 
position  was  that  of  chief  of  an  ancient  tribe,  was  fit,  by  his 
talents  and  character,  for  any  post.  He  was  well  aw^are  of 
his  superiority  to  the  young  white  men  from  whom  he 
received  orders  ;  and  he  was  painfully  conscious  too,  that 
the  rank  of  a  commissioned  officer  would,  according  to 
absurdly  settled  usages,  never  be  his.  So  much  was  needful 
to  be  said  respecting  Hottentot  soldiers,  seeing  that  a  most 
unhappy  feature  of  the  present  disasters  in  the  Cape  fron- 
tier is  the  desertion  of  many  of  them  to  the  Kaffirs,  with 
the  disarming  of  the  uhole  regiment — circumstances  so 
utterly  inconsistent  with  their  long  career,  that  the  public 
judgment  on  the  subject  can  only  be  satisfied  by  a  most 
careful  inquiry  into  the  causes  of  the  change,  and  all  the 
circumstances  of  the  case. 

Two  early  Commissions  of  Inquiry — the  first,  that  which 
under  British  rule  produced  Sir  John  Barrows  book,  the 
second,  which  under  Dutch  authority  is  reported  in  Pro- 
fessor Lichstenstein's  w'ork — decided  the  point  that  humane 
intercourse  with  the  aborigines  is  the  best  policy ;  but 
both  left  to  future  settlement  the  means  by  which  such 
humane  intercourse  should  be  effectually  conducted,  and 
the  bad  system  which  both  Commissions  reproved,  long 
resisted  rational  reform.    Both  of  these  Commissions  recocj- 


CIRCUIT  COUKTS.  135 

nised  the  utility  of  religious  Missionary  Institutions,  which 
were  now  increased  by  those  of  the  London  Society,  dealt  with 
somewhat  jealously  by  the  Dutch  Government  of  a  colony 
recently  conquered  by  England.  All  these  Institutions, 
however,  met  with  much  opposition  on  the  part  of  many  of 
the  colonists  whose  violence  they  checked.  It  was  Dr.  Van- 
derkemp,  and  Mr.  Eead,  senior,  who  still  survives,  by  whom 
some  measure  of  justice  was  obtained  for  the  Hottentots — 
not  only  for  those  who  were  at  the  Missionary  Stations, 
but  for  the  whole  race,  throughout  the  colony.  An 
affecting  appeal,  from  Mr.  Read's  pen,  published  in 
England,  revealed  the  terrible  atrocities  inflicted  on  the 
Hottentots  by  some  of  the  colonists,  and  thus  led  to  the 
establishment  of  circuit  courts.  This  was  the  first  act 
of  civil  interference  on  the  part  of  the  philanthropists  to 
serve  the  natives.  Those  courts  did  much  to  check  wrong, 
and  to  stimulate  the  local  authorities  to  do  right ;  but  how 
ineffectual  all  the  means  yet  employed  for  this  end  have 
proved,  may  be  inferred  from  the  astounding  declaration 
of  Sir  Andries  Stockenstrom,  a  few  years  ago,  before  the 
assembled  Cape  public,  that  one-tenth  part  of  the  injuries 
inflicted  on  the  natives  of  South  Africa  Jiad  not  yet  been 
told  to  the  British  Parllame7it,  the  British  Government,  and 
the  British  nation! 

At  this  period,  in  the  first  quarter  of  the  nineteenth 
century,  some  of  the  eastern  Hottentots  still  possessed 
cattle,  with  land  of  their  own ;  but  they  wei'e  generally 
fast  sinking  by  the  operation  of  a  wretched  administration 
of  the  law,  under  a  system  of  policy  not  less  absurd  than 
cruel,  and  under  gross  prejudices  which  impolicyand  injust- 
ice fatally  encouraged.  They  were  compelled  to  servo  at  in- 
adequate wages,  and  they  were  consequently  most  wretchedly 
clotlied,  ill-lodged,  and  so  driven  to  steal  to  get  suHicient 
food.  The  sheep-skin  kaross  of  the  days  of  their  independ- 
ence was  a  rich  mantle  compared  with  the  mangled  rags 
now  allowed  them  ;  their  well-filled  bee-hive  of  former 
times  was  a  palace  before  the  bare  hut  given  on  sufferance 


136  COMPULSORY  SERVICE. 

by  the  colonist;  the  ofFal  of  his  slaughter-house,  for  the 
Hottentot's  women  and  children,  was  comparative  stan^a- 
tion.  In  short,  the  lot  of  the  Hottentot  was  one  of  unre- 
mitting and  unrequited  toil. 

The  last  Hottentot  occupant  of  his  own  land,  Stuunnan, 
being  hateful  to  the  colonists,  who  saw  in  his  independence 
a  reproach  to  their  cupidity,  and  a  refuge  to  his  oppressed 
fellow  countrymen,  Avas  at  last  entrapped,  and,  after  being 
shut  up  in  a  small  island  in  Table  Bay,  he  was  hurried  off 
illegally  to  New  South  Wales.  His  case  was  strongly  re- 
presented to  England,  and  he  was  ordered  to  be  restored 
home.  Mercy  came  too  late — he  had  died  at  Sydney,  a 
banished  exile,  although  not  a  convicted  criminal ! 

After  being  stripped  of  their  lands,  the  Hottentots  were 
deprived  of  their  liberty,  without  having  the  poor  protection 
of  an  owner "s  interest  in  their  welfare.  They  were  compelled 
to  submit  to  forced  service,  and  too  often  subjected  to  cruel 
personal  violence,  with  insufficient  means  of  redress.  Their 
children  were  liable  to  apprenticeship,  like  slaves,  for  long 
terms  of  years.  They  were  themselves  confined  to  narrow 
districts,  on  pain  of  punishment  as  vagi'ants.  The  written 
contract  itself,  intended  for  their  protection,  was  perverted 
to  their  ruin,  as  seen  in  the  following  cases  : — A  lai'ge 
number  of  the  members  of  a  Missionary  Institution  had, 
so  lately  as  in  1829,  been  inveigled  by  a  neighbouring 
colonist  to  seiwe  hira,  in  consideration  of  debts  incurred 
for  brandy.  As  a  first  term  was  working  out,  he  let  the  men 
have  more  brandy  at  exorbitant  prices,  and  took  from 
them  engagements  to  continue  to  sen-e  him.  In  one  case 
he  had  taken  such  an  engagement  for  forty-nine  years — in 
many  others  for  shorter  periods.  The  wages  stij^ulated 
Avere  exceedingly  low,  as  the  debts  were  to  be  jiaid  by  the 
seiwice  of  the  men.  The  result  was  gi-eat  destitution  in 
their  families,  and  general  misery.  The  magistrates  re- 
fused to  interfere  with  the  "  contracts,"  which  were  in  due 
form.     What  was  to  be  done  ?     Lesfal  advice  was  taken  at 


PEESOXAL  VIOLEKCE.  137 

Cape  Town  ;  and  at  the  Circuit  Court  the  formidable  con- 
tracts were  attached  for  fraud.  The  plea  succeeded,  and 
they  were  all  quashed,  with  great  threats  of  appeal  against 
the  decision.  The  triumph  against  the  oppressor  was  great; 
but  it  was  gained  only  by  a  concurrence  of  favourable 
circumstances, —  the  liberal  support  of  the  Missionary 
patrons  of  the  Hottentots,  the  means  of  making  a  patient 
inquiry  into  the  extraordinary  complication  of  knaveries  in 
which  the  unconscionable  colonist  had  entangled  these 
poor  labourers,  and  the  pi-esence  of  a  just  judge  familiar 
with  the  character  of  all  the  parties. 

Another  group  of  cases  occurred  at  another  Missionary 
Institution,  Bethelsdorp.  They  were  the  cases  of  Hotten- 
tots beaten  and  picketed  by  colonists  with  singular  barba- 
rity. The  offenders  were  pursued  at  the  magistrate's  petty 
court,  but  only  with  partial  success.  Every  evasion  was 
practised  that  a  partial  functionary  could  resort  to,  and 
several  of  the  complaints  rejected,  against  the  clearest  evi- 
dence. In  this  case,  however,  an  appeal  was  addressed  to 
the  Governor  of  the  colony,  and  the  functionary  punished 
for  his  manifest  injustice,  by  removal  from  his  post. 

These  were  some  events  of  unceasing  occurrence,  which 
the  arrival  of  British  settlers  in  Albany,  in  18^0,  rather 
aggi-avated  than  checked  ;  but  a  second  time  philanthropic 
interference  came  in  aid  of  the  aborigines.  In  18'2"2,  Mr. 
Wilberforce  was  their  advocate;  and  the  impatience  of  the 
settlers  under  grievances  peculiar  to  themselves,  compelled 
the  home  G  overnment  to  send  a  new  Commission  of  Inquiry 
to  South  Africa.  The  result  was  a  grave  exposure  of  the 
injuries  so  long  done  to  the  Hottentots,  and  a  full  vindica- 
tion of  the  Missionaiy  Institutions,  at  which  mainly  they 
were  protected.  It  had  long  been  a  favourite  object  with 
many  inconsiderate  colonists  to  seek  for  the  supjiression 
of  these  Institutions,  on  the  ground  of  their  encouraging 
the  Hottentots  in  idleness.  The  real  objection  to  them 
was,  that  they  helped  the   labourer  to   stand   firm  on  his 


IfiS  MAGNA  CHARTA  OF  THE  HOTTENTOTS 

ile:aan<l  for  reasonable  wages.  The  Commissioners  re- 
ported in  their  favour,  and  recommended  strongly  the 
abolition  of  every  form  of  forced  labour. 

To  these  Commissioners,  and  to  the  enlightened  zeal  of 
Sir  Richard  Bourke,  then  Governor  of  the  colony,  is  to 
be  attributed  the  passing  of  a  local  law,  afterwards  con- 
firmed in  England,  which  has  justly  been  called  the  Magna 
Charta  of  the  Hottentots.  This  was  the  Fiftieth  Ordinance, 
which  simply  placed  these  people  on  an  equalitij  with  the 
whites — a  point  of  vast  moment  in  itself,  but  which  required 
to  be  followed  up  by  wise  measures,  and  by  their  active 
execution,  if  it  be  wished  to  give  real  life  to  a  principle  by 
working  it  out  to  its  legitimate  consequences. 

It  would  be  an  offence  against  truth  and  justice  to  with- 
hold, in  this  portion  of  the  history  of  the  Hottentots  which 
we  are  now  reviewing,  the  award  of  honour  due  to  the 
Eev.  Dr.  Philip,  for  his  unremitting  efforts  in  favour  of  the 
civil  rights  of  that  people.  Not  the  less  praise  is  due  to 
His  Excellency  Governor  Bourke,  who  jjassed  that  colonial 
Magna  Charta,  the  Fiftieth  Ordinance,  because  great  praise 
is  attributed  to  Dr.  Philijj  for  all  that  long  series  of  noble 
and  unremitting  efforts,  both  in  the  colony  and  in  England, 
which  issued  in  the  "consummation  so  devoutly  wished." 
The  voice  of  the  cry  of  the  oppressed  would  have  died 
away  on  desert  air,  so  far  as  human  interference  was  con- 
cerned, had  not  a  powerful  advocacy  been  called  forth  on 
their  behalf,  and  a  powerful  pen  wielded  in  defence  of  their 
neglected  rights.  Dr.  Philip  knew  intimately  the  facts  of 
the  cases  of  wrong  and  oppression  under  which  that  por- 
tion of  the  colonial  population  had  writhed,  and  he  felt 
that,  armed  with  such  facts,  his  position  was  strong  and 
impregnable.  His  facts  might  be  scorned,  but  they  could 
not  be  denied.  There  was  evidence,  that  no  prejudice,  nor 
sophistry  could  evade.  The  records  of  the  Colonial  Office 
contained  that  evidence;  it  would  therefore  have  been  most 
unwise  as  well  as  cruel  to  have  withheld  any  longer  the 
righteous   measure  of  Hottentot   emancipation,   and  the 


GOVERNMENT  GRANTS  OF  LAND.  139 

removal  of  all  civil  disabilities  from  people  of  colour.  It 
accorded  with  the  benevolent  sentiments  and  feelings  of 
General  Bourke  to  pass  the  ordinance  in  question.  Dr. 
Philip  was  at  that  time  in  England,  and,  aided  by  powerful 
and  influential  friends  of  humanity,  he  sought,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  obtaining  the  Royal  confirmation  of  the  colonial 
measure,  so  that  it  should  no  longer  be  simply  a  colonial 
measure,  but  permanently  established  law,  such  as  could 
be  neither  modified  nor  rescinded  but  by  the  Parliament 
of  the  nation. 

Another  extreme  grievance  to  the  Hottentots,  since  being 
stripped  of  their  own  lands,  has  been  their  difficulty  in 
getting  even  small  grants  of  the  soil.  The  Government 
has  never  been  so  shameless  as  to  pass  a  law  declaring 
them  incapable  of  holding  land  ;  but  it  habitually  abstains 
from  making  them  grants  of  it,  and  their  wages  are  too 
low  to  enable  them  to  make  any  real  acquisitions.  To  the 
Parliamentai7  calls  of  1822  and  1824,  the  return  was  200 
acres  being  gi'anted  to  six  Hottentot  families  in  ten  years ; 
and  this,  in  a  country  where  a  white  man  considers  himself 
ill-used  if  his  farm  is  under  2000  acres.  It  would  be  a 
melancholy  addition  to  the  fact,  that  one  of  the  six  grants 
was  ordered  by  the  Government  to  be  taken  from  its  Hot- 
tentot owner  for  an  Irish  settler,  if  the  scandal  had  not 
been  prevented  by  his  honest  refusal  to  "  ruin  a  poor 
Hottentot  family." 

"Before  I  left  Europe,"  said  he,  "to  settle  iii  South  Africa,  it 
never  was  my  intention  to  be  the  cause  of  tlistressuig  the  peaceable 
inhabitants  in  possession  of  their  soil.  Zwarts'  (the  Hottentot's) 
industry  and  superior  cleanliness  struck  me  to  be  such  as  to  give  him 
strong  claims  to  the  consideration  of  Government.  I  came  out  here 
determined  not  to  be  the  instrument  of  unhappiness  to  any  individual, 
and  I  should  ill  discharge  my  duty,  as  a  man  and  a  Christian,  were 
I  to  accept  of  Varkens'  Fountain,  to  the  ruin  of  a  poor  llottentot 
family." 

Dr.  Philip  faithfully  records  the  case  ;  and  the  name  of 
the  colonist,  William  Parker,  of  Cork,  well  deserves  the 
tribute  of  honour  thus  paid  to  his  noble  disinterestedness. 


140  KAT  kivet;  settlement. 

A  time  came  for  change  on  this  head  ;  and  in  further- 
ance of  it,  a  free  Hottentot  settlement  was  formed  in  1829, 
at  the  Kat  River,  on  the  frontier — one  of  the  scenes  of  the 
present  Hottentot  disasters.  It  was  a  great  error  to  place 
them  upon  a  spot  from  which  the  Kaffirs  were  just  ejected; 
but  it  was  worse  to  limit  their  gi-ants  mainly  to  such  a 
locality.  The  sparseness  of  population  being  the  bane  of 
the  Cape  colony,  a  liberal  distribution  of  land  in  small 
parcels  to  the  poorer  coloured  people  would  fill  up  many 
a  gap,  to  their  benefit  and  the  public  advantage. 

The  conduct  of  the  Hottentots  in  their  new  homes  was 
beyond  all  praise ;  and  men  of  eveiy  class  have  acknow- 
ledged it,  except  those  who  want  their  sei-viees  for  too  low 
wages.  To  a,  claim  which  they  modestly  made  after  being 
ten  years  settled,  to  be  allowed  to  ser\^e  on  juries  at  the 
Circuit  Court,  the  Attorney- General  replied,  with  a  frank 
admission  of  their  title  to  this  distinction,  by  "worthily 
elevating  their  social  condition  in  a  course  of  prosperous 
industry." 

Unworthy  enemies  they  have  had  in  their  new  homes, 
upon  this  exposed  frontier,  as  they  had  them  in  their 
sheltered  Missionary  homes.  Even  a  superintendent  of 
the  settlement,  who  was  to  protect  them,  but  imprudently 
selected  from  among  the  prejudiced  colonists,  ventured  to 
make  an  official  report,  full  of  mis-statements  to  their  dis- 
credit. The  Governor  of  the  colony  rashly  believed  the 
false  statement,  and  gave  it  forth  with  the  sanction  of  his 
approving  proclamations.  Both  were  rebuked  as  they 
deser\'ed,  by  the  local  press ;  and  what  was  felt  more 
severely  by  the  offending  functionary,  the  Governor's 
successor,  the  present  Sir  Hariy  Smith,  after  examining 
minutely  the  whole  of  the  slandered  settlement,  accepted 
its  vindication  as  complete. 

But  the  testimony  of  Governors,  and  other  visitors  to 
the  Kat  River  settlement,  is  not  needed  in  England,  to 
inform  the  public  what  manner  of  men  the  Hottentots  are, 
who  inhabit  that  settlement.     One  of  these  men  has  been 


PAKLIAMENTAEY  COMMITTEE.  J  41 

seen  and  heard  among  us.  He  worthily  represented  his 
people  before  a  Committee  of  the  House  of  Commons. 
At  many  meetings  throughout  the  country,  he  proved  to 
willing  hearers,  that  eloquence  and  high  principle  are  not 
the  exclusive  attributes  of  Europeans.  In  Andries  Stoffels, 
the  despised  Hottentot  stood  before  the  civilized  world,  a 
perfectly  civilized  man,  and  a  Christian ;  and  it  is  deeply 
to  be  deplored,  that  his  unexpected  decease,  as  he  was 
reaching  home,  prevented  that  good  and  able  man  con 
fii-ming  by  his  report  of  what  he  saw  in  England, — the  trust 
of  his  kindred  in  our  justice,  and  their  hopes  of  a  better 
future  under  our  protection. 

The  Committee  of  1835-7,  before  which  Stoffels  ap- 
peared, furnished  new  grounds  for  the  claims  of  the  abo- 
rigines, but  failed  to  follow  up  its  own  convictions.  The 
minister  of  the  day  doubted  its  utility,  although  Parlia- 
ment accepted  it  wdth  acclamation.  It  formed  the  third 
example  of  the  successful  interference  of  the  philanthro- 
pists in  the  civil  affairs  of  the  natives,  connected  with  the 
colonies. 

Even  after  the  Kaffir  wars  of  1835  and  1846,  the  Hot- 
tentots had  still  to  wage  the  old  struggle  against  prejudice. 
In  vain  had  they  stood  in  the  breach,  and  covered  the 
colonists  from  many  assaults.  A  powerful  party  hates 
them,  and  the  Government  still  halts  between  two  opinions 
respecting  them.  It  dares  not,  and  can  hardly  wish  to 
countenance  the  avowed  object  of  many  to  destroy  their 
freedom,  and  directly  make  them  drudges.  But  its  acts 
tend  to  their  ruin.  It  appoints  over  them  magistrates  who 
must  side  with  their  enemies — who  are  their  enemies — 
and  whom  it  rebukes  too  late  wlien  acting  hostilely  against 
them.  A  vac/rant  law — in  effect,  the  old  system  of  forced 
service — is  perpetually  asked  for ;  which  the  Government 
encourages,  by  leaving  the  questions  open  to  considera- 
tion, and  by  denyiijg  to  the  Hottentots  the  share  of  the 
public  lands  which  is  their  right,  and  would  eff(u;tually 
check  vagrancy.      The  Government  even  encourages  the 


142  KAFFIU  WARS. 

foolish,  -wicked  outcry  against  Missionary  Institutions,  by 
leaving  their  continuance  open  to  doubt.  Thus  there  has 
grown  up  an  alarm  in  the  minds  of  the  Hottentots,  pro- 
ductive of  the  worst  effects  ;  and  that  alarm  is  justified  by 
tlie  way  in  which  they  have  lately  been  treated.  A  witness 
of  the  highest  authority,  Sir  Andries  Stockenstrom,  last 
year  warned  the  Cape  Government  of  its  danger;  and  his 
warning  contains  a  detail  of  the  gravest  facts  : — 

"  Last  Tuesday,"  said  he,  "  9th  July,  1850,  arrived  at  this  place, 
Botha,  of  Kat  River.  This  man  is  a  rude,  unlettered  functionary, 
but  Her  Majesty  has  not  in  her  dominions  a  more  loyal  subject  nor  a 
braver  soldier  ;  and  by  his  services  during  the  Kaihr  wars  of  1835  and 
1846,  he  has  conferred  a  lasting  obligation  on  the  colony  and  its 
government.  He  addressed  me,  as  nearly  as  I  can  give  them  literally, 
in  these  words  : — 

'"I  know  that  your  usual  aiLSwer  will  be,  that  we  are  mad  in  coming 
to  you  -with  oixr  grievances,  as  you  are  nothing  more  than  a  Boer  in 
the  land ;  but  tmless  you  die  or  fly  the  country,  you  shall  have  to 
hear  the  groans  of  every  oppressed  class  in  South  Africa ;  and  such 
is  the  state  of  excitement  in  the  Kat  River  at  present,  that  without 
some  assistance  or  ad\-ice,  I  do  not  know  how  to  prevent  serious  con- 
sequences. You  must  remember  the  immigration  of  some  families  of 
the  Gonaqua  Hottentots  into  the  Kat  River  settlement,  some  twenty 
years  ago,  many  of  whom  obtained  erfs,  and  others,  promises  of 
similar  grants.  They  ever  considered  themselves  as  much  Her 
Majesty's  subjects  as  I  am,  and  as  such  did  Bm-gher  duty,  and  fought 
bravely  for  the  British  Cro-\\-n,  during  both  the  Kaffir  wars.  They 
paid  taxes  to  the  colonial  Government  as  long  as  they  were  exacted, 
were  a  tower  of  strength  to  the  rear  districts,  and  there  never  was  any 
complaint  against  them.  Some  time  since,  a  number  of  Kaffirs  came 
and  squatted  dowTi  in  the  settlement :  the  inhabitants  requested  that 
they  might  be  removed.  Accordingly,  this  was  done  under  the  direc- 
tion of  the  civil  Commissioner  of  Fort  Beaufort ;  but  immediately 
after  this  proceeding,  the  Kat  River  magistrate,  headuig  a  body  of 
Kaffir  police,  caused  to  be  burned  out  not  only  those  who  had  come 
in  since  the  war,  but  the  Gona-Hottentots,  to  the  last  who  had  been 
twenty  years  in  the  settlement,  with  all  the  Fingoe  servants.  Not  a 
moment's  warning  was  given.  I  remonstrated,  the  Hottentots  en- 
treated for  their  friends  in  vain ;  nothing  availed,  neither  the  cries  of 
the  children,  nor  the  tears  of  the  mothers,  some  of  whom  were  in 
childbed  with  babes  of  three  or  four  days'  old,  on  one  of  the  coldest 


TREATMENT  OF  THE  HOTTENTOTS.  14:J 

days  of  this  inclement  season,  and  that  on  a  Sunday  (the  day  of  peace, 
rest,  and  prayer),  when  even  if  the  act  had  been  lawful,  there  was 
not  the  remotest  pretext  for  haste.  The  Kaffir  police  held  the  fire- 
brands ready  to  ignite  the  huts,  whilst  the  inmates  and  property  were 
being  bundled  out  of  them — the  Kaffir  police  exultingly  shouting, 
'  To  day  we  burn  Botha  out  of  the  Blinkwater,  as  he  bm-nt  us  out  of 
the  Amatola  last  war.'  The  police  took  possession  of  aU  the  cattle, 
some  of  which  has  been  lost.  Thus  about  fifty  families  have  been 
burnt  out,  who  were  our  friends,  protectors,  and  defenders  in  two 
wars,  and  driven  like  felons  and  outlaws  among  the  very  enemies 
against  whom  they  fought,  and  at  whose  mercy  they  will  be.  The 
magistrate  has  dismissed  me ;  why,  I  cannot  teU.  Is  it  possible, 
that  British  subjects  have  to  submit  to  such  treatment  ? 

"  '  Now  here  you  have  another  case. — In  Lower  Blinkwater,  the 
commonage  belonging  to  and  measured  out  for  the  village  has  been  given 
to  a  white  man,  who  has  been  appointed  superintendent.  It  is  of 
course  quite  impossible  to  keep  from  the  land  the  cattle  of  the  vil- 
lagers, to  whom  this  land  belongs,  and  which  cattle  has  been  for 
years  accustomed  to  graze  thereon ;  the  consequence  is,  that  the 
cattle  of  these  villagers,  the  lawful  proprietors  of  the  land,  are  almost 
daily  impounded  by  the  said  superintendent,  who  enriches  himself 
by  the  penalties  which  he  claims  as  damages.  Can  human  forbear- 
ance long  submit  to  such  galling  oppression  ? 

"  '  We  have  lately  had  a  case  m.  which  the  magistrate  sentenced 
some  persons  to  enormous  fines,  and  others  to  hard  labour.  The 
sentence  was  carried  into  execution ;  the  Government  found  it  so 
unjust  that  it  ordered  the  money  to  be  returned ;  but  for  those  who 
were  dealt  with  as  felons,  there  is  not  a  shadow  of  redress  !'      .     .     . 

"  My  answer  to  Botha  was  this  : — '  You  are  not  without  remedy.  If 
the  local  Government  can  give  you  no  redress,  you  have  the  colonial 
Secretary  of  State  to  complain  to,  and  failing  there,  your  appeal  lies 
to  Parliament.  For  despair  there  is  no  cause.  .  .  .  The  Sovereign 
assuredly  wishes  you  to  be  governed  with  justice  and  equity.'    .    .     . 

"  To  the  agitated  complainant  I  deemed  it  unnecessary  to  say 
more  ;  but  to  her  majesty's  ministers  and  the  twelve  judges  in  West- 
minster, I  would  respectfully  submit  the  question,  whether  there 
exist  any  power  on  the  face  of  the  earth,  competent  to  march  an  armed 
force  into  the  colony,  especially  one  composed  of  what  we  are  pleased 
to  call  '  irreclaimable  savages  and  untamcable  wolves,'  to  destroy  the 
property  of,  and  maltreat  and  oppress  her  Majesty's  peaceable,  loyal 
subjects,  in  the  manner  above  detailed. 

"  The  Kat  River  people,  so  lately  and  so  justly  considered  one  of 
the  most  loyal  communities  in  the  colony,  after  having  been  twice 


114         PRESENT  CONDITION  OF  THE  HOTTENTOTS. 

mainly  instnimcutal  in  saving  the  colony,  and  being  rewarded  by 
malicious  cuhminy  imd  the  denial  of  justice,  have  from  later  events 
taken  it  into  their  heads  that  a  plot  exists  somewhere  to  goad  them 
on  to  some  excess,  and  fui-nish  the  plea  for  their  expulsion  from  the 
only  nook  in  the  land  of  their  fathers  which  remains  to  them,  and  in 
which  they  hoped  to  rest  the  last  ashes  of  their  expiring  race.  Of 
the  present  feelings  of  these  men  Botha  is  a  specimen." 

Hence  the  present  crisis.  Hence  the  rebellion  of  so 
many  Hottentots.  Hence  the  indiscriminate  vengeance  of 
the  commander  of  the  frontier  upon  the  Kat  Eiver  people. 
Hence  the  advocates  of  bnital  force  in  Albany  are  tempted 
to  take  advantage  of  this  crisis,  to  call  for  the  suppression 
of  Missionary  Institutions. 

The  militaiy  commander  seizes  the  whole  Hottentot 
population,  confiscates  all  their  property,  and  breaks  up 
the  settlement.  The  illegality  of  his  act,  even  under  mar- 
tial law,  is  as  notorious  as  the  innocence  of  many  of  these 
people  is  capable  of  plain  proof.  Success,  too,  has  so 
blinded  the  enemies  of  the  Hottentots,  that  the  fury  of  the 
soldier  in  the  field  has  extended  to  the  reflections  of  the 
closet. 

"  On  the  eastern  frontier,"  says  the  leading  journal  of  the  preju- 
diced colonists,  "  a  contest  between  stern  justice  and  mistaken  philan- 
thropy has  been  raguig  upwards  of  thirty  years.  Were  it  competent 
to  decide  the  issue  on  the  spot,  this  coiild  not  endure.  Unfortimately 
the  case  had  to  be  referred  to  the  Home  Government,  and  to  the 
British  people,  who,  influenced  by  certam  powerful,  presumedly  reli- 
gious associations,  have  given  their  voices  against  their  fellow-coim- 
trymen.  There  has,  however,  never  been  so  important  a  crisis  as  is 
now  at  hand,  and  each  party,  finding  it  bears  very  much  the  aspect 
of  a  death-struggle,  is  preparing  its  weapons  accordingly.  The  voice 
of  every  colonist  must  be  loud  in  demanding,  that  every  Institution, 
where  a  number  of  the  coloured  races  are,  or  can  be  drawn  together, 
shall  be  broken  up,  and  restricted  from  re-assembling.  If  we  destroy, 
or  prevent  the  bvdlding  of  the  nest,  we  shall  not  be  liable  to  the 
incursions  of  the  brood."  —  G-raham's  Town  Journal,  March  15, 
1850. 

And  well  does  this  organ  of  the  Border  colonists,  mis 
guided  by  the  circumstances  of  their  jiosition,  appreciate 


COMMISSIONS  OF  INQUIRY.  145 

the  spirit  which  these  events  will  rouse  in  England.  It  is 
to  the  impartial  public  at  home  that  the  appeal,  made  in 
times  past  with  effect,  must  be  made  again.  Wilberforce 
and  Buxton,  the  early  defenders  of  the  Hottentots,  when 
just  escaping  from  the  deepest  degradation,  must  now 
tread  in  their  fathers'  steps,  and  hold  out  a  helping  hand 
to  men  upon  whom  former  aids  were  not  thrown  away. 
Such  an  appeal  liome  saved  the  remnant  of  the  Hottentots 
in  1808;  strengthened  them  in  18'2"2;  added  to  them  new 
strength  in  1830;  and  must  now,  in  this  last  "death- 
struggle,"  prove  to  mankind  at  large,  that  we  are  not  sunk 
below  the  men  from  whom  we  have  sprung. 

The  Aborigines  Committee  of  1835-7,  proposed  com- 
missions of  local  inquiry  into  the  condition  of  all  the 
aborigines  connected  with  the  colonies.  The  proposition 
should  be  revived.  The  expense  of  Commissioners  from 
England  is  not  necessary  in  all  cases.  On  the  contrary, 
with  one  sent  from  home  for  each  great  group  of  colonies, 
there  should  be  associated  several  of  the  inhabitants  of 
various  classes  ayid  colours.  The  result  would  be  a  body 
of  evidence,  upon  Avhich  systems  of  humane  policy,  suited 
to  the  peculiar  wants  of  each  locality,  could  be  formed, 
and,  what  is  of  vast  importance,  dispositions  to  realize  such 
systems  would  be  fostered  among  the  inhabitants  of  each 
locality. 


CHAPTEE    VII. 


KAT  RIVER  SETTLEMEKT ITS  ORIGIN ^PARTIES  EMIGRATING  THITHER 

ENTHUSIASM FREEDOM TESTIMONIES OUT-STATIONS RELIGIOUS 

INSTITUTIONS CHURCH    GOVERNMENT SCHOOLS PRESS VISIT  TO 

LOCATIONS SCENERY FOLIAGE TINTS INDUSTRY    OF   NATIVES 

NATIVE  HOSPITALITY GEOLOGY MAN  IN  LIOn's  MOUTH SUBSTI- 
TUTE FOR  BELLS KAT  RIVER  NO  FAILURE TREATMENT EXAMI- 
NATION OF  SCHOOLS PRINTING LETTER  TO  DEPUTATION DIA- 
GRAMS  THINGS  THAT  ARE  WANTING SCOTCH  MISSION — LANDSCAPE 

CHILDREN ORDINATION  AT  TIDMANTON TESTIMONIAL  OF  ELDERS 

AND  DEACONS NATIVE  IMPROVEMENT LETTER  FROM  VAN  ROOYEN. 

The  preceding  chapter  has  contained  a  sketch  of  the 
civil  histors'  of  the  Hottentots  generally,  m  their  relation  to 
the  Cape  Colony.  This  chapter  may  he  suitably  devoted  to 
their  histoiy  in  connexion  with  the  settlement  of  the  Kat 
River  in  particular,  and  embracing  the  religious  as  well 
as  the  civil  aspect  of  the  case.  It  has  been  stated  that  the 
Hottentots  were  brought  to  the  settlement  in  1829.  Some 
striking  circumstances  in  relation  to  that  movement  were 
related  in  a  Eeport  delivered  at  a  public  meeting,  held  at 
Philipton,  Kat  River,  in  September,  1851.  I  shall  avail 
myself  of  a  portion  of  it.  The  public  meeting  was  held  on 
the  occasion  of  the  fiftieth  anniversaiy  of  the  Rev.  J.  Read's 
arrival  as  Missionary  in  the  colony.  The  Report  states, 
that  "the  Commissioner- General,  now  Sir  Andries  Stock- 
enstrom,  and  the  Governor  of  the  colony.  Sir  G.  L.  Cole,  the 
originators  of  the  project,  and  to  whom  the  execution  of  it 
was  intrusted,  went  personally  in  some  instances  and  sent 
in  others,  to  the  Missionary  Institutions,  villages,  towns, 


KAT  RIVEE  SETTLEMENT — ITS  ORIGIN.  147 

and  other  places  in  the  colony,  to  invite  the  coloured 
classes  to  emigrate  to  the  Kat  Kiver.  This  was  intended  to 
render  the  natives  some  amends  for  the  loss  of  tlie  extensive 
country  possessed  by  their  forefathers,  and  for  the  various 
wrongs  which  had  been  inflicted  on  them.  The  measure 
was  designed  also  politically,  for  the  defence  and  protection 
of  this  line  of  frontier.  Prior  to  this  period  no  person  of 
colour  had  held  land  in  the  colony," — not  because  they 
were  interdicted  from  doing  so  by  any  positive  law,  but 
simply  as  arising  out  of  the  unfavourable  circumstances  in 
which  they  were  held. 

"  The  parties  then,  who  were  disposed  to  emigrate  and 
to  trv'  their  fortunes  at  the  Kat  Biver  Settlement,  took  their 
property  with  them.  In  the  amount  of  it  they  differed 
considerably  from  one  another,  as  well  as  in  intelligence, 
and  the  habits  of  civilized  life.  Those  that  came  from  the 
Baviaans'  Biver,  and  who  are  designated  Bastaards,  and 
others  of  the  same  class  from  among  the  Boers  or  farmers, 
were  generally  men  of  some  property,  consisting  of  oxen, 
horses,  sheep  and  goats.  In  manners  and  customs,  and 
in  their  degree  and  form  of  civilization,  they  naturally 
resembled  the  farmers  among  whom  they  had  been  brought 
up,  and  from  whom  they  claimed  paternal  lineage.  In 
religious  matters  they  adopted  the  Dutch  form  of  church 
government.  They  were  a  moral,  thrifty,  and  industrious 
people. 

"  The  emigrants  who  came  from  the  towns,  villages,  and 
Missionary  Institutions,  possessed  the  same  kind  of 
property,  but  to  a  less  extent.  They  had,  however,  con- 
siderably the  advantage  of  their  comjjanions  in  general 
knowledge.  Many  of  them,  too,  had  made  considerable 
attainments  in  the  industrial  arts,  and  were  good  carpen- 
ters, masons,  wheelwrights,  and  smiths.  From  their 
frequent  intercourse  with  European  Missionaries  and  their 
families,  their  manners  were  improved,  and  they  were, 
moreover,  to  a  large  extent,  people  of  religious  habits. 
Such  wei'e  the  elements  of  which  this  new  social  body  was 


1  18  ENTHUSIASM. 

lorniod.  Each  party  brought  its  own  quota  of  strength 
and  distinctive  qualification  to  this  exi)erimental  society  of 
enfranchised  men.  Each  party  was  no  doubt  of  consider- 
able service  to  the  other,  and  by  the  influence  of  each 
acting  reciprocally  on  the  other,  the  whole  body  improved. 
While  the  one  perhai^s  excelled  in  inspiring  the  religious 
sentiment,  the  other  rendered  good  service  in  such  a  com- 
munity, by  awakening  and  [strengthening  the  burgher 
sentiment.  The  people  from  the  Institutions  had  largely 
acquii'ed  the  habit  of  self-government,  while  those  from 
among  the  farmers,  having  been  under  constant  control,  and 
strict,  if  not  even  severe  surveillance,  were  so  far  less 
independent.  But  all  Avere  strictly  loyal  men,  and  they 
united  with  much  harmony  in  this  new  community. 

"A  well-known  spot  near  the  entrance  to  the  Kat  Eiver 
Valley,  now  called  William's  Toaati,  *  was  the  appointed 
rendezvous,  where  these  emigrants  assembled  by  hundreds, 
and  it  may  be  said,  by  thousands.  It  was  a  sort  of  journey 
to  Canaan.  It  was  a  spectacle  altogether  unique  in  South 
Africa,  and  wore  the  aspect  of  enthusiasm  and  high  expecta- 
tion. Some  came  on  pack  oxen,  some  on  sledges,  some  in 
carts,  and  all  who  could,  in  wagons,  either  of  their  ovsm, 
or  obtained  from  the  Missionary  Institutions.  Those  from 
Theopolis  had  the  most  property,  and  were  perhaps,  from 
associating  with  the  British  settlers  of  Albany,  the  most 
intelligent.  Those  who  came  from  Bethelsdorp  were  poor, 
but  pious  and  well  conducted. 

"  It  is  related  in  history,  that  when  the  power  of  imperial 
Home  Avas  on  the  decline,  and  she  was  obliged  to  cm-tail 
the  limits  of  her  dominions,  heralds  were  sent  out  to  the 
hitherto  subject  states,  to  aimounce  their  independence. 
So  unexpected  was  the  change,  and  so  eventful  the  theoiy, 
that  a  herald,  after  having  proclaimed  freedom  to  the  pro- 
vinces, felt  as  if  he  had  been  under  an  illusion,  and  he 
came  back  to  ask  the  messenger  whether  it  were  a  reality. 

*  It  was  then  called  the  Fort,  and  is  the  spot  where  the  excellent 
Missionary,  Joseph  Williams,  of  the  London  Missionarv  Societv  died. 


FREEDOM.  149 

This  the  Psalmist  of  Scripture  calls  '  being  like  them  that 
dream,'  when  the  Lord  turned  the  captivity  of  his  people. 
It  was  precisely  thus  with  the  newly  arrived  settlers  at  the 
Kat  River.  They  could  scarcely  believe  their  senses,  or 
realize  their  freedom  and  new  heritage.  '  This  was  the 
Lord's  doing,  and  it  was  wonderful  in  their  eyes.'  The 
Commissioner- General  was  on  the  spot,  and  addressed  the 
new  burghers  on  their  altered  position  and  prospects  in 
life,  encouraging  them  to  habits  of  industry,  sobriety, 
morality,  and  religious  feeling,  and  obedience  to  the  laws 
of  the  country. 

"  This  done,  he  formed  them  into  parties,  under  a  princi- 
pal, who  was  called  the  head  of  such  a  party.  These  were 
directed  to  select  spots  on  which  to  locate  themselves,  and 
divide  the  lands  into  '  erven  '  or  lots.  They  did  so,  and  in 
a  very  short  time  were  seen  dams,  sloots,  and  aqueducts, 
led  out  with  much  labour,  and  good  gardens  and  culti- 
vated fields  springing  up  in  numerous  directions.  The 
testimony  of  colonial,  Indian,  and  European  tourists  and 
travellers,  civil  and  military  functionaries  of  every  rank, 
advocates,  judges,  and  governors,  who  have  visited  the 
settlement,  have  related,  with  many  encomiums,  the  indus- 
tiy,  perseverance,  fortitude,  and  morality  of  the  native 
settlers.  Some  may  have  come  with  the  elation  and 
expectation  of  the  pursuers  of  the  golden  fleece,  or  may 
have  dreamt  of  riches  by  exemption  from  labour  and  toil, 
but  they  were  soon  undeceived.  They  had  to  make  their 
own  way,  by  the  sweat  of  their  brow,  and  through  many 
discouragements.  As  their  situation  was  an  experiment, 
the  founders  of  it  gave  them  no  pecuniary  or  other  aid, 
excepting  a  small  quantity  of  Indian  corn  seed  to  each 
person  ;  and,  although  they  were  constantly  out  on  military 
duty,  they  got  no  rations  of  any  kind. 

"  The  sufferings  which  the  people  had  to  endiu'c  in  the 
first  years  of  the  settlement,  were  very  great ;  but  where 
European  settlers  would  have  utterly  failed,  the  native 
emigrant,  by  his  knowledge  of  the  natural  products  of  the 


150  NATIVE  FUNCTIONARIES. 

country,  leeks,  berries,  A'c.  technically  called  '  veld  kos,' 
field  provisions,  remained  buoyant,  and  succeeded. 

"  Nor  were  these  the  only  trials  and  difficulties  they  had 
to  encounter.  Not  like  the  captives  from  Babylon,  while 
rebuilding  the  ancient  house  of  prayer,  had  they  to  use 
the  trowel  and  the  sword,  but  the  firelock  and  the  sword  in 
either  hand,  to  keep  out  the  high-spirited  Gaikas,  Avho, 
with  their  young  chief  Macomo,  the  Kaffir  Achilles,  had 
been  driven  out  of  these  their  patrimonial  lands  by  the 
Commissioner- General  and  Colonel  Somerset,  for  reasons 
which  we  do  not  here  rehearse,  but  which  are  fully 
recorded  in  the  evidence  of  the  Committee  of  Parliament 
which  sat  on  aboriginal  affairs  in  1836.  Although  then 
they  were  subject  to  accumulated  troubles  and  duties,  the 
knowledge  that  their  new  station  was  a  great  moral  and 
political  experiment,  and  that  they  were  a  spectacle  to  the 
world,  infused  new  life  into  them, — an  enthusiasm  that 
acted  with  electric  force  on  every  fibre  of  mind,  and  muscle 
of  body. 

"  The  Commissioner  -  General  next  appointed  native 
fiuictionaries,  viz.,  a  commandant,  with  several  field-cornets 
and  heads  of  parties.  Their  duties  were  civil  as  well  as 
martial ; — to  settle  or  arbitrate  petty  cases,  and  to  lead 
the  men  on  j^atrols,  commandoes,  and  wars.  In  greater 
matters,  they  were  subject  to  the  courts  in  Fort  Beaufort 
and  Graham's  To^vn.  By  this  means,  speedy  and  cheap 
justice  was  obtained,  and  litigiousness,  which  in  such  a 
state  of  society  is  common,  was  prevented.  Sir  A.  Stock- 
enstrom,  who  had  read  and  studied  human  nature  and  the 
varied  interests  of  society  comprehensively,  and  had  great 
knowledge  of  jurisprudence  and  the  art  of  government, 
knew  exactly  the  wants  of  such  a  community.  As  many 
legal  offences  are  artificial  and  capricious,  and  even  the 
laws  of  a  countr}^  and  the  precedents  of  its  legal  courts, 
may,  in  their  application,  be  either  too  wide  or  too  nar- 
row, too  light  or  too  crushing,  and  so  may  prove  highly 
disadvantageous   to  a  people,    the  Commissioner  encou- 


OUT-STATIONS.  151 

raged  the  people  to  settle,  as  much  as  possible,  their  civil 
cases  by  an  appeal  to  the  seniors.  This  succeeded  well, 
and  Commandant  Groepe,  with  his  field-cornets  and  heads 
of  parties,  entertained  and  decided  cases  with  patriarchal 
simplicity,  authority,  and  effectiveness. 

"  What,  then,  have  been  the  religions  institutions  and  pro- 
ceedings of  the  settlement  ?  The  people  of  Bethelsdorp, 
before  leaving  the  colony,  had  invited  their  Missionary, 
Mr.  Read,  sen.,  to  accompany  them.  Certain  jealousies  in 
the  colony  created  difficulties  in  the  way  of  this  arrange- 
ment, but  ultimately  it  was  effected,  and  has  proved  of 
great  value.*  The  pojiulation  of  the  whole  settlement 
amounts  now  to  about  5000,  the  great  majority  of  whom 
are  connected  with  the  London  Missionary  Society.  The 
central  station  is  PhilijJton  ;  a  second  important  station 
is  at  Balfour,  and  a  third  has  been  formed  at  Blinkwater, 
recently  called  Tidmanton. 

"  At  Philipton,  a  large  chapel,  eighty  feet  by  fol'ty-five, 
was  being  built  prior  to  the  war  of  1846,  and  would  long 
since  have  been  finished  but  for  that  fatal  and  melancholy 
interruption. 

"  The  people  subscribed  very  liberally  in  both  money  and 
materials  towards  it.  The  Society  also  aided  it  by  a  grant. 
From  exposure,  the  walls  have  been  greatly  damaged,  and 
a  large  part  will  have  to  be  taken  down.  The  old  chapel 
was  burnt  down  dm-ing  the  war,  but  has  since  been  rebuilt ; 
and  which  when  the  new  one  shall  be  finished,  will  be 
converted  into  school-rooms. 

"  There  are  also  eleven  out-stations  in  the  Kat  River. 
Before  the  war  there  were  twelve  day-schools,  and  several 
infant-schools  in  operation,  with  a  daily  attendance  of 
from  700  to  1000  children.  Tlierc  are  at  present  eight 
only  in  operation,  from  the  reduction  of  expenses  made 
by  the  deputation,  and  in  consequence  of  the  people  not 
having  been  able  to  raise  the  £-'300  which  tliey  guaran- 
teed for  the  carrying  on  of  the  work.*     It  is  much  to  be 

*  The  maximum  income  of  the  Auxiliary  Society,  before  the  war 
so  often  spoken  of,  was  above  £300  per  annum. 


15*2  CimnOH  GOVERNMENT. 

iamcntcd,  that  svu-h  institutions  should  languish  for  want 
of  poeuniary  aid.  Without  good  schools  the  people  will 
assuredly  retrograde  in  civilization  and  Christianity.  The 
schools  ixre  managed  by  a  committee,  composed  of  the 
senior  Missionary  as  chairman,  and  two  members  from 
each  of  the  eleven  out-stations.  The  schoolmasters  were 
all  trained  at  l^hilipton.  Within  ten  years,  forty  male 
and  female  teachers  have  been  trained  at  Philipton,  at  a 
cost  of  about  £5  each,  annually. 

"  The  church  at  Philipton  is  constituted  on  the  Presby- 
terian-Independent model.  The  church  court  is  com- 
posed of  ministers,  elders,  and  deacons.  The«two  last  are 
re-elected  every  two  years.  Every  member  has  a  vote  in 
the  affairs  of  the  church.  Besides  the  church  officers, 
there  are  above  twelve  lay  or  local  preachers,  who,  in 
rotation,  preach  at  all  the  out-stations,  (some  of  which  are 
from  seven,  ten,  and  twelve  miles  from  the  central  station) 
every  Sunday.  The  congregation  varies  on  Sundays  from 
400  to  500, — on  sacramental  occasions  to  between  600 
and  700, — and  at  the  anniversaries  to  above  1000.  The 
members  of  the  church  are  about  600. 

"  A  church  court,  composed  of  the  ministers  and  church 
officers,  is  held  monthly,  and  on  the  Saturday  night  pre- 
ceding the  first  Sunday  in  the  month,  the  church  meeting 
is  held, 

"  Here  is  also  a  Missionary-  committee  composed  of  the 
ministers  and  representatives  from  all  the  out-stations. 
The  chairman  and  secretary  are  members  of  the  congrega- 
tion. There  is  a  Juvenile  Missionary  Society,  whose  object 
it  is  to  send  teachers  to  the  neighbouring  tribes ;  Mrs.  J. 
Read,  the  Misses  Read,  and  other  pious  women,  are  the 
managers.  The  male  branch  is  under  a  male  juvenile 
committee.  Bazaars,  too,  are  held  by  the  fem.ale  com- 
mittee, for  the  object  above  specified.  Before  the  ruinous 
war  of  1846,  there  was  a  flourishing  school  of  industry  at 
Philipton,  with  branches  at  the  out-stations ;  also  Sunday 
and  evening  adult  schools  at  these  stations. 


BELIGIOUS  INSTITUTIONS.  153 

"  There  is  a  good  press  at  Philiptoxi,  but  not  worked  at 
present  for  want  of  funds.  An  active  press,  witli  a  weekly 
paper  and  montlily  periodical,  with  a  good  central  or  nor- 
mal school  at  Philipton,  and  some  other  good  schools  at 
Wilsonton,  Lushington,  and  Buxton,  are  things  greatly  to 
be  desired.  But  from  the  impoverished  state  of  the  people, 
through  drought,  and  locusts,  and  the  rust,  by  which  suc- 
cessive crops  of  gi'ain  have  been  destroyed,  nothing  can 
be  expected  for  these  schemes  fi^om  the  people  of  the 
settlement. 

"  It  should  have  been  mentioned  that  the  school-houses 
and  schoolmasters'  rooms  at  the  out-stations,  and  offices 
for  the  printing-press,  were  built  at  the  people's  expense. 
The  glass  windows  and  doors  were  paid  for  by  money 
collected  in  England.  There  are  also  Temperance  and 
Tee-total  societies  in  the  settlement,  which  have  done  great 
good  among  the  people. 

"  An  agricultural  society  has  also  been  established,  of 
which  the  magistrate  for  the  time  being  is  president,  and 
the  ministers  of  the  two  denominations,  field-commandant, 
field-cornets,  and  other  influential  persons  in  the  settle- 
ment, are  members. 

"  At  Balfour  there  is  the  Dutch  established  chui-ch,  of 
which  the  Rev.  W.  R.  Thomson,  a  gentleman  of  solid  and 
general  information,  piety,  and  amiable  manners,  is  minis- 
ter. There  are  two  churches  in  connexion  with  this  body. 
The  one  at  Hertzog  is  a  fine  octagonal  structure,  lately 
built  by  subscription  and  a  government  grant ;  the  other, 
at  Balfour,  is  a  small  edifice.  Mr  Thomson  has  several 
schools  in  his  own  connexion.  The  schools  at  Balfour  and 
Wilsonton  are  intended  for  the  children  of  families,  who 
may  be  connected  with  either  Messrs.  Read's  or  Mr.  Thom- 
son's congregations.  Mrs.  Thomson,  a  lady  of  high  ac- 
complishments, has  a  flourishing  school  for  Missionaries' 
daughters  at  Balfour,  and  teaches  also  several  native  gii'ls. 

"  Mr.  Thomson,  from  his  knowledge  of  medicine,  is  of 
essential  service  to  the  whole  settlement,  often  at  much 


154  VISIT  TO  LOCATIONS. 

inconvenience  and  expense  to  himself.     His  advice  is,  of 
course,  atforded  gratuitously." 

During  my  visit  to  Philipton  I  accompanied  Mr.  Read 
to  see  the  various  out-stations.  One  of  the  first  was  that 
which  bears  his  own  name,  "Readsdale,"  a  very  charming 
location,  about  seven  miles  from  Philipton.  The  field  cor- 
net came  over  early  and  brought  a  horse  for  my  use,  and 
then  accompanied  us  on  our  return.  We  had  some  de- 
lightful scenery,  and  which  would  have  been  still  more  so, 
but  for  a  mist  that  was  hanging  over  a  large  portion  of  the 
Winterberg.  The  scenery  is  remarkably  rich  and  grand  : 
the  magnificent  and  the  romantic  are  wonderfully  blended 
with  the  luxuriant  and  the  beautiful.  The  lofty  ranges 
of  the  Winterberg,  which  form  the  northern  boundary  of 
the  settlement,  constitute  a  scene  of  real  sublimity  and 
grandeur.  They  are  said  to  rise  about  three  thousand  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  are  probably  about  fifteen 
hundred  to  two  thousand  feet  above  the  settlements  at 
their  base.  The  forms  of  the  moimtains  are  diversified, 
but  usually  they  are  rounded  and  sloping  towards  the 
summits,  and  then  often  rise  majestically  and  pei^endicu- 
lai'ly.  The  lower  portions  of  this  vast  range  run  otf  into 
gentle  slopes  as  they  approach  the  valleys  of  the  settle- 
ment. They  are,  in  fact,  the  smaller  spurs  of  the  moun- 
tain range ;  the  larger  spurs  constitute  the  main  divisions 
between  the  settlements,  and  between  which  numerous 
streams  fall,  imgating  the  lower  grounds  and  then  running 
off  into  the  KatPiiver,  which  itself  joins  the  Great  Fish  Ptiver. 
These  streams  are  numerous,  and  afford  a  most  ample  and 
constant  supply  for  the  settlement,  and  they  are  led  out  by 
the  people  in  numerous  w^ater-courses  and  add  immeasur- 
able fertility  to  this  most  interesting  spot,  decidedly  the 
finest,  richest,  and  gi-andest  I  had  yet  seen  in  South 
Africa.  A  very  lai^ge  portion  of  this  mountain  range  is 
well  wooded.  The  woods  reach,  in  many  places,  to  the 
very  summits,  and  usually  clothe  the  ravines  to  a  gi-eat 
elevation.     Neither  is  this  mere  brush-wood  or  low  jungle, 


SCENERY FOLIAGE TINTS.  155 

but  timber  of  a  great  height  and  diameter ;  many  of  the 
trees  ai*e  sixty  feet  high.  Government  claims  the  right 
over  all  the  forest  that  is  not  measured  into  the  respective 
allotments  or  settlements.  I  found  about  eighty  saw-pits 
at  work.  For  the  right  to  fell  the  timber  the  people  take 
out  a  license,  and  jjay  six  shillings  per  load.  They  are 
excellent  sawyers,  and  convey  the  timber  so  prepared  to 
all  the  towns  and  farms  for  a  large  distance  around.  The 
most  valuable  timber  appears  to  be  what  is  termed  the 
yellow  wood,  which  grows  to  a  great  size,  and  is  exten- 
sively used  in  building.  The  foliage  of  the  forest  was 
exceedingly  fine,  and  the  tints  most  richly  varied.  One 
very  remarkable  feature  in  the  countiy  about  here  is  the 
tints  of  the  grass.  The  grass  was  dry  when  I  saw  it,  but 
utterly  unlike  our  dry  meadows  in  England ;  here  all  as- 
sumes a  reddish  hue,  varying  from  a  light  rose-blush  to  a 
deep  purple.  The  efi'ect  is  aided  by  contrast,  for  in  some 
places  the  grass  had  been  burnt  in  the  autumn,  and  the 
ground  remains  almost  black  ;  near  to  this  again  are  some- 
times found,  from  the  contiguity  of  springs  or  the  vicinity 
of  shade,  patches  of  a  lively  and  bright  green.  Innumer- 
able Eden-like  spots  exist,  over  which  one  is  tempted  to 
exclaim.  What  a  charming  spot  for  an  English  villa,  a 
mansion,  or  a  park  ! — May  the  natives  themselves  rise  in 
the  social  state,  so  as  to  enjoy  all  this  scenery,  and  the 
wealth  and  the  happiness  that  may  be  realized  beneath  the 
southern  skies,  as  much  as  the  cultivated  classes  in  Eng- 
land have  enjoyed  the  fair  portions  of  the  earth  which 
God  has  given  them  !  Let  not  Ephraim  en^'y  Judah,  nor 
Judah  vex  Ephraim.  Let  not  the  European  envy  the 
Hottentot,  nor  the  Hottentot  excite  the  malevolence  of  the 
colonist.  And  this  is  not  all :  the  valleys  are  under  culti- 
vation ;  the  eye  feasts  here  not  only  on  the  sublime  scenery 
of  the  mountain,  with  its  forests,  ravines,  and  cataracts, 
but  on  the  soft  undulating  surface  of  the  lower  grounds, 
and  the  large  portion  of  land  smiling  with  verdure.  The 
orchards,  well  stocked  with  the  peach,  nectarine,  apricot, 


156  INDUSTKY  OF  NATIVES. 

!VTi(i  npplo,  remind  one  of  portions  of  Herefordshire,  and 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  Malvern  hills.  At  the  time  of 
my  visit  the  corn  was  springing  up  luxuriantly  over  acre 
after  acre,  and  the  humble  cottages  of  the  natives  indicated 
the  improved  and  still  advancing  condition  of  the  people. 
All  this  spoke  volumes  in  favour  of  the  industrious  Hotten- 
tot, that  so  soon  after  the  late  Kaffir  war,  in  which  he  had 
suffered  so  severely,  he  had  returned  to  his  allotment, 
commenced  rebuilding  his  house,  ploughing  his  land,  and 
leading  out  the  water-courses.  These  natives  too  are  all 
dressed  in  European  clothing,  and  appear  far  more  com- 
fortable than  many  of  our  mechanics  or  agricultural  farmers 
in  England.  They  have  not  only  sheep  and  goats,  but 
their  teams  of  oxen,  horses,  and  wagons.  Prior  to  the 
war  they  had  about  three  thousand  draught  oxen  in  the 
settlement ;  poultry  and  pigs  abounded.  All  these  perished 
during  the  war,  and  the  people  are  only  just  now  again 
beginning  to  attend  to  these  matters. 

We  held  a  public  meeting  at  Eeadsdale,  and  also  ex- 
amined the  children  of  the  school.  They  evinced  a  highly 
respectable  acquaintance  with  Scripture  history.* 

The  Fingoes  here  are  proving  themselves  to  be  a  very 
industrious  body  of  people.  They  cultivate  the  land  mainly 
with  pickaxes  :  the  whole  family,  the  men,  women,  and 
children,  all  work,  all  help.  They  sow  principally  Indian 
corn.  They  cannot  purchase  land  in  this  settlement ;  but 
they  possess  great  quantities  of  cattle.     Very  many  of  them 

*  After  holding  the  meeting  and  examining  the  school,  we  went  to 
the  house  of  the  field  cornet.  AVe  had  taken  our  own  provisions 
with  us,  "  not  wishing  to  be  burdensome  to  any."  But  our  host  and 
hostess  had  provided  very  bountifully  for  our  reception,  and  they 
entertained  us  very  hospitably.  The  table  was  spread,  the  cloth 
laid,  and  everything  provided  that  was  needful  and  comfortable.  It 
seemed  to  me  a  new  chapter  in  Hottentotism,  and  to  many  would 
have  been  a  scene  perfectly  novel.  To  me  it  was  highly  gratifying. 
It  was  a  civilized,  intelligent,  kind,  and  Christian  native  family  ;  and 
I  said  in  my  heart,  "  Missions  are  not  in  vain,  and  these  people  are 
worthy  of  all  our  labours  to  improve  them." 


GEOLOGY.  157 

attend  the  ministry  of  the  Gospel,  and  are  members  of 
the  church.  These  offer  to  contribute  liberally  towards 
the  Missionary  Auxiliary.  The  Fingoes  connected  with 
one  only  of  our  stations  have  voluntarily  put  their  names 
down  to  the  amount  of  £15  per  annum. 

I  next  visited  the  location  called  Maasdorp.  The  scenery 
is  delightful.  The  place  is  extremely  productive  of  fruit, 
and  there  is  much  timber  felled  and  sawn.  The  people  have 
been  in  easy  and  comfortable  circumstances  ;  but  some  few 
of  them  are  said  to  be  the  victims  of  intemperance.  This 
is  the  only  location  in  the  settlement  having  that  bad  pre- 
eminence. Hendrik  Heyn,  a  well-informed  and  supei'ior 
man,  resides  here,  employing  all  his  influence  in  favour  of 
sound  morals  and  the  general  improvement  of  the  people. 
He  is  the  secretary  to  our  Society's  Auxiliary  in  the  Kat 
River. 

In  proceeding  through  these  several  locations,  I  was 
struck  with  the  extent  to  which  the  blue  lias  formation 
prevails  :  we  crossed  it  in  nearly  all  the  lower  slopes  of 
the  hills  down  to  the  stream.  It  rests  on  sandstone,  and 
is  also  covered  by  a  similar  formation.  The  streams  run 
over  horizontal  beds  of  sandstone  of  great  depth :  these 
in  some  places  terminate  abruptly,  and  the  water  then 
falls  some  forty  or  fifty  feet  in  perpendicular  descent, 
adding  not  a  little  to  the  beauty  and  variety  of  the  scenery. 
In  other  cases  the  water  runs  over  basaltic  dykes.  Im- 
mense quantities  of  whinstone  lie  about  in  all  directions, 
from  large  masses  or  boulders  to  small  fragments.  In  the 
blue  lias,  organic  remains  have  been  found,  I  understand, 
of  the  saurian  kind  and  the  tortoise. 

It  would  be  unnecessary  here  to  state  in  detail  my  visits 
to  all  the  several  locations  of  the  settlement.  I  must 
satisfy  myself  with  remarking,  that  I  went  to  them.  Beside 
the  places  already  mentioned  I  went  to  Buxton,  Lushing- 
ton,  Bruceton,  Willsdale,  Vanderkemp,  Upshaw,  and  Wil- 
berforce,=''=  examined  the  schools,  addressed   the  people, 

*  Mankazana  is  another  station,  but  wliich  I  only  saw  from  the 


158  MAN  IN  A  lion's  MOUTH. 

saw  tboir  actual  position,  their  houses,  gai'dens,  and  lands, 
their  occupations  and  general  indications  of  improvement. 
I  cannot  say  that  I  felt  everywhere  satisfied.  1  cannot 
say  that  I  think  the  people  have  evei'j'Avhere  done  all  they 
could  in  advancing  their  own  condition  and  that  of  their 
families.  But  I  certainly  felt  that  no  unprejudiced  man 
would  have  said,  "  The  Kat  Eiver  settlement  is  a  failure," 
as  IMr.  Biddulph  did  in  his  Report  to  Sir  Heniy  Pottinger. 
And  I  certainly  felt,  that  Sir  Harry  Smith,  the  present 
Governor,  said  only  what  did  credit  to  his  judgment  and 
honesty,  when,  in  reference  to  Mr.  Biddulphs  remarks, 
he  exclaimed,  "This  afailui'e!  then  the  whole  world  is  a 
failure — evei'ji.hing  is  a  failure  !" 

The  grand  thing  is,  that  the  peoiAe  require  equitable 
treatment  and  kind  encouragement.  They  have  suffered, 
as  already  intimated,  from  repeated  Kaffir  wars,  in  which 
they  have  been  called  to  the  defence  of  the  colony.  They 
have  suffered,  besides,  occasional  visitations  of  other 
scourges.      They    should   have    been    rewarded    by    the 

top  of  the  mountain  of  that  name.  One  of  the  chief  men  there  is 
Alie  Arends.  He  was  once  caught  by  a  lion,  and  his  head  was  actually 
between  the  jaws  of  the  enormous  monster.  He  prayed  that  God 
woiold  have  mercy  on  him  and  spare  him.  He  says,  even  if  he  had 
never  prayed  before,  he  did  then  most  earnestly.  His  life  was  spared, 
and  the  animal  let  go  his  terrific  hold,  and  left  him.  Izaac  Arends, 
schoolmaster  at  this  village,  is  the  son  of  Alie.  At  some  of  these 
out-stations,  it  became  almost  ludicrous  to  see  what  expedients 
Necessity,  the  mother  of  Invention,  had  adopted,  in  the  absence  of 
village  bells,  to  summon  the  people  together  for  public  worship.  In 
one  place  I  saw  an  "  old  saw"  suspended  by  a  cord,  emitting  its  gentle 
sound  as  struck  by  hammer  or  a  stone  ;  and  in  another  place, 
actually  a  frj-ing-pan  used  for  this  purpose,  for  which  certauily  it  was 
never  originally  nor  legitimately  intended.  I  love  the  %"illage  bells 
of  old  England,  and  our  "  bonnie  Christ  Church  beUs,"  and  I  detest 
the  monotonous,  barbarous  ding-dong  of  our  Sunday  morning  sum- 
mons. Could  not  the  latter  be  spared  and  shipped  for  South  Afi-ica  ? 
They  might  do  there.  If  not,  will  not  some  kind-hearted  Christian, 
some  man  that  has  "  music  in  his  soul,"  make  a  present  of  two  or 
three  small  bells  adapted  to  the  purpose  ? 


KAT  RIVER  NO  FAILURE.  159 

Government  for  their  services,  and  the  magistrates  placed 
over  them  should  have  been  such  as  would  insure  their 
respect  for  impartiality,  and  their  confidence  for  their 
spni^athy.  No  reason  should  be  given  them  to  complain 
of  neglect,  harsh  treatment,  and  ungenerous,  not  to  say 
unjust  measures,  on  the  part  of  their  rulers.  Were  all 
this  secured,  there  would  be  no  suspicions  of  disaffection, 
no  indications  of  disloyalty.  And  not  only  would  there  be 
no  ground  to  complain  of  disloyalty,  there  would  be  the 
strongest  gi'ounds  for  confidence  in  the  unshaken  allegi- 
ance of  this  people.  Our  claims  on  them  would  be  aug- 
mented, and  they  would  gratefully  respond  to  them. 
They  are  in  a  condition  to  be  led  onward.  They  are  ready 
to  make  eff'orts  to  assist  themselves.  I  feel  assured  that, 
if  only  peace  could  be  preserved,  and  the  seasons  should 
prove  tolerably  favourable,  so  that  the  people  might  reap 
the  fruit  of  their  labours,  they  would  improve  their  re- 
sources, and  would  cheerfully  employ  a  fair  proportion  of 
them  in  the  payment  of  teachers  for  their  children,  the 
erection  of  schools,  the  working  the  press,  and  all  that 
pertains  to  their  social  advancement. 

A  public  examination  of  the  schools  was  held  during  my 
visit.  About  three  hundred  children  were  present.  They 
met  in  an  open  space  of  ground.  The  school  from  each 
settlement  carried  a  flag,  having  some  appropriate  motto. 
After  singing  a  few  verses  of  an  English  hymn,  all  marched 
in  regular  order  into  the  chapel,  where  they  passed  through 
the  examination  in  a  very  creditable  manner.  Many 
children  were  absent  for  want  of  suitable  clothing.  It  has 
been  a  drawback  for  some  time  past,  that  the  salaries  of 
the  teachers  have  been  too  low  to  secure  efficiency.  Com- 
petent teachers  have  resigned,  and  their  places  have  been 
occupied  by  young  women,  who,  though  indef^itigable  and 
most  praiseworthy,  have  not  been  fully  equal  to  the  task 
assigned  them.  The  infant  and  day  schools  at  Philipton 
have  enjoyed  superior  advantages  under  two  of  Mr.  Head's 
dauofhters. 


1  CO  LETTER  TO  DEIHTTATION. 

Considering  the  great  difficulties  under  which  the  people 
genevidly  have  hiboured  since  the  last  war,  and  the  conse- 
quent disadvantages  of  the  children  in  relation  to  educa- 
tion, 1  should  pronounce  the  examination  satisfactory. 
But  at  the  same  time  I  must  add,  that  decided  and  vigor- 
ous steps  are  necessary  to  secure  improvement.  A  good 
normal  school  would  be  of  essential  service,  where,  by 
training  a  superior  class  of  teachers,  the  whole  settlement 
would  soon  share  the  benefit.  But  pecuniary  resources 
are  wanting  to  meet  the  expenses  incurred. 

There  is  also  a  printing  press  here,  which  was  presented 
by  the  friends  at  Sheffield  to  Andries  Stoffels,  for  the  use 
of  the  settlement ;  but  there  are  not  adequate  means  to 
provide  for  its  being  employed, — a  circumstance  deeply  to 
be  regretted.  The  people  themselves  were  most  anxious 
to  see  it  in  operation,  and  hoped  they  might  be  able  by 
economical  arrangements  to  defray  its  expenses.  The 
parents  would  purchase  books  for  their  children  in  the 
schools,  and  if  a  cheap  magazine  was  published,  it  would 
sell,  they  thought,  sufficiently  to  leave  some  profit  towards 
the  general  expenses  of  the  press.  The  Kaffir  war  has 
thrown  a  dark  cloud  over  all  these  brightening  prospects. 

The  opportunities  which  I  had  of  meeting  the  native 
members  of  the  auxiliary  committee,  gave  me  a  favour- 
able impression  of  the  intelligence  of  the  people.  It  may 
afford  some  illustration  of  this,  if  I  introduce  here  a 
translation  of  a  letter  put  into  my  hands  soon  after  I  had 
reached  the  settlement,  addressed  to  me  by  Hendrick 
Heyns,  as  secretary  to  the  Auxiliary : — 

"  Respected  Sir,  the  Deputation, — It  is  with  the  greatest  pleasure 
that  we  welcome  you  as  the  deputation  from  the  Parent  Society.  With 
your  character  as  a  friend  to  the  natives  of  this  country,  a  zealous  Mis- 
sionary in  Madagascar,  and  one  of  the  able  secretaries  of  the  Parent 
Society,  we  have  been  made  acquainted  by  our  teachers.  The  Parent 
Society  has  been  known  to  us  for  fifty  years,  and  its  history  is  bound 
up  with  the  introduction  of  Christianity,  of  civilization  and  freedom 
among  the  Hottentot  natives.  And  in  the  words  of  Mr.  Fairbairn 
we  can  say,  that  the  history  of  the  Missionary  Society  is  the  liistory  of 


DIAGRAMS.  161 

Christianity,  ci^-ilization,  and  freedom  among  the  native  tribes  of  this 
country.  We  heartily  -welcome  you  as  the  deputation  of  the  Parent 
Society,  and  shall  -with  pleasure  hear  you  state  the  objects  of  your 
visit,  and  we  hope  to  enter  cordially  into  all  yoiu-  plans.  You  ■will 
have  seen,  sii",  what,  before  the  last  war,  it  was  our  purpose  to  do  on 
behalf  of  the  Society,  and  although  at  present  we  have  oiu'  difficulties, 
we  hope,  in  a  short  time,  to  take  oiu-  position  agam  among  the 
chiu-ches  of  South  Africa. 

"  The  following  are  the  prmcipal  points  on  which  the  liberty  and 
progress  of  the  coloured  people  depend  : — 

"  1.  The  support  of  their  own  teachers. 

"2.  The  extension  of  the  gospel  among  the  heathen. 

"3.  The  use  of  the  '  press.'  On  this  point  we  wish  to  have  your 
advice.  '  The  land  is  barbarous  in  which  there  is  no  press.'  And  it 
is  a  painful  truth  that  there  is  not  a  paper  or  magazine  for  the  natives. 
The  mass  of  the  people  live  in  ignorance,  and  we  hope  that  you,  sLr, 
will  wake  \ip  our  teachers  on  tliis  point.  An  vmeducated  people  is 
weak  and  dark  m  all  respects.  As  to  the  use  of  the  press,  we  -wish 
only  for  your  counsel,  and  we  will  attend  to  the  matter  of  expense. 

"  4.  Good  schools  for  the  education  of  oiu'  cliildren. 

"  5.  The  political  affairs  of  the  land. 

"  The  approaching  African  Parliament,  which,  while  it  will  afford 
new  and  exalted  privileges  to  the  Hottentots  and  other  classes,  will 
also  introduce  new  difficidties,  because  it  will  give  new  power  to  the 
colonists,  and  will  diminish,  in  that  proportion,  the  ci\'il  power  of 
England. 

"  It  was  highly  needful  that  a  deputation  should  be  sent  oxit.  It 
was  our  intention,  sir,  to  have  met  you  on.  horseback.  Tlie  women 
and  children,  also,  would  have  met  you  on  foot,  but  the  weather 
hindered  it.  Many  of  the  men,  however,  went  to  the  Kat  Berg  on 
Wednesday.  Again,  we  say  to  you,  sir,  Welcome  to  the  settlement. 
In  the  name  of  the  Missionary  Committee  and  the  church. 

"H.  HEYN." 

On  all  these  points  I  met  the  members  of  the  Com- 
mittee, and  found  them  prepared  to  discuss  the  matters 
like  men  of  business, — thoughtful,  intelligent,  and  earnest. 
They  adverted  also  to  the  question  of  diagrams  of  the 
lands  which  they  occupy,  and  whicli,  though  repeatedly 
promised,  they  have  never  received  from  the  Government, 
and  without  which  they  do  not  feel  tliey  liave  any  per- 
manent security  of  the  property  on  which  they  are  located, 

M 


16'-2  "  ClIUMIK,"  SCOTCH  MISSION LANDSCAPE. 

or  suflieient  inducement  to  improve  it  as  they  else  would. 
I  intinuited  to  them  my  fears  that,  supposing  they  had 
the  diagrams,  and  a  power  of  disposing  of  the  lands, 
they  might  be  tempted  to  part  with  them  for  some  seem- 
ing temporary  ad\  autage ;  that  unprincipled  colonists 
might  ofler  them  such  advantage,  and  thus  ultimately  the 
settlement  might  be  lost  to  the  Hottentots,  and  the 
original  design  of  the  Government  completely  frustrated. 
They  admitted  there  was  force  in  this,  but  thought  pro- 
vision could  be  introduced  that  would  prevent  the  evil 
deprecated,  and  that  at  any  rate  it  was  worth  while  to 
obtain  the  diagrams,  even  with  the  risk  of  some  danger 
and  cost. 

^Vl^le  at  Lushington  I  rode  over  to  the  Mission  station  at 
Chumie,  under  the  Scotch  brethren  of  the  United  Presby- 
terian Church,  and  where  I  hoped  to  meet  my  old  friend, 
i\Ir.  Niven.  Other  engagements  had,  however,  rendered 
it  impossible  for  him  to  be  there.  I  spent  a  short  time 
with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gumming,  and  the  widow,  Mrs.  Chal- 
mers, and  her  large  family. 

From  the  summit  of  Mankazana  Hill,  the  prospect  is 
magnificent.  It  would  be  difficult  to  find  a  spot  here  in 
which  nature  has  not  profusely  lavished  her  beautiful 
treasures.  All  the  elements  of  grandeur  and  loveliness 
are  combined.  No  artist  could  desire  finer  landscapes ; — 
but  who  can  paint  like  nature  ?  Here  are  bold  and  lofty 
mountains,  ranges  of  hills  of  every  form,  colours  of  all 
tints,  deep  ravines  and  sequestered  glens,  bright  and 
glittering  surfaces,  dark  shadows,  luxuriant  vales,  broken 
precipices,  jagged  prominences,  quiet  nooks,  rivulets  and 
cascades,  trees  graceful  and  magnificent,  the  bright  mi- 
mosa and  the  sombre  yew,  an  intensely  clear  atmosphere, 
splendid  azm-e  skies,  and  nights  of  overwhelming  glory. 
"  O  Lord,  our  Lord,  how  excellent  is  thy  name  in  all  the 
earth!"  "Wlio  could  gaze  unmoved  on  such  scenes?  Wlio 
would  not  exclaim,  with  thrilling  ecstasy,  "The  heavens  are 
teUing  the  glory  of  God;"  "the  earth,  0  Lord,  is  full  of  thv 


CHILDREN — OEBINATION  AT  TIDMANl'ON.  163 

riches!"  When  the  first  week  m  the  history  of  our 
planet  was  closing,  the  Creator  "beheld  all  that  he  had 
made,  and,  behold,  it  was  very  good."     It  remains  so  still. 

During  my  visit  to  Blinkwater,  subsequently  called 
Tidmanton,  I  was  gi-eatly  delighted  with  the  remarkably 
healthy  appearance  of  the  children  of  that  settlement  and 
its  neighbourhood.  I  think  about  two  hundred  came  to 
meet  me,  with  their  teachers,  and  many  of  their  parents. 
I  was  never  so  struck  with  such  a  collection  of  fine,  noble, 
vigorous,  intelligent,  happy  countenances.  The  children 
ranged  from  six  or  seven  years  of  age,  up  to  about  four- 
teen or  fifteen.  For  the  most  part  they  were  Gona  and 
Fingo  children,  belonging  to  Tidmanton  ;  the  others  were 
Kafiirs,  belonging  to  parents  connected  with  Hermanus. 

The  members  of  the  church  and  congregation  at  Tid- 
manton were  very  desirous  of  having  their  native  teacher, 
Mr.  Arie  Van  Rooyen,  ordained  over  them,  as  co-pastor  with 
the  Rev.  J.  Read,  jun.,  who  had  for  a  long  time  sustained 
the  office  of  pastor  among  them,  as  well  as  co-j)astor  with 
his  father  at  Philipton.  Such  an  arrangement,  I  knew, 
was  in  perfect  harmony  with  the  sentiments  and  wishes  of 
the  Directors  of  our  Society ;  and,  having  received  the 
highest  testimonials  in  favour  of  Mr.  Van  Rooyen,  I  felt 
happy  in  facilitating  the  measure  so  far  as  was  in  my 
power.  The  people  agreed  to  raise  the  salaiy  requisite 
for  his  support.  A  day  was  accordingly  appointed  for  the 
service.  A  large  congregation  attended.  Everything  was 
conducted  in  a  manner  befitting  such  an  occasion,  and  I 
have  not  found  any  reason  for  entertaining  the  remotest 
misgiving  as  to  the  propriety  of  the  step.  Our  operations 
at  Tidmanton  are,  it  is  true,  mournfully  interrupted  at 
present.  This  arises,  not  in  any  degree  from  these 
arrangements,  but  from  the  course  of  the  Kaffir  war,  one 
of  the  direst  calamities  that  could  have  overtaken  the 
people. 

It  was  to  my  mind  a  very  interesting  part  of  this  sei-vice, 
when,    en    the   members    of    the  church  being  asked  to 


1(U  TESTIMONIAT.  OF  ELDERS  AND  DEACONS. 

sij^iufy  their  choice  of  Mr.  Van  Rooyen  to  be  one  of  their 
pastors,  one  of  their  number  present  rose  and  read,  with 
an  audible  voice  and  suitable  expression,  a  paper,  of  which 
the  following  is  a  translation  (the  original  of  which  now 
lies  before  me  in  a  good  and  plain  hand) : — 

"Tidmatitmi,  Srd  Oct.,  1839. 
"  Having  had  e'S'idencc  for  many  years  of  the  high  measure  of  piety, 
the  unceasing  zeal,  and  the  aptness  to  teach,  of  our  brother  Arie 
Van  Rooyen,  who  for  many  years,  has  ministered  as  an  elder  and 
unordained  preacher  of  the  Word,  and  has  been  the  means  of  calling 
many  sinners  to  the  Lord,  and  of  establishuig  believers  on  their  most 
holy  faith,  and  that  we  therein  have  e-vidence  that  '  God  is  no 
respecter  of  persons,'  and  as  we  njiderstand  from  the  Word  of  God 
that  each  chiirch  shall  act  for  itself,  and  may  choose  its  o'wn  teachers, 
we  have  unanimously  resolved  to  in^-ite,  as  a  second  pastor,  our  be- 
loved brother  Arie  Van  Rooyen,  and  we  desii-e  that  he  may  now 
be  ordained  as  such,  by  the  assembled  pastors,  in  the  name  of  the 
i;hurch. 

(Signed)  "  C.  Magekman,  Elder. 

"  Klaas  Naeka, 
"  Hans  Naeka, 
"  Christian  Van  Staade, 

"  H.  JONKEE, 

"  Base  Barze, 

*'  Hans  Zeilvoort, 


Deaco7is." 


I  should  not  have  deemed  it  necessaiy  to  introduce  any- 
thing further  in  relation  to  these  arrangements  with  Mr. 
Van  Rooyen,  at  Tidmanton,  but  for  the  present  asj^ect  of 
affairs  among  the  Kat  River  people.  I  am  anxious  to 
afford  all  the  illustrations  which  I  can  of  their  mental 
and  moral  condition,  and  for  this  pui-pose  I  place  before 
my  readers  an  additional  document,  to  which  I  attach 
some  value,  and  I  do  so  in  this  instance,  and  in  other 
portions  of  this  volume,  that  the  friends  of  the  native 
tribes  of  South  Africa  may  find  fresh  evidence  that  the 
labours  of  their  INIissionaries  have  not  been  uselessly 
employed,  but  that  the  people  have  profited,  and  are  com- 


LETTER  FBOM  VAN  EOOYEN.  1C5 

petent  to  take  their  share  in  the  movements  of  a  great  and 
well-regulated  community. 

The  following  is  the  copy  of  the  letter  which  I  received 
from  Mr.  Van  Eooyen,  on  my  communicating  to  him  the 
wish  that  he  should  he  ordained  as  a  pastor  at  Tidmanton. 
The  translation  from  the  original  Dutch  was  made  by  one 
of  the  people  on  the  spot : — 

"Blinktcafer,  Sept.  Uth,  1849. 

"Rev.  and  respected  Sir, — AVithdeep  and  affectionate  feeling  have 
I  received  your  proposal,  and  sensible  of  my  unworthiness,  I  can 
say  ■w'itli  David,  '  "WTiat  am  I,  or  what  is  my  father's  house,'  that  I 
should  be  called  to  such  an  office?  Moses,  Isaiah,  Jeremiah,  and  Paul, 
all  felt  their  imworthiness  to  be  employed  in  the  service  of  God,  but 
they  nevertheless  took  duties  upon  themselves  for  his  name,  honour, 
and  usefulness  in  liis  cause. 

"Although  I  find  myself  very  tm qualified  for  a  work  of  such 
greatness  and  responsibility,  and  although  I  possess  but  little  know- 
ledge, little  faith,  and  no  eloquence,  yet  I  cannot  deny  that  I  have 
long  felt  a  strong  desire  to  devote  myself  entirely,  with  heart  and 
soul,  with  bodily  and  mental  powers,  to  the  ser-\ice  of  God.  I  derived 
encouragement  from  the  diversity  and  manner  in  which  the  work  is 
divided,  that  some  place  will  be  found  for  me  :  for  Paul  speaks  of 
'  helps,'  in  1  Cor.  xii.  28.  Perhaps  I  might  be  employed  as  one  of 
them,  and  although  ministers  will  also  shine  like  stars,  they  must 
vary  in  qualifications.  1  Cor.  xv.  41.  '  For  one  star  difFereth 
from  another  star  in  glory,'  and  in  large  houses,  there  are  not  golden 
and  silver  vessels  alone.  The  proposal  made  by  yom-self,  Mr.  Pwead,  as 
well  as  other  ministers  and  the  congregations  of  Philipton  and  Blink- 
water,  I  accept  of  with  humility  and  with  a  sense  of  my  numerous 
imperfections,  leaning  on  that  God  who  has  said  to  Closes,  '  I  shall 
certainly  be  with  you,  and  will  be  Avith  thy  mouth,  and  teach  thee 
what  thou  shalt  say.'  And  who  spoke  to  Jeremiah  in  his  first  chapter, 
verses  6,  8,  9,  and  17,  18,  19,  and  to  Paul,  saying,  'My  grace  is 
sufficient  for  thee,  and  my  strength  shall  be  made  perfect  in  thy 
weakness.' 

"  I  am  satisfied  as  to  what  Mr.  Head  told  me  about  the  money.  I 
pray  for  a  greater  measure  of  piety,  holiness,  knowledge,  humility, 
self-denial,  diligence  and  perseverance  in  the  ways  of  God,  and  that 
the  ordination  may  not  excite  pride  or  haughtiness  within  me,  but 
tend  to  the  glory  of  God,  the  spread  of  Clirist's  kingdom,  the  edifica- 
tion of  the  church,  and  the  conversion  of  souls. 


1  00  LETTKIl  FROM  VAN  ROOYFN. 

"  I  shall  speak  to  yoii  personally,  when  I  shall  have  the  pleasure 
of  meeting  you  here. 

"  I  remain, 

"  Affectionately  and  respectfully, 
"  Yours, 
(Signed)         "  ARIE  VAN  ROOYEN. 

"PS.  I  think  it  •would  be  better,  if  I  should  be  ordained  and 
viewed  for  the  present  in  the  relation  of  Assistant  Missionary,  or,  as 
it  is  called  in  English,  '  Co-pastor ; '  as  it  may  be  advantageous  to 
me  in  this  great  and  responsible  spliere,  agreeable  to  the  feelings  of 
the  people  (congregation),  and  favourable  to  the  presen-ation  of  the 
unity  which  exists  between  the  congregations  of  Philipton  and 
Tidmanton," 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

STRIKE,  BUT  HEAR MEMORIAL    TO  SIR  H.  SMITH HOTTENTOTS  AT  RUX- 

TON LETTER   FROM    COLONIAL  SECRETARY LETTER  AS  TO   BUXTON 

HOTTENTOTS EXPULSION    OF    THE    PEOPLE EXPULSION    OF    OONA 

HOTTENTOTS POLICE    REPORT    OF    EXPULSIONS  THE    GOVERNOR'S 

COMMENDATION — LETTER  FROM  MR.  C.  BROWNLEE — -LETTER  FROM 
THE  GOVERNOR LETTER  FROM  BOTHA  TO  THE  GOVERNOR SUFFER- 
INGS OF  THE  GONA  HOTTENTOTS EOTHa's  LETTER  OF  EXPOSTULA- 
TION  SUMMARY    OF    THE    CASE CATTLE    IMPOUNDED — ^IRRITATION 

OF  THE    PEOPLE — "  WE  ARE    TIRED  OF  IRRITATIONS"  —  EXCITEMENT 

AT    KAT    RIVER EXCESSIVE    EXACTIONS CAUSES    OF    IRRITATION 

people's  appeal  for  INVESTIGATION LETTER  FROM  THE  GOVERN- 
MENT— KAT  RIVER  HOTTENTOTS. 

It  is  with  considerable  reluctance  that  I  enter  on  the 
materials  of  this  chapter.  I  could  wish  that  the  sources 
of  irritation  they  contain  were  buried  in  oblivion.  It  is  an 
ungracious  task  to  expose  the  faults  of  men  in  office,  and 
especially  after  sojne  reparation  has  been  made  for  the  evils 
they  have  done.  But  when  I  see  the  ungenerous  and  even 
cruel  attempts  that  are  made  in  some  portions  of  the 
colony,  to  crush  the  Hottentots,  and  some  other  coloured 
races,  and  to  awaken  the  public  sentiment  and  the  hostility 
of  the  Government  against  Missionary  Institutions  gene- 
rally, and  those  among  the  Hottentots  in  particular,  and 
I  may  add,  those  of  our  Society  above  all, — I  deem  it  a 
sacred  duty  to  state  certain  facts,  which,  although  they  may 
not  and  cannot  justify  the  rash  steps  which  some  mis- 
guided natives  have  recently  adopted,  will  be  deliberately 
weighed  by  all  cool  and  impartial  minds — will  be  looked 
at  as  extenuating  circumstances — will  be  held  to  account 
for  and  excuse  much   dissatisfaction  on   the  part  of  the 


108  STItlKE,  BUT  IIF.AH. 

natives;  and  although  vot  justifying  their  disloyalty  and 
rebellion,  will  largely  explain  the  reasons  of  those  offences, 
and  demand.  I  presume  to  think,  as  searching  and  impar- 
tial an  inquiry  into  the  conduct  of  those,  however  high  in 
office,  who  have  caused  this  discontent  and  disloyalty,  by 
unwise  or  illegal  measures,  as  into  the  conduct  of  men 
who  have  been  goaded  into  unjustifiable  extremes.  I  see 
no  justice  in  executing  the  rebel,  without  asking  what 
uiade  him  a  rebel ;  no  honour  in  stifling  by  superior  force 
the  earnest  and  even  intemperate  voice  of  men,  who  say 
they  are  goaded  and  wronged,  without  calmly  asking.  Is 
there  truth  in  their  allegations  ?  Have  they  ground  for 
their  remonstrance  ?  In  the  absence  of  such  inquiry, 
blameworthy  parties  may  be  screened,  the  really  ill-advised 
may  be  commended,  and  the  innocent  may  be  the  victims. 

The  first  case  of  complaint  that  came  under  my  notice 
personally,  during  my  visit  at  the  Kat  Eiver,  occurred  at 
the  village  of  Buxton.  I  admit  here  at  once,  before  I  de- 
scribe it,  that  having  brought  it  under  the  notice  of  his 
Excellency  Sir  Harry  Smith,  the  Governor,  he  ordered  an 
investigation  of  the  matter,  with  a  promptness  that  re 
fleeted  honour  on  his  judgment  and  benevolence,  and  in 
consequence  of  that  investigation,  the  parties  wronged 
received  some  reparation.  I  do  not,  therefore,  repeat  the 
case  here  with  a  particle  of  angry  or  malignant  feeling 
toward  Sir  Harry  Smith,  nor  w^ould  I  have  alluded  to  the 
case  again,  but  for  the  present  outcry  against  the  Hotten- 
tots, the  severe  measures  being  dealt  out  to  them,  and  the 
necessity  of  stating,  in  their  vindication,  or  for  the  extenu- 
ation of  their  offence,  all  that  which  truth  admits. 

The  case  was  urged  on  my  attention  by  Gona  Hot- 
tentots themselves,  the  parties  aggrieved.  I  heard  atten- 
tively their  complaints ;  I  endeavoured  to  sift  the  evidence 
and  ascertain  the  facts,  to  the  best  of  my  ability,  and  I 
think  I  cannot  do  better  than  state  them  in  the  very  terms 
in  which  I  brouglit  them  under  the  notice  of  the  Governor, 
as  soon  as  I  possibly  could  after  I  left  the  Kat  River. 


MEMOFJAL  TO  SIR  H.  SMITH.  169 

[Copy.] 

"  Somerset,  5th  Oct.,  1849. 
"  To  His  Excellency  Sir  Harry  Smith,  Bart., 
"  Governor,  &c.  &c.  &c. 
"  The  memorial  of  Rev.  J.  J.  Freeman,  one  of  the  Secretaries  of 
the  London  Missionary  Society,  and  at  present  Deputation  from  that 
Society  to  its  Missions  m  South  Africa,  humbly  sheAveth, 

"  That,  while  your  Memorialist  has  anxiously  wished  not  to  inter- 
fere in  matters  that  might  seem  out  of  his  province,  or  not  duectly 
connected  with  the  objects  of  lus  mission,  some  cases  of  such  flagrant 
injustice,  cruelty,  and  opijression  have  forced  themselves  on  his  observ- 
ation that  he  can  no  longer  refrain  from  soliciting  yoiu"  Excellency's 
attention  to  them,  persuaded  that,  were  they  known,  they  would  be 
checked,  and  that,  if  left  unchecked,  they  will  so  multiply  that  the 
A\hole  of  the  Native  Border  Tribes  will  be  provoked  into  a  state  of 
dangerous  exasj^eration.*  Memorialist  invites  yoru-  Excellency's 
attention  to  a  case  which  has  just  occiu'red  at  Buxton,  in  the  Kat 
River  settlement,  under  the  magistracy  of  Mr.  Bowker.  It  is  briefly 
this  : — About  one  hundred  head  of  cattle,  belonging  to  the  people 
here,  trespassed  on  some  oorn  lands, — the  lands  being  uninclosed. 
The  damage  done  Avas  assessed  at  Qd.  per  head  of  cattle,  say  £2  10*. 
The  people  paid  the  amoimt  in  cattle  (a  cow  in  calf,  and  two  young 
oxen  fit  for  inspanning),f  and  were  told  they  might  drive  home  the 
cattle.  While  doing  so,  the  cattle  were  all  seized  and  impounded, 
under  pretence  that  they  had  not  paid  sufficient  fine  for  damages  ;  and 
beuig  brought  to  court,  a  false  charge  was  made  that  the  people  had 
attempted  to  prevent  the  cattle  being  seized.  They  were  then  fined 
eight  head  of  cattle  for  the  damages,  and  £50  under  this  false  charge, 
being  £  1 0  for  each  of  five  men.  Two  of  the  men  having  no  cattle,  were 
imprisoned,  and  are  now  workuag  in  u-ons  as  felons,  and  thirty  head 
of  cattle  have  been  taken  and  sold  to  pay  the  £30  penalty  demanded 
of  the  other  three  men. 

"  Your  Memorialist  is  certain  that  the  charge  of  rescue  or  resist- 
ance on  the  part  of  the  peoj^le  is  false,  vexatious,  and  oppressive." 

Having  made  this  communication  to  his  Excellency, 
affecting  the  proceedings  of  the  magistrate,  I  thought  it 

*  I  wish  to  invite  the  attention  of  my  reader  to  this  remark,  be- 
cause it  shows  what  impression  was  made  on  my  mind  at  the  moment, 
and  on  the  very  spot,  and  that  I  felt  this  danger  so  vividly,  that  I  did 
not  hesitate  to  state  it  to  the  Governor. 

t  i.  e.,  yoking  in. 


170  HOTTENTOTS  AT  BUXTON. 

only  duo  to  jMr.  Bowkcr,  to  inform  him  candidly  that  1 
was  doing  so,  by  the  following  note  : — 

[Copy.] 

"  Somei-sef,  Oct.  \Oth,  1849. 
"  To  J.  11.  Bo-\vker,  Esq. 
"  SiK, — 
"  The  case  of  the  people  at  Buxton,  whose  cattle  have  been  seized 
and  sold,  and  on  whom  heavy  fines  have  been  imposed,  under  false 
charges,  appears  to  me,  after  investigation,  so  thoroughly  to  require 
re^-ision,  that  I  have  felt  it  my  duty  to  bring  it  under  the  notice  of 
his  Excellency  the  Governor,  and  as  I  am  doing  so,  it  seems  but  fair 
also  to  convey  to  you  this  early  intimation  of  it. 
"  I  am,  Sir, 

"  Your  most  obedient  servant, 

"J.  J.  FREEMAN." 

Mr.  Bowker  politely  acknowledged  the  receipt  of  my 
note,  and  his  Excellency  officially  acknowledged  the  re- 
ceipt of  my  Memorial. 

The  next  step  taken  in  the  case  was  adopted  by  the 
complainants  themselves,  who  addressed  a  letter  to  Sir 
John  Wylde,  of  the  Supreme  Court,  requesting  him  at  the 
ensuing  Circuit  to  look  into  the  case,  and  revise  the  de- 
cision of  the  magistrate.  The  Chief  Justice  accordingly 
directed  his  attention  to  it,  and  questioned  the  magistrate 
as  to  these  proceedings,  and  took  the  case  with  him  for 
further  consideration. 

His  Excellency  then  appointed  a  special  commission  of 
inquiry,  and  the  result  of  the  investigation  vs'ill  be  found 
in  the  following  letter,  which  was  addressed  to  me  by 
desire  of  the  Governor,  from  the  Colonial  Secretary,  in 
reply  to  an  inquiry  from  me,  in  reference  to  my  memorial, 
on  my  return  to  Cape  Town,  in  May,  1850. 

[Copy.] 
"  Colonial  Office,  Cape  Toicn,  Isf  June,  18-50. 
"  Sir,— 
"  I  am  directed  by  His  Excellency  the   Governor,  now  to  com- 
municate to  you  the  result  of  the  investigations  which  have  been 
made  into  the  subject  of  yoiir  Memorial  of  the  6th  of  October  last,  in 


LETTER  FROM  COLONIAL  SECRETARY.  171 

which  you  complain  of  an  alleged  overstretch  of  power  exercised  by 
the  resident  magistrate  of  Stockenstrom  against  some  natives  of  the 
Kat  River  settlement. 

"  I  am  to  acquaint  yoii  that,  upon  a  very  fidl  and  carefid  investiga- 
tion on  the  spot,  by  Mr.  "Wicnand,  clerk  of  the  peace,  a  very  able 
officer  of  the  Government,  and  assisted  by  the  advice  of  the  Attorney 
General,  the  follomng  cu'cumstances  have  been  elicited  : — 

"  That  the  cattle  of  the  Gonas  (who  are  the  parties  on  whose  behalf 
you  have  memorialized  His  Excellency)  had  undoubtedly  trespassed 
upon  the  lands  of  the  Hottentots ;  that  on  the  trial  before  ^Ir.  Bowker 
the  very  material  question  as  to  whether  amends  (which  both  parties 
agreed  had  been  offered)  were  accepted  by  the  Hottentots  or  not,  was 
not  fully  before  him,  while  on  the  subsequent  evidence  taken  by  Mr. 
Wienand  the  parties  were  distinctly  at  issue  on  this  very  point ;  and 
it  was  asserted  by  the  one  and  denied  by  the  other,  that  Willem 
Hans  had  agreed  to  and  accepted  the  amends  tendered  before  he 
called  on  the  separate  owners  to  single  out  their  own  cattle.  The 
contradiction  necessarily  leaves  the  matter  in  doubt.* 

"  Whether  a  rescue  was  or  was  not  committed  caimot  therefore 
even  now,  under  the  subsequent  investigation,  be  resolved ;  and  it  is 
to  be  remembered  that,  from  the  ignorance  of  the  Gonas  and  the 
duplicity  of  the  Hottentots,  the  negotiation  which  took  place  as  to 
amends  was  altogether  concealed  at  the  fii'st  trial  before  Mr.  Bowker. 

"  With  regard  to  the  legal  consequences  of  the  trespass  itself,  the 
principle  of  the  law  of  the  colony  being,  not  that  corn  farmers  must 
inclose  their  grounds,  but  that  cattle  fai-mers  must  herd  their  cattle, 
— the  fact  that  the  lands  of  the  Hottentots  were  uninclosed  does  not 
affect  the  liability  of  the  Gonas  for  the  trespass.  Consequently  the 
Hottentots  had  a  legal  right  to  impound  the  cattle  trespassing,  which 
right  they  were  under  no  obligation  to  forego.  Neither  by  the  settled 
law  of  the  Supreme  Coiu-t,  does  the  actual  amount  of  damage  done, 
whether  more  or  less,  affect  the  right  to  impound  as  many  cattle  as 
were  trespassing  however  the  value  of  such  cattle  might  exceed  the 
amount  of  damage.  Nor  would  any  tender  of  amends,  however  ample, 
by  the  Gonas  to  the  Hottentots,  if  not  finally  accepted  by  the  latter 
— nor  the  leaving  of  any  number  of  cattle  to  cover  the  damage,  justify 
the  Gonas  in  driving  off  the  cattle  detained,  without  the  consent  of 

*  I  think  if  Mr.  Bowker  had  carefully  sifted  the  evidence,  and 
cross-examined  the  witnesses  when  the  case  was  brought  before  him, 
he  would  have  found  that  the  Hottentots  had  accepted  the  amends 
tendered.  At  any  rate,  the  accused  should  have  had  the  benefit  of 
the  "  doubt"  in  the  matter. 


173  LtTTKR  AS  TO  BUXTON  HOTTENTOTS. 

the  Hottentots.  To  drive  any  of  such  cattle  away  ■srithout  consent, 
even  in  ignorance  of  the  law,  would  be  in  law  equally  a  rescue.  On 
the  other  hand,  if  amends  were  once  finally  accepted  by  the  Hotten- 
tots, and  the  cattle  seized  once  released,  no  change  of  mind  could 
justify  them  m  retaking  the  cattle.* 

"  His  Excellency  cannot  but  however  impute  to  Mr.  Bowker  an 
undue  severity  in  the  sentence  he  pronounced  on  the  Gonas,  for 
what  if  strictly  and  in  law  was,  bj-  the  evidence  before  him,  a  rescue, 
was  yet  committed  in  ignorance  and  without  Aiolence,  and  is  of 
opinion  that  the  fines  of  £10  each  on  three  of  the  parties,  and  the  im- 
prisonment for  two  months  with  hai'd  labour  of  the  other  two,  were 
clearly  excessive. 

"  It  appeai-s,  however,  that  Mr.  Bowker  erred  in  this  respect,  not 
from  severity  of  disposition,  but  from  a  mistaken  apprehension  that, 
under  the  Pound  Ordinance,  he  had  no  discretion  as  to  the  sentence. 
This  mitigation  involves  the  existence  of  a  carelessness  on  the  part  of 
a  magistrate  in  not  ascertaining  precisely  the  bearing  of  his  penal 
jurisdiction,  for  which  ^Ir.  Bowker  cannot  be  excused  by  His  Excel- 
lency. 

"His  Excellency  has  been  pleased  to  decide  that  the  fines  of  £10 
each,  IcAied  upon  Gobi,  Baartman,  and  Sjjelman,  be  retiirned  to  them ; 
and  has  caused  Mr.  Bowker  to  be  instructed  to  that  eifect :  and  as  it 
appears  further  that  the  levy  of  such  fijies  by  way  of  wan-ant  of  dis- 
tress was  irregidar  and  illegal,  Mr.  Bowker  has  been  also  desired  to 
pay  from  his  ow^l  funds  the  sum  of  £1  19s.  6rf.,  charged  as  expenses 
of  sale  by  the  messenger  of  the  coui-t. 

"  As  there  is  no  clear  proof  that  the  impounding  of  the  cattle  was 
illegal.  His  Excellency  cannot  require  the  refunding  of  the  principal 
pound-fees:  \\z.,  mileage  18s.  ;  damage  £2  10s.  ;  reception-fee  £2  9s. 
— in  all,  £5  17s. ;  but  inasmuch  as  certain  legal  regulations  were  not 
complied  with,  and  the  cattle  appear  not  to  have  been  actually  herded, 
but  released  on  security.  His  Excellency  has  dii'ected  that  the  magis- 
trate shall  call  for  the  restoration  of  the  Field-cornet's  fee  of  7s.  Qd. 
and  the  charge  of  £1  16s.  9rf.  for  herding.  These  several  sums  of 
£1  17s.  66?.,  7s.  Qd.,  and  £1  16s.  Ot?.,  amounting  to  £4  Is.  M.,  will, 
therefore,  be  divided  amongst  the  three  Gonas  who  owned  the  cattle. 

"  His  Excellency  regrets  that  it  is  not  in  his  power,  or  -vAithin  the 

*  "With  regard  to  the  lands  of  the  Hottentots  being  uninclosed, 
although  in  point  of  law  it  may  not  affect  the  liabilitj'  of  pailies  for  a 
trespass,  yet  I  have  understood  it  has  been  the  practice  of  the  Colony 
to  take  it  into  consideration,  and  frequently  to  mitigate  the  damages  to 
the  amount  of  one-half,  where  the  lands  have  not  been  inclosed. 


HOTTENTOTS  AT  BUXTON.  173 

functions  of  Government,  to  proyide  any  further  recompense  or  com- 
pensation to  the  parties  aggrieved,  although  the  Executive  is  con- 
vinced of  the  hardship  of  the  case,  and  regrets  the  imprisonment  to 
which  two  of  them  have  been  subjected. 

"  Their  remedy,  if  any,  must  be  sought  in  law, — for  the  Govern- 
ment, when  it  has  restored  the  fines  it  had  receiA'ed  in  money,  and 
has  also  directed  its  officers  to  refund  what  they  had  received  as  fees, 
cannot  do  more,  nor  attempt  to  satisfy  the  i)arties  in  respect  of  punish- 
ment wrongfully  undergone  by  reason  of  undue  severity  on  the  part 
of  a  magistrate  or  judge,  or,  as  has  sometimes  happened,  by  the  mis- 
finding  of  a  jury. 

"I  am  to  acquaint  you  that  His  Excellency  has  caused  Mr. 
Bowker  to  be  distinctly  apprized  of  the  serious  errors  of  judgment  he 
has  committed,  and  very  seriously  cautioned  for  the  future,  as  well  as 
severely  reprimanded  in  respect  of  the  case  now  in  question. 

"  His  Excellency  has  also  strongly  recommended  Mr.  Bowker  tf) 
endeaAour  to  render  amends  to  the  parties  who  suffered  the  imprison- 
ment.* 

"  I  have  the  honour  to  be.  Sir, 

"  Your  most  obedient  servant, 

"JOHN  MONTAGU." 

In  acknowledging  the  foregoing  letter  from  the  Governor 
I  wrote  as  under: — 

[Copy.] 

"  Cape  Town,  8th  June,  1850. 
"  To  His  Excellency  Sir  H.  Smith, 
"Governor,  &c.  &c.  &c. 
"  Sir, — 
"  I  beg  to  acknowledge  receipt  of  reply  (in  letter  from  Mr.  Montagu, 
date  1st  June)  to  my  Memorial  to  your  Excellency  on  the  subject  of 
the  Government  Hottentots  of  Buxton,  Kat  River. 

"  I  beg,  also,  to  thank  yoiu-  Excellency  for  having  so  promptly 
instituted  a  Commission  of  Inquiiy  into  the  case  of  which  I  had  made 
complaint. 

"  I  have  no  wish  to  press  the  case  any  further,  as  your  Excellency 
has  already  so  justly  censured  the  proceedings  of  the  magistrate.  My 
principal  aim  was  to  assist  in  preventing  the  recurrence  of  such  harsh 
treatment  of  the  natives  in  future.     I  confess  I  cannot  quite  acquit 

*  With  this  equitable  recommendation  of  the  Governor,  the  magis- 
trate has  never,  I  am  sorry  to  say,  had  either  the  justice  or  the 
humanity  to  comply. 


17  1  KXI'ILSION  OF  Til K   I'EOrLK. 

tlie  muj^istratc,  Mr.  Bowkcr,  of  severity  of  disposition  towards  tliciii. 
Were  this  the  oiUy  case  that  had  oceuiTed  of  a  similar  character,  1 
could  the  more  readily  have  concurred  in  your  Excellency's  opiiiiuu 
on  this  point ;  but  as  liis  treatment  of  the  natives  in  some  other  in- 
stances appears  to  me  equally  harsh  (I  advert  in  passing  to  the  case 
of  Kla;is  Stuunnan  and  Malas  Karabana,  and  also  of  Andrics  Pre- 
torius,  late  of  Philipton*),  as  in  the  case  now  disposed  of,  I  feci 
unable  to  attribute  his  decision  to  mere  mistaken  views  of  duty, 
rather  than  to  the  influence  of  some  prejudice. 

"  1  have  the  honour,  &c., 

"J.  J.  F." 

It  was  shortly  after  this  Buxton  uH'air  that  another  un- 
fortunate case  occurred,  tending,  through  the  unaccount- 
able mismanagement  of  the  magistrate,  and  those  acting 
under  his  instructions,  greatly  to  irritate  and  mortify  the 
people.  I  refer  to  the  driving  away  from  the  settlement  a 
number  of  people  who  had  been  living  there  peaceably  for 
twenty  years,  and  also  the  setting  fire  to  the  huts  of  some 
Fingoes,  who  were  the  resident  and  recognized  servants  of 
people  on  the  settlement.  The  case  is  stated  in  a  letter 
addressed  to  me  by  the  complaining  parties  themselves, 
and  I  prefer,  wherever  it  can  be  done,  to  let  them  just 
state  their  own  grievances  in  their  own  way. 

[Copy.] 

"  Tklmanton,  2Wi  Sept.,  1849, 
"  Rev.  and  IIonoured  Sin, — 
"  Smce  your  departure  we  have  been  much  disturbed.  On  Tues- 
day, Mr.  Borcherds,  the  First  Commissioner,  came  with  a  troop  of 
Kaffir  police,  and  set  fire  to  the  huts  of  our  Fingo  herdsmen  on  the 
other  side  of  the  river,  from  212  to  228  paces  from  our  erven  (allot- 
ments), and  banished  to  Kaffirland  other  men  from  Kat  River  who 
have  already  lived  here  twenty  years.  "\Ve  must  inform  you.  Sir, 
that  we  heard,  about  four  months  ago,  that  it  was  the  intention  of 
Government  to  make  some  Kaffir  squatters  living  on  our  ground,  in 
Fuller's  Iloek,  pay  one  pound  sterling  a  year.f     "We,  therefore,  peti- 

*  For  these  cases,  see  forward. 

t  TliLs  would  be  tantamount  to  a  recognition  of  the  right  of  such 
parties,  then,  to  remain  there,  although  Kaffirs,  and  having  no  right  to 
occupy  the  land  originally  granted  to  the  Hottentots. 


EXPULSION  OF  GONA  HOTTENTOTS.  175 

tioned  Government  to  disallow  it.  Now  conies  Mr.  Borcherds,  and 
instead  of  driving  the  Kaffirs  away,  he  fu-es  the  huts  of  our  Fingo 
lierdsmen,  apjirehends  our  men,  and  banishes  two  to  Kafiirland,  and 
says  that  it  is  the  intention  of  Government  to  have  the  land  of  Kat 
River  measured  over  again,  and  its  limits  contracted.  These  matters 
giieve  us,  and  we  are  of  the  same  mind  with  the  Griquas  and  Moshesh, 
that  we  cannot  confide  in  Sir  Harry  Smith,  and  that  imder  his  gover- 
ment  there  have  been  held  out  more  provoking  measures  since  the 
emancipation  of  the  Hottentots,  and  this,  notwithstanding  all  his  pro- 
testations that  he  is  oxir  friend.  We  shall  determine  not  to  improve 
our  ground  too  much,  nor  to  build  new  houses  thereupon  until  we 
are  sure  of  our  land.  We  desire  youi-  retiuui  to  speak  with  you  about 
these  matters. 

"  We  remain.  Rev.  and  Honoured  Sir, 

"  Your  most  obedient  servants, 

"  S.  HANSE. 

"HANS  JAGER." 

I  now  proceed  to  give  some  details  of  the  mischievous 
case  of  the  driving  out,  with  much  severity,  from  the  settle- 
ment, the  Gona  Hottentots,  and  which  is  so  justly  ani- 
madverted on  in  the  letter  of  Sir  Andries  Stockenstrom.* 
Immediately  I  received  information  from  Kat  Kiver,  that 
such  proceedings  had  taken  place,  I  waited   on  his  Excel- 
lency the  Governor,  and  stated  the  fact.     He  was  utterly 
astonished,  and  could  scarcely  give  credit  to  the  statement. 
He  assured  me  that  "he  had  not  given  orders  for  the 
removal   of  the    Gona  Hottentots ;    that   his    instructions 
extended  only  to   the  removal  of  squatting  Kaffirs ;    that 
the  Gonas  had  been  of  essential  service  to  the  colony,  and 
he  would  rather  have  done  them  a  service  than  have  had 
them   ejected."     It   was   evident   to   me   that   Sir   Harry 
Smith's  orders  had  been  grossly  exceeded  by  the  parties 
to  whom  their  execution  Avas  intrusted,  and  that  the  lleport 
from  the  officers  to  his  Excellency  had  been  so  framed, 
as  to  lead  the  Governor  himself  into  error,  by  keeping 
hack  the  necessary  explanations. 

The  Guvernment  Gazette  of  July  4,   1850,  contained  the 
official  report  of  the  case,  which  his  Excellency  directed  to 

*  See  Chap.  VI.  page  142, 


I7»i  EXPULSION  OK  GONA  HOTTENTOTS. 

be  j^^il'l'^^i*^'^  ^''^^'  g^'Horal  information,  being  the  corre- 
spondence which  passed  between  himself  as  High  Com- 
missioner, and  Colonel  Mackinnon,  Commandant  of  Bri- 
tish Katfraria.  I  think  it  worth  while  to  insert  the  whole 
of  this  correspondence,  as  the  case  has  evidently  so  much 
to  do  with  the  existing  excitement,  an'd.  the  mournful  tra- 
gedy of  disloyalty. 

"King  Milham's  Town, 

"June  2ith,  1850. 
"His  Excellency  the  Higli  Commissioner, 

"  Sir, 
"Ha-vingreceiyed  your  Excellency's  instructions  to  direct  the  Kaffir 
Police  to  co-operate  with  the  civil  authorities  in  the  colony  in  re- 
moATng  a  nxmiber  of  Kaffirs  who  had  without  permission  squatted  on 
the  BUnkwater  in  the  neighboui-hood  of  Plermanvis'  location,  and 
whose  constant  depredations  had  given  great  cause  for  complaint  to 
the  farmers  in  that  part  of  the  country,  I  directed  Superintendent 
Davies  to  place  himself  in  communication  with  the  Civil  Commis- 
sioner of  Fort  Beaufort,  and  to  concert  measures  with  him  for  the 
performance  of  this  service. 

"I  now  enclose  the  copy  of  a  Report  from  Superintendent  Davies, 
by  which  your  Excellency  vfiU.  see  that  the  service  has  been  most 
effectually  performed. 

"  Yoiir  Excellency  will,  I  am  sure,  not  faU  to  appreciate  the  efficient 
manner  in  which  Superintendent  DaA'ies  and  his  men  performed  this 
laborious  duty.  Theu-  ha%ing  executed  it  "without  the  occasionhig 
the  slightest  collision  -with  the  Kaffir  squatters  is  a  proof  how  well 
they  understood  their  work. 

"I  have,  &c., 
"  GEO.  MACKINNON, 
"  Col.,  and  Chief  Commissioner  in  Kaffraria." 


(n.) 


*'  Police  Office,  Fort  Cox, 
"June  20th,  1850. 


"  Colonel  Mackinnon,  C.B., 

"  Chief  Commissioner. 
"Sir, 
"  I  have  the  honour  to  inform  you,  that  in  compliance  -with,  a  requi- 
sition from  the  Civil  Commissioner  for  the  district  of  Fort  Beaufort, 
to  aid  him  in  removing  Kaffir  squatters  from  the  BUnkwater,  I  pro- 


EXPULSION  OF  PEOPLE.  177 

cccded  -with  the  party,  as  shown  in  the  margin,  to  the  Blinkwater 
post,  where  I  had  ordered  the  Kafhr  police  to  rendezvous,  and  where 
I  met  tlie  Civil  Commissioner,  on  Wednesday  afternoon,  the  12th 
instant. 

"  Early  on  Thursday  morning,  I  proceeded  to  Fuller's  Hoek,  leav- 
ing one  Serjeant  and  ten  men  at  the  post,  in  readiness  to  aid  in  any 
way  I  might  require.  After  marching  to  the  head  of  the  kloof,  I  was 
desired  by  the  CivU  Commissioner  to  commence  operations.  At  the 
first  ki-aal  I  found  only  one  man,  but  a  number  of  women,  who  told 
me  they  were  widows.  I  desired  my  men  to  collect  all  the  cattle  and 
goats  from  the  surrounding  hills;  this  produced  a  number  of  Kaffirs. 
I  ordered  the  women  to  pack  up  their  things,  and  take  then-  children 
and  move  off  to  the  Blinkwater  post,  in  charge  of  a  few  policemen. 
I  continued  to  operate  iir  like  manner  at  all  the  kraals  in  the  Iloek. 
Some  of  the  men  being  Ilermanus'  people  were  allowed  to  join  him. 
I  succeeded  in  clearing  this  kloof  by  dusk,  and  returned  to  Blink- 
water post. 

"  Friday  14th.  Cleared  two  Kafhi-  kraals,  one  of  which  belonged 
to  Mali,  of  Botman's  tribe,  whom  I  knew  in  the  war  against  les  ;  I 
sent  the  women,  children,  and  cattle  to  Blinkwater  post,  and  then 
proceeded  to  muster  and  inspect  Hermanns'  people,  reported  to  be 
one  hundred  and  thirty  in  number,  but  I  am  of  opinion,  from  my 
subsequent  operations,  that  they  are  more  than  two  hundred.  This 
day  was  very  unfavourable,  owmg  to  hail,  rain,  and  wind  all  day.  At 
night  again  returned  to  the  Blinkwater  post. 

"Saturday  15th.  I  dispatched  one  native  serjeant  and  ten  privates 
to  Fort  Hare  with  the  Kaffirs,  men,  women,  children,  cattle,  and 
goats,  taken  on  the  two  previous  days  ;  after  which,  I,  with  the  re- 
mainder of  my  party,  ascended  the  hills  to  the  south  of  Hermanus' 
place,  and  cleared  them  of  his  men's  kraals,  which  were  over  the 
boundary  assigned  to  his  people. 

"  At  this  place  the  Civil  Commissioner  for  Beaufort  left  us  on  his 
return  home.  I  continued  to  destroy  Kaffir  kraals,  and  ordered  the 
men,  women,  and  children  to  Buxton.  At  dusk  we  arrived  at  one 
of  the  kloofs  in  the  Kroman  range,  and  bivouacked  in  and  about  the 
Kaffir  kraals.     Rain  and  wind  the  greater  part  of  the  day. 

"  Sundai/,  IGth.  I  was  joined  this  morning  by  the  resident  magis- 
trate from  the  Katlliver  Settlement,  and  at  once  commenced  operations 
on  the  hills  to  the  north-west  of  Hermanns'  place,  where  we  found 
more  of  his  people,  burned  their  huts,  and  passed  them  over  the 
boundary.  These  men  were  not  present  at  the  muster  on  Friday. 
The  chief  Hermanus  complained  that  his  land  was  too  small,  upon 
which  I  replied,  '  Now  was  his  time  to  hand  over  to  me  all  the  men 

N 


178  roMCE  KEroiiT  of  expulsions. 

he  had  too  many,  that  I  might  take  them  to  KafHrkuid,'  which  he 
evaded  hv  saying,  the  men  were  his  ;  I  then  told  him  both  his  own 
and  his  men's  cattle  were  liable  to  be  put  in  the  colonial  pounds  for 
trespass,  il'  ever  they  were  found  agam  over  the  boundary  of  the  land 
allotted  to  him  and  his  people.  I  next  returned  to  the  Kixme  kloof, 
where  I  found  more  of  Ilermanus'  people,  whose  cattle  had  been 
driven  to  his  locations  on  my  approach  the  night  before.  I  destroyed 
their  huts  and  handed  them  over  to  him.  I  also  destroyed  a  number 
of  kraals  belonging  to  other  Kaffirs,  taking  the  people  and  cattle  with 
me.  I  ordered  the  men  to  bivouac  in  the  ueighboiirhood  of  the  upper 
Blinkwater. 

"Monday,  I7th.  I  again  commenced  operations  —  burning  and 
destroying  kraals  belonging  to  the  Kaffir  squatters  around  tliis  place, 
taking  the  men,  women,  children,  goats,  and  cattle,  with  us,  which 
were  now  very  numerous.  Late  in  the  afternoon  we  arrived  on  the 
hiU  above  Buxton,  and  slept  in  the  Kaffir  kraals  in  the  vicinity. 

"  Tuesday,  18th.  Commenced  again  destroymg  kraals  belonging 
to  squatters,  both  Kaffirs  and  Fingoes.  At  this  place,  although  the 
residence  of  a  field-cornet  named  Andries  Botha  (a  Ghona  Kaffir,  I 
am  informed  by  my  men)  were  a  greater  number  of  squatters  than  at 
any  other  place  ;  also  more  cattle  in  this  neighbourhood,  some  of 
which  were  brand-marked.  I  continued  to  remove  them  for  about 
two  miles  below  Buxton  tow^ards  Hertzog,  where  the  resident  magis- 
trate and  police  under  Lieut.  Campbell,  separated  from  me  ;  they 
taking  the  road  to  Hertzog,  and  I,  with  the  remainder  of  the  police, 
with  aU  the  squatters  taken,  men,  women,  and  children,  with  all  theii- 
cattle,  marched  to  Fort  Hare.  The  party  proceeded  but  slowly,  owing 
to  the  great  number  of  women  and  children  ;  night  coming  on  when 
within  about  five  miles  of  the  Mankazana,  I  was  compelled  to  sleep 
at  this  place.  The  night  was  cold  and  fi-osty  :  I  was  fortimate  in 
getting  shelter  for  the  women  and  children  in  the  huts  about  the 
place. 

"  "Wednesday,  19th.  The  pai-ty  moved  off  early  this  morning  with 
the  women  and  children,  the  last  of  which  did  not  arrive  at  Fort 
Hare  until  after  dark.  The  Fingoe  squatters — about  thirtymen,  ninety 
w^omen,  and  a  great  number  of  childi-en,  -with  four  hundred  head  of 
cattle,  and  two  hundi-ed  and  fifty  goats,  were  sent  to  their  several 
locations. 

"  Thursday,  20th.  Early  this  morning  I  ordered  the  foot  party  to 
Fort  Cox.  The  Kaffirs,  to  the  number  of  fifty  men,  and  upwards  of 
one  hundred  women,  with  their  children,  who  stated  they  belonged 
to  Kaffirland,  were  sent  to  the  locations  of  their  chiefs,  with  their 
cattle,  &c.     About  forty  Kaffirs,  who  stated  that  they  had  no  chief 


THE  governor's  COMMENDATION.  179 

but  the  government,  and  had  been  in  the  colony  before  the  war,  I 
allowed  to  remain  near  the  Police  Station  at  Fort  Hare,  with  their 
cattle,  luitil  some  arrangements  can  be  made  by  the  authorities  to 
locate  them. 

"  The  following  is  as  correct  a  list  as  could  be  taken  in  so  short  a 
time  : — 


Men. 

Women. 

Children. 

Cattle. 

Goats. 

Fingoes 

30 

90 

400 

300 

Kaffirs   belonging   to 

KaSirland    .      .      . 

50 

150 

647 

290 

Kaffirs  who  state  they 

belong   to   the  co- 

"2 2 

-M  ^    a; 

S8§ 

lony    

40 

64 

1000 

500 

Kaffirs    removed     to 

u    ^    ^ 

Hermanns'  location 

25 

50 

J    ;3    0) 

300 

300 

Total,  145         350     not  kno^vn.     2347         1390 

"  The  above  is  rather  under  than  over  the  numbers. 
"  The  Police  destroyed,  during  the  operations,  upwards  of  three 
hundred  huts  between  Fuller's  Hoek  and  Buxton,  the  whole  of  which 
was  conducted  without  the  slightest  resistance  on  the  part  of  either 
Kaffir  or  Fingoe  squatters.  I  have  also  to  inform  you  that  the  chief 
Hermanus  was  very  obedient,  and  did  all  I  desired  him  to  do.  I  re- 
turned with  my  mounted  men  to  Fort  Cox  about  four  o'clock  this 
afternoon. 

"  I  have  the  honour  to  be,  &c., 

(Signed)  "DAVID  DAVIES, 

"Capt.  and  Supt.  Com.  1st.  Div.  Kaffij  Police." 

(in.) 

"  Governmc7it  House, 

1st  Julij,  1850. 

"  Colonel  Mackimion,  C.B. 
"  Sir, 

"  I  have  the  honovu"  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  yoiu"  letter,  No. 
165,  of  the  24th  ultimo,  transmitting  me  the  Report  of  Mr.  Superin- 
iutendent  Davies,  of  the  1st  Division  Kaffir  Police,  who  had  been  dii-ect- 
ed  by  you  to  remove  certain  parties  of  Kaffirs  who  had  squatted  ^vithin 
the  colony.  The  able  and  temperate  manner  in  which  this  officer  has 
performed  this  very  difficult  duty  deserves  great  encomium ;  and  I 
request  you  would  convey  the  same  to  him. 

"It  is  obvious  how  perl'ectly  efficient  the  Kaffir  Police  is,  and  how 
well  it  executes  every  duty  it  is  called  upon  to  perform.  I  attach 
much  importance  to  such  service  ;  and  I  shall  direct  the  publication 
of  this  report  in  order  to  show  generally  the  utility  of  the  Kaffir 


IBO  LETTER  FllOM  MU.  C.  BROWNLEE. 

Police.  I  request  yoii  also  to  inform  the  Kaffir  chief  Ilermanus  that 
I  am  satisfied  with  the  assistance  he  rendered  Mr.  Davies,  and  that 
as  his  land  is  now  cleared  of  these  squatters  I  expect  he  will  keep  it 
so.     Mr.  Davies'  considerate  care  of  the  •women  and  cliildren  is  very 

meritorious. 

"  I  have,  &c., 
(Signed)  "H.  G.  SMITH." 

As  so  much  perplexity  seemed  to  peiTade  this  subject,  I 
deemed  it  right  to  apply  to  the  Government  for  copy  of  the 
instructions  to  the  local  magistrates  for  the  removal  of  the 
Kaffirs,  and  I  was  obligingly  furnished  with  them.  The 
two  following  documents  wull  explain  themselves.  It  has 
been  already  seen  that  the  people  of  Blinkwater  had  applied 
to  the  Governor  for  the  removal  of  certain  squatting  Kaffirs. 
His  Excellency  then  desired  an  investigation  to  be  made, 
and  the  first  of  the  two  following  letters  contains  the  Eeport 
of  Mr.  C.  Brownlee,  Gaika  Commissioner,  to  Colonel  Mac- 
kinnon,  as  to  the  matter,  and  the  second  the  instructions 
of  the  Governor.  In  carrying  out  these  instructions  it  is 
evident  that  sufficient  care  was  not  taken  to  follow  either 
their  letter  or  their  spirit. 

[Copy.] 

"  Fort  Cox, 
"  Colonel  Mackinnon,  C.B.,  "  Qth  May,  1850. 

"  Chief  Commissioner. 
"  Sir, 
*'  I  have  the  honour  to  report  for  your  information  that,  according 
to  yoiu-  direction,  I  proceeded  last  week  to  the  Blinkwater,  to  make 
some  inquiry  respecting  the  Kaffirs  at  present  there. 

"  There  are  about  300  (three  himdi-ed)  Kaffirs  in  the  Blinkwater, 
exclusive  of  w^omen  and  childi-en. 

"These  people  may  be  divided  into  tlrrce  classes,  namely  : — 
"1st.  Those  who  came  into  the  colony  previous  to  the  war  of  1835, 
and  who  did  burgher  duty  in  the  colony  during  that  Avar. 

"  2nd.  Those  who  came  into  the  colony  before  the  war  of  1846,  and 
who  served  in  the  colony  dui-ing  this  war, 

"  3rd.  Those  who  came  into  the  colony  after  the  late  war,  of  which 
there  are  nearly  one  hundred  men  in  the  Blinkwater. 

"The  first  two  classes  having  served  against  their  country-men,  the 


LETTER  FROM  THE  GOVERNOR.  181 

same  as  any  other  colonists,  I  consider  them  to  be  entitled  to  be  treated 
in  the  same  way  as  the  Fingoes  are,  and  I  think  they  shoiild  be  located 
either  in  the  Blinkwater,  or  in  any  other  locality  which  may  be  con- 
sidered more  eligible. 

"Among  these  people  there  are  some  who  are  members  of  Mr.  Read's 
congregation,  and  who  have  made  some  advancement  in  civilization.  It 
is  supposed  that  they  would  advance  still  farther,  if  their  residence  in 
the  Blinkwater  was  placed  upon  some  defined  and  understood  footing. 

"  The  third  class  should  at  once  be  removed,  at  least  as  soon  as  they 
gather  their  crops,  which  are  at  present  in  a  state  of  forwardness. 

"  Those  persons  of  the  first  and  second  classes  Avho  practise  hea- 
thenish customs,  and  who  do  not  bear  good  characters,  should  like- 
wise be  removed. 

"Lists  might  be  furnished  by  the  field  cornets,  showing  the  periods 
of  residence  in  the  colony,  the  service  and  characters  of  such  persons 
as  are  at  present  in  the  Blinkwater.  With  such  a  list  for  a  guide,  it 
would  be  easy  to  determine  who  were  to  be  sent  to  Kafhrland,  and 
who  should  be  othermse  treated. 

"  Without  remarking  upon  the  bad  effects  which  would  result  from 
summarily  sending  into  Kaffirland  men  who  have  been  with  us  during 
war,  I  may  merely  say  that  these  men  are  entitled  to  different  treat- 
ment, and  their  services,  from  whatever  motive  performed,  cannot  be 
overlooked. 

"  I  have,  &c., 
"  (Signed)         CHARLES  BROWNLEE, 
A  true  copy,  "Gaika  Commissioner." 

(Signed)       J.  Ayliff. 

[Copy.] 

"  Colonial  Office,  Cape  Town, 
"The  Civil  Commissioner,  "  IGi/iMai/,  1850. 

"  Fort  Beaufort. 
"  Sir, 
"In  forwarding  to  you  the  accompanying  copy  of  a  letter  addressed 
by  the  Gaika  Commissioner  to  Colonel  Mackinnon,  respecting  the 
Kaffirs  at  the  Blinkwater,  I  am  directed  by  His  Excellency  the  Gover- 
nor to  instruct  you  how  to  proceed  with  each  of  those  three  classes 
referred  to  by  Mr.  Brownlee. 

"The  Governor  desires  that  such  Kaffirs  as  fall  within  the  first  and 
second  classes  are  to  be  located  on  the  Blinkwater,  at  such  places  as 
you  select,  to  be  treated  similarly  to  the  Fingoes  located  in  yoiir 
division,  and  to  pay  the  said  amount  of  rent.  They  will  be  allowed 
to  continue  on  these  terms  so  long  as  they  are  properly  conducted, 
and  punctual  in  the  payment  of  the  rent. 


lf^'2  LETTER  ?TvOM  BOTHA  TO  THE  GOVEUNOR. 

"  Those  who  come  -witliin  the  third  class  are  to  be  removed  immedi- 
ately after  they  gather  their  present  crops,  and  to  be  allo-sved  to  return 
to  their  o'wn  people,  b\it  by  no  means  to  re-enter  the  Blinkwater. 

"  If  any  difficulties  are  tlirown  in  your  way,  when  attemptiiig  to 
remove  them,  you  are  requested  to  apply  to  Colonel  Mackinnon  for 
such  aid  as  you  may  require,  and  it  ■will  be  forwarded  to  you. 
"Please  to  report  the  restdt  of  your  proceedhigs. 

"  I  have,  &c., 
"(Signed)  JOHN  MONTAGU." 

It  will  be  observ-ed,  that  in  all  this  correspondence 
Kaffir  and  Fingoe  squatters  *  alone  are  spoken  of,  whereas 
among  those  expelled  were  the  Gonas,  who  though  some- 
times called  Gona  Kaffirs,  are  more  properly  Gona  Hotten- 
tots, and  have  been  always  recognized  as  such  ;  they  Avere 
legitimately  settled  at  Kat  River,  from  its  commence- 
ment by  Sir  Lowry  Cole,  and  the  Commissioner,  now  Sir 
Andries  Stockenstrom,  and  are  the  parties  referred  to  by 
Sir  Hariy  Smith,  when  he  assured  me  he  would  have  pre- 
ferred to  render  them  a  service.  These  are  among  the  parties 
driven  away  and  burnt  out. 

Immediately  after  these  expulsions  had  taken  place,  the 
Field  Comet,  Andries  Botha,  wrote  a  letter  on  the  subject 
to  the  Governor,  which  sets  the  matter  in  a  clear  light,  and 
does  the  writer  (a  native)  gi-eat  credit.     It  is  as  follows  : — 

[Copy.] 

"  Buxton,  June  23rd,  1850. 
"  Sir, 
"  Hoping  that  your  Excellency  will  not  take  amiss  my  address- 
ing this  letter  immediately  to  you,  in  behalf  of  myself  and  part  of  the 
people  belonging  to  my  field-cometcy. 

"  Your  Excellency  knows  me  ;  I  am  an  old  servant  of  Government, 
and  I  hope  a  faithful  one  ;  I  served  under  Government  in  the  war  of 
1835  ;  your  Excellency  knows  I  never  flinched  from  duty ;  I  never 

*  By  "  squatters"  are  usually  understood  persons  who  settle  do-wn 
on  Government  or  private  land  without  permission.  They  are  usually 
men  of  suspicious  character,  ha-ving  no  visible  means  of  support,  in 
distinction  from  the  Gonas  now  driven  out,  who  had  means  of  sup- 
port, for  they  possessed  cattle,  and  cultivated  land  to  a  large  extent ; 
wi.d  were  all  well  known  on  the  settlement,  and  much  respected. 


SUFFERINGS  OF  THE  GONA  HOTTENTOTS.         183 

feared  to  face  the  enemy — aiid  that  with  the  very  men  who  have  now 
been  so  shamefully  expelled  from  the  settlement.  I  do  not  think  it 
Avas  by  your  Excellency's  order,  for  your  heart  is  too  generous  and 
too  good  to  be  unkind.  As  I  have  fought  with  you  in  the  war  of 
1835,  so  I  fought  again  with  the  same  men  in  the  last  war.  Colonel 
Hare  borrowed  me  from  Sir  A.  Strockcnstrom,  and  sent  me  into  the 
Amatola,  where  we  had  to  fight  against  a  large  body  of  Kaffirs  from 
morning  untU  night;  but  w^e  di'ove  out  the  Kaffirs  from  the  bush  into 
the  plains  of  the  Pits  m  one  day.  I  have  always  endeavovired  to 
make  myself  worthy  the  confidence  placed  in  me,  and  always  until 
now,  had  the  approbation  of  my  suj^eriors.  Now  I  must  tell  your 
Excellency  of  the  trouble  that  has  come  over  me,  but  your  Excellency 
must  permit  me  to  tell  my  whole  story.  Your  Excellency  well  knoAvs 
that  when  this  settlement  was  commenced  in  1829,  many  of  my 
fi'iends,  for  the  most  part  of  my  family  are  Gonas,  were  in  Kaffirland, 
and  wishing  to  come  to  the  colony,  to  dwell  among  their  friends, 
they  applied  to  Sir  A.  Stockenstrom,  who  received  them  into  the 
settlement :  so  they  came  ;  some  were  at  Balfour,  some  at  Philipton, 
and  some  with  me  at  Buxton.  Most  of  those  at  Balfour  got  erfs  imme- 
diately from  Sir  A.  Stockenstrom  and  Mr.  Hertzog.  Those  located 
at  Philipton  subsequently  received  erfs  at  Lower  Blinkwater  ;  some 
few  are  still  at  Pliilipton,  where  Colonel  Hare  promised  they  should 
have  erfs ;  of  those  wlio  came  here  only  a  few  got  erfs  measured 
out  to  them  ;  many  who  were  boys  are  now  men ;  they  have  always 
been  expecting  to  get  erfs,  according  to  promise,  but  it  was  not  done, 
and  as  they  were  among  their  friends,  and  no  complaints,  we  did  not 
lu'ge  their  leaving;  thus  they  have  remained  among  their  friends 
until  now.  They  were  ready  for  any  duty,  paid  regularly  the  taxes 
as  long  as  we  paid,  went  on  patrols  against  the  Kaffirs,  and  fought 
two  wars. 

"In  1837  some  few  more  came  out  of  Kaffirland  to  their  friends  ; 
they  also  fought  with  us  in  the  war.  Some  time  ago  a  petty  chief, 
named  Dando,  came  from  Kaffirland  with  a  pass  from  Mr.  Brownlee  ; 
he  requested  permission  to  graze  his  cattle  for  a  time,  which  was 
allowed  ;  but  other  Kaffirs  soon  came,  and  our  people  applied  to  our 
magistrate  to  have  them  removed,  which  he  promised  to  do  ;  and  he 
more  than  once  asked  mc  if  their  corn  was  ripe  ;  and  said  to  me, 
that  when  it  was  he  would  come,  saying  at  the  same  time  he  had 
nothing  to  do  with  the  Gonas  and  others,  who  had  been  long  with 
us  or  taken  part  in  the  wars,  and  conducted  themselves  well ;  thus 
we  were  at  rest. 

"  On  Saturday  week  I  heard  that  Mr.  Bowker  was  at  Wilberforce 
with  a  strong  party  of  Kaffir  police,  and  was  burning  all  before  him, 


184  Botha's  letter  of  ExrosruLATioN. 

not  only  the  houses  of  Dando  and  his  followers,  but  all  -who  had 
been  so  long  with  us,  and  livuig  amongst  us,  by  permission  of  erf- 
holders.  According  to  Article  olh  of  the  printed  regulations  for  the 
division  of  the  settlement  of  Kat  lliver,  it  is  provided  that  the  right  of 
grazing  may  be  let  out  by  any  person  who  does  not  require  it  for  his 
own  use  ;  either  part  of  it  or  the  whole,  for  any  period  of  time  not 
exceeding  one  year,  &c.;  and  Mr.  Bowker  has  allowed  several  people 
in  the  settlement  to  let  out  then-  grazing  grass  to  Fingoes.  Being 
tield-cornet  of  the  place,  and  Mr.  Bowker  not  having  told  me  what 
he  was  going  to  do,  I  w-ent  to  him  and  tried  to  exj^lain  the  case  of 
the  various  people  to  him,  but  he  drove  me  away.  ilr.  Bowker  was 
busy  burning  the  whole  of  the  Sunday,  and  only  gave  the  people 
time  to  take  out  their  things  ;  while  a  policeman  was  standing  ready 
with  a  fire-brand  in  his  hand,  to  set  fii-e  to  the  house  ;  poor  women 
and  chilcken  were  thus  turned  out  into  the  open  air  :  Friday,  Satiir- 
day,  Sunday,  being  the  severest  we  have  had  this  season.  The  burn- 
ing of  "Wilberforce  being  ended  by  Monday  night,  the  party  came  to 
Buxton  on  Thursday  morning,  when  burning  commenced  iname- 
diately,  and  no  entreaties  of  erf-holders,  tears  of  mothers  and  children, 
availed  ;  one  after  another,  old  and  young,  were  tui-ned  out  and  the 
house  burnt;  some  women  with  infants,  but  lately  out  of  childbed, 
and  all  diiven  aw-ay  before  the  Kaffir  police.  Among  those  driven  away 
there  were  upwards  of  thii-ty  families  who  have  been  with  us  twenty 
years  ;  have  conducted  themselves  well,  and  nothing  was  laid  to 
their  charge.  If  previous  warning  had  been  given,  they  might 
quietly  have  withdrawn  from  the  settlement ;  but  not  a  moment's 
warning  was  given  ;  the  way  in  which  these  people  have  been  biurnt 
out  has  created  some  sensation  in  the  settlement,  as  even  their  ser- 
vants have  been  driven  away.  I  beg  leave  to  inclose  a  list  of  the 
names  of  the  Gonas  and  Fingoes  above  alluded  to,  as  also  a  list  of 
the  names  of  the  erf-holders  who  made  a  declaration  that  they  did 
not  ask  for  the  removal  of  those  people.  It  was  not  my  intention  to 
have  troubled  your  Excellency,  painful  as  the  case  is ;  but  as  Mr. 
Bowker  has  dismissed  me  without  giving  any  reason,  I  have  thought 
it  my  duty  to  give  your  Excellency  a  plain  statement  of  facts,  and 
beg  humbly  and  respectfully  to  repeat  my  requests  made  to  the 
honourable  Secretary  to  Government,  that  I  may  have  an  impartial 
investigation  of  my  case.  I  am  not  a  perfect  man  ;  I  have  my  faults, 
and  liable  to  err  like  any  other  man,  but  I  have  always  tried  to  serve 
Government  faithfully  both  in  war  and  in  peace. 

"  I  have,  &c., 
(Signed)         "ANDRIES  BOTHA,  Sen., 

"  Field-Comet." 


SUMMARY  OF  THE  CASE.  185 

The  following  just  observations  were  conveyed  to  me 
by  a  party  on  the  spot,  as  containing  a  summary  of  this 
case. 

1.  It  was  quite  right  that  the  Government  should  expel 
the  Kaffirs  from  the  Chumie.  They  were  a  set  of  Kaffir 
adventurers,  who  had  settled  down  about  three  miles  from 
Wilberforce,  and  six  miles  north-east  of  Hermanus'  people. 
Nothing  is  said  against  the  fact  of  their  expulsion,  only 
that  it  was  inhuman  to  burn  them  out  amidst  such  piercing 
cold  weather,  and  without  any  shelter  being  provided  for 
them,  and  all  this  too  on  the  Sunday. 

It  is  distinctly  admitted  that  the  people  of  Wilberforce 
and  Buxton  had  themselves  requested  the  Government  to 
remove  those  squatters.     But  then — 

2.  The  Gonas  had  been  on  the  settlement  from  its 
commencement — they  were  of  Hottentot  descent :  the 
Hottentot  erf-holders  of  allotments  had,  according  to  the 
legal  regulations  of  the  settlement,  permitted  them  to  re- 
side among  them,  and  they  had  rendered  most  signal  service 
to  the  Government.  These  oughtnot  to  have  been  expelled; 
or,  if  for  any  grave  purposes  they  were  to  be  removed  at 
all,  it  should  have  been  in  a  far  different  manner,  and 
with  great  considei-ation,  and  with  previous  provision  for 
their  future  residence. 

3.  Due  notice  ought  to  have  been  given  of  the  intended 
measures  of  the  government,  and  it  was  not  given. 

4.  It  was  most  arbitrary  and  cruel  to  force  into  Kaffir- 
land,  or  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  Kaffirs,  these 
Gonas,  Fingoes,  and  Kaffirs,  ivho  had  served  the  Govern- 
ment daring  the  late  war,  and  thereby  incurred  the  hatred  of 
the  Kaffirs,  and  who  would  now  have  opportunities  of 
taking  in  some  way  their  revenge. 

5.  It  was  cruel  policy  to  send  a  rough  lot  of  "Kaffir 
police"  to  burn  out  tlie  Gonas  and  others  on  the  lands 
of  the  Hottentots,  on  this  ground,  that  only  four  years 
previously,  Andries  Botha,  with  these  very  Gonas,  under 
Sir  Andries  Stockenstrom,  had  cleared  the  Kaffirs  out  of 


l."^fl  CATTLK  IMrOUNPEI). 

the  Amatola  mountains.  No  wonder  these  Kaffirs,  now  in 
tht>  sorvicc  of  the  Government,  taunted  the  Gonas, — "  As 
you  burnt  out  the  Amatola^  we  come  now  to  burn  you  out 
in  tiu-n."  But  Government  ought  to  liave  protected  its  old 
and  faitliful  servants. 

6.  It  looks  like  revenge  on  the  part  of  tlie  magistrate, 
Mr.  Bowker;  for  these  Gonas,  now  expelled,  were  those 
who  had  been  so  severely  fined,  and  whose  fines  were 
ordered  by  the  Governor  to  be  repaid,  and  which  he  had 
not  yet  repaid. 

Nothing  could  be  more  galling  or  provoking  to  the 
people  than  such  proceedings,  conducted,  too,  in  such  a 
manner,  at  such  a  season,  and  by  such  parties,  and  all 
after  great  and  noble  sei^vices  for  the  Government ! 

Another  serious  cause  of  irritation  among  the  people 
arose  out  of  the  excessive  charges  they  were  subjected  to 
in  impounding  of  their  cattle,  under  circumstances  of  an 
aggravating  character.  The  case  is  suitably  described  in  a 
letter  which  I  received  from  a  friend  shortly  before  I  sailed 
from  the  Cape,  on  my  return  home  : — 

"  You  will  be  sorry  to  hear  that  the  people  of  Lower  Blinkwater 
are  in  great  trouble  tlirough  the  conduct  of  Mr.  Cobb,  the  superin- 
tendent of  Fingoes  and  Hermanns'  peoj^le,  who  lives  about  a  mile 
above  Tidmanton.  I  shall  first  of  all  give  you  a  copy  of  Mr.  Van 
Rooyen  and  the  people's  letter  to  Mr.  Bowker,  and  the  list  of  the 
moneys  paid  to  Mr.  Cobb  : — 

[Translation.] 

"  '  Tidmanton,  24:th  June,  18-30. 
"  '  Honoured  Sir, — 
"  'I  send  you,  ■with  this,  a  letter  from  the  people  of  Blinkwater,  com- 
plaining about  Mr.  Sup*.  Cobb,  who  is  unceasingly  sending  their 
cattle  to  the  pound.  I  think  it  is  very  hard  that  the  people  should  be 
ruined  by  Government  servants,  as  your  worship  may  see  by  the  ac- 
companying list  that  Mr.  Cobb  has  already  got  above  £9  sterling  in 
money  and  foirr  young  oxen  and  tliree  goats,  and  only  because,  he 
says,  that  the  cattle  trespass  on  the  grazing  line  of  the  post. 

"  '  We  begin  to  think  that  he  asked  your  worship  to  measure  to  hi;n 


IRRITATION  OF  THE  PEOPLE.  187 

ground  in  our  commonage  that  he  may  use  it  as  a  pitfall  to  get  our 
cattle  and  money. 

"  'If  things  go  on  so,  the  inhabitants  find  it  impossible  to  remain 
here  any  longer.  This  is  nothing  but  violent  oppression.  We  trust 
that  yom-  worship  will  send  copies  of  all  our  letters  to  his  Excellency. 
We  have  thought  it  right  to  send  copies  to  the  agent  of  the  London 
Missionary  Society,  in  order  to  speak  to  his  Excellency  when  he  re- 
ceives letters  from  your  worship.  We  are  desu'ous  of  looking  on  the 
laws  and  the  executors  of  the  laws  as  means  by  which  order  and  our 
liberties  are  to  be  maintained  and  preserved,  and  not  as  instruments 
of  oppression.  I,  as  well  as  the  field-coronet  and  others  of  the  people, 
have  ab-eady  spoken  to  you  about  these  things. 
"  '  I  remain.  Sir, 

"  'Your  obedient  servant, 

"  '  A.  VAN  ROOYEN. 


"  '  To  J.  R.  Bowker,  Esq., 
"  '  Resident  Magistrate.' 


"  '  Tidmant07i,  June  2Uh,  1850. 


"  '  Sir,— 

"  'It  is  v\ith  much  regret  that  we  have  again  to  complain  to  you  as 
some  of  us  did  to  you  the  day  we  were  at  Mr.  Elakenay's  place, 
about  the  conduct  of  the  superintendent,  Mr.  Cobb,  towards  us.  Since 
that  gentleman  came  here  he  has  kept  up  a  continual  friction  and 
unpleasantness  Avith  us.  We  think  the  oliject  of  the  Government  in 
appointing  functionaries  is  not  to  ill-use  her  Majesty's  subjects  or  to 
irritate  the  feelings  of  the  people,  biit  to  do  what  is  just  and  right  so 
as  that  they  shall  be  a  protection  to  those  that  do  well  and  a  terror  to 
those  that  do  evU. 

"  '  What  we  complain  of  is,  that  Mr.  Cobb  is  constantly  sending  our 
cattle  to  the  pound,  and  exacting  exorbitant  demands  from  us  for  the 
release  of  our  cattle,  as  you  will  see  from  the  accompanying  list,  which 
can  be  vouched  for  by  receipts  of  the  pound-master  at  Fort  Beaufort, 
and  competent  witnesses  on  the  spot.  It  will  be  necessary,  in  order  to 
explain  the  case,  to  remind  you  that  the  post  is  about  a  mile  from  the 
station  of  Tidmanton,  and  situate  in  ouj."  commonage.  That,  when 
Sir  George  Napier  was  on  the  frontier,  he  induced  several  posts  to  be 
established  in  the  Kat  River,  and  post  land  was  set  ajjart  by  Engineer 
Capt.  Napier,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Blinkwater  rivulet.  Not- 
vvdthstanding  this,  the  present  post  having  been  already  established, 
it  never  was  removed.  The  officers  who  commanded  never  interfered 
with  the  inhabitants,  but  lived  in  the  greatest  goodwill  with  the  peo- 
ple whose  erfs  are  near  the  post  and  at  greater  distances.     The  troop 


188 


"  WE  ARE  TIRED  OF  IRRITATIONS." 


horses  often  came  to  the  people's  locations,  but  ■\vc  said  nothing,  as  we 
looked  on  the  troops  as  protectors  of  the  country. 

"  •  This  was  the  case  at  all  the  military  posts — Ecland's  post.  Fort 
Armstrong,  and  the  Chumie  post,  on  both  sides  the  Chumie  mountain. 
Since  Mr.  Cobb  came  here  he  has  impounded  our  cattle  AvMch  have 
come  within  what  he  calls  the  lands  of  the  post,  and  thereby  made 
us  pay  the  moneys  and  cattle  specified  in  the  Kst.  From  the  position 
of  the  post,  it  has  become  quite  a  pitfall  to  us,  and  we  shall  soon 
become  quite  impoverished  if  things  go  on  so.  You  must  please  to 
remark.  Sir,  that  the  cattle  impounded,  and  for  which  we  have  had  to 
pay,  were  not  for  trespassing  on  gardens  or  fields,  but  for  grazing  on 
what  Mr.  Cobb  calls  the  lands  of  the  post.  Sir,  after  eighteen  years, 
it  is  quite  time  that  our  lands  should  be  rightly  defined  and  security 
be  given  that  we  can  sit  under  our  \'ine  and  fig-tree,  none  making  us 
afraid.  We  are  tired  of  ii-ritations  ;  we  sigh  for  peace  and  good 
understanding  with  oiu"  legal  protectors  ;  we  wish  to  cherish  confi- 
dence in  the  servants  of  Government.  Mr.  Cobb  is  also  constantly 
holding  out  irritating  language  against  us.  The  other  day,  while  the 
KafBjs  were  being  expelled  from  Fuller's  Hoek,  he  said  to  Isaac 
Moscus  and  others,  that  as  soon  as  it  was  done  with  the  Kafiirs  they 
would  begin  with  the  Hottentots.  "\Ve  tliiiik  it  our  duty  to  state 
these  things  to  Government. 

"  '  We  are  sure  his  Excellency  must  feel  annoyed  at  constant  com- 
plaints coming  to  him,  but  he  must  see  that  there  is  something  wrong. 

"  '  We  shall  thank  you.  Sir,  to  pray  his  Excellency  also  to  let  us 
have  our  diagrams  for  our  erfs  and  grazing  lands.  We  cannot  im- 
prove our  lands  wliile  there  is  so  much  uncertainty  about  them. 
With  a  full  confidence  that  his  Excellency  will  paternally  interfere 
in  these  matters,  after  your  representation  of  our  case,  ''' 
"  '  We  remain, 

"  '  Yoiir  obedient  servants, 
"  '  Subscribed  by  the  Erf-holders  of  Tidmanton. 
"  '  To  T.  H.  Bowker,  Esq., 
"  '  Resident  Magistrate,  Hertzog. 

"  '  List  of  Monies  and  Cattle  paid  by  the  People  of  Tidmanton  for 
the  Trespass  Cattle  on  what  Mr.  C.  calls  Commonage  Lands. 


'  Klaas  Nacka  paid  the  pound-master  for  twenty- 

two  head  of  cattle 

1   11 

0 

For  horse     ....... 

0  11 

1 

JanSpoyte  ....... 

0     7 

2 

Bacus  Nacka         ...... 

4     3 

4 

Raus  Backneus,  for  goats      .... 

1     3 

4 

EXCITKMENT  AT  KAT  EIVER. 


189 


£   s. 

d. 

0     3 

6 

1     3 

4i 

0     5 

0 

0  17 

0 

1   10 

0 

1     0 

0 

1     0 

0 

2     5 

0 

0  15 

9 

15     1 

5i"' 

Peit  Hollunde,  for  his  bull  being  found  on  the  post 

Kans  Bactneus,  for  goats 

Valentine  Jacobs. 

Rupido  Klaas 

Field- cornet's  servant,  one  ox 

Kemaduck  Nacka,  young  ox 

Jasejoh  Janges,  young  ox    . 

Kaent  Klaas,  ox  . 

Boy  Malapa,  three  goats 


The.  letter  to  me  which  enclosed  the  above,  continues  as 
follows : — 

"  You  will  see,  my  dear  Sir,  from  Field-cornet  Botha's  letter  to 
the  Governor,  which  my  father  has  inclosed  to  you,  the  mamier  which 
characterized  the  expulsion  of  the  Gonas  and  Fingoes  from  Upper 
Blinkwater  and  Buxton.  The  excitement  in  the  settlement  about  the 
proceedings  of  Mr.  Bowker  is  very  strong.  Wliile  the  Kaffir  police 
were  burning  the  kraals  of  Botha's  Fingoes  at  Buxton,  one  of  the  police 
is  said  to  have  remarked,  'As  Botha  came  to  the  Amatola  so  have  we 
come  to  him  to-day.'  Botha,  you  must  know,  was  one  of  the  com- 
manders at  the  Amatola  vmder  Stockenstrom.  Is  it  prudent  to  awaken 
such  feelings  between  Hottentots  and  Kaffirs  ?  From  the  state  of 
feeling,  I  think  there  would  be  a  collision  if  the  Governor  were 
again  to  send  Kaffir  police  to  burn  Fingoe  huts  on  the  erfs  or  grazing 
lands  of  Hottentots.  The  feelings  of  the  Hottentots  are  gettmg  so 
strong  against  Government,  I  do  not  think  they  would  get  the 
Hottentots  to  turn  out  if  the  Kaffirs  were  to  enter  the  colony.  Sir 
Harry  will  have  to  change  Mr.  Bowker  and  Mr.  Cobb,  or  he  will 
alienate  the  feelings  of  the  people  from  the  Government  altogether. 
Bowker  has  unjustly  and  summarily  dismissed  Andi'ies  Botha  from 
his  situation,  as  you  wiU  see  from  the  letter  signed  by  the  people,  and 
which,  after  perusal,  you  will  also  please  to  cause  to  be  sent  to  the 
Governor.  The  people  have  prayed  for  a  commission  of  mquiiy  on 
the  affairs  of  the  Kat  River. 

"  The  case  of  the  Blinkwater  people  and  Cobb  is  a  grievous  one. 
It  is,  of  course,  the  right  of  Government  to  establish  posts  wherever 
they  please.  But  the  rule  which  has  been  observed  at  Kat  River  is 
that  posts  never  interfered  with  the  grazing  lands,  as  the  troop  horses 
always  grazed  on  the  general  commonage.     This  was  also  the  case 


100  EXCESSIVE  EXACTIONS. 

wliilc  the  troops  were  at  Bliukwator.  Since  the  war  there  have  been 
no  troops  at  any  of  the  posts  of  Kat  River  and  Blinkwater.  Mr. 
Cobb  is,  however,  occupying  the  premises  at  the  lower  Blmkwater 
posts,  and  instead  of  living  in  peace  with  the  people  he  is  harassing 
them  perpetually,  as  you  wUl  see  from  the  letters  to  Mr.  Bowker.  It 
is  impossible  for  the  people  to  live  at  Tidnianton  if  Mr.  Cobb  is 
allowed  to  go  on  in  this  way." 

Again,  in  my  letter  to  liis  Excellency  the  Governor, 
dated  8tli  June,  J  850,  I  incidentally  referred  to  the  cases 
of  Stuurman  and  Karabana.  It  is  in  brief  as  follows,  as 
stated  in  a  letter  to  Jno.  INIontagu,  Esq.,  Secretary  to 
Government,  and  dated  Stockenstrom,=''-  18th  July,  1850, 
signed  by  a  respectable  number  of  the  inhabitants : — 

"  The  cattle  of  these  men  were,  in  the  first  instance,  seized  on  sus- 
picion, accordmg  to  Kafhr  law,  though  they  are  colonists ;  but  no 
case  being  proved  against  them,  they  were  sent  to  prison  for  a  month, 
on  a  charge  of  holding  out  tlu'catening  language  to  Mr.  TroUip, 
without  having  any  fail-  opportunity  allowed  them  of  disproving  it, 
and  then  £1  13s.  was  exacted  fi-om  each,  as  expenses  in  a  case  of 
crimijial  prosecution  !  "V\Tien  the  Governor's  decision  arrived,  in  the 
matter  of  the  Buxton  Gonas  (the  thi-ee  penalties  of  £10  each),  which 
requii'ed  the  fines  to  be  refimded,  the  magistrate  very  quietly  re- 
turned the  above  £1  IS*,  to  each  of  the  two  sufferers,  but  without 
making  any  amends  for  their  incarceration,  their  loss  of  time,  and 
injury  to  health." 

Was  it  possible  that  such  proceedings  should  not  ex- 
cessively irritate  the  people?  The  same  letter  to  Mr. 
Montagu  contains  sundry  other  cases.     I  select  a  few. 

There  were  two  men,  Kleinboy  and  Bruin,  who  had 
kindly  volunteered  to  assist  a  party  in  tracing  some  oxen. 
After  being  two  days  at  home,  the  same  magistrate  (Mr. 
Bowker)  desired  the  field-cornet,  A.  Botha,  to  send  them 
to  Hertzog,  the  place  of  his  residence,  on  a  charge  of 
having  attempted  to  lead  off  the  above  party  in  pursuit  of 
the  oxen  from  the  right  foot-marks ;  without  being  exa- 
mined they  were  sent  off  to  Beaufort  Prison,  and  detained 
there  three  weeks,  and  then  allowed  to  give  bail  till  the 
*  Another  name  for  Kat  River, 


CAUSES  OF  IRRITATION.  191 

Circuit  Court  came  round,  and  then  they  were  never  tried 
at  all !     Of  course  there  was  no  evidence  against  them. 

A  few  months  previously,  eight  men  had  been  appre- 
hended; three  by  the  field- cornet,  and  five  by  the  Kaffir 
police ;  their  place  was  surrounded  by  that  police,  who 
ransacked  their  boxes  and  bags,  and  took  away  portions  of 
their  property,  which  was  never  returned  to  them  ;  three 
were  imprisoned  fourteen  days,  and  five  of  them  eight 
days,  and  then  they  were  all  released,  on  one  of  the  pri- 
soners becoming  bail  for  his  brother ! 

Eighteen  men  were  apprehended  and  imprisoned  on 
the  9th  July,  1850,  on  the  representation  of  Davies  and 
O'Connor,  without  any  investigation  in  the  presence  of 
the  accused.  Some-  were  lodged  in  the  gaol  of  Hertzog, 
and  all  forced  to  find  bail,  even  in  the  absence  of  accusers 
and  witnesses,  and  without  having  committed  a  wrong. 

The  people  ask  in  their  letter,  "  If  this  is  law,  who  is 
safe,  and  where  Avill  it  end  ?  The  feelings  of  the  whole 
district  have  been  outraged  by  this  last  act,  and  it  is  a 
wonder  that  some  violence  was  not  committed  under  the 
excitement  of  the  moment." 

The  writers  of  the  letter  go  on  to  state — 

"We  further  complain  also  of  the  severity  of  Mr.  Bowker's  decisions, 
as  manifest  in  the  case  of  the  Buxton  Gonas  (which  mcurred  his  Excel- 
lency's displeasure)  and  as  in  the  case  of  two  lads,  Caspar  and  Sias  Suy- 
man,  who  raced  and  wounded  a  buck  on  a  Sunday,  but  which  was 
eventually  killed  by  two  other  men  ;  the  Suymans,  the  two  lads,  were 
fined  seven  pounds  ten  shillings  each ;  fifteen  pounds,  besides  law  ex- 
penses !  the  other  two  escaped  punishment  altogether,  though  quite  as 
guilty  as  the  Sujanans,  or  more  so.  While  Mr.  Bowker  has  stretched 
the  law  to  its  utmost  rigour  in  this  case,  yet  he  hunself  can  spend  the 
Sabbath  in  burning  huts,  which  could  have  been  done  on  any  other  day. 
What  an  example  to  set  to  the  people  over  whom  he  presides  as  magis 
trate — not  to  mention  the  inclemency  of  the  weather  to  which  these 
people  were  exposed,  and  the  agitation  kept  up  on  the  Lord's-day. 

"  From  these  and  similar  cases,  a  deep  feeling  and  want  of  con- 
tidence  have  been  engendered  in  the  minds  of  the  pcoi^le,  that  they 
camiot  get  even  justice  at  the  hands  of  Mr.  Bowker." 


]<.)•:>  PEOrLK's  APPKAT,  VOU   INVF.STIGATION. 

The  letter  concludes  willi  the  following  paragraph  :  — 

"  Wc,  her  ^lajcsty's  loyal  subjects,  for  the  sake  of  ourselves  and 
families,  the  happiness  and  prosperity  of  the  settlement,  respect  for 
its  laws  and  good  order,  do  humbly  pray  his  Excellency  the  Go- 
vernor, as  the  representative  of  her  Majesty  our  gracious  Queen,  that 
he  be  pleased  to  appoint  the  Rev.  11.  Caldcrwood  magistrate  and 
civil  commissioner  of  Victoria,  \\ith  or  -without  any  other  gentleman 
which  his  Excellency  may  appomt,  to  make  a  true  investigation  into 
our  allegations  of  the  state  of  the  Kat  River,  herein  referred  to.  "NVe 
take  the  liberty  of  naming  Mr.  C,  as  he  has  lived  on  the  settlement, 
and  is  acquainted  with  some  of  us ;  and  we  ha^-e  confidence  in  his 
impartiality  and  judgment. 

"  We  further  pray,  that  the  case  between  the  Superintendent  Cobb 
and  the  Blinkwater,  alias  Tidmanton  people,  the  former  sending  the 
cattle  of  the  latter  from  the  commonage  to  the  poimd  at  Fort  Beau- 
fort, or  making  them  pay  in  money,  or  cattle^  for  their  release  at  the 
post,  may  also  be  included  tn  the  commission." 

The  above  letter  from  the  people  was  accompanied  by 
another  from  our  Missionaries,  Messrs.  Eead,  in  which, 
after  stating  that  they  acquiesce  in  the  views  expressed  by 
the  people,  justly  remark — 

"  We  respectfully  submit,  that  it  is  desirable  that  among  her 
Majesty's  subjects,  and  especially  a  people  ui  such  a  state  of  ci\'iliza- 
tion  as  the  people  of  this  settlement  are,  the  laws  be  mildly  and 
justly  administered,  so  as  to  inspire  confidence  in  the  servants  of 
Government  and  the  objects  of  law. 

"  It  is  indeed  a  pity  that  constant  excitement  should  be  kept  up 
among  the  people,  by  such  tilings  as  hiring  out  of  the  lands  to  Fin- 
goes  (case  of  Van  Rooyen  brought  under  his  Excellency's  notice 
some  months  ago),  the  impounding  of  the  people's  cattle  at  Tidman- 
ton, by  Superintendent  Cobb,  from  the  grazmg  ground,  burning 
houses  the  property  of  her  Majesty's  peaceable  subjects,  as  well  as 
the  houses  of  the  servants  of  the  erf-holders,  these  being  themselves 
subjects,  and  the  administering  the  laws  with  excessive  severity.  As 
most  of  the  people  have  long  been  known,  and  in  time  of  war  served 
iinder  his  Excellency,  they  believe  that  his  Excellency  cannot  be 
acquainted  with  the  grievances  and  sufferings,  or  he  would  give  them 
instant  redress.  And  we  are  happy  that,  from  circumstances  that 
have  recently  come  under  our  observation,  we  can  encourage  them  to 
hope  that  justice  will  be  done  them. 


LETTER  FROM  THE  GOVERNMENT.  193 

"We  also  perfectly  concur  in  the  choice  the  people  have  made  of 
the  Rev.  H.  Calderwood,  Civil  Commissioner  of  Alice,  with  any 
other  gentleman  his  Excellency  may  tliink  proper  to  appoint." 

In  reply  to  these  various  communications,  partly  from 
myself  to  the  Governor,  as  also  from  the  people  and 
Messrs.  Eead,  the  following  letter  was  addressed  to  the 
Rev.  W.  Thompson,  Cape  Town,  from  the  Colonial  Secre- 
tary, John  Montagu,  Esq.,  and  dated 

"  Colonial  Office,  llth  Sept.  1850. 
"  Sir, 

"  The  Rev.  Mr.  Freeman,  of  the  London  Missionary  Society, 
before  his  departure  from  this  colony  addressed  to  his  Excellency, 
the  Governor,  two  letters  dated  the  6th  and  8th  July  last,  calling  his 
Excellency's  attention  to  several  matters  comiected  -with  the  Stock- 
enstrom  or  Kat  River  settlement,  together  with  the  proceedmgs  of 
Mr.  Bowker,  resident  magistrate  of  that  district,  viz.,  the  manner  of 
removing  the  unauthorized  squatters  from  the  Kat  River,  the  fines 
inflicted  by  the  magistrate  in  several  cases  brought  before  him,  the 
proposed  dismissal  of  Eield- Cornet,  &c.  &c. 

"I  am  dii-ccted  to  acquaint  you,  as  Mr.  Freeman's  successor,  that 
the  Governor  appointed  the  Rev.  H.  Calderwood,  and  Charles 
BrowTilee,  Esq.,  to  examine  into  and  report  on  all  the  above,  as  well 
as  other  complaints  arising  out  of  the  Kat  River. 

"And  from  the  full  investigation  made  on  the  spot,  it  appeared 
that  Mr.  Bowker,  although  not  chargeable  Avith  any  intentional  mis- 
conduct, had  in  a  variety  of  cases  displayed  a  want  of  judgment,  and 
of  official  knowledge,  which  had  betrayed  him  into  grave  errors. 

"  It  is  unnecessary  to  go  further  into  details,  as  Mr.  Bowker  has 
tendered  his  resignation,  which  the  Governor  has  accepted,  and  an 
officer  of  tried  ability  has  been  appointed  in  his  stead. 

"With  regard  to  Field-Cornet  Botha,  it  appears  that,  although 
personally  exculpated  from  the  serious  charge  of  hiring  out  the 
common  lands,  his  son,  in  connection  with  a  person  of  bad  character, 
was  proved  to  have  done  this.  The  replies  of  himself,  whilst  under 
examination,  evinced  so  much  absence  of  openness  and  candour,  that 
the  Commissioners  expressed  their  marked  disapprobation  of  his  con- 
duct. Although  so  far  unsatisfactory,  the  Governor  has  been 
pleased  to  retain  him  in  office,  takii\g  care,  however,  to  warn  him  in 
future  to  pay  the  strictest  attention  to  the  duties  thereof,  and  the 
instructions  of  the  superior  officers. 

"  With  regard  to  the  other  causes  of  comi^laint,  his  Excellency 

o 


194  KAT  EIVER  HOTTENTOTS. 

continues  to  take  such  steps  as  appear  the  best  for  removing  any 
grounds  for  futhcr  dissatisfaction,  and  for  redressing  past  grievances. 
"  I  have  the  honour  to  be,  Sir, 

"  Yo\u-  most  obedient  servant, 

"JOHN  MONTAGU." 

The  following  sketch,  from  the  pen  of  an  intelligent  cor- 
respondent in  the  colony,  and  lately  come  to  hand,  pre- 
sents so  clear,  forcible,  and  yet  condensed  a  view  of  the  case 
of  the  Hottentots  of  the  Kat  Kiver,  that  even  at  the  risk  of 
repeating  some  of  the  facts  already  stated,  I  insert  it  here, 
anxious  as  I  feel  to  secure  all  the  attention  to  this  grave 
subject  which  the  humane  and  thoughtful  reader  will  not, 
I  am  persi;aded,  withhold: — 

"  The  early  years  of  the  settlement  were  those  of  privation  and 
hardship ;  but  the  prospect  of  gaining  an  honourable  livelihood  for 
themselves  and  families  fostered  hope  and  nerved  to  exertion  xaitH 
the  object  was  attained.  Then  came  the  hour  of  trial — the  desolating 
war  of  1835  broke  with  all  its  force  on  the  new  settlement,  and  the 
Hottentots  of  the  Kat  River,  called  to  the  defence  of  the  colony,  by 
their  loyalty  and  gallant  bearing  earned  for  themselves  the  high  com- 
mendation of  Sir  Benjamin  D'Urban  and  Sir  Hany  Smith ;  but  it 
was  at  the  expense  of  all  improvement,  material,  intellectual,  social, 
and  moral.  War  was  to  them  the  greatest  of  calamities — it  had  been 
entered  upon  from  necessity,  and  had  tliro%\'n  them  back  many  years 
in  their  onward  career.  Minds  less  elastic,  and  industiy  less  perse- 
vering,would  have  given  way  before  the  discouragement  it  occasioned. 
Scarcely  had  the  poor  people  recovered  from  its  effects,  when  the 
Kaffir  war  of  1846  called  them  once  again  from  theii-  peaceful  homes 
to  the  warlike  operations  of  the  field.  It  was  ■nith  no  small  degree 
of  reluctance  that  the  Hottentots  of  Kat  River  permitted  themselves 
to  be  enrolled  as  a  burgher  force  to  fight  over  agaia  the  battle  of  the 
colony  vrith  an  exasperated  and  powerful  foe.  Under  the  able  ge- 
neralship of  Sir  Andiies  Stockenstrom,  they  again  entered  Kaffirland, 
"where,  by  their  indomitable  courage,  they  fully  sustained  their  former 
reputation,  and  won  the  confidence  and  applause  of  all  parties,  civil 
and  military. 

"  As  the  able-bodied  men  of  the  settlement  were  incorporated  for 
military-  purposes  with  the  army,  the  colonial  Government  promised 
rations  to  the  families  they  had  left  behind,  than  which  nothing  could 
have  been  more  jUst;  but  it  would  seem  as  if  afterwards  it  was  found 


KAT  RIVER  HOTTENTOTS.  195 

convement  for  tliem  to  forget  their  obligations,  and  to  ignore  their 
own  promises  ;  and  in  addition  to  this  grievous  wrong  from  violated 
faith,  the  Hottentots  of  Kat  River  found  themselves,  at  the  close  of 
the  war,  once  more  reduced  to  poverty ;  their  homesteads  in  ruin ; 
their  lands,  after  thirteen  months'  absence  of  those  who  woiild  have 
cultivated  them,  fast  retui-ning  to  the  waste  from  which  they  had 
been  originally  recovered  ;  their  cattle  gone  ;  their  families — here  we 
stop,  it  is  not  difficult  to  imagme  how  and  to  what  extent  they  would 
suffer  from  the  absence  of  husbands,  fathers,  and  elder  brothers, — in 
short  ruin  in  all  its  forms  was  an  ever-present  spectacle.  Even  this 
state  of  things,  with  its  accumulated  evils,  might  have  been  remedied 
had  a  fair  opportunity  been  afforded  to  the  settlers, 

"  Soon  after  the  return  of  these  brave  men  to  their  desolated  valley, 
nmety  saw-pits  were  at  work,  and  the  persevering  industry  of  the 
Hottentots  promised  in  clue  time  to  restore  all,  but  the  slain,  of  what 
they  Ivid  lost.  Surely  this  commendable  activity  was  deserving  of 
encouragement  from  a  paternal  government.  How  was  it  met?  You 
know  the  sequel — a  tax  of  six  shillings  a  load  was  then  laid  on  the 
\\'ood  brought  out  of  what  the  Hottentots  had  been  hitherto  accus- 
tomed to  consider  their  own  forests,  and  this  impost  crushed  the 
rising  energy  of  the  settlement.  Nor  was  this  all :  a  Civil  Commis- 
sion was  appointed  to  superintend  and  report  on  the  Kat  River,  the 
result  of  whose  labours  is  embodied  in  a  Report,  bearmg  date  6th 
October,  1847,  and  signed  'T.  J.  Biddulph.'  This  was  beyond  human 
endurance  ;  its  shameless  disregard  to  truth,  its  covert  insinuations, 
its  evident  marks  of  having  been  concocted  by  the  parties  by  whom 
the  appouatment  had  been  made,  to  serve  a  political  purpose,  roused 
the  indignation  of  the  most  respectable  portion  of  the  public  press, 
and  called  forth  a  most  satisfactory  reply  from  the  much  injui-ed  in- 
habitants of  the  settlement.  The  Report  was  sho\vn  to  be  utterly  un- 
worthy of  public  confidence,  although  published  under  the  name  of 
T.  J.  Eiddulph,  and  by  the  command  of  a  High  Commissioner,  Sir 
Henry  Pottinger  ;  it  was  adding  insult  to  injury,  and  left  a  deep  im- 
pression on  the  minds  of  the  people. 

"While  smarting  under  the  sense  of  unmerited  ill-usage  the  present 
Kaffir  war  broke  out,  and  the  Hottentots  of  the  Kat  River,  like  the 
colonists  generally,  whether  Dutch  or  English,  declined  to  come  to 
the  aid  of  Government,  on  the  ground  that  their  presence  was  re- 
quired to  defend  their  own  property,  their  homes,  and  all  that  they 
held  dear  to  themselves  upon  earth. 

"This  was  a  false  step,  proceeding  more  from  ignorance  than  dis- 
affection, and  yet  not  enth-ely  free  from  the  latter,  arising  fi-om  the 
remembrance  of  their  treatment  during  the  past  war.     If  the  conduct 


196  KAT  RIVER  HOTl'ENTOTS.  i 

of  the  farmers,  ay,  and  of  townspeople  too,  who  acted  on  the  same 
narrow-minded  selfish  policy,  admits  of  extenuation,  so  does  that  of 
the  bur£;hers  of  Kat  River.  The  fact  is,  a  spu-it  of  infatuation  came 
over  all  classes  of  the  community,  and  over  none  more  so  than  over 
that  portion  of  it  which  has  been  loudest  in  its  abuse  of  Kat  E,iver. 
Those  devoted  men,  the  Eev.  Messrs.  AY.  R.  Thomson,  James  Read, 
sen.,  and  James  Read,  jun.,  used  all  theu-  influence  to  bring  the 
misguided  people  under  their  care  to  a  proper  sense  of  their  duty 
d\iring  the  present  crisis,  and  to  a  certain  extent  they  were  successful. 
The  colony  owes  them  much  for  their  self-denying  patriotic  exertions." 


A    KAFFIR    CHIKK    AND    HIS    WIFE. 


CHAPTEK    IX. 
THE  KAFFIR  HISTORY. 

THE    KAFFIR    RACE THE     NEW    POLICY     INTRODUCED    BY     EARL    GREY 

RESPECTING    BRITISH    INTERCOURSE  WITH    THE   KAFFIR    RACE THE 

AMAKOSjE,    or    KAFFIRS    ADJACENT    TO    THE    CAPE    COLONY THEIR 

WARS    WITH     THE     CAPE     COLONY THE     KAFFIR     CHIEF    MACOMO'S 

DAUGHTER INFLUENCE   OF   BRITISH   POLICY    IN   KAFFIRLAND   UPON 

THE  INTERIOR  OF  SOUTH  AFRICA. 

The  present  Kaffir  war  gives  fresh  importance  to  Cape 
Kaffir  history,  and  a  due  estimate  of  that  history  is  indis- 
pensable to  forming  a  correct  judgment  on  the  character  of 
the  war,  as  well  as  on  the  policy  fit  to  be  adopted  by  Eng- 
land towards  the  great  African  family,  of  which  the  Kaffirs, 
long  connected  with  the  Cape,  are  but  a  small  fraction. 

Deeply  interesting  as  the  condition  of  the  Hottentots, 
both  within  and  beyond  the  Cape  colony,  will  ever  be  to  a 
right  feeling  mind,  their  limited  numbers  greatly  lessen 
their  importance  when  compared  with  the  Kaffir  race. 
Including  the  Griquas,  the  Corannas,  the  Namaquas,  the 
Bushmen,  and  the  remoter  families  speaking  the  Hotten- 
tot language,  met  with  of  late  years,  far  north  of  Lattakoo, 
their  whole  population  does  not  exceed  150,000  souls.  On 
the  contrary,  the  Kaffir  family,  already  well  known  to  us, 
cannot  be  fewer  than  two  millions  in  number.  Spread 
from  the  eastern  frontier  of  the  Cape  colony  to  beyond 
Delagoa  Bay,  and  then  across  the  whole  continent,  without 


1  09.  KAFFIR  POPULATION. 

break,  to  the  Atlantic,  in  latitude  '20",  and  the  countiy  of 
the  Daniaras,  who  alone  are  40,000  in  number,  towards 
Walvisch  Bay,  this  family  of  Africans  are  in  frequent  inter- 
course with  our  people  of  various  classes.  Thirty-six  years 
ago  the  Rev.  John  Campbell  first  ascertained  their  im- 
portance in  point  of  numbers,  and  their  kindly  disposi- 
tions. Dr.  Philip  afterward  established  decisively  the 
extent  of  their  language.  Mr.  Moffatt,  and  recently  Dr. 
Livingston,  have  opened  their  remoter  tribes  to  a  con- 
nection with  the  Bechuana  Country,  under  circumstances 
of  tlie  extremest  interest,  both  in  a  political  and  religious 
point  of  view.  A  German  Missionary  Society  has  for  six 
years  pursued  its  labours  from  a  point  of  the  Atlantic 
towards  the  interesting  discoveiy  by  Dr.  Livingston,  of  a 
fresh  Avater  lake,  in  lat.  20°  S.,  long.  24°  E.,  so  as  to  lay  the 
safest  foundation  for  efforts  that  cannot  fail  of  having  the 
best  effects.  In  his  work,  published  in  1828,  Dr.  Philip 
had  already  recorded  the  connection  to  be  opened  from 
that  point,  Walvisch  Bay,  and  Delagoa  Bay,  by  means  of 
the  common  language  of  the  tribes.*  According  to  the 
testimony  of  the  German  Missionaries,  populous  Kaffir 
tribes,  considerably  advanced  in  industrious  habits,  occupy 
the  west  countiy,  after  passing  100  miles  from  the  Atlantic 
towards  the  New  Lake  ;  and  according  to  the  obsei'vations 
of  Dr.  Livingston  and  his  party,  "a  very  numerous"  popu- 
lation occupies  the  country  300  miles  east  of  the  Lake. 
Generally  they  received  the  travellers  well. 

Besides  these  newly-discovered  Kaffir  tribes,  the  Ama- 
kosfe,  the  people  adjacent  to  the  Cape  colony,  and  the 
Tambookies,  both  extensively  engaged  in  the  present  war, 
are  more  than  250,000  souls  ;  the  Amapondas,  and  other 
tribes  to  Natal,  150,000  ;  the  Zoolas,  and  others  in  Natal, 
100,000  ;  the  independent  Zoolas,  at  least  500,000  ;  the 
Bechuanas,  Mantatees,  Basutoos,  and  other  tribes  between 
Lattakoo  and  Natal,  300,000;  the  Matabele,  and  other 
tribes  from  the  Zoolas  to  the  Lake  tribes,  500,000 ;  which 
*  Researches,  vol.  ii.  p.  144. 


JURISDICTION  TO  THE  EQUATOR.  109 

conjectural  calculations  leave  200,000  for  those  and 
other  tribes,  east  and  west,  to  make  up  2,000,000  of  the 
Kaffir  race,  now  ivell  known  to  us. 

But  this  comparatively  dense  population  of  so  many 
Kaffir  tribes  is  far  less  important  than  their  intimate  rela- 
tions with  our  people. 

In  several  points.  Missionaries  have  led  the  way  to  these 
relations.  Everywhere,  except  in  one  very  remarkable 
case,  to  be  stated  presently,  they  have  hitherto  made  the 
most  favourable  impressions  on  these  tribes.  Everywhere 
they  are  now  earnestly  asked  for  by  them.  Traders  too, 
and  sportsmen,  and  men  of  science,  have  penetrated  far 
among  these  tribes.  Heretofore  the  agent  of  Government 
has  come  last.  An  extraordinary  movement  of  discon- 
tented Cape  colonists  has,  however,  led  to  new  views  in 
this  respect,  and  that  movement  has  covered  the  face  of 
South  Africa,  from  the  Vaal  Kiver  to  the  New  Lake,  with 
those  colonists — the  emigrant  Boers.  Now  the  relations  of 
those  various  classes  of  our  people  with  the  various  Kaffir 
tribes,  constitute  a  vast  means  of  extending  civilization 
throughout  Southern  Africa ;  and  they  have  recently  as- 
sumed a  character  altogether  unprecedented  since  the 
independence  of  the  American  colonies.  The  subject 
deserves  the  most  careful  examination,  seeing  that  in  the 
last  Cape  papers  laid  before  both  Houses  of  Parliament, 
there  are  documents  which  open  it  in  all  its  magnitude. 
The  Privy  Council  advised  her  Majesty,  only  a  few  months 
ago,  to  extend  the  legal  jurisdiction  of  the  Cape  colony  to 
the  equator — twenty-five  degrees  of  latitude  beyond  its 
present  limits,  through  a  prodigious  region  belonging  to 
Portugal.  This  is  not  all.  Earl  Grey  has  himself  origin- 
ated, and  worked  out  in  much  detail,  in  these  papers,  a 
policy  in  respect  to  these  remote  regions,  which  the  philan- 
thropists in  England  have  for  some  years  advocated  in 
vain.  This  is  the  policy  of  organizing  the  native  tribes 
into  federal  communities,  capable  of  protecting  themselves 
against  the  aggressions  of  white  men.     Possibly,  however. 


'200  CONFEDERACY  OF  NATIVE  CHIEFS. 

tills  may  be  arming  them  against  one  another,  and  possibly 
too  against  ourselves. 

A  more  serious  design  cannot  be  conceived  ;  but  it  must 
be  pursued  with  very  different  views  from  those  which 
influenced  the  Colonial  Office  at  the  time  of  its  conception 
in  November,  1850,  as  a  mere  arm  against  the  Boers. 

"  The  first  step  to  be  accomplished,"  said  Earl  Grey, 
••  is  to  induce  some  of  the  chiefs  of  the  tribes  near  the 
newly-discovered  lake,  in  lat.  20°  S.,  to  establish  a  con- 
federacy, and  to  invite  the  residence  among  them  of  an 
officer,  to  be  appointed  by  the  Governor  of  the  Cape.  If 
an  able  and  active  officer,  such  as  the  commandant  of  Kaf- 
tVaria,  or  the  diplomatic  agent  in  Natal,  were  appointed,  he 
would  virtually,  through  the  chiefs,  direct  the  government 
of  the  confederacy,  and,  with  the  assistance  of  the  Mis- 
sionaries, gradually  extend  its  influence,  and  establish  a 
more  regular  and  settled  government.  The  only  expense 
to  be  incurred  in  the  fii'St  instance,  would  be  the  salary  of 
the  resident,  and  the  cost  of  a  small  armed  force  on  the 
model  of  the  Kaffir  police,  by  which  the  authority  of  the 
confederated  chiefs,  that  is  in  their  name,  of  the  resident, 
must  be  maintained.  This  expenditure  might  be  met  by 
requiring  every  man  of  the  associated  tribes  to  pay,  either 
in  money  or  produce,  such  as  cattle,  corn,  ivory,  gum,  &c., 
an  annual  tax,  like  that  imposed  on  the  Zoolas  at  Natal. 

"  If  the  first  step  could  be  accomplished,  and  if  security 
for  person  and  property,  under  a  government  nominally  of 
native  chiefs,  but  really  directed  by  an  European  resident, 
of  the  necessary  qualifications,  could  be  established  in  one 
district,  however  small,  I  feel  persuaded  that,  with  the 
assistance  of  the  Missionaries,  and  the  civilizing  influence 
of  commerce,  the  system  thus  commenced  would,  with 
judicious  management,  speedily  extend  itself,  as  the  neigh- 
houring  tribes  would  see  the  advantage  of  belonging  to  the 
confederacy,  and  ivould  desire  to  be  added  to  it  on  equal  terms. 

"  The  proposal  to  extend  the  statute  6  &  7  Wm.  IV.  to 
the  equator,  has  been  recommended  by  the  Privy  Council ; 


PROTECTION  OF  NATIVES.  201 

and  I  hope  to  be  able,  in  the  next  session  of  Parliament, 
to  introduce  a  bill  for  this  purpose." 

Tluis  Earl  Grey  erected  a  vast  social  edifice  for  the  inte- 
rior, upon  the  foundation  of  a  supposed  success  in  Kaffraria. 
But  that  success  having  been  subverted  by  the  Kaffir  war, 
other  means  must  be  devised  for  the  attainment  of  this 
great  object, — South  African  civilization.  Indeed,  when 
the  organization  of  Kaffirland  and  Natal  was  relied  upon 
as  a  precedent  for  the  voluntary  confederacy,  to  be  proposed 
to  the  New  Lake  chiefs,  it  was  forgotten  that  the  organiza- 
tion of  British  Kaffraria  was  the  result  of  several  tears,  and 
the  fruit  of  the  most  stringent  coercion;  and  that  the  or- 
ganization of  Natal  depended  on  the  assent  of  100,000 
black  refugees,  whose  great  chiefs  would  certainly  be  no 
parties  to  it. 

The  most  praiseworthy  object,  therefore,  of  the  Govern- 
ment, to  protect  the  natives  of  South  Africa  from  white  aggres- 
sion, as  here  aimed  at  by  the  Secretary  of  State,  must  rest 
on  other  bases  ;  and  the  history  of  the  Cape  Kaffirs,  which, 
as  read  by  Earl  Grey,  fails  to  justify  the  new  scheme  at 
Lake  Ngami,  may  be  found,  by  a  wiser  interpretation, 
replete  with  better  lessons  to  the  same  end. 

The  earliest  recorded  intercourse  of  the  Cape  colony 
with  the  Kaffirs,  is  in  1702.  At  this  period,  a  body  of 
colonists  having  killed  many  of  the  natives,  without  pro- 
vocation, the  authorities,  in  reporting  the  case  to  Holland, 
state  that,  "  the  business  being  of  vast  consequence  to  the 
colony,  on  account  of  the  numbers  implicated,  it  ought  to 
be  passed  over,  with  the  intention  to  take  good  care  that  no 
further  opportunity  were  given  to  commit  such  acts." 
The  good  care  was  never  taken  ;  and  similar  bad  acts  were 
continued  unrepressed  for  a  century,  when  a  more  humane 
spirit  prevailed,  towards  the  end  of  the  Dutch  rule  in 
South  Africa.  But  the  error  of  feebly  reproving  the  abuses 
of  intercourse  with  the  Kaffirs  was  even  then  followed  by 
another  error  quite  as  mischievous,  namely,  tliat  of  attempt- 
ing to  stop  all  intercourse  with  them,  in  order  to  suppress 


202  MISSIONS  AMONG  KAFFIRS. 

its  abuses.  The  Kaffir  chiefs  pei*fectly  appreciated  th* 
advantages  to  be  gained  from  the  whites  ;  they  insisted  thac 
peace  could  not  be  kept  between  neighboui's  who  did  not 
niet't  fiiniiliarly ;  and  they  remonstrated  warmly  against 
the  prohibition  of  commmiication  with  the  borderers. 
That  prohibition  was  at  length  given  up  by  the  advice  of 
commissioners  of  inquiiy,  sent  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
in  18-^3. 

Dr.  Vandcrkemp  founded  the  first  Mission,  in  1799, 
among  the  Kaffirs,  which  their  temporary  jealousy  of  the 
English  caused  to  be  abandoned ;  but  the  remarkable 
chai'acter  of  that  eminent  man  was  July  estimated  by  them  ; 
and  along  with  the  more  recent  impressions  made  on  their 
minds  by  the  elder  John  Williams,  founder  of  the  second 
Kaffir  Mission,  led  to  the  subsequent  zealous  reception  of 
Missionaries  by  all  the  Kaffir  tribes.  Of  the  Christian  pro- 
gi*ess  of  many  individual  Kaffirs  at  the  respective  Institu- 
tions, notwithstanding  their  frequent  disturbance  by  wars 
with  the  colony,  there  is  no  doubt ;  and  the  example  of  the 
chief  Tzatzoe,  originally  taught  at  Bethelsdoi-p,  and  brought 
up  in  connexion  wdtli  the  London  Missionary  Society,  and 
Kama,  brought  up  in  connexion  with  the  Wesleyans,  both 
admirable  Christian  men,  favoured  by  circumstances,  and 
by  strong  individual  aptitude,  show  what  might  have  been 
produced  upon  the  minds  of  the  leading  Kaffirs  in  general, 
if  their  people  had  been  treated  with  common  consideration 
and  justice  by  the  British  Government. 

When  we  received  the  Cape  colony  from  the  Dutch,  in 
1795,  and  again  in  1806,  a  large  portion  of  the  Kaffirs  had 
advanced,  with  a  probably  legal  title,  far  beyond  the  bound- 
aries set  up  by  om-  j)redecessors  as  the  proper  line  of 
separation  between  them  and  the  colonists ;  and  so  late  as 
in  1811  many  of  the  natives  were  scattered  as  useful  herds- 
men, and  acceptably  to  the  farmers,  so  far  as  towards 
Swellendam.  This  fact  is  undisputed ;  and  it  is  equally 
certain  that  their  chiefs  at  that  time,  forty  years  ago, 
earnestly  and  sincerely  solicited  instruction  from  our  Mis- 


COMMISSION  OF  INQUIRY.  203 

sionaries  for  their  young  people.  The  prejudices  of  the 
Government,  much  more  than  any  ill-will  on  the  part  of  the 
colonists,  were  opposed  to  their  solicitations  being  granted  ; 
and  the  expense  and  bad  effects  of  a  frontier  war  to  expel 
them  from  a  countiy  they  called  their  own,  were  delibe- 
rately preferred  to  the  employment  of  proper  means  of 
civilizing  them  in  intimate  connexion  with  us.  This 
first  great  Kafl&r  war,  begun  in  1811,  cost  more  money 
than  would  have  bought  the  land  contended  for.  Its 
monstrous  injustice  was  exceeded  by  its  gross  impolicy. 

After  we  had  driven  them  into  the  countiy  we  called 
Kaffirland,  we  interposed  so  indiscreetly  in  disputes  be- 
tween the  tribes,  and  we  retaliated  so  violently  for  occa- 
sional cattle-stealing,  as  to  rouse  a  new  spirit  of  resistance, 
and  bring  on  a  second,  dangerous  Kaffir  war,  that  of  1819. 

Its  result  in  our  favour  led  to  further  encroachments 
on  their  territory,  and  to  a  revival  of  the  Dutch  prohibition 
of  intercourse  between  them  and  the  colonists,  with  great 
jealousy  of  all  Missionaries  ;  when,  in  1823,  the  appoint- 
ment of  a  commission  of  solemn  inquiry  into  every  ques- 
tion affecting  the  natives  of  South  Africa,  promised  the 
redress  of  grievances  on  all  sides. 

The  Commissioners  soon  removed  the  restrictions  on 
intercourse  with  the  Kaffirs.  The  eastern  colonists,  who 
were  much  increased  in  number  by  a  British  emigration 
in  1820,  earnestly  demanded  the  advantages  of  trading 
beyond  the  boundary,  and  of  employing  Kaffirs  as  farm- 
sei-vants.  Both  points  were  conceded,  besides  the  removal 
of  all  difficulties  in  the  way  of  Missionaiy  Institutions. 
The  Commissioners  further  advised,  that  political  agents 
should  be  appointed  in  Kaffirland,  to  aid  the  chiefs  in 
carrying  on  satisfactorily  the  new  relations  opening  between 
them  and  the  colony ;  and  that  fairs  should  be  established 
on  the  borders,  to  facilitate  the  interchange  of  commodities 
on  both  sides.  They  strongly  condemned  the  old  .system  of 
Commandos,  or  armed  expeditions  of  colonists,  to  recover 
stolen  cattle ;  of  military  ^a^roZs,  which  harassed  tlie  natives 


•^04  CONQUEST  OF  KAFFIRLAND. 

I'lir  more  than  they  protected  the  colonists  ;  and  of  reprisals, 
wliich  too  often  made  the  innocent  answerable  for  the  guilty, 
when  property  was  lost.  The  Commissioners  were  sup- 
ported by  all  parties  in  their  views  on  these  three  points 
of  border  jjolice.  They  also  advised  that  a  lieutenant- 
governor  should  reside  on  the  Kaffir  frontier  to  superintend 
the  great  change  that  was  obviously  in  progress. 

For  more  than  ten  years  ^,11  these  recommendations  as 
to  the  border  police  and  a  Kaffir  agency,  were  neglected. 
An  accumulation  of  exasperating  disputes  therefore  grew 
up,  until  more  territory  was  taken  from  the  Kaffirs  in 
18:29  and  in  1833,  under  circumstances  of  extreme  aggra- 
vation, which  produced  the  third  Kaffir  war  of  1834-5. 

This  war  closed  with  the  conquest  of  Kaffirland  by  us, 
and  by  the  declai'ation  of  the  portion  west  of  the  river  Kei, 
with  the  inhabitants,  being  British,  and  of  their  being 
subjected  to  British  criminal  law.  This  new  British 
people  was  to  have  an  ample  provision  of  "  ministers  of 
religion,  and  other  teachers,"'  to  be  furnished  by  the  State, 
and  the  chiefs  were  to  act  as  magistrates  if  required,  but 
British-born  magistrates  were  also  to  be  distributed  among 
them. 

The  system  o{  coercion  thus  set  up  is  called  the  D'Urhan 
system,  from  the  Governor  who  formed  it,  after  conquering 
the  Kaffirs,  and  who  required  them  to  make  a  treaty  with 
him  for  that  purpose.  The  date  of  the  treaty  was  the 
17th  of  September,  1835.  This  D'Urban  system  was 
rescinded  by  orders  from  England,  on  the  2nd  of  February, 
1837.  In  the  meauAvhile  it  did  not  tranquillise  the  Kaffirs, 
or  secure  the  colony;  a  great  Kaffir  war  was  imminent, 
pending  its  being  in  force,  and  the  great  emigration  of 
the  Boers  to  the  interior,  which  it  would  have  prevented  if 
effectual,  took  place  notwithstanding  its  influence.  It  is 
indeed  notorious,  that  the  frontier  was  in  extreme  danger 
under  the  D'Urban  system,  as  its  author  knew  well ;  and 
that  notice  of  the  disapproval  of  it  in  England  saved  the 
Cape  colony  from  a  frontier  explosion.     But  although  the 


THE  GLENELG  SYSTEM.  205 

Boers  were  disappointed  at  the  D'Urban  treaty  of  18B5, 
other  colonists  were  deeply  interested  in  maintaining  it, 
inasmvich  as  they  steadily  sought  to  crush  the  Kaffirs,  and 
large  grants  of  land  were  promised  to  them  in  the  con- 
quered province  ;  which  facts  are  the  keys  to  much  of  the 
violent  language  used  on  the  D'Urban  system  being  re- 
scinded. 

Its  abolition,  and  the  restoration  of  the  country  to  the 
Kaffirs,  on  the  ground  of  the  conquest  being  unjust,  were 
the  most  remarkable  events  that  ever  occurred  between  us 
and  this  people.  Out  of  these  events  grew  other  treaties, 
which  constitute  the  Glenelg  or  Stockenstrom  system,  in 
contradistinction  to  the  system  founded  on  Sir  Benjamin 
D'Urban's  treaty. 

This  new  system  was  the  result  of  a  long  inquiry  before 
a  Committee  of  the  House  of  Commons.  That  Committee 
was  appointed  in  1834,  in  order  to  advocate  the  claims  of 
the  aborigines  of  the  colonies  to  more  humane  treatment 
than  was  usual.  It  recommended  the  change  of  policy 
effected  by  the  Kaffir  treaties  of  1837. 

The  essential  distinctions  between  the  two  systems  is, 
that  the  D'Urban  system  rests  on  the  coercion  and 
conquest  of  the  natives, — the  Glenelg  system,  on  native 
independence.  Both  imposed  certain  rules  of  a  similar 
character  upon  the  Kaffirs,  respecting  the  police  of  the 
border,  and  they  differed  mainly  in  the  estimates  their 
supporters  formed  of  the  native  character  and  rights.  Ex- 
cepting on  some  points  of  detail,  which  the  Kaffirs  changed 
in  compliance  with  the  wishes  of  our  governor  Sir  G.  Napier, 
and  Sir  P.  Maitland,  the  Glenelg  system  was  in  force  until 
1845,  when  its  efficacy  was  formally  inquired  into  by  the 
Cape  Legislative  Council;  and  its  success  was  powerfully 
insisted  upon,  without  any  ojiposition  in  that  body. 

That  success  was  illustrated  in  a  remarkable  manner,  in 
regard  to  caUle-stealinr), — a  subject  of  vital  importance  to  a 
pastoral  colony,  and  a  perfect  touchstone  of  the  social 
progressof2)«s<orrtZ  barbarians  like  the  Kaffirs. 


206  KAKKIU  WAK  OK   184G. 

It  was  shown  then,  that  cluiing  six  years,  viz.  from  1839  to 
1 S44.  there  was  a  most  material  reduction  under  the  treaties, 
in  the  numher  of  cattle  stolen  hy  the  Kaffirs;  and  also  a 
material  increase  in  tlie  number  of  the  stolen  cattle  restored 
hy  the  Kaffirs  to  the  owners. 

It  is  further  known,  upon  the  hest  evidence,  that  prior  to 
the  Glenelg  treaties,  the  usual  amount  of  cattle  recovered  was 
onlv  one-sixth  to  one-tenth  of  the  number  stolen  ;  whereas 
the  recoveries  under  the  treaties  were  one-half  to  one-third 
during  nine  years.  Not  only,  too,  did  the  Kaffirs  thus  prove 
themselves  anxious  to  restore  stolen  cattle,  and  make  the 
compensation  due,  but  it  is  certain  that  "  more  acts  of 
plunder  wei'e  put  to  their  account,  than  they  were  guilty  of." 
This  is  the  positive  testimony  of  the  most  impartial  and 
highest  authority  at  the  Cape. 

Other  circumstances  prove  the  good  faith  of  the  Kaffirs 
respecting  the  treaties  of  1837.  They  often  gave  up 
offenders  to  justice,  and  acquiesced  in  their  punishment 
under  a  sense  of  duty.  They  also,  under  favourable  cir- 
cumstances, have  kept  the  frontier  free  from  marauding,  to 
a  degree  quite  beyond  all  experience,  and  maintained  peace 
for  nine  years. 

Their  conduct  in  these  respects  was  formerly  adjudged 
to  he  praiseworthy  hy  the  legislature  of  the  Cape  colony, 
shortly  before  Sir  Peregrine  IMaitland  made  the  fourth  war 
against  the  Kaffirs  in  1840  ;  and  a  more  unjustifiable  resort 
to  the  dreadful  appeal  to  arms,  history  does  not  record. 

The  immediate  antecedents  to  thatwar  strongly  mai'k 
the  incapacity  of  the  Cape  Government  of  that  day,  to  meet 
the  difficulties  belonging  to  the  transition  of  a  barbarous 
people  to*civilization.  The  Governor's  ruling  idea  was,  that 
an  active  war-party  had  gi'own  up  in  Kaffirland  among  the 
younger  men.  He  had  no  cure  for  this  probable  evil,  but 
strengthening  their  hands  by  new  acts  of  injustice  on  the 
part  of  the  Colonial  Government;  and  then  to  make  war 
himself  on  the  Kaffir  natives  upon  the  first  shadow  of  a 
pretext  for  hostilities.     It  was  also  unquestionable,  that  a 


KAFFIR  CHIEFS  DESIRE  PEACE.  207 

war-party  existed  among  the  colonists,  and  the  Governor 
did  not  perceive  that  its  influence  must  be  increased  by  the 
indulgence  of  its  appetite  for  Kaffir  territory. 

An  important  counterpoise  to  both  of  these  war  parties 
is  mentioned  by  the  Governor  himself,  in  the  application  of 
two  powerful  Kaffir  chiefs,  before  the  war,  to  settle  in  the 
colony,  in  order  to  bide  in  peace  with  the  English.  Such 
an  amalgamation  was  of  all  things  to  be  desired,  and  would 
have  produced  the  happiest  effects  on  both  sides  of  the 
border.  It  ended  with  a  passing  mention  in  a  despatch  to 
England  ;  and  attracted  no  more  attention  at  home  than  it 
made  imj)ression  on  the  Governor. 

One  of  the  chiefs  thus  well  disposed  was  Macomo,  whose 
v.hole  grievous  case  stamps  indelible  dishonour  on  our 
administration  of  the  Kaffir  frontier,  from  long  before  his 
hard  expulsion  from  his  original  home,  a  quarter  of  a 
century  since,  to  the  day  of  his  daughter's  appeal  on  his 
behalf,  when  exiled  from  Kaffirland,  in  the  war  of  1846. 
This  last  most  painful  stoiy  is  preserved  by  Mrs.  Ward,  an 
English  officer's  wife,  who  was  with  our  army  when  the  event 
narrated  by  her  occurred.  That  lady  is  deeply  and  undis- 
guisedly  hostile  to  the  coloured  race ;  but  she  has  kept  a 
woman's  sympathising  record  of  an  act  the  most  condemna- 
tory of  wars  of  conquest  since  our  own  unhappy  Boadicea 
was  a  victim  of  one,  under  circumstances  more  brutal,  in- 
deed, but  not  a  hundredth  part  so  touching  as  those  of 
Macomo's  daughter. 

Ledyard's  praise  of  woman,  the  traveller's  friend  in  every 
barbarous  land,  is  deservedly  famous  ;  and  the  sweet  song 
addressed  by  Mungo  Park's  African  girls  to  the  "  poor  white 
man"  sheltered  by  their  hospitality,  might  well  be  sung, 
as  it  was  sung,  with  delight  in  British  palaces.  But  those 
charming  traits  of  humanity  are  the  merest  commonplace, 
when  compared  witli  this  heart-breaking  Kaffir  stoiy. 
They  justly  elevate  our  fellows  in  the  rudest  condition  ; 
but  this  stoiy  stamps  merited  reproach  upon  the  ill-con- 
sidered policy  of  a  great  civilized  nation. 


208  MACOMO'S  DAUGHTER. 

Mrs.  Ward  states  correctly,  that  the  young  gh'ls  in  Kaffir- 
land  are  brought  up  with  strict  notions  of  female  propriety. 
To  forfeit  their  reputation  is  to  entail  on  themselves  severe 
punishment,  and  on  their  families  perpetual  disgrace.  And 
one  of  these  young  girls,  "  the  beauty  of  Kaffirland,"  Ama- 
keya,  the  daughter  of  the  great  chief  Macomo,  is  the  heroine 
of  the  following  brief  narrative,  which  will  be  fitly  given  in 
the  words  of  Mrs.  Ward  herself ;  and  surely  among  "the 
wives  of  England"  there  cannot  be  wanting  some  able  and 
eager  to  vindicate  the  honour  of  their  countiy,  by  appealing 
to  the  highest  woman  in  the  land  to  stay  in  these  her  re- 
mote dominions  the  terrible  causes  of  these  most  pitiable 
exposures  of  our  common  humanity. 

"At  the  end  of  the  campaign,"  says  Mrs.  Ward,  "  Macomo,  when 
beaten,  was  to  be  removed,  with  all  his  people,  to  Algoa  Bay.  He 
had  opposed  the  war  from  policy  ;  but  when  once  the  ciy  was  raised, 
he  assumed  the  command,  being  general  of  the  Gaikas.  When  he 
surrendered,  he  used  every  means  to  remain  in  his  own  location.  His 
appeal  was  pathetic.  '  Here,'  said  he,  '  stretching  his  hand  over  the 
beautifid  territory',  my  father,  a  great  chief,  dwelt.  These  pastures 
were  crowded  with  cattle.  Here  I  have  lived  to  grow  old.  Here  my 
children  have  been  bom.  Let  me  die  in  peace  where  I  have  lived 
so  long.' 

"  His  entreaties  could  not  be  listened  to.  And  as  a  last  trial,  his 
daughter,  Amakeya,  the  beauty  of  Kaffirland,  made  her  way  to  the 
tent  of  Colonel  Campbell,  of  the  91st  Regiment,  who,  totally  unpre- 
pared for  her  appearance,  was  yet  more  astonished  at  the  sacrifice 
she  offered,  if  her  father's  sentence  of  banishment  might  be  rescinded. 
If  her  father  might  remain  in  his  ovm  land,  she  said,  she  would  be 
the  sacrifice  and  guarantee  of  his  future  good  faith  to  the  white  man. 
She  would  leave  her  ovm  people,  and  follow  Colonel  Campbell ;  his 
home  should  be  her  home ;  she  would  forsake  all,  and  dwell  with  him ! 

"  Amakeya  was  the  belle  of  the  camp  at  Fort  Hare  ;  and  no  doubt 
she  had  been  sufiiciently  reminded  of  her  charms  to  make  her  sensi- 
ble of  the  value  of  them.  She  made  her  strange  offer  in  all  the  pride 
and  consciousness  of  beauty.  With  her  finely  moulded  arms  folded 
before  her,  she  spoke  without  hesitation ;  for  she  was  guided  by 
motives  worthy  of  a  lofty  cause — motives  how  desecrated !  Poor 
Amakeya ! 

"  Those  motives  were  not  unappreciated  by  her  hearer,  who  had 


MEASUrjNG  LAND  FOR  A  FORT.  209 

every  consideration  for  her  ;  and  she  departed  with  her  father  on  his 
journey.  We  may  fancy  her  taking  a  last  look  at  the  green  plains 
where  her  childhood  had  passed  ;  and  finally  settling  down  among  a 
strange  people,  in  sight  of  the  '  great  waters.'  " — Mrs.  Ward's  "  Cape 
and  the  Caff  res."     12mo.      1851.     p.  202. 

Yet  this  chief,  thus  driven  into  exile,  after  a  life  of 
degrading  ill  usage  at  our  hands,  would  have  come  among 
us  with  good  will,  and  a  peace-maker ! 

An  act  still  more  impolitic  on  our  part  had  well  nigh 
forced  on  this  war  of  1846,  even  before  we  chose  to  begin 
it.  At  a  moment  of  great  excitement  on  the  subject  of 
territory,  and  of  our  encroachments,  the  Government  took 
formal  steps  towards  occupying  new  ground  for  a  fort  in 
Kaffirland.  The  paramount  chief  seemed  not  indisposed 
to  allow  this  on  certain  reasonable  conditions  ;  but  his 
councillors  disapproved  of  the  cession.  Nevertheless, 
without  more  consultation,  and  through  a  series  of  extra- 
ordinary mistakes,  indicating  our  habitual  carelessness  of 
Kaffir  rights,  we  persevered  in  surveying  the  land  under  a 
strong  military  party,  to  the  extreme  dissatisfaction  of  the 
Kaffirs.  The  Governor's  excuse  was,  that  he  did  not  know 
the  assent  of  the  chief  was  needed  iir  such  a  case.  For- 
tunately, the  frontier  authorities  were  prudent,  and  the 
Kaffirs  moderate,  so  that  hostilities  were  averted  on  this 
occasion,  Avhen  the  war  seemed  on  the  eve  of  breaking 
out — "  unprovoked,"  as  the  Lieutenant-governor  candidly 
declared,  "  by  any  act  of  the  Kaffir  natives."  He  adds, 
"  that  war  was  obviously  incited  by  rumours  wickedly 
circulated  by  persons  always  ready  to  do  the  work  of 
agitation." 

These  instigators  of  frontier  mischief  soon  succeeded  in 
their  "wicked"  work;  and  in  a  few  weeks  the  Governor 
proclaimed  war  against  the  Kaffirs  on  two  grounds : 
namely,  1st,  to  crush  the  war  party  in  Kaffirland  ;  and 
•2ndly,  to  compel  the  chiefs  to  punish  the  Kaffir  mur- 
derers of  a  Hottentot  constable. 

It  is  plain,  then,  that  without  overt  acts  of  a  very  grave 

r 


'JlO  HOTTENTOT  KILLED. 

character,  done  by  such  a  var  party,  hostihties  to  suppress 
it  could  at  no  time  bo  justifiable;  and  the  special  act 
insisted  on  in  this  case  "was  certainly  not,  in  its  circum- 
stances, of  this  grave  character. 

A  Kaffir  had  stolen  an  axe,  for  which  the  magistrate 
sent  him  under  an  escort  to  a  remote  town  to  wait  for  the 
circuit  coin-t ;  when,  as  his  countrymen  asserted,  he  ought 
for  such  an  offence  to  have  been  punished  on  the  spot 
at  once.  They  rescued  him,  and  in  the  conflict,  the 
escort  shot  one  of  the  Kaffir  assailants  dead,  and  the 
Kaffirs  killed  a  Hottentot  to  whom  the  Kaffir  accused  of 
theft  was  handcuffed.  It  may  be  admitted  that  the  poor 
Hottentot  guard  was  barbai'ously  murdered  to  effect  the 
release  of  the  Kaffir. 

The  language  and  conduct  of  the  chiefs  called  upon  to 
surrender  the  culprits,  would  have  satisfied  a  reasonable 
government.  The  first  chief,  one  of  minor  rank,  to  whom 
those  culprits  immediately  belonged,  went  at  once  to  the 
resident  to  explain  the  case.  He  had  originally  taken 
great  pains  to  moderate  the  proceedings  of  the  magistrate, 
who,  he  alleged,  was  in  the  wrong.  "  The  prisoner  was 
unjust.hj  accused,''  he  said,  "  and  hurried  off  xcithout  inquiry." 
He  then  wished  the  whole  case  to  be  laid  before  the 
Governor  to  be  considered.  The  Governor  would  then 
see  who  was  right  and  Avho  was  wrong.  The  best  thing, 
he  added,  that  the  Government  could  do,  was  to  leave  the 
affair  as  it  stood.  "A  Kaffir  was  dead  on  one  side,  a  Hot- 
tentot on  the  other."  The  next  superior  chief  concluded 
a  like  reply  by  saying,  that  "  The  Kaffir  and  the  Hottentot 
killed  had  been  paid  for  by  each  other's  blood.  The 
Governor  weeps  for  the  Hottentot.  We  weep  for  our 
man."  And  the  chief  paramount,  Sandilli,  declared,  that 
"  He  did  not  understand  the  treaties  required  small  thefts, 
such  as  of  beads  and  axes,  to  be  tried  at  Graham's  town, 
so  far  off,  and  at  the  circuit  court.  I  understand,"  said  he, 
"  that  stealers  of  horses  and  cattle  should  be  sent  there, 
while  a  short  imprisonment  at  Beaufort  would  suffice  for 


CAUSES  OF  THE  PRESENT  WAR.  211 

petty  thefts.  The  Governor  must  not  be  in  haste  with 
forces  in  this  case.  Let  us  speak  about  it,  that  we  may 
understand  it." 

The  Governor,  however,  put  another  construction  on 
this  event.  He  held  it  to  be  a  proof  of  the  influence  of 
the  xvar-jmrty  in  Kaffirland,  and  determined  to  use  it  as  a 
good  occasion  for  crushing  that  party.  Accordingly,  in 
1846  he  made  war  upon  the  Kaffirs,  and  in  seven  months 
closed  it  with  the  conquest  of  all  Kaffirland  to  the  Kei.  His 
successors  adopted  the  conquest,  and  the  Home  Govern- 
ment confirmed  it;  thus  reviving  the  D'Urbaii  system  of 
coercion,  and  abolishing  the  conciliatory  treaties  of  1837. 

The  result  is  before  the  world  in  a  new  Kajfir  war, 
begun  by  us,  and  aggravated  in  its  calamities  by  the 
union  of  other  border  tribes,  and  the  rebellion  of  many 
even  of  the  Hottentots  against  us. 

The  war  of  1840,  after  so  many  years  of  peace  produced 
by  the  treaty  of  1837,  was  made  to  suppress  the  irar-jiarty, 
which,  as  our  Government  said,  overruled  the  influence  of 
the  more  peaceably  disposed  chiefs.  The  present  war 
has  broken  out,  says  the  present  Governor,  at  the  instiga- 
tion of  the  chiefs,  whose  influence  he  declared  he  had 
destroyed  by  the  forcible  introduction  of  a  system  that 
was  to  benefit  the  people  at  their  expense. 

It  is  clear,  that  in  both  instances  we  mistook  the 
character  of  our  neighboiu's.  Before  the  former  war,  it 
was  our  encroaching,  unreasonable  acts,  that  made  the 
Kaffirs,  chiefs  as  well  as  the  people,  equally  uneasy. 
Had  we  been  wise  and  just,  the  war  would  have  been 
impossible,  whatever  any  war-party  in  or  out  of  Kaffirland 
might  wish.  In  the  present  case,  it  is  our  foolish,  brutal 
treatment  of  the  chiefs,  that  has  roused  in  the  people  all 
those  old  aff'cctions  of  clanship  and  family,  which,  once 
outraged,  make  men  submit  to  every  sacrifice  for  their 
national  leaders  ;  but  which,  skilfully  dealt  with,  enable 
wise  men  to  change  and  improve  the  character  of  the 
rudest  tribes. 


21'^  SYSTEM  OF  CONCILIATIOK. 

There  is,  then,  but  one  way  to  restore  hope  of  lasting 
peace  to  this  distracted  region.  In  the  language  of  the 
Attorney-Gejieral  of  the  Cape  Colony,  when  establishing 
the  satisfactory  results  of  the  system  of  conciliation  upon 
the  occasions  already  referred  to, — 

"  Botli  Kaffirs  and  colonists  are,  to  no  small  extent,  the  creatures 
of  the  cu'cumstances  by  which  they  are  surrounded  ;  and,  placed  as 
this  colony  is,  it  is  by  Ckristianizing  and  ci\ilizing  the  Kaffirs  ;  by 
rcligioiisly  respecting  OTir  own  engagements ;  by  a  judicious  admixt\u-e 
of  firmness  and  forbearance,  reward  and  punishment ;  by  encourag- 
ing the  well-disposed,  and  strengthening  their  hand  against  the  mis- 
chievous ;  and  by  gradually  cultivating  among  them  the  notions  of 
moral  obligation  ; — it  is  by  such  things,  more  than  by  commands, 
more  than  by  seizing  land,  more  than  by  military  force,  that  the 
ultimate  safety  of  the  frontier  farmers  is  to  be  secured." 

On  the  same  occasion,  this  colonial  functionary  rebuked 
an  atrocious  sentiment  lately  reproduced  in  the  House  of 
Commons,  and  received  there,  and  throughout  England, 
with  a  degree  of  horror  that  justifies  the  strongest  confi- 
dence in  better  principles.  These  remarks  of  the  Attor- 
ney-General at  the  Cape,  on  the  Kaffir  case,  will  properly 
close  the  present  notice  of  it.  He  said  that  his  own 
sentiments,  cited  above,  are  shared  by  the  best  men  on 
the  frontier ;  but  that  a  small  knot  there  treated  them 
with  scorn.  One  of  this  knot,  he  adds,  had  recently 
declai'ed  a  principle  which,  reduced  to  action,  would  pro- 
duce atrocities,  in  comparison  with  which  all  that  Alva 
ever  did  in  the  Netherlands — all  that  Dundee  ever  did 
in  Scotland — all  that  Pizarro  ever  did  in  Peru — would  be 
merciful.  "That  the  savage  Kaffirs  should  he  made  to  sink 
before  the  industrious  European,  and  thus  make  room  for  him, 
could  occasion  me  no  feeling  hut  pleasure,"  said  the  Cape- 
frontier  Englishman.  And  on  this  monstrous  sentiment 
the  Attorney- General  of  the  colony  commented  thus  : — 

"This  profound  contempt  of  coloui-,  and  lofty  pride  of  caste,  con- 
tains within  it  the  concentrated  essence  and  active  principle  of  all 
the  tyranny  and  oppression  which  white  has  ever  exercised  over 
black.     But  the  Cape-frontier  Englishman  is  not  alone.     A  member 


attorney-general's  speech.  213 

of  the  British  House  of  Commons,  in  one  of  the  New  Zealand  debates, 
has  lately  said,  that  the  browm  man  is  destined  everywhere  to  disap- 
pear before  the  white  man,  and  that  such  is  the  law  of  nature.  It 
is  too  true  that  an  induction  of  historical  instances  would  seem  to 
justify  his  theory.  The  history  of  colonization  is  the  record  of  the 
dark  man's  disappearance.  But,  to  use  Lord  Pluuket's  well-known, 
words,  history  unejilightened  hy  philosophy  is  not  better  than  an  old 
almanac,  and  while  it  is  uidisputable  that  the  contact  of  civilisation 
of  a  CERTAIN  GRADE,  with  men  uncivilized,  has  been  and  must  ever  be 
destructive  to  the  latter,  it  is  yet  to  be  tried,  whether  civilization  of  a 
higher  order — civilization  in  comparison  with  which  the  so-called 
civilization  of  former  times  was  bai-barism — is  not  destined  to  re- 
verse the  process,  and  prove  that  the  tendency  of  true  civilization 
is  not  to  destroy,  but  to  preserve ;  and  surely,  if  this  problem  still 
awaits  its  solution,  by  no  nation,  so  fitly  as  by  England,  can  the 
great  experiment  be  made." — Pari.  Papers.  Kaffir  Tribes.  Feb. 
1847.     pp.  18,  19. 

The  present  Governor  of  the  Cape  has  deferred  the 
solution  of  the  problem,  what  to  do  with  the  Kaffirs,  until 
the  close  of  the  war,  which  is  now  raging.  It  will  be  a 
wiser  and  a  safer  policy  to  retrace  at  once  our  false  steps, 
which  brought  on  the  war,  and  hasten  at  once  to  recon- 
struct the  better  system  of  conciliation  and  justice,  which 
before  relieved  the  frontier  from  danger,  and  produced 
the  long  peace,  still  capable  of  being  restored  and  turned 
to  a  more  profitable  account. 

The  influence  of  the  Kaffir  war  will  be  great  upon  the 
interior.  Fifteen  years  ago.  Dr.  Philip  warned  the  Govern- 
ment of  the  ferment  that  prevailed  then  from  Lattakoo 
to  Natal.  It  has,  at  present,  the  far  wider  range  described 
in  the  opening  of  this  chapter.  The  circle  of  human 
beings  affected  by  our  policy,  is  widening  every  day. 
But  every  day  we  are  more  and  more  nearly  approaching 
to  the  character  of  their  destroyers,  rather  than  to  that 
of  their  civilizers  and  regenerators :  seeming  desirous 
to  emulate  in  the  south  what  Fx-ance  is  doing  in  the 
north,  instead  of  setting  an  example  calculated  to  rouse 
them  to  spare  the  tribes,  which  in  their  African  domains. 
as  we  in  ours,  they  are  mercilessly  destroying. 


CHAPTER    X. 

70UKNEY  TO  CRADOCK KAGA  MOl'NTAINS — SIR  ANDRIES  STOCKENSTROM 

LORD     GLENELG's     SYSTEM HISTORY    OF    THE     COLONY TRUE 

POLICY    OF     GREAT     BRITAIN CRADOCK     NATIVE    CONGREGATION 

SOMERSET DUTCH    REFORMED    CHURCH MILK.    RIVER GRAAFF 

REINET VALUE     OF     FARMS REV.    MR.    MURRAY JOURNEY    TO 

COLESBERG DR.  VANDERKEMP^AN  UNEXPECTED  VIS-A-VIS — KOP- 
JES  COLESBERG  TOWN CONGREGATIONS — INTEMPERANCE — SAGA- 
CITY   OF    A    DOG ORANGE     RIVER    FERRY-BOAT    ROPE     BROKEN 

COMFORTABLE  PROSPECT— AMIABLE  WIFE — CROSSING  THE  STREAM 

EIGHT-HORSE  VEHICLE PHILIPPOLIS MR.  WRIGHT. 

The  next  portion  of  my  tour  embraces  a  visit  to  the 
towns  of  Cradock.  Somerset,  Graaff  Eeinet  and  Colesberg. 

After  a  public  breakfast  in  the  old  chapel  at  Tidmanton, 
to  which  the  people  had  kindly  invited  me,  I  set  out  on 
horseback  for  Cradock,  about  eighty-five  miles  distant. 
The  Rev.  ]Mr.  Gill  of  Fort  Beaufort  accompanied  me  to 
the  Cowie,  where  he  held  a  service  in  the  evening,  at  Mr. 
Ainstie's,  a  substantial  Scotch  farmer,  and  beneath  whose 
roof  we  were  hospitably  entertained.  His  farm-house  is 
one  of  the  best  stone  buildings  that  I  have  seen  out  of 
Cape  Town.  Mr.  Green,  of  Balfour,  accompanied  me  the 
whole  distance.  We  breakfasted  with  Sir  Andries  Stocken- 
strom  on  our  way,  the  next  morning.  I  remained  with 
him  a  few  hours,  and  rode  over  part  of  his  beautiful  estate, 
Maastrom,  a  portion  of  Avhich  embraces  some  of  the  ro- 
mantic and  delicious  scenery  of  the  Kaga  mountains.  The 
mountain  range  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Sir  A.  Stocken- 
strom  forms  a  magnificent  semicircle,  and  reaches  to  an 
elevation  of  800  or  lOCO  feet,  crowned  with  luxuriant  ver- 


SIR  ANDKIES  STOCKENSTROM.  215 

dure  to  the  summit,  intersected  by  numerous  ravines;  these 
are  filled  with  valuable  forest  timber,  and  the  surface  vi^ith 
grass,  which  in  the  autumnal  seasons  is  varied  with  a  rich 
variety  of  tint.     The  scene  is  altogether  enchanting. 

I  found  Sir  Andries  much  shattered  in  health.  This 
he  attributes  to  the  extreme  fatigues  attending  his  sei'vices 
during  the  Kaffir  war  of  1846  and  1847.  There  can  be  no 
doubt  in  any  mind  competent  to  form  a  judgment  in  such 
matters,  that  the  colony  is  vastly  indebted  to  this  gentleman 
for  his  most  efficient  services  in  that  war,  as  well  as  on  many 
former  occasions.  Whether  they  have  been  duly  appre- 
ciated and  acknowledged,  thoughtful  men  question.  There 
are  class  prejudices  and  official  prejudices  which  the  best 
of  men  have  sometimes  to  encounter,  and  under  the  disas- 
trous influence  of  which  the  noblest  friends  of  a  com- 
munity may  becorfie  the  victims.  Among  all  who  approved 
of  the  conciliatory  policy  of  Lord  Glenelg  in  relation  to 
Cape  and  Kaffir  affairs,  Sir  Andries  Stockenstrom  will  hold 
a  high  place,  and  share  unbounded  confidence  for  talent, 
experience,  unsullied  honour,  and  indomitable  persever- 
ance. They  will  ever  respect  him  as  the  fittest  man  to 
have  given  effect  to  that  system,  and  thereby  secure  the 
permanent  tranquillity  of  the  colony,  and  the  honour  of 
Great  Britain  in  this  portion  of  her  vast  empire.  The 
fearful  expense  of  a  new  war,  and  the  shaking  to  its  very 
foundations  of  the  colony  itself,  are  the  price  paid  by  Great 
Britain  for  the  preference  of  the  coercive  to  the  concilia- 
tory policy,  and  the  jealous  caprice  that  ignobly  forfeited  the 
services  of  the  ablest  man  in  the  colony. 

I  have  often  wished  that  this  gentleman  Avould  favour 
the  world  with  a  history  of  the  colony,  especially  in  its 
relations  with  the  native  tribes  within  its  boundaries  and 
in  the  vicinity.  During  forty  years,  or  nearly  so,  he  has 
filled  various  important  public  offices  ;  and  being  at  once  a 
keen  observer  of  men  and  things,  and  a  man  of  exact  and 
practical  habits,  he  could  bring  an  immense  amount  of 
valuable  information  to  his  subject,  and  such  as  I  am  per- 


QIO  DARK  PROSPECTIVE  FOR  NATIVES. 

suaded  might  greatly  serve,  not  merely  the  interests  of  the 
colony,  but  of  humanity  on  the  largest  scale.  I  think  by 
such  a  work,  carefully  prepared,  most  important  truths 
would  be  elicited,  measures  examined,  and  principles  illus- 
trated, that  would  greatly  tend  to  save  the  colony  from 
future  ill-advised  steps,  and  the  native  tribes  from  the 
withering  influence  of  the  white  man's  touch.  Nor  even  is 
that  enough.  It  were  surely  no  great  honour  to  a  Chris- 
tian nation  not  to  destroy  the  heathen  population  around 
them, — no  mighty  undertaking  for  Great  Britain  not  to 
crush  and  exterminate  comparatively  defenceless  tribes. 
There  is  no  gloi-y  in  goading  the  unoffending  into  resist- 
ance, and  then  visiting  that  resistance  with  retaliation  and 
punishment.  Yet  there  can  be  no  question  that  the  same 
process  is  now  going  forward,  for  the  subjugation  and  ulti- 
mate ruin  of  all  the  native  tribes  along'our  colonial  fron- 
tiers— Kaffirs,  Bassutos,  Fingos,  Tambookies,  and  Griquas, 
that  has  proved  so  fatal  to  the  races  of  the  Hottentots 
during  the  last  hundred  years.  Nothing  can  save  them 
but  an  entire  change  of  measures  in  our  relations  with 
them,  and  the  selection  of  right  men,  at  every  point,  to  carry 
out  such  measures. 

The  road  to  Cradock  is  uninviting, — no  beautiful  Kaffir 
hills,  no  luxuriant  scenery,  beguile  the  traveller's  hours. 
He  must  have  a  companion  and  be  companionable.  Then 
weariness  vanishes,  and  even  toil  becomes  a  pleasure.  "It 
is  not  good  for  man  to  be  alone." 

I  found  at  Cradock  our  Missionary,  Mr.  Taylor,  dili- 
gently employed  in  his  work,  both  among  the  Europeans 
and  the  coloured  population  of  the  town.  He  was,  some 
time  since,  at  Theopolis,  where  the  Kaffir  war  of  1846  broke 
out.  We  held  two  public  meetings  with  his  congrega- 
tions during  my  visit.  One  of  them  was  with  the  coloured 
people.  I  urged  on  them  the  importance  of  making  greater 
pecuniary  efforts  towards  carrying  forward  the  labour  of 
the  Parent  Society,  and  I  was  much  gratified  when,  on  the 
very  next  day,  two  of  the   leading  men  among  them  called 


CKADOCK,  SOMERSET.  217 

on  me  with  a  list  of  subscriptions  to  the  amount  of  £52  10s. 
per  annum,  and,  I  must  say,  I  thought  it  a  noble  contribu- 
tion ;  the  riches  of  their  liberahty  abounded  through  their 
deep  poverty.  They  are  also  engaged  in  building  a  new 
place  of  worship  for  themselves,  on  the  spot  of  land  granted 
to  them  by  the  Government  for  the  purpose,  and  towards 
the  i^ayment  for  the  doors  and  windows  of  which  I  thought 
a  donation  of  £20  from  the  Parent  Society  would  be  but  a 
moderate  and  yet  acceptable  contribution.  How  wonder- 
fully a  few  wealthy  friends  in  England  might  encourage 
the  hearts  and  aid  the  self-denying  efforts  of  these  poor 
but  kind  and  zealous  people  in  South  Africa !  A  handful 
of  corn  scattered  on  these  mountain  tops  would  yield  a 
harvest  that  should  shake  like  Lebanon. 

I  returned  from  Cradock  to  attend  the  ordination  service 
of  Mr.  Arie  Van  -Kooyen,  at  Tidmanton,  as  referred  to  in 
Chapter  VII.,  and  from  thence  proceeded  to  Somerset,  where 
I  spent  my  55th  birth-day,  and  called  to  remembrance  the 
various  scenes  I  had  passed  through,  and  felt,  I  hope, 
grateful  that  "  goo.dness  and  mercy  had  followed  me  all  my 
life."  Our  Missionary  here,  Mr.  Gregorowski,  has  a  con- 
siderable congregation  of  coloured  people,  consisting  of 
Hottentots  and  the  late  apprentices.  Their  wages  are  not 
more  than  Is.  M.  or  2s.  per  day.  Yet  I  find  they  raised 
not  less  than  sixty  guineas  as  their  contributions  towards 
the  Missionary  Auxiliary  during  the  first  nine  months  of 
this  year — a  sum  quite  adequate  to  the  support  of  a  native 
pastor,  though  not  sufficient  for  a  European.  We  held  the 
Annual  Meeting  of  our  Auxiliary  in  the  Dutch  Eeformed 
Church,  whose  excellent  and  warm-hearted  minister,  the 
Rev.  J.  Pears,  kindly  took  the  chair,  having  also  allowed  us 
a  collection  in  his  church  on  the  previous  Sunday,  and 
which  I  received  with  unfeigned  pleasure,  not  merely  for  its 
pecuniary  value,  but  as  an  exjiression  of  fraternal  and  cor- 
dial sympathy.  It  was  the  onhj  instance  of  the  kind  that 
occurred  during  all  my  journey.  Access  to  the  pulpit  was 
easier  than  to  ih.Q  i^urse.     "  It  is  more  blessed  to  give  than 


018  MII.K  RIVER. 

to  receive,"  said  the  Great  Teacher,  who  never  gave  utter- 
ance to  a  feeble  sentiment  or  a  mistaken  principle.  "  It 
is  more  pleasant  to  hear  than  to  give,"  seems  the  practical 
belief  of  some  of  his  avowed  disciples  in  South  Africa,  and 
some  Avho  sympathise  with  them  could  be  found,  I  fear, 
even  in  Great  Britain. 

From  Somerset  I  proceeded  towards  GraafT  Eeinet.  I 
had  the  pleasure  of  Mr.  Pears'  company  for  a  few  miles, 
and  of  ]\Ir.  Gregorowski's  to  "Alleen  Gelaten,"  "the  only 
spot  left,"  as  this  very  unique  and  exclusive  kind  of  name 
signifies,  hut  ichy  so  called  I  could  not  learn.  From  thence 
I  reached  the  residence  of  a  worthy  native,  Avhose  names 
combined  a^usions  to  the  great  of  past  generations,  "Aaron 
Paulus,"  who  kindly  supplied  me  with  afresh  team  of  oxen. 
I  next  came  to  "  Melk  Kivier,"  "  Milk  River,"  a  tantalizing 
epithet  to  a  thirsty  African  traveller,  picturing  to  himself  a 
river  of  delicious  milk ;  for,  alas  !  there  is  neither  milk  nor 
river,  no  running  brook  nor  purling  stream  ;  it  is  just  the 
name  of  the  dry  bed  of  a  torrent.  However,  here  we  off-sad- 
dled, and  knee-haltered  our  horses,  seated  ourselves  on  the 
grass,  and  left  our  animals  to  browse  ad  libitum.  Mr.  Mer- 
rington,  our  Mi33ionar}%  and  Mr.  Campbell,  school-master 
from  Graaff  Eeinet,  had  met  me.  It  became  dusk,  and  we 
wished  to  start — alas !  the  horses  had  wandered,  got  into 
some  jungle  down  the  diy  bank  of  this  Milk  Eiver,  and 
could  not  now  be  found.  We  left  a  man  in  search  of  them, 
betook  ourselves  to  my  wagon,  travelled  through  the  star- 
light night,  and  reached  our  destination  about  seven  in 
the  morning.  Amidst  this  arid  and  mountainous  region 
the  village  has  a  beautiful  appearance  ;  it  lies  in  a  fertile 
valley,  surrounded  by  lofty  hills  of  sandstone  and  porphy- 
ritic  clays.  The  town  is  well  supplied  with  water  from  the 
springs  that  run  among  the  hills.  The  gardens  are  delight- 
fully irrigated.  There  is  beauty  in  a  gushing  stream,  that  can 
scarcely  be  appreciated  except  in  a  "  dry  and  thirsty  land." 
The  Zondag's  Eiver  flows  immediately  below  the  village. 
The  population  here  is  about  three  thousand.     Fruit  in 


GRAAFF  REINET.  219 

the  season  is  abundant.  Unfortunately  for  me  it  was  not 
I  the  season  during  the  time  of  my  visit.*  The  inhabitants 
are  principally  Dutch;  the  English,  liowever,  are  on  the 
increase.  Landed  property  has  greatly  increased  in  value 
during  the  last  few  years  :  some  sign  this  of  prosperity  in 
the  colony.  Three  farms  were  purchased  here  for  60,000 
rix  dollars,  or  £4500  :  purchasers  could  now  be  found  for 
them,  willing  to  give  that  same  sum  for  each  farm.  Nearly 
£4000  was  lately  refused  for  a  farm  that  had  cost,  some 
time  since,  but  £1500.  The  streets  in  the  town  are  spacious  ; 
a  fine  stream  runs  through  them,  in  Dutch  style,  and  ole- 
anders, the  finest  I  have  ever  seen,  flourished  by  their  side, 
with  the  lilac-coloured  syringa.  There  is  also  a  noble 
market-place,  and  what  is  called  the  Boer's-place,  a  spa- 
cious and  convenient  open  spot,  where  the  farmers  may 
unyoke  their  oxen  and  put  up  their  wagons,  on  coming  to 
church.  Here  are  many  good  houses,  shops,  and  ware- 
houses. Everything  seems  substantial,  and  some  modern 
changes  are  being  introduced.  Four  huge  massy  wooden 
pillars  are  being  removed  out  of  the  church,  to  be  replaced, 
in  this  iron  age — this  fourth  monarchy! — by  four  pillars 
of  cast  iron,  presented  to  the  congregation  by  four  young 
men,  as  an  act  of  friendship  and  respect. 

The  Sunday  which  I  spent  at  Graaff  Reinet  was  one  of 
the  most  magnificent  days  I  enjoyed  in  South  Africa.  The 
thunder  and  lightning  of  the  preceding  day  had  cleared 
the  atmosphere ;  the  closeness  and  sultriness  then  com- 
plained of  had  passed  ;  the  sky  was  intensely  clear  and 
exquisitely  blue.  It  was  a  Sabbath  morning  :  all  was  calm 
— emblem  of  the  rest,  and  brightness,  and  sacredness  of  a 
still  more  exalted  state. 

*  A  practical  market  gardener  would  realize  a  fortune  here.  An 
onion  sometimes  costs  a  penny  or  twopence,  and  a  cabbage  a  shilling! 
Vegetables  are  always  scarce.  Parties  do  not  take  the  trouble  of 
raising  them,  but  they  would  buy  and  consume  them  if  brought 
within  reach. 

t  Daniel  ii.  40  ;  vii.  7,  19,  23. 


'^•^0    "  r.KV.  mi;.  Mri;i;.\Y. 

The  sorvioes  of  tho  Kov.  I\Ir.  L:vng.  clorgvnian  ot'  the 
Enghsli  Church  here,  are  coiuhu-ted  in  (he  English  hui- 
guage.  Tlu'  Duteh  KefornuHl  Church  is  mainly  for  tlie 
white  popuhitiou  using  the  Dutch  hinguage.  Some  few 
of  the  coUnnvd  peoph'  attcml  there,  hut  under  restrictions 
which  rather  ihsitourage  than  invite  attendjuice.  Hence,  a 
chapel  such  as  our  Society  sustains  is  needed  for  a  hu'ge 
portion  of  the  popuhitiou,  where  they  may  feel  they  have 
a  home,  and  where  the  pure  principles  of  New  Testament 
church  government  may  he  adopted  and  practised. 

With  the  lu'v.  :\lr.  ]\Iurray  of  the  Dutch  Chm.li.  I  liad 
some  pleasant  interviews.  One  of  his  sons  is  the  minister 
at  Bloem  Fontein,  and  iuiother  at  Burghersdorp.  At  this 
latter  place  a  new  "kirk"  was  huilding,  at  a  cost  of  from 
£3000  to  £4000.  The  amount  is  raised  hy  the  purchase 
of  a  large  plot  of  huilding  ground,  which  is  then  sold  oil" 
in  smaller  lots  (or  erven)  as  the  site  of  a  village.  These 
usually  fetch  a  good  price,  and  from  the  profit  of  the 
transaction  ahout  enough  is  realized  to  huild  the  church. 
A  manse  is  also  huilding  at  a  cost  of  £1I.>(>0. 

In  addition  to  all  this  1  may  say  that  the  religious  ser- 
vices of  Hie  day  were  very  delightful.  The  attendjxnce  on 
the  puhlic  services  was  highly  encouraging.  Mr.  IMerring- 
ton  appeared  to  me  to  he  steadily  pursuing  his  work  with 
all  his  heart  and  soul ;  and  his  wife,  a  daughter  of  our  late 
Missionary,  Mr.  Kitclnngman  of  Bethelsdorp,  proving  her- 
self a  helpmeet  to  him,  and  a  blessing  to  many.  I  foimd 
also  an  excellent  school  here,  under  (ho  elVicient  superin- 
tendence of  IMr.  Campbell. 

Sujiplied  with  relays  of  oxen,  I  proceeded  from  GraalT 
lleinet  to  Colesberg,  and  yet  but  slowly.  Our  cattle  could 
find  no  herbage ;  they  had  scarcely  anything  beyond  a 
draught  of  water  to  subsist  on  from  day  to  day,  and  became, 
of  course,  too  weak  for  much  service.  One  could  wish  to 
see  lucerne  more  extensively  cultivated  here.  I  found 
Mr.  Murray  strongly  recommending  it.  It  seems  well 
adapted  to  such  a  dry  country  as  this,  as  by  striking  its 


COLESBEna — DR.  VANDEIIKEMI'.  221 

roots  to  a  great  depth  in  the  soil,  it  finds  sufficient  moist- 
ure even  when  all  the  sui'face  is  parched. 

We  passed  a  mountain  of  considerahle  height  and  singu- 
lar af)pearance,  called  "Oude  Berg,"  "  Old  Mountain;"  its 
elevation  might  he  about  one  thousand  five  hundred  feet ; 
its  summit  consists  of  bare  perpendicular  rock,  from  thirty 
to  fifty  feet  high,  resembling  the  gigantic  walls  of  some 
ancient  tower  or  rampart.  It  belongs  to  the  Sneeuw  Berg 
range.  The  frequent  recurrence  of  these  descriptions  of 
natural  scenery  may  almost  weary  a  reader,  but  I  found  on 
travelling  that  much  of  the  tedium  of  a  monotonous  journey 
was  relieved,  if  only  by  watching  the  various  forms  of  I'ocks, 
and  tli(!  changing  aspects  of  the  clouds. 

Dr.  Vunderkemp,  amidst  many  peculiarities,  w^as  sin- 
gularly exact,  in  travelling,  always  to  rest  for  the  night  at 
six  o'clock.  On  one  occasion,  passing  through  a  country 
like  that  which  I  am  now  describing,  he  had  gone  forward 
with  his  wagon  beyond  a  stream,  and  yet  had  not  reached 
another  by  his  fixed  hour  of  outspanning.  He  accordingly 
tin-n<;d  back.  It  became  dark.  His  attendant,  who  is 
still  living,  went  down  to  the  side  of  the  brook  to  obtain 
water,  and  there,  much  to  his  astonishment,  came  directly 
in  front  of  a  fine  old  lion  on  the  opposite  bank,  who  had 
also  come  down  for  a  similar  purpose.  The  lion,  asto 
nished  at  his  new  acquaintance,  stared  him  full  in  the 
face,  and  not  a  little  startled  him.  The  poor  fellow, 
scarcely  knowing  what  to  do,  assumed  the  most  cou- 
rageous air  and  attitude  he  could,  picked  up  a  stone, 
)ais(id  his  arm,  and  seemed  to  sny  to  the  grim  monster, 
"Now,  if  you  dare  stir,  I  shall  certainly  throw  this  ston(> 
at  you  ;"  and  th(!ro  he  had  to  remain,  kee])ing  his  2)osition 
all  night,  watching  his  opi)()iient,  not  daring  to  stir  or 
sound  a  retreat.  At  length  morning  came;  the  lion 
turned  his  back  and  walked  off,  and  so  did  the  man. 
thankful  that  lie  had  not  been  made  a  dainty  morsel  of  in 
tliis  unexpected  rencontre. 

After  some  incidents  that  possessed  an  interest  at  the 


222  WEEPIXG  WILLOWS. 

time,  but  Avhich,  like  many  of  the  events  that  make  up  th( 
history  of  human  life,  have  lost  their  charm  by  lapse  ot 
time,  I  safely  reached  the  town  of  Colesberg.  It  is  highly 
picturesque.  It  has  a  tolerable  supply  of  spring  water; 
but  there  is  no  river,  and  there  had  been  no  rain  for  six 
months.  The  stream  running  through  the  town  seemed 
small  in  quantity,  and  quite  guiltless  of  transparency  or 
any  other  inviting  quality.  The  fountain  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood is  inclosed  by  a  stone  wall,  to  prevent  its  being 
tram^iled  and  spoiled  by  the  feet  of  cattle.  There  are 
some  cheerful-looking  trees  growing  in  different  parts  of 
the  town,  and  some  of  the  buildings  have  an  air  of  com- 
fort and  respectability.  The  Dutch  Reformed  Church  is  a 
spacious  building,  and  the  parsonage  is  well  situated, 
graced  by  several  elegant  willows  in  front,  which  seem  as 
though  they  never  ceased  "  weeping"  over  the  lot  of  the 
miserable  aborigines,  who  have  for  the  most  part  perished 
from  the  district,  a  few  of  them  only  remaining  in  the 
neiglibourhood. 

The  population  here  amounts  to  six  or  seven  hundred. 
The  town  is  one  of  the  most  expensive  for  living  in 
which  the  colony  contains.  All  provisions  are  high  in 
price,  and  wages  also  extremely  high.  The  country  is 
mountainous.  The  immediate  vicinity  of  the  town  consists 
of  what  are  locally  tei-med  "Kopjes,"  small  tops  or  heads, 
miniature  elevations,  consisting  of  jagged  heaps  of  stone 
or  rock,  and  resting  on  a  basaltic  basis.  They  seem 
thrown  up  in  confused  and  irregular  masses,  by  some  con- 
vulsive effort  of  nature,  during  a  period  of  great  volcanic 
action.  They  present  the  appearance  of  extreme  barren- 
ness. A  few  poor  wretched  Bushmen  find  shelter  among 
them ;  two  or  three  mats  or  skins  constitute  the  tents, 
black  as  those  of  Kedar,  in  which  they  dwell,  tliough, 
where  subsistence  can  be  found  in  such  a  region,  it  would 
be  difficult  to  define. 

Our  Missionary  here  is  Mr.  De  Kock.  He  succeeded 
Mr.    Atkinson,  now   at  Pacaltsdorp.      The    chapel,  which 


MOHAMEDAN  CONVERT.  223 

Mr.  Atkinson  was  the  means  of  building,  holds  comfort- 
ably about  two  hundred  and  fifty  people,  and  the  congre- 
gation neai'ly  fills  it.  Considering  the  limited  character  of 
the  population,  I  thought  the  aspect  of  our  Blissionary 
station  generally  very  encouraging.  Still,  the  ministerial 
labours  in  the  town  cannot  be  called  overwhelming,  espe- 
cially when  viewed  as  divided  among  four  denomuiations, 
viz.,  the  Dutch  Pveformed,  the  Episcopalian,  the  Wesleyan, 
and  tlie  Congregational,  or  those  of  the  London  Missionary 
Society ;  and  yet  it  would  seem  difficult  to  relinquish 
either.  The  watchmen  on  the  walls  of  Zion,  for  conti- 
guity, see  "  eye  to  eye,"  but  each  one  retains  charge  of  his 
own  post  of  observation. 

We  held  a  public  Missionar'y  meeting,  at  which  G.  Eaw- 
stone,  Esq.,  Civil  Commissioner,  obligingly  took  the  chair. 
There  was  a  good  attendance,  and  a  kind  spirit  manifested. 
I  was  struck  with  one  man,  who  came  forward  to  insert 
his  name  in  the  list  of  subscribers.  He  had  been  till 
lately  a  Mohamedan,  and,  as  I  understood,  a  priest ;  and, 
let  the  Koran  fox'bid  strong  drink  as  it  may,  this  genuine 
Mussulman  was  the  constant  victim  of  intemperance.  He 
had  now  become  a  regular  attendant  on  the  ministry,  and 
even  the  family  worship  of  Mr.  De  Kock ;  a  total  change 
had  taken  place  in  his  habits ;  he  was  supporting  his 
family  by  his  industry,  and  he  put  his  name  down,  with 
that  of  his  wife  and  child,  to  the  amount  of  five  rix  dollars 
a  month,  which  is  equal  to  £4  10s.  per  annum, — really  a 
handsome  sum  for  a  man  in  his  circumstances,  and  yet,  I 
dare  say,  more  than  saved  by  his  happy  rescue  from  in- 
temperance to  sobriety.* 

*  A  curious  fact  was  related  to  me  while  in  the  colony,  of  a  man 
who  had  been  much  addicted  to  intoxication,  hut  took  a  pledge  of 
resisting  it,  and  became  a  sober  man.  After  a  time,  temptation  proved 
too  strong  for  his  vows,  and  he  indulged  in  the  vice.  Again  he 
resolved  an  amendment,  broke  himself  of  the  pernicious  habit,  and 
became  a  sober  and  a  happy  man.  Once  more  he  was  in  danger,  lie 
was  in  the  town,  and  near  the  scene  where  he  had  been  already  a 


224  TEMPEKANCE  FIDO — 015ANGE  RIVEU. 

Mr.  Wright  and  Mr.  Vanderschalk,  our  Missionaries  then 
at  Pliiliiipolis,  came  forward  to  Colesberg,  to  escort  me  to 
their  station,  and  to  assist  me  in  getting  safely  across  the 
Orange  River.  And  I  must  say,  I  found  all  this  kind  aid 
of  eminent  utility.  They  greatly  facilitated  my  journey, 
added  to  my  comfort,  and  saved  my  time. 

We  left  Colesberg  rather  later  in  the  day  than  we  had 
intended,  owing  to  the  poor  oxen  having  strayed  out  of  the 
way  for  an  hour,  no  doubt  in  search  of  pasture  and  water. 
We  calculated  on  reaching  the  Orange  Eiver  in  about  five 
hours,  forgetting  at  the  moment,  that  though  our  oxen  had 
had  rest  for  some  days,  they  had  scarcely  obtained  any 
provisions,  and  wei'e  therefore  too  feeble  to  advance  at  a 
rapid  pace.  It  was  eleven  o'clock  at  night  when  we  out- 
spanned  just  across  the  Oorlog's  Poort  Paver,  which  falls, 
near  that  spot,  into  the  Orange  River.  We  expected  that 
we  should  easily  reach  the  "Ferry"  in  the  morning,  and 
still  be  in  good  time  to  reach  Philippolis  in  the  course  of 
the  evening.  Properly  speaking,  this  part  of  the  river  is 
the  Gariep,  and  riot  the  Orange  River,  though  frequently 
called  by  the  latter  name.  It  forms  the  principal  of  the 
two  streams,  the  Gariep  and  the  Caledon,  which,  by  their 
junction  at  some  miles  distance  below  this,  constitute  the 
"Orange  River." 

We  left  our  resting-place  after  breakfast,  and  reached  the 
bank  of  the  river  about  nine  o'clock.  There,  while  calcu- 
lating on  going  over  almost  immediately,  w^e  found  that 

victim  ;  he  paused  at  the  comer  of  a  turning  leading  to  the  canteen, 
and  at  length  resolved  to  go  there  :  his  faithful  dog  was  close  by, 
watched  him  as  though  he  read  his  thoughts  and  inward  struggle, 
and  as  soon  as  his  master  began  to  yield  and  turned  the  corner  of  the 
lane,  the  dog  came  to  his  rescue,  seized  the  skirt  of  his  coat,  held  him 
there,  tUl  a  sense  of  shame,  in  being  thus  checked  in  his  folly  by  a 
dumb  animal,  wTOught  a  change  in  his  unstable  spirit ;  he  yielded  to 
the  poor  dog's  remonstrances,  who  both  "moved  a  resolution,"  and 
"carried  an  amendment;" — he  dashed  away  from  the  danger,  returned 
home,  and  has  kept  sober  ever  since.  Is  not  Poor  Fido  entitled  to  be 
made  an  honorary  member  of  the  South  African  Temperance  Society  ? 


UNEXPECTED  DELAY.  225 

the  rope  of  the  ferry-boat  had  just  broken.  The  accident  oc- 
curi-ed  while  the  boat  was  crossing  from  the  opposite  bank, 
loaded  with  a  wagon  and  a  team  of  oxen.  Tlie  rope  broke 
near  the  bank  which  they  had  just  left.  The  ends  of  the 
rope  being  of  course  attached  to  the  banks  on  both  sides 
of  the  river,  the  disaster  was  of  no  consequence  to  those 
in  the  boat,  as  they  could  haul  themselves  to  the  side  of 
the  river  to  which  they  were  coming.  But  it  was  a  cala- 
mity for  us.  We  had  no  rope  from  the  other  side  with 
whicli  to  haul  ourselves  across,  nor  any  men  to  fetch  that 
portion  of  the  rope  from  the  opposite  side,  to  be  spliced 
and  again  fastened  there.  We  were  told  that  the  accident 
might  detain  us  a  fortnirjht ;  that  we  should  have  to  wait 
till  the  river,  now  so  large  and  swollen,  in  consequence  of 
late  heavy  rain,  had  become  fordable  ;  and  that  of  this 
there  was  no  immediate  prospect.  This  was  not  very 
encouraging  intelligence  for  one  who  was  anxious  to  be 
pressing  forward  on  his  journey,  and  who  had  made  spe- 
cific arrangements  to  be  at  Philippolis,  Griqua  Town,  and 
Kuruman,  during  the  next  month.  The  owner  of  the 
ferry-boat,*  Mr.  Nerval,  we  had  seen  two  days  before  in 
Colesberg  ;  but  he  was  expected  here  on  his  way  to  Bloem 
Fontein  immediately  ;  and  then,  when  he  came,  we  felt  that 
some  suitable  arrangements  would  be  forthwidi  made. 
However,  this  prop  also  gave  way.  Mr.  Norval  had 
passed  during  the  night,  and  had  gone  forward  far  beyond 
the  reach  of  helping  us,  or  even  of  being  consulted  as  to 
what  we  should  do.  But  his  ivife  would  be  on  the  spot 
shortly ;  she  lived  only  a  few  miles  off ;  she  was  a  woman 
of  business,  and  could  attend  to  the  affair  with  as  much 
tact  and  skill  as  her  husband  himself. 

Meantime,  some  person  appeared  on  the  opposite  bank. 
Mr.  Wright,  aided  by  good  lungs  and  the  sound-conduct- 
ing power  of  water,  held  a  parley  with  him,  and  ascer- 

*  Ldtcly  established  here  at  a  cost,  it  is  said,  of  £1000,  a  step  in 
the  onward  march  of  civilization  in  South  Africa,  and  a  profitable 
speculation  for  the  proprietor. 

Q 


';j'26  CROSSING  THE  EIVER. 

tained  that  he  belonged  to  a  party  at  a  short  distance,  who 
had  come  from  Philippolis  to  meet  me.  Much  to  our 
satisfaction,  we  presently  saw  a  small  boat  coming  across 
the  river,  rowed  by  two  men,  and  bringing  a  message  to 
the  effect  that  I  should  do  well  to  return  in  it  to  the  oppo- 
site bank,  and  leave  my  wagon  to  be  sent  fonvard  as  soon 
as  the  feny-boat  could  be  again  used.  I  complied  with 
the  advice,  and  in  a  short  time  found  myself  in  the  Griqua 
country.  Mrs.  Norval  was  ah'eady  there,  and  promised 
that  a  new  rope,  which  was  ready,  should  be  immediately 
employed,  and  my  wagon  forwarded  early  the  next  day. 
The  river  at  the  part  where  we  crossed  is  a  noble  stream. 
It  quite  equalled  my  expectation  as  to  the  volume  of  water 
rolling  along.  It  was  not  so  broad  as  I  anticipated,  but  it 
was  fuller  and  deeper,  and  more  rapid.  Fording  it  would 
have  been  totally  out  of  the  question  ;  the  cuiTent  was  far 
too  powerful.  It  reminded  me  of  the  Thames  about  Pdch- 
mond,  at  high  water.  It  had  been  much  swollen  lately 
from  heav}'  rains,  higher  up  the  country.  It  looked  ex- 
tremely turbid,  and  was  bringing  down  immense  quan- 
tities of  earth  from  the  neighbouring  lands,  through  which 
the  mountain  torrents  have  passed  to  feed  the  principal 
streams.  The  scenery  is  fine ;  it  may  be  pronounced 
rich.  The  banks  are  adorned  with  the  willow,  and  it  is 
stated  that  they  are  so  to  an  extent  of  a  thousand  miles  in 
length,  owing  to  the  sei-pentine  course  the  river  takes. 
The  banks,  on  which  I  wandered  about  for  the  couple  of 
hours  that  I  waited,  were  of  sand,  formed  by  the 
decomposed  sandstone,  &c.  in  the  vicinity.  I  picked  up 
a  few  small  specimens  of  agate. 

Leaving  my  wagon  under  the  custody  of  my  people  on 
the  opposite  bank,  and  quite  satisfied  that  they  would  take 
the  utmost  care  of  it,  and  the  property  in  it,  and  the  oxen 
also,  I  commenced  the  final  stage  of  this  part  of  my  tour. 
A  light  vehicle,  a  South  African  family  omnibus,  had  been 
kindly  sent  for  me.  It  was  drawn  right  royally  by  eight 
capital   horses.     Though  without   any  postilion   or   out- 


EIGHT-IN-HAND,  227 

riders,  eight-in-liand,  we  dashed  aAvay  over  the  ground  in 
a  style  that  might  have  ahnost  astonished  ovir  equestrian 
London  natives  in  Kotten  Kow  itself.  I  confess  the  plan, 
though  very  economical  in  point  of  time,  is  more  fatiguing 
than  the  sober  ox-wagon,  with  whose  stately  movements 
mortals  can  without  difficulty  keep  pace.  The  comfort 
is,  tliat  though  the  pain  of  jolting  is  severe,  you  are  put 
out  of  your  misery  all  the  sooner.  This  conveyance  he- 
longed  to  Gert  Kok,  a  member  of  the  family  of  Adam 
Kok,  chief  of  Philippolis.  We  rested  on  our  route,  for  an 
hour  and  a-half,  at  the  residence  of  a  Mr.  Weise,  a  mem- 
ber of  the  Philippolis  congregation,  and  before  sunset 
found  ourselves  safely  at  Philippolis.  H.  Hendriks,  secre- 
taiy  to  the  native  government,  and  two  intelligent  natives, 
Piet  Draai  and  Winsel,  had  come  thus  far  to  meet  me. 
Adam  Kok,  the  chieftain,  had  also  been  there  himself,  but 
was  obliged  to  return,  in  consequence  of  the  illness  and 
decease  of  his  sister.  She  was  buried  just  before  my 
arrival  at  the  village. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

PHILIPrOLIS PROPEKTY  OF  THE    GRiaUAS — ATTENDANCE    ON  SUNDAY 

SCHOOLS EDUCATION PUBLIC  MEETING ANTELOPES GRIEV- 
ANCES  RAMAH BACKHOUSE MESSRS.     OSWELL     AND     MURRAY 

CORANNAS — LEADING    OUT     THE    TAAL LANDS  TO  BE  IRRIGATED 

surveyor's      REPORT CROSSING      THE      RIVER GRIftUA     TOWN 

VFATERBOEK SCHOOLS BECHUANA  -WOMEN GEOLOGY ARTIFI- 
CIAL IRRIGATION DIFFICULTIES — DISCOURAGEMENTS — ENCOURAGE- 
MENTS— ^UNEASINESS     AS     TO     LANDS TREATIES ALIENABLE     AND 

INALIENABLE     TERRITORY LETTER     TO     EARL     GREY — SIR      HARRY 

SMITH  TO  EARL  GREY REMARKS  ON  THE    LETTER    TO  EARL  GREY 

LEAVING  GRIQUA  TOWN. 

I  FOUND  here  the  widow  and  part  of  the  family  of  our 
late  truly  valuable  Missionary,  ]\Ir.  Wright,  sometime 
since  of  Griqua  Town.  Mr.  J.  Wright,  who  had  lately 
discharged,  very  efficiently  and  acceptably,  the  duties  of 
the  station,  was  residing  with  his  widowed  mother.  His 
health  was  proving  inadequate  to  the  services  required 
of  him,  and  he  was  retiring  from  his  engagements  with 
the  Society.  I  took  uj)  my  temporary  abode  with  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Vanderchalk,  in  their  hired  cottage  ;  and  soon 
began  to  find,  from  the  conversation  of  the  chief  and  the 
people,  who  called  on  me,  that  my  time  and  my  thoughts 
■would  have  full  occupation  during  my  visit. 

The  Mission  chapel  here  holds  about  700  people.  It 
is  in  a  very  imperfect  state,  and  indicates,  I  fear,  some 
want  of  earnestness  and  liberality  on  the  part  of  the  con- 
gregation. There  are  no  pews,  and  but  few  regular 
benches.  The  hearers  bring  their  own  seats  with  them — 
chairs  and  stools  of  all  possible  variety,  and  of  the  rudest 


PROPERTY  OF  THE  GRIQUAS.  229 

description — a  plan  extremely  inconvenient  and  undigni- 
fied, though  just  a  little  above  squatting  on  the  ground. 

And  yet  this  absence  of  comfort  does  not  originate  in 
the  poverty  of  the  people.  Many  of  the  Griquas  possess 
considerable  property.  I  counted  not  less  than  from  forty 
to  forty-five  wagons,  belonging  to  the  people  who  had  come 
from  the  country  to  attend  the  services  at  Philippolis  on 
the  Sunday.  Great  numbers  of  the  people  also  came  on 
horseback.     They  are  rich  in  wagons,  horses,  and  oxen. 

The  attendance  at  the  chapel  is  usually  large  and  en- 
couraging. It  has  occasionally  been  six  hundred  or  seven 
hundred,  and  sometimes  only  half  the  number.  Many 
Bechuanas  live  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  attend  the 
chapel  on  Sunday.  Services  for  them  are  held  in  their 
own  language,  the  Sichuana,  once  in  the  school  room,  and 
once  in  the  chapel.  I  think  they  are  sufficiently  numerous 
and  intelligent  to  have  a  Missionary,  specially  and  wholly 
devoted  to  their  interests. 

The  state  of  education  is  not  very  satisfiictory.  The 
attendance  in  the  school  at  Philippolis  varies  from  thirty- 
five  to  seventy.  At  the  out-station  of  Eamah  there  is 
about  the  same  number.  This  fewness  of  scholars, 
amidst  a  large  population,  does  not  arise  wholly  from 
indifference  on  the  part  of  the  parents  to  the  instruction  of 
their  children,  but  to  the  circumstances  in  which  they  are 
placed.  But  few  families  live  at  the  town  itself.  The 
people  reside  on  their  farms  or  cattle-posts,  where  pasture 
and  fountains  can  be  obtained,  and  the  distances  are  too 
great  to  permit  the  attendance  of  the  children  at  any 
central  station;  besides  which,  the  actual  services  of  the 
children  are  in  many  cases  required,  to  assist  in  tending 
the  flocks  and  herds.  It  is  an  extremely  desirable  measure 
that  the  Griquas  should  devote  themselves,  more  exten- 
sively, to  (jcirlcaltural  j^ursuits,  as  a  means  of  advancing 
them  in  the  scale  of  civilization  beyond  the  condition  of 
the  pastoral  life,  and  still  more  as  a  means  of  weaning 
them  from  their  fondness  for  hunting  excursions  in  distant 


\>'60  EDUCATION. 

parts  of  the  country,  and  in  which  they  sometimes  engage 
for  montlis  together,  to  the  neglect  of  all  domestic  and 
civil  institutions.  Their  agricultural  pursuits  require  the 
services  of  the  youthful  members  of  their  families,  and 
hence  the  absence  of  children  from  the  Mission  Schools 
may  be  accounted  for  without  imputing  it  to  wilful  neglect 
on  the  part  of  the  parents.  But  even  in  these  cases,  their 
elementary  education  is  not  wholly  forgotten.  They  pro- 
cure some  leading  lessons  from  the  Missionary,  and  make 
some  little  progi'ess  at  home.  A  few  Griquas  have  united 
to  pay  the  salary  of  a  schoolmaster,  Avho  resides  at  their 
farms,  and  instructs  their  families  on  the  spot.  This  indi- 
cates a  very  laudable  desire  of  improvement.  I  wish  it  were 
more  general.  The  Griquas  might  have  improved  more 
than  they  have  done.  They  certainly  have  not  fully 
availed  themselves  of  all  their  advantages.  Philippolis 
itself  is  a  poor  town.  Very  few  of  the  people  have  con- 
sti'ucted  good  houses.  They  are  not  indeed  addicted  to  the 
use  of  ardent  spirits,  but  their  fondness  for  tea,  coffee,  and 
tobacco,  amounts  almost  to  a  fever,  and  which,  unhappily, 
never  becomes  intermittent. 

I  was  glad,  during  my  visit  at  Philippolis,  to  be  aided  in 
my  communications  wdth  the  j^eople,  by  Mr.  Bead,  senior, 
from  Philipton.  It  had  been  arranged  that  he  should  meet 
me  here,  and  then  accompany  me  to  Griqua  To^vn.  He 
conducted  public  worship  with  the  people,  and  addressed 
them  efficiently  at  a  public  missionary  meeting,  which  we 
held,  and  at  w4iich  C.  U.  Stuart,  Esq.,  Civil  Commissioner, 
obliged  and  gratified  us  by  taking  the  chair.  These  Griquas 
are  sufficiently  wealthy  to  pay  the  whole  expense  of  the 
Mission  established  among  them,  and  they  are  so  much 
indebted  to  Missions,  that  they  ought  to  do  it.  Mr.  Stuart, 
to  encourage  them  to  become  subscribers,  jiromised  to 
head  their  list  by  a  donation  of  ten  sheep.  The  people 
followed:  some  promised  yearly  amounts  in  money,  and 
others  cattle.  Altogether  about  £80  was  promised,  and  I 
thought  it  a  respectable  beginning.     This  was  merely  3 


A  MILLION  HEAD  OF  GAME.  231 

revival  of  their  former  auxiliary  to  the  Society  ;  it  had 
become  rather  inanimate,  and  needed  resuscitation. 

After  the  very  ample  details  given  by  Major  Harris  and 
Mr.  Gordon  Gumming,  touching  all  matters  in  connexion 
with  the  wild  game  of  this  part  of  Smith  Africa,  it  would  be 
not  merely  superfluous,  it  would  be  absolutely  preposterous 
in  me  to  say  anything  about  it.  I  did  not  forsake  my 
beaten  track  in  quest  of  antelopes,  quaggas,  butfalos,  elands, 
elephants,  or  lions.  I  saw  occasionally  herds  of  game  in 
the  distance,  and  I  was  told,  every  now  and  then,  that  they 
abounded  far  more  than  I  could  see.  In  a  note  winch  I 
received  from  Mr.  Stuart,  dated  from  Bloem  Fontein,  he 
remarks,  "  You  will  be  amazed  at  the  vast  herds  of  game 
between  half  way  to  Colesberg  (from  Graaff  Keinet)  and 
Bloem  Fontein.  I  reckon  the  number  of  game  in  my 
district  at  one  million  head.  What  a  heart-stirring  thing  it 
is  to  let  your  horse  have  the  reins,  whilst  he  dashes  up  to 
some  four  thousand  graceful  antelopes  !" 

I  dare  say  it  would  be  very  heart-stirring,  but  I  could  not 
induce  my  team  of  ten  sober-minded  oxen,  with  a  cumbrous 
wagon  at  their  tails,  to  try  any  such  experiment. 

Before  leaving  Philippolis,  I  had  much  conversation  with 
the  people  regarding  their  civil  and  political  circumstances. 
They  had  grievances  of  which  they  had  to  complain,  and 
to  these  I  shall  more  distinctly  allude  in  a  subsequent 
portion  of  this  chaptei'.  I  will  here  only  remark,  that 
while  I  think  the  Griquas  labom-  under  some  real  difficulties 
and  discouragements  from  the  measures  of  Government,  I 
am  convinced  tliey  can  be  effectually  heljDed  only  by  helping 
themselves.  They  may  require  the  guidance  of  an  intelli- 
gent friend,  the  stimulus  of  encouragement,  and  especially 
fair  dealing  as  to  territory  on  the  part  of  the  British  Govern- 
ment ;  but  unless  they  act  with  decision,  and  vigour,  and 
perseverance,  in  improving  their  own  condition,  they  will 
deteriorate, — others  of  more  energy  will  take  advantage  of 
them,  and  they  will  be  superseded  as  a  nation. 

Leaving  Phili])Uolis  on  my  way  to  the  Yaal  Biver,  I  sent 


23 Q  BACKHOUSE. 

forward  my  wagon,  and  proceeded  the  first  fifty  miles  of  my 
journey  in  a  horse-wagon,  accompanied  by  tlie  chieftain, 
Adam  Kok,  and  his  secretary,  Hendritc  Ilendriks,  and 
some  of  the  people.  Mr.  Read  was  also  my  companion, 
ever  bland,  lively  and  attentive,  rich  in  illustrative  anecdote, 
the  unwavering  friend  of  the  coloured  races,  and  the  de- 
fender of  the  "poor  and  needy,  and  of  him  that  hath  no 
helper."  Our  party  returned  to  Philippolis  the  next  morn- 
ing, and  Mr.  Read  and  myself  proceeded  to  Greet  Fontein, 
where  the  chieftain,  A.  Kok,  is  building  for  himself  a  good 
eight-roomed  house  and  stables.  There  is  an  ample  supply 
of  water  on  the  property;  many  families  might  be  provided 
for.     There  is  room  there  for  a  considerable  village. 

We  visited  the  out-station  of  Raraah,  where  the  stream 
divides  the  two  districts  of  the  Griqua  country,  governed 
respectively  by  the  two  chieftains,  Adam  Kok  and  Water- 
boei*.  The  village  is  small,  but  there  is  an  excellent  native 
teacher  there  of  the  name  of  Frederick  Kotze.  He  conducts 
the  day-school,  and  holds  sendee  on  the  Sunday.  The 
people  are  poor,  extremely  poor,  but  friendly  and  obliging- 
They  cheerfully  aided  me  by  the  loan  of  teams  of  oxen. 

We  reached  the  next  day  another  out-station,  called 
"Los  Kop,"  Avhere  we  remained  two  or  three  hours,  held  a 
short  service  with  the  people,  and  then  went  forward  to 
Guahanop,  on  the  banks  of  the  Vaal,  a  station  which,  from 
the  interest  taken  by  James  Backhouse,  Esq.,  of  York, 
in  the  improvement  of  the  condition  of  the  people,  has 
since  been  veiy  appropriately  called  "Backhouse."  It  is 
about  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  distant  from  Philippolis. 
Here  I  met  w-ith  Mr.  Hughes,  our  Missionary.  He  was  just 
then  busily  engaged  in  assisting  Mr.  Murray  to  come 
across  the  I'iver,  and  to  convey  over  his  Avagons,  on  his 
return  with  Mr.  Oswell,  from  the  interior,  whither  those 
two  gentlemen  had  been  engaged  with  Dr.  Livingstone  in 
the  discovery  of  the  Lake — the  great  inland  lake,  called 
Ngami.  Mr.  Oswell  I  met  a  few  days  afterwards  on  the 
other  side  of  the  river,  also  on  his  way  to  Cape  Town.     I 


CORANNAS.  233 

was  glad  to  embrace  the  agreeable  opportunity  of  con- 
versing with  both  these  genllemen  respecting  the  newly 
discovered  lake,  its  surrounding  country,  inhabitants, 
productions,  and  scenery.  But  as  I  shall  have  occasion  to 
advert  again  to  this,  when  noticing  my  visit  to  Dr.  Living- 
stone at  Colesberg,  I  defer  till  then  further  particulars. 

Our  Missionary  Station  was  commenced  here  in  1845, 
and  has  all  along  been  identified  with  the  Griqua  Town 
Mission.  The  necessity  of  attempting  a  location  here 
originated  in  the  fact,  that  the  supply  of  water  at  Griqua 
Town  is  not  sufficient  to  meet  the  wants  of  any  increase  of 
population.  Provided  a  plan  could  be  devised  by  which  a 
stream  could  be  led  out  from  the  Yaal  lUver,  for  the  pur- 
poses of  irrigation,  a  very  considerable  number  of  the 
people  might  settle  here  under  advantageous  circumstances. 
Mr.  Hughes  has  been  indefatigable  in  his  attempts  to 
secure  this  great  object.  He  has  removed  there  with  his 
family,  built  a  house,  got  a  chapel  raised,  and  collected 
several  native  families  of  Griquas  and  Bechuanas  around 
him.  I  spent  a  Sunday  there  during  my  visit,  and  was 
delighted  with  the  encouraging  state  in  which  I  found  the 
schools  and  congregations.  There  were  also  many  Co- 
I'annas  attending  service.  Mr.  Kead  addressed  them 
through  our  interpreter  Jantje  Cupido.  He  appeared  to 
understand  the  Dutch  language  quite  well,  which  was  used 
by  Mr.  Eead,  and  to  speak  fluently  the  Coranna, — if 
indeed  the  term  fluency  can  be  legitimately  applied  to  a 
language  so  replete  with  clicks,  and  sounds  for  which  our 
English  language  fails  in  descriptive  epithets.  Judging 
from  the  pauses  and  intonations  of  tlie  speaker,  the  language 
seemed  to  me  singularly  monosyllabic, — an  idea  that  may  a 
little  confirm  the  opinion  expressed  by  the  Rev.  W.  Elliott, 
that  there  exists  some  relation  between  the  Hottentot  and 
the  Chinese  languages.  The  Coranna  is  a  dialect  of  the 
Hottentot. 

We  held  a  public  meeting  next  day.  The  people  are 
poor,  and   deserve    encouragement.     They  have   but   few 


284  LAND  TO  BE  IRRIGATED. 

means  of  increasing  their  property,  unless  they  cviltivate 
lanil,  and  tliat  depends  on  tlie  success  of  the  scheme  for 
securing  artilicial  irrigation.  Mr.  Hughes  has  justly  re- 
marked,— 

"The  Griquas  are  not  "wanting  in  enterprise  for  hunting,  fanning, 
trading,  wagon-clriving,  Avagon-mending,  and  even  wagon-making, 
nor  ■would  they  be  -wanting  in  the  enterprise  of  irrigation  by  the  river- 
stream,  could  they  but  be  shown,  by  actual  experiment,  how  the  thing 
is  to  be  obtained.  Coidd  a  model  farm  be  successfully  carried  out  on 
the  banks  of  one  of  those  rivers,  the  example  wo\ild  not  be  lost  upon 
the  people.  B\it  the  execution  of  such  model  plans  requii-es  skill, 
capital,  and  experienced  workmen, — and  hence  the  difficiilties  in  the 
way  of  the  scheme." 

Accompanied  by  Mr.  Hughes  and  Mr.  Eead,  I  went  to 
see  the  spot  where  it  is  proposed  to  lead  out  part  of  the 
sti'eam,  and  also  to  see  the  extensive  plain  which  it  is  pro- 
posed by  that  means  to  irrigate.  The  plain  stx-etches  along 
the  side  of  the  river  up  to  the  junction,  the  Vaal  and  the 
Zwarte  or  Black  Eiver,  and  where  they  then  form  the 
Orange  Eiver.  The  length  of  this  very  valuable  slip  of  land 
is  about  fifteen  miles.  Its  depth  is  about  five  hundred 
yards.  Hence  it  is  large  enough  to  admit  five  or  six  hundred 
families,  each  having  an  erf,  or  plot  of  gi-ound,  of  about  two 
morgens  or  four  acres,  with  a  frontage  of  fifty  or  sixty  yards. 
It  consists  of  a  fine  rich  soil,  and  is  land  fit  for  the  plough. 
The  basis  is  limestone,  but  the  upper  soil  is  a  reddish  sand, 
and  which,  though  shallow  at  the  upper  or  most  distant 
part  from  the  river,  increases  in  depth  as  it  approaches  the 
stream.  It  has  never  yet  been  cultivated,  and  will  not 
require  manuring  for  many  years.  The  fall  of  water  be- 
tween the  spot  where  it  is  proposed  to  lead  it  out,  and  the 
spot  where  Mr.  Hughes'  dwelling-house  now  stands,  is 
estimated  at  about  thirty-five  feet, — namely,  twenty  feet  to 
the  "  rapids,"  including  the  fall  there,  about  two  or  three 
miles  up  the  river,  and  fifteen  feet  between  those  "  rapids" 
and  the  spot  where  it  is  proposed  to  lead  out  the  stream. 
I  found  the  river  high,  and  the  stream  broad,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  late  heavy  rains.     At  all  times  the  stream  is 


AKTIFICIAIi  lEEIGATION.  235 

sufficiently  large  to  irrigate  even  more  land  than  it  is  at 
present  jirojected  to  cultivate. 

I  felt  so  strongly  impressed  with  the  importance  and 
necessity  .of  this  measure,  that  in  concurrence  with  the 
wishes  of  Messrs.  Hughes  and  Solomon,  I  wrote  to  Mr. 
Moffat,  jun.,  to  try  and  obtain  his  services  as  a  svirveyor, 
so  as  to  ascertain  the  practicability  of  the  plan  before  taking 
other  measures.  And  as  Mr.  Moffat  held  at  that  time  a 
Government  appointment  as  surveyor,  in  the  Orange  Eiver 
sovereignty,  I  wrote  to  Major  Warden,  British  Resident, 
to  solicit  permission  for  him  to  render  us  the  service  re- 
quired. This  was  cheerfully  granted  by  Major  Warden. 
But  on  examination,  IMr.  Moffat  found  that  the  level  of  the 
river  was  too  low  for  the  plan  of  irrigation,  and  that  the 
work  was  "utterly  impracticable."  "This,"  in  the  language 
of  Mr.  Solomon  of  Griqua  Town,  "has  proved  a  disappoint- 
ment to  the  hopes  they  had  entertained.  On  this  the  peo- 
ple had  fondly  fixed  their  hopes  as  the  means  of  advancing 
their  interests,  and  we  had  looked  forward  to  it  as  the  best 
expedient  for  giving  a  permanence  and  stimulus  to  our 
Mission." 

A  communication  has  been  recently  received  from  Mr. 
Hughes,  in  which  he  remarks,  in  reference  to  the  surveyor's 
report,  that  the  river  level  is  eight  feet  too  low  for  the  plan 
of  irrigation,  and  that — 

"  The  subject  is  still  pending.  Mr.  Freeman  was  so  impressed 
with  the  absolute  necessity  of  some  such  effort  for  Griqua  Town  Dis- 
trict, that  he  repeatedly  declared  that  nothing  less  than  the  unfavour- 
able report  of  even  a  third  surveyor  would  warrant  oui-  abandoning 
the  plan.  A  second  surveyor  is  now  prejjaring  to  go  and  give  liis 
report  of  what  can  be  done.  Eut  supposing  that  the  level  of  the 
river-stream  shall  be  found  too  low  for  iirigation  by  a  mere  water-  , 
course,  there  are  friends  who  suggest  that  this  said  deficiency  of  eight 
feet  ought  to  be  overcome  by  the  help  of  a  water-wheel,  raising  the 
water  to  the  level  requii-ed.  Mr.  Cameron,  of  Cape  Town,  has  kindly 
planned,  and  is  now  making,  a  model  of  said  water-wheel,  to  show 
the  possibility  of  something  being  done  at  some  score  of  places  outhe 
banJts  of  the  Vaal  and  Black  llivors." 


236  GRIQUA  TOWN. 

Being  now  ready  to  leave  Backhouse  on  my  way  to  Gri- 
qua  Town,  about  fifty  miles  distant,  my  wagon  was  taken 
down  to  the  water  side,  then  taken  to  pieces,  and  sent  across 
the  Vaal  in  a  large  boat.  Mr.  Eead  kindly  preceded  me, 
and  had  the  pieces  put  together  again  in  a  very  short  time, 
a  business  in  which,  I  confess,  had  it  been  left  to  me,  I 
should  probably  have  bungled  almost  as  much  as  if  I  had 
attempted  to  pi-each  in  the  Hottentot  language. 

Across  the  river  I  met  Mr.  Oswell,  on  his  return  from 
the  Inland  Lake.  He  was  conveying  with  him  some  re- 
markably fine  elephant- tusks,  found  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  lake.  One  of  them  was  unusually  large,  weighing 
lOSlbs.  The  ivory  would  fetch  about  four  shillimrs  a  pound, 
so  that  this  single  tusk  would  be  worth  about  twenty  guineas. 

Griqua  Town  has  about  400  inhabitants.  There  is, 
however,  but  one  fountain,  and  that  affording  a  stream  but 
just  enough  for  the  supply  of  the  resident  families,  and  the 
irrigation  of  the  gardens  attached  to  their  houses.  Some 
time  since  this  fountain  ceased  to  flow  altogether,  and  re- 
mained dry  about  six  years.  There  are  not  more  than 
about  twelve  good  houses  in  the  town,  including  those  of 
the  Mission  families  and  the  Cliieftain  Waterboer,  The 
station  is  important  as  a  central  field  of  Missionary  opera- 
tions, with  its  various  out-stations.  There  are  upwards  of 
1200  pei'sons  under  the  direct  influence  of  the  Missionary, 
and  500  of  them  communicants.  The  Missionary  here 
is  the  Rev.  E.  Solomon,  whom  I  had  the  pleasure  of  know- 
ing some  years  previously  in  Cape  Town,  then  attached  to 
the  congregation  under  the  pastoral  care  of  Dr.  Philip ; 
and  now  an  accredited  and  valuable  Missionary,  trained 
for  the  service  by  the  judicious  instructions  and  pater- 
nal care  of  Dr.  Philip — one  of  several  so  trained  by  Dr. 
Philip — men  of  the  colony,  and  eminently  qualified  for  the 
work  to  which  they  are  committed, — honoured  by  the  peo- 
ple and  approved  of  God. 

This  Mission  Station  has  been  established  between  forty 
and  fifty  years.     Mr.  Anderson,  who  still  survives,  and  re- 


GRIQUA  TOWN.  237 

sides  atPacaltsdorp,  had  been  the  companion  of  the  Society's 
early  Missionary,  Mr.  Kramer.  They  had  travelled  among 
the  Griquas  on  the  banks  of  the  Orange  Eiver.  Ulti- 
mately, the  people  settled  here.  The  previous  occupants 
of  the  country  were  Bushmen.  This  spot,  now  called 
Griqua  Town,  was  formerly  called  Klaarwater.  Waterbocr, 
the  chieftain,  has  been  an  enterprising,  energetic,  and 
intelligent  man,  well  acquainted  with  the  Scriptures,  of  a 
genuine  Christian  character,  and  well  qualified  to  instruct 
as  well  as  command  the  people. 

The  chapel  here  seats  about  400  people,  and  the  con- 
gregations average  about  800,  consisting  of  120  Bechuanas 
and  180  Griquas.  On  special  occasions  as  many  as  500 
attend.  Of  the  members  of  the  Church  about  sixty-five  live 
on  the  spot ;  the  others  reside  at  the  various  out-stations 
of  Moruani,  Ngoras,  Khaigap,  Gassiep,  Tsantsaban,  &c. 
There  are  about  seven  day-schools  maintained  on  this  Mis- 
sion, at  which  the  average  attendance  is  nearly  400 ;  one 
infant  school,  containhig  forty-five  children;  and  ten  Sun- 
day-schools, in  which  a  large  part  of  the  entire  congregation 
become  scholars. 

The  Sunday  which  I  passed  at  Griqua  Town  presented 
many  scenes  of  physical  and  moral  beauty.  The  day  itselt 
was  remarkably  fine,  clear,  and  calm.  The  tremendously 
high  winds  of  the  preceding  day  had  subsided,  as  if  in 
obedience  to  the  will  of  Him  who  has  instituted  the 
Sabbath  and  ordained  it  to  be  a  day  of  undisturbed  repose. 
An  early  meeting  for  prayer  was  held,  and  which  was 
attended  by  about  200  pei'sons.  Between  seven  and  eight 
o'clock  the  schools  commenced.  The  infant-school  met 
under  the  agreeable  shade  of  some  fine  fruit-trees  in  Mr. 
Solomon's  garden.  The  children  were  all  neatly  and  com- 
fortably attired,  and  which  is  no  mean  proof  of  the  ad- 
vancing civilization  of  the  people:  the  nicely-fitting  and 
clean  little  dresses  of  the  young  ones  were  made  wholly  by 
the  people  themselves.  Most  of  the  people  are  able  to 
purchase  clothes,  and  they  are  left  here  to  do  so.     To  sup- 


ij;18  GRIQUA  TOWN  SCHOOLS. 

ply  tlicm  gratuitously  would  be  difficult  from  its  expensive- 
ncss,  and  Avould  be  sure  to  create  jealousy,  however  fair  and 
impartial  the  intentions  and  the  doings  of  the  donors.  A 
Bible-class  was  being  held  in  the  vestiy,  and  a  large  Sun- 
day-school, containing  scholars  of  both  sexes  and  all  ages, 
assembled  in  the  chapel.  I  visited  next  day  the  school  under 
Mr.  Solomon's  care,  and  met  there  a  large  class  of  young 
persons,  who  read  to  me  part  of  a  chapter  in  "  Chambers' 
Educational  Course,"  in  English,  and  translated  each  para- 
graph into  Dutch,  with  much  facility,  and  showed  that  they 
quite  understood  what  they  were  about.  Another  class  of 
about  forty  then  assembled  and  read  a  chapter  in  a  Dutch 
work,  entitled  the  "  History  of  the  Old  Testament,"  and  on 
this  and  other  corresponding  subjects,  they  underwent  a 
long  and  brisk  examination,  and  indicated  a  wider  and 
more  exact  knowledge  of  the  Old  Testament  than  I  had 
met  Avith  elsewhere.  Mr.  Solomon  conducted  the  exami- 
nation in  Dutch,  on  my  gi^'ing  him  the  points  on  wdiich  I 
wished  some  questions  put;  and  the  result,  to  my  mind, 
was  very  satisfactory,  and  proved  that  for  some  time  past 
great  pains  must  have  been  taken  with  the  young  people. 
Much  of  this  work  of  instruction  had  been  conducted  by 
Mr.  Wright,  before  his  removal  to  Philippolis,  and  the  pre- 
sent Missionary  reaps  the  fruit  of  it.  A  foundation  is  thus 
laid  for  an  intelligent  and  improving  congregation,  and 
with  this,  for  the  progress  of  education  for  a  long  time  to 
come.  But  here,  again,  I  found  an  amazing  dearth  of 
materials  for  improvement.  All  the  young  people  of  the 
elder  classes  should  be  supplied  with  books  to  intei'est  and 
improve  them.  I  indulged  the  hope  that  the  Eeligious 
Tract  Society  might  furnish  them  with  some  ere  long,  in 
the  Dutch  language. 

I  had  an  interesting  conversation  with  a  native  teacher 
from  Moruana,  of  the  name  of  Makami.  He  had  slightly 
learned  to  read  many  years  ago,  while  Mr.  Bead  was  Mis- 
sionary at  Kuruman,  although  the  schools  at  that  time 
were  in  a  veiy  imperfect  and  inefficient  state.     From  that 


BECIIUANA  WOMEN.  239 

school,  however,  so  many  ohtained  the  rudiments  of  Chris- 
tian knowledge,  that  when  some  years  afterwards  Mr.  Read 
visited  the  neighhourhood,  he  found  no  less  than  thirty 
two  who  had  become  members  of  the  Christian  Chiu'ch. 

Several  Bechuana  w^omen  called  in  to  greet  me  on  my 
arrival  in  their  country.  I  was  struck  with  their  appear- 
ance as  sober-minded  and  intelligent  women,  and  I  took 
the  opportunity,  through  an  interpreter,  of  urging  on  them 
the  importance  of  their  using  all  their  maternal  influence  in 
a  rifjht  direction,  as  so  much  of  the  future  character  of  the 
nation  depended  on  the  instruction  and  influence  of  the 
mothers.  They  assured  me  that  they  felt  aware 'of  this, 
and  the  great  importance  of  it,  and  that  they  habitually 
prayed  that  God  ivould  help  them,  so  that  they  might  suc- 
ceed in  their  efforts. 

During  my  stay  in  Griqua  Town,  I  went  two  or  three 
times  to  the  rising  ground  on  the  south  side  of  the  town,  a 
favourite  spot,  I  should  think,  with  all  visitors  fond  of 
geological  and  mineralogical  pursuits.  I  gathered  up  there 
some  choice  specimens  of  the  schist,  containing  what  is 
called  the  yellow  or  golden  asbestos.  The  whole  formation 
is  really  beautiful.  The  layers  are  often  remarkably  fine 
and  thin,  yet  deposited  one  on  the  other  with  most  exqui- 
site regularity  and  evenness.  The  colours  are  richly  pre- 
served. It  constitutes,  altogether,  the  finest  exhibition  of 
the  kind  I  have  seen.  The  quantity  seems  boundless. 
The  contortions,  too,  of  some  port' on  of  it  are  as  singular 
as  can  well  be  imagined.  I  broug  \t  home  several  speci- 
mens with  Avhich  to  gratify  others  as  well  as  myself. 

Waterboer  the  chieftain  entered  very  fully  into  the  scheme 
for  irrigating  the  lands  at  Backhouse.  He  wishes  to  en- 
courage the  people  to  prosecute  the  enterprise,  though 
attended  with  expense,  and  he  was  prepared  to  meet  favour- 
ably the  various  points  of  arrangement  respecting  the 
holding  of  the  land,  that  had  threatened  some  little  diffi- 
culty. He  is  a  remarkably  keen  and  intelligent  man,  takes 
at  once  a  clear  and  compi-ehensive  view  of  a  subject,  and 


240  WATEUBOER,  THE  CHIEF. 

expresses  himself  with  great  propriety.  He  is  said  not  to 
retain  the  energy  he  formerly  had.  I  found  him  sutfering 
much  from  pain  and  indisposition,  but  I  saw  at  once  that 
he  was  a  superior  man.  The  great  difficulty  in  regard  to 
the  plan  of  leading  out  a  stream  from  the  Vaal  River  at 
Backhouse,  consists  in  its  expensiveness.  Tlie  plan  con- 
templated, -when  I  was  on  the  spot,  could  not  be  effected  for 
less  than  one  thousand  pounds.  It  was  proposed  however 
to  sell  allotments  of  land,  having  the  benefit  of  the  irriga- 
tion, at  £10  each.  It  was  expected  that  a  hundred  pur- 
chasers would  soon  be  found  among  the  Griquas  and  other 
natives,  if  they  once  saw,  on  the  basis  of  a  professional 
opinion,  that  the  object  could  really  be  accomplished.  A 
committee  Avas  appointed  to  act  on  the  business,  consist- 
ing of  \Yaterboer,  as  president,  Mr.  Hughes,  superintend- 
ent of  works,  Mr.  Solomon,  treasurer,  and  four  persons 
among  the  natives,  chosen  by  the  allotment  holders  them- 
selves. It  was  also  unanimously  agreed  that  any  natives, 
Bechuanas,  Fingoes,  Hottentots,  Bushmen,  &c.,  who  could 
pay  the  said  ten  pounds,  should  possess  an  equal  right  to 
become  a  landholder  with  the  Griquas  themselves. 

There  exist,  however,  many  drawbacks  to  the  improve- 
ment of  the  people,  some  of  which  are  quite  beyond  their 
control.  These  should  be  taken  into  consideration  by  the 
friends  of  the  coloured  races,  when  uncharitable  reports 
are  circulated,  as  they  not  unfrequently  are,  to  the  preju- 
dice of  the  people.  Mr.  Solomon,  in  his  report  on  the 
Griqua  Town  Mission,  for  1850,  observ-es  : — 

"  Several  circumstances  have  conspired  to  produce  depression,  a  few 
of  which.  I  may  mention. 

"  The  first  is,  severe  and  long-continued  drought,  aggravated  at  the 
commencement  of  this  year  by  the  ravages  of  immense  swarms  of 
locusts,  by  which  all  the  com,  maize,  and  garden  stuff  of  our  people 
were  destroyed,  together  with  the  pastm-age  of  the  coimtry.  Such 
visitations  present  a  greater  obstacle  to  our  progress  than  those  at  a 
distance  might  conjecture.  Their  first  effect  is  to  impoverish  the 
people,  and  produce  that  depression  of  mind  inseparably  connected 
with  very  spare  and  poor  diet ;  but  their  indirect  effect  is  still  more 


DIFFICULTIES  OF  THE  MISSION.  241 

injurious,  as  they  scatter  our  people,  and  remove  them  sometimes  for 
months  from  the  means  of  grace,  and  the  superintendence  of  their 
pastors  and  deacons.  As  soon  as  a  di'ought  has  set  in,  most  of  our 
people  have  to  seek  some  place  where  they  can  obtain  water  and  grass 
for  their  cattle.  Should  the  drought  continue,  frequently  a  whole 
location  is  broken  up  and  dispersed  ;  and  even  after  rarii  falls,  it  sel- 
dom happens  that  all  return  to  their  homes, — some  having  found  a 
spot  which  suits  their  inclinations.  And  those  who  do  return  rarely 
come  back  improved  by  the  circumstances  into  which  they  have  been 
thrown,  those  being  either  complete  isolation,  or  else  too  close  a  con- 
tact with  their  heathen  neighboixrs.  Many  of  our  church  members 
have  as  yet  few  mental  resources  of  their  own — their  views  of  Divine 
truth  are  not  very  comprehensive — books  in  their  language  ai-e  very 
scarce,  and  consequently,  they  in  a  special  manner  require  the  excite- 
ment and  stimulus  of  the  means  of  grace.  Severe  drought  has  been 
one  of  the  difficiilties  with  which  we  have  had  to  contend  tliis  year. 
At  one  of  our  villages  so  severe  was  the  drought,  that  the  poor  people 
had  actually  to  go  to  a  spring  five  miles  distant  to  draw  water,  their 
own  fountains  ha\ing  completely  failed. 

"  Another  cause  is  a  feeling  of  insecurity  regarding  theu*  tenvu-e  of 
groimd,  excited  by  the  fact  of  the  British  Resident  at  Bloem  Fontein 
having  come  \\ithin  the  boundaries  of  Waterboer's  district,  and  erected 
some  beacons  (land-marks)  there.  His  plans  are  not  yet  developed, 
but  reports  are  rife  that  he  intends  to  take  in,  and  include  within  the 
Sovereignty,  a  large  patch  of  Waterboer's  ground.  These  reports  are 
credited,  and  the  people  are  restless,  suspecting  that  ere  long  they 
will  bo  entirely  deprived  of  their  territory  ;  and  I  regret  that  I  am 
compelled  to  say,  that  the  course  hitherto  pursued  by  the  Colonial  or 
British  Government,  on  this  side  of  the  Orange  Kiver,  aifords  too 
much  ground  for  such  a  suspicion. 

"  Another  difhculty  in  our  way  this  year  has  been  the  hunting  ex- 
peditions of  our  people.  These  expeditions  are,  in  many  respects,  in- 
jurious to  themselves,  involving,  as  they  do,  their  absence  firom  their 
families  and  the  means  of  grace  for  five  or  six  months, — living  a  rude 
and  certainly  not  the  most  ciAdlized  kind  of  life,  besides  losing  the 
best  time  of  the  year  for  agricultural  laboiirs.  But,  I  suppose,  these 
himts  will  be  continued  so  long  as  they  are  fancied  by  our  people  to 
be  profitable.  For  the  last  few  years,  the  periodical  hunts  had  lost 
much  of  their  attraction  ;  but  the  discovery  of  the  Interior  Lake  last 
year,  and  the  large  quantity  of  ivory  brought  home  by  a  few  of  our 
Griquas,  who  went  to  that  neighbourhood,  very  naturally  revived 
their  love  for  the  hunt,  and  excited  their  desire  for  gain  ;  and  conse- 
quently, a  lai-ge  number  of  our  men  have  been  in  the  interior  to  hunt 

B 


mo,  GRigUA  LAND  QUESTION. 

elephants  this  year,  thinning  our  congregations,  and  removing  for 
six  or  seven  months,  from  under  our  intiuence,  those  who  might  have 
been  employed  in  promoting  the  interests  of  the  Mission  and  country. 
However,  as  these  hunts  will,  in  all  probability,  beeome  year  by  year 
less  productive,  the  evil  is  likely  to  work  its  o^\^l  cure." 

In  reference  to  the  above  remark  of  Mr.  Solomon,  as  to 
the  suspected  encroachments  of  the  British  Government 
on  the  lands  of  the  people,  Mr.  Hughes,  writing  from  Back- 
house, remarks : — 

"Mr.  Solomon  is  very  right  in  describing  the  Griquas  as  suspecting 
that  a  part  of  their  territory  is  about  to  be  WTested  from  them  by  the 
British  Resident,  for  the  benefit  of  the  Boers  of  the  Sovereignty.  The 
prevention  of  such  suspicions  was  om-  object  in  bringmg  the  Griquas 
into  treaty  with  the  Governor  of  the  colony  ;  and  if  now  such  treaties 
are  not  to  be  respected  by  the  parties  who  made  them,  then  all  con- 
fidence is  at  an  end.  But  we  v\i]l  still  hope, — as  we  hear  that  the 
chief,  A.  Waterboer,  is  taking  steps  to  restore  this  confidence,  and  a 
few  months  may  show  the  result." 

This  question  of  the  taking  possession  of  the  lands  of  the 
people  is  a  very  serious  one,  and  involves  most  important 
consequences,  both  to  the  people  themselves,  and  to  the 
tranquillity  of  the  colony.  1  found  the  utmost  uneasiness 
and  dissatisfaction  prevailing  on  this  subject  at  Philippolis. 
The  measures  adopted  by  Sir  Harry  Smith,  tlie  Governor, 
appeared  to  me  not  only  to  be  a  violation  of  treaties  solemnly 
entered  into  with  the  people,  and  confirmed  by  Her  Ma- 
jesty's Government,  hut  involving  much  hardship  and  in- 
justice towards  the  natives  as  individuals,  in  depriving 
them  of  acknowledged  rights  over  private  property. 

In  the  year  1846,  Sir  Peregrine  Maitland,  then  Governor, 
entered  into  a  treaty  with  Adam  Kok,  chieftain  of  the 
Philippolis  division  or  district  of  the  Griqua  Country,  and 
which,  after  distinctly  recog"nizing  the  right  of  the  Griquas 
to  the  countiy%  declares  "a  certain  i^ortion  of  the  country  to 
he  alienable,  and  the  other  portion  inalienable,''  and  arranges 
that  the  Griquas  should  receive  half  the  amount  of  quit- 
rents  received  by  the  Government  from  the  fanners,  whetlier 


GEIQUA  GRIEVANCES.  243 

occupying  one  district  or  the  other.  In  1848,  Sir  Harry 
Smith,  being  at  Bloem  Fontein,  formed  a  new  treaty,  in- 
stead of  that  of  Sir  Peregrine  Maitland,  and  forced  by 
intimidation  the  chief,  Adam  Kok,  to  sign  it,  threatening  to 
hang  liim  and  his  councillors  on  the  spot  if  they  did  not 
do  so.  By  this  new  treaty  they  were  made  to  accept  a 
subsidy  of  £300  a-year,  in  lieu  of  any  share  in  the  quit-rents. 
Provision  is  made  for  their  claiming  back  all  lands  in  the 
inalienable  territory  now  occupied  by  farmers,  on  leases, 
on  condition  that  the  Griquas  pay  for  such  improvement? 
on  these  lands,  under  certain  arrangements,  but  with  which 
arrangements,  as  they  now  exist,  the  Griquas  are  dissatis- 
fied, and  probably  not  without  reason.  As  to  the  "  alien- 
able territory,"  the  treaty  states  that  the  Griquas  are  to 
receive  the  £300  per  annum  for  "plaqes,"  i.e.,  farms  held  on 
lease  for  forty  years.  But  the  Government,  instead  of  claiming 
tJiese  farms  only,  claims  at  once  the  whole  district,  including 
many  farms,  say  one  hundred  and  fifty  out  of  three  hun- 
dred, which  the  people  had  either  not  let  at  all,  or  let  only 
for  shorter  jieriods,  as  five,  ten,  or  twenty  years.  Thus  the 
Griqua  proprietors  are  deprived  at  once  of  all  further  inte- 
rest in  that  property,  against  all  equity,  as  well  as  against 
their  own  consent.  They  are  not  allowed  to  let  the 
farms  on  which  no  leases  had  been  ""aken,  nor  to  have  the 
benefit  of  the  period  between  the  short  leases  and  the  whole 
term  of  forty  years.  Altogether  there  are  upwards  of  three 
hundred  farms,  or  places,  having  fountains,  of  which  the 
Griquas  are  thus  despoiled.  Nor  is  this  all;  for  in  the 
country  defined  as  inalienable,  the  Boers  already  have  about 
one  hundred  farms,  held  on  leases  of  different  terms  from 
the  Griquas,  but  the  quit-rent  of  which  the  farmers  now 
pay  to  the  British  Government,  of  whom  they  of  course 
hold  their  leases. 

The  farms  in  the  inalienable  territoiy  the  Griquas  are 
to  recover  when  the  leases  expire,  on  payment,  by  valuation 
to  bo  made  immediately  after  the  signing  the  treaty,  of 
the  buildings,  &c.,  erected  on  the  farms  by  tlie  tenants,  u 


2-14  APPEAr,  TO  I.OFvD  GREY. 

measure  which  they  will  not  he  ahle  to  accomplish  without 
extreme  difficulty,  hut  to  Avhich  I  earnestly  recommended 
their  immediate  and  continual  attention.  I  advised  them 
to  form  a  committee  among  themselves  for  that  specific 
object.  They  have  promised  to  adopt  my  suggestion  of 
having  two  councils  or  hoards  constituted;  one  as  a  muni- 
cipal council,  to  attend  to  the  interests  of  the  town  itself 
and  the  other  for  the  "places,"  or  country  hired  out,  and 
to  devise  and  effect  the  best  means  in  their  power  to  recover 
the  farms  icithin  the  inalienahle  territory. 

As  the  Governor  no  doubt  intended  this  latter  treaty,  of 
1848,  to  be  a  final  arrangement,  he  possibly  designed  to 
include  all  the  lands  in  the  alienable  territory,  ivhatever 
might  be  the  terms  of  leases  granted  on  it :  hut  his  treaty  does 
not  say  so ;  it  limits  his  arrangements  to  the  forty-years 
leases,  and  thus  gives  the  prople  a  ground  of  appeal,  which 
they  have  made,  and  to  which  his  reply  is,  "that  he  intends 
the  arrangement  to  be  final ! "  It  is  done  with  the  sword 
of  the  soldier — but  there  is  in  it  manifest  injustice.  As  to 
the  subsidy  or  compensation  of  £300  a-year,  that  does  not 
alter  the  essential  nature  of  the  case  ;  £'200  of  that  is  given 
to  the  chieftain,  who  had  no  power  to  dispose  of  the  lands 
of  his  people,  and  the  other  £100  is  said  to  be  for  them  ; 
an  amount  which  they  neither  ask  for,  nor  accept. 

Finding  that  no  appeal  to  the  Governor  could  avail  to 
obtain  for  the  people  such  a  revision  of  these  measures  as 
would  secure  to  them  justice,  that  is  to  say,  a  fair  compen- 
sation for  the  property  of  which  they  are  deprived — to  say 
nothing  of  the  arbitrary  and  undignified  manner  of  obtain- 
ing the  signatures  to  the  treaty  by  intimidation,  not  befit- 
ting the  "  Representative  and  High  Commissioner  of  Her 
Britannic  Majesty" — I  deemed  it  right  to  address  the  Eight 
Honourable  Earl  Grey  on  the  subject,  as  Secretary  of  State 
for  the  Colonies.  I  wrote  to  his  Lordship  both  from  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  the  Mauritius,  the  latter  containing 
a  somewhat  more  complete  view  of  the  case  than  the  fonner. 
These  were  transmitted  to  his  Lordship  from  the  Mission 


LETTER  TO  LORD  GREY.  245 

House,  London,  through  Sir  Edward  N.  Buxton,  and  by 
his  Lordship  copies  were  sent  to  Sir  Harry  Smith. 

It  may  involve  a  little  repetition  to  insert  these  letters, 
but  it  may  also  tend  to  make  the  business  still  more  in- 
telligible ;  and  it  seems  the  more  expedient  to  do  so,  as  I 
shall  have  occasion  to  offer  some  remarks  on  the  reply  of 
Sir  H.  Smith  to  Lord  Grey.  My  own  letters,  and  the  reply 
from  the  Governor,  are  inserted  in  the  Blue  Book  laid  be- 
fore the  House  of  Commons,  May  1851,  entitled  Papers 
on  the  Sovereignty  between  the  Vaal  and  the  Orange 
Rivers ;  and  these  three  letters  I  now  proceed  to  place  be- 
fore the  reader. 

[No.  I.  Copy.] 

Letter  from  Rev.  J.  J.  Freeman,  addressed  to  Right  Hoxourable 

Earl  Ges:t,  Her  Majesty's  Secretary  of  State  for  the  Colonies, 

&c.  &c. 

•'  Cape  Toicn,  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
"May  20th,  1850. 
"My  Lord, — 

"I  reached  Cape  Town  from  England  about  fifteen  months  ago,  as  a 
Deputation  from  the  Du'ectors  of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  for 
the  purpose  of  visiting  all  their  stations  in  South  Afi'ica.  I  have  just 
completed  my  tour  of  observation  tlirough  the  colony,  British  Kafii'aria, 
part  of  Tambookieland,  the  Griqua  and  Bechuana  countries,  and  a 
considerable  portion  of  the  British  Sovereignty  north  of  Orange  River, 
I  have  also  visited  the  Basuto  country,  and  the  Natal  district.  I  am 
about  to  visit  ISIauritius  on  my  return  liome,  and  hope  to  reach 
England  about  November  next. 

"  I  would  defer  my  communication  to  your  Lordship  till  my  return, 
but  that  I  might  thus  possibly  be  too  late  to  accomplish  the  object  at 
which  I  aim. 

"  My  unnaediate  business  has  been,  as  your  Lordship  will  have 
perceived  from  the  foregoing  remark,  in  connection  with  the  Mission- 
ary Institutions  of  the  colony  and  the  border  tribes  ;  but  in  pursuing 
that  object,  it  has  been  impossible  not  to  observe  the  social  condition 
of  the  people,  and  the  influence  of  the  political  measures  adopted  by 


Q  16  LETTER  TO  I,Or>D  GREY. 

the  British  Government  in  relation  to  them,  on  that  social  condition 
Hence,  if  in  noticing  these  political  relations,  I  am  suspected  it 
stepping  out  of  my  direct  line,  I  must  plead  the  fact,  that  both  i\\i- 
religious  and  social  condition  and  advancement  of  the  people  are  mosi 
deeply  affected  by  the  political  arrangements  to  which  I  allude. 

"I  have  seen,  my  Lord,  that  certain  measures  have  been  adopti'l 
in  relation  to  the  border  tribes  of  this  colony  (I  speak  now  especially 
of  Griquas  and  Basutos),  that  involve,  in  my  judgment,  many  things 
that  are  essentially  unjust  —  in  violation  of  previous  treaties  —  at 
variance  with  instructions  from  yoiir  Lordship's  predecessors  in  office 
— injurious  to  the  cause  of  Christian  Missions,  and  ultimately  to  the 
peace  and  well-being  of  the  colony. 

"At  the  present  moment  my  aim  therefore  is  to  ask  your  Lordship, 
if  it  be  not  too  late  to  do  so,  to  suspend  final  decision  regarding  the 
Sovereignty  north  of  the  Orange  River,  and  the  policy  of  Sir  H.  Smith, 
so  far  as  the  border  tribes  are  affected  by  the  Sovereignty,  until  further 
information  is  placed  before  your  Lordship. 

*'  Permit  me  to  express  my  conviction,  my  Lord,  after  having  seen 
and  conversed  with  the  chiefs  and  people,  that  the  general  aim  of  his 
Excellency  in  proclaiming  a  Sovereignty  is  most  valuable.  The 
scheme  of  a  Sovereignty  is  good ;  the  scheme,  that  is,  of  making  the 
British  power  supreme,  of  preventing  the  further  irregular  intrusion 
of  the  Boers  on  the  territories  of  the  natives,  and  checking  the  mutual 
wars  of  the  natives  themselves.  All  this  is  of  great  value  to  the 
colony,  to  the  Boers,  and  the  native  tribes.  But  I  am  bound  to  say 
that,  in  the  details  and  the  working  out  of  that  scheme,  many  things 
require  immediate  correction,  especially  the  virtual  repeal  by  Sir  H. 
Smith  of  the  first  article  in  the  treaty  of  Sir  P.  Maitland  with  the 
chieftain  Adam  Kok,  of  5th  February,  1846,  the  forcibly  depriving 
the  natives  of  so  much  land  in  defiance  of  that  whole  treaty,  although 
confirmed  by  Her  Majesty,  and  the  severing  also  of  so  much  territory 
from  the  Basutos  for  the  sake  of  the  Boers. 

"I  am  certain  that,  by  these  measures,  we  are  committing  great 
injustice,  fixing  a  stigma  on  the  British  name,  and  creating  a  greater 
number  of  dissatisfied  borderers,  and  a  more  inveterate  hatred  of  the 
English  name  and  Government  than  ever. 

"  The  natives,  my  Lord,  have  been  deprived  of  large  portions  of 


LETTER  TO  LORD  GREY.  247 

territory,  not  of  waste  and  unoccupied  land,  but  of  occupied  and  cul- 
tivated land  ;  deprived  of  it  in  defiance  of  their  entreaties  and  remon- 
strances, and  in  opposition  to  treaties  made  and  confirmed,  as  already 
referred  to ;  and  which  territory  the  native  chiefs  have  been  forced  to 
surrender  to  the  British  Government,  although  having  no  right  to  part 
■with  it,  and  for  which  no  adequate  compensation  is  made. 

"These  remarks,  my  Lord,  apply  most  particularly  to  the  Basutos 
comitry  under  Moshesh,  and  to  the  Griqua  country  under  Adam 
Kok. 

"  My  earnest  prayer  is,  that  before  the  affairs  of  these  countries,  as 
now  arranged  by  Sir  II.  Smith,  are  finally  confirmed  by  your  Lordship, 
there  may  be  a  special  Commission  of  Inquiry  appointed,  that  the  voice 
of  the  people  may  be  patiently  heard,  and  their  jvist  claims  met  so  far 
as  possible ;  and  I  venture  to  believe,  my  Lord,  that  this  can  be  done 
without  disturbing  the  general  policy  of  Sir  II.  Smith. 

"  These  are  the  main  points  to  which,  from  their  urgency,  I  venture 
to  solicit  your  Lordship's  attention. 

"  On  my  return  to  England,  there  are  two  or  three  other  points  on 
which  I  am  desirous  of  offering  some  observations,  with  your  Lord- 
ship's permission.  I  refer  to  the  case  of  the  native  tribes  beyond  the 
Sovereignty,  which  are  now  reduced  to  vassalage,  or  being  destroyed  by 
the  emigrant  Boers — the  preservation  of  native  tribes  now  settling  in 
Natal — -and  the  causes  and  conduct  of  the  late  Kaffir  war.  Possibly 
these  might  be  matter  of  inquiry  for  the  Commission. 

"  My  present  object,  however,  relates  mainly  to  the  claims  of  the 
Basutos  and  the  Griquas. 

"  I  hold  that  it  is  certain,  my  Lord,  the  aboriginal  races  of  South 
Africa  need  not  be  crushed  down,  nor  deprived  of  their  lands,  nor 
exterminated,  if  only  justice  and  benevolence  characterize  the  treat- 
ment they  receive  at  the  hands  of  the  British  Government. 

"I  have,  &c., 
"  Right  Hon.  Earl  Grey,  "JOS.  J.  FREEMAlSr. 

"&c.  &c.  &c. 

"P.S.  Any  reply  your  Lordship  may  be  pleased  to  favour  me  with, 
may  be  forwarded  to  the  care  of  the  Rev.  Dr.  Tidman,  Blomfield- 
strect,  Finsbury,  London." 


248  SECOND  LETTER  TO  LORD  GREY. 


[No.  II.  Copy.] 

To  the  Right  Hon.  Eakl  Grey,  Her  Majesty's  Secretary  of  State 
for  the  Colonies,  &c.  &c. 

"Port  Louis,  Mauritius,  August  20,  1850. 
"  My  Lord, — 

"  I  beg  most  respectfully  to  refer  your  Lordship  to  my  letter  dated 
'  Cape  To\\ii,  20th  May  1850.' 

"  As  I  may  possibly  not  reach  England  quite  so  early  as  I  intimated 
in  that  letter,  I  have  thought  it  necessary  to  convey  to  your  Lordship, 
•without  further  delay,  some  additional  details  of  the  case  as  it  respects 
the  Griquas  and  the  Basutos,  on  whose  behalf  I  ventxu-ed  to  submit  to 
your  Lordship  the  ad\-isableness  of  '  inquiry'  prior  to  any  final  con- 
firmation of  the  measures  of  his  Excellency  Sir  Harry  Smith,  Governor 
of  the  Cape,  in  relation  to  the  '  Sovereignty  north  of  the  Orange 
River,'  and  the  'border  tribes.' 

"  The  case  regarding  the  Griquas  is,  in  brief,  this  ;  Sir  Peregrine 
Maitland,  late  Governor  of  the  Cape,  aware  of  difficulties  arising  out 
of  the  settlement  of  Boers  (or  Dutch  farmers)  in  Griqua  territory, 
while  stUl  British  subjects,  drew,  with  the  consent  of  the  Griqua 
Government,  a  line  of  demarcation,  separating  the  Griqua  country  into 
two  divisions,  one  of  which  should  be  regarded  as  '  alienable,'  and  the 
other  as  '  inalienable.'  *  But  the  paramoimt  right  of  the  Griquas  over 
the  whole  territory  was  distinctly  stated  in  the  treaty,  and  that  treaty 
was  confirmed  by  the  Imperial  Government.  In  the  former  division, 
the  alienable,  the  Boers  were  permitted  to  take  leases  of  the  Griqua 
proprietors  for  any  term  not  exceeding  'forty  years ;'  but  from  the  latter 
division,  namely  the  '  inalienable,'  they  (the  Boers)  were  to  regard 
themselves  as  excluded. 

"  Subsequently,  however,  Sir  Harry  Smith,  without  any  violation 
of  the  treaty  on  the  i^art  of  the  Griquas,  and  while  these  people  were 
still  our  friends  and  faithful  allies,  and  solely  with  the  view  of  con- 
ciliating the  Dutch  farmers  who  had  settled  there,  has  alienated  for 
ever  from  the  Griquas  that  first  division  of  their  coimtry.     He  has 

*  The  Dutch  terms  are,  "huurbaar"  and  "  onhuurbaar,"  literally 
— ^leaseable  and  unleaseable. — J.  J.  F. 


SECOND  LETTER  TO  LORD  GREY.  S49 

affirmed  and  proclaimed  that  he  should  regard  the  whole  of  that 
division,  for  whatever  term  actually  leased  or  not  leased  at  all  by  the 
Griquas,  as  being  virtually  leased  for  forty  years  ;  and  that  the  whole 
of  this  should  at  once  be  taken  from  the  Griquas,  and  constituted 
part  and  parcel  of  the  British  Sovereignty,  to  the  exclusion  of  all  right 
and  claim  on  the  part  of  the  Griquas, — so  that  the  farmers  shoidd 
hold  their  farms  of  the  British  Government,  to  whom  they  should 
be  required  to  pay  a  quit-rent. 

"  To  this  measure  the  Griquas  most  m-gently  and  solemnly  demur. 
They  deem  it  unjust  that  they  should  be  deprived  of  theii*  lands 
without  their  consent,  without  having  given  any  cause  of  offence,  and 
also  without  adequate  remuneration.  They  were  6o«a^(/e  proprietors 
of  their  farms.  The  alienable  territory  alone  contained  about  three 
hundred  farms.  About  half  that  number  had  been  leased  to  Dutch 
farmers  for  forty  years,  and  the  other  half  was  either  not  leased  at  all 
or  for  various  periods  less  than  forty  years.  * 

"Sir  Harry  Smith's  arrangements  interfere  with  all  the  rights  of 
private  property.  The  chieftain,  Adam  Kok,  had  no  power  to  dispose 
of  the  lands  of  liis  people,  it  being  property  distmctly  held  by  his 
subjects,  and  whose  rights  were  as  clearly  recognized  as  in  any  civil- 
ized country.  The  Griqua  right  in  the  soil,  as  individuals,  was  also 
recognized  by  the  Dutch  farmers,  in  taking  leases  for  terms  of  years 
of  the  Griqua  proprietors. 

"  Sir  Harry  Smith  forced  by  intimidation  the  Government  of  Adam 
Kok  to  sign  the  treaty  that  dei)rivcs  them  of  the  said  alienable 
territory ;  but  they  appeal  to  the  honour  of  Her  Majesty's  Government 
against  that  intimidation,  and  the  treaty  so  forced  out  of  them  in 
defiance  of  all  right  and  remonstrance. 

"  The  Gricjuas  are  not  unwilling  to  part  Avith  that  portion  of  their 
territory  denominated  '  alienable,'  under  equitable  arrangements;  but 
they  consider  themselves  entitled  to  the  riglit  of  leasing  out  for  forty 
years  all  that  portion  of  the  territory  wliich  had  not  been  let  for  that 
term,  and  also  of  leasing  out  such  other  farms  as  were  let  on  leases  of 
less  than  forty  years,  for  such  periods  still  as  would  make  them 
equivalent  to  forty-year  leases. 

"  This  claun  I  beg  to  subiuit  to  your  Lordship  as  most  reasonable 
and  just. 


^50  SECOND  I.ETTKR  TO  LORD  GREY. 

""With  regard  to  the  inalienable  territory,  Sir  Harry  Smith  has 
decided,  that  the  farmers  who  hold  farms  there  shall  absolutely  quit 
them  at  the  expiration  of  the  leases  respectively,  on  the  Griquas 
paying  them  the  value  of  buildings,  &c.,  erected  on  them,  as  per 
estimate,  agreed  to  be  made  from  the  time  of  the  treaty,  January  1848. 

"  It  is  true  that  the  chieftain,  Adam  Kok,  not  only  consented  to  an 
arrangement  as  to  repayment  for  buildings,  &c.,  but  even  originated 
the  idea,  as  stated  at  the  foot  of  the  treaty,  January  1848,  and  which 
proves  the  fairness  and  friendliness  of  the  Griquas  ;  but  in  the  actual 
working  out  of  this  arrangement  the  Griquas  have  much  to  comi^lain 
of.  "With  the  details  of  their  complaints  on  this  head  I  am  unwilling 
to  trouble  your  Lordship  ;  but  I  submit  that  it  will  be  only  an  act 
of  common  justice  to  hear  and  examine  the  complaints,  in  the  event  of 
any  Commission  of  Inqxiiry  being  appointed. 

"Sir  Harry  Smith  has  granted  to  the  Griquas  £300  per  annum,  in 
lieu  of  all  tlfcir  claims  on  the  land  of  which  he  has  deprived  them ;  that 
is  to  say,  £200  is  granted  to  the  chieftain,  Adam  Kok,  and  £100  to  be 
divided  among  the  proprietors  of  all  those  farms  held  by  the  Boers. 

"But  with  this  arrangement  they  are  dissatisfied  ;  for,  although  at 
the  time  of  making  that  grant  they  might  not  be  receiving  so  large 
an  amount  from  the  farms  annually  (and  this  is  his  Excellency's  plea 
in  justification  of  his  measures),  it  must  be  recollected  that  the  Griquas 
had  let  their  farms  on  the  payment  of  a  stipulated  sum,  paid  at  once, 
and  not  by  an  annual  rental.  As  the  leases  expired,  they  would  have 
also  let  at  an  improved  rental,  and  the  other  farms,  which  were  not  yet 
let,  would  also  have  let  to  advantage.  Of  this  advantage  the  Griquas 
are  wholly  depriA'ed  ;  so  that,  in  fact,  they  are  impoverished,  and  not 
improved  by  the  bargain  Sir  H.  Smith  has  made.  The  £100  which  his 
Excellency  proposed  should  be  divided  among  them,  say  about  5s.  per 
head  to  each  proprietor  of  a  valuable  farm,  they  disdain  to  touch,  as 
being  utterly  imworthy  of  their  acceptance,  and  as  seeming  to  imply 
their  acquiescence  in  so  imjust  a  compromise  of  the  matter  in  dispute. 

"The  Griquas  have  repeatedly  written  to  Sir  Harry  Smith  to  convey 
their  remonstrances,  but  in  vain.  His  Excellency  regards  the  matter 
as  finally  settled  ;  and  as  they  can  obtain  no  redress  in  that  quarter, 
they  have  earnestly  solicited  me  to  bring  the  subject  under  the  atten- 
tion of  Her  Majesty's  Government  at  home.     I  conversed  with  Sir 


I  GRIQUA  WRONGS.  251 

H.  Smith  on  these  affaii-s,  when  lately  at  the  Cape  ;  but  finding  that 
he  regards  his  measures  as  final  and  imaltcrable,  I  have  no  alternative 
but  to  place  them  under  the  notice  of  your  Lordship,  persuaded,  as  I 
am,  that  the  case  involves  a  serious  A-iolation  of  the  first  principles  of 
justice. 

"  The  case  of  the  Basutos  is  briefly  this  : — 

"  In  the  year  1843,  the  colonial  Government  of  the  Cape  obtained 
boundary  Imes  between  the  native  tribes,  under  Moshesh,  Molitsana, 
Sikonyella,  and  others,  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  British  territory  on 
the  other.  Moshesh,  the  paramount  chief,  was  satisfied  with  the 
boundary  line,  so  far  as  it  affected  his  relations  ■with  the  colony  ;  so 
far  as  some  of  the  lines  aff'ected  his  relations  -with,  other  chiefs,  he  was 
not  so  satisfied  ;  but  that  does  not  affect  his  remonstrances  in  relation 
to  his  own  boundary  line,  as  now  changed  by  his  Excellency  Sir  Harry 
Smith. 

"  On  the  request  of  Sir  Peregrme  Maitland,  Moshesh,  subsequently 
to  the  arrangement  of  184:3,  gave  up  an  additional  piece  of  his  territory 
for  the  accommodation  of  British  subjects,  and  to  express  the  sincerity 
of  his  friendship  and  good-will  towards  the  British  Government. 

"But  by  a  new  arrangement  of  October  1849,  insisted  on  by  Sir 
H.  Smith,  Moshesh  is  deprived  of  a  large  and  valuable  section  of  his 
territory,  although  occupied  by  his  subjects  to  the  number  of  3000  or 
4000  at  least,  and  who  inhabit  some  sixty  or  eighty  villages.  And 
this  section  of  the  country,  acknowledged  by  the  treaty  of  1843  to 
belong  to  Moshesh  without  dispute,  is  taken  from  him  to  conciliate 
and  accommodate  a  small  number  of  Dutch  farmers  whom  Moshesh 
had  generously  permitted  to  reside  for  a  time  in  his  territory,  but  with 
the  distinct  understanding  that  they  had  no  claim  upon  the  land. 
Moshesh  has  been  compelled  to  sign  a  treaty  or  agreement  accepting 
of  this  new  arrangement,  by  measures  that  reflect  no  honour  on  the 
British  name.  Some  old  feuds  subsisted  between  Moshesh  and 
Sikonyella.  Sir  Harry  Smith  interposed  his  authority,  and  most 
humanely,  as  I  think,  insisted  on  both  and  all  parties  abstaining 
from  mutual  war,  and  referring  their  disputes  to  him.  Major  Warden, 
Resident  at  Bloem  Fontein,  summoned  a  meeting  of  chiefs  to  adjust 
their  mutual  difference,  and  promised  a  '  safe  conduct'  during  their 
coming  and  returning,  and  severely  threatened  to  punish  all  disturbers 


Q52  CASE  OF  MOSHESH. 

of  the  peace.  Sikonyella,  lioAvovcr,  attacked  the  country  of  Moshesh, 
plundered  much  property,  and  destroyed  much  life.  The  latter 
appealed  to  Major  Warden,  and  was  then  told,  that  if  he  would  sign 
the  new  arrangement  (wliich  deprives  him  of  so  much  of  his  country), 
measures  should  be  employed  to  withdraw  the  invaders.  To  save  his 
country  from  further  devastation,  and  his  people  fiom  m\irder,  he 
signed  the  document,  but  protests  against  tliis  flagrant  breach  of  faith 
on  the  part  of  the  English,  this  violation  of  the  treaty  of  1843,  and 
this  wholesale  robbery  of  his  country. 

Moshesh,  who  has  been  our  most  faithful  ally  ever  since  our  first 
connexion  with  him,  can  obtain  no  redress  either  from  the  Resident, 
Major  Warden,  or  from  SirH.  G.  Smith.  At  his  Tirgent  solicitation, 
I  therefore  bring  his  case  under  youj  Lordship's  attention.  I  have 
stated  as  briefly  as  possible  the  broad  facts  of  the  case,  and  I  am 
certain  they  could  be  substantiated  on  the  spot,  should  your  Lordship 
judge  it  expedient  to  appoint  a  Commission  of  Liqidry  and  Arrange- 
ment. 

"These  measiu-es  of  Sir  Harry  Smith  in  reference  to  the  Basutos 
me,  I  think,  to  be  deprecated  for  the  following  reasons  : — 

"  1.  They  are  essentially  and  radically  unjust.  They  involve,  in 
plain  terms,  the  robbery  of  a  large  section  of  country  belonging  to  a 
friendly,  deserving,  but  defenceless  people.* 

"  2.  They  are  ungenerous  and  cruel.  The  Basutos  have  been  our 
faithful  allies,  whether  in  relation  to  Kaffir  wars  or  the  rebellion  of  the 
Boers.  Facts  much  to  the  honour-  of  Moshesh  and  his  people  have 
been  communicated  to  Her  Majesty's  Government  by  Sir  H.  Smith 
and  his  predecessors,  and  are  ah-eady  published  in  papers  relatuig  to 
South  Africa,  and  laid  before  the  House  of  Commons. 

"  3.  They  are  impolitic.  The  colony  of  the  Cape  requires  on  its 
borders  (whether  the  feeling  of  the  Kaffijs  or  the  Boers  be  contem- 
plated) decided  and  warm-hearted  allies.  The  measures  of  Sir  H. 
Smith  have  not  only  rendered  the  Basutos  cold  and  suspicious, — 


*  Sir  H.  Smith  assured  me,  in  reply  to  this  charge,  that  the  Basutos 
had  territory  enough,  without  the  section  taken  from  them.  This  is 
not  true  in  fact,  and  though  it  were,  it  is  not  a  justification  of  our 
measures — J.  J.  F. 


LETTKK  FROM  SIB  H.  SMITH.  253 

they  have  irritated,  goaded,  and  maddened  them  with  vexation  and 
disgust. 

"4.  They  are  unnecessary.  The  farmers  might  have  been  remedied 
and  provided  for  elsewhere ;  or,  if  permitted  to  remain,  a  small 
portion  of  country  could  have  been  obtained  for  them  from  these  very 
Basutos,  by  treaty  and  amicable  arrangement,  including  fair  compen- 
sation. (This  same  remark  applies  to  the  case  of  the  Griquas;  the 
territory  which  we  really  required  we  could  have  obtained  without 
violence,  violation  of  treaty,  and  injustice.) 

"  It  is  not  too  late  to  do  justice,  and  to  satisfy  the  fail-  claims  of 
these  injured  tribes. 

"  The  annexed  outline  of  a  map  will  show  the  extent  of  land  taken 
fi'om  the  Basutos,  I  submit,  that  the  original  boundary  line  of  1843 
should  yet  be  adhered  to.  Farmers  who  might  be  removed,  by  restoring 
the  land  to  Moshesh,  could  be  provided  for  abundantly  in  the  yet  un- 
occupied portion  of  the  British  Sovereignty,  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Harrismith,  where  the  land  is  excellent  and  a  population  required. 

"  I  have,  &c., 
"London  Missionary  Society,  "JOS,  JOHN  FREEMAN, 

"  Blonifield-street,  Finsbiiry,  London," 

The  following  is  a  copy  of  a  letter  from  Sir  H.  Smith, 
addressed  to  Earl  Grey,  in  reply  to  my  letter  of  20th  May, 
1850,  forwarded  to  him  by  his  Lordship,  4th  September, 
I  presume  that,  when  His  Excellency  forwarded  this  rejily, 
he  had  not  received  my  letter  dated  20th  August,  1850, 
and  which  was  sent  to  him  by  Eai4  Grey  on  the  28th  of 
November, 

[No,  III.  Copy.] 

Copy  of  a  Despatch  from  Governor  SirH,  G,  Smith  to  Earl  Grey. 

"  King  William's  Town,  Kaffvaria, 

'■'■January  20,  1851, 

"My  Lord,—  (Received  March  13, 1851.) 

"I  have  the  honour  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  Lordship's 

Despatch,  No.  51G,  of  the  4th  September  last,  transmitting  the  copy 

of  a  letter  addi-essed  to  you  by  the  Rev.  J.  Freeman,  Secretary  to  the 


i254  SIR  H.  smith's  vindication. 

London  Missionary  Society,  containing  strictures  upon  my  procedure 
in  having  proclaimed  the  Sovereignty  of  Her  Majesty  beyond  the 
Orange  River  and  up  to  the  Vaal.  My  continued  movements  in 
British  Kafiraria  have  prevented  me  from  forwarding  an  early  reply. 

"  2.  Mr.  Freeman  admits  the  general  soundness  of  the  policy 
pursued,  but  objects  to  the  manner  in  which  it  has  been  carried  out. 
Judging  of  this  gentleman  by  his  proceedings  while  travellijig  in  this 
colony,  I  may  here  remark  that,  like  all  prejudiced  men,  he  seeks  for 
e\idence  to  strengthen  his  ov,ii  preconceptions,  and  loses  sight  of  the 
general  bearing  and  \iew  of  the  subjects  upon  which  he  has  so  freely 
commented.  For  this  he  has  been  severely  criticised  by  the  frontier 
press. 

"3.  Upon  my  arrival  at  Bloem  Fontem,  in  the  begiiming  of  1848,1 
foiind  that  much  ill-will  existed  between  the  Boers  and  the  Griquas, 
with  reference  to  a  subject  brought  previously  before  your  Lordship, 
that  of  the  leases  of  forty  years,  upon  which  tenure  the  former  held 
their  lands  from  the  latter  in  the  'inalienable'  part  of  the  country. 
Your  Lordship  is  aware  that,  by  Sir  P.  Maitland's  treaty  with  Adam 
Kok,  confirmed  by  Her  Majesty,  the  territory  occupied  by  that  chief 
was  divided  into  two  portions,  the  '  alienable'  and  '  inalienable.' 

"4.  I  must  here  assure  your  Lordship,  that  Captain  Adam  Kok 
and  his  followers  are  mere  squatters,  and  have  no  more  hereditary  right 
to  the  coiintry  in  question  than  the  Boers  themselves,  who  have  been 
in  the  habit,  for  many  years,  for  the  sake  of  pastui'age,  of  driving 
their  herds  and  flocks  over  the  Orange  Kiver. 

"5.  After  mature  deliberation,  and  havmg  consulted  with  Adam 
Kok,  ^\ith  the  Boers,  and  with  all  the  native  chiefs,  I  proclaimed  Her 
Majesty's  sovereignty,  in  order  to  establish  a  paramomit  authority  in 
this  debatable  territory.  Li  this  measure,  the  great  principle  by 
which  I  was  guided  was,  that  all  the  inhabitants,  white  and  coloured, 
shoiild  continue  in  possession  of  the  farms  and  the  territory  occupied 
by  them  at  the  date  of  my  proclamation  ;  but  as  serious  disputes 
had  constantly  arisen  with  respect  to  boundai'ies,  I  determined,  by 
the  voice  of  general  acclamation,  to  establish  defined  Hmits,  and  so 
put  an  end  to  these  continual  and  pernicious  quarrels.  Iii  carrying 
this  into  effect,  it  was  unavoidably  necessary,  in  consequence  of  the 
Dutch  and  the  natives  beiag  much  internuxed,  to  displace  occasionally 


SIR  H.  SMITH  S  VINDICATION.  255 

the  inliabitants  contiguous  to  the  border,  and  cause  them  to  retu-e  to 
their  own  side  of  it.  In  some  instances  the  Boers,  in  others  the  natives, 
were  obliged  to  give  way ;  but  Air.  Freeman's  general  assertion,  that  a 
quantity  of  territory  was  taken  from  the  latter  for  the  sake  of  the 
former,  is  quite  mifoimded.  Captain  Adam  Kok's  territory  was 
preserved  to  him  as  it  then  stood,  as  regards  both  the  '  alienable'  and 
'  inalienable'  portions.  I  never  interfered  with  the  latter  in  the 
most  remote  degree.  The  cliief  himself  suggested,  that  after  the 
expiration  of  the  forty-years  leases  in  liis  '  inalienable'  territory,  the 
Boers  might  purchase  fi-om  his  people  a  future  right,  upon  the  con- 
ditions set  forth  in  my  additional  treaty  transmitted  to  your  Lordship, 
This  was  Adam  Kok's  own  proposal,  and  as  it  met  the  -nishes  of  the 
Boers,  who  were  most  desirous  to  possess  their  farms  in  perpetuity,  it 
was  agreed  to,  on  the  understanding  that  £300  a-year  should  be  paid 
by  Government  to  the  Griqua  chief.  This  arrangement  was  regarded 
at  the  moment  by  all  parties  as  most  satisfactory  :  and  was  certainly 
advantageous  to  Adam  Kok,  inasmuch  as,  by  his  treaty  with  Sir 
Peregrine  Maitland,  he  was  merely  entitled  to  a  portion  of  the  quit- 
rents  collected  ;  his  share  amoiintmg  (as  far  as  my  memory  serves  me, 
for  I  have  no  docimient  here  to  refer  to)  to  about  £G0  for  one  half  year, 
and  £70  for  another  similar  period.  He  drew,  in  addition,  and  still 
di-aws,  £100  per  annum  from  the  Colonial  Government,  and  is  thus 
In  receipt  of  £400  per  annum.  I  am  not  aware  that  the  infrmgemcnt 
of  a  treaty,  mutually  agreed  to  by  the  parties  concerned,  and  confer- 
ring a  benefit  upon  each  of  them,  can  be  regarded  as  objectionable, 
and  in  this  case,  the  advantage  was  mutual  to  the  Griqua  as  well  as 
to  the  Boer.  Adam  Kok  was  at  the  time  perfectly  satisfied  with  the 
aiTangement,  and  continued  to  be  so  ujitil  some  months  afterwards, 
when  his  Missionary,  as  I  am  informed,  told  him  that  I  had  mfringcd 
the  treaty;  failing,  however,  to  point  out  at  the  same  time  the  ad- 
vantages which  he  derived  in  consequence.  He  subsequently  dis- 
missed his  coimcillor  and  Secretary,  Ilendrik  Hendriks,  because  he 
was  favom-able  to  the  procedure  in  question,  and  likewise  advocated 
the  wish  of  the  Boers  to  purchase  a  right  in  perpetuity  from  the 
people  in  the  '  inalienable'  territory.  The  Boers  recently  arranged 
with  the  Griqua  people  for  the  purchase  of  a  piece  of  land  for  the  site 
of  a  church,  but  to  this  Adam  Kok  also  objected. 


Q56  sin  H.  SMITU's  VINDICATION. 

"  6.  TNTien  society  consists  of  the  heterogenous  elements  of  which 
it  is  composed  beyond  the  Orange  River,  and  when  opposite  interests 
prefer  conflicting  claims,  that  course  is  the  best  which  contributes  most 
to  the  general  good.  The  great  principle  which  guided  me  was,  as  I 
have  already  stated,  not  to  disturb,  but  clearly  to  define  the  existing 
occupation  ;  and  my  arrangement  has  consequently  improved  the 
condition  of  all.  "With  regard  to  Moshesh,  that  chief  has  been 
deprived  of  no  part  of  his  territory  ;  its  limits  have  merely  been  estab- 
lished, a  measure  tending  as  much  to  his  own  protection  as  to  that  of 
others.  Mr.  Freeman  is  in  error  "when  he  asserts  that  injustice 
attaches  to  any  part  of  my  procedure.  He  admits  the  general  principle 
to  be  advantageous  and  correct. 

"7.  I  cannot  refrain,  my  Lord,  from  adding,  that  if  reverend 
gentlemen  in  the  position  of  Mr.  Freeman  would  take  a  comprehen- 
sive and  not  a  contracted  and  prejudiced  \iew  of  matters  affecting  the 
objects  of  their  Mission,  a  greater  degree  of  benefit  would  arise  to  the 
parties  whom  their  laudable  exertions  are  intended  to  civilize. 

"  8.  With  reference  to  the  last  paragraph  of  ilr.  Freeman's  letter 
to  your  Lordship,  I  would  beg  to  obser^'e,  that  the  principle  there  set 
forth  is  that  by  which  I  have  for  years  been  actuated  in  my  inter- 
course with  native  races.  The  recent  conduct  of  these  incorrigible 
savages,  the  Gaika  Kafiirs,  may  serve  to  demonstrate  how  far  'Mr.  Free- 
man and  myself  have  been  correct  in  our  views.  Xo  one,  I  imagine, 
will  be  prepared  to  assert,  that  since  our  occupation  of  British  Kaf&a- 
ria,  the  greatest  kindness  and  justice  have  not  marked  our  treatment 
of  the  Kaffirs.  Scarcely,  however,  had  they  emerged  from  the  evUs  and 
horrors  of  the  last  war,  when  they  commenced  in  the  most  treacher- 
ous and  cunning  manner  to  prepare  again  for  hostilities,  "which  they 
have  now  entered  upon,  accompanied  by  acts  which  the  most  merciless 
and  irreclaimable  savages  alone  could  perpetrate. 

"I  have,  &c., 
(Signed)  "  H.  G.  SMITH. 

"  The  Right  Hon.  Earl  Grey, 
"  &c.  &c.  &c." 


1 

The  passages  contained  in  the  above  letters,  respecting 
the  Basuto  country  and  its  chieftain,  Moshesh,  anticipate 


LEAVING  GRIQUA  COUNTKT.  257 

my  observations  respecting  them,  and  may  be  referred  to 
after  reading  the  chapter  entitled  "The  Basuto  Country." 
I  left  the  Griqua  Country,  not  with  feelings  of  unmixed 
satisfaction  and  confidence,  but  yet  more  impressed  in 
favour  of  the  people  than  I  had  expected  to  be.  I  think 
that  some  observations  to  their  disadvantage,  not  unfre- 
quently  made  respecting  them,  are  not  without  foundation; 
they  would  be  improved  by  a  larger  infusion  of  energy, 
industry,  simplicity,  and  humility.  Perhaps  they  will  be 
benefited  by  the  admixture  among  them  of  the  class  called 
apprentices — men  who  were  formerly  slaves  within  the 
colony,  or  the  descendants  of  such,  and  who  have  been 
trained  by  severe  discipline  to  habits  of  activity.  These 
bring  a  considerable  amount  of  intelligence  with  them,  and 
seem  likely  to  become  the  most  influential  portion  of  the 
community.  Some  are  already  possessed  of  considerable 
property,  and  being  sober  and  industrious  men,  they  will 
acquire  still  larger  property ;  and  I  think  it  not  unlikely 
that  they  will  become  the  principal  landholders  in  the 
independent  territory,  and  the  chief  means  of  resisting  the 
further  encroachments  of  Europeans  and  colonists  in  that 
direction. 


CHAPTEE    XII. 

BECHUANA  COUNTRY  AND  BECHUANA 
MISSIONS. 

Daniel's  kuil — kuruman  fountain^eev.  r.  moffat — village- 
mission   PREMISES GARDENS CHAPEL  —  MURDERS CHILDRE^ 

STOLEN DANGERS  TO  THE  ABORIGINES PRINTING  ESTABLISHMENI 

HAMHANA MISSION  COMMITTEE TRANSLATIONS NATIVE  TEACH- 
ERS  LAY     HELP ROUTE     TO     KOLOBENG MOTITO MIGRATOR! 

HABITS SITLAGOLE SUPERSTITION DRESS DESERT     COUNTRY— 

MATEBE CONGREGATION MATZILIKATZE SOUTH    AFRICAN    WARS 

WHOLESALE   MURDER MABOTSA THE  CHIEF    MOSELELE KHOO- 

DOO SERPENT  WORSHIP ENORMOUS  BOA-CONSTRICTOR KOLOBENC 

SECHELE. 

After  taking  leave  of  Mr.  Read,  now  on  his  return  tc 
Kat  River,  by  Avay  of  Raraah  and  Philippolis,  I  set  ou 
from  Griqua  Town  for  the  Kuruman  and  the  furthe: 
interior.  Mr.  Solomon  and  Mr.  Hughes  accompanied  me 
and  the  rather,  as  it  had  been  arranged  that  the  Trans 
Orange  River  Mission  Committee,  of  which  they  werl 
members,  should  meet  at  Kuruman  at  the  time  of  m;' 
visit,  thus  affording  us  the  opportunity  of  mutual  counsel 
and  deliberation.  We  bivouacked  the  first  night  at  : 
place  called,  from  the  quantity  of  mimosas  growing  then 
"the  Thorns."  The  next  day  we  reached  the  out-statioi 
called  "Daniel's  Kuil,"  or  den,  an  opening  of  small  dimer 
sions  in  a  limestone  rock.  The  people  have  here  a  sma 
building  that  serves  for  a  chapel  and  school-room.  Her 
is  a  good  spring,  and  about  forty  or  fifty  families  might  fin 
a  sufficient  supply  of  water.      Waterboer  purchased   th 


KURUMAN.  259 

spot  of  Berends  some  few  years  ago,  and  the  Missionary 
Society,  through  Mr.  Wright,  purchased  a  portion  of  it 
for  two  hundred  rix  dollars — £15,  for  the  uses  of  a  native 
teacher. 

The  second  day  after  this,  we  reached,  before  midday, 
the  Kuruman  fountain,  pouring  forth  a  noble  stream  of 
water,  and  which  is  then  conveyed  by  a  water-course  to 
Kuruman,  about  two  miles  distant.  Here  we  met  a  man 
called  Aaron,  formerly  a  slave,  but  who,  by  his  well-known 
integrity  and  industry,  was  able  to  bon^ow  money,  and 
redeem  himself  out  of  slavery.  By  the  same  means  he 
subsequently  paid  the  whole  debt ;  that  is,  he  purchased 
himself,  and  paid,  honestly  paid  the  ransom  price,  and  he 
has  now  a  comfortable  residence,  and  a  good  jiiece  of  cul- 
tivated land. 

We  reached  the  Mission  village  of  Kuruman  about  midday, 
and  found  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Moffat  ready  to  give  us  a  cordial 
welcome.  They  had  only  one  member  of  their  family  at 
home,  who  has  since  then  become  Mrs.  Fredoux,  of 
Motito.  Mr.  Fredoux  is  a  Missionary  from  the  Paris 
Missionaiy  Society.  We  found  that  Mr.  Helraore,  of  Lekat- 
long,  a  man  of  much  excellence  and  amiability,  had  arrived, 
but  that  neither  of  the  other  Missionaries  was  expected. 
Dr.  Livingston  was  too  far  distant,  and  had  lately  been 
much  from  home.  His  cattle  also  were  all  exhausted  with 
the  journey  to  the  Lake.  Messrs.  Edwards  and  Inglis  did 
not  come,  and  Mr.  Pioss  was  unable  to  leave  home.  The 
members  of  the  jNIissiou  Committee  present,  were,  there- 
fore, Messrs.  Moflat,  Hamilton,  and  Ashton,  all  of  Kuru- 
man, with  Messrs.  Helmoi'e,  Solomon  and  Hughes. 

The  village  has  a  very  pleasing  appearance.  The  Mis- 
sion premises,  with  the  walled  gardens  opposite  to  them, 
form  a  wide  and  long  street.  The  chapel  is  an  excellent 
stone  building,  and  does  the  Missionaries  great  credit.  It 
will  last  many  years  to  come.  Mr.  Moffat's  house  is  near 
it,  on  one  side :  a  pleasant  residence,  such  as  I  could  wish 
every  Missionaiy  enjoyed; — not  destitute  of  comforts,  nor 


2 CO  SUNDAY  AT  KURUMAN. 

adorned  for  show.  Mr.  Hamilton's  residence,  on  the  other 
side  of  the  chapel,  is  now  occupied  by  Mr.  Ashton ;  and 
Mr.  Hamilton,  who  is  extremely  feeble,  occupies  a  small 
cottage  on  Mr.  Moffat's  premises,  and  finds,  in  the  mater- 
nal care  of  Mrs.  MolTat,  a  solace  in  his  declining  days.  I 
found  him  in  a  calm  and  happy  state  of  mind.  He  regards 
his  work  as  done,  and  he  is  "waiting  with  his  loins  girded" 
for  the  summons  that  shall  call  him  to  his  rest. 

The  gardens  are  well  stocked  with  fruit  trees, — apricots, 
peaches,  pomegranates,  apples,  vines,  &c.,  and  with  various 
kinds  of  vegetables.  These  require  a  large  supply  of 
water,  and  the  fountain  yields  that  supply.  Thus  some 
few  comforts  are  obtained  by  the  Mission  families,  not  a 
little  needed  in  these  distant  regions  of  South  Africa. 

On  the  Sunday  which  I  spent  there,  the  weather  was 
most  delightful.  Soon  after  simrise  a  bell  rang  for  an 
early  service.  ^Ye  breakfasted  at  seven.  At  half-past 
eight  the  schools  commenced.  The  infant  school,  under 
Miss  Moffat's  care,  met  in  the  infant  school-house,  and 
several  classes  met  in  groups  in  the  open  air,  round  the 
chapel  and  school,  and  others  within  those  buildings.  All 
were  busily  engaged  for  above  an  hour,  when  public  ser- 
vice commenced.  The  chapel  is  spacious,  lofty  and  airy. 
Many  of  the  people  were  decently  and  comfortably  dressed, 
and  the  whole  aspect  of  the  congregation  was  encouraging  : 
a  striking  proof  of  the  practical  value  of  continued  Chris- 
tian effort  among  a  people.  School  was  again  held,  and 
public  service  at  half-past  two ;  the  congregations  were 
good  throughout  the  day. 

On  one  side  of  the  chapel,  and  near  the  door,  sat  a  man, 
a  stout,  elderly,  and  intelligent  looking  man,  who,  with  a 
few  attendants,  had  come  from  a  long  distance,  say  two 
hundred  miles  east  of  Lekatlong,  on  a  visit  to  Mr.  Moffat, 
and  to  state  the  difficult  circumstances  in  which  the  people 
of  his  district  were  being  placed.  He  related,  that  some 
time  since,  a  party  of  armed  Boers  came  and  demanded  of 
the  chief  the  orphans  who  might  be  there.     The  people 


MURDERS.  261 

affirmed  that  they  had  none  who  were  friendless  and  des- 
titute, since  all  orphans  were  taken  care  of  by  some  of  the 
friends  and  relatives  of  the  deceased  parents.  After  much 
altercation,  and  the  steady  refusal  of  the  chief  to  give  up 
the  orphans,  the  Boers  demanded  the  children  of  the  people. 
The  mothers  ran  to  hide  their  children ;  the  Boers  began 
to  seize  them  and  put  them  in  their  wagons ;  the  men  in- 
terfered; the  Boers  fired,  and  in  the  I'esult  most  of  the 
men  were  killed  defending  tlieir  families,  and  the  wagons 
were  loaded  with  the  children  and  driven  off  as  booty! 
Against  such  outrages  there  seems  no  relief.  The  natives 
cannot  withstand  the  power  and  fire-arms  of  the  Boei'S ; 
and  the  latter  are  too  far  away,  too  numerous,  and  too 
scattered,  to  respect  the  remonstrances  of  the  British 
Government,  even  supposing  the  latter  in  earnest  in 
checking  such  unjust  and  cruel  proceedings.  Bv;t  by  such 
proceedings,  many  of  the  aboriginal  tribes  of  South  Africa, 
IB  all  these  extensive  regions  which  have  been  taken  forci- 
ble possession  of  by  the  Boers,  are  diminishing,  being  in 
the  first  instance  reduced  to  slavery,  and  must  ultimately 
perish,  unless  timely  aid  be  afforded.  The  natives  become 
hemmed  in ;  they  are  surrounded  by  Boers  ;  their  lands 
get  occupied  by  strangers ;  they  are  compelled  to  submit 
to  new  and  oppressive  laws ;  aggressions  are  made,  reta- 
liations arise,  and  at  last  the  natives  are  cut  off.  It  is 
often  impossible  to  define  the  exact  limits  within  which 
such  things  are  done,  or  the  parties  by  whom  they  are 
committed.  But  the  territory  is  large,  very  large,  and  the 
tribes  are  numerous,  where  these  melancholy  events  are 
transpiring.  It  might  be  worth  the  exercise  of  all  the 
wisdom  and  humanity  of  the  British  Parliament  to  find 
some  remedy.  But  at  present  it  appears  to  me,  that  the 
prospects  of  the  coloured  races  of  South  Africa,  taken  on 
the  broadest  scale,  are  such  as  Christian  philanthropy  may 
weep  over.  I  see  no  prospect  of  their  preservation  for 
any  very  longtliened  period.  The  struggle  may  last  for  a 
considerable  time.     Missionary  effort  may  not  only  save 


26!2  VILLAGE  NEAR  KUKUMAN. 

many  of  the  souls  of  men,  but  help  to  defer  the  evil  day  of 
annihilation,  as  to  many  of  the  aboriginal  tribes  ;  but  that 
annihilation  is  steadily  advancing,  and  nothing  can  arrest 
it  tcithout  an  entire  cliange  in  the  system  of  Government, 
wherever  British  subjects  come  in  contact  icith  the  native 
tribes.  To  act  in  all  cases  on  the  broad  principles  of 
justice,  "  to  do  unto  others  as  we  would  they  should  do 
unto  us,"  might  save  them  from  ruin.  But  that  supposes 
not  only  laiv  in  their  favour,  but  men  eveiywhere  appointed 
to  execute  law,  who  will  courageously  "defend  the  right," 
and  seek  out  the  cause  of  the  "poor  and  fatherless,"  and 
"save  the  souls  of  the  needy." 

I  visited,  of  course,  the  printing  and  bookbinding  estab- 
lishment at  Kuruman.  The  printing-office  is  an  excellent 
and  appropriate  building,  and  in  good  condition,  and  it 
appeared  to  me  to  be  well  managed.  Mr.  Moffat  has  had 
much  to  do,  till  lately,  in  printing  all  that  has  issued  from 
the  press.  For  the  future,  Mr.  Ashton  will  take  the  super- 
intendence of  it,  and  Mr.  Moffat  devote  his  time  and 
energy  to  the  translation  and  revision  of  the  Scriptures. 

A  second  Sunday  which  I  spent  in  this  neighbourhood, 
I  passed  at  the  village  of  Hamhana,  usually  described  in 
the  Society's  Report  as  an  out-station  among  the  Batlaros, 
about  twelve  miles  from  Kuruman. 

A  large  number  of  the  villagers  had  assembled  near  the 
chapel,  many  of  them  evidently  in  their  heathen  state,  and 
making  no  profession  of  Christianity.  I  sujDposed  that 
these  would  constitute  the  congregation,  and  that  they 
were  only  waiting  for  our  arrival.  But  to  my  surprise  and 
gratification,  on  entering  the  chapel,  I  found  it  already/ 
full,  and  the  native  teacher  holding  some  catechetical 
exercises.  There  must  have  been  at  least  two  hundred 
to  two  hundred  and  fifty  natives  present.  Many  of  the 
rest  from  the  outside  squeezed  in,  and  found  room  where 
there  seemed  no  vacant  space  ;  others  remained  about  the 
doors,  and  listened  to  the  word  of  truth.  It  seems  that 
not  fewer  than  one  hundred  of  the  members  of  the  church 


COMMITTEES.  263 

at  Kuruman  reside  here.  Before  I  left,  one  of  the  princi- 
pal people,  and  who  acts  as  native  teacher,  came,  and  ex- 
pressed their  desire  to  have  a  Missionary  settled  among 
them,  and  a  better  place  of  worship  built.  This  latter 
point  I  had  pressed  on  them  in  my  address.  My  im- 
pression certainly  was,  that  there  were  materials  enough 
for  the  labour  of  a  Missionary;  and  that,  if  one  could  be 
stationed  there,  the  prospect  of  extensive  usefulness  was 
cheering ;  and  that,  without  such  a  plan,  there  could  be  no 
great  improvement  effected,  as  the  Missionaries  at  the  Kuru- 
man can  do  little  for  them,  beyond  a  Sabbath-morning  ser- 
vice, and  an  occasional  visit,  and  the  people  require  the  con- 
stant 2^  resence,  influence,  and  efforts,  of  a  resident  Missionary. 

During  my  visit  to  Kuruman,  we  met  frequently  in 
committee,  and  amply  discussed  all  the  various  points  of 
business  that  came  suitably  under  our  consideration. 
These  I  need  not  I'elate  here.  They  formed  the  basis  of 
my  communications  with  the  Directors  of  the  Missionary 
Society,  and  will  tend,  I  think,  to  the  comfort  of  the  Mis- 
sionaries, and  the  progress  of  the  great  work  which  they 
have  in  hand.  One  regulation  was  adopted,  which  I  think 
will  be  beneficial, — namely,  the  separation  of  the  Committee 
into  two  divisions,  one  embracing  the  Missionaries  identi- 
fied with  the  Bechuanas,  and  the  other  those  identified 
with  the  Griquas.  This  will  simplify  the  objects  of  their 
attention  respectively,  and  save  much  undesirable  expen- 
diture of  time  in  travelling,  and  the  absence  of  the  Mis- 
sionaries from  their  stations. 

Thus  closed  my  visit  to  Kuruman.  The  congregation 
was  rather  smaller  than  on  some  other  stations,  but  the 
field  is  important.  It  is  the  recognized  home  and  centre 
of  many  families  of  Christian  B(3chuanas  ;  it  is  an  appro  • 
priate  sphere  altogether  for  Mr.  Moff'at,  especially  in  re- 
lation to  his  department  of  translation — the  translation  of 
the  Scriptures,  with  which  a  more  extensive  pastorate 
would  be  incom])atible,  even  thougli  he  had  the  aid  of 
other  brother  Missionaries.     Kuruman  is  the  hit'h  road  to 


264  NATIVE  TEACHERS. 

the  interior,  and  is  a  source  of  influence  in  numerous 
directions.  It  must  therefore,  I  think,  he  encouraged  and 
vigorously  maintained.  Mr.  Ashton  and  Mr.  Moffat  co- 
operate cordially  as  fellow-lahourers.  In  the  course  of 
five  or  seven  years,  it  is  likely  that  another  Missionary  w^ill 
be  required  for  the  station.  Mr.  Hamilton  is  already  past 
labour,  and  Mr.  Ashton  will  be  required  for  the  local 
sen'ices,  including  the  printing.  Mr.  Moffat's  time  may 
be  most  advantageously  directed  to  translation,  and  he 
should  be  exempted  from  the  service  of  itinerating,  which 
involves  a  great  outlay  of  time.  Constant  effort  must  also 
be  expended  in  training  youths,  with  the  hope  that  some 
of  them  may  become  native  teachers.  Of  this  latter  class 
there  are  scarcely  any  at  present,  such  as  would  meet  the 
wishes,  views,  and  expectations  of  the  churches  and  Di- 
rectors at  home  ;  few  of  general  intelligence,  combined 
with  scrijjtural  knowledge,  possessing  the  art  of  reading 
well,  and  having  the  power  and  skill  to  communicate 
spiritual  knowledge  to  others.  I  fear  there  is  little 
prospect,  at  present,  of  theological  students  being  found. 
There  are  no  young  men  in  the  churches  to  whom  this 
description  can  apjDly.  There  are  young  men  in  the 
churches,  but  they  are  for  the  most  part  married,  and 
busy  with  their  secular  interests,  and  unwilling  to  give 
up  these  for  the  work  of  teaching.  They  are  neither  in- 
tellectually, socially,  nor  spiritually  qualified  to  become 
students,  with  the  view  to  their  becoming  native  teachers 
and  evangelists:  It  appears  to  me  that  the  whole  work 
of  such  preparation  must  be  commenced  and  carried  on,  with 
that  view,  from  the  very  beginning.  TnteUigent  lads  must  be 
secured,  if  practicable,  and  trained  up  in  general  and 
religious  knowledge  from  childhood,  mider  the  immediate 
care  and  guidance  of  the  Missionary.  The  Mission  pre- 
mises must  be  their  home  ;  they  must  be  secluded  not  only 
from  the  heathen  portion  of  the  community,  but  from  their 
home,  habits,  customs,  and  occupations,  even  though  the 
parents  may  be  Christians,  lest  they  imbibe  that  love  of  a 


LAY  AGENCY.  265 

life  amidst  flocks  and  herds,  by  which  all  the  natives 
seem  animated.  It  may  be  important  also  to  consider,  as 
a  means  of  aiding  the  evangelization  of  South  Africa  by 
native  effort,  whether  some  considerable  native  assistance 
may  not  be  found  among  the  senior  members  of  the  churches, 
men  whose  piety  is  tried  and  fomid  stedfast,  whose  gene- 
ral intelligence  and  character  may  justify  their  being  so 
employed,  and  on  whom  the  Missionary  may  successfully 
employ  some  special  effort,  still  further  to  qualify  them 
for  the  service,  although  it  may  be  impracticable  to  bring 
them  under  a  regular  course  of  tuition,  such  as  might  be 
contemplated  for  students.  Such  men  have  been  sent 
forth  by  the  churches  in  the  South  Sea  Islands  ;  such 
have  been  found  in  India;  such  are  a  few  I  have  met 
with  here  in  South  Africa,  and  such  an  one  was  our 
martyred  friend  Paul,  in  Madagascar.  These  men  may 
experience  difficulty  in  learning  to  read,  if  their  conver- 
sion takes  place  in  adult  age,  and  if  they  have  then  to 
commence  the  art  of  reading.  But  however  imperfectly 
they  may  succeed,  it  may  still  be  worth  while  to  secure 
their  services,  and  to  employ  them  as  far  they  can  be 
made  available.  Teachers  in  the  schools,  or  senior 
scholars  in  the  schools,  may  read  for  them,  where  they 
fail  themselves  in  doing  it.  Their  visits,  their  conversa- 
tions, and  their  addresses,  may  all  be  extensively  useful, 
even  though  unable  to  read  fluently  themselves.  Their 
experience,  their  deportment,  their  piety,  their  simple 
statements,  may  all  render  great  service  in  the  cause,  and 
they  may  prepare  the  way  for  others  ;  just  as  in  the  islands 
of  the  South  Seas,  of  which  Mangaia  forms  so  striking  an 
illustration  of  the  value  and  efficiency  of  these  labourers. 

The  next  stage  of  my  journey  was  to  Kolobeng,  the 
station  occupied  by  Dr.  Livingstone,  and  at  present  the 
most  northern  of  our  stations  in  South  Africa.  I  had 
received  letters  from  Dr.  Livingstone,  pressing  on  nio  not 
to  consider  my  visit  completed,  till  I  reached  as  far  as 
Kolobeng;    and   having   resolved   on  proceeding   thither, 


266  UEV.  R.  MOFFAT. 

arrangements  were  made  for  tlie  purpose.  I  was  glad  I 
succeeded  in  prevailing  on  Mr.  Mofiat  to  accompany  me. 
I  knew  that  his  doing  so  would  render  my  journey  not 
only  the  more  agi'eeable,  on  account  of  his  companionable 
qualities,  but  the  more  useful,  from  his  familiar  acquaint- 
ance with  the  people,  and  the  value  of  his  extensive  in- 
fluence. And  haj^pily,  while  he  himself  was  nothing 
loath  to  meet  my  wishes,  though  involving  an  absence  of 
some  three  months  from  his  home,  his  excellent  wife 
cheerfully  assented  to  the  arrangement,  and  admirably 
provided  for  our  comfort  with  bread  and  meal,  and  pre- 
served fruits,  such  as  do  not  fall  to  the  lot  of  every  African 
traveller.  Their  daughter  Ann  was  to  accompany  her 
father  in  his  wagon,  and  though  South  Africa  is  not  the 
most  inviting  country  in  the  world  for  ladies  to  travel  in, 
their  society  and  their  senices  are  not  the  less  acceptable 
to  those  of  the  harder  sex  who  happen  to  be  favoui-ed  with 
them. 

We  outspanned  the  first  evening  about  seventeen  miles 
from  Kuruman,  at  Makkwarrin,  and  finished  the  rest  of 
the  journey  to  Motito  the  next  day,  being  a  stage  of  twenty- 
three  miles  further.  This  is  a  station  in  connexion  with 
the  Paris  Missionary  Society.  There  were  formerly  two 
of  their  Missionaries  stationed  here,  Messrs.  Lemue  and 
Lauga.  These  have  removed  to  Carmel,  in  the  Easuto 
Country.  The  chapel  holds  about  two  hundred.  About 
one  hundred  persons  assembled  at  an  early  hour,  to  hear 
an  address  from  us.  I  pressed  on  them  the  necessity  of 
guarding  against  their  restless  habit  of  emigrating  from 
place  to  place  in  quest  of  new  localities.  They  get  tired 
of  a  place  without  any  specific  reason,  just  as  men  get 
tired  of  objects  they  are  familiar  with.  They  then  "  trek," 
set  out  on  a  journey,  taking  their  families,  flocks,  and 
herds  with  them,  and  wander  about  to  great  distances.  In 
this  way  the  village  of  Motito  was  almost  abandoned. 
Four  small  kraals,  or  villages,  constitute  its  range  of 
population.     Mr.  Fi-edoux  was  expecting  that  the  peopk 


CHANGES  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA.  267 

wlio  had  emigrated  from  Motito  would  return,  not  finding 
the  new  and  unoccupied  country  which  they  anticipated. 
The  Boers  are  before  them,  and  the  land  is  occupied. 
This  immense  emigration  of  the  Boers,  far  beyond  the 
(•(ilonial  boundary,  is  evidently  working  out  a  great  change 
in  all  the  interior  of  South  Africa,  and  it  bears  very  gravely 
on  the  question  of  Missions  among  the  native  tribes.  It 
places  every  measure  in  perplexity  and  difficulty,  in  con- 
nexion with  the  prosecvition  of  Missions  there.  Tribe 
after  tribe  is  swept  away,  and  the  labour  of  the  Missionary 
is  lost.  By  the  time  the  Missionary  may  have  succeeded 
in  bringing  the  people  under  the  influence  of  instruction, 
they  are  hemmed  in  by  the  Boers,  their  country  and  re- 
sources become  more  and  more  limited,  they  are  driven  to 
desperation,  and  then  either  emigrate,  scatter  themselves 
from  one  another,  and  are  lost,  or  they  quarrel  with  their 
invaders  in  self-defence,  and  are  then  attacked  and  van- 
quished by  the  superior  arnls  and  skill  of  the  white  man. 
Of  this  fatal  process  many  instances  are  now  occurring ; 
and  I  again  say,  I  fear  thei*e  is  great  difficulty  and  greater 
unwillingness  on  the  part  of  Great  Britain,  though  really 
responsible  for  these  things,  in  attempting  anything  like 
adequate  interference. 

With  regard  to  Motito,  my  impression  certainly  was,  that 
if  it  continued  to  have  only  its  present  scanty  population, 
it  would  scarcely  be  worth  while  to  maintain  it  as  a  prin- 
cipal station. 

At  the  distance  of  about  six  days'  journey  from  Motito, 
there  are  some  populous  settlements  of  natives,  such  as 
Sitlagole,  of  which  Mochuana  is  chief.  The  people  are 
Barolongs.  Mr.  Lemue  was  in  the  habit  of  itinerating 
there.  But  to  visit  them  requires  an  absence  of  three 
weeks,  two  of  which  are  expended  in  travelling  there  and 
back  again,  and  one  in  remaining  witli  them.  At  a  station 
like  Motito,  where  there  is  but  one  Missionary,  this  scheme 
cannot  be  effected  without  the  neglect  of  the  principal 
station.     My  visit  to  Motito  strongly  confirmed  niv  idea 


208  SERVICE  BENEATH  A  MIMOSA. 

that  a  Missionary  planted  alone  among  the  heathen, 
especially  an  vmmarried  man,  could  do  hut  little  for  the 
improvement  of  the  population.  He  may  teach  a  few 
childi'en,  and  he  may  preach  on  the  Sabbath,  but  the  entire 
machinery  of  a  resident  Christian  family  is  wanted,  with 
all  its  social  influences.  The  Missionary  wife  is  required, 
for  the  sake  of  her  influence,  and  example,  and  instruction, 
for  the  native  women,  among  whom  an  unmarried  Mis- 
sionary can  have  no  influence.  I  should  suggest,  that 
wherever  a  station  is  not  sufficiently  important  to  justify  a 
Society  in  jDlacing  there  two  Missionaries,  and  at  any  rate 
one  of  them  a  married  man,  it  should  not  be  maintained, 
except  as  an  out-station  connected  with  some  more  im- 
portant sphere. 

From  Motito  we  travelled  foi-ward  to  Sitlagole,  in  the 
country  of  the  Barolongs.  Nearly  all  the  people  wear  the 
native  kaross.  A  few  have  some  articles  of  European 
clothing ;  the  children  have  so  little  of  either,  that  they 
could  not  have  less.  Mr.  Moff"at  addressed  them  in  the 
open  air,  from  beneath,  not  a  broad  spreading  English 
beech  or  oak,  but  a  large  mimosa,  in  an  enclosure  sur- 
rounded by  a  fence  of  dry  thorns.  About  two  hundred  of 
the  natives  collected  around,  and  sat  on  the  ground  and 
listened  attentively.  Their  countenances  are  good,  and 
indicate  a  capacity  for  intelligence.  Some  few  of  the  vil- 
lagers had  learned  to  read  the  New  Testament,  and  to  use 
the  Hymn  Book  in  the  Sichuana  language.  The  Baro- 
longs are  a  tribe  of  the  Bechuana  nation,  and  of  course 
use  the  Sichuana  language.  The  village  occupies  a  con- 
siderable space  of  ground.  Each  family  has  its  own  en- 
closure, a  circular  fence  of  thorn  sticks,  and  within  that 
the  hut,  round  and  low,  made  of  reeds,  with  a  roof  pro- 
jecting some  little  distance  beyond  the  props  that  support 
it.  The  natives  seem  rich  in  cattle,  and  cultivate,  I  under- 
stand, a  good  quantity  of  Indian  corn.  Their  supply  of 
water,  which  comes  up  through  a  bed  of  sandstone,  is 
sufficient  for  domestic  uses,  but  not  for  the  irrigation  of 


NATIVE  SUPERSTITION.  269 

land.  The  name  of  the  chief  is  Mochuana.  I  called, 
with  Mr.  Moffat,  to  see  him.  He  is  aged,  blind,  and  very- 
deaf.  He  is  much  respected,  and  has  been  a  man  of 
peace  ;  and  although  not  embracing  Christianity  himself, 
he  has  always  respected  and  encouraged  the  Missionaries. 
He  and  his  people  are  e.xtremely  superstitious  on  the 
subject  of  rain-making.  But  without  adequate  instruction 
how  can  it  be  otherwise  ?  How  can  they  hear  except  there 
be  a  preacher?  How  can  truth  reach  them  unless  from 
without?  They  cannot  deliver  their  own  soul,  nor  say,  "Is 
there  not  a  lie  in  my  right  hand?"  What  glorious  enter- 
prises of  humanity  and  mercy  may  the  Christian  church 
enter  on,  if  in  earnest ! 

An  anecdote  is  related  here  in  illustration  of  the  siiper- 
stition  of  the  people  in  all  matters  pertaining  to  rain.  It 
occurred  some  time  ago,  while  the  Eev.  Mr.  Lemue  was 
residing  here,  that  a  horse  died  at  the  village,  at  a  time 
when  rain  was  much  wanted.  Mr.  Lemue  very  properly 
had  the  carcase  of  the  animal  dragged  away  to  a  great 
distance,  to  avoid  the  evils  arising  from  its  putrefaction  in 
so  hot  a  climate.  This  act  became  a  matter  of  great  con- 
sultation, and  it  was  decided  in  some  way,  that  this  drag- 
ging to  a  distance  the  remains  of  the  dead  horse,  prevented 
the  rain  coming  ;  and  the  chief  above-named  actually  sent 
men,  with  leathern  cords,  to  drag  it  again  to  the  village, 
and  there  it  was  placed,  at  no  great  distance  from  Mr. 
Lemue's  house,  and  left  to  decay !  After  that,  I  presume 
rain  came,  but  how  soon  the  deponent  said  not.  The 
chieftain,  I  think,  as  a  man  of  common  sense,  must  have 
been  a  little  ashamed  of  it,  for  he  sent  a  message  to  Mr. 
Moffat,  some  time  after,  to  assure  him  it  was  not  his  doing, 
but  that  of  the  people. 

Several  of  the  people  in  this  part  of  the  country,  the 
women  especially,  have  their  hair  dressed,  or  rather  be- 
daubed and  beplastered,  with  the  glittering  material,  a  kind 
of  plumbago  mixed  with  grease,  of  which  Campbell, 
Moffat,  and  other  travellers,  have  given  an  account.     Of 


Q70  BECHUANA  FASHIONS. 

course  it  is  fashion,  and  purely  a  matter  of  taste.  For  me 
it  has  no  charms,  neither  fragrance  nor  beauty ;  but  to 
tliem,  I  presume,  it  has  many.  It  struclc  me  as  being 
about  as  admirable  a  custom  as  that  which  till  lately  pre- 
vailed in  polished  England  itself,  the  custom  of  dressing 
the  hair  with  "  powder  and  pomatum  ;"  the  white  powder 
would  seem  appropriate  to  a  white  population,  and  the 
black  powder  to  a  swarthy  population, — at  any  rate  more 
so  than  the  reverse  in  each  case  would  be. 

During  a  further  portion  of  the  journey,  we  found  no- 
thing worthy  of  notice  for  a  whole  day;  we  passed  no 
villages,  fountains,  streams,  nor  cultivated  lands  ;  no  huts, 
gardens,  flowers,  nor  fruits ;  neither  man,  nor  bird,  nor 
beast.  There  were  a  few  shrubs,  and  some  stunted  tufts 
of  grass.  A  more  indescribable,  desolate,  dreary,  and 
uninteresting  spot,  cannot  Avell  be  imagined, — utterly 
devoid  of  materials  for  the  poet,  and  little  for  the  philo- 
sopher— ex  nihilo  nihil  fit. 

After  halting  for  the  night,  we  again  started  on  our 
journey.  Heavy  rains  had  fallen  during  the  night,  and  the 
morning  was  fresh  and  cool.  Our  cattle  found  rain  water 
to  quench  their  thirst,  in  small  natural  hollows  on  the 
surface  of  the  granite  rock  over  which  we  were  passing. 
This  seems  to  be  all  a  granitic  country.  Usually  the  rock 
is  slightly  covered  with  a  small  quantity  of  soil,  a  kind  of 
reddish  sand,  but  for  a  large  extent,  it  is  the  bare  rock 
that  forms  the  surface.  We  passed  a  fine  block  of  syenite, 
about  fourteen  feet  high  and  four  feet  in  thickness.  Fel- 
spar predominates  here.  Much  of  the  granite  consists 
entirely  of  felspar  and  quartz.  There  is  also  micaceous 
schist. 

We  observed  immense  quantities  of  locusts  at  a  little 
distance  from  us,  and  large  flights  of  the  locust-bird  also, 
by  which  incredible  numbers  of  these  destructive  bisects 
are  consumed. 

We  found  all  this  immense  tract  of  countiy,  this  seem- 
ingly interminable  plain,  absolutely  and  literally  unoccu- 


PURCHASE  OF  DELAGOA  BAT.  271 

pied.  Here  is  space  enough  for  thousands,  provided 
water  could  be  found.  In  many  places  the  soil  is  rich,  in 
others  it  is  shallow  and  poor;  but  if  some  stream  or  canal 
could  be  led  out  from  the  Vaal,  thousands  of  acres  of  com 
might  be  cultivated,  and  thousands  of  an  impoverished 
population  find  subsistence.  The  Vaal  Eiver  flows  at 
about  five  days' journey  on  the  right  of  the  line  of  road  I 
was  now  passing  over.  On  our  left  there  were  no  inha- 
l)itants.  We  were  met  there  by  the  great  Kallaharri  desert, 
and  in  that  dry  and  thirsty  land  no  inhabitants  are  found. 
Our  direction  from  the  Kuruman  had  all  along  been  north- 
east. We  travelled  about  twenty  miles  daily,  occupying 
eight  hours  in  that  limited  transit ! 

It  has  sometimes  struck  me  whether  it  might  not  be  a 
great  benefit  to  Africa,  if  England  would  purchase  Delagoa 
Bay  from  the  Portuguese,  and  their  whole  line  of  coast  on 
the  east  of  Africa,  including  Mosambique.  It  might  also 
be  made  of  great  service  to  England.  We  should  thus  at 
once  open  a  friendly  communication  with  all  the  tribes  in 
the  interior  of  Eastern,  Central,  and  Southern  Africa.  This 
communication  might  be  extended  to  the  Great  Lake, 
lately  discovered,  and  the  tribes  bordering  on  it.  It  would 
enable  the  British  Government  also  to  exercise  its  influ- 
ence and  control  over  the  emigrant  Boers,  who  are  now 
spreading  themselves  so  widely  over  these  regions,  and 
destroying  so  many  native  tribes.  A  vast  field  would  thus 
be  opened  to  enterprise,  commerce,  humanity,  emigration, 
and  direct  Missionary  eff'ort. 

We  now  crossed  the  Malopo,  and  halted  for  the  night  at 
about  ten  miles'  distance  from  Raputse.  We  saw  the 
landmarks  (baken)  set  up  by  the  Boers,  north-east  of  the 
Malopo,  as  a  sign  of  their  claiming  all  the  land  within 
the  limit — one  step  in  the  process  of  dispossessing  the  abo- 
rigines of  their  territoi'}'. 

Next  day  Mr.  Moffat  and  I  separated  for  a  sliort  time. 
He  proceeded  direct  to  KololK,'ng,  and  I  arranged  to  take 
Matebe  and  Mabotsa  on  my  way. 


273  NATIVE  CUSTOMS. 

About  tliveo  miles  beyond  the  point  where  we  left  each 
other,  I  canie  to  a  hill,  crossed  the  sunnnit,  ivnd  lindins. 
tlie  descent  of  it  sharp,  stony,  and  difficult,  I  halte 
there  for  the  night,  and  knew,  from  the  barking  of  the 
village  watch-dogs,  I  could  be  at  no  great  distance  Iron 
Matebe.  Next  morning,  Mr  Inglis,  our  Missionary,  came 
up  to  our  encampment,  and  I  accompanied  him  back  to 
his  cottage.  The  village  consists  of  about  three  hundred 
huts.  It  has  been  but  lately  constructed,  and  is  similar  in 
character  to  that  of  Sitlagole.  Moiloi  is  the  chieftain,  a 
friendly,  sensible,  kind-hearted  man.  The  population  oi 
the  village  is  about  fifteen  hundred  ;  viz.,  three  hundred 
men,  six  hundred  women,  and  six  hundred  children.  Not 
more  than  about  twenty  children  attend  the  school.  It 
does  not  appear  that  Christianity  has  yet  obtained  any  in 
fluence  here.  The  chief,  however,  and  many  of  his  people, 
attend  the  public  worship  on  the  Sunday.  There  is  a 
small  class  of  young  men,  Hottentots  and  Bastaards,  who 
can  read  the  Dutch  Testament,  and  a  few  native  women 
read  the  Sichuana  Testament,  with  some  facility. 

During  the  public  services,  I  observed  a  few  only  of 
the  people  wearing  Eiu-opean  clothing.  Nearly  all  were 
clad  in  the  native  costumes — abundance  of  charms  and 
ornaments  round  the  neck,  beads,  necklaces,  armlets  and 
anklets — old  skins,  shaggy,  ragged,  and  torn,  over  their 
shoulders, — the  hair  plaited,  twisted,  gi'eased  and  sprinkled 
with  the  black  glittering  powder  of  which  they  seem  so 
fond — many  from  head  to  foot  rubbed  over  with  red 
ochre — none  washed — women  with  large  fur  caps  or  bon- 
nets, and  all  handling  jackal  tails  as  fans,  to  scatter 
the  flies,  so  tempted  and  lured  by  the  grease  of  their 
adorning. 

They  listened  attentively,  and  that  is  a  point  of  im- 
portance gained.  Not  long  since  they  were  all  noisy  and 
loquacious.  And  still  many  of  their  habits  require  not  a 
little  correction,  and  a  preacher  must  not  be  troubled 
with  too  much  refinement  of  scent,  or  he  may  be  greatly 


MAT?:rrjKATSE  ROUTED.  273 

annnj'od  and  ineommodoJ.     We  must  bear  patiently  with 
huKiiui  iiilinuities. 

Moiloi  is  the  chieftain  residing  here.  He  called  on  nie 
immediately  after  my  arrival,  and  1  had  o2')i)ortunities  of 
l(^n.L;l]iened  conversation  with  him.  He  accompanied  Mr. 
In,L;lis  and  m3'self  to  the  summit  of  the  adjoining  hill.  We 
went  to  obtain  a  view  of  the  surrounding  country,  and 
especially  the  range  of  hills  on  which  Mr.  Campbell  found 
the  town  called  Kurrecheene,  which  was  the  extreme  i)oint 
of  his  journey  northward.  That  town  has  disappeared. 
The  p('o2)lc  wei-e  attacked  and  routed  by  the  tribes  of  the 
Mantatees.  They  then  settled  near  the  Mosega,  and  were 
again  driven  from  thence  to  their  present  residence  by 
Matzilikatze,  who  for  a  long  period  spread  devastation 
throughout  all  this  region.  His  power  was  subsequently 
broken  by  the  attack  of  other  tribes  from  various  quarters, 
and  still  further  by  the  Boers,  on  whom  he  himself  had 
previously  made  attacks.  His  present  condition,  as  to 
numerical  strength,  T  could  not  ascertain.  He  was  still 
believed  to  be  powerful,  but  not  sutftciently  so,  to  enable 
him  to  attack  successfully  the  ti'ibcs  around  him.  The 
]>oers  claim  this  country  as  theirs,  including  the  Mosega, 
on  the  ground  of  having  driven  out  the  powerful  and 
tyrannical  Matzilikatse.  But,  even  admitting  that  driving 
out  a  common  enemy  gives  a  right  of  occupation,  the 
Boers  cannot  fairly  claim  it  for  themselves,  to  the  exclu- 
sion of  native  tribes,  who  have  had  their  full  share  in 
ivsisting,  and  ultimately  overcoming  this  great  scourge  of 
Sniilh  Africa.  The  African  aboriginal  tribes  have  long 
licen  in  a  state  of  perpetual  warfare — an  inter-tribal  and 
most  destructive  warfare.  The  stronger  have  made  suc- 
cessful wars  on  the  weaker,  and  instead  of  the  cultivation 
of  the  land,  and  the  gradual  advancement  of  the  people 
in  civilization,  their  soil  has  been  saturated  with  Iniiiiaii 
blood  ;  their  occupation  has  been  rapine,  devastation,  and 
murder;  thousands  of  women  have  been  made  widows, 
and   th<;ir  children  oi'phans ;  property  has   been   pillaged 

T 


274  AGGRESSIONS  BY  THE  BOERS. 

and  towns  destroyed.  Within  the  last  thirty  or  forty 
years,  the  great  warriors  have  been  Chaka  and  Dingaan 
among  the  Zooloos  ;  Mantatee,  queen  of  the  Mantatees ; 
Matzilikatse  of  the  Matabeles  ;  Makkaba  of  the  Wankeets, 
to  say  nothing  of  the  inferior  warriors  and  petty  tribes, 
or  the  wars  in  the  south  among  the  Kaffirs.  These  wars 
among  the  tribes  themselves,  have  been  terminated  for 
some  time  past,  by  the  Boers  coming  in,  and  occupying 
the  territory.  Yet  in  this  circumstance,  again,  there  has 
been  inflicted  immense  injustice  and  oppression  on  the 
one  hand,  with  suffering,  loss,  and  ruin,  on  the  other. 
What  the  amount  of  actual  suffering  has  been,  no  one 
can  ascertain  ;  no  one  is  fully  acquainted  with  the  num- 
bers and  condition  of  the  tribes  that  occupy  the  large 
extent  of  territory  now  possessed  by  the  Boers ;  no  one 
can  ascertain  how  many  of  these  have  utterly  perished, 
how  many  have  migrated  elsewhere,  how  many  remain 
among  the  Boers,  and  voluntarily  serve  them,  or  how 
many  have  been  reduced  to  slavery.  It  is,  perhaps,  ques- 
tionable, whether  the  reports  respecting  the  ravages  said 
to  have  been  committed  by  the  Boers,  have  not  been 
exaggerated ;  yet  it  cannot  be  doubted  that  they  have 
committed  very  serious  aggressions  on  the  aboi'igines, 
have  inflicted  harsh  and  arbitraiy  punishments,  and 
have  taken  not  only  immense  quantities  of  cattle,  but 
also  large  numbers  of  children,  to  be  used  as  slaves  in 
fact,  although  not  so  called.  It  is  conjidenthj  reported 
that  they  have  sold  them  to  one  another,  at  about  one 
pound  per  head,  and  in  default  of  cash,  an  equivalent 
has  been  given,  a  horse,  a  cow,  or  a  few  sheep.  Possibly 
there  may  be  some  exaggeration  in  the  account  published 
three  years  ago  in  the  letter  of  a  "Traveller,"  in  the 
"  Commercial  Advertiser,"  in  which  the  Boers  are  said 
to  have  attacked  a  native  tribe  and  cut  off  4000  of  the 
people,  and  burnt  to  death  in  a  cave  some  who  had  escaped 
there,  by  means  of  dry  fuel  collected  for  the  purpose,  and 
with  which  the  mouth  of  the  cave  was  filled  up.     This 


ADDRESSING  THE  HEATHEN.  275 

report,  it  is  thought,  may  have  been  exaggerated  as  to 
numbers,  since  no  large  tribe  has  lately  existed  that 
could  have  offered  so  many  victims.  But  I  have  been 
assured,  on  most  credible  testimony,  that  there  is  no 
ground  to  doubt  the  general  truth  of  the  statement ;  so 
that,  granting  it  to  be  rather  over-coloured,  enough 
remains  to  awaken  in  us  horror  at  such  enormous  cruel- 
ties. One  shudders  at  the  very  thought,  that  baptized 
men,  bearing  the  Christian  name,  could  so  transform 
themselves  into  demons  and  monsters,  as  to  perpetrate 
such  enormities.  There  is  a  God  in  heaven  to  avenge 
sucli  abominations — but  is  there  no  human  arm  that  can 
interpose  to  arrest  them  ?  Has  Great  Britain  neither  the 
power  nor  the  right  to  interjiose  and  restrain  her  own 
subjects  from  such  deeds  of  violence?  or,  by  crossing  a 
boundary  line,  do  men  lose  their  responsibility  and  the 
Government  its  authority  ? 

From  Matebe  I  proceeded  to  Mabotsa,  the  station  of 
our  Missionary  Mr.  Edwards,  formerly  of  Kuruman,  and 
spent  the  Sunday  afternoon  and  evening  in  attending  the 
public  services  there.  About  200  natives  were  present 
in  the  afternoon,  and  a  few  who  live  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  Mission  premises  met  in  the  evening.  These  are  of 
the  tribe  of  Balvhatlis,  and  belong  to  the  Bechuana  nation. 

Tliere  is  great  difficulty  in  addressing  suitably  a  con- 
gregation of  heathens,  both  in  finding  the  right  materials 
and  the  appropriate  illustrations.  There  is  so  little  in 
their  minds  to  which  we  can  address  ourselves — no  general 
knowledge  to  which  any  appeal  can  be  made,  or  from 
which  illustrations  could  be  brought — no  Biblical  know- 
ledge, to  which  an  appeal  in  the  way  of  authority  might 
be  impressively  made.  Our  ideas  of  God,  of  sin,  the  soul, 
salvation,  law,  grace,  the  resurrection,  or  eternity,  can 
find  nothing  in  their  thoughts  or  reasonings,  if  they 
reason  at  all,  with  which  to  harmonize.  Hence  so  much 
of  the  preaching  of  the  Missionary  must  be  to  them 
incomprehensible,  and  they  wonder  that  so  much  pains 


276  THE  CHIEF  MOSELELE. 

are   taken  to  make  them  understand  what  they  do   not 
value,  and  to  appreciate  what  they  do  not  understand. 

It  does  not  appear  that  any  conversions  to  Christianity 
have  yet  taken  place  among  these  people.  There  is  a 
little  band  united  in  the  fellowship  of  the  Gospel,  of 
members  from  other  churches  ;  excepting  these,  it  seems 
as  though  all  remained  in  their  heathen  state.  And  yet, 
one  cannot  see  them,  and  address  them,  and  converse 
with  them,  and  hear  their  own  shrewd  remarks,  without 
the  conviction  that  they  are,  mentally,  as  capable  of 
receiving  Christianity  as  other  men  ;  that,  if  they  had  but 
the  "  honest  and  good  heart,"  the  seed  of  the  Word  would 
produce  its  fruit  in  them  as  well  as  others.  There  are 
no  indications  of  any  want  of  mere  intellectual  capacity. 
They  have  well-formed  heads,  intelligent  countenances, 
keen  and  penetrating  eyes,  with  nothing  vacant,  absent, 
sullen,  or  uninipressible,  and  yet  they  remain  heathen  : 
reminding  one  of  the  affecting  vision  of  the  prophet,  the 
valley  "  full  of  dry  bones,"  till  the  Spirit  of  the  Lord 
breathed,  and  the  slain  lived. 

Moselele,  the  high-spirited,  but  somewhat  selfish  and 
passionate  young  chieftain,  was  absent  from  home  on 
my  arrival.  He  was  at  one  of  his  cattle  posts,  but  the 
principal  one  of  his  six  or  seven  wives  called  and  told 
me  he  had  been  sent  for,  and  would  soon  reach  home. 
He  came,  and  after  some  conversation  promised  that  he 
would  summon  his  people  to  a  public  meeting,  when  I 
might  have  the  opportunity  of  speaking  to  them  on  the 
subject  of  education,  &c.  He  asked  me  whether  the 
women  also  should  attend.  I  inquired  of  him  whether  he 
did  not  consider  that  their  women  were  u-ise  women,  and 
if  so,  of  course  they  should  attend.  Accordingly  we  had 
a  very  large  assembly  of  men,  women,  and  children.  The 
attendance  of  women  on  such  occasions  is  quite  a  new 
thing.  They  listened  attentively  and  patiently  to  all  I 
had  to  say;  Mr.  Edwards  kindly  interpreted  for  me.  And 
tliere  was  no  little  interest  in  such  a  scene — all  the  inha- 


COMMANDO  AGAINST  KHOODOOS.  277 

bitants  of  a  village  in  the  heart  of  South  Africa,  collecting 
around  two  European  teachers,  to  discuss  the  matter  of 
Christian  education  for  the  native  children  in  the  Mission- 
school  already  established — the  meeting  being  held  in 
the  open  air,  around  a  large  tree  in  the  centre  of  the 
village,  and  contiguous  to  the  chieftain's  house,  and  he 
himself  enforcing  by  urgent  recommendations,  that  the 
children  should  attend  the  school.  Here  was  nothing 
like  irreclaimable  savagism  ;  only  too  much  of  the  inoffen- 
sive apathy,  nonchalance,  and  levity  of  heathenism. 

Considerable  damage  had  been  done  lately  in  the 
gardens  of  the  people  by  the  khoodoo,  a  large  animal  of 
the  size  of  a  heifer  or  young  cow.  A  general  hunt  was 
resolved  on.  It  took  place  while  I  was  there ;  and  in 
compliance  with  Mr.  Edwards's  request  to  their  chief, 
Moselele,  the  people  all  passed  near  his  house  on  starting, 
that  I  might  have  the  opportunity  of  seeing  them.  They 
mustered  about  200  men ;  they  were  nearly  all  armed 
with  spears  and  shields  ;  a  few  had  fowling-pieces.  Their 
intention  was  to  surround  the  hill,  in  the  bush  or  jun- 
gle of  which  these  animals  lurk.  But  before  they  could 
succeed  in  doing  so,  the  khoodoo  marauders,  as  if  they 
had  got  scent  that  a  commando  was  out  against  them, 
prudently  decamped,  and  ran  off  in  single  file  between 
the  extremities  of  the  two  wings,  now  closing  in  upon 
them.  I  requested  the  chief  to  bring  me  home  the  skin 
of  one  of  them,  which  he  politely  did. 

While  at  Mabotsa  Mr.  Inglis  came  over  from  Matebe, 
that  we  might  have  as  many  opportunities  of  conversa- 
tion as  possible  during  my  stay  in  Baharutseland.  I 
was  amused  with  a  little  incident  that  happened  on  the 
occasion.  Moselele,  the  chief,  came  in  to  strike  a  bar- 
gain with  him  for  the  purchase  of  a  favourite  cow.  This 
people  have  their  fancy  cows,  heifers,  and  oxen,  just  as 
our  more  civilized  Europeans  have  their  fancy  for  horses, 
dogs,  and  birds.  He  came  to  offer  a  kaross  for  the 
said  cow,  but  which  was  not  really  worth  it.     He  is  said 


278  cow  AND  KAROSS  EXCHANGE. 

to  be  niggardly.  The  question  of  the  exchange  of  the 
kaross  for  the  cow  was  referred  to  me,  as  being  a  "  great 
man  among  the  wliite  men,"  and  I  gave  it  as  my  opinion 
that  it  was  beneath  the  dignity  of  a  great  chief  to  be 
squabbling  about  the  value  of  a  poor  cow ;  that  I  should 
recommend  the  Missionary  to  make  him  a  present  of  it ; 
and  then,  at  some  future  time,  I  thought  the  chief  might 
make  a  present  worthy  of  a  chief  to  the  Missionary,  and 
might  say  to  him,  "  There,  you  are  travelling  about  with 
your  wagon,  for  the  good  of  my  people,  accept  a  span  of 
oxen."  The  people  sitting  round  Moselele  thought  this 
was  good,  especially  that  the  Missionary  should  give  the  coiv. 
The  chief  promised,  that  whenever  the  Missionary  wanted 
a  span  of  oxen,  he  would  lend  him  his  own,  and  if  one 
happened  to  die  on  the  road,  or  if  one  were  killed  and 
eaten,  or  in  any  way  missing,  nothing  should  be  said 
about  it.  The  result  Avas,  that  the  chief  was  to  have 
the  cow  and  calf,  and  Mr.  Inglis  to  receive  the  kaross 
and  a  young  ox ;  shortly  after  which  the  tiger-skin 
kaross  was  transferred  by  the  Missionaiy  to  my  wagon 
as  a  souvenir,  and  the  chief  had  his  fancy  gi'atified,  and 
was  so  far  a  happier  man. 

It  is  about  two  days'  journey  from  Mabotsa  to  Kolobeng. 
Part  of  the  comitry  is  very  lovely.  Just  before  reaching 
Kolobeng,  the  road  passes  through  a  valley  or  defile 
between  ranges  of  hills  about  600  feet  high.  Trees 
and  gi-aceful  shrubs  are  abundant.  I  found  the  mimosa 
in  full  flower,  with  its  bright-yellow  heads,  actually  per- 
fuming the  air  with  its  delicious  fragi'ance.  I  saw 
scarcely  any  game.  A  few  klioodoos  passed  in  sight.  It 
is  a  lion  country,  but  none  ventured,  or  had  sufficient 
curiosity  to  come  near  us.  A  farmer,  in  passing  lately 
this  same  road,  saw  ten  in  company,  and  another  had 
the  gratification  of  counting  no  less  than  thirty — a  sight 
that  would  have  thrown  Mr.  Gordon  Gumming  into 
ecstasies,  and  many  others  into  fits. 

Mr.  Edwards  has  had  many  opportunities  here  of  test- 


SERPENT  WORSHIP.  279 

ing  the  fact,  that  the  people  venerate  and  worship  ser- 
pents ;  this  is  stated  also  in  D'Arbousset  and  Daumas's 
journeys  among  the  Basutos.  Mr.  Inglis  also  men- 
tioned to  me  various  circumstances  of  a  similar  kind. 
The  worship  is  not  confined  to  any  one  particular  species 
of  serpent,  but  is  extended  generally  to  all.  A  woman 
was  seen  one  day  worshipping  a  small  serpent,  and  over- 
heard praying  to  it  the  uniqiie  and  selfish  prayer,  "  Give 
rain  to  my  garden ;  let  me  have  plenty ;  and  let  there  be 
nobody  in  the  world  bul;  you  and  me."  On  meeting  a 
serpent  in  the  road,  a  woman  will  take  off  some  of  her 
beads  and  offer  them  as  a  present  or  sacrifice,  in  token 
of  veneration.  They  are  regarded  as  representing,  in 
some  way,  their  departed  ancestors ;  and  hence,  one  has 
been  heard  addressing  a  serpent,  and  saying,  "  Ah !  I 
see  in  your  eyes  my  former  chief."  These  are  additional 
facts  which  serve  to  illustrate  the  doctrine  of  the  almost 
universal  worship  of  serpents, — one  of  the  strangest  ano- 
malies in  the  religious  history  of  mankind. 

Yet,  on  some  occasions,  they  do  not  hesitate  to  kill 
these  objects  of  veneration.  Moiloi  told  us  of  an  immense 
serpent  which  he  had  met  with  when  out  on  a  hunting 
expedition  with  some  of  his  people.  This  enormous 
serpent  was  hanging  from  the  bough  of  a  large  tree,  and 
was  killed  only  after  a  desperate  struggle.  It  measured 
fifty  feet  in  length.  This  was  ascertained  by  a  mnnber 
of  men  lying  down  at  full  length  by  its  side.  It  took 
nine  men  to  reach  from  the  head  to  the  tail,  and  was  of 
prodigious  girth  round  the  body.  I  could  obtain  no 
further  description  of  it.  It  was,  perhaps,  a  boa  con- 
strictor. 

There  are  two  villages  at  Kolobeng,  one  occupied  by 
the  Bakwains  (or  Baquecns,)  and  the  other  by  the  Bakaa. 
Of  the  former  there  is  a  population  amoimting  to  2'584, 
of  the  latter  1236,  forming  together  a  total  of  ^OSO. 
Some  of  the  statistics  collected  by  Dr.  Livingston  possess 
considerable  interest.     One  could  wish  that  similar  statis- 


280  STATISTICS  OF  KOLOBENG. 

tics  had  been  kept  at  all  the  stations,  as  indicating  the 
comparative  influence  of  heathenism  and  Christianity 
upon  the  population.  At  the  same  time,  the  niigi'atory 
habits  of  the  people  would  throw  considerable  uncer- 
tainty over  the  records,  unless  kept  with  gi'eat  exactness. 

Dr.  Livingston  states,  that  at  Kolobeng  157  mono- 
gamists have  193  children;  and  121  polygamists  259 
children  ;  that  there  are  18  polygamists  having  40  wives 
but  having  no  children  ;  and  39  monogamists  Avho  also 
have  no  children  ;  that,  in  taking  a  census  of  the  Bakaa 
there  were  found — 

Men  above  fourteen  years  of  age  .         .         .         .361 

Women 423 

Boys  under  fovirteen    ......     197 

Girls •         .     255 

1236 

Of  the  361  men,    2  have  four  -wives. 
25  have  three  wives. 
94  have  two  wives. 

121  Polygamists. 

157  Monogamists. 

83  Unmarried. 

The  chief,  Sechele,  has  made  an  open  profession  of 
Christianity,  and  has  been  baptized.  He  is  regular  in 
his  attendance  at  public  worship,  and  has  family  worship 
every  evening.  His  appearance  is  prepossessing;  he  is 
about  thirty-five  years  old,  tall  and  well-proportioned  > 
his  complexion  is  dark,  his  countenance  intelligent,  and 
his  manners  easy  and  agreeable.  His  hair  is  plaited  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  Malagasy ;  his  di'ess  is  wholly 
European.     He  is  the  husband  of  one  wife. 

The  people,  with  their  chief  Sechele,  removed  from 
Chonuana,  for  the  professed  pm-pose  of  being  near  the 
teacher,  and  within  reach  of  his  instructions. 

For  themselves  they  Avere  not  under  the  necessity  of 
changing  their  location,  as  the  supply  of  water  was  suflSi- 


HISTORY  OF  SEOHELE,  281 

cient  for  their  cattle  and  their  domestic  wants,  and  as 
they  do  not  use  artificial  irrigation,  a  comparatively  small 
supply  suffices.  The  chief  himself  may  have  felt  really 
anxious  to  be  near  Dr.  Livingston,  for  the  sake  of  pro- 
fiting by  his  instructions ;  and  he  may  have  sincerely 
desired  this  advantage  also  for  his  people  ;  but  it  is  clear, 
in  all  these  cases,  that  the  natives  are  partly  influenced 
by  the  hope  that  the  Missionary  may  render  them  some 
political  service,  and  afford  them  some  protection  against 
the  intrusion  of  their  troublesome  neighbours. 

When  Sechele  was  a  lad,  an  attack  was  made  on  his 
father's  countiy  by  a  chief  from  the  north,  of  the  name 
of  Sebetoana.  The  invading  party  was  victorious,  and 
many  of  those  attacked  were  left  slain  on  the  battle-field, 
Sebetoana  directed  his  people  to  find,  if  they  could,  any 
surviving  members  of  the  lamily  of  Sechele's  father,  to 
take  care  of  them,  and  to  bring  them  to  him.  The  father 
had  fallen  in  battle,  but  the  youth  Sechele  was  found 
and  taken  to  Sebetoana ;  he  was  kindly  received  and  care- 
fully brought  up. 

After  reaching  maturity,  Sebetoana  one  day  said  to  him, 
"  I  made  war  on  your  father  and  subdued  him,  but  I  have 
no  wish  to  make  war  on  you ;  and  now  I  give  you  your 
choice  :  you  may  either  remain  with  me,  and  I  will  provide 
you  with  cattle  and  all  that  you  need,  as  my  friend,  or 
you  may  return,  if  you  prefer  it,  to  your  own  country,  and 
we  shall  be  on  friendly  terms  with  one  another."  Sechele 
decided  on  the  latter  course,  and  has  maintained  occa- 
sional and  friendly  communications  with  his  father's 
enemy  and  his  own  preserver.  This  Sebetoana  is  the 
chieftain  of  the  people  north  of  tlie  newly  discovered 
lake,  and  with  whom  he  endeavoured  in  vain  to  find  the 
means  of  making  some  communications. 

The  Kuruman  station,  occupied  by  the  Rev.  Robert 
Moffat  and  his  faithful  coadjutors,  was  long  the  advanced 
post  of  Missions  in  Sovith  Africa.  It  was  nut  until  his 
return  from  England  that  other  enterprising  Missionaries 


282  MUKRAT  AND  OSWELL. 

moved  fonvard  to  regions  still  more  northward.  Of  those. 
Dr.  Livingston  has  been  honoured  to  commence  a  station 
at  Kolobeng,  which  is  more  than  200  miles  N.E.  by  N. 
from  Kuruman.  This  he  did  with  the  view  of  seizing 
tlie  first  opportunity  of  advancing  to  the  more  populous 
regions  which  were  supposed  to  lie  yet  further  north. 

In  the  month  of  July  last,  an  opportunity  was  presented 
to  this  enterprising  Missionaiy  of  gratifying  his  long-che- 
rished purpose,  by  the  visit  of  two  benevolent  travellers, 
Messrs.  Murray  and  Oswell,  who  requested  his  co-opera- 
tion in  attempting  to  cross  the  desert,  and  exploring  the 
unknown  regions  to  the  north.  This  overtm-e  Mr.  Living- 
ston gladly  embraced,  unintimidated  by  the  hardships  or 
dangers  of  the  undertaking ;  and,  through  the  gracious 
providence  of  God,  the  effort  has  been  crowned  with  dis- 
tinguished success. 

The  point  reached  is  upwards  of  300  miles  directly 
north-west  of  Kolobeng,  and,  consequently,  little  short  of 
600  miles  from  Kuruman  ;  while  the  character  of  the 
inhabitants  appears  to  present  both  powerful  claims  and 
encouragements  to  futm-e  Missionaiy  effort.  But  the  dis- 
covery of  large  inland  rivers  running  from  the  north — 
that  hitherto  terra  incognita — seems  to  open  a  highway  for 
the  progress  of  the  Gospel  in  the  interior  of  Africa,  on 
■which  we  tmst  our  faithful  Missionaries  will  be  permitted 
shortly  to  enter. 

At  the  time  of  my  visit  to  Kolobeng,  at  the  close  of 
1849,  Dr.  Livingston  had  lately  returned  from  his  tour, 
of  which  I  found  he  had  recently  conveyed  a  gi-aphic  de- 
scription to  the  Kev.  Dr.  Tidman,  dated  from  the  banks 
of  the  river  Zouga,  September  3,  ]  849,  with  a  postscript 
dated  Kolobeng,  October  14,  which  he  had  safely  reached 
on  his  return  on  the  10th  of  that  month.  His  letter  to 
Dr.  Tidman  contains  the  earliest  and  fullest  account  of 
his  tour,  and  of  the  discovery  of  the  Lake  Ngami ;  it  is 
as  follows  : — 


LAKE  NGAMI.  283 


Letter  from  the   Rev.  David  Livingston,  addressed   to  the  Rev. 
Akthue,  Tidman,  Foreign  Secretary,  London  Missionary  Society. 

"  Banks  of  the  River  Zouga,  ^rd  September,  1849. 
"Dear  Sik, — 

"  I  left  my  station,  Kolobeng,  (situated  25^  South  lat.,  26  East 
long.),  on  the  1st  of  June  last,  in  order  to  carry  into  effect  the  in- 
tention, of  which  I  had  previously  informed  you,  viz.,  to  open  a  new 
field  in  the  North,  by  penetrating  the  great  obstacle  to  our  progress, 
called  the  Desert,  which,  stretching  away  on  our  west,  north-west, 
and  north,  has  liitherto  presented  an  insurmountable  barrier  to 
Europeans. 

"A  large  party  of  Griquas,  in  about  thirty  wagons,  made  many 
and  persevermg  efforts  at  two  different  points  last  year ;  but  though 
inured  to  the  climate,  and  stimidated  by  the  prospect  of  much  gam 
from  the  ivory  they  expected  to  procure,  want  of  water  compelled 
them  to  retreat. 

"  Two  gentlemen,  to  whom  I  had  communicated  my  intention  of 
proceeding  to  the  oft-reported  Lake  beyond  the  Desert,  came  &om 
England  for  the  express  purpose  of  being  present  at  the  discovery, 
and  to  theu-  Uberal  and  zealous  co-operation  we  are  especially  in- 
debted for  the  success  with  which  that  and  other  objects  have  been 
accomplished.  While  waiting  for  their  arrival,  seven  men  came  to 
me  from  the  Batouana,  a  tribe  living  on  the  banks  of  the  lake,  with 
an  earnest  request  from,  their  chief  for  a  visit.  But  the  path  by 
■which  they  had  come  to  Kolobeng  was  impracticable  for  wagons  ;  so, 
declining  their  guidance,  I  selected  the  more  cu'cuitous  route,  by 
which  the  Bermangueato  usually  pass,  and,  having  Bakwains  for 
guides,  their  self-interest  in  our  success  was  secured  by  my  promising 
to  carry  any  ivory  they  might  procure  for  their  chiefs  in  my  wagon ; 
and  right  faithfully  they  performed  their  task. 

"When  Sekhomi,  the  Bamanguato  chief,  became  aware  of  our 
intention  to  pass  into  the  regions  beyond  him,  with  true  native  in- 
humanity he  sent  men  before  us  to  drive  away  all  the  Bushmen  and 
Bakalihari  from  our  route,  in  order  that,  being  deprived  of  their 
assistance  in  the  search  for  water,  we  might,  like  the  Griquas  above 
mentioned,  be  compelled  to  return.  This  measure  deprived  me  of 
the  opportunity  of  holding  the  intercourse  with  these  poor  outcasts  I 
might  otherwise  have  enjoyed.  But,  through  the  good  providence  of 
God,  after  travelling  about  300  miles  from  Kolobeng,  we  struck  on  a 
magiuficent  river  on  the  4th  of  July,  and  without  further  difficulty, 
in  so  far  as  Avater  was  concerned,  by  winding  along  its  banks  nearly 


284  LETTER  FROM  DR.  LIVINGSTON. 

300  miles  more,  we  reached  the  Batavana,  on  the  lake  Ngami,  by  the 
beginning  of  August. 

'*  Previous  to  leaving  this  beautiful  river  on  my  return  home,  and 
commencing  our  route  across  the  Desert,  I  feel  anxious  to  furnish 
you  with  the  impressions  produced  on  my  mind  by  it  and  its  inhabi- 
tants, the  Bakoba  or  Bayeiye.  They  are  a  totally  distinct  race  from 
the  Bechuanas.  They  call  themselves  Bayeiye  (or  men),  while  the 
teiia  Bakoba  (the  name  has  somewhat  of  the  meaning  of  "slaves,") 
is  applied  to  them  by  the  Bechuanas.  Their  complexion  is  darker 
than  that  of  the  Bechuanas ;  and,  of  300  words  I  collected  of  their 
language,  only  21  bear  any  resemblance  to  Sitchuana.  They  paddle 
along  the  rivers  and  lake  in  canoes  hollowed  out  of  the  trunks  of 
single  trees ;  take  fish  in  nets  made  of  a  weed  which  abounds  on  the 
banks  ;  and  kill  hippopotami  with  harpoons  attached  to  ropes.  We 
greatly  admired  the  frank,  manly  bearing  of  these  inland  sailors. 
Many  of  them  spoke  Sitchuana  fluently,  and,  while  the  wagon  went 
along  the  bank,  I  greatly  enjoyed  following  the  windings  of  the 
river  in  one  of  their  primitive  craft,  and  visitmg  their  little  A-illages 
among  the  reed.  The  banks  are  beautiful  beyond  any  we  had  ever 
seen,  except  perhaps  some  parts  of  the  Clyde.  They  are  covered,  in 
general,  with  gigantic  trees,  some  of  them  bearing  fruit,  quite  new 
to  us.  Two  of  the  Baobob  variety  measiired  70  to  76  feet  in  circum- 
ference. The  higher  we  ascended  the  river,  the  broader  it  became, 
until  we  often  saw  more  than  100  yards  of  clear  deep  water  between 
the  broad  belt  of  reed  whicli  grows  in  the  shallower  parts.  The 
water  was  clear  as  crystal,  and  as  we  approached  the  point  of  junc- 
tion A^ith  other  large  rivers,  reported  to  exist  in  the  north,  it  was  quite 
soft  and  cold.  The  fact  that  the  Zouga  is  connected  -with  large  rivers 
coming  fi-om  the  north,  awakens  emotions  in  my  nrnid,  which  make 
the  discoveiy  of  the  lake  dwindle  out  of  sight.  It  opens  the  pros- 
pect of  a  highway,  capable  of  being  quickly  traversed  by  boats,  to  a 
large  section  of  well-peopled  territoiy.  The  hopes  which  that  pros- 
pect inspu-es  for  the  benighted  mhabitants,  might,  if  uttered,  call 
forth  the  charge  of  enthusiasm — a  charge,  by  the  way,  I  wish  I 
deserved,  for  nothing  good  or  great,  either  in  law,  religion,  or  phy- 
sical science,  has  ever  been  accomplished  without  it :  however,  I  do 
not  mean  the  romantic  flighty  variety,  but  that  which  impels  vrith 
tmtiring  energy  to  the  accomplishment  of  its  object.  1  do  not  ^-ish 
to  convey  hopes  of  speedily  effecting  any  great  work  through  my  own 
instrumentality ;  but  I  hope  to  be  permitted  to  work,  so  long  as  I 
live,  beyond  other  men's  line  of  things,  and  plant  the  seed  of  the 
Gospel  where  others  have  not  planted  ;  though  every  excursion  for 
that  purpose  will  involve  separation  from  my  family  for  periods  of 


LETTER  FROM  DR.  LIVINGSTON.  285 

four  or  five  months.  Kolobeng  will  be  supplied  by  native  teachers 
during  these  times  of  absence  ;  and,  when  we  have  given  the  Bak- 
wains  a  fair  trial,  it  will  probably  be  advisable  for  all  to  move 
onward. 

"  One  remarkable  feature  in  this  river  is,  its  periodical  rise  and 
fall.  It  has  risen  nearly  3  feet  in  height  smce  our  arrival,  and  this 
is  the  dry  season.  That  the  rise  is  not  caused  by  rains,  is  evident 
from  the  water  being  so  pure.  Its  purity  and  softness  increased  as 
we  ascended  towards  its  junction  with  the  Tamanakle,  from  wliich, 
although  connected  with  the  lake,  it  derives  the  present  increased 
supply.  The  sharpness  of  the  air  caused  an  amazing  keemiess  of 
appetite,  at  an  elevation  of  little  more  than  2000  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  (water  boiled  at  207^°  thermometer),  and  the  reports 
of  the  Bayeiye,  that  the  waters  came  from  a  mountainous  region, 
suggested  the  conclusion  that  the  increase  of  the  water  at  the  begin- 
ning and  middle  of  the  dry  season  must  be  derived  fi'om  melting 
snow. 

"  All  the  rivers  reported,  to  the  north  of  this,  have  Bayeiye  upon 
them,  and  there  are  other  tribes  on  their  banks.  To  one  of  these, 
after  A'isiting  the  Batouana,  and  taking  a  peep  at  the  broad  part  of 
the  lake,  Ave  directed  our  course.  But  the  Batouana  chief  managed  to 
obstruct  us,  by  keeping  all  Bayeiye  near  the  ford  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  Zouga.  African  chiefs  invariably  dislike  to  see  strangers 
passing  them  to  tribes  beyond.  Sebetoana,  the  chief  who  in  former 
years  saved  the  life  of  Sechele,  our  chief,  lives  about  ten  days  north- 
east of  the  Batouana.  The  latter  sent  a  present  as  a  token  of  gratitude. 
This  would  have  been  a  good  introduction;  the  knowledge  of  the 
language,  however,  is  the  best  we  can  have.  I  endeavoiu'ed  to  con- 
struct a  raft,  at  a  part  which  was  only  fifty  or  sixty  yards  wide,  but 
the  wood,  though  sun-dried,  was  so  heavy  it  sunk  immediately ; 
another  kind  would  not  bear  my  weight,  although  a  considerable 
portion  of  my  person  was  under  water.  I  could  easily  have  swam 
across,  and  fain  would  have  done  it ;  but,  landing  without  clothes, 
and  then  demanding  of  the  Bakoba  the  loan  of  a  boat,  would  scarcely 
be  the  thing  for  a  messenger  of  peace,  even  though  no  alligator  met 
me  in  the  passage.  These  and  other  thoughts  were  revolving  in  my 
mind  as  I  stood  in  the  water, — for  most  sorely  do  I  dislike  to  be 
beaten, — when  my  kind  and  generous  friend  Mr.  Oswell,  with  whom 
alone  the  visit  to  Sebetoana  was  to  be  made,  offered  to  bring  up  a  boat 
at  his  own  expense  from  the  Cape,  which,  after  visiting  the  chief,  and 
coming  round  the  north  end  of  the  lake,  will  become  Missionary 
property.  To  him  and  our  other  companion,  Mr.  Murray,  I  feel 
greatly  indebted ;  for  the  chief  exj)enseij    kejourneij  has  been  borne  by 


286  ■LETTER  FROM  DR.  LIVINGSTON. 

them.     They  could  not  have  readied  tins  point  witliout  my  assist 
ance ;   but,  for  the  aid  they  have  rendered  hi  opening  up  this  field,  I 
feel  greatly  indebted  ;   and,  should  any  public  notice  be  taken  of  this 
journey,  I  shall  feel  obliged  to  the  Directors  if  they  express  my 
thankfulness. 

"The  Bayeiye  or  Bakoba listened  to  the  statements  made  from  the 
Divine  Word  with  great  attention,  and,  if  I  am  not  mistaken,  seemed 
to  understand  the  message  of  mercy  delivered,  better  than  any 
people  to  -whom  I  have  preached  for  the  first  time.  They  have  in-| 
variably  a  great  many  charms  in  the  villages ;  stated  the  name  of 
God  in  their  language  (without  the  least  hesitation)  to  be  "  Oreeja ;" 
mentioned  the  name  of  the  first  man  and  woman,  and  some  tradition- 
ary statements  respecting  the  Flood.  I  shall  not,  however,  take 
these  for  certain,  tdl  I  have  more  knowledge  of  their  language. 
They  are  found  dwelling  among  the  reed  all  round  the  Lake,  and  on 
the  banks  of  all  the  rivers  to  the  North. 

"With  the  periodical  flow  of  the  rivers,  great  shoals  of  fish  descend. 
The  people  could  give  no  reason  for  the  rise  of  the  water,  further 
than  that  a  chief,  who  lives  in  a  part  of  the  coiuitry  to  the  north, 
called  ^lazzekiva,  kills  a  man  annually,  and  tlirows  his  body  into  the 
stream,  after  which  the  water  begins  to  flow.  When  will  they 
know  Him  who  was  slain,  that  whosoever  wUl,  might  drink  of  the 
water  of  life  freely  ? 

"The  sketch,  which  I  inclose  (see  p.  287),  is  intended  to  convey  an 
idea  of  the  River  Zouga  and  the  Lake  Ngami.  The  name  of  the  latter 
is  pronounced  as  if  written  with  the  Spanish  N,  the  g  bemg  inserted 
to  show  that  the  ringing  sound  is  required.  The  meaning  is  "  Great 
Water."  The  latitude,  taken  by  a  sextant  on  which  I  can  fully  de- 
pend, was  20°  20'  S.  at  the  north-east  extremity,  where  it  is  jomed 
by  the  Zouga  ;  longitude,  about  24°  E.  We  do  not,  however,  knoxo  it 
with  certainty.  We  left  our  wagon  near  the  Batouana  town,  and  rode 
on  horseback  about  six  miles  beyond,  to  the  broad  part.  It  gradually 
widens  out  into  a  frith  about  15  miles  across,  as  you  go  South  from 
the  town,  and  in  the  South-South- West  presents  a  large  horizon  of 
water.  It  is  reported  to  be  about  70  miles  in  length,  bends  roiuid  to 
the  North- West,  and  there  receives  another  river  similar  to  the  Zouga. 
The  Zouga  rmis  to  the  North-East.  The  thorns  were  so  thickly 
planted  near  the  upper  part  of  this  river,  that  we  left  all  our  wagons 
standing  about  180  miles  from  the  lake,  except  that  of  Mr.  Oswell,  in 
which  we  travelled  the  remaining  distance.  But  for  this  precaution, 
our  oxen  would  have  been  unable  to  return.  I  am  now  standing  at 
a  tribe  of  Bakiirutse,  and  shall  iai  a  day  or  two  re-enter  the  desert. 

"The  breadth  marked  is  intended  to  show  the  difi'erence  between 


LAKE  NGAMI. 


287 


SECOND  VISIT  TO  THE  LAKE.  989 

the  size  of  the  Zouga,  after  its  junction  Avith  the  Tamunakle,  and 
before  it.  The  farther  it  runs  East,  the  naiTower  it  becomes.  The 
coxirse  is  shown  by  the  arrow-heads.  The  rivers  not  seen,  bxit  reported 
by  natives,  are  put  down  in  dotted  lines.  The  dotted  lines  running 
north  of  the  river  and  lake,  show  the  probable  course  of  the  Tamu- 
nakle, and  anotheT  river,  which  fall  into  the  lake  at  its  north-west 
extremity.  The  arrow-heads  show  also  the  direction  of  its  flow.  At  the 
part  marked  by  the  name  of  the  chief,  Mosing,  it  is  not  more  than  50 
or  60  yards  in  breadth,  while  at  20°  7'  it  is  more  than  100,  and  very 
deep. 

"The  principal  disease  reported  to  prevail  at  certain  seasons  ap- 
pears, from  the  account  of  the  symptoms  the  natives  give,  to  be  pneu- 
monia, and  not  fever.  When  the  wind  rises  to  an  ordinary  breeze, 
such  immense  clouds  of  dust  arise  from  the  numerous  di-ied-out  lakes, 
called  salt-pans,  that  the  whole  atmosphere  becomes  quite  yellow, 
and  one  cannot  distinguish  objects  more  than  two  miles  off.  It  causes 
irritation  in  the  eyes,  and,  as  wind  prevails  almost  constantly  at  cer- 
tain seasons,  this  impalpable  powder  may  act  as  it  does  among  the 
grinders  in  Sheffield.  We  observed  cough  among  them,  a  complamt 
almost  unknown  at  Kolobeng.  Musquitoes  swarm  in  simimcr,  and 
the  banyan  and  palmyra  give  in  some  parts  an  Indian  cast  to  the 
scenery.  AVho  will  go  in  to  possess  this  goodly  land  in  the  name  of 
Him  whose  right  it  is  to  reign  ? 

(Signed)         "DAVID  LIVINGSTON." 

In  April,  1850,  Dr.  Livingston  made  a  second  attempt 
to  visit  tlie  region  of  the  lake,  with  a  view  to  the  extension 
of  Missionary  enterprise.  On  this  occasion  he  was  accom- 
panied by  Mrs.  L.  and  their  children,  and  also  by  Sechele, 
the  chief,  and  Mebaloe,  the  native  teacher  of  the  Kolobeng 
station. 

After  visiting  the  Bakarutse  tribe,  who  live  at  the  lower 
end  of  the  Zouga,  the  travellers  crossed  that  river  and 
ascended  its  northern  bank,  intending  to  follow  the  course 
of  the  Tamunakle  until  they  reached  the  residence  of  the 
friendly  chief,  Sebeboana. 

When  they  were  near  the  junction  of  the  two  rivers,  they 
were  informed  by  Palaue,  a  Bakhoba  chief,  that  the  fly 
called  "  tsetse "  abounded  on  the  Tamunakle.  As  the 
bite  of  this  formidable  insect  was  known  to  be  fatal   ta 


290  INSUPERABLE  DIFFICULTIES. 

oxen,  horses,  and  dogs,  though  not  to  man,  and  the  party 
were  in  possession  of  no  more  oxen  than  were  barely  sul- 
ficient  to  draw  the  wagons,  Mr.  Livingston  resolved  to 
prosecute  his  enterprise  alone;  but  Mrs.  L.  preferring  to 
pass  the  interval  among  the  Bataoana,  while  awaiting  her 
husband's  return,  the  party  recrossed  the  Zouga,  and  pro-' 
ceeded  onwards  to  the  lake.  Sechulathebe,  the  chief, 
engaged  to  furnish  Mr.  Livingston  with  guides  for  his  expe- 
dition, and  also  to  make  provision  for  his  family  during  his 
absence.  These  preliminary  arrangements  being  made, 
and  everything  appearing  favourable,  Mr.  L.  was  on  the  eve 
of  starting  on  his  journey,  when  his  driver  and  leader  were 
laid  up  by  fever,  and  subsequently  two  of  his  children,  and 
others  of  the  party,  were  attacked.  As  the  malaria  seemed 
to  exist  in  a  more  concentrated  form  near  the  lake  than  in 
any  other  part,  and  had  already  proved  fatal  in  two  instances, 
the  travellers  considered  it  prudent  to  retreat,  after  passing 
two  Sundays  with  the  Bataoana ;  and  as  the  time  at  Mr. 
Livingston's  command  was  nearly  expended,  he  was  reluc- 
tantly compelled,  through  the  serious  obstacles  intei'posed 
by  the  prevalence  of  the  fever  and  the  fly,  to  return  to  his 
station  at  Kolobeng,  deferring  the  accomplishment  of  his 
ulterior  objects  for  a  more  favourable  opportunity. 

The  sickness  with  which  the  party  were  attacked,  is  stated 
to  be  marsh  fever,  generated  from  the  lake  and  river,  at  that 
period  of  the  year  when  evaporation  has  proceeded  so  far 
as  to  expose  the  banks  of  vegetable  matter  to  the  action  of 
the  sun.  In  the  natives,  the  effects  of  the  poison  imbibed 
into  the  system  appear  most  frequently  in  the  form  of  bi- 
lious fever,  and  they  generally  recover,  after  being  copiously 
relieved  of  bile  ;  but  as  the  result  of  his  observation  and 
inquir}^  Mr.  Livingston  has  been  led  to  doubt  whether  this 
disease  may  not  form  a  serious  barrier  to  the  introduction 
of  European  civilization,  and  the  formation  of  Missionary 
establishments  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lake  districts.  As, 
however,  the  Teoge,  a  river  which  falls  into  the  lake  at  its 
north-west  extremity,  is  reported  to  flow  southward  with 


SUNDAY  AT  KOLOBENG.  291 

great  rapidity,  the  region  beyond  must  have  a  considerable 
elevation  ;  and  hopes  are  consequently  entertained  that 
localities  may  be  found  in  that  direction  unexceptionable 
on  the  score  of  health.  With  a  view  to  the  solution  of  this 
interesting  and  important  problem,  Mr.  Livingston  proposes 
to  undertake  another  journey  at  the  first  opportunity;  and 
Mrs.  L.  so  fully  partakes  of  the  enterprising  spirit  of  her 
husband,  and  so  cordially  sympathizes  in  his  object,  that 
she  has  consented  to  his  leaving  her  during  the  period, 
more  or  less  protracted,  tliat  an  undertaking,  embracing 
such  objects,  must  necessarily  occupy. 

On  the  Sunday  which  I  spent  at  Kolobeng,  we  held  ser- 
vice at  the  chapel. 

Very  many  of  the  natives  attended.  Mr.  Moffat  ad- 
dressed those  who  were  assembled  in  large  numbers  out- 
side, and  who  had  been  unable  to  gain  admittance  within. 

Dr.  Livingston  kindly  acted  as  my  inteipreter  to  the 
congregation  within  the  building.  All  were  attentive  ;  and 
it  was  encouraging  to  find  them  disposed  to  assemble  and 
listen.  But  the  people  are,  with  the  exception  of  their 
chief,  nearly  all  heathen,  dressed  in  their  native  karosses, 
their  hair  greased,  necks  belaboured  with  chains  and  orna- 
ments, and  many  of  them  begrimed  with  red  ochre.  A 
few  are  trying  to  learn  to  read,  and  some  children  attend 
school.  It  was  gratifying  on  the  Sunday  morning  to  see 
the  chief,  Sechele,  kindly  and  earnestly  endeavouring  to 
teach  his  people  the  elements  of  reading. 

The  whole  Mission-work  of  the  station,  however,  is  quite 
in  an  incipient  state  ;  and  the  teacher  requires  for  his 
labour  of  love  a  large  supply  of  the  patience  of  hope,  and 
the  zeal  that  is  not  exhausted  by  difficulty.  How  many 
important  considerations  risebeforc  him  under  such  circum- 
stances !  How  far  is  a  Missionary  justified  in  rciuainiug 
with  a  heathen  people,  when,  though  they  are  glad  of  his 
presence,  for  the  shield  it  serves  to  throw  around  them  in 
tlicir  civil  and  political  condition,  they  not  only  do  not  em- 
bi-acc  the  gospel  he   preaches,  but  resist  and  oj)pose,  and 


292  AN  ANXIOUS  INQUIRY. 

scarcely  ever  come  to  hear  him  ?  How  long  is  he  warranted 
in  remaining  with  them  under  such  circumstances,  and 
especially  if  other  tribes  are  within  his  reach,  and  who 
might  be  willing  to  embrace  his  message  ?  And  all  these 
considerations  receive  additional  weight  when  it  is  recol- 
lected that  our  Society  is  so  limited  in  its  funds,  that  it 
cannot  afford  to  spend  much  in  the  way  of  experimenting 
on  people,  while  large  opportunities  exist  of  proclaiming 
the  gospel  to  great  multitudes  in  India  and  China,  and 
where  multitudes  are  already  willing  to  hear,  at  any  rate, 
the  message  which  is  announced.  The  population  here  is 
not  large  ;  and  yet  three  thousand  souls  would  form  a  suf- 
ficiently large  sphere  of  operation  for  a  Missionary,  pro- 
vided he  has  access  to  them,  and  they  actually  come  under 
his  instniction  and  influence. 

I  had  now  reached  the  extreme  point  of  my  journey 
northward;  and  having  completed  my  visit  to  Kolobeng, 
I  commenced  my  journey  on  my  return  to  the  South.  The 
chief  and  Dr.  Livingston  accompanied  Mr.  and  Miss  Moffat 
and  myself  to  our  first  resting-place  ;  there  we  separated. 
They  returned  home  ;  and  the  rest  of  our  party  proceeded 
towards  Quaque,  in  the  country  of  the  Wankeets.  The 
Society  has  here  a  valuable  and  devoted  teacher,  called 
Sibobe,  sustained  by  contributions  from  friends  at  Bristol. 

The  young  chieftain  here,  Sintoe,  appeared  very  plea- 
sant, intelligent,  and  friendly.         ^^ 

The  next  Sunday  we  i'emained.;ln  the  neighbourhood  of 
a  village  of  Barolongs,  on  the-- borders  of  the  Kalliharri 
desert.     The  natives  attended  in  considerable  numbers. 

In  the  eveviing  we  held  service  beneath  our  tent  with  the 
few  natives  who  understood  English  or  Dutch  who  accom- 
panied us  ;  and  it  being  the  first  Sabbath  in  the  year,  we 
celebrated  the  ordinance  of  the  Lord's  Supper. 

The  lightning  this  evening  was  exceedingly  grand  and 
sublime  ;  I  never  saw  it  more  so.  The  sheet  lightning 
seemed  to  cover  at  once  the  face  of  the  heavens,  and  the 
pointed  and  forked  lightning  was  indescribably  vivid,  fre- 


MR.  Moffat's  wagon  upset.  293 

quent,  and  magnificent,  at  times  seeming  to  form  the  shape 
of  an  inverted  tree,  having  a  vast  central  column  and  nume- 
rous branches,  stretching  out  on  both  sides. 

The  next  day  the  air  was  delightfully  cool  and  fresh, 
after  the  rains  which  had  fallen  during  the  night.  We  con- 
tinued travelling  over  silent  and  extensive  plains.  We 
reached  a  small  village  of  Wankeets,  from  which  the  chief- 
tain happened  to  be  absent.  We  sat  down  a  short  time 
with  the  people,  under  the  shade  of  a  sort  of  hut,  con- 
structed of  poles  and  grass.  A  skin  of  an  enormous  black 
lion  was  lying  there,  measuring  seven  feet  from  the  head  to 
the  insertion  of  the  tail.  The  huge  monster,  after  having 
destroyed  several  head  of  cattle  belonging  to  the  people, 
was  shot  by  the  villagers,  who  had  gone  out  in  quest  of  him, 
and  happily  found  him  in  a  sound,  tranquil  sleep,  little 
suspecting  danger  so  near  at  hand. 

On  reaching  the  "Kolong,"  near  Mamusa,  the  first  and 
only  accident  occurred  which  we  had  met  with  on  the  jour- 
ney— Mr.  Moffat's  wagon  upset.  Happily  no  serious  mis- 
chief was  done.  Miss  M.  was  inside,  and  a  young  female 
servant.  Neither  of  them  was  injured.  My  wagon  had 
just  passed  the  same  spot  safely.  Had  there  been  due  care 
on  the  part  of  the  driver,  Mr.  M.'s  wagon  might  have  passed 
safely  too,  as  the  place  was  neither  steep  nor  difficult.  It 
delayed  us  about  half  an  hour  to  get  all  right  again.  By 
means  of  a  few  hands  pulling  the  wagon  up  on  one  side, 
and  a  strong,  united  lift  on  the  other,  the  vehicle  was  got 
up  on  its  four  Avheels  again,  reloaded,  and  shortly  after- 
wards reached  the  residence  of  Mr.  Ross. 

The  locality  has  nothing  of  interest.  It  is  a  stony  place 
— all  sandstone;  no  hills  of  any  height;  scarcely  any  vege- 
tation. There  are  four  villages,  and  they  contain  alto- 
gether about  4000  people,  chiefly  Batlapis  and  Baliarutse. 
There  are  also  some  Bamairas  and  some  Bawangketse. 
Motlaribe  is  chief  of  the  Baharutse  here. 

The  station  of  Mamusa  lies  about  230  miles  south-west 
from  Kolobeng.      The   station  was   commenced  in   1844. 


294  LEKATLONa. 

Mahura,  chieftain  of  the  Batlapis,  resides  here,  as  does  also  a 
chieftain  of  the  Baharutse.  The  population,  which  consists 
of  four  trihes,  amounts  to  4000 ;  the  average  attendance  is 
about  150,  upwards  of  100  of  whom  are  communicants.  The 
Rev.  W.  Ross  is  the  Society's  laborious  Missionary  here. 

From  Mamusa  we  proceeded  to  Borigelong,  an  out-sta- 
tion, containing  a  population  of  about  200,  chiefly  Corannas. 
We  might  have  reached  the  village  rather  earlier  this  morn- 
ing, hut  for  the  misfortune  of  losing  one  of  our  cattle  last 
night.  The  men,  though  cautioned,  had  neglected  to  tie 
them  safely  up  to  the  wagon  gear,  on  our  going  to  rest. 
Hence  they  wandered,  quietly  grazing,  to  some  little  distance, 
where  one  of  them  was  seized  by  a  wolf,  mangled,  and  de- 
stroyed. The  rest,  of  course,  ran  oif  to  a  considerable  dis- 
tance. We  borrowed  a  few  cattle  of  some  native  Bechuanas, 
who  were  travelling  our  way,  and  known  to  Mr.  Moffat,  and 
so  proceeded  to  Lekatlong,  leaving  our  driver  to  bringfonvard 
the  other  cattle  as  soon  as  found. 

Lekatlong  is  a  large  and  important  field  of  Missionary 
operation.  Here  is  a  population  of  about  1200.  The 
congregation  averages  600,  and  the  communicants  amount 
to  half  that  number.  Mr.  Helmore  has  much  to  encourage 
him  in  his  work.  There  is  a  miserable  chapel,  certainly, 
but  an  excellent  congregation ;  and  I  did  not  fail  to  urge 
upon  them  the  necessity  and  duty  of  providing  a  far  better 
and  more  appropriate  place  of  worship.  The  Sunday- 
schools  are  well  attended,  and  so  is  the  Infant-school,  su- 
perintended by  Miss  Helmore;  sister  of  Mr.  H.  Many 
children  are  absent  at  present  at  what  are  termed  "  out- 
posts," that  is,  places  where  rather  more  grass  and  water 
can  be  obtained  for  the  cattle  than  at  the  principal  towais. 
The  children  are  sent  there  to  obtain  supplies  of  milk,  on 
which,  in  fact,  they  subsist.  Nothing  can  be  obtained  at 
the  towns  for  the  support  of  large  families.  Subsistence  is 
altogether  scarce  and  difficult. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 
THE  ORANGE  RIVER  SOVEREIGNTY. 

BXPLA.NATION    OF  THE    NAME — EXTENT HISTORY  OF  ITS  ACQUISITION 

PRIVY    COUNCIL    REPORT COLONIES,  HOW    ACQUIRED  ? CONQUEST, 

CESSION,    OCCUPANCY ATTORNEY  -  GENERAL'S    OPINION OPINION 

RECONSIDERED — VARIETY     OF     OPINIONS FINAL    ARRANGEMENT 

POWER  OF  LEGAL  FICTIONS — -DANCING  A  POLKA TRANSFORMATIONS 

ANNEXATION COLOURED    RACES BLOEM    FONTEIN — MURDER  BY 

SOME    BUSHMEN  —  COMMANDO — MURDERERS    ARRESTED CAPITALLY 

PUNISHED ELOPEMENT PUNISHED    WITH    DEATH LYNCH    LAW 

EXECUTION    OF     TWO    MEN     BY    COURT-MARTIAL THABA    UNCHU 

MOROKO PLATBERG NOBLE    KLOOF REV.    MR.    GIDDY  THABA 

BOSSIO. 

On  leaving  Mr.  Helmore's  station  at  Lekatlong,  and 
travelling  towards  the  colony,  my  next  object  was  to  visit 
the  Missions  of  the  "Paris  Missionary  Society,"  among 
the  Basutos,  The  Basuto  country  has  been  lately  in- 
cluded by  Sir  Harry  Smith  within  the  district  bearing  the 
above  designation.  The  only  stations  belonging  to  the 
London  Missionary  Society,  in  this  immense  and  newly 
constituted  territory,  are  those  among  the  Griquas,  under 
the  chieftain  Adam  Kok,  and  which  I  have  already  de- 
scribed. But  as  the  whole  question  of  annexing  this  large 
piece  of  territory,  of  some  forty  to  fifty  thousand  square 
miles,  to  the  colony,  is  replete  with  the  deepest  interest, 
and  certainly  involves  the  gi'avest  questions,  I  am  un- 
willing to  omit  a  distinct  reference  to  it ;  and  the  I'ather, 
as  its  present  political  position  greatly  affects  all  the 
Missions  within  its  boundaries.     The  territory  designated 


296  HOW  TO  OBTAIN  A  COLONY. 

"  Orange  River  Sovereignty"  lies  beyond  the  old  colonial 
boundary,  on  the  north-east,  and  embraces  the  tract  of 
country  between  the  "Vaal"  and  the  "Orange"  Rivers. 
Its  most  southern  point  is  the  thirty-first  degree  of  south 
latitude,  and  il  stretches  up  to  about  twenty-six  and  a  half 
in  its  north-eastern  extremity.  It  commences  on  the  west, 
at  the  junction  of  those  two  rivers,  and  is  bounded  on  the 
north-east  by  the  Drakenberg  range  of  mountains. 

This  Orange  River  Sovereignty  includes  on  its  eastern 
side  several  districts  occupied  by  natives,  and  ruled  by 
native  chiefs,  over  whom  it  claims  to  exercise  a  paramount 
authority,  and  among  whom  Moshesh,  chief  of  the  Basutos, 
is  the  principal.  It  embraces  also,  on  the  west  side,  a  large 
tract  of  country,  partly  taken  from  the  natives,  under 
various  arrangements,  and  partly  found  as  unoccupied  ter- 
ritory— territory  bereft  of  its  aboriginal  inhabitants,  either 
by  internal  wars  or  the  intrusion  of  the  Dutch  farmers. 

This  second  portion  of  the  Sovereignty  is  divided  into 
four  districts,  over  which  four  magistrates  or  civil  com- 
missioners are  respectively  appointed,  besides  a  fifth  officer 
designated  "  British  Resident,"  as  paramount,  and  whose 
office  is  at  Bloem  Fontein. 

The  "  Sovereignty  "  was  constituted  and  proclaimed  by 
Sir  H.  Smith,  3rd  February,  1848. 

The  history  of  our  acquisition  of  this  new  and  enor- 
mous piece  of  territory  may  be  given  in  the  w^ords  of  a 
Report  from  the  Lords  of  Council,  on  Trade  and  Foreign 
Plantations,  and  which  was  read  at  Buckingham  Palace, 
13th  July,  18.50. 

"  The  Queen's  Most  Excellent  Majesty  in  Council. 
"  It  is  necessary  briefly  to  advert  to  the  steps  that  led  to  the  assump- 
tion of  the  Sovereignty  of  the  Crown  over  this  district.  In  1836  the 
emigrant  Boers  settled  themselves  doAvn  in  many  parts  of  what  is 
now  called  the  Orange  Sovereignty :  they  assumed  absolute  inde- 
pendence ;  established  a  species  of  government  for  themselves  ;  dis- 
puted native  titles  to  land  ;  disclaimed  being  amenable  to  any  native 
jxurisdiction,  even  when  within  the  acknowledged  territory  of  native 


THE  SOVEREIGNTY  ASSUMED.  297 

cliiefs ;  and  in  the  result  it  became  apparent,  that  unless  the  British 
Government  interposed  its  authority,  nothing  but  discord,  violence, 
and  crime,  and  a  total  extinction  of  the  rights  of  the  natives,  must 
follow. 

"  To  a  certain  extent  the  evils  arising  from  such  a  state  of  things 
■were  provided  against  by  the  Act  of  6  &  7  Wm.  4,  c.  57,  which  pro- 
vides for  the  punishment  of  offences  by  Her  Majesty's  subjects  within 
certain  territories  adjacent  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  The  violence 
and  aggression  of  the  Boers  upon  the  natives  were  by  these  means 
checked,  and,  imperfect  as  was  the  remedy,  the  Act  was  still  pro- 
ductive of  much  good.  The  provisions  of  this  statute  were,  however, 
found  inadequate  to  prevent  the  frequent  outbreaks  to  which  the 
natural  distrust  and  jealousy  between  the  Boers  and  the  natives  had 
led,  and  in  1845,  Sir  P.  Maitland  adopted  measures  which  he  con- 
ceived might  be  effectual  for  the  purpose.  With  this  view  he  entered 
into  arrangements  with  the  native  chiefs,  for  distinguishing  and 
marking  off  the  lands  to  be  held  by  the  natives  from  those  to  be  held 
by  the  Boers,  giving  the  Boers  leases  of  these  lands  from  the  native 
chiefs,  and  regulating  the  payment  of  quit-rents,  out  of  which  the 
expenses  of  maintaining  certain  magistrates  and  a  police  were  in  the 
ftrst  instance  to  be  paid.  These  measures,  regvdating  the  occupation 
of  the  land,  and  the  application  of  the  land  revenue,  the  establishment, 
at  the  same  time,  of  a  British  Resident,  aided  by  troops  and  a 
native  contingent,  m  case  of  need,  and  compelling  all  parties,  both 
Boers  and  natives,  to  keep  the  peace,  were  at  that  time  virtually  an 
extension  of  the  authority  of  the  Crown  over  these  domuiions. 

"Not  many  months  after  Sir  II.  Smith  had  taken  the  charge  of  the 
Government  of  the  colony  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  his  attention 
was  called  to  the  state  of  disorganization  which  continued  in  this 
territory,  notwithstanding  all  that  had  been  done  ;  and  he  came  to 
the  conclusion  that  peace  could  not  be  maintained  without  the  ex- 
istence of  some  more  formal  and  regular  Government ;  and  on  the  3rd 
of  February  1848,  he  issued  the  proclamation  which  is  contained  in 
the  present  papers,  proclaiming  the  Sovereignty  of  your  Majesty  over 
the  territories  north  of  the  Great  Orange  Iliver,  including  the  terri- 
tories of  the  native  chiefs,  Moshesh,  Moroko,  Moletsani,  Sikonyella, 
Adam  Kok,  Gert  Taybosch,  and  other  minor  chiefs,  so  far  north  as 
the  Vaal  River,  and  east  to  the  Drakcnburg  or  Quathlamba  Mountains. 

"This,  and  a  subsequent  proclamation  of  the  8th  of  March  1848, 
contained  regulations  for  the  government  of  the  assumed  sovereignty, 
providing  for  the  emigrant  Boers  the  law  now  prevailing  in  the  Cape 
colony,  and  declaring,  that,  as  to  the  natives,  Her  Majesty's  authority 
was  paramount,  but  that  the  hereditary  rights  of  the  chiefs  shoidd  be 
maintained 


Q08  ACQUISITION  OF  COLONIES. 

"  The  regulations  now  in  force  for  the  government  of  this  territory, 
as  sanctioned  by  Sir  Harry  Smith,  are  contained  in  the  proclamation 
issued  on  the  14th  March,  1849. 

"  Your  Majesty's  Secretary  of  State  for  the  Colonies  acknowledged 
the  receipt  of  the  proclamations  of  February  and  March  1848,  estab- 
lishing the  Sovereignty  of  the  C^o^\^^  over  these  dominions,  on  the 
21st  June  1848.  Sir  H.  Smith  was  then  informed  that  your  Majesty's 
Government  would  be  prepared  to  sanction  the  extension  of  British 
sovereignty  in  the  manner  detailed,  over  the  coimtry  between  the 
Orange  and  Vaal  Rivers,  and  the  adoption  of  the  system  of  land- 
granting  and  of  executive  government  described  in  the  proclamation 
of  the  8th  of  March,  when  your  Majesty's  servants  should  be  enabled 
to  determine  what  steps  would  be  necessary  to  give  legal  force  and 
validity  to  the  measm-es  in  question." 

To  detemiine  what  these  steps  should  be,  appears  to 
have  created  considerable  embarrassment.  The  main 
difficulty  was  as  to  the  light  in  which  this  new  acquisition 
should  be  legally  viewed.  Mr.  Porter,  the  Colonial  Attorney- 
General,  had  said,  25th  March,  1849  : — 

"  British  colonies  seem,  in  law,  to  be  di\isible  into  three  classes, 
for  colonies  by  descent  may  be  left  out  of  the  list : — 
"  1st.    Colonies  acquired  by  conquest. 
"  2nd.  Colonies  acquired  by  cession. 

"  3rd.  Colonies    acquired   by  the    settlement,  in  unoccupied 
places,  of  British  subjects. 

"For  colonies  acquired  by  conquest  or  by  cession,  the  Crown,  as 
distinct  from,  though  not,  of  course,  independent  of,  the  Parliament, 
possesses  the  power  of  legislation.  The  Cape  is  one  of  these  colonies. 
For  colonies  of  the  third  class — colonies  by  occupation,  or  plantations, 
in  the  stricter  sense  of  the  term — the  Crown,  as  distinct  from  Parlia- 
ment, cannot  legislate. 

"  Is,  then,  the  Orange  River  Sovereignty  a  colony  by  conquest  ?  or 
a  colony  by  cession  ?  or  a  colony  by  occupancy  ? 

"  Conquest,  except  in  the  feudal  sense  of  the  term,  wliich  is  not  the 
sense  it  has  here,  would  appear  to  be  out  of  the  question. 

"  Cession,  considered  as  a  groimd  of  title,  appears  to  me  to  be  just 
as  inadmissible.  There  was  nothing  that  pm-ported  to  be  a  cession. 
There  Avere  no  chiefs  of  such  stamp  and  standing  as  it  would  be 
worthy  of  the  British  name  to  take  a  cession  fi-om ;  and  there  were  no 
Buch  chiefs,  such  as  they  were,  whom  his  Excellency,  without  ham- 
pering himself  and   doing  injustice   to  others,   coidd  recognize  as 


COLONY  BY  OCCUPANCY.  299 

owning  collectively  the  entire  territory.  Neither  as  a  fact  nor  as  a 
tiction  does  title  by  cession  strike  my  humble  judgment  as  one  which 
should  be  set  up. 

"  Is,  then,  the  Orange  River  Sovereignty  a  colony  by  occupancy  ? 
At  first  sight  it  scarcely  seems  to  be  so." 

Mr.  Porter  proceeds  to  offer  various  remarks  under  this 
head,  and  then  draws  his  conclusion,  that  it  is  a  colony  hy 
occupancy,  as  follows  : — 

"  I  avoid  all  attempt  to  define  the  sort  of  native  occupation  which, 
when  it  exists,  makes  European  intrusion  robbery  ;  and  when  it  does 
not  exist,  makes  European  intrusion  rightful.  But  when,  as  matter 
of  fact,  British  subjects  have  got,  in  large  numbers,  amongst  barba- 
rous or  semi-barbarous  people,  and  brought  about  such  a  state  of 
things  that,  if  our  support  were  once  withdrawn,  the  natives  would 
sink  into  serfs  upon  the  face  of  the  land,  I  regard  the  occupancy  of 
those  British  subjects  as  being  in  the  nature  of  ahnost  every  occupancy 
of  which  we  have  the  history,  and  am  disposed  to  A-iew  the  colony 
created  by  the  declaration  of  British  Sovereignty,  as  a  colony  by  oc- 
cupancy, instead  of  by  conquest  or  by  cession.  If  the  Orange  River 
Sovereignty  be  a  colony  of  this  description,  provision  for  its  future 
government  ought,  it  would  seem,  to  be  made  by  Parliament." 

In  Jul}',  1850,  Lord  Grey  wrote  to  the  Governor,  that 
the  Lords  of  the  Committee  of  Privy  Council  regarded  the 
Sovereignty,  in  the  light  of  a  conquered,  and  not  a  ceded 
territory.     His  Lordship  says — 

"In  reference,  however,  to  the  subject  of  the  Orange  Sovereignty, 
I  have  to  inform  you  that  it  has  been  found  impossible,  dui-ing  the 
present  session,  owing  to  the  pressure  of  other  business  of  great  im- 
portance, to  bring  it  under  the  consideration  of  Parliament  in  the 
form  of  a  bill,  as  advised  by  the  Committee. 

"  You  will,  however,  observe  that  this  advice  of  the  Committee  is 
not  founded  on  any  opinion  of  their  own,  that  Parliamentary  enactment 
is  absolutely  necessary.  They,  on  the  contrary,  regard  the  Orange 
Sovereignty  in  the  light  of  a  conquered  territory,  the  Government  of 
which  Her  Majesty  could,  on  ordinary  principles,  constitute  by  virtue 
of  her  prerogative.  Their  recommendation  rests  on  tlie  ground  of 
Mr.  Porter's  opinion,  and  not  their  own,  and  of  the  inconvenience 
which  would  result  from  atlopting  a  course  which  the  chief  law 
advisers  of  the  colony  consider  illegal.     And  I  may  remind  you  that 


300  COLONY  BY  CESSION. 

this  Committee  comprised  among  its  legal  members  the  present  Lord 
Chief  Justice  of  England,  Sir  Edward  llyan,  and  Sir  James  Stephen. 
"  If,  on  farther  consideration  of  the  subject,  Mr.  Porter,  and  the 
other  legal  authorities  of  the  colony  whom  you  may  think  proper  to 
consult,  should  see  reason  to  concur  with  the  Committee,  it  might  be 
unnecessary  to  incur  the  inconvenience  of  deferring  the  final  settlement 
of  this  question  until  the  next  session  of  Parliament." 

In  September,  1850,  the  Governor  referred  the  matter  to 
the  re-consideration  of  Mr.  Porter,  with  a  new  view  of  the 
case,  in  the  following  terms  : — 

"  His  Excellency  observes  that  you  hold  the  Orange  Kiver  Sover- 
eignty to  be  'a  colony  by  occupancy ;'  and,  being  apprehensive  that 
you  had  not  a  full  statement  of  the  facts  of  the  case  before  you  when 
you  pronoiinced  that  opmion,  has  desu-ed  me,"  says  his  secretary,  "to 
submit  the  question  for  your  re-consideration. 

"  Before  the  emigration  of  British  subjects  into  the  country  north  of 
the  Orange  E-iver  commenced,  that  coiuitry  must  be  held  to  have 
belonged  to  the  native  chiefs ;  nor  was  the  occupation  of  British 
subjects  in  any  way  recognized,  so  as  to  make  the  Sovereignty  a 
British  possession,  lontil  the  date  of  his  Excellency's  Proclamation  of 
3rd  February,  1848. 

"  Previously  to  tlie  issue  of  that  Proclamation,  his  Excellency  had 
conferred  with  all  the  native  chiefs,  who  agreed  to  cede  the  Sover- 
eignty of  the  country  to  him,  as  Her  Majesty's  representative,  as  the 
means  of  sec\rring  British  protection.  His  Excellency  has  desired  me 
to  ascertain  whether  this  circumstance,  which  he  believes  was  not 
before  clearly  stated  to  you,  makes  any  difference  in  the  opinion 
above  quoted." 

Mr.  Porter  having  re-considered  the  subject,  now  de- 
cided that  the  Sovereignty  was  a  colony  by  cession,  although 
he  had  befoi-e  thought  that  "  there  was  nothing  that  pur- 
ported to  be  a  cession — and  no  chiefs  competent  to  make  a 
cession  ! "     Mr.  P.  remarks  : — 

"  I  am  glad  that  his  Excellency's  attention  has  been  drawn  to  that 
opinion,  since  the  result  is  to  set  me  right  upon  a  question  of  fact,  in 
regard  to  which  I  had  fallen  into  error. 

"His  Excellency's  statement  of  what  took  place  beyond  the  Orange 
River  previous  to  the  issue  of  his  Proclamation  of  the  3rd  February, 
1848,  establishes  that  the  native  chiefs  then  made  a  cession  of  the 
country  now  called  '  The  Sovereignty.' 


COLONY  BY  CONQUEST.  301 

'*  The  Orange  River  Sovereignty  must,  therefore,  (contrary  to  my 
impression  when  writing  in  March  1849,)  be  deemed  to  be  a  colony  by 
cession,  and  not,  as  I  was  disposed  to  think,  when  ignorant  that  the 
chiefs  had  agreed  -with  his  Excellency  to  cede  the  Sovereignty  of  the 
country  to  Her  Majesty,  a  colony  by  occupancy. 

"  The  title  by  conquest  his  Excellency  appears,  with  myself,  to 
view  as  one  which  is  inconsistent  with  the  facts  of  the  case,  since  we 
never,  at  any  time,  were  engaged  in  hostilities  with  any  native  chief 
in  that  country ;  and  since  we  could  not,  of  course,  make  title  by 
conquest  under  those  rapid  and  successful  military  movements 
against  rebel  British  subjects,  which  did  not  go  before,  but,  on  the 
contrary,  followed,  the  Proclamation  of  the  3rd  February,  1848,  esta- 
blishing Her  Majesty's  authority. 

"  Title  by  cession  is,  however,  quite  another  thing  ;  and  bemg  of 
opinion  that  no  particular  form  is  necessary  to  such  a  cession,  nor 
anything  except  an  intention  to  cede  the  Sovereignty  and  the  country, 
sufficiently  expressed  by  chiefs  competent  to  make  the  cession,  I 
think  it  quite  clear,  from  his  Excellency's  statement,  that  the  Orange 
River  Sovereignty  is  a  colony  by  cession,  and  subject  to  the  legislation 
of  the  Crown." 

This  opinion  of  the  Attorney-General  is  transmitted  to 
Earl  Grey  on  the  8th  October,  1850,  and  on  11th  Feb- 
ruaiy,  1851,  his  Lordship  promises  to  send  out  im- 
mediately the  Commission  required  by  the  Governor,  to 
authorize  him  to  assume  the  Government  of  the  Orange 
River  Sovereignty ;  and  this  was  accordingly  done  on  tlie 
•25th  March,  when  letters  patent  were  forwarded  to  Sir 
H.  Smith,  "erecting  the  Orange  River  territory  into  a 
separate  Government,  to  be  administered  by  the  Governor 
of  the  Cape,  and  by  the  Lieutenant-Governor  of  the  said 
territory."  That  is,  after  all,  that  the  colony  is  a  colony 
by  conquest,  and  consequently  can  be  governed  by  Her 
Majesty,  without  an  appeal  to  Parliament! 

There  is  something  in  all  this,  passing  strange!  "There 
is  no  conquest,"  says  the  Governor.  "  Conquest  is  out  of 
the  question,"  echoes  the  Attorney- General.  "It  is  a 
colony  by  conquest,"  say  the  Lords  of  the  Council.  "  It 
is  not  cession,"  says  the  Attorney-General,  "  for  there 
were  no  parties  competent  to  cede  it,  and  therefore  it  is  a 
colony   by   occupancy."     "  But   the   chiefs   did   cede  the 


302  TKANSFORMING  POWER  OF  LAW. 

Sovereignty  to  him,"  says  the  Governor,  on  second 
thoughts.  Then,  rejoins  the  Attorney- General,  "  It  is 
quite  clear,  from  His  Excellency's  statement,  that  it  is  a 
colony  hij  cession."  And  on  hearing  this,  the  Imperial 
Government  still  placidly  Avhispers,  "  It  is  a  colony  by 
conquest;"  and  then  issues  letters  patent  accordingly  for 
its  government. 

Marvellous  is  the  transforming  power  of  Law !  ay ! 
even  of  a  fiction  of  Law.  It  gives  reality  to  non-existence, 
and  form,  and  shape,  and  colour  to  airy  subtleties ;  calls 
tilings  that  are  not,  as  though  they  were;  proclaims  a  con- 
quest where  there  has  been  no  struggle  ;  claims  paramount 
authority  over  chiefs,  to  prevent  their  mutual  quarrels,  and 
places  the  paw  of  the  British  Lion  on  the  necks  of  them 
all ;  accepts  their  request  for  friendly  interposition,  and 
then  seizes  all  their  possessions ;  steps  forward  to  mark 
boundary  lines  to  their  respective  inheritances,  and  claims 
them  all  as  "a  Sovereignty"  for  itself;  recognizes  in 
unhesitating  terms  their  respective  and  inalienable  rights, 
and  then  absorbs  them  all ;  caresses  a  powerful  chief,  ap- 
plauds him  as  humane  and  peaceful,  and  then  says  "he 
must  be  humbled;"  dances  a  polka  with  him;*  permits 
enemies  to  attack  him  ;  forbids  his  defending  himself,  on 
pain  of  foi'feiting  our  friendship,  and  then  rewards  his 
unsuspecting  confidence  by  depriving  him  of  a  large  slice 
of  his  territory  ;  throws  the  aegis  of  the  British  shield  over 
his  land  for  his  protection,  and  then  calls  it  a  "  British 
Sovereignty,"  "obtained  by  conquest."  "  Veni,  Vicli,  Vici!" 
Conquered,  undoubtedly,  by  theodolites,  tapes,  chains, 
maps,  and  diagrams,  and  "  letters  patent." 

And  then,  gravely  adds  Earl  Grey,  "  Wherever  British 
Sovereignty  extends,  the  people  then  become  British 
subjects!"   Marvellous  tkis  transforming  power  of  Law  ! 

*  Sir  II.  Smitli,  her  ^Majesty's  representative,  thus  endearingly 
expressed  his  regard  for  Moshesh  "on  the  hght  fantastic  toe" — the 
same  toe  that  was  equally  fantastic,  hut  less  light,  on  the  neck  of  poor 
Macomo. 


ANNEXATION.  303 

— Moshesh,  Moletsani,  Moroko,  Sikonyella,  and  a  host  of 
men  of  euphonious  name,  all  constituted,  by  the  Colonial 
Office  pen,  British  Subjects,  without  their  wish,  and  without 
giving  them  a  hint  about  it.  There  they  are,  nolens,  volens, 
and  more  of  the  former  than  the  latter,  "British  "  subjects. 
Marvellous  this  power  of  Great  Britain  !  Most  surprising 
this  influence  of  the  Colonial  Office  !  Magical,  mysterious, 
almost  miraculous,  this  transforming  energy  of  the  Privy 
Council !  Fifty  thousand  square  miles  of  territory — waste 
and  void,  or  occupied  by  native  allies — transmuted  in  a 
moment  into  a  British  Sovereignty,  with  all  its  tribes  of 
sable  men,  who  dreamt  they  were  free  and  independent, 
and  awoke,  and  behold  it  was  a  dream  ! — they  had  become 
"  amenable  to  the  British  Laws ! " 

And  why  not?  Why  should  not  England  keep  pace 
with  other  noble  lands,  in  the  glorious  struggle  for 
annexation  ?  Is  Eussia  to  have  Poland,  America  the 
Texas,  France  Algeria  and  Tahiti?  Then  why  should  not 
Great  Britain  have  also  Kaffraria  and  the  Orange  Eiver 
Sovereignty  ? 

And  after  all,  let  it  be  remembered,  these  are  07ily 
coloured  races,  and  semi-civilized  tribes,  who  ought  to  be 
put  on  the  proof  that  they  have  a  right  to  occupy  any  nook 
in  this  fair  globe  of  ours,  if  we  want  it — a  globe,  evidently 
destined  for  the  Anglo-Saxon  race  !  The  least  they  can 
do  is  to  beg  pardon,  as  Piobert  Hall  said  in  another  case, 
"  of  every  man  they  meet,  for  having  ventured  to  come 
into  the  world." 

Bloem  Fontein,  the  seat  of  British  Government  in  this 
Sovereignty,  has  nothing  to  recommend  it,  in  its  natvu-al 
features.  The  scenery  is  extremely  uninteresting.  There 
is  no  wood,  and  little  water. 

The  plan  of  a  town  is  laid  out.  The  foundation  of  a 
church  is  laid.  A  court-house  and  a  prison  exist.  There 
are  about  forty  or  fifty  toleral)le  houses  built ;  there  arc  a 
few  stores  and  shops,  a  market-place  with  a  bell  to  an- 
nounce the  time  when  sales  take  place,  and  a  clerk  of  the 


304  BLOKM  FONTEIN. 

niiirket  apjiointcd.  A  good  well  has  been  sunk,  and  ;ii 
forty  foot  depth,  a  supply  of  water  is  found  from  six  to 
nine  feet.  The  inhabitants  have  wisely  asked  to  Ix 
formed  into  a  municipality,  and  their  request  has  been 
granted.  Here  is  also  a  fortress,  a  few  cannon,  part  of  ;i 
regiment,  a  major,  one  hundred  Cape  Mounted  Eifles,  and 
barracks,  as  the  usual  materials  of  an  improving  com 
mimity. 

There  is  also  a  Government  school-house,  but,  at  tin 
time  of  my  visit,  without  scholars  or  master.  Eeligiou- 
services  were  held  there  on  Sunday.  Mr.  Murray,  son  of 
the  Dutch  clergyman  of  Graaff  Eeinet,  has  received  thr 
appointment  to  the  new  church.  He  diligently  and 
laudably  employs  himself,  during  a  great  part  of  his  tinif. 
in  travelling  among  the  emigrant  farmers  in  the  interior. 
and  conducting  religious  services.  During  our  brief  sojourii 
in  the  town,  we  held  a  public  Missionary-  Meeting,  which 
was  well  attended,  as  were  also  the  services  on  Sunday. 

Major  Warden,  the  Resident,  happened  to  be  absent  from 
town  while  we  were  there. 

It  appears  he  was  out  with  some  troops  in  pursuit  of 
some  Bushmen,  who  had  lately  been  guilty  of  a  murder. 
A  farmer  had  been  shot  by  them,  his  wife  and  children 
murdered,  and  a  sen^ant  also.  The  house  was  then 
plundered  and  set  fire  to.  The  farmer  is  reported  to  have 
been  a  man  of  violent  temper,  had  been  severe  with  thi 
Bushmen,  and  they  had  threatened  to  take  their  reveng*  . 
The  farmer  had,  a  day  or  two  previously,  threatened  h( 
would  shoot  a  Basuto,  whose  cattle  annoyed  him  bv 
trespassing  on  his  ground.  He  spoke  about  it  deliberate]} 
to  a  friend,  and  said  he  was  determined  to  shoot  the  man. 
His  friend  and  his  wife  advised  him  rather  to  proceed  to 
Bloemx  Fontein,  and  lodge  a  legal  complaint  against  the 
man,  and  so  obtain  redress.  "Without  promising  to  comply, 
he  remained  at  home,  and  was  murdered  by  the  Bushmen 
that  Sunday  evening.  As  soon  as  the  fact  became  known, 
the  farmers  in  the  neighbourhood,  as  in  their  own  defence 


BUSHMEN  DESTROYED.  305 


j  set  out  in  pursuit  of  the  supposed  murderers,  but  were 
i  unable  to  succeed  in  taking  them, 

j  How  many  Bushmen  they  killed  or  took  prisoners  prior 
i  to  the  arrival  of  the  Major  and  his  troops,  I  did  not  hear ; 
1  but  it  is  said  the  Bushmen  defended  themselves  vigorously 
'  with  one  gun  and  some  poisoned  arrows.  On  the  arrival  of 
the  Major,  six  of  them  were  killed  in  the  attempt  to  arrest 
them ;  six  others  were  made  prisoners,  and  reserved  for  trial. 
These  I  was  informed,  were  found  guilty,  and  hanged, 
and  upwards  of  100  (it  is  said  130)  were  taken  and  dis- 
tributed among  the  farmers  for  service.  It  seems  that  one 
man  had  been  admitted  as  Queen's  evidence,  and  that  the 
details  of  the  murder  had  been  obtained  from  him.  He 
pleaded  that  he  was  induced  to  join  the  party  under  false 
representations,  and  that,  having  been  brought  near  the 
house,  and  there  first  made  acquainted  with  the  real  de- 
sign, he  abstained  from  further  proceedings.  One  farmer 
had  since  died  of  the  wounds  which  he  received  from  a 
poisoned  arrow.  Here  is  an  instance  of  the  old  Com- 
mando system  bi'ought  again  into  operation.  But  by 
what  law  the  130  men  have  been  made  slaves,  and  dis- 
tributed for  compulsory  service  among  the  farmers — that  is 
to  say,  reduced  to  slaveiy — I  have  not  been  able  to  learn. 
Yet  all  this  is  done  within  the  British  Sovereignty. 

About  a  month  prior  to  the  murder  detailed  in  the  pre- 
ceding page,  it  appears  that  a  farmer  and  some  of  his 
friends  residing  near  Elandberg  (not  more  than  three 
hours'  ride  from  Mr.  Roland's  station  at  Beersheba)  went 
to  a  BTishmau's  kraal,  and  accused  him  of  having  carried 
off  his  daughter.  The  man  directed  the  father  to  ask  first 
of  his  daughter  how  the  case  stood,  and  she  confessed  that, 
having  been  refused  permission  to  smoke  tobacco  at  home, 
she  had  left  her  father's  house  and  accompanied  the  man. 
The  Bushman  was  then  shot  dead  on  the  spot,  the  young 
woman  was  flogged,  and  taken  away  home  by  her  father 
{enceinte).  The  murderer  went  to  rcpoit,  liimsclf  uiid  liis 
case  to  the  British  Besidcnt,  and  so  tho  ailair  Icrniinated. 


300  COUKT-MARTIAL. 

But,  amidst  such  proceedings — violent  and  lawless — can 
it  be  otherwise  than  that  peipetual  jealousies  and  revenije 
must  take  place — till  the  miserable  remnant  of  the  Bush- 
men, driven  to  the  rocks,  where  many  now  conceal  thei; 
selves,  shall  be  exterminated  ? 

It  was  here   Sir  Harry  Smith  had  his  camp,  after  thr 
engagement  of  1848  with  the  Boers.     On  that  occasion 
two  men  were   shot  under  the  following   circumstance >. 
Draaier,  a  young  Dutchman,  and   Quigby,  an  Irishman, 
were  taken  prisoners  in  arms   against  the  British.     The 
former  was   an  emigrant,  the  latter  a  deserter  from  the 
British  forces.     They  were   tried  by  a  com't-martial,  on 
Sunday  morning,  and  found  guilty.     They  were  condemned 
to  die,  and  their  graves  were  forthwith  dug,  at  about  a  thou- 
sand paces  from  the  place  of  trial.    For  Quigby  there  was  no 
sympathy  among  his   comrades.     He  was  a  bold,  reckless 
character  ;  a  fine,  stout,  healthy  man,   about  twenty-eight 
years   of  age.     Draaier,  it  ai:»pears,  had  been  forced  by  his 
countrymen  into  this  service.     He  had  twice  run  away  from 
it, — so  unwilling  to  enter  the  ranks  against  the  English  : 
and  when  taken,  though  with  arms  in  hand,  he  had  not  used 
them.  His  gun  was  examined,  and  found  perfectly  clean.  It 
had  not  been  fired  off.     The  Governor,  it  is  said,  was  deter- 
mined to  make  an  example,  and  strike  terror  into  the  Boers. 
In  the  latter  it  has  failed.     It  has  caused  hatred — fiercer 
hatred  than  ever,  and  is  believed  to  have  cost,  secretly,  the 
lives  of  many  Englishmen  already,  who  have  ventured  in 
among  the  Boers,  and  never  afterwards  been  heard  of.    The 
wife  of  Draaier  is  young,  and  has  not  ceased  to  weep  for 
what  she  and  her  family  and  friends  regard  as  her  murdered  j 
husband.     The  men  wei'e  executed  on  the  Monday  morning.  | 
_  They  were  led  to  the  place  of  their  graves ;  six  soldiers  fired  i 
— three  balls  struck  each  victim ;  Draaier  died  instantly ;  \ 
Quigby  fell,  but  was  not  mortally  Avounded.     He  was  then  ' 
shot  with  a  pistol  through  the  head,  by  the  quartermaster.  , 
Their  bodies  were  immediately  covered  up  in  the  graves,  j 
and  the  Governor  and  his  attendants  left  Bloem  Fontein. 


' 


PLATBERG.  307 

From  Bloem  Fontein  we  proceeded  to  "  Thaba  Unchu," 
on  our  way  to  the  Basuto  country.  This  station  is  marked 
off  in  the  m.ap  of  the  Sovereignty  as  belonging  to  the 
Barolongs,  a  tribe  of  Bechuanas,  and  is  under  the  chief- 
tainship of  Moroko.  It  is  a  Wesleyan  Mission  station  of 
considerable  importance.  The  Kev.  Mr.  Cameron  resides 
here.  He  was  absent  from  home  when  we  called  there,  as 
was  also  the  chief,  so  that  we  had  not  the  pleasure  of 
meeting  with  either. 

Having  outspanned  in  the  evening,  we  started  early  next 
morning,  and  continued  our  way  across  the  gi'assy  plains  of 
the  countiy,  till  twelve  o'clock,  when  we  rested  two  hours. 
The  mountainous  sceneiy  is  magnificent,  but  the  country  is 
wearisome  and  monotonous  :  no  trees  to  enliven  the  scene, 
not  even  a  bush  to  be  met  with — no  birds  with  cheerful 
song — nor  the  roar  of  a  lion  to  create  a  pleasing  variety. 
The  country  is  adapted  to  grazing,  and  the  cattle  are 
numerous. 

We  ne.xt  reached  Platberg,  a  town  in  the  country  occu- 
pied by  the  Bastaards,  under  the  chieftainship  of  a  smart 
little  native,  Carolus  Batje.  This,  also,  is  a  Wesleyan 
station,  and  we  were  glad  to  renew  our  acquaintance  with 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Giddy,  whom  we  had  met  at  Bloem  Fontein, 
from  whom  we  received  a  cordial  welcome,  and  every  assist- 
ance which  he  could  render  us  in  lending  and  procuring 
oxen  for  our  journey.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  here  are 
industrious  and  thrifty,  and  appear  to  be  in  circumstances 
of  considerable  comfort.  We  counted  nearly  twenty  wagons 
standing  about.  The  village  had  a  lively  appearance  in 
the  evening,  from  the  number  of  fires  that  were  lighted  in 
the  houses  of  the  villagers.  The  place  is  well  supplied 
with  water.  There  are  many  gardens,  and  nuich  land  is 
cultivated.  Corn  of  all  kinds  is  extensively  rais(!d.  The 
Bastaards  purchase  it  of  the  natives,  and  supply  tlie  neigh- 
bourhood for  many  miles  round. 

We  ascended  the  kloof  at  Platberg,  not  far  distant  from 
Mr.  Giddy 's  residence.     It  is  a  noble  kloof,  and,  as  one  of 


;108  8PLENDID  RAVINE. 

the  stupendous  works  of  nature  in  this  countiy,  well  worth 
the  fiitigue  of  a  visit  to  see  it.  With  some  difficulty  we 
reached  its  extreme  point,  where  the  spring  of  water  from 
the  high  ground  falls  perpendicularly  over  some  lofty  rock> 
of  sandstone,  and  from  thence  proceeds  through  the  valley 
in  the  kloof,  and  supplies  a  stream  to  irrigate  the  grouii'l 
and  gardens  around  Platherg.  On  our  return  to  Mi- 
Giddy 's,  hreakfastwas  welcome,  and  having  done  justice  to 
it  and  oui'selves,  we  proceeded  on  our  joiiraey  to  Thaha 
Bossio.  There  commenced  our  visit  to  the  French  Mi>- 
sionaiy  stations  in  the  Basuto  countiy,  and  to  those  sta 
tions  I  propose  to  devote  the  nest  chapter. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

THE  BASUTO  COUNTRY,  AND  FRENCH 

MISSIONS. 

EARLY  RESIDENCE  OF  MOSHESH— HIS  EARLY  STRUGGLES THABA   BOSSIO 

POLYGAMY CHARACTER    OF    MOSHESH HUMANITY  OF  HIS  TRIBE 

WATERBOER MOSHFSH's     ESTIMATE     OF     WATERBOER COMPRE- 
HENSIVE   VIEWS    OF    MOSHESH HIS    COMPLAINTS TREATIES    MADE 

WITH    HIM GOVERNOR    MAITLAND FIDELITY    OF    MOSHESH CON- 
DUCT OF  GOVERNMENT — MOSHESH  ASKS  REDRESS FORCED  TO    SIGN 

AWAY   HIS    TERRITORY— VISIT    TO    MOSHESH CONVERSATION  WITH 

MOSHESH— INTELLIGENCE    OF    THE    PEOPLE— DIFFICULTIES    OF    THE 

MISSIONARY APPEAL  OP  MOSHESH  TO  HER  MAJESTY LETTER  FROM 

MOSHESH — LETTER  TO  LORD  JOHN  RUSSEL SIR  H.  SMITh's    DENIAL 

EXTENT  OF  TERRITORY  LOST — MORIJA FEELINGS  OF  THE  PEOPLE 

PRINTING-PRESS CONVERSION      OF     LIBEY COMPANIONS      SEPA- 
RATE  DEATH  OF  MISS  CHRISTIE ROBERT  MOFFAT — MOKUATLING 

ATTACK  OF  CORANNAS MISSION    STATION — ^CANNIBAL  CAVES CAN- 
NIBALS   WATCHING    THEIR    PREY EXTIRPATION    OF    THAT    HORRID 

CUSTOM VISIT  TO  BETHULIA CARMEL TAKING  LIONS  BY  THE  TAIL 

LION     SHOT      AND     KID       SAVED BEERSHEBA MR.       ROLLAND 

ABSENCE  OF  CHILDREN CANNIBALISM. 

The  Basuto  Country,  under  the  chieftain  Moshesh,  now 
constitutes  a  considerable  portion  of  the  "  British 
Sovereignty,"  on  its  eastern  side.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
east  by  a  part  of  the  Witte  Bergen,  or  White  Mountains, 
and  which  separates  it  from  Kaffirland.  These  are  sup- 
posed to  be  about  two  thousand  five  hundred  or  three 
thousand  feet  above  the  surrounding  country,  and  eight 
or  nine  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Much  of 
the  country  is  admirably  described  by  Messrs.  Arbousset 
and  Daumas,  in  their  highly  interesting  volume,  entitled 


310  BIRTHPLACE  OF  MOSHESH. 

"  Relation  d'un  Voyage  d'Exploration  au  Nord-Est  dc  la 
Colonie  dii  Cap  de  Bonne  Esperance,"  and  of  which  a 
faithful  translation  was  made  in  the  colony  by  the  Ile\'. 
J.  C.  Brown. 

A  little  to  the  north  of  the  29th  degi-ee  of  south 
latitude,  and  at  the  base  of  the  great  chain  of  mountains, 
the  jNIaloutis,  stood  the  residence  of  Chaka,  the  Zoolu 
warrior,  and  on  the  other  side  of  that  chain,  in  the 
highest  land  in  South  Africa,  was  the  residence  of  Moshesh. 
Between  them  lies  the  most  elevated  point  of  the  chain. 
and  there  is  one  entire  moimtain  which  is  remarkable  for 
its  length,  the  size  of  the  mass  of  which  it  is  composed. 
and  most  particularly  for  this  circumstance,  that  in  that 
mountain,  the  Vaal,  the  Orange,  and  the  Caledon  Pavers 
have  their  sources.  At  the  sources  of  those  rivers  are 
some  of  the  most  beautiful  and  romantic  valleys  in  South 
Africa,  and  it  was  here  that  Moshesh  was  born,  and  grew 
to  manhood  in  the  midst  of  his  tribe.  The  national  soni^s 
still  celebrate  the  green  pastures  of  Boutabouta,  where 
the  young  Moshesh  hunted  the  eland,  and  speared  the 
W'ild  boar. 

These  halcyon  days,  celebrated  wdth  so  much  pleasure 
by  the  Basutos,  were  not  to  last,  and  the  young  Moshesh 
was  to  be  called  from  the  sports  of  the  field,  to  defend  himself 
and  tribe  against  the  savage  warfare,  that  was  now  carried  on 
against  himself  and  his  j)eople,  by  Matwana  and  Pakarita,* 
who  had  both  come  into  his  neighbourhood.  Seeing  that 
he  could  not  defend  the  open  country  against  the  attacks 
of  such  i^owerful  enemies,  he  drew  his  people  together 
into  the  valleys  of  Boutabouta,  where  he  continued  for 
some  years  to  maintain  his  independence ;  but,  getting 
tired  of  the  terrible  struggle  he  had  to  maintain,  Moshesh 

*  The  former,  a  chief  who  had  heen  defeated  by  Chaka,  and  the 
latter,  a  Fingo  chief,  on  whom  the  famished  remnant  of  Matwana's 
tribe  fell.  He  attacked  in  turn  the  Mantatees,  and  they,  the  Bechua- 
nas,  destroying  the  vestiges  of  civilization  which  Mi-.  Campbell  had 
seen  in  his  journey  to  Kurrechene. 


CHOICE  OF  THABA  BOSSIO.  311 

meditated  the  means  of  extricating  himself  from  these 
scenes  of  hori'or.  Pakarita  had  just  fallen  beneath  the 
power  of  Matwana,  and  the  latter  had  set  out  on  an  ex- 
pedition against  the  Tambookies.  The  Mantatees,  under 
their  chief  Sikonyella,  still  held  possession  of  a  mountain, 
from  which  their  enemies  were  not  able  to  expel  them  ; 
but  the  surface  of  the  mountain,  though  extensive,  not 
being  capable  of  affording  pasturage  to  all  the  cattle 
which  they  required,  they  became  a  band  of  freebooters. 
No  longer  in  dread  of  the  chief  and  people,  whom 
Matwana  had  left  behind  him,  they  began  to  be  trouble- 
some ;  but,  having  given  them  a  signal  defeat,  Moshesh 
embraced  the  opjiortunity  now  afforded  him  of  emi- 
grating with  his  people  to  Thaba  Bossio,  where  he  now 
resides.  This  remarkable  spot  is  about  seventy  or  eighty 
miles  south-west  of  Boutabouta,  and  about  fifteen  from 
the  Blue  Mountains,  or  Maloutis.  It  was  chosen  by  the 
chief  as  his  future  residence,  on  account  of  an  isolated  table 
mountain,  to  which  he  and  his  people  could  retreat  when 
attacked,  and  on  which  it  would  be  an  easy  matter  for  them 
to  defend  themselves  against  the  enemies  of  whom  they 
had  any  dread.  The  mountain  has  a  plateau  on  its 
summit,  nearly  a  league  in  circumference.  It  is  accessible 
only  by  five  ravines,  and  these  are  capable  of  being  easily 
defended  against  any  forces  which  their  enemies  among 
the  natives  could  bring  against  them. 

The  mountain  is  called  Thaba  Bossio,  or  the  "  Mountain 
of  Night,"  and  presents  a  very  picturesque  appearance  from 
the  surrounding  country.  On  its  summit  there  are  three 
separate  villages.  Here  Moshesh  has  two  tolerably  well- 
built  stone  houses,  and  which  might  be  exceedingly 
comfortable  and  respectable,  if  he  had  but  a  wife  to  look 
after  them.  He  has  so  many,  (it  is  said  fifty),  that  nobody 
attends  to  them  properly,  and  they  are  becoming  dilapi- 
dated. There  has  also  been  excellent  and  expensive 
furniture  ;  but  here  also  is  seen  the  curse  and  misery  of 
polygamy,  for  everything  is  ruined  and  perishing. 


312  HISTORY  OF  MOSHESH. 

The  summit  of  this  mountain  is  indurated  sandstone 
resting  on  granite.  The  French  Mission  premises,  which 
stand  in  a  gorge  near  the  base  of  the  mountain,  add  an 
indescribable  charm  to  the  picture.  They  rest  on  ground 
which  has  been  raised  above  the  base  of  the  mountain, 
and  is  thought  to  be  of  more  recent  formation  than 
Thaba  Bossio.  The  ascent  to  the  plateau  is  neither 
difficult  nor  dangerous,  but  somewhat  fatiguing. 

One  of  the  principal  paths  consists  of  a  basaltic  dyke, 
about  ten  feet  in  Avidth,  formed  when  in  a  molten  state. 
and  which  has  acted  strongly  on  all  the  sandstone  in  its 
immediate  vicinity.  It  has  passed  down  one  side  of  the 
hill,  and  after  meeting  some  obstruction  there,  has  crossed 
the  valley  and  intersected  the  hills  on  the  opposite  side. 

Moshesh  is  favourably  known  already  by  all  those  who 
take  an  interest  in  South  African  politics,  and  by  all  who 
are  familiar  with  the  valuable  and  successful  Missions 
established  in  his  country  by  the  Paris  Missionary  Society. 
It  may  not  be  unacceptable  to  add  here  a  few  notices 
connected  with  the  fmlher  histoiy  and  character  of  this 
remarkable  man. 

He  is  endowed  with  a  mind  naturally  fond  of  improve- 
ment. He  seems  to  have  felt  that  his  tribe  Avas  in  a  state 
of  bai'barous  ignorance,  even  before  the  contrast  presented 
by  civilized  nations  had  apprised  him  of  the  fact.  Not 
more  than  thirty  years  ago,  he  had  not  as  much  as  a 
suspicion  of  the  existence  of  white  nations,  and  had 
never  seen  either  a  gun  or  a  horse  ;  he  is  now  perhaps 
possessed  of  the  gi-eatest  number  of  fire-arms  and  horses 
of  any  chief  in  South  Africa. 

His  eager  disposition  to  reform  is  seconded  in  him  by 
a  total  absence  of  those  superstitious  fears  which  exert  so 
baneful  an  influence  on  the  minds  of  his  countiymen.  He 
appears  to  have,  even  from  his  childhood,  considered  as 
false  all  pretensions  to  supernatural  power  in  man.  In 
order  to  satisfy  himself  and  others  on  this  subject,  he 
feigned  on  two  occasions  to  be  very  ill,  and  consulted  the 


CHARACTER  OF  MOSHKSH.  313 

most  accredited  ivitch  smellers  of  the  country.  They  went 
through  all  then-  usual  ceremonies,  pointed  out  the  guilty 
persons,  and  pronounced  their  doom,  to  the  great  amaze- 
ment and  amusement  of  the  young  chief,  who  was  con- 
scious of  enjoying  perfect  health. 

One  of  his  most  commendable  traits  is  a  perfect  com- 
mand of  his  temper,  and  a  natural  dislike  to  harsh 
measures,  and  any  kind  of  revenge. 

This  he  has  displayed  on  many  occasions,  to  a  most 
astonishing  degree.  Some  years  ago,  being  on  the  eve  of 
undertaking  a  warlike  expedition  against  the  Tambookies, 
he  placed  his  children  and  his  people  under  the  protection 
of  Sikonyella,  a  chief  of  the  Mantatee  tribe,  who  had  beeu 
for  a  long  time  his  most  inveterate  enemy. 

Sikonyella  appeared  to  feel  himself  honoured  by  that 
mark  of  confidence,  and  gave  the  most  solemn  promises. 
Moshesh  had,  however,  no  sooner  departed  with  all  his 
foi'ces,  than  Sikonyella  sent,  in  the  most  treacherous  man- 
ner, a  strong  party  of  men  to  destroy  the  people  of  Thaba 
Bossio. 

Happily,  the  old  men  left  at  home,  and  some  courageous 
females,  repelled  the  attack,  and  gave  the  Mantatees  cause 
to  repent  of  it.  Moshesh,  at  his  return,  felt  extremely 
indignant ;  but  to  the  present  day  has  abstained  from 
revenge. 

He  has  also,  by  his  example  and  interference,  imparted 
to  his  tribe  a  character  of  humanity  and  gentleness  of 
manners,  very  remarkable.  Kobberies  and  murders  are 
almost  unheard  of.  Foreigners  are  everywhere  respected 
and  well  received.  Capital  punishments  have  been  long 
abolished,  and  replaced  by  heavy  fines.  "I  wonder,"  said 
Moshesh  to  a  friend,  discussing  that  subject,  "that  kings 
should  not  have  all  felt  the  projiriety  of  following  the 
example  of  God,  in  the  punishment  of  crime.  There  are 
many  men  who  do  not  fear  death  ;  but  there  are  none  above 
the  dread  of  a  life  of  want  and  infamy."  These  observa- 
tions of  his  are  given  here  without  discussion  on  their  merit. 


314  OPINION  OF  WATERBOER. 

The  only  chief  in  South  Africa,  with  whom  Moshesh 
may  be  compared,  is  Waterboer ;  and  yet  the  circum- 
stances under  Avhich  their  minds  have  been  formed, 
and  the  respective  features  of  their  character,  differ  in 
so  many  points,  that  it  Avould  require  much  time  and 
very  ample  details  to  do  them  justice.  Both  consider 
Christianity  as  the  source  of  European  greatness,  and  as 
the  only  instrument  by  which  barbarous  or  savage  tribes 
around  them  can  be  elevated  ;  but  the  views  of  Moshesli 
are  more  vague  and  indefinite  on  this  subject,  than  those 
of  Waterboer. 

It  is  questionable  whether  Moshesh  is  most  influenced 
by  policy  or  principle,  in  the  favour  he  shows  to  the  pro- 
motion of  the  Christian  religion  among  his  people — per- 
haps the  former  predominates;  but  he  has  a  keen  percep- 
tion of  the  excellency  of  Christian  principle.  The  charac- 
ter of  Waterboer  is  not  unknown  to  him,  and  the  mention 
of  his  name  in  his  hearing,  gave  rise,  says  Dr.  Philip,  to 
one  of  the  finest  bursts  of  feeling  he  had  ever  witnessed. 

Being  asked  if  he  knew  Waterboer,  the  tears  came  into 
his  eyes,  every  feature  of  his  face  glowed  with  admiration 
and  benevolence,  while  he  exclaimed,  "I  have  never  seen 
Waterboer.  Would  that  I  were  near  that  man  !  Water- 
boer is  a  good  man ;  he  saved  thousands  of  my  peoi:)le 
from  destruction ;  rescued  them  out  of  the  hands  of  their 
enemies ;  retook  for  many  of  them  the  cattle  of  which  they 
had  been  robbed ;  fed  those  who  were  entirely  destitute ; 
furnished  them  with  cattle  and  sheep  out  of  his  own  herd^ 
and  flocks,  and  gave  them  leave  to  retvu'n  to  me  with  all 
their  herds,  when  he  knew  I  wished  for  them,  and  could 
protect  them." 

In  this  account  Moshesh  gives  of  the  conduct  of  Water- 
boer towards  his  people,  he  refers  to  the  calamities  brought 
upon  the  Basutos  by  the  invasion  of  their  country  by  the 
Zoolus,  and  the  robberies  committed  on  those  of  them 
who  fled  to  the  west,  and  were  robbed  of  their  cattle  by 
the  Corannas  and  Bergenaars. 


EEMAEKS  OF  MOSHESU.  315 

Waterboer  acted  a  noble  part  to  that  people  in  their  dis- 
tress, and  it  was  by  the  report  of  those  who  had  been  saved 
by  his  instrumentality,  and  who  had  returned  to  Moshesh, 
that  that  chief  had  been  led  to  form  so  favourable  an 
opinion  of  his  character. 

It  was  in  1835,  during  the  Kaffir  war,  that  Moshesh 
began  to  take  a  deep  interest  in  our  colonial  affairs.  The 
progress  of  that  war  was  watched  by  him  with  great  in- 
tensity of  feeling,  and  the  terms  which  were  given  to  the 
Kaffirs,  in  restoring  to  them  their  countiy,  astonished 
him,  and  inspired  him  with  the  most  favourable  opinion  of 
British  justice  and  generosity.  The  favourable  impression 
made  upon  his  mind  by  the  conduct  of  the  Government  in 
this  instance,  has  been  greatly  deepened  by  the  present 
state  of  the  law,  in  reference  to  the  coloured  classes.  A 
generous  and  noble  act  he  can  understand ;  but  he  con- 
fesses that  he  is  lost  in  astonishment  at  the  workings  of  a 
system  that  protects  the  poor  from  the  oppression  of  the 
rich. 

"  My  poor  people,"  says  he,  "go  into  the  colony;  they 
enter  into  contracts  with  colonial  masters  ;  if  they  are 
badly  used,  or  the  conditions  of  their  contracts  are  not 
fulfilled  on  the  part  of  the  masters,  they  have  only  to  com- 
plain to  a  neighbouring  magistrate,  and  they  obtain  re- 
dress ;  and  in  journeys  of  weeks  and  months,  they  return 
home  with  their  little  property  in  as  much  security  as  if 
they  had  had  an  army  to  defend  them ;  while  I  find  that  I 
cannot  save  my  people  from  the  oppression  of  those  who 
should  do  them  justice,  nor  afford  them  protection  if  I  am 
not  myself  present  with  them." 

He  perceives  that  a  nation  must  be  great,  where  the 
poor  can  obtain  justice;  that  the  tribes  of  Africa  never  can 
be  elevated  without  it ;  and  that  it  can  be  obtained  by  the 
principles  of  the  Bible  only ;  but  he  cannot  form  a  con- 
ception of  how  so  much  public  virtue  can  exist  in  a  world 
in  wliich  men  are  so  much  swayed  by  their  private  interests. 

To  see  such  a  mind,  in  such  circumstances,   grappling 


;n6  TREATY  WITH  SIR  0.  KAPIER. 

witli  such  subjects,  furnishes  one  of  the  most  interestinir 
spectacles  which  can  come  within  the  sphere  of  our  obser- 
vation, and  it  is  to  us,  at  this  moment,  doubly  interesting, 
from  the  position  he  occupies,  and  fiom  the  use  the  Go- 
vernment may  make  of  him  for  the  future  security  of  the 
colony,  and  the  preservation  and  improvement  of  the  na- 
tive tribes  of  the  interior.* 

The  Basutos,  with  their  chieftain  Moshesh,  complain 
bitterly  of  the  conduct  of  Sir  H.  Smith  in  depriving  them 
of  a  large  section  of  their  country,  and  yet  they  fear  that 
their  complaints  and  remonstrances  are  in  vain. 

The  history  of  this  case  may  be  summed  up  in  a  short 
compass. 

It  was  shortly  after  the  Kaffir  war  of  1834-5,  that  com- 
munications began  to  be  made  by  the  colonial  Govern- 
ment, of  a  friendly  character,  with  Moshesh.  Sir  B.  D  'Urban 
conveyed  to  bira  messages  and  assurances  of  friendship, 
and  in  the  course  of  a  year  afterwards.  Dr.  AndreAV  Smith, 
a  medical  officer  connected  with  the  Government,  a  highly 
intelligent  and  enterprising  traveller  in  South  Africa,  was 
charged  to  present  Moshesh  with  a  cloak  and  medal,  in 
token  of  his  being  regarded  as  a  friend  of  the  Govern- 
ment. 

Early  in  1842,  the  Rev.  Dr.  Philip  was  visiting  this  part 
of  the  country,  and  suggested  the  idea  of  a  treaty  with  the 
British  Government ;  and  in  1843  a  treaty  was  sent  by  Sir 
G.  Napier,  the  Governor,  and  which  was  signed  by  Moshesh 
hi  the  presence  of  the  Missionaries,  the  principal  men 
of  his  tribe,  and  a  Government  agent.  Some  remon- 
strances were  made  by  the  Wesleyans  against  those  limits 
Accorded  to  Moshesh  in  that  treaty,  which  included  Plat- 
berg,  Thaba  Unchu,  Merumetsu,  and  Lishuani. 

The  emigrant  Boers  employed  all  their  means  to  preju- 
dice IVIoshesh  against  the  British  Government,  but  in  vain  ; 

*  For  some  of  the  above  remarks,  I  have  availed  myself  of  a  small 
unpublished  pamphlet,  given  me  by  Dr.  Philip,  and  I  believe  drawn 
up  by  him. 


sin  p.  MAITLAND.  317 

for  which  the  Lieut.  Governor  Colonel  Hare,  when  on  a 
visit  at  Colesberg,  highly  commended  the  chieftain.  Pot- 
gieter,  a  leading  man  among  the  Boers,  endeavoured 
strongly  to  detach  Moshesh  from  his  connexion  with  the 
British,  but  he  remained  firm  and  unshaken. 

In  1845,  a  war  with  the  emigrant  Boers  broke  out,  and 
Sir  P.  Maitland,  the  Governor,  highly  approved  of  the  con- 
duct of  Moshesh,  who  had  not  suffered  his  alliance  with 
the  British  to  be  violated.  It  was  on  his  meeting  with  the 
Governor  at  Touw  Fontein  tbat  Sir  P.  Maitland  solicited 
a  tract  of  country  from  Moshesh  lying  between  the  Cale- 
don  and  Orange  Rivers,  on  behalf  of  the  emigrant  Boers. 
This  Moshesh  conceded,  and  the  Governor  promised,  on 
his  part,  to  withdraw  the  Boers  within  those  limits,  who 
were  scattering  themselves  over  the  country  of  the  chief 
Shortly  after  this,  another  small  section  of  his  country  was 
solicited,  on  behalf  of  the  Government,  through  Mr.  Jou- 
bert,  for  the  Boers;  and  Moshesh,  in  a  friendly  spirit  that 
did  him  great  credit,  granted  that  also. 

About  the  end  of  1845  or  the  beginning  of  1846,  a  meet- 
ing of  chiefs  was  held  at  Platberg  with  a  view  to  some  final 
arrangement  of  their  disputes  as  to  territorial  boundaries. 
It  was  agreed  that  a  commission  should  be  ajipointed,  and 
Moshesh  was  informed  by  the  Governor  that  it  would  be 
sent. 

In  1846,  a  Kaffir  war  broke  out,  and  Moshesh  was  invited 
to  hold  himself  and  his  people  in  readiness  to  assist  the 
British.  He  made  preparations  accordingly,  and  his  fide- 
lity and  zeal  were  highly  commended  by  the  Government. 

At  the  close  of  that  war.  Sir  H.  Smith  proclaimed  the 
Sovereignty,  as  described  in  the  last  chapter,  and  pro- 
nounced that  natives  should  not  be  removed  from  the  places 
in  which  they  were  then  resident. 

In  April,  1848,  Pretorius  on  behalf  of  the  emigrant  Boers, 
called  Moshesh  to  account  for  having  aided  the  British. 
This  letter  was  reported  to  the  Governor,  who  replied  again 
to  Moshesh  in  high  terms  of  commendation  and  friendship. 


31  S  MOSHESH  DEPRIVED  OF  LAND. 

Within  three  months  the  Boer  war  again  broke  out. 
Moshesh  sent  to  assist  IVIajor  Warden  and  at  the  close  of  that, 
■war  (September)  the  Governor  met  Moshesh  at  \Miibuig 
and  renewed  his  protestations  of  regard  and  friendship. 

Next  month,  SikonyeHa  burnt  a  Basuto  viUage,  and  war 
commenced.  Moshesh  took  cattle  from  him,  which  he  Avas 
ordered  to  return,  by  the  Governor's  Secretary,  without  an 
inquiry  into  the  merits  of  the  case.  This  peremptory  d( - 
mand  exasperated  the  Basutos,  and  the  war  was  re-kindltd. 
The  case  was  referred  to  the  Governor,  and  all  partii  > 
ordered  to  keep  the  peace  for  a  month.  At  the  expiratidu 
of  that  time,  Sikonyella  attacked  the  Basutos  (1st  January 
1849),  killed  several,  and  took  much  cattle  at  Rantsane. 

Just  before  this,  Mr.  Southeyhad  proposed  new  limits  to 
Moshesh,  which  would  deprive  him  of  nearly  half  his  habit- 
able country;  and  to  this  Moshesh  objected,  through  his 
friend  Mr.  Casalis,  as  being  utterly  at  variance  with  the 
treaty  of  1843,  the  minute  at  Touw  Fontein,  made  by  Sir  V. 
Maitland,  the  proclamation  of  Sir  H.  Smith,  SBth  January 
and  3rd  February,  1848,  and  his  renewed  promise  in  Sep- 
tember of  the  same  year. 

While  Sikonyella  was  attacking  Eantsane,  a  letter 
arrived  from  the  Governor,  ordering  both  parties  to  abstain 
from  war  and  to  return  the  cattle  they  had  respectively 
taken.     Limits  were  also  made  for  Sikonyella. 

The  several  chiefs  were  convened  at  Platberg,  in  January 
1849.  Sikonyella  refused  to  attend,  and  said  he  should 
continue  the  war.  Moshesh  wished  Major  Warden  to  use 
his  influence  to  restore  peace,  and  sent  friendly  messages 
to  Sikonyella,  but  in  vain. 

In  April,  Major  Warden  invited  Moshesh  to  meet  him  at 
Koesberg.  Some  twenty-six  days'  delay  occurred  in  con- 
veying the  letter,  and  by  some  unfortunate  contre  temjjs. 
Moshesh  did  not  meet  the  IMajor.  A  petty  warfare  con- 
tinued, and  limits  were  again  prepared  for  Moshesh,  which, 
though  not  depriving  him  of  all  the  land  which  Mr.  Southey 
had  proposed,  greatly  altered  the  boundaries  fixed  by  Sir  G. 


METHOD  OF  DEPEIVATION.  319 

Xapier,  in  the  treaty  of  1843.  In  July,  Moshesh  restored 
the  cattle  he  had  taken,  and  all  parties,  it  was  thought, 
were  satisfied  and  would  remain  at  peace.  An  attack, 
however,  was  made  by  Sikonyella  and  some  Corannas  on 
Molitsani,  many  of  the  people  of  Mokuatling  were  killed, 
and  Basuto  villages  attacked.  Moshesh  writes  then  to  Major 
Warden  for  explanation  and  redi^ess.  The  Major  states, 
that  he  had  ordered  these  invading  parties  to  remain  still  and 
not  make  an  attack.  They  affirm,  that  they  had  the  Major's 
sanction  for  what  they  did.  The  Major  throws  the  blame 
on  Molitsani,  but  gives  no  explanation  as  to  the  attack  on 
the  villages  belonging  to  Moshesh.  An  attack  was  again 
made  on  Mokuatling  ;  many  of  the  people  were  killed  and 
the  villages  burnt.  Moshesh  asks  for  I'edress,  and  refutes 
as  calumnies  the  charges  brought  against  him.  The  chiefs 
are  then  all  summoned  to  Bloem  Fontein,  a  safe  conduct 
is  promised,  and  "  any  injury  done  to  the  tribes  during  the 
meeting  would  be  surely  and  severely  punished." 

And  on  the  '25th  August,  1849,  while  that  meeting  was 
being  held,  Sikonyella  and  the  Corannas  attacked  the 
villages  belonging  to  Moletsani  and  Moshesh,  and  destroyed 
many  of  the  inhabitants.  A  meeting  is  again  summoned. 
Moshesh  did  not  attend  it.  The  limits  for  Moshesh  are 
proposed  to  Letsie,  his  son.  He  refused  to  sign  them,  but 
conveyed  them  to  his  father,  the  Major  explicitly  telling 
him  that  Moshesh  required  to  be  humbled,  or  he  (Major 
Warden)  could  long  since  have  checked  the  Corannas  and 
Sikonyella ;  and  that  he  could  do  nothing  now  to  secure 
peace,  till  these  new  limits  were  signed  by  Moshesh.  The 
chief,  finding  that  he  must  suffer  by  such  a  war,  and  that  his 
enemies  were  backed  and  encouraged  by  the  Government 
authorities,  signed  the  limits,  1st  October,  1849,  still  hoping 
the  Governor  would  not  confirm  them,  and  confiding  in 
his  justice  and  regard  to  his  repeated  promises. 

These  limits  were  then  sent  to  the  Governor  for  confir- 
mation. A  suitable  protest  was  also  sent  by  the  Missionaries 
residing  near  Moshesh,  against  the  manner  in  which  the 


SaO  THABA  nOSSIO. 

GovorniiKMit  authorities  had  acted  in  obtaininr^  these  new 
boundary  lines,  and  defrauding  the  chief  of  so  much  ter- 
ritor>-.  The  Governor,  however,  confirmed  this  new 
boundarv  line,  and  thereby  deprived  Moshesh  of  an  immense 
and  valuable  tract  of  his  country;  assured  the  Missionaries 
that  he  knew  they  were  actuated  by  the  best  of  motives, 
but  thinks  tliey  could  not  form  an  impartial  judgment 
and  do  justice  to  all  parties ! 

We  spent  a  Sunday  at  Thaba  Bossio.  The  Mission 
was  under  the  care  of  the  Rev.  W.  Dyke.  Mr.  Casalis, 
senior  Missionary  of  the  station,  was  absent.  He  had 
lately  proceeded  to  Europe,  on  a  visit  to  the  Paris  Society 
and  his  friends.  We  found  good  congregations,  and,  upon 
the  whole,  an  encouraging  state  of  things,  though,  for  the 
time,  much  interrupted  and  retarded  by  the  political 
troubles  in  which  the  people  were  involved  in  consequence 
of  circumstances  affecting  their  territorial  rights,  as  already 
explained. 

During  our  stay  at  this  station,  we  went  up  early  one 
morning  to  pay  the  chieftain  a  visit.  W^e  found  him  busily 
engaged  in  hearing  a  detailed  account  of  an  affair  which 
had  lately  occinrred  between  Pushule,  his  brother,  and 
Major  Warden,  the  Resident.  He  was  in  his  native  dress. 
and  not  as  he  had  appeared  on  Sunday,  at  chapel,  in  good 
European  clothing.  Mr.  Arbousset,  who  had  accompanied 
us  up  the  hill,  suggested  to  him  that  he  should  make  his 
appearance  in  a  costume  rather  more  befitting  the  cir- 
cumstances of  a  vdsit,  "including  that  of  a  teacher  from 
London,  the  great  city  of  England,  where  the  Queen  of 
Great  Britain  resides !  "  Moshesh  quietly  took  the  hint. 
but  pleaded  as  an  apology,  that  the  teacher  knew  he  had 
clothes,  since  he  had  seen  him  wearing  them  on  Sunday. 
However,  he  went  and  dressed  himself,  and  in  the  mean- 
time we  walked  about  the  hill,  and  enjoyed  a  splendid 
view  of  the  magnificent  Malouti  range. 

After  waiting  about  an  hour,  we  were  invited  into  the 
house,  and  took  our  seats  in  an  inner  room,  on  a  sofa 


CONVERSATION  WITH  MOSIIESH.  821 

covered  with  tiger- skins.  Shortly  afterwards  Moshesh 
entered,  and  several  of  his  people,  and  filled  the  room. 
Mr.  Arbousset  distinctly  explained  to  Moshesh  the  objects 
of  my  visit — that  they  had  relation  to  the  Missions  and 
the  Missionaries,  and  that  I  came  in  no  political  capacity, 
nor  as  a  trader.  He  gave  him  also  an  outline  of  my  jour- 
ney hitherto,  and  of  my  anticipated  route  back  to  England. 
I  then  entered  into  conversation  with  him,  through 
Mr.  Arbousset  as  my  interpreter.  Moshesh  remarked, 
that  he  had  not  referred  on  Sundaij  to  the  matters  on 
which  he  now  wished  to  speak,  because  he  knew  that  that 
was  a  day  we  set  apart  for  our  religious  services.  He  then 
entered  into  a  detailed  relation  of  his  connexion  with  the 
colony,  and  of  the  circumstances  of  which  he  thought  he 
had  just  reason  to  complain,  in  the  treatment  he  had 
received. 

This  statement  of  his  affairs  occupied  a  couple  of  hours, 
when  he  ordered  coffee  to  be  brought  in.  He  again  con- 
tinued his  narrative  till  one  o'clock,  when  he  accompanied 
us  to  Mr.  Dyke's,  w^iere  he  finished  what  he  had  to  say, 
and  then  returned  home.  He  looked  grave  and  earnest, 
honest  and  truthful,  during  his  narrative.  His  people 
listened  with  intense  interest.  They  are  evidently  shrewd 
and  intelligent.  They  perfectly  comprehended  the  whole 
matter  on  which  they  were  conversing.  They  were  quite 
able  to  make  out  a  good  case  for  themselves  ;  and  though 
possibly  there  may  be  a  few  points  in  their  statements 
that  would  admit  of  modification,  it  would  yet  be  most 
difficult  to  prove  that  they  have  not  had  hard  measure, 
very  hard  measure,  dealt  out  to  them. 

These  people  have  a  keen  sense  of  the  just  and  the 
unjust,  the  true  and  the  false,  and  they  deeply  feel  that 
they  have  been  unjustly  and  most  unti-uly  dealt  with,  and 
that  too  by  a  Government  professing  higher  and  nobler 
things.  They  feel  helpless  against  the  power  of  the  Bri- 
tish, and  they  are  hopeless  as  to  obtaining  justice. 

It  is  thus  easy  to  see,  under  such  circumstances,  how 


SiJii  FBJiNCH  MISSIONARIES. 

much  prejudice  is  created  against  the  Missionary  and  his 
uinis.  He  is  looked  on  as  one  of  the  same  people.  He 
is  a  white  man,  and  the  white  man  is  found  to  he  rapa- 
cious and  unjust.  If  the  Missionary  expresses  dissatisfac- 
tion witli  such  measures — and  how  can  he  avoid  it? — then 
he  is  not  only  obliged  to  enter  into  perpetual  collision  with 
the  Government,  but  to  make  himself  of  easy  access  to  the 
native,  to  listen  to  all  his  complaints,  to  find  much  of  his 
valuable  time  consumed  in  these  appeals,  and  yet  to  be 
able  to  secure  for  them  little  or  no  redress. 

And  in  these  French  Missions  in  the  Basuto  country, 
there  is  the  additional  difficulty,  that  its  Missionaries  are 
French  and  not  English,  and  have  felt  themselves  placed 
in  the  most  delicate  position,  lest  as  natives  from  a  foreign 
government  they  might  give  offence  to  the  British  Govern- 
ment by  their  interference  in  the  politics  of  the  country. 
For  these  prudential  reasons,  the  Directors  of  the  Society 
in  Paris  have  restricted  their  agents  here  from  interference 
in  these  matters,  lest  they  should  at  all  compromise  them- 
selves Avith  the  Government,  and  thereby  endanger  their 
Missions  altogether. 

This  has  rendered  them  so  cautious,  as  to  awaken 
occasionally  a  suspicion  in  the  minds  of  the  natives,  that 
they  do  not  sufficiently  sympathise  with  thein,  or  that,  if 
English  Missionaries  had  been  on  the  spot,  instead  of 
French,  native  interests  might  have  been  better  defended 
and  secured. 

Before  INIoshesh  left  me  to  return  to  his  village  on  the 
hill,  he  placed  in  my  hand  a  written  document,  most 
strongly  requesting  me  to  bring  his  case  under  the  notice 
of  her  Majesty's  Government,  on  my  return  home. 

It  will  have  been  already  seen,  that  I  stated  his  case  to 
Earl  Grey  in  my  letters  from  the  colony  and  the  Mauritius. 
On  reaching  England,  I  again  stated  the  case  to  his 
Lordship,  and  I  placed  in  the  hands  of  Lord  John  Eussell, 
as  Premier,  the  document  with  which  Moshesh  had  intrusted 
me,  as  containing  his  touching  appeal  to  her  Majesty.     I 


MOSHESH  TO  QUEEN  VICTOKLA..  323 

venture  to  insert  it  here,  and  I  am  persuaded  it  will  be  read 
with  interest,  as  the  earnest  and  respectful  appeal  of  the  man 
of  whom  I  have  said  so  much  in  this  chapter,  to  the  highest 
authority  in  the  British  realms. 

Copy  of  Translation  of  Letter  from  Moshesh  to  J.  J.  Freeman, 

"  Thaba  Bosigo, 
"  Rev.  Me.  Freeman,  "  February  14,  1850. 

"Sir,— 

"  When  you  return  to  England,  and  there  see  yoiu-  Sovereign,  be  so 
kind  as  to  tell  her  from  me  as  follows :  '  I  beg  of  you,  O  Queen,  to  re- 
ceive my  respectful  salutations.  I  have  had  the  opportunity  of  seeing 
one  of  your  subjects,  a  teacher  from  yovu-  great  town ;  it  is  Mr.  Freeman. 

"  '  I  have  poru'ed  out  my  words  in  my  anxiety,  even  all  my  words, 
giving  them  over  to  this  your  subject,  and  I  hope  he  will  keep  them 
in  his  heart,  and  will  faitlifuUy  pour  them  out  in  your  presence  ;  they 
are  all  mine  ;  yoiu-  ear  will  hear  fi-ora  him  what  I  have  revealed. 

"  '  I  say  I  am  quite  grateful  on  account  of  this  man,  it  ha^-ing 
relieved  my  mind  to  see  him.  I  was  in  want  of  some  one  who  could 
hear  my  words,  and  these  I  have  intrusted  to  hira  are  not  the  lie  of 
any  one,  but  a  truth  of  mine  indeed.  Be  pleased  to  listen  favoiirably 
Tinto  them,  and  after  having  heard  how  I  have  spoken  to  him,  do  thou, 
O  Queen,  act  as  it  shall  please  you,  as  it  will  appear  just  and 
proper  to  you  to  act  in  such  a  way  as  that  my  anxiety  may  be 
rem.oved.  I  have  ended.  Long  live  in  peace,  O  Queen,  I  remain 
your  grieved  but  faithful  ally,  Moshesh.' 

"  May  you.  Sir,  prosper  in  your  way,  and  let  God  accompany  all 
your  steps. 

"  I  am  yours, 
(Signed)  X  « MOSHESH. 

"Witnesses,  Molapo,  Son  of  Moshesh.     Abraham  Zeill,  Counsellor, 
"  H.  M.  Dyke,  V.D.M.,  Interpreter:' 

I  inclosed  the  above  in  a  letter  addressed  to  Lord  John 
Piussell,  of  which  the  following  is  a  copy.  I  insert  it  here, 
as  assisting  to  give  a  clear  view  of  the  whole  case. 

"  Blonifield  Street,  Finsbury, 

"Ust  March,  1851. 
"  To  the  Right  Honourable  Lord  John  Russell, 
First  Lord  of  the  Treasury,  &c.,  &c.,  &c. 
"  Mv  Lord, — 
"  Diu'ing  a  late  visit  which  I  paid  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and 


32.1  LF.TTER  TO  LORD  JOHN  RUSSELL. 

various  countries  adjacent  to  the  colony,  I  had  much  intercourse  -with 
Jloshesh,  chief  of  the  Basutos,  and  Captain  Adam  Kok,  one  of  the 
cliiefs  of  the  Griquas,  besides  others  whom  I  need  not  now  specify. 

•'  The  two  chiefs  whom  I  have  named,  expressed  to  me  in  the 
plainest  terms,  their  extreme  dissatisfaction  with  arrangements  made 
by  His  Excellency  Sir  Harry  Smith,  '  Her  Majesty's  High  Commis- 
sioner for  the  adjustment  of  the  territories  of  these  several  border 
tribes,'  by  which  arrangements  they  were  respectively  deprived  of 
lar<»e  portions  of  their  countries,  and,  as  they  consider,  in  an  arbitrary 
and  unjust  manner.  Failing  in  obtaining  redress  fi-om  Sir  Harry 
Snuth,  these  chiefs  and  their  people  have  importimed  me  to  bring 
their  case,  on  my  return  to  England,  under  the  direct  notice  of  her 
Majesty's  Government, 

"  I  have  communicated  with  the  Eight  Honourable  Earl  Grey  on 
these  subjects.  I  am  not  certain  whether  his  Lordship  is  adopting 
anv  measures  in  relation  to  them ;  but  I  beg  now  to  put  into  youi 
Lordship's  hands,  as  the  head  of  her  Majesty's  Government,  the  docu- 
ment wliich  I  received  from  Moshesh,  accompanied  by  a  translation, 
containing  the  message  of  Moshesh  to  her  Most  Gracious  Majesty  the 
Queen,  authenticating  me  as  the  bearer  of  his  message,  and  his 
request  to  me  to  convey  the  said  message — the  substance  of  which  is, 
that  he  has  been  deprived,  contrary  to  existing  treaties,  of  a  large 
portion  of  his  territory,  as  seen  in  the  accompanying  outUne  of  a  map. 
"I  beg  permission  to  remai-k,  that  I  think  the  case  of  Moshesh  is  a 
hard  case,  and  for  the  sake  of  justice  and  the  peace  of  the  colony, 
merits  an  impartial  investigation  on  the  spot. 

"  I  beg  permission  further  to  recommend  the  same  measure  of 
inqiiiry  respecting  the  complaints  of  the  Griquas  under  Captain  Adam 
Kok.  " 

"  I  trust  your  Lordship  vnR  forgive  me  in  adding  my  most  de- 
liberate conviction,  that  although  with  the  forces  sent  from  this 
countiy  to  strengthen  the  hand  of  the  Governor,  Sir  H.  Smith  may 
succeed  in  putting  down  the  present  outbreak  of  the  Kaffirs,  nothing 
will  restore  tranquillity  and  secure  permanent  peace  to  the  colony — 
nothing  will  re-create  confidence  in  the  minds  of  the  native  tribes  to- 
ward the  British  Government,  but  an  immediate  Commission  of 
Inquiry,  that  will  on  the  spot  patiently  hear  the  complaints,  and 
assure  them  of  her  Majesty's  wish  to  afford  even-handed  justice  to 
all  her  subjects,  and  the  favom'ablo  treatment  of  all  her  allies. 

"  I  have  the  honour  to  be  &c.,  &c. 
"J.  J.  F." 


BASUTO  BOUNDARIES.  325 

In  reply  to  that  portion  of  my  letter  to  Earl  Grey,  which 
charges  Sir  H.  Smith  with  depriving  Moshesh  of  a  part  of 
his  country,  and  which  letter  Lord  Grey  had  sent  to  Sir 
H.  Smith,  he  gz'avely  asserts,  that  he  has  not  deprived  Mo- 
shesh of  any  part  of  his  country,  but  merely  defined  the 
boundary  lines. 

I  again  as  distinctly,  deliberately,  and  solemnly  affirm, 
that  Sir  H.  Smith  has  deprived  Moshesh  of  a  part  of  his 
country,  a  large  and  valuable  portion  of  it.  The  boundary 
line,  as  made  by  Sir  G.  Napier  and  Sir  P.  Maitland,  has 
been  greatly  altered  to  the  prejudice  of  Moshesh,  against 
his  consent,  excepting  as  obtained  by  intimidation,  and 
without  any  compensation.  I  repeat,  with  extreme  pain 
and  reluctance,  that  Sir  H.  Smith's  denial  of  my  charge  is 
not  founded  in  truth,  and  cannot  bear  examination.  I 
appeal  from  that  denial  to  Lord  Grey  himself,  and  to  Sir 
H.  Smith's  own  more  deliberate  judgment. 

To  all  this,  I  venture  to  add,  by  way  of  further  elucida- 
tion, that  the  boundary  lines  of  the  Basuto  country,  as  laid 
down  by  his  Excellency  Sir  George  Napier,  in  1843,  and 
acted  on  by  his  immediate  successor.  Sir  Peregrine  Mait- 
land, may  be  stated  thus,  as  an  approximation  : — its  most 
southern  point  on  the  western  side  is  28^°  south  latitude; 
it  extends  to  31°  in  the  north,  and  from  about  20°  40'  east 
longitude,  to  nearly  29°.  The  country  included  within 
these  figures  is,  however,  of  an  extremely  irregular  shape. 
It  may  possibly  contain  from  10,000  to  11,000  square 
miles.  At  least  one-fourth  of  this  must  be  considered  as 
comparatively  useless,  on  account  of  its  lofty,  precijjitous, 
and  almost  inaccessible  mountains.  There  might  thus 
remain  about  8000  square  miles  of  territory,  fit  for  grazing, 
containing  large  patches  of  arable  land.  But  from  this 
8000  must  be  deducted  1500  at  least,  for  tracts  of  disputed 
country,  occupied  by  Mantatees,  Barolongs,  and  others,  not 
recognizing  allegiance  to  Moshesh.  And  from  tlie  balance 
of  country  thus  left,  must  now  be  deducted  about  one  half, 
as  claimed  by  Sir  H.  Smith,  Chief  Commissioner  to  her 


^20  MORIJA  STATION. 

Majesty's  Govemmeiit  for  settling  the  affairs  of  the  horcler 
tribes  of  South  Africa,  in  their  relation  with  the  colony ; 
and  against  which  seizure  of  his  territory,  the  chieftain 
Moshesh,  and  his  people,  bitterly,  indignantly,  and  justly 
complain. 

Leaving  Thaba  Bossio,  we  proceeded  to  Morija,  to  j^ay 
a  visit  to  Mr.  Arbousset  and  his  Mission  station.  The 
village  consists  of  numerous  huts,  of  a  bee-hive  shape. 
There  is  usually  a  smaller  hut  attached  to  them,  like  an 
oven,  and  which  is  used  as  a  dormitory.  The  entrance  to 
the  hut  is  extremely  low  and  inconvenient,  being  seldom 
more  than  two  feet  high.  Several  of  the  people  have 
lately  built  square  houses,  in  imitation  of  the  European 
residences,  and  they  now  like  them  much  better  than  the 
old  ones.  But  scai'cely  any  wood  is  found  in  the  countiy ; 
and  therefore,  the  difficulty  of  procuring  suitable  roofs  is 
an  adequate  reason  for  there  being  but  few  of  this  im- 
proved structure. 

It  seems  that  many  of  the  people  have  lately  removed  to 
a  distance.  This  in  part  arises  from  the  migratoiy  habit 
of  all  these  natives,  who  get  tired  of  living  always  in  the 
same  locality.  It  arises  too,  in  part,  from  the  occupation 
of  their  lands  by  the  Boers,  and  the  late  decisions  and 
regulations  of  the  British  Government  in  reference  to 
their  territory. 

I  had  an  opportunity  of  a  long  and  somewhat  interesting 
conversation  with  the  chief,  Letsie,  in  the  presence  of  his 
uncle  Paulus  Matebe,  and  many  of  his  people.  He  came 
to  visit  me  at  Mr.  Arbousset's,  and  Mr.  Moffat  and  Mr. 
Christie  were  also  present.  Letsie  the  elder,  a  son  of 
Moshesh  by  his  first  or  principal  wife,  is  chief  of  Morija, 
and  a  man  of  considerable  importance.  He  is  greatly  dis- 
satisfied with  the  present  state  of  affairs,  and  considers 
the  Basuto  people  as  injured,  oppressed,  and  despoiled  by 
the  measures  of  Sir  Harry  Smith,  the  Governor,  in  refer- 
ence to  the  forcible  occupation  of  their  lands.  He  seems 
hopeless  as  to  any  application  to  the  British  Government ; 


THE  SCRIPTURES  REQUIRED.  327 

he  has  no  confidence  in  its  honour  or  justice.  He  regards 
himself  as  injured  hy  a  stronger  party,  against  whom  re- 
dress is  beyond  his  reach. 

EUa  Massika  resides  here  at  Morija.  He  was  sent  some 
time  back,  as  a  Cliristian  teaclier,  to  visit  the  tribe  of  the 
Basseri;  he  reached  MagaUsberg,  and  was  from  thence 
sent  back  by  the  Dutch  farmers,  who  refused  him  permis- 
sion to  proceed  farther. 

It  struck  me  that  a  second  Missionary  might  advan- 
tageously be  placed  with  Mr.  Arbousset,  whose  station 
is  very  large,  so  that  a  larger  portion  of  his  time  might 
be  devoted  to  translation  and  correcting  the  pi'ess.  The 
press  itself  might,  perhaps,  be  placed  at  Morija  :  it  is 
now  at  Beersheba  ;  but  Mr.  Eoland's  hands  are  too  full 
to  permit  him  to  attend  to  it.  I  think  decidedly,  that 
much  more  must  be  done  for  this  Mission  by  the  press 
than  heretofore.  The  whole  Scrii[)tures  must  be  given 
to  the  people.  The  Scriptures  may  be  extensively  cir- 
culated among  them.  Other  books  should  be  prepared 
and  printed  as  rapidly  as  possible.  The  minds  of  the 
people  must  be  interested  and  engaged,  or  the  work,  so 
auspiciously  commenced,  will  prove  a  failure.  In  no 
case,  I  think,  may  the  living  voice  of  the  preacher  con- 
tinue to  be  a  substitute  for  the  written  volume  of  the 
lively  oracles  of  God.  The  people  must  have  the  sacred 
volume,  and  take  it  home  and  examine  it,  as  the  Be.i-eans 
did.  God  must  be  honoured  by  the  circulation  of  his 
Word,  and  he  will  put  honour  upon  it,  as  the  means  of 
men's  conversion,  and  building  up  believers  upon  the 
most  holy  faith. 

We  left  Morija  and  returned  to  Thaba  Bossio.  On  our 
way,  Mr.  Dyke  pointed  out  to  me  the  village  where  the 
native  Libey  had  resided,  of  whose  conversion,  in  extreme 
old  age,  a  highly  interesting  account  was  forwarded  to 
Paris  by  Mr.  Casalis,  and  part  of  which  appeared  in  our 
"Juvenile  Missionary  Magazine."  The  conversion  of  that 
old  man  is  one  of  the  most  striking  instances  in  modern 


338  SOURCES  OF  THE  ORANGE  AXD  CALEDON. 

times,  of  the  power  of  the  Gospel.  He  was  one  of  the 
most  inveterate  enemies  of  Divine  truth,  but  was  by  its 
influence  softened  and  subdued.  The  bold,  fierce,  har- 
dened barbarian,  was  made  to  sit  as  a  little  child  at  the 
feet  of  the  Saviour.  The  people  who  knew  the  man,  and 
saw  the  change  produced  in  him,  and  heard  his  confes- 
sion, said,  that  "  it  was  a  miracle."  He  died  about  three 
years  ago,  upwards  of  ninety  years  of  age. 

On  our  way  to  Morija  we  crossed  many  "  sluits  "  and 
"  spruits,"  that  is,  "  water- courses"  formed  by  mountain 
torrents  and  small  streams,  or  beds  of  streams,  formed 
by  springs  from  the  mountains.  All  these  run  to  the 
Caledon  Eiver,  which  has  its  source  in  the  "  INIonte  aux 
Sources,"  so  named  by  Messrs.  Arbousset  and  Daumas, 
and  which  they  describe  as  placed  in  the  northern  ex- 
tremity of  the  Blue  Mountain  chain,  about  10,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  about  twelve  leagues  in  circum- 
ference, with  a  large  table  or  plateau  on  the  summit, 
covered  with  fine  vegetation,  and  which  constitutes  one  of 
the  highest  summits  of  the  range.  The  Caledon,  named 
so  after  Lord  Caledon,  flows  on  the  eastern  side  of  this 
mountain.  The  native  name  is  Mogakari,  that  is, 
"through  the  middle,"  because  it  rolls  between  the  coun- 
try of  the  Basutos  and  Mantatees.  The  Orange  Eiver 
flows  from  the  same  mountain  on  the  opposite  side. 

There  was  one  part  of  the  road  that  struck  me  as 
remarkable.  It  was  about  two  hours'  ride  from  Thaba 
Bossio.  On  a  descent,  in  an  open  plain,  and  before 
reaching  a  large  torrent-bed,  the  ground  Avas  strewed  with 
agate  pebbles  for  many  yards  in  width,  and,  as  far  as  we 
could  see,  they  reached  to  a  considerable  depth  in  the 
soil.  I  saw  none  of  great  value,  though  possibly,  could 
we  have  remained  some  time,  and  examined  the  spot 
moi'e  closely,  we  might  have  found  many  worth  collect- 
ing, and  especially  by  digging  a  little  way  in  the  ground. 
Wliere  they  could  all  come  from  I  could  not  ascertain  ; 
many  bushels,   if  not  cart-loads,   might   be    gathered.     I 


VILLAGES    VISITED.  329 

find  them,  more  or  less,  in  all  this  part  of  the  country — 
in  the  river  beds,  and  on  the  mountain  sides,  where  there 
is  basalt,  and  on  the  tops  of  the  mountains.  They  are 
found  in  the  basalt,  which  occurs  frequently  north  of  the 
Orange  River,  as  well  as  south  of  it.  But  very  few  com- 
plete or  perfect  specimens  are  met  with.  The  basalt  dis- 
integrates by  exposure  to  the  air  and  weather ;  the  agates 
formed  in  the  interstices  or  air-holes  of  the  basalt,  then 
fall  out  and  get  broken  among  the  blocks  and  fragments. 

I  met  also  at  Morija,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Maeder,  of  the  same 
Mission.  Mr.  Maeder  is  an  architect,  and  evidently  a  man 
of  taste  and  genius.  He  superintends  the  building  of  the 
new  chapel,  which  is  in  progress.  It  will  be  an  excellent 
building,  quite  an  ornament  to  the  place,  and  worthy  of 
a  state  of  society  still  in  advance  of  the  present.  Its 
measurement  is  eighty  feet  by  forty.  Its  cost  may  be  about 
£600  ;  the  whole  of  which  has  been  raised  by  Mr.  Arbous- 
set's  exertions,  chiefly  among  friends  in  the  colony,  and 
wholly  without  touching  the  Society's  funds. 

It  is  an  important  feature  in  this  Mission  station  at 
Morija,  that  it  possesses  so  much  facility  for  village  teach- 
ing. There  are  not  fewer  tlien  278  villages  regularly 
visited  by  various  members  of  the  church.  These  visitors 
consist  of  twenty-two  bands,  and  they  have  allotted  to 
them  so  many  villages  as  they  can  respectively  undertake 
to  visit.  Usually  the  bands  consist  of  about  six  members 
of  the  church.  In  fifty-three  of  the  villages  there  are 
members  of  the  church  residing,  some  more,  some  less ; 
most  of  the  villagers,  therefore,  it  is  evident,  are  still  hea- 
then, though  some  among  them  occasionally  attend  the 
preaching.  The  population  in  the  district  thus  visited 
may  amount  to  about  12,000,  and  as  these  are  brought 
within  the  sound  of  Divine  truth,  tlu'ough  the  medium 
of  the  station,  it  is  obvious  that  a  very  large  amount  of 
moral  influence  is  exercised  in  the  country  by  this  i)arti- 
cular  Mission.  A  regular  account  is  kept  of  the  villages, 
the  members,  and  the  bands  of  visitors.     There  are  320 


830  PARTING  FROM  MESSRS.  MOFFAT  AND  CHRISTIE. 

members  in  church-fellowship,  and  nearly  50  candidates. 
The  station  being  farther  from  the  seat  of  war,  has  not 
suffered  so  much  deterioration  as  other  stations. 

All  the  Mission  premises  here  were  built  by  Mr.  Maeder, 
and  they  are  very  neatly  and  appropriately  constructed. 
His  own  house,  and  study  particularly,  are  models  of  neat- 
ness, in  a  land  so  uncivilized.  The  present  chapel  is  in 
the  form  of  a  T-  It  has  an  earthen  pulpit,  and  there  are 
a  few  earthen  seats  for  the  hearers ;  most  of  the  people 
bring  their  seats  with  them,  a  very  incommodious  plan. 
They  are  of  all  sizes  and  shapes  ;  not  a  few  are  the  stumps 
of  trees,  or  roots,  which  have  so  grown  and  are  so  gnarled, 
that  a  person  can  just  manage  to  sit  on  them  without 
being  tilted  over  or  raised  too  high  from  the  ground. 
Timber  is  obtained  for  the  new  chapel,  and  I  presume 
there  will  be  seats  provided  of  a  better  kind  ;  for  though 
it  is  no  annoyance  or  humiliation  to  a  native  to  sit  on  the 
ground,  it  is  opposed  to  "civilization"  and  improvement; 
it  spoils  good  clothes,  and  makes  the  wearer  less  willing 
to  use,  or  even  to  obtain  them.  The  first  step  here  in 
civilization  seems  to  be,  putting  on  European  clothing  ;  and 
the  second  step  is,  to  sit  on  some  kind  of  seat  instead  of 
the  earth. 

From  Thaba  Bossio  we  proceeded  back  to  Platberg. 
There  I  parted  with  my  companions,  INIr.  IMoffat  and  his 
daughter,  and  Mr.  Christie,  the  former  returning  homeward 
by  way  of  Bloem  Fontein,  and  the  latter  to  Philippolis. 
Our  parting  from  each  other  was  a  moment  in  which  I 
believe  none  of  our  hearts  permitted  to  say  more  than 
"adieu,"  not  knowing  the  things  that  might  befall  us,  and 
conscious  that,  amidst  the  distant  and  changing  scenes  of 
life  before  us  respectively,  we  might  not  meet  again, — till 
the  day  when  all  the  generations  of  the  human  family  shall 
stand  before  the  great  tribunal. 

Little  did  we  know  at  that  moment  what  mournful 
intelligence  awaited  Mr.  Christie,  and  which,  ere  the 
evening  closed  in,  he  would   receive.     His  daughter,  an 


DEATH  OF  MISS  CHRISTIE.  331 

amiable  and  excellent  young  person,  whom  he  left  in 
health  at  Cape  Town  with  her  mother,  under  the  roof  of 
Dr.  Philip,  (Mrs.  Christie's  father,)  had  imprudently  sat  up 
in  bed  to  read  by  candle-light — fell  asleep — the  clothes 
took  fire — she  was  fearfully  burnt.  Her  sufferings  were 
gx'eat,  though  not  much  prolonged  ;  her  gentle  spirit 
was  released,  and  admitted  to  realms  beyond  the  reach  of 
accident  and  death. 

Mr.  Moffat  had  been  my  companion  now  for  nearly  ten 
weeks  ;  and  I  cannot  bring  myself  to  close  this  notice  of  our 
journeyings  together,  without  adding  a  few  observations. 
I  found  him,  wherever  we  went,  possessing  a  large  amount 
of  influence  over  the  native  mind.  The  chiefs  and  head 
men  almost  everywhere  know  him  either  personally  or  by 
report ;  and  either  they,  or  their  fathers,  or  uncles,  had  had 
much  to  do  with  him.  His  ready  knowledge  of  the  lan- 
guage, and  extremely  facile  address,  are  great  advantages. 
He  speaks  Sichuana  more  readily  than  even  English,  and 
his  Dutch  was  highly  approved.  I  found  him  always  ready 
for  every  good  word  and  work, — ready  to  take  his  part  in 
every  service,  however  brief  the  notice.  His  mind  appeared 
to  me  much  imbued  with  a  sense  of  the  brevity  and  fieetness 
of  human  life,  and  of  the  vast  importance  of  seeking  to  fill 
up  diligently  its  remaining  portion  for  the  noblest  pur- 
poses. His  heart  is  set  on  the  translation  of  the  Scriptures 
into  Sichuana.  He  sees  the  importance  of  its  being  got 
into  early  and  extensive  circulation.  His  mind  is  con- 
stantly occupied  with  collecting  and  comparing  words  and 
phrases  for  the  translation,  and  this  becomes  with  him  a 
topic  of  frequent  and  earnest  conversation  whenever  the 
opportunity  occurs  of  adding  anything  to  his  philological 
stores.  In  years,  he  is  not  aged  ;  in  health,  though  he  is 
yet  vigorous,  there  may  be  detected  some  few  signs  of  an 
approaching  and  insidious  diminution  of  wonted  strength. 

From  Platberg  I  reached  MokuatUng,  Mr.  Daumas's 
station,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Dyke.  The  approach  to 
the  Mission-house  is  through  an  avenue  of  syjinga  trees, 


330  MOKUATLING. 

which  have  a  very  agreeable  effect.  Here  are  some  ex- 
cellent gardens,  both  large  and  productive  ;  and,  happily 
for  me,  I  arrived  when  many  of  the  fruits  were  ripe, — 
apples,  grapes,  peaches,  and  a  few  figs.  The  garden  is 
surrounded  by  a  good  wall,  and  the  vineyard  neatly 
inclosed  with  reeds.  The  neighbouring  village  has  been 
within  a  few  months  barbarously  destroyed  by  a  Coranna 
party,  under  Gert  Taybosch.  The  houses  have  not  a 
vestige  remaining,  but  the  sites  are  there,  and  the  stone 
cattle-kraals  are  there.  Gert  Taybosch  had  for  some  time 
past,  and  till  recently,  lived  at  Umpakani,  Mr.  Schreiner's 
station.  He  appears  to  have  acted  in  concert  with  Sikon- 
yella  in  this  attack  on  Moletsani's  village.  Taybosch 
shortly  after  left  the  country  and  went  fai'ther  into  the 
interior.  For  this  measure,  one  reason  assigned  is,  the 
contiguity  of  British  authority.  Bloem  Fontein  was 
brought  too  near  the  spot  he  was  occupying,  and  found 
to  be  too  obsen'ant  of  his  marauding  schemes. 

All  this  matter  requires  to  be  investigated.  For  the 
British  Government  to  interfere  with  the  native  chiefs, 
and  demand  the  peaceable  arrangement  of  their  disputes, 
without  bloodshed,  may  be  well — a  plan  full  of  benevo- 
lence and  wholesome  policy,  if  faithfully  carried  out;  but 
to  interfere  partially,  to  encom'age  tacitly  one  party  to 
attack  another,  to  demand  another  to  sit  still  while 
attacked,  to  allow  hostile  parties  to  pass  the  British 
territory  in  order  to  make  an  attack,  and  then  to  punish 
a  native  chief  for  doing  the  same  thing — all  this  can 
cause  only  jealousies,  retaliations,  and  wrongs. 

It  may  deserve  notice,  that  Taybosch's  party  on  attack- 
ing the  \'illage  respected  the  chapel  and  Mission  property. 
They  kept  at  a  distance  from  these ;  and  hence,  those  of 
the  natives  who  had  taken  shelter  under  the  wing  of  the 
Missionary  were  safe.  The  chief  himself  was  for  some 
time  concealed  in  the  house  of  Mr.  Daumas. 

The  chapel  here  is  suitable  and  substantial.  The  seats 
with  which  it  is  filled  give  it  a  very  neat  and  even  superior 


cannibals'  cave.  333 

appearance.  There  is  no  room  left  for  any  to  "  squat " 
on  the  ground.  The  Missionaries  all  appear  very  familiar 
with  the  native  language,  which  is  a  branch  of  the  Sichu- 
ana.  The  congregation  was  tolerably  good  at  the  time 
of  my  visit.  The  chapel  can  accommodate  about  400 
hearers.  The  church -members  amount  to  about  100. 
There  Avere  no  schools  being  held  at  that  time :  the 
children  were  all  engaged  in  the  fields,  watching  the  corn. 
There  are  many  and  extensive  plantations  of  wheat.  The 
cattle  graze  at  a  distance,  and  usually  on  high  ground, 
so  that  they  do  not  intrude  on  the  cultivated  corn-lands, 
though  none  of  these  are  inclosed.  Of  wild  beasts  there 
are  none ;  and  even  game  is  now  exceedingly  scarce  :  I 
saw  none  in  the  Basuto  countiy. 

Having  understood  that  cannibalism  formerly  prevailed 
extensively  in  this  part  of  the  country,  and  that  some 
cannibal  cases  existed  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood 
of  the  station,  I  inquired  of  Mr.  Daumas  about  it,  and 
he  accordingly  took  me  to  a  large  cave  that  had  been  a 
few  years  ago  one  of  these  "  dai'k  places  of  the  earth," — 
a  habitation  of  cruelty.  We  rode  part  of  the  way  and 
walked  the  rest,  reaching  it  with  no  small  difficulty.  It 
is  near  the  summit  of  the  kloof  or  ravine  adjoining  tlie 
IMission  station.  It  cannot  properly  be  called  a  cave ;  it 
is  a  sheltered  spot,  immediately  under  a  large  ledge  of 
projecting  rock,  not  affording  room  for  any  one  to  stand 
upright,  but  where  many  might  find  shelter  and  conceal- 
ment, in  a  sitting  posture  or  lying  down.  Immense 
quantities  of  fragments  of  bones  lie  scattered  about,  and 
fragments  of  the  earthen  pots  used  in  cooking  the  horrid 
food.  A  few  fragments  of  the  bones,  skulls,  ribs,  teeth, 
&c.,  I  brouglit  away  with  me,  as  humiliating  mementos 
of  this  awful  spot,  where  many  have  been  the  victims  of 
this  most  dreadfully  unnatural  propensity. 

It  appears,  that  in  watching  for  their  victims,  these 
cannibals  usually  seated  themselves  on  the  summit  of 
the   hill,    and   having   spied    some   unfortunate   traveller 


334  CANiN'IBALISM. 

coming  across  the  plain,  means  were  concerted  to  catch 
the  unsuspecting  prey.  If  there  were  resistance,  they 
were  killed  on  the  spot  and  carried  home  piecemeal ;  if 
not,  they  were  bound  and  driven  towards  the  cave,  and 
then  destroyed  as  appetite  demanded.  The  principal 
cave  appears  to  have  been  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Cana. 
Until  recently,  Cana  was  a  Mission  station,  but  has  been 
given  up,  in  consequence  of  the  haughty  and  unfriendly 
treatment  the  Missionary  received,  rendering  his  further 
residence  there  at  present  undesirable  in  the  opinion  of 
the  brethren.  The  quantities  of  human  bones  found  there 
are  said  to  have  been  awful.  All  these  revolting  practices 
have  long  since  been  abolished.  Moshesh  had  steadily 
and  benevolently  opposed  them,  even  prior  to  the  Mis- 
sionaries coming  into  his  country.  He  had  provided  the 
villages  where  cannibalism  prevailed  with  corn  to  sow 
their  lands,  and  milch  cows  to  supply  them  with  milk, 
till  their  fields  yielded  a  harvest.  And  by  his  generous 
and  vigorous  measures  the  enormity  has  been  eradicated. 

During  my  visit  to  Philippolis  in  the  Griqua  countr}% 
I  embraced  an  opportunity  of  going  to  see  the  three 
French  Missionary  stations  in  that  vicinity,  viz.  Bethulie, 
Carmel,  and  Beersheba.  I  have  purposely  reserved  my 
notice  of  them  to  this  chapter,  in  order  to  introduce 
together  the  whole  of  the  Missions  of  the  Paris  Society. 

Bethulie  is  about  fifty  miles  from  Philii^polis.  Wagons 
and  horses  were  kindly  lent  me  for  the  occasion  by  Henri 
Vorgaam,  one  of  the  people  who  accompanied  Mr.  J. 
Wright  and  myself.  We  rested  at  the  farm  of  Piet 
Draai  at  Schraal  Fontein,  an  industrious,  intelligent,  and 
prosperous  man,  who  lent  us  another  team  of  eight  horses 
and  went  foi-ward  himself  with  us.  On  reaching  the 
station,  Mr.  Pelessier  and  his  family  were  unfortunately 
absent  from  home,  but  we  met  them  next  morning. 

The  locality  is   well  supplied  with  water,  and   a  large 
portion  of  the  ground  is  under  cultivation.     Lepui,*  the 
chief,  lives  on  the  spot,  is  recognised  by  Sir  H.  Smith  as 
*  Sechuana  ;  and  sigiiiiies  a  dove. 


CARMEL.  335 

independent,    and    appears   to   be    a   quiet   and   sensible 
kind  of  man.     His  district  formed  originally  part  of  the 
Griqua  territory,  under  Adam  Kok.     It  seems  to  have  been 
part  of  the  policy  of  our  country  to  recognise  as   many 
petty  chiefs  as  could  decently  be  done,  and  so  to  under- 
mine the  authority  and  influence  of  the  principal  chiefs. 
Here  is  a  good  chapel  and  school-house,  and  the  attend- 
ance on  public  worship  is,  we  were  informed,  encouraging. 
"  Carmel "  is  the  next  station  we  visited.     The  locality 
is   now    comprehended  within   the    British   territory.     It 
lies  within  that  section  of  the  Basuto  country  which  has 
been    cut   off  from    Moshesh.      Mr.    Lemue    is   intrusted 
with  the  care  of  this  station,  aided  by  Mr.  Lauga  as  secu- 
lar  Missionary.     It   was    intended  to   form   here   an    in- 
stitution for  the  training  of  native  teachers   and   school- 
masters.    An  excellent  and  suitable  building  for  that  pur- 
pose had  been  commenced  a  short  time  before  the  break- 
ing out  of  the  French  Eevolution  of  1848.     As  that  event 
interrupted  the  resources  of  the  Paris  Missionary  Society, 
the  progress  of  the  building  was  suspended.     The  Com- 
mittee in  Paris  have,  however,  authorised  the  resumj)tion 
of  the  works.     I  lamented  to  see  such  a  building  unfi- 
nished, when  already  so  far  advanced,  and  for  so  impoilant 
an  object.     Mr.  Lemue  left  a  most  favourable  impression 
on  my  mind  as  to  his  adaptation  for  the  work  intrusted 
to  him.     The  native  population  is   small,  and  will  most 
likely  remain  so,  as  the  land  is  now  included  within  the 
British  Sovereignty.     Moshesh  the  chief  seems  to  wisli, 
naturally  enough,  that  his  own  subjects  should  retire  within 
the  limits  that  still  remain  to  him. 

Mr.  Lemue,  who  formerly  resided  at  Motito,  and  is 
familiar  with  the  Kalliharri  country,  assured  me  that  the 
remarkable  accounts  sometimes  circulated  as  to  the 
people  of  that  part  of  Africa  catching  lions  hij  the  tail,  and 
of  which,  I  confess,  I  was  very  incredulous,  were  perfectly 
true.  He  well  knows  that  tlie  method  prevailed,  and  was 
certainly  not  uncommon  among  the  people. 

Lions  would  sometimes  become  extremely  dangerous. 


350  CATCHING  LIONS. 

Having  become  accustomed  to  human  flesh,  they  would 
not  willingly  eat  anything  else.  When  a  neighbourhood 
became  infested,  the  men  would  determine  on  the  mea- 
sures to  be  adopted  to  rid  themselves  of  the  nuisance  ; 
then  forming  themselves  into  a  band,  they  would  proceed 
in  search  of  their  royal  foe,  and  beard  the  lion  in  his 
lair.  Standing  close  by  one  another,  the  lion  would  make 
his  spring  on  some  one  of  the  party — every  man,  of  course, 
hoping  he  might  escape  the  attack — when  instantly  others 
would  dash  forward  and  seize  his  tail,  lifting  it  up,  close 
to  the  body,  Avith  all  their  might ;  thus  not  only  astonish- 
ing the  animal,  and  absolutely  taking  him  off  his  guard, 
but  rendering  his  efforts  powerless  for  the  moment; 
while  others  closed  in  with  their  spears  and  at  once 
stabbed  the  monster  through  and  through.  All  this  was 
done,  not  for  the  exciting  pleasure  of  a  lion-hunt,  or  as 
an  exhibition  of  prowess,  but  to  rid  the  vicinity  of  their 
villages  of  a  dreadful  enemy,  and  to  save  themselves  from 
becoming  in  turn  the  breakfast  or  supper  of  this  monarch 
of  the  desert. 

A  lion  anecdote  was  related  to  me,  that  may  be  worth 
recording.  A  native  was  rather  fearful  that  ere  long  he 
should  become  the  victim  of  a  lion  himself,  which  was 
known  to  be  in  his  neighbourhood,  unless  he  got  the  beast 
shot.  The  lion  had  already  been  to  his  house,  and 
destroyed  more  than  one  victim.  The  man  then  laid 
a  snare.  He  placed  a  kid  near  the  door  of  his  house 
to  attract  the  lion,  intending  to  shoot  him  while  he 
was  attacking  the  kid  ;  the  lion,  however,  leaped  over 
the  kid,  as  if  of  no  value,  or  not  sufficiently  dainty  to 
satisfy  his  wishes,  and  then  walked  deliberately  into  the 
house.  The  man  had,  however,  taken  higher  views ;  he 
had  climbed  up  outside,  and  was  waiting  with  his  loaded 
gun  on  the  roof,  and  on  the  lion's  walking  out  of  the 
house,  he  aimed  his  gun  well  and  shot  him  dead  on  the 
spot ;  thankful,  no  doubt,  to  have  saved  himself  and 
his  kid. 


STATION    AT    BEERSHEBA.  337 

We  proceeded  the  next  morning,  after  an  early  break- 
fast, to  Beersheba,  the  station  of  Mr.  Eolland,  and  which 
is  also  an  exceedingly  well-watered  station.  The  stream 
from  one  of  the  fountains,  close  by  the  Mission  premises, 
gives  a  noble  volume  of  water,  which  is  employed  to 
irrigate  the  gardens  and  grounds,  and  to  turn  a  small 
corn-mill.  The  spring  is  thermal.  The  village  itself,  or 
at  least  a  considerable  portion  of  it,  is  a  very  conspicuous 
object,  consisting  of  a  large  number  of  native  huts  and 
kraals,  on  the  sides  of  the  kopjes  or  hills  that  abound 
throughout  this  district.  Many  hundreds  of  the  natives 
have  come  under  the  instruction  and  influence  of  the 
Missionary,  but  they  do  not  change  their  mode  of  living, 
nor  do  they  adopt  the  European  structure  of  houses. 
They  seem  still  to  prefer  and  cling  to  their  national 
beehive  huts,  or  hartebeest  huts.  The  latter  resembles  in 
structure  a  cottage  roof,  with  gable  ends,  all  on  the  ground. 
Most  of  the  people  that  I  saw  used  the  kaross  or  skin 
dress,  with  some  kind  of  under  garment.  Most  of  them, 
I  understand,  are  in  possession  of  European  clothing, 
but  they  reserve  these  for  Sundays.  They  attend  public 
worship,  not  only  decently,  but  respectably  dressed.  Their 
habits  are  industrious,  and  they  possess  some  property 
in  cattle.     They  are  saving  and  frugal. 

We  remained  under  the  roof  of  our  friends  for  the 
night ;  and  were  glad  to  find  a  large  attendance  of  people 
next  morning  at  the  native  service,  which  they  conduct 
wholly  by  themselves.  Their  singing  had  a  very  pleasing 
effect.  Mr.  Eolland,  who  excels  scientifically  in  this 
department,  had  trained  them  well.  He  is  regarded 
virtually  as  a  kind  of  chief,  and  the  place  is,  in  the  eye 
of  Moshesh,  considered  as  almost  belonging  to  him  ;  and 
tliat,  by  a  kind  of  prescriptive  right,  ]\Ir.  Eolland  having 
been  the  first  to  settle  there.  The  first  peaceable  set- 
tlers at  fountains  have  been  generally  thought  to  have 
a  paramount  claim  over  them.  There  are  upwards  of 
450  members  of  the  church  here,  under  the  pastoral  care 

z 


338  ABSENCE    OF   CHILDREN. 

of  Mr.  Rolland.  Very  many  can  read  the  New  Testament 
•well.  He  has  many  cases  of  deep  interest  among  the 
members  of  his  flock,  and  especially  of  those  who  some 
years  ago  were  themselves  cannibals,  or  identified  by 
residence  with  such  as  Avere.  About  2000  people  are 
connected  with  this  station.  Mr.  Rolland  has  com- 
menced a  substantial  brick  dwelling-house.  It  is  in  an 
unfinished  state,  but  is  well  worth  an  outlay  to  complete 
it.  A  new  church  (or  chapel)  is  being  built,  of  a  verj- 
substantial  character,  under  the  superintendence  of  a 
European.  It  is  constructed  of  stone  found  in  the  im- 
mediate neighbourhood.  The  peoi^le  themselves  render 
important  assistance  in  conveying  the  stones,  &c.  .Wood 
is  expensive ;  it  has  all  to  be  brought  from  a  great  dis- 
tance. The  Mission  premises  are  walled  in  ;  an  excellent 
garden  is  opposite  the  dwelling-house  ;  in  front  of  the 
latter  stands  a  fine  row  of  almond-trees. 

Many  of  the  sandstones  here,  of  which  formation  this 
whole  country  seems  to  consist,  contain  nodules  of  a 
closer  texture,  but  without  any  i-emarkable  nuclei.  A  hill 
where  we  outspanned,  on  the  road,  appeared  to  me  to 
consist  almost  wholly  of  these  nodules  and  their  matrices. 

Mr.  Eolland,  on  conversing  with  me  about  his  station, 
remarked,  that  on  his  first  coming  to  reside  here,  he  was 
struck  with  the  almost  total  absence  of  children.  The  adults 
were  numerous,  but  there  were  scarcely  any  young  per- 
sons. On  inquiry,  it  appeared  that  most  of  the  children 
had  been  destroyed,  thrown  away,  or  devoured,  during 
the  wars — wars  sustained  up  to  within  a  very  recent  date. 
In  trying  to  make  their  escape  from  a  pursuing  and 
ferocious  enemy,  none  but  women  of  a  veiy  strong  and 
healthy  condition  could  save  their  infants,  whom  they 
were  obliged  to  carry  with  them  in  flight ;  and  often,  when 
it  Avas  found  these  infants  impeded  the  mother's  progress, 
and  so  hindered  the  escape  of  the  parents,  the  father 
would  call  out,  "  ThroAV  away  that  thing,"  meaning  that 
infant.      The   command   was    obeyed,   and   so   tlie    child 


"  GOSPEL    CHILDREN."  339 

perished.  The  chikh-en  that  are  now  on  the  station, 
and  who  attend  school,  are  called  by  the  people  them- 
selves, "  gospel  children  :"  a  veiy  emijhatic  and  appro- 
priate name,  as  describing  how  entirely  they  owe  their 
veiy  preservation  and  all  the  advantages  which  they  now 
enjoy,  to  the  influence  of  the  gospel. 

I  met  at  Mr.  Eolland's,  Mr.  Keek,  also  a  French  Mis- 
sionary, who  was  formerly  at  a  smaller  station  in  the 
immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  cannibals.  One  cave, 
at  a  short  distance  from  his  residence,  contains  still  the 
remains  of  about  sixty  huts  ;  their  circular  foundations 
are  still  there.  There  is  a  large  hollow  at  the  back  of 
tlie  cave,  where  human  bones  are  very  numerous,  and 
where  it  is  concluded  that  the  remains  of  their  victims 
were  usually  thrown. 


CHAPTEE    XV. 
NATAL. 

JOURNEY  TO   UMPAKANI,   IMPARANI SIKONYELLA LIEBENBERG's    TLEl 

eland's     river HARRISMITH BRICK-MAKER LION     SKIN 

ROOM  FOR  FARMERS HORSE-SICKNESS DIFFICULT  GROUND MAG- 
NIFICENT VIEW APPEARANCE  OF  THE  COUNTRY ZOOLU  KAFFIRS — 

CASCADE PIETER  MAURITZBURG NATIVE  POPULATION FARMS 

EMIGRANTS INDALENI MR.   ALISON CIVILIZATION UYSDOORN 

DR.  ADAMS CHARACTER  OF  THE  COUNTRY ^d'uRBAN PORT  NATAL 

THE  BAR  AND  BLUFF MR.  HOLDER PANDER NATIVE  FOREIGN- 
ERS  AMERICAN    MISSIONS NEW    GERMANY COTTON SUGAR 

LEAVE  NATAL  FOR  CAPE  TOWN. 

LEAA^xG  the  country  of  ]\Ioshesli  and  Molitsani,  I  pro- 
ceeded towards  the  embryo  town  of  "  Harrismith,"  on  my 
way  across  the  Drakenberg  to  Natal. 

I  spent  an  evening,  on  my  way,  with  Mr.  Sehreiner  and 
his  family,  at  Umpakani.  He  was  formerl}-  a  INIissionary 
in  connexion  with  om^  Society,  but  is  now  in  connexion 
with  the  Wesleyan  Society.  The  chief  here,  till  lately, 
was  Gert  Taybosch.  I  found  he  had  left  the  locality,  and, 
it  was  said,  had  made  the  place  over  to  the  Wesleyan 
Society.  I  much  question  if  it  be  desirable  for  any 
Society  to  hold  more  land  than  is  needful  for  the  Mission 
premises,  and  strictly  Missionary  objects;  so  that,  the  less 
the  Missionary  has  to  act  the  magistrate,  the  better  for  all 
parties.  Mr.  Daumas,  from  Mokuatling,  and  myself,  re- 
mained with  ]Mr.  and  IMrs.  Sehreiner  till  after  an  early 
breakfast  the  following  morning.     Thev  have  a  comfort- 


IMP.^AKI.  341 

able  i'esidence,  and  are  blessed  with  an  interesting  and 
well-regulated  family. 

We  then  rode  over  to  Imparani,  a  Wesle^'an  station, 
under  the  care  of  Mr.  Daniels,  near  Merabing,  the  resi- 
dence of  Sikonyella,  the  principal  rival  and  old  enemy  of 
Moshesh.  We  endeavoured  to  obtain  an  intei'view  with 
him,  but  were  informed  he  had  lately  purchased  a  wagon 
and  had  gone  some  little  distance  to  see  the  oxen 
yoked  in  and  tried.  After  waiting  till  we  thought  it  use- 
less to  wait  longer,  Ave  left;  rode  forward  for  about  an 
hour  and  a  half,  when  we  breakfasted  with  Mr.  Prynne,  an 
English  farmer,  then  residing  there,  after  which  Mr. 
Daumas  returned  to  Mokuatling ;  and  I,  having  taken 
my  seat  on  my  wagon,  set  out  for  "  Harrismith,"  a  town 
newly  planned,  and  so  called  in  honour  of  his  Excellency. 

I  had  now  to  traverse  a  piece  of  country  scarcely  at  all 
occupied. .  A  strange  feeling  of  solitariness  and  desolate- 
ness  pervades  the  mind  of  a  traveller  under  such  circum- 
stances, especially  of  one  long  familiar  with  crowded  towns 
aud  cities.  Yet  these  regions  have  been  occupied,  and  the 
population  has  been  considerable.  But  war,  fierce,  deadly 
war,  among  hostile  aboriginal  tribes,  has  converted  peace- 
ful villages  into  solitudes,  and  drenched  cultivated  lands 
with  tears  and  blood,  Avhich,  instead  of  fertilizing,  have 
left  them  dreary  desert  wastes. 

Ere  long,  however,  these  deserts  will  surely  be  again 
le-peopled,  and  "  the  earth  shall  yield  her  increase."  The 
main  difficulties  seem  to  exist  in  the  want  of  labour,  and 
the  restless  character  of  the  native  tribes  in  the  vicinity. 
Unless  labour  can  be  obtained,  the  best  faiTns  and  the 
most  productive  soil  must  remain  of  small  value ;  and  if 
life  and  property  be  exposed  to  danger,  from  the  inroads 
and  violence  of  prowling  marauders,  none  but  desperate 
men  can  venture  to  settle  there. 

The  only  remedy,  I  apprehend  is,  to  treat  the  natives 
irith  justice  and  benevolence ;  they  will  then  become  peace- 
ful neighbours  and  industrious  labourers,  just  as  already 


342  eland's  river. 

thousands  of  Zoolus,  Kaffirs,  Fingoes  and  Basutos  have 
become. 

We  soon  reached  Liehenberg's  flat,  and  then  the  resi- 
dence of  a  man  of  colour,  well  known  m  these  parts  by  the 
name  of  "  Oud  Izak" — old  Isaac.  He  gave  us  infoiTna- 
tion  as  to  our  course ;  and  assured  us  that  the  roads  were 
"^ood,  and,  as  no  rain  had  fallen,  the  rivers,  and  streams 
would  be  crossed  without  difficulty.  We  found  no  wood,  but 
abundance  of  grass — and  the  cattle  enjoyed  it.  There  are 
neither  wild  animals  nor  game.  It  is  a  deserted  countiy, 
where  neither  man,  nor  bird,  nor  beast,  can  be  found. 

As  we  were  not  fortunate  enough  to  find  the  best  point 
for  crossing  one  of  the  streams  of  the  Wilge,  our  wagon 
stuck  fast  on  ascending  the  opposite  bank,  and  it  occupied 
us  some  time  in  digging  away  the  earth,  so  as  to  break  the 
ascent,  and  in  unloading  the  hinder  part  of  the  wagon. 
Immediately  this  was  done,  we  saw  three  wagons  passing 
a  few  yards  higher  up,  on  our  right  hand,  and  which 
crossed  the  stream  with  perfect  ease,  and  we  wished  we 
had  done  the  same.  But  this  was  the  only  disaster  of  the 
kind  we  had  yet  encountered.  It  occasioned  just  delay 
enough  to  prevent  our  reaching  "  Harrismith"  that  even- 
ing. The  roads  were  much  worse  from  the  rains  that  had 
fallen,  and  the  gi'ound  extremely  slipper}'  for  the  oxen. 
It  made  me  often  think  of  the  value  of  made  roads,  bridges, 
and  railways — though,  when  these  will  all  be  found  in 
this  part  of  Africa,  it  is  difficult  to  predict,  judging  from 
the  present  rate  of  progi-ess. 

We  reached  the  Eland's  Eiver  at  midday,  and  found 
it  a  noble  stream,  with  its  fine,  clear,  pellucid  waters, 
— now  rolling  beautifully  along,  and  smiling  in  their 
course,  as  if  almost  conscious  of  their  dignity  and  worth, 
and  now  dashing  over  some  rocky  gi'ound  and  heaps  of 
pebbles — basalt,  agates,  and  amygdaloid — emitting  sounds 
that  were  music  to  an  African  traveller,  and  might  tempt 
him  to  linger  and  stray  on  its  banks.  Just  a  spot  to  in^'ite 
the  Muses — only,  it  is  said  to  be  infested  with  lions  1 


IRISH    BRICK-MAKER.  043 

We  continued  our  course  along  the  front  of  the  noble 
mountam  called  Tafelberg,  "  Table  Mountain,"  still  won- 
dering that  we  did  not  come  in  sight  of  "  Harrismith." 

At  length,  having  reached  the  eastern  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, I  halted,  and  determined  to  leave  the  wagon  and  go 
in  search  of  this  new-born  town — a  future  city  in  our  vast 
empire.  Taking  my  attendant,  Andries,  with  me,  we  pro 
ceeded  to  an  elevation,  where  I  felt  sure  it  must  come  into 
view.  We  were  disappointed.  Not  a  spire,  nor  chimney, 
nor  hut  could  be  seen,  and  so  we  walked  on  towards 
another  elevation.  On  our  way,  we  came  to  an  emigrant 
settler,  busily  emj^loyed  in  brick-making,  and  from  him  I 
learnt,  that  we  had  taken  the  left  hand  road  instead  of  the 
right,  after  we  had  passed  the  last  stream.  We  were 
about  a  mile  from  the  spot  marked  out  as  the  town ;  but 
no  houses  are  built,  nor  are  any  persons  residing  there, 
so  I  did  not  deem  it  worth  while  to  proceed  further  in  that 
direction.  We  returned  to  the  wagon.  It  took  us  three 
hours  to  walk  there  and  back.  The  man  we  had  met  was 
from  Armagh,  and,  feeling  sure  that  there  would,  ere  long, 
be  some  houses  wanted  to  make  it  a  town,  he  was  in'epar- 
ing  a  stock  of  bricks  beforehand,  assisted  by  half  a  dozen 
Kaffirs  at  work,  and  skipping  about  under  his  instruction. 
The  plan  of  the  town  was  laid  out  by  J\Ir.  ]\Iotfat,  jun. 
The  buildings  amount  to  considerably  above  200,  so  that 
it  was  expected  there  would  shortly  be  a  population  of 
1000.  The  streets  are  all  of  good  width.  Lots  are  ap- 
pointed for  a  church  and  prison,  court-house  and  read- 
ing-room. Upwards  of  100  of  the  lots  will  have  a  sup- 
ply of  water  on  the  pi-emises ;  the  rest  iu-e  called  dry 
erven.  Several  plots  were  already  engaged,  and  parties 
were  immediately  expected  to  open  stores.  There  seems 
an  abundant  supply  of  water.  A  fine  stream  is  carried 
down  to  the  town  by  a  water-course,  already  constructed. 
This  runs,  I  understand,  a  distance  of  three  miles.  The 
Wilge  Kiver  runs  at  no  great  distance,  by  two  sides  of  tlie 
town. 


344  CHARACTER  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 

The  whole  country  has  the  appearance  of  behig  ex- 
tremely fertile.  Wood,  however,  is  wanting,  and  this  will 
1)6  a  disadvantage  to  the  town.  It  Avill  make  buildings  and 
fuel  expensive. 

The  general  appearance  of  the  country'  is  also  changed. 
The  hills,  excepting  Tafelberg  and  Nelson's  Kop,  are 
much  lower  than  those  in  the  part  of  the  colony  which  I 
had  left ;  they  are  rounded  at  the  summit,  and  not  hori- 
zontal. But  life  is  everywhere  absent.  We  did  not  meet 
a  human  being  for  a  whole  day  together,  nor  an  ox,  nor 
any  animal.  It  is  said,  however,  lions  are  yet  in  the 
neighbourhood.  One  of  them  was  shot  not  long  since, 
whose  skin  I  saw  used  as  an  i;nder  blanket,  on  the  bed- 
stead of  the  Irish  brick-maker ;  and,  judging  from  the 
enormous  size  of  the  skin  and  mane,  a  fine,  noble  fellow 
he  must  have  been.  He  had  just  before  destroyed  a  valua- 
ble horse,  belonging  to  a  Dutch  farmer.  The  farmer,  it 
seems,  sent  his  man  one  morning  to  fetch  home  the  horse 
from  grazing.  The  man  returned,  and  said,  tlie  horse  was 
lying  on  the  ground,  and  something  by  the  side  of  it. 
•'  Then,"  said  the  farmer,  "  I  know  what  that  something 
is  ;"  and  immediately  loaded  his  gnn,  mounted  a  trvisty 
steed,  and  rode  to  the  spot,  when  he  succeeded  in  lodging 
three  balls  in  the  monster's  side  ;  and  the  deatli  of  the 
lion  was  the  farmer's  recompense  for  the  loss  of  his  horse, 
for  which  he  had  paid  £*33.  He  would,  I  believe,  have 
preferred  keeping  his  horse,  and  sacrificed  willingly  the 
gratification  and  the  glory  of  killing  the  lion. 

It  appeared  to  me,  that  a  large  number  of  valuable 
farms  might  be  formed  here,  and  many  families  obtain  a 
comfortable  subsistence.  It  was  now  a  week  since  I  left 
Imparani.  I  must  have  travelled  130  miles,  and  I  had 
seen  but  one  farm,  or  patch  of  cultivated  land,  and  not  a 
single  dwelling-house  ;  yet  the  land  seemed  to  be  exceed- 
ingly rich  and  fertile,  well-adapted  for  grazing.  It  is  true 
the  horse- sickness  prevails  here  in  the  lower  gi-ounds,  but 
on  "  Table  Mountain"'  plateau,  there  is  an  excellent  supply 


—- *  --s5^if.s:»v^ 


TATKLBEEG,    A    SANDSTONE    HILL    IN    THK    ORANGE    EIVEE   SOVKREIGNIT. 


^^^ 


SANDSTONE    tlll.IJS    IN    THK    ORANGE    RIVKK    SOVEllEIGNTY. 


DIFFICULTIES    OF   TRAVELLING.  315 

of  pasturage,  and  a  small  lake,  that  affords  an  abundant 
supply  of  water.  The  farmer,  who  formei'ly  lived  where  I 
met  with  the  brick-maker,  used  to  take  charge  of  horses 
during  the  time  of  sickness,  and  received  so  much  per 
month  for  the  care  of  them.  They  were  located  on  the 
summit  of  this  mountain.  The  air  is  so  salubrious  that 
none  of  them  died.  This  horse-sickness  is  often  exceed- 
ingly fatal.  It  is  much  dreaded  by  farmers,  both  in  the 
colony  and  many  places  beyond  it.  It  probably  arises 
from  some  miasma  in  the  low  grounds,  as  in  a  higher 
atmosphere  the  animals  are  preserved  in  health. 

We  had  not  proceeded  far,  before  our  wagon  got  into  a 
somewhat  deep  and  troublesome  sort  of  quagmire,  where 
our  hinder  wheel  got  iixed  half-way  up.  We  had  to  dig 
away  earth  in  front  of  each  wheel,  and  to  make  a  petty 
embankment,  to  keep  tlie  water  out  that  came  slowly 
along  from  the  neighbouring  hills,  and  formed  just  here 
a  deeper  pool  than  we  found  convenient.  We  then  lifted 
nearly  all  our  goods  out  of  the  wagon,  and  by  that 
means  lightened  our  cargo  ;  so  we  got  safely  up  on  the 
bank,  but  it  detained  us  four  hours.  Then  we  outspanned 
again,  and  took  our  midday  refreshments.  We  had  not 
gone  much  more  than  an  hour  forward,  when  we  met  with 
a  second  delay.  We  came  to  a  stream  where  the  bottom 
seemed  too  soft  and  unsound  to  admit  our  attempting  to 
cross  it.  We  proceeded  a  little  higher,  but  there  found 
our  oxen  and  wagon  entangled  in  the  labyrinth  of  a  vlei 
or  bottom — a  low  swampy  ground,  impassable  in  the 
rainy  season  ;  and  now  impassable,  though  perfectly  dry 
and  hard,  from  the  nature  of  the  ground.  The  water  had 
been  absorbed  in  narrow  cuts  or  channels,  so  that,  over  a 
vast  extent  of  the  field,  on  each  side  of  the  central  water- 
course, there  are  innumerable  elevations  and  depressions. 
At  about  every  two  yards'  distance  is  a  new  gutter  or  dry 
ditch,  into  which  the  oxen  kept  plunging,  above  their 
knees,  and  would  then  go  no  further.  The  wagon  also  got 
jaiximed  in.     The   animals  became  frightened,  and  would 


3-46  FIRST   SIGHT    OF    NAT.AX. 

not  stir.  So,  having  carefully  examined  the  ground  for 
a  considerable  distance,  and  finding  it  all  of  the  same 
character,  nothing  remained  for  us  but  to  try  and  get 
back  to  the  path  we  had  left.  We  put  our  oxen  to  the 
hind  part  of  the  wagon,  emptied  it  of  nearly  all  its  con- 
tents, and  presently  got  back  to  the  said  path.  It  was 
already  some  time  after  sunset,  and  there  we  remained  for 
the  night. 

Next  morning  we  found  a  part  of  the  water-course  ap- 
parently less  difficult  to  pass  than  in  other  places,  but  still 
requiring  some  preparation  and  arrangement,  or  our  wagon 
would  sink  deep  into  the  mire.  We  threw  in  some  dry 
earth,  cut  turfs,  and  laid  them  on.  Stones  there  were  none 
at  hand.  I  then  advised  going  to  a  neighbouring  kloof  in 
the  mountain,  where  we  saw  there  was  wood.  I  thought 
we  might  cut  some  stout  pieces,  which  we  might  place 
on  the  turfs,  and  over  which  the  wagon  might  ride.  Off 
we  set,  with  all  the  tools  we  could  command, — a  saw,  a 
hatchet,  a  hammer,  and  a  chisel.  I  selected  my  tree, 
and  hammered  my  chisel  pretty  deeply  into  it,  while 
Andries  and  Adam,  the  two  men  with  me,  cut  down  two 
other  young  trees ;  the  saw  finished  mine,  and  we  suc- 
ceeded, at  length,  in  getting  our  road  prepared.  Our  wagon 
crossed  safely,  our  goods  were  carried  over,  and  the  wagon 
re-loaded.  It  Avas  not  long  before  a  most  extensive  and 
magnificent  view  burst  on  our  sight.  We  had  not  only 
reached  the  summit  of  Drakensberg,  but  had  travelled  to 
its  eastern  declivity,  from  whence  we  saw,  to  an  amazing 
distance,  the  Natal  side  of  the  country.  I  could  not  help 
exclaiming  to  our  people,  as  I  first  gazed  on  it,  "  Een  andere 
wereld  !  " — Another  world  !  for  such  it  really  seemed,  from 
the  magnitude  of  the  landscape,  and  its  extremely  different 
character  from  all  that  we  had  seen  for  some  months  past. 
We  locked  our  wagon  wheel  and  began  to  descend,  and 
this  step  was  like  a  new  and  not  unwelcome  intimation 
that  we  were  actually  on  our  way  home  and  getting  nearer 
to  it.     We  could,  of  course,  see  neither  tlie  ocean  or  Port 


PJCHNESS    OF   THE    SOIL.  34 T 

Natal ;  we  were  too  distant  yet — too  many  miles  inland, 
and  too  many  ranges  of  hills  between  us  and  the  coast. 
Nor  could  we  see  Pieter  Mauritzburg,  but  we  knew  that  if 
all  were  well,  we  were  within  five  days'  moderate  journey  of 
it.  We  then  soon  reached  the  point  Avhere  the  old  path 
over  the  Drakenberg  commences,  and  which  leads  to 
"  Bezuidenhoud's  Path."  This  I  was  advised  not  to  take, 
though,  seemingly,  much  the  nearest  to  Pieter  Mauritzburg. 
The  descent  is  steep,  difficult,  and  dangerous,  especially, 
after  the  roads  had  become  slippery  by  rains.  We  took, 
therefore,  the  road  on  our  left,  Avhich  leads  to  "  Harri- 
smith."  We  passed  three  or  four  farms  belonging  to 
colonists,  all  of  them,  I  believe,  Dutch,  where  the  farmers 
were  building  their  houses,  living,  in  the  meantime,  in 
tlieir  wagons.  They  have  selected  excellent  situations. 
The  land  is  rich, — there  is  an  ample  supply  of  wood  for 
building  and  for  fuel,  and  they  are  within  reach  of  good 
streams  of  water.  The  soil  seems  to  consist  almost 
entirely  of  disintegrated  basalt,  with  a  modei'ate  portion  of 
vegetable  mould  on  the  surface.  The  farmers  speak  well 
of  its  fertility.  It  reminded  me  of  the  soil  of  Mauritius, 
and  appears  to  be  of  the  same  quality ;  yet  I  fancy  it  is  too 
cold  here  in  winter  to  permit  the  growth  of  sugar.  The 
trees  consist  of  the  mimosa.  They  were  just  then  in  full 
blossom,  rich  in  api:)earance  and  deliciously  fragrant.  The 
farmers  are  multii^lying  their  cattle  rapidly.  The  whole 
countiy  here  seems  well  adapted  for  pasturage.  I  should 
think  that  in  a  few  years'  time  there  will  be  a  large  popula- 
tion settled  here. 

We  soon  came  to  a  number  of  huts  belonging  to  Zoolu 
Kaffirs.  Some  of  the  men  we  saw  had  the  "  circle"  on 
their  heads,  according  to  Zoolu  fashion.  The  whole  of 
the  hair  is  cut  off,  and  a  circle,  made  of  some  small  reeds,  is 
formed  on  the  scalp,  and  actualhj  stitclicd  into  it.  It  is 
about  half  or  three-fourths  of  an  inch  thick.  It  looks  like  a 
small  coil  of  rope,  but  is  quite  black  and  close-grained. 
We  passed  ten  or  twelve  kraals  or  villages. 


848  SOUTH    AFRICAN    NIAGARA. 

A  few  of  the  men  occasionally  visited  our  wagon.  They 
came  veiy  harmlessly.  The  only  weapons  with  them  were 
sweet  canes,  which  they  seem  to  enjoy  eating.  At  the 
same  time,  I  confess  I  liked  to  use  a  little  caution.  They 
are  cunning  fellows,  and  if  not  watched  might  have  inconve- 
nienced us  by  petty  thefts.  The  only  clothing  they  wore 
consisted  of  a  few  oiTiamental  strips  of  skin  hanging  round 
the  loins.  Some  women  and  children  came  out  of  some 
of  the  villages  to  look  at  us  as  we  passed.  The  women 
wore  rather  more  di'ess,  and,  I  presume,  were  married.  All 
this  country  was,  till  lately,  in  the  hands  of  natives,  but 
became  a  land  of  cannibals.  We  passed  many  deserted 
villages  as  we  went  along.  These  were  probably  the  sites 
of  the  aboriginal  inhabitants,  who  were  destroyed  by  the 
tyrants  Chaka,  Dingaan,  and  others,  or  who  were  driven  to 
the  caverns  and  the  mountains  in  destitution  and  despair. 

We  next  came  to  the  Omgeni  River,  Avhich  falls  into  the 
sea  just  above  Port  Natal.  It  is  low  and  easily  fordable. 
There  is  a  splendid  cascade  immediately  below  the  Drift, 
the  finest,  by  far,  of  all  I  had  seen  or  heard  of  in  South 
Africa.  The  whole  volume  of  the  river  falls  at  once,  bodily, 
over  the  perpendicular  precipice.  The  direct  depth  of  the 
chute,  from  the  bed  of  the  river  where  it  falls,  to  the  stream 
through  the  valley  into  which  it  falls,  is  273  feet.  This 
depth  was  given  me  as  having  been  taken,  professionally, 
by  an  officer.  It  is  said  that  the  depth  of  the  water  at  the 
spot  where  the  cascade  falls,  is  50  feet,  but  which  I  imagine 
is  a  mere  guess.  The  effect  of  the  whole  is  certainly  fine, 
and  from  some  situations  it  must  be  still  more  sublime 
tlian  from  the  spot  where  I  saw  it.  I  descended  a  short 
distance,  and  ventured,  though  with  some  dizzy  sensations 
and  a  fear  of  becoming  giddy,  to  look  over  the  yaAvning 
precipice  on  which  I  stood.  The  geological  situation  of 
the  locality  is  striking,  and  gi-eatly  aids  the  efiect  of  the 
cascade.  It  is  sandstone,  yellowish  in  colour,  and  is  as  if 
an  immense  mass  of  rock  had  subsided  suddenly,  and  to 
the  depth  of  some  300  feet,  commencing  from  the  part  of 


CAoCAbii       OK       THE        OMGtNE       1-UVH,H„ 

IIATAI.. 


A    FINE    CASCADE.  349 

the  river  where  the  water  falls  over,  leaving  an  immense 
oblong  void  or  chasm,  bounded  on  one  side  by  the  fall,  and 
on  two  sides  by  perpendicular  rock,  from  which  the  central 
portion  had  subsided.  The  remaining  side  or  front  is  open 
to  the  valley,  into  which  the  water  then  runs,  and  where  it 
glides  a  short  distance  in  a  serpentine  manner,  and  is  pre- 
sently hid  from  view  by  passing  round  the  hill.  The  whole 
is  well  worthy  the  efforts  of  the  pencil  of  a  good  artist.  I 
tried  to  make  a  sketch  of  it,  from  which  the  annexed  litho- 
graph has  been  prepared.  It  is  said,  the  best  spot  from 
which  to  obtain  a  good  view  of  the  cascade  is  from  a  de- 
clivity on  the  opposite  bank.  I  took  my  position  on  a  part 
of  the  flat  sandstone  forming  a  portion  of  the  precipitous 
side  of  the  chasm.  I  did  not  venture  to  stand  close,  and 
look  over  the  dreadful  void.  I  laid  down,  stretched  myself 
out,  and  then,  gi'asping  a  jutting  piece  of  the  rock,  ventured 
to  peep  over  till  I  could  see  the  whole  fall,  and  the  spot 
where  it  reached  the  boiling  current  beneath. 

On  our  way  towards  Pieter  Mauritzburgwe  crossed  several 
fine  streams  that  run  into  the  Litoukela  or  Tugela,  which 
falls  into  the  sea  about  fifty  miles  N.E.  of  Natal.  These 
gave  me  the  impression  that  all  this  part  of  the  Natal 
country  was  well  watered ;  and  many  a  spot  I  passed  ap- 
l^eared  extremely  rich  and  fertile.  The  Mooi  is  one  of 
these  fine  streams.  It  is  wide  and  rapid,  but  we  had  no 
difficulty  in  fording  it ;  but  why  it  is  called  "  The  Beau- 
tiful," I  do  not  know.  It  is  not  more  attractive  than  many 
other  streams  which  I  had  passed.  It  winds  through  an 
extensive  valley,  and  falls  into  the  Litoukela. 

We  then  reached  within  about  three  or  four  miles  of  the 
town,  just  about  sunset,  and  remained  there  till  next  morn- 
ing, at  a  locality  called  by  the  very  elegant  and  domestic 
name  of  "  Kettle  Fountain." 

The  next  morning  was  Sunday.  I  reached  the  town 
early,  called  on  some  old  friends,  passed  the  day  with  them 
in  public  worship  and  their  family  circles,  and  felt  thank- 
ful to  have  reached  this  additional  milestone  on  my  jour- 


350  PIETEE    IIAUPJTZBUEG. 

nev,  and  to  be  able  to  pass  a  day  or  two  agreeably  and 
usefully  in  this  metropolis  of  our  colony  of  Natal. 

The  town  is  well  situated  and  admirably  supplied  with 
water.     Streams  or  water-courses  are  conveyed  through  all 
the  streets,  and  many  trees,  chiefly  syringas  and  willows, 
are  planted  by  the  houses.     There  are  400  building  lots 
in   the   to-\^Ti ;  many  are  still  unoccupied,   but  there  are 
already   about    1200    European    or    colonial    inhabitants. 
The   sers'ants   are  principally  Zoolus.     There   are  about 
1 00,000  Kaffir  Zoolus  within  the  colony  of  Natal,  who  are 
under    British    protection    and   authority,   but   retaining 
their  own  usages  and  having  their  own  jurisdiction  among 
themselves.     ]Many  of  these  are  people  who  have  come 
over  from  Panda,  the  Zoolu  chief,  and  voluntarily  placed 
themselves  under  the  British  Government.     It  seems  that 
this   large   number  of  aboriginal  natives  consists   of  the 
fragments  of  many  tribes,  and  their  dialects  vaiy  exceed- 
ingly  from   one   another.      The    tribes   themselves  were 
rooted  out  and  destroyed  during  the  devastating  wars  of 
several  past  years,  under   Chaka,  Dingaan,   and   others. 
Panda  himself  is   cniel,   tyrannical,   and  unpopular ;    his 
people  are  glad  to  detach  themselves  from  him,  as  often  as 
they  can  do  so  with  safety.     He  is  reported  to  have  com- 
mitted lately,    and  indeed  daily,  many  atrocities  among 
his  people.     His  power  is  consequently  waning,  and  he  is 
adopting  the  worst  plan  to  restore  it.     The  natives  noAv 
settling  in  the  British  territory  are  required  to   pay   an 
annual  sum,  of  a   small  amount,   on  each  hut.     It  has 
amounted,  in  the  aggregate,  to  £10,000,  and  it  is  applied 
towards  the  payment  of  the  civil  expenses  of  the  colony. 

Emigrants,  I  was  informed,  succeed  best  who  come  out 
free  and  unshackled,  having  no  connexion  with  any 
government  plans  for  disposing  of  the  soil,  or  the  arrange- 
ments of  any  companies  for  that  purpose.  Ai'tisans 
succeed  well  at  once.  Farmers,  or  parties  disposed  to 
farm,  having  a  capital  of  about  £400  or  £500,  succeed 
well.      Large   grazing   farms   may   be  obtained    on   easy 


EMIGRANTS.  35  J 

terms,  say  Is.  or  Is.  Qd.  per  acre  ;  that  is  to  say,  for  a 
farm  of  2000  or  2500  morgan— 4000  or  5000  acres— from 
£200  to  d£350,  and  smaller  farms  in  proportion.  There 
are  said  to  be  certain  parties  who  obtain  land  on  these 
terras,  and  then  in  London  make  offers  of  land  at  the 
easy  rate  of  4s.  or  5s.  per  acre,  securing  to  themselves  a 
considerable  profit,  with  little  trouble,  but  placing  the 
purchasers  in  embarrassment  and  difficulty  on  their 
arrival.  The  latter  have  perhaps  already  expended  their 
capital,  and  are  obliged  to  take  the  shares  or  allotments  of 
land  sold  to  them  in  England  by  the  parties  in  question, 
and  do  the  best  they  can  with  them,  of  however  little  real 
value ;  whereas,  if  they  came  unfettered  to  the  spot,  and 
with  the  same  amount  of  capital  already  expended,  they 
could  choose  for  themselves  with  much  greater  advantage, 
and  even  pay  a  far  less  price  for  the  farm.  The  diffi- 
culty certainly  is,  that  the  allotments  in  Natal  are  large, 
and  such  as  private  persons  coming  out  as  emigrants, 
without  considerable  property,  could  not  purchase.  But 
then  it  does  not  seem  of  much  advantage  that  such 
persons  should  purchase  land.  They  cannot  stock  it,  as 
tliey  have  not  capital  at  command.  Of  course  they  have 
not  the  means  of  purchasing  cattle  and  a  wagon,  and  also 
of  building  a  house,  and  supporting  themselves,  till  they 
get  some  crops  on  sale.  Those  persons  succeed  best,  who 
come  out,  willing  to  do  anything  they  can  towards  their  own 
support,  and  who  are  content  to  rise  beyond  their  present 
condition,  just  as  soon  as  fair  opportunities  offer  of  doing 
so,  and  not  before.  Those  who  come  proudly  or  perti- 
naciously unwilling  to  ivork,  except  in  some  i:)articular 
direction,  and  who  demand  high  wages  for  all  they  do,  or 
scarcely  expect  to  be  obliged  to  work  at  all,  cannot  rise 
out  of  poverty  and  difficulty.  All  who  come  willing  to 
work,  and  resolved  to  be  industrious,  sober,  and  economi- 
cal, fail  not  in  obtaining  competency  and  comf(jrt. 

On  quitting  Pietcr  Mauritzburg  I  pi'oceeded  towards  Inda- 
leni,  a  Mission  station  occupied  by  the  Eev.  Mr.  Alison,  of 


852  IXDALENI    STATION. 

the  Wesleyan  Society.  After  travelling  a  few  hours  we  were 
overtaken  by  a  heavy  mist  or  fog  (reminding  one  of  dear 
old  England),  and  which  compelled  us  to  pitch  our  tent, 
that  is,  to  remain  in  our  wagon,  and  await  the  next  morn- 
ing. We  then  crossed  two  or  three  small  streams,  and 
came  to  the  Ilovo,  which  runs  near  Indaleni.  This  is  a 
troublesome  stream  to  cross.  A  "  comfortable"  bridge  is 
in  course  of  building,  but  the  benefit  of  Avhich  did  not  fall 
to  my  lot.  I  could  only  see  it  in  the  incipient  state,  and 
think  of  the  advantages  which  posterity  might  enjoy. 
My  oxen  were  not  able  to  extricate  my  wagon,  which  had 
got  fast  on  attempting  to  cross  the  stream.  Mr.  Alison,  to 
whom  we  sent  forward,  kindly  came  to  my  relief,  and  with 
his  fresh  and  vigorous  team,  soon  put  matters  straight. 
I  accompanied  him  in  his  wagon,  and  soon  reached  his 
residence,  where  I  met  with  a  most  kind  and  hospitable 
reception.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Alison  have  been  eighteen  years 
in  the  IMission  field,  in  connexion  with  the  Wesleyan 
Society,  and  are  familiar  with  the  Hottentot,  Griqua  and 
Bechuana  Missions,  as  well  as  those  of  the  Baharutse, 
Zoolus  and  Basutos.  Mr.  A.  was  formerly  Missionary 
with  Sikonyella,  of  whom  he  has  not  a  high  opinion,  and  of 
whose  evil  proceedings  he  was  for  a  long  time  an  eye- 
witness. He  was  also  stationed  among  the  Amasuazzi, 
otherwise  called  Baraputze,  and  was  forced  to  remove  from 
them  by  the  jealousy  of  the  diiferent  tribes,  the  conse- 
quent civil  wai's  that  raged,  the  murders  of  their  people, 
the  famines  that  ensued,  and  the  imminent  danger  to 
which  his  own  life  and  that  of  Mrs.  Alison  were  constantly 
exposed. 

At  present  they  are  forming  an  important  Missionary 
station  here,  on  property  held  by  sufferance  from  the 
Government.  Yery  many  of  the  natives  from  the  Ama- 
suazzi have  followed  him  from  their  o'svn  country,  and 
gladly  settled  down  with  him  in  this  new  location,  mider 
the  instruction  of  the  Missionary  and  the  protection  of  the 
British  Government.     He  has  about  1200  persons  alto- 


INDALENI   STATION.  353 

gether  under  his  care  :  upwards  of  100  are  communicants. 
About  forty  of  them  can  read  the  New  Testament  well,  and 
many  others  tolerably.  His  plan  is  to  have  a  number  both 
of  young  men  and  women  under  domestic  and  special 
training ;  they  live  under  his  roof,  and  form,  in  fact,  an 
Institution.  At  present  their  number  is  thirty-six.  His 
direct  aim  is  not  to  train  them  as  native  teachers,  but  to 
become  intelligent  and  orderly  members  of  the  commu- 
nity ;  and  in  this  respect  the  plan  succeeds  admirably. 
Beyond  this,  however,  many  of  them,  being  constantly 
under  careful  and  judicious  religious  training,  are  brought 
to  an  acquaintance  with  Divine  truth,  and  have  given  very 
pleasing  evidences  of  conversion  to  God. 

I  met  there,  during  my  visit,  seven  of  the  natives,  who 
ai"e  leading  members  of  the  church,  and  actively  employed 
in  visiting  the  villages,  where  many  of  these  jDeople  are 
located.  There  are  thirteen  villages  thus  visited.  I  had, 
through  Mr.  A.,  a  long  and  interesting  conversation  with 
them.  They  replied  with  much  intelligence  to  my  ques- 
tions, and  then  asked  me  several  sensible  questions  about 
Madagascar,  of  which  they  had  heard  from  their  Missionary. 
They  then  gave  me  some  details  of  their  personal  history. 
Many  of  the  events  of  their  lives  are  full  of  interest, — I 
might  say,  of  tragical  interest, — for  in  most  instances  they 
have  been  exposed  to  the  fury  of  war  and  murder,  and  only 
preserved  by  some  remarkable  interpositions  of  Providence 
in  their  favour.  They  have  fled  some  four  or  five  hundred 
miles  from  their  native  country  to  find  safety  and  a  home 
under  the  Aving  and  friendship  of  the  Missionary. 

Next  morning,  a  public  service  was  held.  It  was  a  re- 
freshing and  delightful  sight ;  there  must  have  been  from 
150  to  200  present,  including  a  few  children.  All  were 
decently  attired  in  European  clothing,  with  very  few 
exceptions  ;  and  those  exceptions  consisted  of  persons  who 
bad  but  just  arrived  on  the  establishment,  who  came  liter- 
ally with  nothing,  but  waited  to  be  employed,  that  they 
might  earn  some  wages,  and  obtain  food  and  clothing.     I 

A  A 


354  CIVILIZATION. 

have  never  addressed  a  congregation  of  more  attentive 
hearers.  At  the  close  of  the  service,  Mr.  A.  called  those 
together  who  are  now  under  his  immediate  and  domestic 
training.  There  were  about  twenty-four  young  men,  and 
twelve  young  women.  About  thirty-six  are  as  many  as  the 
premises  admit  at  a  time.  About  twenty  or  thirty  of  the 
number — some  ten  or  fifteen  couples — usually  settle  in 
life  every  year,  on  the  station  ;  and  hence  a  large  por- 
tion of  the  congregation  consists  of  those  who  have 
been  trained  and  instructed  by  the  Missionary.  Mrs. 
A.  teaches  the  women,  very  many  of  whom  can  now 
make  their  own  dresses  and  their  husbands'  shirts, 
trousers,  &c.,  besides  doing  a  great  deal  of  needlework 
which  is  afterwards  sold  for  the  support  of  the  In- 
stitution. The  people  are  building  houses  for  them- 
selves as  fast  as  they  can  obtain  the  means  of  doing  so. 
These  are  square  houses,  with  two  rooms,  a  chimney,  and 
a  fire-place  each.  They  have  also  a  glass  Avindow.  1  went 
into  one  of  them  lately,  built  by  a  young  man,  and  found 
its  sitting  and  bed-rooms,  shelves,  chairs,  bedsteads,  a  few 
books,  small  looking-glass,  cups,  &c., — everything  having 
the  appearance  of  comfort  and  comparative  respectability. 
A  wonderful  improvement  all  this,  in  a  short  time,  and  a 
delightful  advance  in  civilization  !  All  this  comes  in  the 
place  of  oppression  and  suffering,  terror,  w^ar,  and  naked- 
ness, famine  and  profound  ignorance.  I  have  a  deep  per- 
suasion that  such  an  Institution  is  every  way  deserving 
of  s}Tnpathy  and  support,  and  left  the  spot  with  the  full 
impression  that  the  excellent  Missionaries  themselves,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  A.  were  worthy  of  most  cordial  commendation 
and  encouragement.  The  people  seem  exceedingly  attached 
to  them,  and  well  they  may  be,  for  they  find  in  them  a 
father  and  a  mother,  instructors,  guides,  and  friends. 

Leaving  Indaleni,  my  intention  was  to  visit  the  Nor- 
wegian Missionary  station,  under  the  care  of  Dr.  Schroeder, 
but  I  did  not  succeed  in  finding  it.  Guides  accompanied 
us  pai-t  of  the  way,  when,  fearing  to  have  to  return  alone 


STREAMS    IMPASSABLE.  355 

from  a  greater  distance,  and  assuring  us  that  our  path  was 
straight  and  could  not  be  mistaken,  they  left  us  and  went 
back  to  the  station. 

We  presently  came  to  a  low,  swampy  place,  having  a 
deep  stream  running  through  the  middle  of  it,  far  too  deep 
to  admit  the  passage  of  our  wagon,  and  after  trying  in  vain 
to  find  a  ford,  we  deemed  it  expedient  to  return  on  our 
path,  and  did  so  for  many  miles,  and  at  length  reached  the 
road,  along  which  we  had  come  from  Petermaritzburg,  in 
our  way  to  Indaleni.  We  continued  along  this  road  to 
Avithin  about  seven  or  eight  miles  of  the  town,  and  readied 
the  Omlazi,  at  the  ford  where  I  had  parted  with  Mr.  Bu- 
chanan and  Mr.  Ainstie  three  days  previously,  on  my  way 
to  Indaleni.  But  here  was  a  great  change  in  the  state  of 
the  river.  Theti  we  had  no  difficulty  in  crossing  ;  nov.'  it 
was  impassable.  The  late  heavy  rains  had  made  it  a  for- 
midable torrent,  that  would  have  carried  away  oxen,  wagon, 
and  all,  had  we  attempted  to  pass.  A  farmer  from  Scot- 
land, residing  on  the  spot,  advised  me  to  wait  till  morning, 
when,  if  no  new  heavy  rains  fell,  I  should  be  able  to  ford 
the  stream  higher  up.   I  accordingly  remained  for  the  night. 

The  next  morning  proved  remarkably  fine  ;  scarcely  any 
rain  had  fallen  during  the  night,  and  the  stream  had  fallen 
more  than  four  feet.  About  10  o'clock,  to  my  great  sur- 
prise, Mr.  Alison  arrived  with  two  of  his  people.  They 
had  felt  anxious  as  to  my  position.  He  guessed  I  should 
be  here ;  but  fearing  lest  I  might  have  attempted  to  cross 
the  stream  and  met  with  any  accident,  he  had  kindly  rode 
forward  to  make  inquiry.  As  the  water  was  now  suffi- 
ciently low  to  justify  the  attempt  to  cross,  and  might 
possibly  so  increase  as  to  detain  me  long,  if  rain  should 
again  fall,  I  set  out  and  reached  the  proper  part  of  the 
stream  for  fording,  wliere  we  got  over  without  any  serious 
difficulty  ;  and  it  was  a  welcome  sound  when,  having  got 
over,  I  heard  Mr.  Alison  exclaim,  "  Now  you  have  passed 
your  last  difficulty,"  meaning,  tliat  I  had  no  further  streams 
to  interrupt  me  on  my  way  to  Port  Natal. 


356  PRICE    OF    LAND. 

Disappointed  in  not  being  able  to  find  the  Norwegian 
station,  we  continued  travelling  for  about  five  hours, 
meeting  with  no  obstruction ;  and  then,  seeing  cattle, 
horses,  and  a  house  at  a  little  distance,  we  made  towards  the 
spot,  hoping  it  might  be  the  place  of  which  we  were  in 
search.  However,  it  proved  to  be  the  residence  of  a  Dutch 
farmer,  from  whom  I  learnt  that  Dr.  Schroeder's  station 
was  at  a  great  distance ;  that  we  were  fairly  in  the  path 
that  led  to  the  high  road  for  Natal ;  that  the  Port  was  still 
two  long  days' journey  distant;  that  we  had  yet  to  cross 
the  "Omlazi"  twice  before  reaching  there;  but  that  we 
should  find  the  American  Mission  station  of  Dr.  Adams  on 
our  way.  We  proceeded  on  our  route  till  sunset,  and  placed 
ourselves  by  the  roadside  for  the  night.  It  was  a  dreary 
and  uninviting  country  through  which  we  were  now  pass- 
ing. The  land  looked  poor,  and  wood  was  scarce.  We 
passed  the  spot  which  is  called  "  Uysdoorn,"  the  "thorns, 
or  thorn-bush  of  Uys,"  the  name  of  a  Dutch  farmer.  This 
I  imderstood  was  a  piece  of  land  that  had  been  selling  in 
England  at  5s.  per  acre! — a  further  proof,  as  it  appeared  to 
me,  and  many  others,  that  emigrants  would  do  best  not  to 
make  any  purchases  or  come  under  obligations  in  Eng- 
land, but  to  carry  their  money  with  them,  and  to  choose 
and  act  for  themselves  on  the  spot.  I  found  that  many 
who  had  lately  come  out  to  this  colony  contemplated  re- 
turning to  England  without  delay,  disappointed  and  dis- 
gusted with  all  they  have  met  with.  They  must  have 
raised  their  expectations  too  high,  and  have  shrunk  too 
soon  from  inconvenience  and  difficulties.  A  remark  which 
I  have  heard  made  in  reference  to  er;iigi'ants,  is,  I  think, 
just — that  "  there  are  few  who,  within  the  first  few  months 
of  their  residence,  do  not  wish  to  return ;  and  but  ver}' 
few  who  do  wish  it,  or  who  would  be  willing  to  do  it,  after 
a  three  years'  residence." 

Continuing  my  journey  towards  Port  Natal,  I  met  Dr. 
Adams,  the  American  Missionary,  when  about  two  hours' 
distance  from  his  residence.     He  and  Mrs.  Adams  had  left 


BEAUTIFUL    COUNTRY.  357 

home  on  account  of  indisi^osition.  They  both  appeared 
to  me  exceedingly  unwell,  and  requiring  a  change.  They 
were  now  on  their  way  towards  Petermaritzburg,  and  were 
intending  to  proceed  towards  the  Drakenberg,  but  which 
they  did  not  contemplate  crossing.  I  was  sorry  to  lose 
the  opportunity  of  passing  a  few  hours  in  their  society, 
and  ascertaining  from  them,  on  the  spot,  the  state  and 
prospects  of  the  American  Missions.  However,  I  hoped 
to  be  able  to  see  Mr.  Lindsey,  who  resides  within  a  few 
hours'  ride  of  the  Bay,  and  Mr.  Wylder,  who  is  still  nearer. 
Dr.  Adams  has  removed  to  this  station  witliin  the  last 
three  years,  from  the  banks  of  the  Umlazi,  and  his  station 
still  retains  the  same  name. 

We  passed  his  settlement  in  the  course  of  the  afternoon. 
It  has  a  pleasing  and  cheerful  appearance.  I  stopped  and 
conversed  with  the  assistant  teacher,  who  liad  been  with 
him  fourteen  years,  from  the  commencement  of  the  Mis- 
sions, and  with  another  native,  both  of  whom  understood 
English.  The  former  spoke  it  with  a  good  deal  of  fluency. 
They  were  both  natives  of  the  Zoolu  country. 

And  now  again,  much  of  the  country  through  which  we 
were  passing  was  exceedingly  beautiful.  Having  reached 
the  summit  of  a  lofty  eminence,  a  scene  of  surpassing 
gi'andeur  and  magnificence  burst  at  once  on  our  view, 
including  the  whole  country  between  us  and  the  sea,  the 
dim  and  hazy  outline  of  which  we  could  catch,  at  a  dis- 
tance of  twenty-five  to  thirty  miles.  The  country,  stretch- 
ing far  away  to  the  north  and  south,  appears  to  be  all  of 
the  same  character,  and  a  good  deal  resembling  that  of 
Kaffirland,  to  which  indeed  that  in  the  south  is  contiguous. 

The  elevation  of  the  country  here  may  be  about  1000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  hills  are  gentle,  soft, 
rounded,  and  well  wooded,  always  covered  with  grass,  and 
occasionally  with  wood,  to  the  summits.  It  seems  just  the 
country  to  attract  and  satisfy  emigrants.  The  soil  also  is 
good,  the  grass  is  excellent,  and  all  the  materials  for  build- 
ing are  here.     The  streams  are  pretty  numerous ;  and  as 


358  d'urban. 

the  grass  is  always  gi-een,  as  I  was  informed,  the  rains 
must  be  abundant.  Here  would  seem  to  be  room  for 
many  hundreds  of  farms;  but  how  far  this  part  of  the  Natal 
district  is  actually  engaged  and  occupied,  I  cannot  say. 

After  a  long  and  fatiguing  day's  ride,  I  reached  Port 
Natal  in  the  evening.  Owing  to  heavy  rains  the  streams 
were  all  full,  and  the  roads  extremely  heavy,  and  especially 
as  we  drew  near  the  town  of  D 'Urban.  It  is  a  long  and 
tedious  ride  down  by  the  side  of  the  bay.  Then  having 
found  a  quiet  and  shady  nook,  at  the  entrance  of  the  tovvTi, 
and  having  unyoked  the  oxen,  and  taken  a  little  refresh- 
ment, I  set  out  to  find  Mr.  Holden,  the  Wesleyan  minister. 
I  succeeded  in  doing  so,  and  accompanied  him  to  chapel 
in  the  evening,  where  he  delivered  a  solid,  useful,  and 
practical  discourse.  My  intention  was  to  take  a  night's 
rest  at  the  hotel  (Macdonald's),  near  his  house.  However, 
the  house  Avas  full,  and  I  could  get  no  accommodation, 
neither  could  I  find  my  way  back  to  the  wagon ;  so,  fa- 
tigued with  wandering  about,  I  returned  to  Mr.  Holden 's, 
where  I  remained  for  the  night,  thankful  to  find  the  advan- 
tages of  civilized  life,  and  of  Christian  friendship. 

I  ascertained  there  was  a  vessel  in  the  bay,  "  ready  for 
sea,"  the  Hannah,  and  she  had  been  so  for  three  w^eeks, 
but  detained  all  that  time,  waiting  for  sufficient  water  to 
cross  the  bar.  Three  or  four  vessels  were  waiting  outside, 
ready  to  come  in,  but  could  not,  for  the  same  reason.  It 
seemed  that,  at  present,  only  six  feet  of  water  could  be  found, 
even  at  high  tide;  and  as  even  small  vessels  draw  more 
than  that,  all  are  detained.  This  was  regarded  as  an  un- 
usual circumstance,  and  accounted  for  by  the  long  pre- 
valence of  strong  southerly  winds,  and  the  absence  of 
rains.  In  consequence  of  the  former,  an  immense  quantity 
of  sand  is  thrown  up  on  the  bar ;  and  in  consequence  of 
the  latter,  the  quantity  of  water  carried  down  from  the 
land  into  the  bay,  had  been  insufficient  to  carry  off  this 
large  accumulation.  Spring  tides  wovild  occur  the  next 
week,  and  it  was  confidently  hoped  there  would  be  suffi- 


PANDA,    ZOOLU    CHIEF.  359 

cient  water  in  the  bay  to  carry  the  vessels  over  it,  both  for 
those  within  and  those  without,  and  I  accordingly  took 
my  passage  on  board  the  Hannah  for  Table  Bay. 

During  my  stay  at  D 'Urban  I  had  the  pleasure  of  re- 
maining under  the  hospitable  and  friendly  roof  of  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Holden,  where  I  met  Dr.  Schroeder,  and  also  Mr.  L. 
Grout,  the  latter  of  the  American  Missionary  Society, 
whose  station  is  about  thirty  miles  distant,  but  which  I  did 
not  visit,  partly  because  I  was  daily  expecting  the  Hannah 
to  sail,  and  partly  because  my  oxen  were  too  fatigued  with 
their  long  journey  to  bear  any  further  burden  at  present. 

The  American  Society,  I  found,  had  twelve  Missionaries 
labouring  among  the  Zoolus,  all  within  the  Natal  colony. 
Panda,  the  Zoolu  chief,  will  not  admit  a  Missionary  within 
his  own  territory.  He  is  said  to  be  actuated  by  a  jealous 
fear  of  losing  his  influence  among  his  own  people  in  pro- 
portion as  Europeans,  under  any  circumstances,  obtain  such 
influence.  There  is  no  doubt  his  power  would  be  under- 
mined, just  as  his  people  become  enlightened  and  Christian, 
and  just  as  all  arbitrary  and  despotic  Governments  must  be 
modified  as  subjects  become  intelligent:  he  would  not  be 
able  to  maintain  the  same  despotic,  cruel,  and  unreasoning 
authority  which  he  now  exercises.  The  revolting  customs 
of  the  country  would  be  abandoned,  and  the  reign  of  terror 
would  cease.  Were  he  also  to  become  a  Christian  the 
difficulty  would  vanish.  The  character  of  his  government 
would  be  changed.  Mildness,  reason,  and  mercy  would 
become  its  elements,  instead  of  its  present  ferocity  and 
cruelty.  And  then  he  might  retain  his  influence  and  use 
the  whole  of  it  for  good.  However,  that  docs  not  seem  to 
be  the  plan  of  Providence,  and  the  change  in  the  condition 
of  his  people  is  being  brought  about  by  another  process. 
His  cruelties  are  detaching  them  from  him,  and  thereby  his 
power  is  weakened.  Those  who  leave  him  come  over  to 
the  British  territory,  and  many  of  them  witliin  the  reach 
of  Christian  influence,  especially  in  connexion  with  the 
Missionary  Institutions.     It  may  not  be  long  before  the 


360  ZOOLUS    IN    NATAL. 

British  Government  may  be  in  a  position,  if  necessary,  to 
dictate  terms  to  Panda  himself.  He  will  sink  to  an  insig- 
nificant and  petty  chieftain,  without  ability  to  destroy  his 
people  as  he  is  now  doing.  Then,  by  the  dissolution  of 
his  authority  and  power,  a  way  may  be  opened  for  the 
advancement  of  his  people  in  knowledge,  civilization,  and 
Christianity. 

I  found  about  400  or  500  persons,  European  and  colo- 
nists, resident  at  D 'Urban.  The  exact  number  of  Zoolus 
in  their  service  was  not  known.  They  are  numerous  and 
willing  to  work.  Their  wages  is  5s.  per  niontb,  with  pro- 
visions, which  may  amount  to  about  5s.  more.  The  men 
only  come  in  to  work.  Scarcely  any  of  their  women  do,  and 
many  of  the  men  only  work  till  they  have  obtained  enough 
to  enable  them  to  purchase  an  ox  or  a  cow,  and  therewith 
to  purchase  a  wife  !  They  are  said  to  be  exceedingly  trust- 
worthy. They  are  often  sent  with  money  to  a  great  dis- 
tance, and  are  faithful  to  the  trust  committed  to  them. 
Still  it  is  an  anomalous  state  of  things.  Here  are  100,000 
of  them  living  within  the  British  territory  of  Natal,  yet 
without  chief  or  ruler  of  their  own.  If  any  cases  of  offence 
or  dispute  arise,  they  are  brought  for  the  most  part  under 
the  notice  of  Mr.  Shepstone,  Diplomatic  Agent  for  these 
tribes,  and  are  settled  by  him.  As  ah'eady  I'emai'ked,  they 
retain  their  own  customs,  but  are  not  allowed  to  put  any 
persons  to  death  for  witchcraft,  as  formerly,  among  them- 
selves, nor,  indeed,  for  any  offence  ;  but  they  have  not  been 
instructed  to  consider  themselves  as  wholly  under  British 
law.  They  are  "  native  foreigners,"  and  have  no  perma- 
nent right  given  them  in  the  soil.  They  have  no  lands 
which  they  can  properly  call  their  own,  nor  does  it  appear 
to  be  the  intention  of  the  Government  that  they  should 
have  any.  The  present  capitation  tax  which  they  pay  is 
simply  a  recognition  of  ihe  British  sovereignty  over  the 
country  in  which  they  are  permitted  to  dwell.  They  are 
not  the  aborigines  of  this  territory.  They,  the  aborigines, 
have  perished.     The  present  tribes  are  simply  occupants, 


TOWN  OF  d'ueban,  361 

and  cannot  claim  to  be  here  without  some  pajTiient  in  sup- 
port of  the  Government  whose  protection  they  enjoy. 
They  are  located  by  the  Government,  and  on  these  loca- 
tions they  cultivate  lands  and  build  their  native  huts. 
Very  few  of  them  would  build  any  other  or  better  kind  of 
habitation,  whatever  security  they  might  have  in  the  soil. 
They  are  not,  therefoi'e,  put  into  a  worse  condition  by  the 
j^resent  state  of  the  tenure  on  which  they  are  sufi'ered  to 
reside  in  the  territory.  The  truth  is,  till  they  become  in 
some  degree  Christians,  they  adopt  none  of  the  customs 
and  habits  of  civilized  life.  They  prefer  their  own.  To 
put  on  any  European  dress  is  an  indication  of  a  change  of 
mind,  involving  the  abandonment  of  heathenism  ;  and  this 
involves  so  much,  that  they  will  not  hastily  do  it — especially 
the  renunciation  of  polygamy. 

D 'Urban,  the  rising  town  of  Port  Natal,  is  laid  out  for 
4.50  allotments,  and  if  each  of  those  had  a  household  of  five 
persons  it  would  give  a  population  of  upwards  of  2000, 
besides  the  floating  population  of  Zoolu  servants.  Some 
few  of  the  houses  are  good  and  substantial.  Several  others 
are  in  course  of  erection,  but  for  the  most  part  they  are 
very  fragile  and  temporary.  Many  scores  of  these  have 
been  put  up  within  the  last  three  or  four  months.  The 
streets  are  all  laid  out  on  a  given  plan,  and  all  the  houses 
are  built  in  conformit}'  with  the  plan ;  yet  scarcely  any- 
thing of  uniformity  appears  as  yet.  Only  the  main  line 
can  be  seen.  The  new  Wesleyan  Chapel  and  the  Govern- 
ment School  were  the  only  good  buildings  in  the  town. 
Here  are  many  extensive  stores,  which  are  comparatively 
well  supplied.  A  large  amount  of  business  is  carried  on, 
and  some  property  has  been  already  realized.  A  few  par- 
ties are  said  to  have  made  fortunes.  This  is  not  the  seat 
of  Government  for  the  district.  It  is  simply  the  senport: 
Pietermauritzburg  is  the  metropolis.  The  main  difficulty 
in  the  way  of  the  prosperity  of  this  young  colony  ap|)ears 
to  be  tlie  bar  already  spoken  of.  IJut  efforts  are  being 
made   to  obviate   this   difficulty.     The   main  thing  to  be 


362  THE  "  BAR  "  AT  PORT  XATAL. 

accomplished  is  to  secure  a  narrow  outlet  from  the  interior 
hay  into  the  sea,  hy  which  means  the  bar  or  sand-bank 
would  be  sufficiently  washed  down  and  kept  down  to  allow 
vessels  to  pass  out.  At  present  the  sea  comes  in  and 
spreads  over  a  bay  of  about  ten  miles  circumference,  and 
in  going  out  spreads  over  an  immense  piece  of  sand  before 
going  into  the  ocean  itself.  There  is,  however,  a  project- 
ing point  or  promontorj^  opposite  to  the  "  Bluff;"  and  to 
defend  that  point  from  being  washed  away  and  to  cai'iy  it 
out  somewhat  further  and  create  a  bank  there,  with  bushes, 
stones,  &c.,  filled  up  with  sand,  are  the  works  contem- 
plated. 

I  accompanied  Mr.  Holden  to  visit  Mr.  Wylder  of  the 
American  Society,  a  few  miles  distance,  and  who  has  charge 
of  the  printing  department  of  that  Mission,  and  a  very 
effective  and  well-conducted  department  it  appeared  to  be. 
The  brethren  of  that  Mission  were  directing  their  attention 
to  the  subject  of  an  uniform  orthography  in  the  native 
languages  of  this  part  of  South  Africa,  a  subject  on  which  I 
was  glad  to  find  them  occupied,  as  the  Rev.  Mr.  Venn  and 
other  friends  of  the  Church  Missionary  Society  in  England 
had  been  with  especial  reference  to  the  languages  of  West- 
ern Africa. 

We  passed  on  our  way  through  some  lovely  country  and 
most  productive  soil.  Mr.  Holden  held  a  sen'ice  at  a  small 
Kaffir  village,  in  the  open  air,  at  which  about  forty  persons 
were  present.  Mr.  Holden  spoke  in  Dutch,  and  it  was 
fluently  translated  into  the  Zoolu  by  a  native  interpreter. 
A  class  meeting  was  afterwards  held.  About  twelve  of 
those  present  are  in  full  communion.  Some  of  the  women 
present,  had  on  the  first  European  dresses  they  had  ever 
worn.  Most  present  were  decently  and  comfortably  clad. 
A  few  men  were  there,  still  heathens,  and  retaining  their 
heathen  customs  as  to  dress.  It  was  altogether  an  inter- 
resting  and  encouraging  seiwice.  One  kind-hearted  woman 
as  soon  as  she  heard  we  were  coming  prepared  a  Kafiir 
meal  for  us — a  pot  of  sour  milk,  some  Kafl&r  corn  bread, 


NEW    GERMANY.  363 

and  some  Kaffir  tea.  The  milk  had  not  long  been  taken 
from  the  cow,  was  added  to  a  small  quantity  that  was  left  in 
the  bag  used  for  the  purpose,  and  exposed  a  short  time  to 
the  sun.  It  thus  becomes  fit  for  immediate  use,  and  is 
agreeable  and  refreshing.  The  bread  was  fresh,  crisp,  and 
good  :  we  broke  it  in  small  pieces,  and  ate  it  mixed  with  the 
milk.  The  tea  is  made  from  a  native  root,  and  is  by  no 
means  without  a  pleasant  flavour :  it  forms  a  very  good 
substitute  for  our  China  teas,  on  such  an  occasion. 

Mr.  Holden  and  myself  rode  over  to  see  the  new  station 
formed  by  German  emigrants,  and  called  "  New  Germany." 
It  is  the  cotton-growing  establishment  introduced  by 
Messrs.  Young  and  Co.  It  is  about  ten  miles  from  D 'Urban. 
Our  road  to  it  lay  between  Berea  woods.  These  are  said 
to  be  still  infested  with  elephants,  so  that  no  person  likes  to 
venture  after  sunset  through  the  path,  nor  will  even  the 
"  elephant  hunters"  enter  the  jimgle,  it  is  so  extremely 
dense.  There  is  no  open  space  in  which  the  elephant 
could  be  seen  at  a  distance.  If  found,  the  hunters  would 
come  on  them  suddenly  ;  and  as  taking  them  by  surprise 
is  dangerous,  unless  there  is  room  for  escape,  the  pursuit 
is  too  hazardous  in  the  present  state  of  the  forest.  Having 
passed  through  the  forest,  the  scenery  becomes  not  only 
beautiful  but  enchanting.  From  some  elevated  points  the 
view  is  very  extensive.  We  passed  some  fine  cotton  fields 
connected  with  the  German  station,  They  appeared  to  me 
to  be  yielding  a  large  crop.  Many  persons  were  employed 
picking  the  cotton,  but  very  many  more,  it  struck  me,  ought 
to  have  been  r/ettinr/  it  in  at  once,  while  ripe  and  ready, 
lest  rains  should  set  in  and  spoil  it. 

We  found  the  Missionary  at  home,  and  spent  a  few 
hours  with  him  ;  he  was  some  time  since  in  Kaffirland,  now 
British  Kaffraria.  The  Mission  is  sustained  in  part  by  the 
Berlin  Society,  and  in  part  by  Messrs.  Young.  There 
wore  thirty-five  families  in  the  settlement,  consisting  of 
about  two  hundred  individuals.  They  were  all  poor  on 
leaving  Germany;  but  are  now  raised  above  any  circum- 


304  COTTON    GROWING. 

stances  of  want  or  distress.  Dr.  Scholz  has  the  secular 
management  of  the  settlement.  The  land  belongs  to  Messrs. 
Young.  The  emigrants,  who  are  all  Germans,  have  hitherto 
paid  nothing  for  the  laud.  They  have  been  encouraged  to 
come  out  and  settle  down  as  colonists,  and  when  they  are 
thought  to  be  sufficiently  advanced,  they  will  begin  to  make 
some  payment.  It  is  considered  by  some,  that  each  family 
could  already  pay  from  £10  to  £0,0  per  annum.  Thei'e  are 
a  small  neat  chapel  and  a  school  on  the  establishment.  All 
the  adults  attend  public  worship.  The  Missionaiy  enter- 
tains a  confident  persuasion  that  much  good  is  being  done 
both  among  the  Germans  and  the  Kaffirs  who  are  under  his 
care.  So  satisfied  with  their  prospects  were  the  Germans 
on  the  settlement,  that  they  had  sent  home  some  of  their 
number  to  represent  it  among  their  friends,  and  to  en- 
courage them  also  to  come  out.  There  is  ample  room  for 
an  immense  number,  and  especially  if  they  can  be  sup- 
ported for  the  first  year,  and  in  part  for  the  second  also. 
By  that  time  they  may  have  brought  land  enough  under 
cultivation  for  the  support  of  their  families,  and  in  two 
years  more  they  may  be  in  circumstances  of  gi'eat  comfort, 
and  assist  in  raising  produce,  such  as  cotton,  &c.,  for  ex- 
portation. 

At  length,  after  many  delays,  many  attempts  to  get  away, 
many  anxieties  and  regrets,  the  Hannah  got  fairly  out 
of  the  inner  bay,  though  not  without  some  risk  even  then 
of  her  being  lost  outside  ;  the  passengers  all  embarked,  we 
hoisted  sail,  and  had  the  prospect  of  a  good  passage  to  Table 
Bay.  I  took  leave  of  Natal,  much  giatified  that  I  had  been 
able  to  pay  this  new  colony  of  Great  Britain  a  visit.  It  has 
fallen  into  the  hands  of  our  country  by  a  succession  of 
events  that  would  seem  to  indicate  the  necessity  of  our 
taking  possession  of  it.  Originally  it  belonged  to  the  native 
Zoolus.  Chaka  gave  up  a  large  section  of  it,  by  sale,  to 
Lieutenant  Farewell  and  his  party.  That  aiTangement 
finally  dropped  through.  Cbaka  was  killed  by  Dingaan  his 
successor,  and  he  in  turn  by  Panda.     The  Dutch  emigrants 


OCCUPATION    OF   NATAL.  365 

from  the  Cape  colony  got  possession  of  the  country,  and 
were  erecting  it  into  an  independent  republic,  witli  no  little 
hostile  feeling  towards  Great  Britain.  They  had  much  to 
complain  of — their  manifestos  deserved  the  ear  of  Govern- 
ment ;  but  not  finding  the  redress  they  claimed,  they 
placed  themselves  in  an  unfortunate  attitude  of  defiance, 
and  were  beaten.  Such  as  chose  to  remain  were  allowed 
to  do  so,  and  fall  under  the  authority  and  protection  of 
Great  Britain.  Nearly  all  preferred  to  retire.  They  have 
gone  far  into  the  interior.  Natal  became  an  unoccupied 
country ;  emigrants  from  Great  Britain  soon  flocked  there 
in  large  numbers,  and  now  it  is  filling  up,  has  its  own  local 
government,  independent  of  the  Cape,  and  promises  to 
become  a  flourishing  settlement. 

Most  contradictory  reports  respecting  it  have  been  circu- 
lated, which  it  is  not  my  business  to  reconcile  and  harmo- 
nise. I  can  state  only  what  I  saw  and  what  I  heard  on  the 
spot.  I  saw  much  beautiful  land,  rich  soil,  numerous 
streams,  and  extensive  forests.  I  found  the  air  salubrious 
and  pleasant,  and  I  witnessed  the  rising  prospects  of  many 
families.  I  often  said  to  myself  as  I  passed  through  the 
colony,  "Were  I  now  proposing  to  emigrate,  I  would  select 
Natal  as  the  sphere  of  ray  enterprise." 

I  met  parties  from  Mauritius,  who  had  come  to  examine  its 
capabilities  for  groicinrj  sugar,  and  they  pronounced  it  to  be 
unsuitable  :  as  the  soil,  they  said,  was  not  well  adapted  to 
it,  and  the  labour  to  be  obtained  too  difficult  and  uncertain. 
All  this  might  be  true,  I  thought,  as  compared  with  Mau- 
ritius ;  and  yet  I  am  persuaded  much  sugar  might  be  pro- 
duced there.  As  to  cotton,  the  experiment  has  been  made, 
and  it  is  not  a  failure,  and  abundance  of  it  may  be 
raised.  The  obtaining  of  labour  will  much  depend  on  the 
treatment  the  Zoolus  receive  from  their  white  employers. 
Treat  them  kindly,  and  pay  them  fair  wages,  and  there 
will  be  no  great  difficulty  in  procuring  labour. 


CHAPTER    XVI. 
MAUEITIUS  AND  MADAGASCAR. 

HETUKX  TO  CAPE  TOWN INTERVIEW  WITH  THE  GOVEKNOE GOTERXOR's 

DEFENCE INQUIRY      DEMANDED MURDER EDUCATION ARRIVAL 

IN  MAURITIUS DAVID  RATSABAHOMBA CHAPEL    IN    PORT    LOUIS 

SERVICES FORMER   SLAVES    AND    INDIAN  COOLIES MADAGASCAR 

MOKA,  MISSION  STATION MALAGASY DAVID  JOHNS  AXDRIANADO 

NOUVELLE  DECOUVERTE PAOLY PLAIN    WILHELMS NEW  CHAPEL 

EXTINCT    VOLCANO — MADAGASCAR LETTER   FROM  THE    aUEEN 

TRADE    WITH    MADAGASCAR ORIGIN     OF    RECENT     DISPUTE     WITH 

MADAGASCAR A      HUMILIATING     EXHIBITION NATIVE     CRt'ELTY 

SHIPS    TO    MADAGASCAR DR.     TAVAL LOSS     TO    BRITISH     GOVERN- 
MENT  ROMAN    CATHOLICS  IN  MAURITIUS — CHURCH    OF    ENGLAND 

OTHER  DENOMINATIONS INFLUENZA. 

Aftkr  a  pleasant  passage  of  eight  days  on  board  the 
Hannah,  I  reached  Cape  To\vii  in  April,  1850.  The 
distance  is  about  800  miles.  I  purposed  remaining  there 
about  a  month,  before  proceeding  to  Mauritius,  within 
which  time  I  indulged  the  hope  the  Eev.  W.  Thompson 
would  arrive  from  England,  and  enter  on  his  pastoral 
duties  at  Union  Chapel,  and  his  ofl&ce  as  agent  for  our 
Society.  During  my  stay,  I  had  an  inten-iew  with  his  Ex- 
cellency two  or  three  times.  I  waited  on  him,  in  the  first 
instance,  that  I  might  bring  personally  under  his  notice 
the  case  of  the  Griquas  and  the  Basutos,  as  already  de- 
scribed in  this  volume.  I  found  him  rather  more  formal 
and  resei'\'ed  than  usual ;  which,  however,  could  not  in  the 
least  alter  my  views  as  to  \he  facts  under  review. 

He  expressed  his  wish  that  I  had  communicated  my 


INTERVIEW   WITH    THE    GOVERNOR.  367 

views  to  him,  respecting  any  matters  that  might  have  oc- 
curred to  me  requiring  observation.  And  I  found,  on 
asking  the  question,  that  he  w^as  alluding  to  a  letter  which 
I  had  written  to  Dr.  Campbell,  and  which  appeared  in  the 
Banner,  and  part  of  which  had  been  extracted  and  com- 
mented upon  in  the  Graham's  Town  Journal,  which 
paper  was  then  lying  before  his  Excellency.  He  read  to 
me  the  passage  to  which  his  attention  was  directed,  and  in 
which  I  had  remarked  that,  "  as  like  causes  produce  like 
effects,  there  was  ground  to  apprehend  that  the  present 
system  would  work  out  injurious  results  ;"  the  meaning  of 
which,  of  course,  was,  that  the  existing  system  of  coercion 
would  bring  about  another  Kaffir  war. 

Our  conversation  took  place  in  June  (1850);  the  j^resent 
disastrous  Kaffir  war  broke  out  in  December  of  that  year. 
I  think  I  am  entitled  now,  in  June  1851,  to  ask  whether 
my  views,  intimations,  and  suruiisings,  were  correct,  or 
founded  in  error  ? 

I  had  no  hesitation  in  acknowledging  the  letter  to  be  my 
communication.  His  Excellency  thought,  "  with  all  due 
respect  for  me  and  my  office,  that  these  were  matters  on 
which  I  was  not  competent  to  form  an  opinion."  I  assured 
him,  that  as  these  remarks  related  to  matters  open  to 
every  one's  observation,  it  required  only  common  sense  to 
judge  of  them,  and  we  thought,  though  Missionaries,  we 
possessed  that  common  sense  as  well  as  others.  I  added, 
that  what  I  had  written  referred  to  matters  of  fact,  and  on 
which  I  could  speak  from  personal  observation.  I  re- 
ferred to  the  dissatisfaction  felt  by  the  Border  tribes, — 
Griquas  and  Basutos — and  not  to  the  case  of  tlie  Kaffirs 
alone.  I  told  him  I  had  seen  and  conversed  with  the  chief 
Moshesh,  Adam  Kok,  and  othe]-s  ;  that  Moshesh  had  been 
deprived  of  a  large  portion  of  his  territory,  and  the  Griquas 
were  forced  to  surrender  theirs.  He  expressed  "  his  sur- 
prise that  Moslicsh  should  be  dissatisfied.  It  was  the  first 
time  he  had  heard  of  it."  And  as  to  Adam  Kok,  he,  the 
Governor,  "had  been  his  best  friend ;  that,  but  for  his  inter- 


368  INQUIRY   WANTED. 

ference,  the  Boers,  who  emigrated  from  the  colony,  would 
have  absorbed  his  country,  and  reduced  him  and  his 
people  to  slavery, — a  thing  which  it  appeared  to  him  they 
had  aimed  at,  and  he  feared,  in  some  cases,  still  aimed  at." 
I  explained  to  him,  that  while  I  thought  the  general 
measure  of  the  "  sovereignty  "  and  the  supremacy  of  British 
rule  had  been  a  blessing  to  the  country  and  the  native 
tribes,  by  preventing  their  mutual  destruction,  they  were 
yet  attended  with  much  injustice  towards  individuals,  and 
involved  the  sacrifice  of  many  rights,  which  he  himself 
would  not  have  committed,  had  he  taken  more  time  in 
forming  his  decisions. 

He  thanked  me  for  having  called  and  held  this  conver- 
sation with  him.  We  shook  hands  and  parted.  How- 
ever, I  thought  it  right  to  communicate  my  views  to  Earl 
Grey,  Secretary  of  State  for  the  Colonies  ;  my  letters  to 
his  Lordship  have  already  appeared  in  a  former  part  of 
this  volume. 

The  great  thing  which  I  then  believed  and  still  believe 
to  be  essential,  is — strict,  impartial,  and  patient  inquiry — 
inquiry  from  home,  instituted  by  her  Majesty  at  the  recom- 
mendation of  Parliament ;  inquiiy  conducted  on  the  spot, 
and  where  the  aggrieved  parties  might  be  fully  heard  in 
stating  their  ovph  case.  Such  inquiry,  I  apprehend,  should 
embrace  all  the  facts  relating  to  Kaffir  affairs  with  the 
colony  for  the  last  seventeen  years  at  least ;  the  causes  of 
the  failure  of  the  "  Glenelg"  system — if  a  failure  there  were, 
as  affirmed  by  some  ;  the  expenses  and  management  of 
the  war  of  1846-7,  under  Sir  P.  Maitland,  Sk  H.  Pottinger, 
and  Sir  H.  Smith ;  the  dissatisfaction  existing  among 
Kaffirs,  Tambookies,  Griquas,  Basutos,  and  Hottentots  ; 
and  how  individual  cases  of  hardship  may  be  rectified,  so 
that  the  friendship  of  the  native  tribes  may  be  secured, 
instead  of  their  sullen  hatred. 

Many  things,  also,  in  the  "  sovereignty,"  appeared  to 
me  to  merit  investigation,  especially  with  the  view  of  pre- 
venting the  recurrence  of  similar  proceedings,  such  as  the 


MURDER  OF  A  BAROLONG.  369 

suppression  of  alleged  cases  of  mm-der  ;  the  mode  of  trial 
there  for  grave  offences  ;  the  use  of  commandoes ;  the  dis 
tribution  of  children  and  others  for  forced  sei^vice,  by 
British  authorities,  among  the  farmers  ;  and  the  treatment 
of  the  aborigines  by  the  Boers  as  they  advance  into  the 
interior. 

With  regard  to  cases  of  alleged  murder,  I  have  already 
adverted  to  one.  I  may  just  allude  to  another,  as  related 
to  me  : — A  farmer,  angry  with  a  native  (a  Bai'olong),  took 
up  a  musket,  and  intended,  as  the  man  believed,  to  shoot 
him.  The  Barolong,  being  a  stout  man,  wrested  it  from 
him.  The  farmer  begged  to  have  it  returned.  The  man 
refused  to  deliver  it  up,  on  the  plea  that  the  farmer  would 
shoot  him.  This  he  promised  solemnly  not  to  do,  assuring 
him  that  his  anger  was  now  appeased,  and  he  would  do 
him  no  injury.  After  some  little  delay,  the  Barolong  gave 
it  up.  The  farmer  took  it,  retired  a  few  paces,  turned 
round,  and  shot  the  man  dead  on  the  spot.  Then,  fearing 
it  might  turn  against  him,  if  reported,  he  fled,  and  con- 
cealed himself  for  some  time.  Meantime,  he  sent  one  of 
his  servants,  a  Bushman  lad,  to  Major  Warden,  to  make  an 
j  affidavit  that  the  gun  had  gone  off  accidentally,  and  killed 
j  the  man !  This  was  reported,  I  was  informed,  to  the 
Attorney- General,  whose  ojiinion  was,  that  there  was  no 
j  case  against  the  farmer,  and  that  he  might  return  to  his 
farm.  He  did  so,  and  no  further  notice  of  the  case  has 
been  taken,  nor  investigation  ever  made.  The  Barolong's 
brother  was  a  spectator,  and  could  have  given  evidence,  as 
well  as  others  also. 

Before  leaving  the  colony,  I  waited  upon  his  Excellency 
the  Governor,  and  I  did  so,  partly  that  I  might  have  the 
pleasure  of  introducing  the  Eev.  Mr.  Thompson,  as  the 
Society's  agent  in  Cape  Town,  on  the  retirement  of  Dr. 
Philip  from  office,  and  partly  that  I  might  bring  before 
Sir  H.  Smith  the  case  of  the  Gonah  Hottentots,  as  de- 
scribed in  my  chapter  on  the  Kat  River  Settlement. 

Perhaps  it  would  be  scarcely  fair  to  pass  over,  without 

BB 


370  GOVEKKSIENT  GRANTS. 

some  notice,  the  aflfair  of  Government  grants  for  education. 
I  had  several  interviews  with  Dr.  Innes,  Superintendent  of 
Education  in  the  Government  Schools,  and  through  whom 
the  usual  grants  from  the  Government  had  heen  made  to 
some  schools  in  connexion  with  our  Missions. 

The  total  amount  granted  from  the  Colonial  Treasury 
for  these  pm-poses  of  education  has  heen  about  £2000  per 
annum,  of  which  about  £300  had  been  paid  in  connexion 
with  schools  more  or  less  identified  with  our  Missions. 
As  this  was  found  not  to  be  in  harmony  with  the  views 
entertained  b}'  many  of  the  Society's  friends  in  England, 
the  amount  has  been  wholly  declined  for  our  schools, 
in  future.  Yet,  comparatively  small  as  the  sum  is,  I  did 
not  feel  authorized  to  draw  on  the  Society  for  it,  in  the 
present  state  of  its  funds,  and  with  positive  instructions 
from  the  Directors  to  reduce  the  expenditure  of  the  South 
African  Missions  £2000a-year  below  the  average  of  the  last 
ten  years.  And  yet  it  would  be  a  hard  case,  a  cruel  case, 
to  deprive  the  people  of  the  means  of  educating  their 
children.  They  are  not  able  themselves  to  bear  the  ex- 
pense of  it,  and  some  parties  must  afford  them  aid,  or  they 
"will  perish  for  lack  of  knowledge."  I  think,  in  the  final 
arrangement,  however,  of  this  matter,  neither  the  Directors 
nor  their  constituents  are  compromised.  Government  will 
still  make  grants  to  schools  ;  but  no  longer  as  Mission 
Schools  at  all.  They  will  be  district  schools,  having  their 
own  local  committees  and  treasurers,  and  providing  for 
their  own  expenditure. 


I  left  the  Cape  for  Mauritius  on  13th  July,  on  board  the 
"  Susan  Crisp,"  Captain  Holds  worth.  Mr.  Peter  Le  Brun 
was  my  fellow-passenger.  Nothing  of  remarkable  interest 
occurred  during  the  passage,  and  we  came  in  sight  of  land 
early  on  the  Sunday  morning  of  4th  August ;  but  it  was 
not  till  next  morning  that  we  came  to  anchor  in  Port 
Louis.     By  the  aid  of  the  telescope  we  could  see  Mr.  Le 


ARRIVAL  AT  PORT  LOUIS.  371 

Bi'un  standing  on  the  verandah  of  his  house  and  looking 
at  us.  I  had  apprised  him,  by  a  former  vessel,  that  I  was 
coming  by  the  "  Susan  Crisp,"  and  he  immediately  recog- 
nised our  signals.  He  presently  came  off  in  a  boat,  and 
James  Andrianisa,  one  of  the  Malagasy  refugees,  accom- 
panied him.  As  soon  as  the  medical  officer  came  on  board 
and  found  all  well — no  disease  on  board,  no  occasion  for 
quarantine  —  we  quickly  landed,  and  in  a  few  minutes 
I  found  myself  comfortably  housed  and  kindly  welcomed 
by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Le  Brun  in  their  o\mi  residence,  where 
they  had  prepared  two  rooms  for  my  reception  and  resi- 
dence during  my  visit. 

David  Ratsarahomba,  another  of  our  INIalagasy  refugees, 
and  a  truly  excellent  young  man,  known  to  many  of  our 
friends  in  England,  and  beloved  wherever  known,  had  died 
on  the  preceding  Friday,  only  two  days  before  my  arrival 
in  Mauritius.  He  had  been  anxiously  awaiting  me  for 
some  time,  and  had  written  to  me  to  urge  my  coming  to 
Port  Louis,  but  was  summoned  to  his  rest  without  the  gi'a- 
tification  being  afforded  us  of  meeting  each  other  again 
on  earth.  I  felt  it  to  be  a  disappointment.  I  should  have 
been  glad  to  have  had  the  opportunity  of  conversing  with 
him  again.  He  could  have  assisted  me  much  in  drawing 
up  some  outline  of  events  in  the  History  of  ]\Iadagacar 
and  its  persecutions,  subsequent  to  the  period  at  which 
tlie  history  closes,  in  the  volume  already  published.  His 
removal  is  a  loss  to  the  natives,  his  countrymen  in  the 
colony,  for  whose  welfare  he  was  diligently  laborious. 

In  the  evening  I  accompanied  Mr.  Le  Brun  and  his 
family  to  chapel.  It  was  the  Missionary  prayer-meeting, 
and  was  excellently  attended.  The  chapel  I  liked  much. 
I  had  been  to  see  it  with  Mr.  P.  Le  Binin  during  the  after- 
noon.  It  is  a  substantial  building,  and  well  situated,  both 
for  quietness  and  for  the  convenience  of  the  population 
attending.  It  is  inclosed  with  stone  walls,  and  has  a 
small  piece  of  ground  attached  to  it,  planted  with  shrubs 
and  trees,  at  once  ornamental,  and,  by  their  agreeable  shade, 


372  CONGREGATION  AT  PORT  LOUIS. 

highly  useful  m  the  hot  season.  The  chapel  is  neatly 
pewed,  and  can  accommodate  about  500  persons.  There 
are  not  at  present  any  galleries.  I  understood,  however, 
that  the  chapel  was  often  so  crowded  on  a  Sunday  morn- 
ing, that  it  Avas  in  contemplation  to  erect  galleries,  as  soon 
as  sufficient  resources  could  be  obtained.  The  Monday 
evening  congregation  was  to  me  a  very  gratifying  sight. 
Mr.  Le  Brun,  jun.,  read  a  portion  of  scripture,  and  offered 
prayer  in  French.  His  father  then  gave  a  brief  address 
from  the  72nd  Psalm,  and  introduced  me  as  an  old  friend, 
formerly  Missionary  in  Madagascar.  Many  Malagasy  were 
present  on  the  occasion.  Mr.  Le  Brun  requested  me  to 
address  them.  I  felt  a  little  uncertain  whether,  as  I  had 
not  delivered  any  discourse  in  the  Malagasy  language  for 
several  years,  I  should  be  able  to  command  more  than  a 
few  words.  I  scarcely  thought  my  memory  would  seiTe 
me  for  the  occasion.  However,  I  succeeded  better  than  I 
expected,  and  spoke  for  some  few  minutes,  assuring  them 
of  the  pleasure  I  felt  in  meeting  so  many  of  them  as  natives 
of  Madagascar,  and  in  meeting  them  assembled  for  prayer, 
and  in  so  convenient  and  excellent  a  place  of  worship.  At 
the  same  time,  I  assured  them  I  felt  grief  in  the  death  of 
EafaravaAy,  and  now  of  David  Eatsai'ahomba,  whom  I  had 
expected  to  meet,  but  who  was  just  removed  from  them 
before  I  reached  the  island,  and  also  in  the  painful  circum- 
stance that  Madagascar  was  still  closed  against  all  our 
efforts. 

I  find  that  those  who  were  formerly  slaves  in  the  island 
are  not  now  engaged  in  the  manufactm'e  of  sugar.  They 
require,  it  is  affirmed,  far  higher  wages  than  the  planters 
can  afford  to  give,  so  as  to  secure  remunerating  prices. 
Of  course  a  very  large  proportion  of  those  who  were  slaves 
have  died  off  during  the  fifteen  yeai's  that  have  elapsed 
since  the  emancipation.  The  rest  are  either  domestic 
servants  or  live  on  small  plots  of  land,  which  they  hire, 
where  they  raise  and  sell  fruit  and  vegetables.  The  sugar 
is  now  manufactured  chiefly  by  the  labours  of  the  immi- 


COOLIES  FROM  INDIA.  373 

grant  Indians,  whose  wages  are  much  lower  than  those 
demanded  by  the  Creoles.  The  latter  ask  five  dollars  per 
month,  which  is  equal  to  Ss.  per  week ;  the  Coolies  from 
India  do  not  receive  more  than  half  that  sum.  They  con- 
sequently expend  less  on  food.  In  fact,  their  nourishment 
is  extremely  meagre — in  many  cases  it  is  quite  insufficient 
for  the  demands  of  nature  ;  and  hence  it  has  been  thought, 
that  the  rapid  mortality  which  takes  place  among  them, 
may  be  accounted  for.  It  would  be  Avell  that  statistical 
information  on  these  points  should  be  obtained  and  pub- 
lished. There  had  been  a  large  recent  arrival  of  labourers 
from  India.  The  number  of  Coolies  in  the  island  is  said 
to  be  60,000.  Many  of  them  are  so  well  satisfied  with  their 
work  and  wages  in  Mauritius,  that  they  return  a  second, 
and  even  a  third  time  for  employment.  They  are  extremely 
frugal ;  they  save  their  earnings,  and  carry  home  the  amount 
to  India.  There  is  also  a  large  number  of  Chinese  residing 
here  as  artisans  and  petty  shof)keepers.  They  occupy 
almost  one  entire  side  of  the  Bazaar,  or  public  market, 
where  they  sell  salt  provisions.  A  Chinese  temple  has 
been  erected  here. 

I  waited  on  the  Governor.  Sir  William  Anderson,  at 
Reduit.  I  found  him  at  home,  and  entered  into  conver- 
sation with  him  at  considerable  length  on  the  subject  of 
Madagascar.  There  is  not  any  plan  or  arrangement  at 
present  on  foot  that  awakens  the  hope  of  friendly  i-elations 
being  again  established  with  the  Government  of  that  coun- 
try. He  informed  me  that  he  had  been  in  correspondence 
with  the  Malagasy  Government,  and  had  expressed  the  wish 
to  be  again  on  friendly  terms,  for  the  purpose  of  trade  ; 
and  the  answer  which  he  had  received  was  couched  in 
friendly  terms — more  so,  in  the  opinion  of  Captain  Dick, 
late  secretary,  than  the  Malagasy  communications  had  been 
for  some  time  past.  The  Governor  had  suggested  to  Lord 
Grey  the  propriety  of  sending  a  present  to  the  Queen  and 
her  officers,  as  one  means  of  resuming  friendly  relations. 
His  Lordship  had  not  approved  of  the  plan,  but  thought 


374  MALAGASY  IX  IIAUEITIUS. 

that  ere  long  the  Malagasy  themselves,  feeling  the  want  of 
trade  and  commerce  as  the  only  means  of  improving  their 
resources,  would  he  induced  to  seek,  of  their  own  accord, 
some  friendly  relations  with  the  British  Government.  This 
is  a  mistake,  arising  from  the  want  of  a  more  accurate 
knowledge  of  Madagascar.  The  Queen  obtains  all  she 
wishes,  by  pressure  on  the  people.  The  officers  obtain 
booty,  and  a  share  in  all  confiscations  :  the  people  become 
impoverished,  abject,  and  dispirited.  This  is  no  cause  of 
anxious  concern  or  generous  regret  with  the  native  Govern- 
ment, whose  policy  is  selfishness. 

There  are  several  natives  of  Madagascar  residing  in 
Port  Louis.  They  have  for  the  most  part  lived  in  Mau- 
ritius many  yeai's,  and  were  formerly  in  slavery.  I  dis- 
covered this  while  inquiring  of  them  if  they  had  families. 
There  were  seven  or  eight  women  present.  They  replied, 
that  they  had  not;  that  they  had  had  families  formerly, 
but  their  children  were  taken  from  them  when  young,  and 
distributed  or  sold  they  knew  not  whither ;  in  fact,  they 
had  no  means  of  knowing  whether  they  were  still  living  or 
not  I — one  of  the  horrid,  inhuman  results  of  slavery.  Many 
of  these  people  are  members  of  Mr.  Le  Brnn's  congre- 
gation ;  some  of  them  are  communicants.  They  retain 
the  native  custom  of  bringing  a  present  on  coming  to  pay 
a  stranger  a  visit.  On  calling  to  salute  me  on  my  arrival, 
they  brought  pigeons,  fruit,  and  eggs. 

As  soon  as  I  conveniently  could,  I  went  to  visit  our 
Mission  station,  Moka,  in  the  ^iMoka  district.  That  name 
was  originally  given  to  it  from  the  excellence  of  the  coffee 
gi'own  there,  as  resembling  that  sold  in  England  from 
"  Mocha."  The  actual  distance  of  the  village  from  Port  Louis 
is  not  more  than  five  or  six  miles  across  the  mountains  ; 
but  it  is  not  less  than  twelve  romid  the  mountain  of  La 
Pouce,  at  the  back  of  which  it  is  situated.  The  walk  over 
the  hill  is  difficult  and  fatiguing,  and  I  was  unwilling  to 
venture  it.  ^Ir.  J.  J.  Le  Binin  is  stationed  there.  The 
spot  on  which  the  Mission  premises  ai'e  placed  contains 


MISSION  STATION  AT  MOKA.  375 

about  eighteen  English  acres,  bounded  at  one  extremity 
by  a  valuable  stream  or  small  river,  La  Baptiste,  so  called, 
it  is  said,  from  the  number  of  persons  who  have  been  acci- 
dentally drowned  in  it,  when  crossing  it  after  heavy  rains, 
and  when,  of  course,  it  is  considerably  swollen.  The  late 
Eev.  D.  Johns  purchased  the  property  on  behalf  of  the 
London  Missionary  Society,  as  an  asylum  for  the  Mada- 
gascar refugees.  At  present  the  house,  used  as  a  chapel, 
was  the  dwelling-house  occupied  by  Eafaravavy,  and  the 
Missionary  dwelling-house  was  occupied  by  Mrs.  Johns. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  J.  J.  Le  Brun  now  reside  there.  It  is  hum- 
ble, inexpensive,  and  not  very  durable.  The  locality  is 
excellent.  The  place  is  salubrious,  and  well  supplied  with 
water.  It  was,  when  purchased,  covered  with  wood  ;  but  it 
is  now  cleared,  and  occupied  with  gardens  and  plantation- 
grounds.  I  found  a  new  chapel  in  course  of  erection.  It 
is  built  of  stone,  and  will  accommodate  about  300  persons. 
The  stone  is  found  on  the  property,  and  has  been  -wrought 
on  the  spot  by  masons,  under  the  direction  of  a  master 
mason,  who  was  originally  a  native  of  Madagascar.  He 
also  superintends  the  caiiDsnters'  and  builders'  work.  It 
will  cost  altogether£1000.  The  people  themselves,  although 
poor,  have  contributed  liberally,  and  they  have  been  aided 
by  the  contributions  of  many,  including  £100  from  the 
London  Missionary  Society.  It  may  be,  that  about  £500 
would  have  sufficed  to  build  a  cliapel  oi  wood;  but  this  is 
deemed  most  undesirable,  if  not  indeed  a  waste  of  pro 
perty,  partly  on  account  of  the  destructive  ant,  called  the 
carrier,  and  partly  on  account  of  the  destructive  hurricanes, 
to  which  all  buildings  in  the  island  are  exposed. 

Mr.  Le  Brun,  jun.  mentioned,  in  the  course  of  conver- 
sation, a  very  satisfactory  commendation  of  the  people, 
chiefly  Malagasy,  under  his  care  at  Moka.  Some  of  them, 
when  lately  appearing  before  the  superintendent  of  police 
in  that  quarter,  were  addi'essed  by  that  officer  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner  : — "  Oh  !  you  come  from  Mr,  Le  Brun  ? 
Very  good  ;  then  I  know  it  is  all  right.     I  know  your  busi- 


376  SUNDAY  AT  MOKA. 

ness — it  is  about  marriage,  or  the  registration  of  the  birth 
of  your  children.  Wlien  others  come,  it  is  usually  about 
robbery  or  some  offence ;  when  you  come,  the  affairs  are 
easily  arranged." 

I  ^yas  much  pleased  with  all  I  saw  here  of  Andrianado 
and  his  wife,  natives  of  Madagascar.  They  appear  to  sus- 
tain fully  the  character  I  had  heard  of  them  as  intelligent, 
consistent,  and  earnest  Christians.  He  is  named  David 
Johns  Andrianado,  after  our  late  devoted  Missionaiy.  His 
wife  is  called  Mary,  and  their  daughter  Mary  Anne.  They 
have  left  two  children  in  Madagascar,  about  whose  welfare 
they  are  ver}'  anxious.  He  is  desii'ous  of  going  over  to 
Madagascar,  to  make  inquiry  as  to  the  state  of  the  Chris- 
tians, and  thinks  he  can  manage  to  do  so  without  detection. 
Of  course  it  incurs  some  risk ;  and  yet,  if  he  could  succeed 
in  doing  it,  it  might  be  worth  while  to  run  that  risk.  They 
live  here  in  a  neat  and  small  cottage  on  the  ]Moka  pro- 
perty. He  is  allowed  a  salaiy  as  a  native  teacher,  of  about 
£'2  lOs.  per  month, — rather  less  than  is  necessary. 

I  passed  the  Sunday  at  Moka  in  a  manner  which  was 
to  me  replete  with  interest.  \Ye  had  a  congregation  in 
the  morning  of  about  130  persons,  principally  adults,  to 
whom  I  spoke  in  Malagasy.  Simeon,  who  was  formerly  in 
England  as  one  of  the  refugees,  offered  an  excellent  and 
appropriate  jirayer  at  the  commencement  of  the  seiwice. 
In  the  afternoon  I  walked  over  to  "  Nouvelle  Decouverte," 
where  I  found  a  neat  chapel,  built  by  the  people  them- 
selves, and  a  congregation  assembled,  amounting  to  nearly 
100,  most  of  them  being  natives  of  Madagascar,  though  not 
recently  arrived  in  this  island.  After  service  I  walked  back 
again  to  IMoka.  The  distance  is  about  seven  miles.  Nearly 
twenty  of  the  people  accompanied  Mr.  Le  Brun  and  my- 
self there  and  back  again.  The  good  folk  kindly  sent  a 
small  donkey- cart  to  meet  us  on  the  way,  and  we  availed 
ourselves  of  its  accommodation  for  a  short  distance  ;  but 
the  roads  were  in  a  sad  condition  after  the  late  rains,  and 
the  animal  was  scarcely,  as  we  thought,  equal  to  his  task  ; 


MALAGASY  CHRrSTIANS  IN  MAURITIUS.  377 

SO  we  preferred  descending  from  our  carriage  and  making 
the  best  of  om'  way  to  our  journey's  end,  as  Paul  did  on 
setting  out  from  Mitylene  to  Assos,  "  on  foot." 

It  is  just  now  proposed  to  carry  a  tunnel  through  the 
mountain  of  La  Pouce,  at  an  estimated  expense  of  £60,000. 
This  would  place  the  district  of  Moka  in  the  vicinity  of 
Port  Louis,  and  render  the  property  of  that  district  of 
greatly  augmented  value.  The  population  also  would  no 
doubt  be  much  increased.  The  roads  of  the  island  are 
excellent.  They  are  macadamised,  and,  as  the  whole  of 
the  material  is  basalt,  they  are  hard,  and  require  compa- 
ratively little  repair.  Altogether  there  are  185  miles  of 
road  in  the  island. 

I  had  a  long  conversation  with  Paoly,  a  native  of  Mada- 
gascar, from  Manahary,  north  of  Tamatave,  aBetsimisaraka, 
employed  as  an  evangelist  among  his  countrymen.  He 
appears  an  excellent  man.  He  is  a  mason  by  trade,  and 
in  part  supports  himself  by  his  labour.  He  receives  also 
£1  a  month  from  our  Society.  He  speaks  of  there  being 
about  fifty  natives  of  Madagascar,  resident  in  Port  Louis, 
who  are,  so  far  as  he  can  judge,  genuine  Christians. 
There  are  others  also  at  Moka,  and  other  parts  of  the 
island  ;  but  he  thinks  there  are  scarcely  100  altogether 
who  can  read  xveil.  He  estimates  about  800  or  400  who 
connect  themselves  with  the  Christian  congregations.  Veiy 
many  more  would  attend  if  they  had  places  to  meet  in, 
contiguous  to  their  residence. 

There  appeared  to  me  no  hope  for  Madagascar,  but  in  the 
succession  to  the  crown.  The  young  prince,  advancing  to 
supreme  power,  would  no  doubt  alter  the  whole  policy,  and 
he  may  possibly  attain  that  power,  ere  long,  by  the  queen 
resigning  her  authority  into  his  hands,  or  by  her  removal 
by  death,  in  which  event  he  would  succeed  as  a  matter  of 
course.  My  impression  is,  tliat  the  queen  would  prefer  to 
see  him  established  on  the  throne  herself,  and  may,  there- 
fore, ere  long,  resign  in  his  favour ;  and  by  this  means  may 
be  terminated  the  disagreement  between  the  Malagasy  and 


878  PLAIN  WILHELMS. 

the  British  Government,  and  the  affair  of  Captain  Kelly 
at  Tamatave  pass  over.* 

According  to  a  previous  arrangement,  Mons.  Cheron 
called  for  me  early  the  next  Sunday  morning,  when  I 
accompanied  him,  with  Mr.  J.  J.  Le  Brun  of  Moka,  to  the 
house  of  a  friend  at  Petite  Eiviere,  on  whose  premises  a 
temporaiy  chapel  has  heen  erected,  and  where  I  found  a 
good  congregation  assemhling.  Many  of  these  heing 
Creoles,  i.e.  born  in  the  island,  and  all  of  them  being  fami- 
liar with  French,  it  seemed  best  that  Mr.  Le  Brun  should 
take  the  principal  part  of  the  service  in  that  language.  I 
followed  with  an  address  in  IMalagasy,  the  majority  of  those 
present  knowing  the  language.  They  retain  a  knowledge 
of  their  language  and  use  it  among  themselves,  and  are 
pleased  to  be  addressed  in  it.  After  sendee,  we  set  out 
for  Mons.  Cheron's  residence,  and  held  service  there.  A 
still  larger  number  was  present  in  the  afternoon.  ]\Ir.  Le 
Brun  preached,  and  I  added  an  address  at  the  close. 
M.  Cheron  intimated  to  them  that  I  would  call  and  pay 
them  a  visit  next  morning.  They  expressed  themselves 
much  pleased,  and  invited  me  to  come.  I  remained,  and 
passed  the  rest  of  the  day  with  Mons.  Cheron  and  his 
numerous  family.  Death  had,  however,  recently  made 
many  inroads  on  his  family  circle.  He  had  lost  sixteen 
relatives  during  one  year,  and  of  that  number  nine  died  in 
the  course  of  one  month  ! — a  most  unusual  mortality  in  the 
connexions  of  one  family. 

Mons.  Cheron  had  been  making  some  highly  useful  and 
liberal  arrangements  for  the  spiritual  Avelfare  of  his  neigh- 
bom-hood,  and  w'as  anxious  to  obtain  a  IMissionary  from 
our  Society  for  "Plain  Wilhelms;"  and  his  desire  should, 
I  think,  be  complied  with,  if  possible.  He  offers  a  plot  of 
ground,  and  a  chapel  and  dwelling-house,  which  he  will 
make  over  to  the  Society.  He  offers  to  pay  half  the 
amount  of  the  passage-money,  whether  for  a  single  or  a 
married  Missionary,  and  he  guarantees,  or  rather  gives,  £5 
*  See  forwai'd — page  383. 


MISSIONARY  REQUIRED.  379 

per  month  for  four  years  certain.  He  wishes  him  to  open 
a  school  for  the  children  of  the  neighbourhood.  All  this 
he  was  prepared  to  commit  to  writing,  and  I  promised  him 
that  I  would  endeavour  to  promote  the  plan  so  far  as  I 
could,  on  reaching  England.  The  Missionary  must  be, 
of  course,  familiar  with  the  French  language. 

I  had  the  pleasure  of  laying  the  foundation-stone  of  the 
new  chapel.  About  100  persons  assembled  on  the  occasion. 
Many  more  would  have  attended,  but  that  an  epidemic  pre- 
vailed extensively  through  the  island.  Mons.  Cheron,  on 
behalf  of  himself  and  friends,  read  an  address  to  me  with 
the  view  of  urging  on  me  their  need  of  a  pastor,  and  re- 
questing me  to  endeavour  to  procure  one  for  them,  to  be 
sent  out  by  our  Society.  I  delivered  a  short  address  and 
then  laid  the  stone,  after  which,  Mr.  J.  J.  Le  Brun  ad- 
dressed the  company  present,  and  Mr.  P.  Le  Brun  offered 
prayer,  and  the  service  closed  iwith  singing  the  doxology. 
The  dimensions  of  the  chapel  are  50  feet  by  24  feet.  It  is 
built  of  stone,  and  will  cost  about  £800,  including  a  neat 
dwelling-house  for  the  Missionary.  It  is  to  be  called 
"  Freeman  Chapel." 

I  accompanied  M.  Cheron  to  visit  a  remarkable  geolo- 
gical locality,  called  "  Trou  au  cerf,"  or  "Bassin,"  in  his 
district,  distant  about  six  miles  from  his  residence.  It  is 
the  crater  of  an  ancient  volcano,  about  half  a  mile  across 
the  diameter  of  the  upper  rim,  tapering  down  in  a  funnel 
shape,  some  250  feet,  and  then  having  a  level  bottom  with 
a  small  pool  of  water,  from  rains  lately  fallen,  occupying 
the  centre.  The  whole  of  the  interior  of  the  sides  of  the 
crater  is  covered  with  trees  and  shrubs.  The  exterior 
sides  of  the  hill  are  covered  also  with  vegetation,  among 
which  there  is  a  large  native  population.  Many  of  the 
inhabitants  there  are  Malagasy,  and  it  was  to  them  I  had 
promised  that  I  would  come  and  pay  a  visit.  I  saw  them, 
conversed  a  little  with  them,  and  much  Avished  they  had 
some  teacher  settled  among  them.  None  of  them  can 
read.     I  thought  a  Malagasy  teacher  might  be  located  here, 


880         LETTER  FROM  QUEEN'  OF  MADAGASCAR. 

and  render  much  valuable  service  to  the  Missionary  who 
may  settle  at  Plain  Wilhelms.  We  returned  in  the  afternoon 
to  M.  Cheron's,  where  I  remained  for  the  rest  of  the  evening. 

No  information  had  been  lately  received  from  Madagas- 
car, either  as  to  its  political  state  or  the  condition  of  the 
Christians.  The  merchants  of  Port  Louis  had  lately  sent 
a  petition  to  the  Queen,  praying  that  trade  might  be  re- 
opened. Captain  Gevint  had  taken  the  petition  to  Taraa- 
tave,  to  be  conveyed  from  thence  to  the  capital,  and  was 
going  down  again  in  the  course  of  a  month,  with  the  hope 
of  finding  a  reply  from  the  Queen  awaiting  him. 

That  reply  arrived  while  I  was  yet  in  Port  Louis,  and 
the  following  is  a  translation  of  it : — 

"Antananarivo,  18  Alakaosy,  1850. 
"  To  Mr.  Bell  and  J.  Gevint  and  companions,  491,  whose 
signatures  are  attached  to  their  letter, 

"This  is  what  I  annoiince  to  you.  I  received  your  letter  to  the 
Queen  of  Madagascar,  on  the  subject  of  opening  the  trade,  and  con- 
vejTJig  the  '  hasma'  of  three  dollars,  which  you  term  an  apology, 
according  to  the  cvistom  of  the  country.  I  have  heard  the  whole  of 
the  communication  made  by  your  letter,  and  I  have  conveyed  to  the 
Queen  of  Madagascar  the  contents  of  your  letter.  And  I  inform 
you  explicitly,  that  it  was  not  Ave  who  fired  the  first  shot ;  but 
Romaia  Defosses,  and  !Mr.  Kelly  and  their  companions,  in  tliree 
ships  of  war,  fired  first  upon  us  to  attack  our  country  ;  that  excited 
our  anger  exceedingly,  namely,  the  attack  upon  oiir  country. 

"Consider,  therefore,  the  nature  of  friendship,  and  do  not  be 
proud  in  reference  to  the  friendship,  for  friendship  that  is  real  is 
what  I  am  desirous  of.  Therefore,  make  R.  Defosses  and  Mr.  Kelly, 
and  their  companions  in  the  three  ships  of  war,  who  first  fired  upon 
us,  to  attack  oiu-  country,  pay  the  fines.  The  fine  to  be  paid  by 
11.  Defosses  and  Mr.  Kelly,  is  700  dollars  each,  and  theu-  com- 
panions in  the  three  ships,  must  pay  70  dollars  each  person,  for  they 
first  fired  on  us,  to  attack  our  country,  and  that  was  the  cause  of 
stopping  the  trade. 

"However,  we  do  not  impose  fines  on  those  who  have  not  fought 
against  us,  but  only  on  those  who  attacked  us.  Therefore,  if  it  be 
your  wish  that  the  trade  should  be  open,  cause  to  be  paid  those 
fines,  but  whoever  pays  the  money  must  say,  '  It  is  the  fine  paid  by 
Defosses,  ilr.  Kelly,  and  their  companions.'     Then  we  shall  accept 


TRADE  PARTIALLY  RE-OPEXED.  381 

the  fine  that  is  paid,  and  the  trade  shall  be  open.     And  if  you  do 
not  say  that  it  is  the  fine  from  you,  then  the  trade  will  not  be  open. 

"  And  if  you  say  that  the  payment  for  goods  purchased  should 
open  the  commerce,  we  will  not  accept  it:  even  if  ten  millions  of 
dollars  are  offered,  the  trade  will  not  be  opened  ;  but  if  you  pay  it  as 
the  fine  fi-om  them,  then  we  shall  accept  it. 

"And  this  further  I  tell  you  concerning  the  hasina,  the  three 
dollars  sent  by  you,  saying,  '  It  is  the  custom  of  your  ancestors,  with 
persons  who  wish  to  apologize  to  the  Sovereign  of  INIadagascar' — The 
three  dollars  are  retiu-ned  to  Gevint,  for  the  law  of  the  country  of 
the  Queen,  and  of  her  ancestors  is,  first  to  pay  the  fine,  and  then 
present  the  hasina.  That  is  the  established  law  of  the  country  of 
our  Sovereign, 

"  Salutations  to  j'ou,  saith 

"  RAINIKIETAKA, 
"  12  Hon.  Marshal,  Officer  of  the  Palace,  Principal  Secretary, 
"  and  RAZAFILAHY, 
"  Chief  Merchant  at  Tananarivo." 

It  further  appeared,  that  Mons.  De  Lastelle,  connected 
with  the  mercantile  house  of  Messrs.  Eantony  and  Co., 
of  Bourhon,  but  for  many  years  a  resident  in  Madagascar, 
as  sugar  planter  and  merchant,  had  succeeded  in  obtaining 
favourable  terms  for  himself,  for  some  re-opening  of  trade. 
It  was  stated  that  he  had  paid  the  Queen  15,000  dollars, 
(£3000  sterling)  and  obtained  the  monopoly  of  trade  on  the 
eastern  coast  to  the  end  of  the  year ;  that  he  had  about 
10,000  head  of  cattle  ready  for  exportation,  at  the  price  of 
twenty  dollars,  shipped  on  board,  and  two  dollars  per  head 
additional,  to  be  paid  to  the  Malagasy  Custom-house.  He 
had  also  4000  tons  of  sugar  on  hand,  with  large  quantities 
of  copal,  bees'  wax,  &c.  It  is  stated  also  that  the  Queen 
demands  a  sum  of  12,500  dollars  (£2500)  from  the  Govern- 
ment of  Mauritius,  before  consenting  to  the  re-opening  of 
trade  generally  with  the  English,  such  sum  to  be  con- 
sidered as  an  indenuiity  for  the  attack  made  by  the  English 
and  French  on  Tamatave,  in  1845. 

On  the  arrival  of  this  intelligence,  I  had  another  inter- 
view with  the  Governor,  by  appointment.     He  read  to  me 


882  AFFAIRS  OF  MADAGASCAR. 

his  letter  to  the  Queen  on  his  appointment  and  arrival 
here  as  Governor,  expressing  the  wish  to  renew  friendly 
relations  with  IMadagascar,  and  to  see  the  usual  commerce 
restored.  The  Queen's  reply  expressed  a  wish  to  see  the 
friendly  relations  restored,  but  insisted  on  the  payment  of 
the  fine  for  the  attack  on  Tamatave,  in  J  845.  The  Gover- 
nor read  to  me  also  part  of  the  despatch  which  he  had 
received  on  this  subject  from  Lord  Grey,  in  which  his 
Lordship  declines  the  suggestion  of  Sir  W.  Anderson,  as 
to  making  a  present  to  the  Queen.  The  English  Govern- 
ment is  unwilling  to  compromise  its  dignity  by  paying 
anything  in  the  shape  of  a  fine.  And  yet,  without  some 
concession  of  that  nature,  the  trade  cannot  be  re-opened. 
Much  of  this  affair  turns  on  the  previous  question, — 
whether  we  were  right  or  wrong  in  the  attack  which, 
luiitedly  with  the  French-r  we  had  made  on  Madagascar. 
Perhaps  Ave  were  somewhat  too  hasty  in  our  steps.  We 
committed  a  blunder  in  attempting  to  "punish  these  bar- 
barians," as  we  are  too  apt  to  designate  them,  without 
first  estimating  their  strength,  and  ascertaining  their  de- 
fences. We  did  not  send  and  proclaim  war  against  Mada- 
gascar in  a  regular  manner.  The  Queen  had  insisted  on 
the  foreigners  on  the  coast  either  becoming  her  subjects, 
just  as  natives  themselves  are,  or  quitting  her  countiy 
within  fifteen  days.  Some  refused  to  become  her  subjects, 
and  yet  could  not  dispose  of  their  property  within  the 
time  specified,  and  a  further  time  was  granted,  and  at 
length  some  were  forcibly  driven  out,  with  considerable 
sacrifice  of  property.  The  new  law  imposed  by  the  Queen 
was  extremely  severe  and  unjust  in  another  respect. 
Several  of  these  foreigners  had  contracted  engagements 
with  the  native  Avomen  of  jNIadagascar,  of  a  natm-e  equi- 
valent to  marriage,  with  whom  they  faithfully  lived,  and  by 
whom  they  had  offspring.  Yet  even  these  were  required, 
either  to  become  bond  fide  subjects  of  the  Queen,  or,  in 
the  event  of  their  preferring  to  leave  the  country,  not 
to  remove  their  wives    and   families  with   them,  but   to 


^ 


^ 


AFFAIRS  OF  MADAGASCAR.  383 

leave  them  in  Madagascar.  This  has  always  appeared  to 
me  a  hard  case.  The  Queen's  law,  which  might  be  highly 
proper  in  itself,  should  have  been  prospective,  and  not 
retrospective.  At  any  rate,  it  should  have  been  fairly 
modified  in  relation  to  the  parties  affected  by  it,  under  the 
peculiar  circumstances  now  stated. 

Both  parties,  it  seems  to  me,  the  IMalagasy  Government 
and  the  English  and  French  Governments,  were  gi'avely 
in  fault;  and  as  such,  both  ought  to  suffer  the  matter 
to  pass  into  oblivion. 

The  Queen  has  also  less  reason  to  complain  of  the 
English,  I  think,  since  the  latter  took  no  steps  to  re 
taliate  the  insult  offered  to  the  British  Government  in  the 
expulsion  of  Mi*.  Lyall,  British  Agent  in  1829,  nor  to  re- 
cover the  property  of  British  subjects  forced  out  of  Mada- 
gascar, by  the  change  of  policy  regarding  religion,  property 
belonging  to  the  Missionaries  and  the  Society,  amounting 
to  no  less  a  sum  than  10,000  dollars  (£2000  sterling) ! 

It  is  not  at  all  necessary  to  rej^eat  now  any  details  of 
the  attack  made  on  Tamatave,  in  consequence  of  these 
Malagasy  measures.  Some  English  and  French  troops 
landed  at  Tamatave,  attacked  the  fort,  and  were  repulsed. 
They  killed  many  of  the  Malagasy,  and  left  also  many  of 
their  own  number  dead  on  the  coast.  The  heads  of  these 
Europeans  were  cut  off,  and  placed  on  poles  along  the 
beach,  whei'e  they  remain  to  this  day,  and  of  which  t,he 
annexed  sketch,  taken  by  a  French  artist,  affords  a  melan- 
choly and  humiliating  representation.* 

During    my    visit    in    Port    Louis,   two   vessels   were 

*  Sometime  after  these  heads  had  been  thus  exposed,  an  officer  in 
the  Qixeen's  service,  of  high  rank  and  of  humane  disposition,  came 
do\v:i  to  Tamatave,  in  command  of  fresh  troops.  This  was  llatsito- 
haina,  the  chief  officer  in  the  Malagasy  Embassy  to  tliis  country,  in 
the  time  of  his  Majesty  William  IV.  Regarding  tliis  exposure  of 
the  heads  of  the  slain  as  an  unnecessary  indignity,  he  ordered  them 
to  be  taken  down  and  buried.  This  act  was  reported  to  the  Queen. 
It  was  treated  as  a  grave  oifence.  "  It  was  a  proof  that  he  sympa- 
thized with  the  enemies  of  the  Queen."     His  head  was  ordered  to  be 


384  AFFAIRS  OF  MADAGASCAE. 

engaged  to  go  from  Mauritius  to  Tamatave,  to  obtain 
some  cargoes  of  cattle,  under  the  new  arrangement  made 
with  M.  De  Lastelle.  I  therefore  made  up  my  mind  im- 
mediately, that  I  would  accompany  the  "  Nautilus."  I  went 
to  Captain  Ellis,  whom  I  knew  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
to  complete  the  anrangements,  and  hold  myself  ready  for 
tlie  embarkation  on  the  following  Monday.  But  my  plans 
were  defeated.  The  captain  was  not  allowed  to  take  any 
passenger  whatever,  nor  even  a  letter !  He  had  simply  to 
go,  obtain  his  cargo,  and  return ;  and  the  same  stipulation 
was  made  with  regard  to  the  other  vessel,  and  these 
stipulations  were  insisted  upon,  most  stringently,  by 
M.  De  Lastelle,  for  reasons  obvious  to  others  as  well  as 
himself. 

Dr.  Tavel,  who  had  come  to  Mam-itius  some  time  ago, 
from  Tananarivo,  where  he  had  kindly  aided  the  perse- 
cuted Christians,  and  had  returned  to  Tamatave,  was  not 
only  refused  permission  to  go  back  to  the  capital  from 
thence,  but  was  sent  off  from  the  coast  in  a  canoe,  and 
picked  up  from  that,  by  the  boats  of  a  ship  in  the  har- 
bour. Nothing  could  be  more  insulting  and  cruel.  This 
was  said  to  have  been  done  by  Eainiharo  and  his  party, 
while  Dr.  Tavel  himself  was  only  befriended  by  the  yoimg 
prince, — an  illustration  of  the  extraordinarj''  influence  of 
the  prime  minister,  Eainiharo, — and,  it  is  said,  of  M.  De 
Lastelle. 

An  important  circumstance  connected  with  the  suspen- 
sion of  trade  with  Madagascar,  is  the  additional  expense 
which  it  occasions  to  the  British  Commissariat  in  Mauri- 
tius. It  was  on  this  ground  that  the  merchants  of  Mauri- 
tius, in  an  address  to  the  Governor,  asked  for  a  pecvmiary 
grant  from  the  colonial  chest,  to  assist  them  in  paying 
15,000  dollars,  to  get  the  trade  with  Madagascar  reopened. 
That  request,  the  Governor  felt  obliged  to  decline. 

cut  off  and  hoisted  on  a  pole,  and  placed  among  the  rest ;  and  on 
the  beach  they  are  still  standing,  and  are  to  do  so  tUl  the  indemnity 
or  fine  is  paid. 


LOSS  TO  THE  KEVEXUE.  385 

The  mercantile  document  above  referred  to  states,  that 
the  Commissariat  purchased,  prior  to  the    suspension  of 
trade,  40,000  lbs.  of  meat  every  month,  but  since  then, 
only  25,000  lbs. — that  the  present  contract  is  for  25,000  lbs. 
at  fourteen  centimes/''^    or  if  trade   were   to    re-open,   at 
clglit  centimes,  that  is,  in  English  money,  at  seven-pence 
or  fourpence  a  pound  respectively,  being  a  difference  of 
three-pence  jyer  2J0und.     The  cost  of  25,000  lbs.  per  month, 
at  fourteen  centimes,  is  £8700  per  annum.     At  the  reduced 
price  which  is  contmcted  for,  if  trade  were  to  open,  it  would 
1)6  for  the  same  quantity,  only  £5000  per  annum.     So  that 
the  Government  now  pays  for  this  quantity,  £3700  a-year 
viore   than   it  would   do  in  peace;   and   as  this   state   of 
things  has  gone  on  for  six  years,  the  total  loss  amounts 
to  £22,000.     Still,  it  may  be  said,  this  is  not  a  real  loss, 
but  only  nominal,  because  the  Commissariat    now  pur- 
chases only  25,000  lbs.    instead  of  40,000  lbs.   a-month, 
and    that    the    40,000  lbs.    at    eight    centimes,    would 
amount  to  £8000   a-year ;    and   therefore,   that   the    Go- 
vernment actually  saves  by  this  arrangement  £700   per 
annum.      To  this  it  may  be   replied,   that   the    original 
quantity    of   40,000  lbs.  a-month,  was  then  15,000  lbs.  a 
month  too  much,  and  the  Government  wasted  that  quan- 
tity,  by  giving  it  superfluously  at   a  cost  of  £3000   per 
annum.     If  it  were  not  too  much  then,  the  same  quantity 
ought  to  be  purchased  now,  and  the  soldiers  ought  not 
so  be  made  to  suffer  for  this  want  of  amicable  arrange- 
ments between  the  two  Governments.     Now,  40,000  lbs.  a 
month,  at  the  present  price  of  fourteen  centimes,  would  be 
£14,000  per  annum,  instead  of  the  same  quantity  at  eiriht 
centimes,  amounting  to  £8000,  a  difference  of  £0000  per 
annum.     To  prevent  that  real  loss,  the  allowance  to  the 
soldiers  is  reduced  in  quantity,  and  a  nominal  saving  of 
£700  per  annum  effected.      But  supposing  peace  and  trade 
restored,  then  the  original  quantity  of  40,000  lbs.  might  be 

*  A  centime  is  the  hundi-cdth  part  of  a  dollar,  and  a  dollar   is 
equal  to  foux  sliilliiigs. 

c  c 


386  COOLIES  WITHOUT  INSTRUCTION'. 

trivcn  to  the  troops  at  this  cost  of  £8000,  whereas  the  re- 
duced quantity  of  25,000  Ihs.  now  costs  that  same  sum. 

The  troops  in  the  island  are  said  to  amount  to  1500 
alto<Tether.  Now  25,000  lbs.  of  meat  per  month  for  that 
number,  gives  an  average  of  nearly  four  pounds  a  week,  or 
a  little  more  than  half-a-pound  a  day  to  each  man.  The 
fact  however  is,  that  fresh  meat  is  noAv  allowed  three  days  in 
the  week  onlv,  instead  oi five ;  and  salt  provisions,  obtained 
at  a  cheaper  rate,  are  given  instead  of  fresh.  The  truth. 
I  believe,  is,  that  at  present,  the  Commissariat  obtains 
supplies  of  32,000  lbs.  monthly,  at  eight-pence  three  far- 
things per  pound,  being  jw:oke  than  double  its  cost  in  time 
of  peace.  The  actual  loss  to  the  Government  is  therefore 
an  important  item  in  these  matters. 

Although  many  of  my  impressions  connected  with  this 
visit  to  the  Mauritius  were  gratifying,  some  also  were  de- 
pressing. I  felt  depressed  at  the  sight  of  such  multitudes 
of  the  natives  of  India,  w^ho  are  engaged  as  labourers,  and 
for  whom  no  religious  instruction  whatever  is  ^jrovzV/^f/. 
Thev  come  in  from  Calcutta  and  Madras,  and  amount  to 
60,000.  I  fear  our  Society  can  do  nothing  in  the  case. 
Two  or  three  efficient  native  teachers  might  be  useful  : 
but  I  think  they  would  require  the  superintendence  of  u 
resident  Missionan,^  Possibly  Mr.  Le  Brun  and  his  son> 
might  exercise  that  superintendence ;  but  they  have  no 
acquaintance  with  the  Indian  languages,  and  the  native 
teachers  would  have  no  acquaintance  with  French ;  and 
hence  the  superintendence  would  be  extremely  imperfect 
and  ineffective. 

In  the  existing  state  of  the  Society's  funds,  it  would  be 
impossible,  I  fear,  to  place  a  European  JNIissionary  at 
Mauritius,  for  the  sake  of  the  native  Indians.  Unle>< 
familiar  with  their  language,  it  would  be  useless,  and  that 
could  only  be  acquired  in  India ;  and,  having  acquired  it 
there,  he  has  an  immensely  larger  field  of  usefulness 
open  before  him  there,  than  he  could  have  by  coming  io 


ROMAN  CATHOLICS  IN  MAURITIUS.  387 

IMauritius.  Then  again,  with  regard  to  INIauritius,  the 
only  party  increasing  rapidly  is  the  Roman  Catholic. 
They  have  a  bishop,  and  about  eight  or  ten  priests,  and 
subordinate  helpers  of  various  grades.  The  payment  of 
salaries  by  the  Government  gives  them  great  facility  for 
action.  Their  bishop  has  £'600  a  year,  and  the  priests, 
who  are  single  men,  £250.  They  have  also  numerous 
fees  from  the  people,  on  baptism,  marriage,  &c.  A  great 
deal  of  the  work,  in  constructing  their  chapels,  is  per- 
formed gratuitously,  as  works  of  "merit."  The  j)eople 
are  expected  to  labour,  especially  on  Sundays !  "  Every 
stone  carried  then  for  the  building  is  specially  noted  in 
heaven,  and  put  down  to  account!" 

The  Roman  Catholic  Bishop  in  Mauritius  wrote  a  letter 
some  time  ago  to  a  party  in  England.  It  was  there  pub- 
lished, and  has  travelled  back  to  the  Maiiritius.  He  states, 
that  the  Government  is  doing  all  that  it  can  to  encourage 
Protestantism,  but  happily  they,  the  Roman  Catholics,  are 
able  to  check  the  efforts,  and  the  cause  of  the  true  apostolic 
church  is  advancing  and  triumphing.  He  adds,  that  the 
good  people  at  Seychelles  had  long  requested  to  have  a 
minister  of  their  own  faith  sent  to  them, — meaning  of 
course,  in  his  view  of  the  matter,  a  Roman  Catholic ;  "  but 
that  the  Government  had,  instead  of  it,  sent  them  a  Pro- 
testant, thereby  fulfilling,"  says  the  Bishop,  the  "  scripture 
that  says,  'When  they  ask  for  bi-ead,  a  stone  shall  be  given 
instead  !'  "     This  is  not  our  version. 

The  Church  of  England  has  not  much  influence  in 
Mauritius.  It  is  attended,  of  course,  by  the  English 
residents,  chiefly  officers  of  the  Government,  and  a  few 
merchants.  The  senior  chaplain  cannot  be  heard  when 
he  preaches,  on  account  of  some  defective  pronunciation. 
But  the  general  impression  is,  that  this  is  not  a  serious 
loss  to  the  community.  The  second  chaplain  is  a  man  of 
sterling  excellence.  Rev.  L.  Bankes. 

Mr.  Le  Brun  s  congi-egation  consists  wlioUy  of  the  co- 


388  SICKNESS  AT  MArRITIUS. 

loured  people,  among  whom  there  appear  to  he  some  truly 
excellent  people,  although  not  having  much  weight  in  the 
community. 

For  the  religious  instruction  of  the  natives  of  ]Madagas- 
car  who  are  at  Mauritius,  useful  efforts  are  made  by  Mr. 
Le  Brun  and  his  son,  at  Port  Louis;  and  by  Mr.  P.  Le 
Brun,  at  Moka,  aided  by  Andrianado.  James,  Simeon,  and 
Paoly,  are  also  indefatigable,  and  it  is  hoped  that  Joseph 
may  shortly  return  from  Mohilla,  and  unite  with  them  in 
these  important  labours. 

Port  Louis  is  said  to  be  much  less  healthy  than  for- 
mei'ly ;  but  in  walking  about,  I  confess  T  could  not  be  in  the 
least  surprised.  I  saw  so  much  dirt,  and  the  streams  and 
drains  imcovered  emit  so  much  abominable  effluvium,  it  is 
only  marvellous  that  sickness  and  death  are  not  more  pre- 
valent. There  seems  to  me  to  want  a  vigilant  municipality 
with  sanitary  regulations,  and  power  to  enforce  them 
everj'where.  Indeed,  the  general  healthiness  of  Mauritius 
is  said  to  have  deteriorated  since  the  introduction  of  so 
many  Coolies  from  India.  Many  of  these  are  in  feeble 
health  on  their  arrival.  Their  food  is  not  sufficiently  nu- 
tritious, and  they  decay  and  die.  They  reside  in  large 
numbers  in  the  same  house,  and  this  also  augments  dis- 
ease, especially  with  the  want  of  habits  of  cleanliness. 

I  accompanied  Mr.  Le  Brun  to  visit  several  members  of 
his  congregation,  but  found  almost  every  house  affected 
with  the  prevailing  epidemic.  The  annual  meeting  of  the 
medical  men  of  Port  Louis  was  being  held,  but  eight  of 
their  number  Avere  absent,  on  account  of  being  personally 
seized  with  the  influenza — "la  grippe,"  as  the  French  terra 
it.  Twenty-four  of  the  police  were  reported  as  laid  aside, 
incapable  of  sendee  from  the  same  cause.  In  one  of  the 
commercial  establishments,  employing  one  himdred  Mala- 
bars,  ninety  of  the  men  were  laid  up,  leaving  ten  only  able 
to  work.  At  the  IMalagasy  congregation  in  the  evening, 
instead  of  the  ordinary  attendance  of  one  hundred,  there 
were  only  fifteen  present.     The  influenza  is  in  the  lungs. 


PEKSECUTIONS  IN  MADAGASCAR.  389 

not  the  membrane  of  the  kings.  It  is  attended  with  tight- 
ness of  the  chest,  severe  coughing,  headache,  and  pains  in 
the  limbs  generally.  It  lasts  a  few  days,  yields  to  mild 
ti'eatment,  and  then  disappears. 

The  newspaper  called  ''Sentinelle,"  one  morning  issued 
a  half  sheet  only,  the  half  its  usual  size,  and  contained  the 
following  apology :  "  Our  compositors,  with  the  exception 
of  one  man,  are  all  laid  up  with  the  prevailing  influenza." 


Since  my  return  to  England,  intelligence  has  been  re- 
ceived respecting  the  state  of  the  Christians  in  IMadagas- 
car.  It  appears,  that  in  consequence  of  the  oppressions 
under  which  the  people  generally  are  labouring  in  that 
country,  many  of  them  try,  from  time  to  time,  to  effect 
their  escape  into  some  of  the  provinces,  at  a  distance  from 
the  capital,  the  seat  of  Government.  In  doing  this  some 
have  been  apprehended  by  the  Queen's  troops,  who  are 
stationed  at  various  "out-posts,  and  who  act  as  guards  and 
patroles.  As  a  punishment  for  attempting  to  run  away, 
they  have  been  sold  as  slaves  to  Arab  merchants  on  the 
w^estern  coast,  and  some  of  them  taken  to  Mohilla.  There 
they  have  been  ransomed  by  the  friendly  chief,  a  daughter 
of  the  late  Eamanetaka,  cousin  to  the  late  Radama.  From 
these  natives  information  has  been  obtained  as  to  the  con- 
dition of  Madagascar  and  the  sufferings  of  the  Christians. 
In  May,  1850,  it  was  ascertained  by  the  Government,  that 
many  of  the  people  were  still,  in  defiance  of  the  law, 
assembling  for  Christian  worship.  Officers  were  accord- 
ingly sent  to  apprehend  them,  and  on  reaching  the  spot, 
many  miles  distant  from  Antananarivo,  they  themselves 
were  astonished  to  find  so  many  assembled  in  the  act  of 
worship,  and  having  moreover  a  chapel,  which  they  had 
built  for  themselves.  They  were  in  number  upwards  of 
one  thousand.  The  first  step  was  to  ascertain  who  Avere 
the  leaders  of  the  party,  and  who  had  built  the  chapel, 
and  then  to    discriminate  between  those  who  had   been 


390  MARTTRDOMS  IN'  MADAGASCAR. 

already  convicted  on  previous  occasions,  and  waiTied 
against  committing  the  same  offence  again,  and  those  who 
had  recently  united  with  them.  An  immense  assembly  of 
the  people  was  convened  to  be  present  at  their  trial,  or 
rather,  at  those  proceedings  which,  though  called  a  trial, 
amount  to  nothing  more  than  the  deliveiy  of  a  message 
from  the  sovereign,  and  the  final  sentence  regarding  the 
punishments  to  be  inflicted.  Time  was  allowed  for  parties 
to  become  their  own  accusers.  Voluntary  confession 
usually  exempts  from  the  severe  or  capital  punishment 
that  is  inflicted,  where  conA'ictions  are  obtained  through 
the  evidence  of  others.  Four  of  the  Christians,  nobles  of 
the  land  by  birth,  were  condemned  to  death  at  the  stake. 
These  were  Andriantsiamba,  Ramitraha,  Andriampaniry, 
and  his  wife.  Fourteen  of  the  Christians  were  also  put  to 
death,  by  being  thrown  over  the  steep  and  precipitous 
rock,  Ampahamarinana.  They  were  bound  with  cords, 
and  suspended  for  a  time  over  this  dreadful  precipice,  and 
asked  if  they  would  take  the  oath  proffered  to  them,  im- 
plying that  they  would  never  transgress  in  this  matter 
again;  and  on  their  steady  refusal,  the  cords  were  let  go, 
and  they  were  dashed  to  pieces ;  hurled  from  the  rocks, 
their  cry  Avent  up  to  heaven,  and  their  spirits  joined  the 
glorious  company  of  the  martyrs. 

Penalties  and  j^unishments  have  been  imposed  on  all 
the  rest,  whose  total  number,  it  aftenvards  appeai'ed, 
amounted  to  upwards  of  sixteen  hundred  ! 

"Now  thanks  be  unto  God  who  giveth  us  the  victor}-," 
that  his  Word  is  still  mighty  to  subdue  the  hearts  of  men 
to  obedience  and  faith, — that  so  goodly  a  company  of  con- 
fessors could  be  found  in  Madagascar,  and  that  so  large  a 
number  has  proved  ''faithful  even  unto  death.'' 


CHAPTEE    XVII. 

CEYLON— ADEN— SUEZ. 

LEAVE    MAURITIUS GALLE     IX     CEYLON NATIVE      CANOES ROUTE     TO 

COLOMBO COLOMBO BAZAAR BETEL   NUT PRODUCE PEARLS 

TREASURES     OF    THE     DEEP SCENERY — WESLEYANS     IN     CEYLON — ■ 

BAPTIST     MISSION  DR.      m'VICARS  — •  ATOLFENDAL  MISSIONARY' 

MEETING COTTON LORD    TORRINGTON PRISON SIR    ANTHONY 

OLIPHANT "  HADDINGTON" VOYAGE  TO  ADEN ADEN VOLCANIC 

APPEARANCES  OF  ADEN POPULATION SUMALl'S. 

I  EMBARKED  at  Poi't  Louis  Oil  boai'cl  the  Government 
packet  "Elizabeth,"  Capt.  Kidson,  for  Point  de  Galle, 
Ceylon,  having  one  passenger  on  board  besides  myself, 
the  Government  Resident  of  Goojoorat.  We  found  our 
Captain  a  remarkably  well-read  and  intelligent  man,  a 
little  inclined  to  be  cynical  after  indigestion,  acute  in  his 
remarks  on  men  and  manners,  always  kind  in  action,  and 
thoroughly  tired  of  his  roving  life  on  the  ocean,  without 
seeing  his  way  to  forsake  it. 

I  chose  this  somewhat  circuitous  route  in  returning  to 
England,  for  the  purpose  of  passing  a  little  time  in  Egypt, 
and  if  possible  in  Palestine.  I  knew  that  by  taking  this 
overland  route,  I  could  reach  home  about  as  soon  as  if  I 
had  come  by  a  sailing  vessel  from  Mauritius  and  round 
the  Cape.  Of  the  latter  route  I  had  already  acquired 
sufficient  experience.  I  longed  for  the  charm  of  variety 
and  novelty,  and  I  knew  that  Egypt  and  Palestine  would 
present  an  ample  supply  of  such  attractions. 

On  reaching  Galle  I  took  up  my  quarters  at  Mansion 
House  Hotel.     There  is  nothing  of  interest  on  approach- 


392  COLOMBO,  CEYLON. 

ing  Galle,  except  the  exhilarating  expectation  of  being 
soon  on  shore.  The  boats,  indeed,  which  convey  you 
from  the  vessel  to  the  beach  come  in  rather  a  "  question- 
able shape."  I  confess  I  ventured  into  one  with  a  little 
■wholesome  hesitation.  They  seem  as  though  they  would 
certainly  tilt  over,  unless  you  balance  yourself  with  the 
exactness  of  a  chronometer. 

They  are  formed  of  native  trees,  simply  scooped  and 
hollowed  out,  provided  with  planks  fitted  to  their  sides  to 
give  them  height,  and  then  with  outriggers,  to  prevent 
their  upsetting.  After  all,  they  are  extremely  narrow, 
awkward,  and  uncouth ;  but  the  charges  for  them  are 
moderate.  For  two  shillings  a  passenger  gets  on  shore 
with  all  his  luggage.  The  town  is  neither  large  nor 
beautiful ;  yet  it  has  a  touch  of  the  picturesque  about  it, 
and  is  not  destitute  of  comforts.  The  European  popula- 
tion is  small ;  it  consists  of  about  thirty  of  the  elite, 
such  as  would  be  entitled  to  attend  an  assembly  or  a  hal 
costume,  or  to  occupy  the  chief  seats  in  the  synagogue. 
The  language  principally  used  is  a  Portuguese  j^atois. 
Keligious  seiwices  are  conducted  in  English,  Portuguese, 
and  Cingalese. 

I  paid  a  brief  visit  to  Colombo,  the  seat  of  Government. 
The  distance  is  seventy-two  miles.  It  occupied  ten  hours, 
and  a  return  ticket  by  the  mail,  the  only  regular  convey- 
ance, cost  the  monstrous  sum  of  five  pounds.  At  the 
Cape  I  had  paid  only  eight  shillings  for  forty  miles  by  an 
omnibus,  from  Cupe  Town  to  Paarl :  that  was  modei-ate ; 
this  Ceylonese  charge  I  thought  exorbitant.  Still,  the 
ride  from  Galle  to  Colombo  is  worth  it,  for  it  is  exceed- 
ingly beautiful.  The  road  lies  near  the  coast,  almost  the 
whole  distance,  and  for  a  considerable  jiart  of  the  way,  is 
lined  on  both  sides  with  the  cocoa-nut  tree.  In  many 
places  these  form  a  magnificent  avenue  ;  the  tops  of  these 
graceful  trees  meet  across  the  road  and  shelter  it  from  the 
scorching  rays  of  the  sun.  On  many  of  the  trees  ropes 
are   suspended,    stretching   from   one   to    another.      The 


EOAD  TO  COLOMBO.  300 

natives  manage  to  walk  along  these  when  tapping  the 
trees,  to  obtain  the  juice  from  which  to  manufacture 
toddy,  and  to  obtain  the  fruit.  On  some  trees  also  I 
observed  a  long  bough  or  frond  of  the  tree,  tied  up  against 
its  trunk,  so  as  to  prevent  depredators  from  ascending  to 
steal  the  nuts.  Besides  the  cocoa-nut  tree,  there  were 
many  jack -fruit  and  bread-fruit  trees,  also  abundance  of 
the  vakoa,  a  species  of  the  screw-pine,  mangoes  and  bam- 
boos. Flowers  were  not  very  numerous.  We  passed  also 
abundance  of  the  banana  tree,  and  several  cinnamon  plant- 
ations. The  latter  yield  no  fragrance,  unless  in  blossom. 
The  leaves  and  stems  are  deliciously  fragrant  ichen  bruised. 
The  road  presents  a  lively  scene  throughout.  Native 
cottages  are  met  with  on  both  sides,  nearly  the  whole 
distance,  and,  with  few  exceptions,  are  within  a  few  yards 
of  each  other.  There  are  also  some  towns  and  villages 
through  which  the  mail  i")asses  ;  the  chief  of  these  is 
Caltara,  where  there  are  many  commodious  and  pleasant- 
looking  villas.  It  is  the  residence  of  an  Englisli  magis- 
trate. About  half  way  on  the  road  is  an  apology  of  an 
hotel,  where  an  apology  of  a  breakfast  is  provided,  and  for 
eating  which  the  traveller  has  to  make  his  apology  in  the 
shape  of  three  shillings. 

Colombo  must  be  pronounced  a  fine  town.  The  Govern- 
ment House  appears  to  be  spacious,  appropriate,  and  com- 
fortable, and  the  part  of  the  town  where  it  is  situated  is 
open,  airy,  and  agreeable.  The  houses  were  built  origin- 
ally by  the  Portuguese ;  they  have  spacious  verandahs, 
and  consist  of  large  halls  and  wings.  They  are  built,  for 
the  most  part,  of  a  peculiar  kind  of  rock,  found  extensively 
in  the  island,  and  which,  it  appears,  answers  the  purpose 
extremely  well;  but  what  the  rock  mineralogically  is,  there 
seems  some  difHculty  in  deciding.  Dr.  M'Vicars,  with 
whom  I  had  some  conversation  respecting  it,  and  who  ap- 
pears to  be  familiar  with  the  geology  of  the  country,  con- 
siders it  to  be  a  species  of  magnetic  iron  ore.  The  iron 
found  in  it  gives  it  duraljility ;   but  it  has  also  much  clay 


394  BAZAARS — BETEL  NUT. 

in  it,  and  the  appearance  of  decomposing  feldspar.  It  iS 
easily  wrought  into  blocks  for  building,  and,  when  built,  is 
covered  with  a  plastering  of  mortar,  obtained  from  the 
coral  with  which  the  coast  abounds. 

The  town  of  Colombo  is  large  ;  its  principal  streets 
or  roads  branch  out  in  straight  lines  in  various  directions. 
Part  of  it  is  called  the  "  Fort,"  and  part  the  "  Pettah ;"  the 
former  includes  the  portion  of  the  town  which  lies,  as  the 
name  imports,  within  the  walls  of  the  Fort.  The  Pettah 
is  the  portion  we  should  designate  "  the  suburbs,"  where 
the  bazaar,  or  market,  is  held.  The  bazaar  is  large  ;  part 
of  it  consists  of  rows  of  houses,  the  lower  portions  of 
which  are  used  as  shops,  as  well  as  the  verandah,  which 
immediately  faces  the  shops.  The  verandah  is  filled  with 
tbe  various  articles  on  sale,  spread  out  on  mats  on  the 
groimd;  and  here  may  be  found  rice,  and  grain  of  all  kinds 
— vegetables  and  fruits,  crockery,  ironmongery,  wooden- 
ware,  earthen  bowls,  &c.,  haberdashery,  common  jewellery; 
— in  fact,  everything  in  native  demand.  There  are  also 
other  portions  of  the  bazaar,  properly  so  called,  having 
sheds  under  cover,  without  dwelling-houses,  where  fish, 
meat,  poultry,  &c.,  may  be  procured.  The  whole  is  a  scene 
full  of  animation  and  variety.  Here  are  Cingalese  and 
Hindoos,  in  all  varieties  of  dress  and  appearance.  The 
Anglo-native  descendants  are  usually  called  "Burghers  ;" 
but  this  is  not  considered  so  respectful  as  "  Dutch  descend- 
ants," or  "  Portuguese  descendants."  These  latter  con- 
stitute a  numerous  class,  and  are  mostly  Eoman  Catholics. 
They  form  a  large  body  of  the  inhabitants,  but  have  now 
few  converts  from  the  Cingalese.  To  me,  one  of  the  most 
disagreeable  things  in  the  appearance  of  the  natives,  that  I 
met  with,  is  the  universal  use  of  the  betel-nut  («;•«>(?«),  mixed 
with  lime  and  a  leaf; — men  and  women,  old  and  young, 
fathers  and  mothers,  lads  and  maidens, — all  indulge  in  the 
practice.  It  is  prepared  and  sold  in  all  the  bazaars  and 
shops  along  the  road.  It  gives  a  bright,  blood-red  appear- 
ance to  the  lips,  gums,  and  teeth.     It  is  said  to  preserve  the 


PEARL  FISHERT.  395 

teeth  from  decay ;  but  it  is  also  said  to  be  extremely  preju- 
dicial in  the  long-run  to  health  ;  much  in  the  same  way,  I 
suppose,  that  the  habitual  use  of  opium,  or  tobacco,  may  be 

I  was  notable  to  procure  any  good  "  Hand-book"  of  Cey- 
lon, giving,  in  a  short  compass,  the  information  a  traveller 
might  wish  to  obtain.  I  found  such  information  princi- 
pally in  the  Ceylon  "  Almanack  ;"  but  I  understood  that  Sir 
Emerson  Tennant,  late  Secretaiy  to  Government,  was 
about  publishing  a  full  and  comprehensive  account  of  the 
island,  and  Avhich  would  contain  a  large  amount  of  valu 
able  statistical  information  that  may  be  relied  on.  I  gather, 
from  a  small  work  on  Ceylon,  which  I  borrowed  there,  that 
the  average  amount  of  coffee  exported  from  the  island 
during  1844,  5,  and  6,  was  480,452  cwt. — nearly  25,000 
tons  ;  that  about  half  a  million  pounds  weight  of  cinnamon 
is  annually  exported,  besides  an  amazing  quantity  of  cocoa- 
nuts,  cocoa-nut  oil,  and  coir.  There  are  many  manufac- 
tories of  this  coir  on  the  road  between  Galle  and  Colombo. 
The  shells  of  the  nut  are  first  well  soaked,  the  fibres  are 
then  beaten  out,  and  in  that  prepared  state  it  is  conveyed 
to  the  rope-walks  for  manufacture. 

The  pearl-fishery  was  formerly  of  great  value  in  Ceylon. 
The  Government  claimed  the  right  of  letting  out  the 
fisheries,  and  it  apjiears  that  the  revenue  of  Government, 
received  from  this  source  of  income  during  forty  years,  say 
from  1796  to  1837,  amounted  to  the  enormous  sum  of 
£828,381  10s.  Irl, — nearly  a  million  of  money  !  How  im- 
mense, how  boundless,  are  the  treasnres  of  the  deep  I 
These  fisheries  are  now  forbidden.  They  Avere  becoming 
exhausted  and  destroyed  by  being  overworked.  After  a 
few  years,  they  will  be  worked  again,  and  made  to  yield  a 
harvest  for  the  service  of  man.  "  Thou  hast  put  all  things 
imder  his  feet ;  all  sheep  and  oxen,  yea,  and  the  beasts  of 
the  field,  the  fowl  of  the  air,  and  the  fish  of  the  sea,  and 
whatsoever  passeth  through  the  paths  of  the  sea."  Psalm 
viii.  0 — 8. 

It  was  a  great  addiliunal  pleasure  to  nic,  while  at  Ceylon, 


396  MAGNIFICENT  SCENERY, 

to  meet  the  deimtation  from  the  Baptist  Missionary  So- 
ciety, consisting  of  Kev.  Mr.  Leecliman,  and  my  brother- 
in-hiw,  Rev.  Joshua  Eussell.  We  passed  several  pleasant 
hours  together,  with  our  fi'iends  at  Ceylon. 

The  deputation,  which  had  been  to  Kandy,  had  just 
returned  to  Colombo.  They  had  been  much  delighted 
with  the  scenery  on  their  trip  ;  they  found  it  grand  and 
enchanting.  It  almost  tempted  me  to  go  there  also  ;  but 
my  time  was  brief;  I  was  anxious  to  return  to  Galle  in 
time  for  the  steamer  expected  for  Suez,  so  that  I  could 
have  had  only  a  day,  or  two  days  at  most  there,  and  it 
seemed  scarcely  worth  while  to  pay  another  £o  for  the  fare 
of  the  mail  there  and  back  ;  losing,  at  the  same  time,  the 
opportunity  of  seeing  more  of  Colombo,  and  meeting  the 
friends  there.  And  after  all,  I  must  confess,  I  had  now 
seen  so  much  that  is  magnificent  and  beautiful,  that  I  ceased 
to  be  anxious  to  visit  spots,  merely  for  the  sake  of  scenery. 
There  required  some  additional  object  of  attraction. 
Wales,  North  and  South,  the  Lakes  of  Killarney  and  West- 
moreland, Old  Scotia  and  Jamaica,  ]\Iadagascar  and  Kaffir- 
land,  Natal  and  Mauritius,  had  satisfied  me  in  that  respect; 
and  now,  having  seen  Tabor  and  Hermon,  Carmel  and 
Lebanon,  I  am  content,  and  willing  to  remain  at  home. 

I  called  on  Eev.  Mr.  Gogerly,  Wesleyan  Missionary,  and 
superintendent  of  this  district.  He  appeared  to  me  hale 
and  vigorous  for  a  man,  I  suppose,  about  60  years  of  age, 
and  after  30  years'  continuous  service  in  Ceylon.  He  had 
not  been  to  England  during  all  that  period,  but  still  wished. 
if  it  could  be  so  arranged,  to  return  home  in  the  course  of 
a  short  time.  I  was  much  gratified  with  my  brief  inter- 
view with  him;  he  appeared  "  full  of  his  work,"  and  to 
have  his  heart  in  it.  On  the  review  of  the  labours  of  the 
Christian  Church  in  Ceylon,  he  was  of  opinion  that  there 
was  ample  ground  for  thankfulness  and  encouragement. 
His  hopes  rested  chiefly  on  the  training  of  a  native 
ministry,  and  he  thought  the  Wesleyan  Society  was 
successful  in  the  prosecution  of  that  object.     They  have 


SUNDAY  AT  COLOMEO.  307 

some  natives  already  ordained  as  pastors,  and  they  have 
others  under  a  careful  course  of  training  and  preparation. 

They  greatly  need  further  help  from  England  ;  and  he 
expressed  the  hope  that  Missionaries  were  on  their  way 
out,  or  shortly  would  be.  But  the  great  desideratum,  he 
considered  to  be,  a  more  earnest  and  decided  character  in 
the  piety  of  the  natives,  and  for  that  purpose  a  much  more 
copious  communication  of  the  influences  of  the  Holy 
Spirit ;  and  to  this  point  in  particular,  he  thought  the 
prayers  of  the  Church  at  home  should  be  directed. 

I  was  much  gratified  with  the  Mission  School  for 
native  girls,  under  the  able  care  of  Mrs.  Allen,  wife  of  the 
Baptist  minister  at  Colombo.  They  are  instructed,  educated, 
and  boarded  by  means  of  resources  raised  principally  by 
her  indefatigable  exertions,  among  her  own  friends.  They 
cost  about  £b  per  year  each. 

I  spent  the  Sunday  at  Colombo  very  pleasantly.  In  the 
morning  I  heard  Mr.  Eussell  preach  a  sound,  useful,  prac- 
tical discourse,  in  relation  to  the  alleged  imperfections  of 
primitive  Christians,  and  modern  native  converts,  exhibiting 
the  unreasonableness  of  expecting  perfection  in  their 
character,  and  the  injustice  of  denouncing  or  declaiming 
against  Christianity  itself,  on  the  ground  that  real  converts 
are  often  found  imperfect,  and  pretended  converts  insincere. 
I  heard  Dr.  M'Vicars  also,  at  the  Scotch  Church,  deliver  an 
able  discourse  on  the  power  of  habit  and  custom,  as  illus- 
trated in  the  history  of  Saul  of  Tarsus,  prior  to  his 
conversion,  and  founded  on  Acts  ix.  1.  To  the  Doctor  I 
had  lettex"s  of  introduction  from  a  nmtual  friend,  C.  U. 
Stuart,  Esq.,  now  of  Bloem  Fontcin,  in  South  Africa. 

I  spent  the  day,  between  the  services,  at  I\Ir.  Allen's,  in 
company  with  Mr.  llussell.  Our  evening  service  was 
almost  too  warm  for  an  European.  'J'lie  chapel  was 
filled,  and  the  place  excessively  hot,  from  tlie  great  number 
of  cocoa-nut  oil  lamps,  with  immense  wicks,  burnin<T 
furiously. 

I  took  breakfast  next  morning  with  Mr.  Palm,  of  the 


398  RELIGIOUS  EFFOHTS  IX  CETLOX. 

Wolfendal  Church,  and  ^Yhich  is  occupied  by  the  country- 
born  population,  descendants  of  the  Dutch.  The  church 
was  built  above  100  years  ago,  long  before  the  English  had 
possession  of  the  island.  It  was  erected  at  a  great  expense, 
by  the  Dutch  Government,  and  designed  for  services  in 
connexion  with  the  Dutch  Presbyterian  form  of  church 
government.  It  has  lately  been  lent,  in  compliance  with 
request,  to  the  native  congregation  of  the  English  Epis- 
copal Church,  for  services  at  certain  hours,  when  not 
required  by  ]\Ir.  Palm's  Presbyterian  congregation.  The 
native  Episcopal  congregation  then  put  in  a  claim  for  the 
church,  as  theirs,  under  the  plea  of  its  belonging  to  Govern- 
ment. It  was  thought  that  the  Bisho})  of  Colombo  was 
lending  his  influence  in  support  of  that  claim;  but  this 
must  evidently  be  some  mistake.  However,  it  awakened 
considerable  uneasiness  and  anxiety,  and  showed  that  even 
Ceylon,  with  all  the  spicy  breezes  that  over  it  so  softly 
blow,  may  not  be  quite  exempt  from  clouds  and  storms. 

We  had  a  well-attended  Missionary  meeting  in  the 
evening,  held  at  the  Wolfendal  Church.  ]Mr.  Layard,  Go- 
vernment Agent,  (cousin  of  the  Nineveh  traveller  and 
excavator),  took  the  chair.  The  Baptist  Deputation  gave 
an  account  of  their  progress,  and  I,  a  brief  notice  of  mine 
in  Africa.  The  chairman's  introductory  address  was  excel- 
lent, breathing  a  fine  liberal  spirit,  and  clothed  in  elegant 
language.  Dr.  Elliott  also  delivered  an  animated  address. 
Dr.  E.  conducts  the  "Colombo  Obseiwer,"  aided  by  his 
talented  coadjutor,  Mr.  Ferguson.  This  paper  takes  the 
liberal  side  in  politics,  and  exercises  deservedly  a  large 
amount  of  influence  in  fixvour  of  all  that  is  valuable  in 
Ceylon. 

I  rode  over  to  Cotta,  to  see  the  Church  Missionary 
Society's  station  there,  and  spent  a  little  time  in  company 
with  the  Eev.  j\Ir.  Gordon.  There  is  a  valuable  class  of 
native  young  men  in  the  institution  from  fourteen  to 
eighteen  years  of  age,  who  have  made  respectable  progress 
in  Latin,  Greek,  and  mathematics.     Mrs.  Gordon  has  an 


CHRISTIAN  MISSIONS  IN  CEYLON.  309 

excellent  school  for  native  girls.  ]Mrs.  Palm  also  has  a 
similar  one,  which  I  had  visited  on  my  way  to  town  from 
Marandham.  The  premises  at  Cotta  are  valuable,  and  Avell 
adapted  to  the  purposes  of  a  large  institution.  The  con- 
gregation is  said  to  be  very  limited,  owing  to  the  existence 
of  some  local  and  natural  prejudices  in  this  part  of  Ceylon, 
which  prevent  the  people  from  associating  in  the  same 
place  of  worship. 

With  regard  to  the  results  of  Christian  Missions,  and 
the  progress  of  Christianity  in  Ceylon,  it  would  be  ob- 
viously unsuitable  for  me  to  express  any  opinion  of  my 
own.  My  time  there  was  too  brief,  and  the  sphere  of  my 
observation  too  limited,  to  enable  me  to  form  a  careful 
judgment.  But  a  publication  has  very  recently  issued 
from  the  press,  written  by  the  late  colonial  secretary  of 
Ceylon,  Sir  James  Emerson  Tennant,  which  appears  to 
me  to  be  very  impartially  as  well  as  elaborately  drawn  up, 
and  to  be  worthy  of  most  careful  perusal. 

I  venture  to  make  one  or  two  brief  extracts  from  this 
work. 

"For  some  years  after  the  conquest  of  Ceylon  by 
the  British,  attention  was  but  sparingly  directed  to  the 
extension  either  of  Christianity  or  education  amongst  the 
Singhalese  and  Tamils.  Our  tenure  of  the  island  was 
uncertain,  and  our  occupation  almost  provisional,  till,  by 
the  Treaty  of  Amiens  (1802)  Ceylon  was  definitively 
attached  to  the  dominions  of  Great  Britain.  Four  years 
before,  the  government  of  the  army  had  been  confided  to 
the  Hon.  Mr.  North,  afterwards  Earl  of  Guilford,  who,  with 
administrative  talents  of  the  highest  order,  combined  an 
enthusiasm  in  the  cause  of  education,  by  which,  at  a  later 
period  of  his  life,  he  imperishably  associated  his  name 
with  the  regeneration  of  Greece,  as  the  founder  and  iirst 
Chancellor  of  the  Ionian  University. 

"Mr.  North's  first  efforts  as  governor  were  directed  to 
the  promotion  of  native  instruction,  by  reviving  and  ex- 
tending the  educational  system  of  the  Dutch. 


400 


CHRISTIANITY  IX  CEYLON. 


'•  Such  was  the  general  success  of  Mr.   North's 

measures,  that  in  1801  the  number  of  schools  throughout 
the  colony  amounted  to  170;  and  Sir  Thomas  Maitland, 
who  succeeded  him  in  the  government,  exhibited  an  equal 
appreciation  of  the  importance  of  popular  instruction,  and 
an  equal  assiduity  in  its  extension. 

"  All  tliese  operations  were  unfortunately  circumscribed 
by  the  embarrassed  state  of  the  colonial  finances,  from 
which,  by  order  of  the  Secretary  of  State,  no  larger  sum 
than  £1500  per  annum  was  for  many  years  appropriated  to 
the  maintenance  of  native  education;  a  retrenchment  the 
immediate  effect  of  which  was  to  close  a  multitude  of 
schools  which  had  been  opened  by  Mr.  North  in  all  parts 
of  the  island. 

"  But  v.-e  come  now  to  a  painful  manifestation  of  the 
unsubstantial  nature  of  all  that  had  been  formerly  done  by 
the  Dutch  in  the  way  of  Christian  conversion  among  tlie 
natives  of  Ceylon  ;  evincing,  at  the  same  time,  the  deep 
and  tenacious  attachment  of  the  Singhalese  to  their  own 
national  superstitions.  On  the  arrival  of  the  British,  both 
the  Singhalese  and  Tamils,  accustomed  as  they  had  been 
for  nearly  two  centuries  to  a  system  of  religious  compul- 
sion, expected  to  find,  on  the  part  of  their  new  masters,  a 
continuance  of  the  same  rigour  which  had  characterised 
the  ecclesiastical  policy  of  the  Dutch. 

"  Under  this  apprehension  they  prepared  themselves  to 
conform  implicitly  to  whatever  form  of  Christianity  might 
be  prescribed  by  the  new  government;  and  not  only  did  the 
number  of  nominal  converts  exhibit  no  immediate  reduc- 
tion on  a  change  of  rulers,  but  they  were  reported  in  1801 
to  have  so  exceeded  anything  ever  exhibited  by  the  Dutch, 
as  to  amount  to  no  less  than  342,000  Protestants,  exclusive 
of  a  still  greater  number  who  professed  the  Fioman  Ca- 
tholic religion. 

"  The  natives,  however,  soon  came  to  regard  the 

withdrawal  of  compulsion  to  religious  conformity  only  as 
.evidence  of  religious  indifference  on  the  part  of  their  new 


APOSTACT  IN  CEYLON.  -401 

rulers  ;  and  they  became  still  more  firmly  convinced  of  the 
justice  of  this  conclusion,  on  discovering  that  they  were  no 
longer  to  be  paid  for  apostacy;  and  that  a  monopoly  of 
offices  and  public  employment  was  not,  as  theretofore,  to 
be  jealously  preserved  for  the  outward  professors  of  Christ- 
ianity. Almost  with  greater  rapidity  tban  their  numbers 
had  originally  increased,  they  now  commenced  to  decline. 
In  1802  the  nominal  Protestant  Christians  amongst  the 
Tamils  of  Jaffna  were  136,000;  in  1806,  Buchanan,  who 
then  visited  Ceylon,  describes  the  Protestant  religion  as 
extinct,  the  fine  old  chvirches  in  ruins,  the  clerg}'  who  had 
once  ministered  in  them  forgotten,  and  but  one  Hindoo 
catechist  in  charge  of  the  province.  Vast  numbers  had 
openly  joined  the  Eoman  Catholic  communion,  to  which 
they  had  long  been  secretly  attached;  and  the  Avhole  dis- 
trict was  handed  over  to  priests  from  the  college  of  Goa. 
In  the  Singhalese  districts,  the  decline,  though  not  so 
instantaneous,  was  equally  deplorable;  the  342,000  over 
whom  Cordina  confidingly  rejoiced  in  1801,  had  diminished 
in  1810  to  less  than  half  the  amount;  and  numbers  of 
Protestants  were  every  year  apostatizing  to  Buddha. 

"  The  result  of  this  disheartening  demonstration  of  apos- 
tacy throughout  Ceylon  was  not,  however,  without  its  uses, 
and  it  was,  to  a  certain  extent,  important  in  more  than  one 
particular.  Christian  missionaries  had  already  begun  to 
establish  themselves  in  Ceylon;  three  had  arrived  in  1804, 
and  at  the  very  outset  of  their  toil  they  found  not  only  a 
clear  field  for  their  labours,  but  a  striking  illustration  of 
the  difficulties  of  their  task,  and  of  the  hopelessness  of 
attempting  anything  on  mere  human  strength,  or  on  any 
and  delusive  reliance  upon  human  devices." 

After  stating  various  other  efforts  which  were  made, 
Sir  James  Emerson  Tennent  remarks  :  "  The  success  of 
these  renewed  efforts  was,  however,  far  from  satisfiictory ; 
tlic   first   three  missionaries*  who  arrived  in  ISOl,   -were 

*■  These  were  German  Missionaries  accepted  by  the  liOndon 
Missionary  Society,  and  appointed  to  Ceylon. 

DD 


403  CHURCH  OF  ROME  IN  CEYLON. 

stationed  respectively  at  Jaffna,  Matura,  and  Galle ;  but 
after  a  patient  trial  at  each  place,  the  result  was  pronounced 
to  be  a  failure.  They  succeeded  in  establishing  schools, 
which  were  but  sparingly  attended;  the  Singalhese  Christ- 
ians in  the  south  were  represented,  after  four  years'  minis- 
tration among  them,  to  be  '  worse  than  the  heathen — 
thousands  of  them  actual  worshippers  of  Buddha ; '  and 
their  general  estimation  of  Christianity  so  low,  that  it  was 
known  to  the  Singhalese  only  as  'the  religion  of  the  East 
India  Company.''  As  for  the  Tamils  of  the  north,  after  a 
few  years  of  hoi^eless  exertion,  the  missionary  sent  to  them 
was  withdrawn;  and  so  universal  was  their  relapse  into 
idolatry,  that  within  a  very  few  years,  the  only  Christians 
who  were  to  be  found  on  the  peninsula  were  the  members 
of  the  Church  of  Eome. 

"  So  rapid  was  the  decline  of  the  Christian  religion 
throughout  the  colony  during  the  period  immediately 
subsequent  to  the  retirement  of  the  Dutch,  and  so  exten- 
sive its  corruption  where  it  had  not  actually  disappeared, 
that  on  the  first  arrival  of  the  several  missionaries  of  the 
Baptists,  the  Wesleyans,  the  Americans,  and  the  Church 
of  England,  between  the  years  1812  and  1818,  the  Pro- 
testant form  of  Christianity,  and  certainly  its  purity  and 
influence,  might  be  considered  almost  extinct.  The  first 
missionaries  who  arrived  in  Ceylon  after  its  occupation  by 
the  English,  were  the  three  Germans,  sent  out  in  1804  by 
the  London  Missionary  Society,  the  imperfect  success  of 
whose  labours  has  been  already  alluded  to.  These  were 
followed  in  1812  by  a  deputation  from  the  eminent  esta- 
blishment of  the  Baptists  at  Serampore ;  and  two  years 
later  by  the  \yesleyans  led  by  the  lamented  Mr.  Coke,  who 
expired  on  the  voyage,  when  within  a  few  days'  sail  of  his 
destination.  To  these  were  added  in  1818  four  ordained 
missionaries  of  the  Church  of  England. 

"At  present  the  Baptist  Mission  occupies  130  villages 
of  the  Singhalese,  employs  3  European  and  1 1  native  mis- 


MISSIONS  IN  CEYLON.  403 

sionaries,  maintains  35  schools,  with  an  average  attend- 
ance of  830  pupils,  and  has  enrolled  as  communicants  451 
converts  to  Christianity. 

"  With  regard  to  the  Wesleyans,  the  total  number  of 
native  Christians  admitted  to  actual  membership  with  their 
church  is  something  over  a  thousand. 

"  The  Church  of  England  Mission  began  its  labours  in 
1818,  and  from  that  time  to  the  present  upwards  of  20 
ordained  clergymen  have  devoted  their  labours,  and  some 
of  them  their  lives  to  its  promotion. 

"  Of  the  Church  Missionary  Establishment  in  Ceylon, 
the  most  important  is  that  of  Cotta.  So  early  as  1828  they 
had  297  children  under  instruction.  In  1834,  the  number 
of  pupils  had  increased  to  350,  of  whom  one-sixth  were 
girls.  Within  16  years  from  the  commencement  of  the 
mission,  upwards  of  900  boys  were  in  daily  attendance  on 
the  schools,  and  400  girls,  a  total  of  1,300  children  through- 
out 29  hamlets  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Cotta.  At  the 
present  time,  after  the  perseverance  and  toil  of  the  mis- 
sionaries for  26  years,  their  schools  number  71,  and  their 
scholars  exceed  2000,  of  whom  500  are  females. 

"  The  results  of  these  efforts  to  diffuse  Christianity 
throughout  Ceylon  are  less  unsatisfactory  than  they  may 
outwardly  seem  to  a  casual  observer,  who  regards  only 
their  ostensible  effect :  for  however  limited  may  be  the 
first  definite  gains  in  the  numerical  amount  of  acknow- 
ledged converts,  the  process  has  commenced  by  which 
these  will  be  hereafter  augmented ;  and  living  principles 
have  been  successfully  implanted  as  much  more  precious 
than  the  mere  visible  results,  as  the  tree  exceeds  in  value 
the  first  fruits  of  its  earliest  growth. 

"  Nor  have  these  fruits  themselves  been  inconsiderable, 
when  we  bear  in  mind  the  antiquity  and  strength  of  the 
superstitions  which  have  pre-occupied  the  soil ;  the  faihu-es 
of  the  first  efforts  of  Christianity  to  supplant  them,  the 
peculiar  characteristics  of  the  Singhalese  people,  and  the 


404  PKOGRESS  OF  CHRISTIANITY. 

limited  means,  as  well  as  the  circumscribed  resom-ces,  of 
the  various  Christian  missions  which  have  been  engaged 
in  the  work. 

"  The  aggregate  number  of  converts  in  Ceylon  is  no 
criterion  as  to  the  progress  of  Christianity ;  not  only  be- 
cause these  are  not  its  sole  indications,  but  because  the 
tests  on  admission  and  the  discipline  afterwards  differ, 
not  only  in  different  churches,  but  even  amongst  the  dif- 
ferent establishments  of  the  same  Christian  mission.  In 
addition  to  which,  the  missionaries  themselves  are  fully 
aware  of  the  fact,  that  amongst  their  nominal  adherents 
there  are  numbers,  whose  life  and  inward  feelings  are  at 
variance  with  their  seeming  profession,  and  who,  though 
they  may  not  fall  under  the  designation  of  impostors,  are 
far  from  being  entitled  to  the  denomination  of  Christians. 

"  Political  changes  are  usually  rapid,  and  often  the  off- 
spring of  a  single  cause  ;  but  all  moral  revolutions  are  of 
gradual  development,  and  the  result  of  innumerable  agen- 
cies. Progressive  growth  is  the  law  and  process  of  Nature, 
in  all  her  grand  operations.  Philosophy,  science,  and 
art,  all  the  moral  and  intellectual  development  of  man,  are 
progressive ;  and  under  the  influence  of  Christianty  itself, 
the  march  of  civilization,  though  controlled  and  directed 
by  its  ascendency,  is  regulated  by  those  eternal  laws 
of  social  progress  which  have  been  ordained  by  Omnipo- 
tence. 

"  The  jDace  may  be  slow  and  unequal,  but  the  tendency 
is  onward,  and  the  result  may  be  eventually  rapidly  de- 
veloped ;  and  such,  it  is  my  firm  con\action,  will  be  the 
eflfect  of  Avhat  is  now  in  progress,  not  in  Ceylon  alone,  but 
throughout  the  continent  of  India.  A  lai-ge  proportion  of 
the  labour  hitherto  has  been  prospective,  but  its  effects  are 
already  in  incipient  operation ;  and  on  all  ordinaiy  prin- 
ciples, a  power  once  in  motion,  is  calculated  to  gather 
velocity  and  momentum  by  its  own  career. 

"  When  the  time  shall  have  arrived  for  the  mighty 
masses  of  India  to  move  with  a  more  simultaneous  impulse, 


PASSAGE  TO  ENGLAND.  405 

it  is  impossible  to  calculate  the  eflfect ;  but  looking  to  the 
magnitude  of  the  operations  which  have  been  so  long  in 
process,  to  the  vastness  of  the  agencies  which  have  been 
organized,  it  is  not  unreasonable  to  suppose  that  the  last 
conquests  to  Christianity  may  be  achieved  w4th  incom- 
pax'ably  greater  rapidity  than  has  marked  its  earlier  pro- 
gress, and  signalized  its  first  success ;  and  that  in  the 
instance  of  India,  '  the  ploughman  may  overtake  the 
reaper,  the  treader  of  grapes  him  that  soweth  the  seed,' 
and  the  type  of  the  prophet  realized,  that  '  a  nation  shall 
be  born  in  a  day.'  " 

On  reaching  Columbo,  on  my  return  from  Cotta,  I  ac- 
companied Dr.  M'Vicars  to  the  Government  House.  He 
introduced  me  to  Lord  Torrington,  who  was  holding  a 
levee  on  the  occasion  of  his  departure  for  England.  Many 
native  magistrates,  called  Moodeliars,  were  present,  dressed 
in  splendid  uniforms.  Those  to  whom  I  was  introduced 
were  an  intelligent  class  of  men,  and  conversed  in  English 
with  the  utmost  facility.  His  lordship  appeared  to  me 
careworn  and  fatigued,  and  glad  to  get  through  a  ceremony 
which  could  not,  I  suppose,  be  dispensed  with. 

The  prison  at  Columbo,  under  the  very  able  management 
of  Mr.  Green,  appears  to  be  admirably  conducted.  The 
reformation  of  offenders  is  kept  steadily  in  view,  and  this 
is  pursued  more  by  a  system  of  encouragements  than  of 
severity.     The  plan  apparently  succeeds  well. 

I  returned  from  Columbo  to  Galle,  and  shortly  after- 
wards had  the  pleasure  of  hearing  that  the  Hadd'uujton, 
steamer,  from  India,  had  arrived  on  her  way  to  Suez.  I 
immediately  engaged  a  passage  to  Southampton,  at  a 
charge  of  £94.  Had  I  taken  it  only  to  Suez,  with  the 
view  of  remaining  some  time  in  Egypt,  the  cost  would  be 
£80,  and  £12  in  addition,  to  the  '•  Egyptian  transit  admi- 
nistration "  to  Alexandria,  making  £92 ;  and  then  the  cost 
from  Alexandria  to  Southampton  would  be  all  extra.  I 
therefore  took  my  passage  throughout,  and  obtained  per- 
mission to  remain  one  or  two  months  in  Egypt. 


406  LEAVING  CEYLON. 

Just  prior  to  embarkation  at  Galle,  I  had  the  pleasure 
of  taking  an  early  dinner,  in  company  with  the  Rev. 
Messrs.  Clarke,  Dixie,  and  Ripon,  with  Sir  Anthony 
Oliphant,  chief  judge  of  Ceylon,  and  to  whom  I  had  been 
formerly  introduced  at  the  Cape,  where  he  was  then 
attorney-general.  He  had  now  just  arrived  from  England, 
whither  he  had  been  summoned  to  give  evidence  in  the 
case  of  Lord  Torrington.  I  could  not  but  be  much  grati- 
fied to  observe  the  interest  w'hich  both  Sir  Anthony  and 
his  lady,  much  to  their  honour,  took  in  the  subject  of 
Christian  Missions.  Some  men  of  high  standing  look 
on  all  such  things  with  supercilious  contempt.  Sir  A. 
Oliver  is  a  keen  observer,  a  shrewd  lawyer,  and  above 
vulgar  prejudices ;  and  therefore  does  not  despise  mis- 
sions. 

The  Haddington  is  a  noble  vessel,  and  exceedingly  well 
managed,  under  the  able  command  of  Captain  Field.  We 
had  about  one  hundred  passengers  on  board,  and  the 
officers  and  crew  amounted  to  about  one  hundred  and 
eighty.  Weather  was  for  the  first  w'eek  against  us,  the 
wind  squally;  afterwards  it  set  in  remarkakably  fine.  The 
sea  became  as  smooth  as  a  lake,  and  the  sky  clear  and 
deeply  blue.  The  thermometer  stood  at  84°.  Millions  of 
flying  fish  Avere  playing  on  the  whole  surface  of  the  ocean, 
and  continued  to  do  so  for  several  days.  Our  average 
progress  was  two  hundred  miles  a  day. 

We  were  now  approaching  land.  The  island  of  Socotra 
was  right  before  us — famous  for  its  aloes,  and  many  a 
"  bitter  pill  "  in  human  life.  The  north-eastern  point  of 
Africa,  Cape  Guardafui,  was  on  our  left.  We  passed 
between  Socotra  and  Abd-el-Koory  on  our  way  to  Aden,  on 
the  coast  of  Arabia  Felix ;  a  part  of  the  countiy  of  the 
False  Prophet,  and  where  the  crescent  is  still  in  the 
ascendent  above  the  Cross. 

We  took  in  coal  for  our  steamer,  not  at  the  town  of 
Aden  itself,  but  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  peninsula, 
near  Eas-ibn-Tarshein.     It  is  a  wretched-looking  country. 


ADEN.  407 

It  seems  as  if  made  of  burnt  cinders — a  very  suitable 
place  for  keeping  a  store  of  coals,  tbat  must  in  their  turn 
become  ashes  too. 

The  peninsula  on  which  Aden  stands  is  about  five  miles 
across  in  one  direction,  and  four  in  the  other.  The 
mountain  Jebel  Shamsan,  1770  feet  high,  extends  over 
nearly  the  whole  breadth  of  the  island  from  east  to  west. 
But  all  the  rocks  and  mountains  of  this  region  present  a 
most  desolate  appearance.  They  are  all  volcanic,  and 
unenlivened  by  any  indication  of  vegetation.  All  is 
gloomy,  sombre,  and  sterile  ;  none  but  a  very  imaginative 
poet  could  dream  of  any  "  Sabsean  odours,"  myi'rh  and 
frankincense,  just  there.  And  yet,  as  Dr.  Wilson  re- 
marks, the  scene  is  not  wholly  devoid  of  interest.  "  Great 
masses  of  dark-coloured  volcanic  rock  and  mountain  rise 
before  and  behind  on  the  peninsula  of  Aden,  with  peaks 
frequently  turreted  and  castellated,  in  the  wildest  and  most 
fantastic  forms,  with  flanks  bleak  and  bare  as  they  ap- 
peared when  first  upheaved  amidst  the  convulsions  of 
nature,  or  first  grazed  with  the  lava  streams  that  flowed  on 
their  surface." 

Aden  itself  has  a  population  of  about  19,000  native 
inhabitants,  and  1000  European.  I  had  not  time  to  cross 
the  peninsula  to  visit  it,  but  I  found  it  described  as  situated 
in  a  remarkable  locality,  the  bason  or  amphitheatre  of 
volcanic  rocks,  or,  in  truth,  on  the  crater  of  a  volcano  itself. 
The  houses  are  very  slight,  and  offer  but  few  accommo- 
dations, according  to  our  European  notions  of  things. 
Glass  windows  are  as  yet  unknown,  and  the  apertures 
which  admit  light  are  just  large  enough  to  permit  a  few 
rays  to  creep  in  and  make  the  darkness  of  the  apartment 
visible.  There  are  some  few  towers  or  minarets  ;  wells 
and  tanks  have  been  numerous,  many  of  which  have  be- 
come useless  for  want  of  care  in  preserving  them.  There 
are  about  1000  Jews  resident  there,  and  2000  Sumalis. 
These  latter  are  natives  of  a  singular  appearance  from  the 
opposite    coast   of    Africa,    near    Guardafui.      They   are 


408  SUMALIS. 

•wi'etchedly  clad,  but  are  not  wholly  unprepossessing  in 
tlieir  shape  or  manners.  They  are  of  a  dark  copper- 
colour  as  to  skin,  and  their  naturally  black  woolly  hair 
they  contrive  to  change  into  a  light  red  or  brownish 
yellow,  by  means  of  shell  lime — the  veiy  reverse  of  the 
process  of  our  civilized  and  fashionable  hair  dyes.  They 
give  their  hair  an  upward  and  diverging  twist  in  small 
knots — so  as  to  make  it  a  perfect  resemblance  to  a  well- 
trundled  mop.  That  seemed  quite  the  fashion,  as  most 
of  the  youths  I  saw  in  the  boats  off  Aden  wore  their  hau- 
dressed  in  that  style.  We  re-embarked  and  stai'ted  for 
Suez. 


CHAPTEE    XVIII. 
EGYPT. 

ARABIAN  GULF PASSAGE    OF  THE  ISRAELITES SINAI — THE    STEAMER 

SUEZ FUNERAL  AT    SUEZ — VANS  FOR    THE  DESERT — CROSSING    THE 

DESERT — REACHING  CAIRO EMOTIONS  ON  REACHING  CAIRO HOTEL 

d'oRIENT REV. MR.  LIEDER — OPHTHALMIA TURKISH  BATHS — VISIT 

TO  THE  PYRAMIDS — CHEOPS — SECOND  PYRAMID A  NIGHT  IN  A  TOMB 

SAK.HARA MEMPHIS TORAH BEZATEEN COPTIC  CHURCH 

GREEK    CHURCH ENGLISH    EPISCOPAL    SERVICE CITADEL ANEC- 
DOTE  OLD  CAIRO — ANECDOTE MOSQUES  —  GENERAL  APPEARANCE 

PREPARATIONS  TO  VISIT  PALESTINE — INSURRECTION  AT  ALEPPO 

EARLY    EGYPT    NOT    IDOLATROUS — CURIOSITIES TETRAWAN NEW 

PALACE —  HELIOPOLIS OBELISK BALBEIS CAMELS WELLS    AND 

WOMEN ROBBERS — EL  ARISH. 

After  leaving  Aden  we  soon  came  within  sight  of  the 
islets  near  the  entrance  to  the  straits  of  Bab-el-Mandeb, 
and  afterwards  we  got  a  tolerably  good  view  of  Mocha, 
the  celebrated  town  of  Mocha,  which  lies  on  the  coast  of 
Arabia  Felix,  and  at  a  distance,  at  any  rate,  looks  well. 
Its  houses  are  whitewashed,  and  have  flat  roofs.  There 
are  several  minarets.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  strong  stone 
wall.  It  is  noted  for  its  fruits,  which  are  brought  from 
the  interior.  Its  sheep  are  imported  from  Abyssinia,  and 
its  rice  from  India.  It  has  much  commercial  importance 
at  present,  which  however  may  diminish  as  Aden  becomes 
the  seat  of  British  influence  and  enterprise. 

We  had  most  delightful  weather  up  the  Arabian  Gulf, 
and  proceeded  rapidly  towai'ds  our  destination.  I  deli- 
vered a  discourse  on  board,  on  the  Sunday  morning  on 
which  we  were  passing  up  the  lied  Sea,  and  selected 
as  the  subject  the  Psalmist's  review  of  the  wonders  God 


410  PASSAGE  OF  THE  ISRAELITES. 

wrought  for  Israel,  in  delivering  them  out  of  Egj-pt  and 
conducting  them  through  the  Red  Sea.  Psa.  evi.  7 — 10. 
I  thought  the  circumstances  of  our  locality  more  than 
justified  the  selection  of  that  historical  suhject. 

We  continued  our  course  up  the  Red  Sea,  and  of 
necessity  crossed  that  portion  of  it  where,  in  the  opinion 
of  some,  the  miraculous  passage  of  the  Israelites  under 
Moses  was  effected,  namely  a  few  miles  south  of  Suez, 
and  where  the  sea  is  ahout  six  or  seven  miles  across. 
This  opinion  has  always  appeared  to  me  the  best  sus- 
tained of  the  various  views  which  have  been  cherished 
on  this  perplexing  subject.  It  can  never  now,  I  appre- 
hend, become  a  matter  of  certainty,  nor  is  this  of  any 
serious  importance.  But  the  explanation  which  supposes 
that  the  Israelites  proceeded  to  the  south  of  the  spot 
where  Suez  now  stands,  and  came  out  through  the  defile 
near  the  Wadi  Tawarik,  then  turned  towards  Ras  Atakah, 
and  crossed  the  sea  nearly  opposite  to  Ain  Musa,  "  the 
fountain  of  Moses,"  seems  to  me  to  satisfy  the  condi- 
tions of  the  case  as  stated  by  the  sacred  writers,  and  as 
implied  in  local  names  and  traditions. 

It  was  sufficient  to  awaken  emotions  and  associations 
of  deep  interest  in  eveiy  thoughtful  mind,  that  although 
it  might  be  impossible  to  assign  the  exact  localities  of 
these  ancient  events,  we  were  certainly  in  the  vicinity 
of  those  hallowed  spots,  where  scenes  of  such  imperish- 
able interest  had  occurred. 

For  some  time  we  lost  sight  of  land  both  on  the 
Arabian  and  the  African  side  of  the  Gulf;  then  entered 
the  Gulf  of  Suez  by  the  Straits  of  Jubal,  leaving  Ras 
Mohamed  on  our  right,  the  headland  that  forms  tlie 
southern  point  of  the  Peninsula  of  Sinai.  The  momi- 
tain  range  that  embraces  Sinai  is  a  magnificent  object. 
Our  captain  took  pains  to  point  out  to  the  jiassengers 
the  summits  of  what  he  judged  to  be  Jebel  Musa  and 
Jebel  Katharin,  so  far  as  they  are  laid  down  in  the 
charts. 


SINAI.  411 

As  I  had  no  intention  of  visiting  that  part  of  the 
journeyings  of  the  children  of  Israel,  I  was  glad  to  have 
caught  even  a  brief  glimpse  of  the  region  where  "  the 
Lord  descended  on  Sinai,"  and  his  law  was  proclaimed 
amidst  thunders  and  lightnings  and  voices.  Could  I 
have  realized  my  wishes,  I  would  have  pui'sued  my  journey 
amidst  those  localities,  crossed  the  Desert  of  El  Tih, 
the  desert  of  "the  wanderings,"  and  gazed  on  the  stupen- 
dous wonders  of  Petra  and  Edom  ;  but  I  had  made  my 
choice  of  Cairo  and  Jerusalem,  and  therefore  sought  to 
neutralise  my  regrets  on  leaving  reluctantly  what  I  could 
not  further  enjoy,  by  indulging  more  largely  the  thoughts 
and  the  anticipations  of  the  engrossing  scenes  which  yet 
awaited  me. 

We  were  now  shortly  to  leave  the  steamer,  and  I  must 
say,  I  could  not  but  admire  the  excellence  and  perfection 
of  its  arrangements.  The  utmost  punctuality  was  inva- 
riably observed,  so  conducive  to  the  convenience,  the 
comfort,  and  the  good  temper  of  passengers.  Everything 
connected  with  the  business  of  crossing  so  large  a  portion 
of  the  ocean,  in  a  splendid  and  noble  vessel,  having  so 
large  a  company  on  board — passengers,  oflficers,  and  crew — 
seemed  to  be  worked  as  easily  and  harmoniously,  as  the 
steam-engine  itself,  of  450  horse  power,  by  which  we 
were  propelled.  Of  those  in  charge  of  the  vessel,  or 
having  arrangements  to  make  for  the  passengers,  every 
one  seemed  to  know  his  duty  instinctively,  and  to  per- 
form it  almost  mechanically.  All  were  busy,  yet  without 
collision  or  confusion.  There  was  work  for  all,  yet  none 
seemed  oppressed.  Even  the  business  of  putting  up 
the  awnings  on  deck,  and  the  taking  them  down,  was 
done  with  exactness  of  movements  like  clock-work  ;  the 
boatswain's  whistle  and  deep  bass  voice,  and  the  piper's 
fife,  were  all  exactly  in  tune  ;  lounging-chairs  of  all  de- 
scriptions were  there  for  the  luxury  of  the  passengers, 
and  a  tolerable  supply  of  books  worth  reading  might  be 
found  in  the  ship's  library. 


41Q  SUEZ  TO  CAIRO. 

It  speaks  much  for  the  excellent  management  and 
good  temper  of  the  captain  and  officers,  that  not  a 
single  case  had  heen  hrought  on  quarter-deck  for  adju- 
dication for  more  than  fifteen  months.  I  think  that 
the  captain  was  well  entitled  to  the  letter  of  acknow- 
ledgment which  all  the  passengers  signed  on  leaving 
the  vessel.  As  soon  as  we  had  dropped  anchor  at  Suez, 
several  native  boats  came  alongside,  and  in  about  an 
hour  we  reached  the  jetty  from  the  steamer,  at  a  cost 
of  two  shillings  each.  A  small  carpet-bag  is  allowed  to 
be  taken  by  each  passenger,  as  luggage,  in  proceeding 
by  the  transit  vans  from  Suez  to  Cairo — the  only  por- 
tion of  the  route  which  is  strictly  overland.  All  the  rest 
of  the  luggage  is  sent  forward  by  camels,  and  the  pas- 
sengers have  nothing  more  to  do  with  it  from  the  time 
of  its  being  put  on  the  deck  of  the  steamer,  till  it  reaches 
Cairo ;  nor,  indeed,  there,  unless  they  are  themselves 
remaining  at  that  city ;  and  in  that  case,  the  luggage, 
having  been  carefully  marked  accordingly,  is  put  aside 
at  Boulac,  the  port  of  Cairo,  and  not  shipped  on  board 
the  Nile  steamer. 

From  Suez  the  passengers  are  conveyed  in  vans  or 
small  omnibuses  across  the  Desert  to  Cairo.  As  there 
are  not  sufficient  vans  to  take  all  the  passengers  at  once, 
parties  of  six  each,  the  number  each  van  carries,  are  made 
up  before  quitting  the  steamer,  and  lots  are  then  drawn 
to  decide  the  order  of  precedence  in  starting,  and  so  to 
prevent  confusion. 

My  principal  engagement  at  Suez  was  of  a  melancholy 
character.  A  respectable  woman,  house-keeper  for  many 
years  in  the  family  of  Lord  Torrington,  had  died  that 
morning,  and  as  we  were  then  at  no  great  distance  from  land, 
it  was  veiy  properly  arranged  that  her  remains  should  be 
buried  on  shore,  rather  than  consigned  to  the  deep.  The 
Eev.  A.  H.  Allcock,  E.I.C.  Chaplain,  one  of  our  passengers, 
and  with  whom  I  had  had  much  agreeable  intercourse  on 
board,  would  have  performed  the  burial  service,  but  as  he 


BURIAL  AT  SUEZ.  413 

was  anxious  to  proceed  at  once  by  an  early  van,  and  my 
turn  would  not  come  for  some  hours  afterwards,  he  and 
Lord  Torrington  requested  me  to  undertake  the  sei-\-ice  : 
of  course  I  consented.  The  burial  ground  provided  for 
Europeans  lies  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  Ave  had  some 
little  distance  to  proceed  over  the  shallows.  It  was  after 
sunset  when  we  put  off  from  the  jetty ;  the  men  rowed 
some  distance,  then  pushed  the  boat  with  poles  to  a  spot 
where  it  is  neai^ly  dry  ground,  and  then  carried  us  on  their 
shoulders  the  rest  of  the  way. 

Instructions  had  been  sent  forward,  and  the  grave  was 
already  dug.  Part  of  the  crew  brought  the  corpse  forward 
to  that  dreary  spot.  A  native  stood  by,  holding  a  light, — 
consisting  of  pieces  of  wood  blazing  on  a  brazier,  or  open 
grate,  fixed  at  the  top  of  a  pole.  It  enabled  me  to  read  a 
portion  of  Scripture,  and  part  of  the  church  service  for  the 
burial  of  the  dead.  The  body  was  committed  to  its  I'esting- 
place,  and  the  grave  was  immediately  filled  up.  Lord 
Torrington  requested  the  captain  of  the  steamer,  who  had 
also  attended,  to  give  instructions  for  the  erection  of  a  suit- 
able monument  and  head-stone. 

We  returned  as  we  came.  The  man  that  carried  me 
took  care  to  lose  no  time  in  asking  for  "  backsheesh" — a 
gift.  I  observed  he  began  to  pant  or  breathe  rather  heavily, 
as  if  he  wished  to  impress  me  with  an  idea  that  he  was 
groaning  under  a  very  heavy  load  !  I  promised  to  give  him 
something  at  the  end  of  his  services.  I  did  so,  and  his 
fatigue  soon  vanished. 

By  the  time  we  returned  to  the  hotel,  the  first  set  of 
vans,  consisting  of  five,  had  started,  and  in  three  hours 
afterwards  the  second  division  commenced  the  tour.  My 
turn  and  that  of  the  rest  of  the  party  came  about  midniglit, 
and  I  left  Suez  nothing  loth.  Suez  is  a  place  of  no  interest, 
l)eyond  that  connected  with  the  transit  of  passengers.  It 
had  lately  suffered  much  from  cholera.  It  was  reported 
that,  out  of  2500  inhabitants,  upwards  of  1000  had  fallen 
victims, — a  fatality  arising,  no   doubt,  from    the  want  of 


414  JOURNEY  TO  CAIRO. 

precautionary  measures,  besides  want  of  cleanliness,  medi- 
cine, and  care. 

Before  we  left  Suez  all  the  luggage  was  despatched  on 
camels  to  Cairo.  We  found  an  immense  number  of  them 
ready  for  starting,  when  we  first  landed.  It  occasioned  no 
little  stir,  and  apparent  confusion,  with  ample  noise  and 
clamour,  yet  the  whole  matter  was  soon  and  satisfactorily 
adjusted. 

We  continued  our  journey  across  the  Desert  all  night,  and 
a  dreaiy,  desolate  ride  I  found  it  to  be  :  sand  and  pebbles 
all  the  way;  nothing  green,  nothing  alive  ;  the  counti-y  is 
level  nearly  the  whole  distance,  and  where  the  construction 
of  a  railway  could  occasion  no  expense  of  cuttings.  The 
Egyptian  Government  is  macadamizing  the  road  from  Cairo 
towards  Suez.  About  ten  or  twelve  miles  ai'e  completed. 
This  has  cost  £10,000.  The  work  is  still  in  hand,  but 
whether  there  will  be  vigour  and  resources  to  complete  the 
whole  distance,  I  know  not. 

Each  van  is  supplied  with  four  horses,  a  driver,  and 
attendant,  whose  services  we  found  to  be  in  frequent  requi- 
sition. We  changed  horses  every  five  miles.  I  think  we 
had  in  all  fifteen  or  sixteen  sets  of  horses,  and  some  of 
them  were  jaded  enough.  The  poor  brutes  seemed  to 
have  extra  duty  to  do,  in  consequence  of  the  unusually  large 
number  of  passengers  now  crossing  the  Desert.  AVe  met 
on  our  way  great  numbers  proceeding  to  Suez,  who  had 
just  arrived  at  Alexandria  from  England,  and  immense 
trains  of  baggage. 

We  were  about  nineteen  hours  on  the  journey.  If  the 
roads  were  good  throughout,  ten  hours  would  suftice,  with 
two  hours  more  for  refreshments.  We  had  a  slight  repast 
about  three  in  the  morning,  breakfast  about  eight,  and 
Minner  at  three  in  the  afternoon.  This  is  all  provided 
at  the  expense  of  the  Eg}-ptian  Administration,  and  is 
included  in  the  cost  of  conveyance  charged  by  the 
Peninsular  and  Oriental  Steam  Navigation  Company  to 
each  passenger.     I  found  nothing  to  interest  one  in  the 


CAIRO.  415 

line  of  road.     The  whole  distance  appears  to  have  been 
once  covered  with  ocean. 

On  reaching  Cairo  I  proceeded  to  the  European  Hotel, 
which  had  been  recommended  to  me  on  the  passage ;  but 
I  found  it  full — they  had  not  a  bed  to  spare.  I  went  next 
to  the  Hotel  d'Orient,  found  comfortable  accommodation, 
and  there  I  remained  during  my  stay  in  Cairo. 

And  thus  I  found  myself,  almost  to  my  astonishment, 
actually  in  Egypt ;  actually  in  the  ancient  oriental  city  of 
Cairo  !  At  length,  after  many  journeyings  and  voyagings, 
not  at  all  beyond  my  wishes,  but  far  beyond  any  expecta- 
tions I  had  ever  seriously  cherished,  I  found  myself  under 
the  merciful  protection  of  the  "Father  of  spirits,"  there  in 
the  midst  of  a  land  of  such  surpassing  interest,  such  mar- 
vellous antiquity,  and  such  instructive  revolutions.  I  could 
scarcely  recognise  my  feelings  and  emotions,  much  less 
could  I  analyse  them.  I  felt  elated  and  thankful  to  be  per- 
mitted to  be  there.  I  anticipated  much  from  my  visit,  and 
I  realised  more  than  I  anticipated.  It  will  continue  to  fill 
my  mind  with  images,  associations,  and  reminiscences 
during  the  rest  of  the  journey  of  life  ;  and  I  felt  sure  that 
I  should  realise  new  and  vivid  impressions  in  connexion 
with  Biblical  scenes,  both  of  history  and  of  prophecy,  which 
would  most  amply  repay  me  for  all  the  toil  connected  with 
this  portion  of  my  tour.  I  entered  Egypt,  too,  with  the  hope 
that  I  might  also  visit  Palestine.  That  would  be  the 
consummation  of  my  wishes.  But  even  if  I  found,  from  any 
cause,  that  to  be  impracticable,  I  thought  I  had  gained  a 
point  worth  obtaining,  to  be  now  in  the  land  whither  Abra- 
ham went  down  in  a  time  of  famine — where  the  Israelites 
so  long  sojourned  —  where  the  Jewish  Legislator  was 
trained  in  all  the  wisdom  of  the  Egyptians,  and  from  whence 
God  brought  forth  his  chosen  tribes,  by  a  mighty  hand 
and  an  outstretched  arm.  I  felt  that  it  was  a  point  wortli 
gaining,  to  be  on  a  visit  in  a  land  that  occupied  so  promi- 
nent a  position  in  the  Sacred  Volume, — a  land  tliat  seems 
long  to  have  preserved  the  purity  of  an  early  patriarchal 


416  CAIRO. 

religion — that  afterwards  degenerated  in  its  doctrines,  and 
sank  down  to  the  meanest  forms  of  polytheism — that  has 
for  ages  been  impoverished,  feeble,  corrupt,  and  enslaved, 
and  yet  that  seems  destined  by  the  counsels  of  Heaven  to 
rise  again,  and  share  a  blessing  in  common  with  other 
favoured  lands. 

It  was  something  to  be  in  the  famous  oriental  city  of 
Cairo — amidst  its  palaces,  and  mosques,  and  minarets — its 
bazaai's  and  its  baths — close  by  the  marvellous  Nile,  a 
river  scarcely  surpassed  in  interest  by  any  stream  in  the 
w^orld — to  be  within  sight  of  the  far-famed  Pyramids,  and 
the  tombs  of  the  caliphs  and  the  Memlook  kings — sur- 
rounded on  every  hand  by  antiquities  so  venerable,  as  to 
create  the  illusion  that  you  were  yet  living  amidst  gene- 
rations that  have  slept  for  centuries  or  millenniums,  but 
whose  magic  works  are  fresh  as  those  of  yesterday. 

And  now  at  the  Hotel  d'Orient,  with  windows  wide 
open  all  night,  and  the  air  cool  and  pleasant,  I  enjoyed  a 
night's  repose ;  then  rose  early,  and  set  out  for  Boulac  to 
procure  my  luggage.  My  dragoman  obtained  two  don- 
keys, and  for  the  first  time  for  many  a  long  year,  I  found 
myself  magnificently  seated  on  one  of  those  most  service- 
able and,  as  I  thought  them,  willing  and  good-tempered 
creatures.  I  found  my  luggage  all  right,  and  soon  re- 
turned with  it,  by  the  aid  of  stout  porters,  .to  my  apart- 
ments. I  did  not  find  their  demand  exorbitant,  and  love 
the  genuine  English  feeling  of  rewarding  men,  whatever 
be  their  colour,  for  their  labour,  ay,  and  giving  them  a 
little  over,  if  they  work  cheerfully  and  well.  I  have  an 
instinctive  and  unconquerable  aversion  to  be  imposed  on, 
and  I  hate  an  exaggerated  demand  ;  but  welcome  all  that, 
rather  than  procure  one  atom  of  relief  from  toil,  or  save 
one  sordid  farthing,  at  the  price  of  another's  unpaid  toil. 
I  saw  nothing  in  Egypt  to  abate  my  abhon-ence  of  slavery  I 

I  next  proceeded  to  make  an  early  call  on  the  Eev.  Mr. 
Lieder,  and  his  excellent  lady,  of  the  Church  Missionary 
Society,  residing  in  premises  of  that  Society  in  the  Coptic 


OPHTHALMIA  IN  CAIRO.  417 

quarter  of  Cairo,  and  from  whom  I  received  a  most  kind 
and  Christian  welcome,  not  only  to  Cairo,  but  to  their 
house  and  domestic  comforts.  I  felt  unwilling  to  obtrude 
myself  so  far  as  to  accept  their  invitation,  but  I  promised 
I  would  pay  them  a  frequent  visit.  I  arranged  to  pass  the 
evening  with  them,  and  to  meet  there  a  gentleman  from 
India,  who  had  just  returned  from  Syria,  and  could  give 
me  recent  information  as  to  route,  packets,  steamers,  &c. 
I  visited  the  two  schools  on  their  premises,  one*  for  boys, 
the  other  for  girls,  consisting  of  about  eighty  or  ninety  of 
the  former,  and  upwards  of  one  hundred  of  the  latter.  A 
few  of  the  lads  to  whom  I  spoke,  read  some  English  flu- 
ently, and  perfectly  understood  all  I  said  to  them.  One 
of  the  things  that  struck  me  somewhat  painfully,  on  enter- 
ing the  school-rooms,  was  the  almost  universal  disease  of 
the  eyes  which  prevails.  Ophthalmia  seems  to  afflict  all  in 
Egypt — old  and  young.  I  met  many  in  the  streets  who 
are  quite  blind,  others  partially  so,  many  squinting,  and 
nearly  all  the  rest  either  near-sighted  or  having  some 
malady  of  the  eyes.  I  returned  to  my  hotel  to  breakfast, 
and  then  made  my  arrangements  for  visiting  the  Pyramids 
the  next  day.  In  the  afternoon  I  enjoyed  tlie  luxury  of  a 
Turkish  bath,  a  very  needful  means  of  purification  after  a 
voyage  in  the  steamer,  and  a  journey  across  the  Desert. 
No  outward  appearance  or  sign  indicated  that  the  house 
was  a  bathing  establishment.  My  dragoman  conducted 
me  to  it,  and  assured  me  it  was  a  good  one.  Similar  ones 
are  very  numerous  in  Cairo,  but  this  happened  to  be 
within  an  easy  walk  from  the  hotel.  Having  passed 
through  a  winding  passage,  I  entered  the  central  room, 
where  the  very  proper  and  prccautionaiy  measures  of  un- 
dressing and  re-dressing  are  performed.  A  lofty  divan,  of 
about  four  feet  from  the  ground,  occupies  the  side  of  the 
room  all  round,  and  on  which  are  stretched  mattresses  for 
reposing  on  coming  out  of  the  bath,  and  on  which  one  is 
rubbed  and  shampooed.  Ilaving  undressed,  and  being 
supplied  with   a  long  turban,  wooden  clogs,  and  some 

E  E 


418  LUXURY  OF  A  BATH. 

loose  shawls  thrown  over  the  body,  you  are  conducted  by 
a  guide  through  two  or  three  other  passages,  over  a  stone 
floor  streaming  with  warm  water,  into  the  inner  room,  where 
you  are  directed  to  descend  into  the  bath.  The  hot  vapour 
of  the  room  makes  one  pause  to  fetch  breath.  You  go 
down  by  a  step  or  two  into  the  bath  itself,  and  find  the 
water  as  hot  as  can  be  borne  without  pain.  In  a  short  time 
the  attendant  comes  and  beckons  you  out  of  the  "  cauldron," 
and  points  to  a  marble  slab  on  which  to  lie  do\Mi.  You 
obey,  and  are  then  well  rubbed  with  shaggj^  gloves ;  then 
soaped,  scrubbed  well,  and  again  put  into  the  cauldron. 
Emerging  from  it  a  second  time,  you  are  led  to  the  central 
room,  lie  down  on  the  mattress,  and  being  covered  with 
three  or  four  thin  shawls,  undergo  the  process  of  shampoo- 
ing, pulling,  and  twisting ;  the  fingers,  hands,  arms,  legs, 
and  toes,  are  all  rubbed  and  twisted  in  turn,  the  shoulders 
pulled,  the  back  bent,  arms  placed  behind  the  back,  crossed 
and  pulled,  and  many  joints  made  to  crack ;  then  after 
being  rubbed  thoroughly  dry,  you  dress,  take  a  cup  of 
cofiee,  and,  if  so  disposed,  a  few  whiffs  from  the  shibouk  ; 
pay  two  shillings  for  the  bath,  give  the  attendant  a  gratuity, 
and  retire  refreshed  and  invigorated  like  a  giant  for  a  race. 
I  set  out  about  eight  o'clock  ne.\t  monaing  for  the  long- 
contemplated  and  wished-for  object — never  so  near  before, 
and  even  then  scarcely  realised — a  visit  to  the  Pyramids, — 
the  marvelloiTS  Pyramids — one  of  the  great  wonders  of  the 
world,  presenting  stupendous  edifices  to  the  eye,  and  in- 
scrutable mysteries  to  the  contemplative  mind.  My  guide 
procured  three  donkeys  and  their  respective  attendants,  two 
boys  and  a  Nubian  man-servant,  swarthy  as  the  darkest- 
coloured  race  of  mortals  need  be,  with  an  Ethiopian's  skin 
such  as  neither  soap  nor  nitre  could  change.  We  took 
with  us  provision  for  a  couple  of  days'  excursion,  for  sight- 
seeing, even  in  Egypt  itself,  does  not  neutralise  the  appetite. 
I  took  also  a  prodigiously  large  and  warm  wrapper,  called  a 
'•capoty,"  made  in  Syria,  which  Mrs.  Lieder  kindly  insisted 
on  my  using  during  the  night. 


CROSSING  THE  NILE.  419 

Leaving  the  Esbekeyah,  the  handsomest  square  m  Cairo, 
we  proceeded  towards  Old  Cairo  (Fustat),  passed  by  the  palace 
of  Sohman  Pasha,  and  came  down  to  the  edge  of  the  Nile. 
There,  amidst  no  little  noisy  altercation  between  ferrymen 
and  people  waiting  to  start,  and  others  just  arriving,  my 
dragoman  succeeded  in  getting  a  boat,  into  which  I  jumped, 
and  our  three  donkeys  were  made  to  jump  also  ;  and  in  a 
short  time  we  had  crossed  the  stream,  within  sight  of  the 
island  Rhoda,  where  Moses  is  said  to  have  been  concealed  in 
the  bulrush  ark ;  and  were  on  our  way  to  Gizeh.  We  again 
crossed  in  a  boat  the  canal  of  Gizeh;  and  then,  as  the 
waters  of  the  Nile  were  still  high,  and  covered  the  land, 
although  subsiding  and  leaving  a  rich  soil  at  its  ebb,  our 
path  lay  along  an  embankment  or  dyke,  artificially  raised, 
and  along  which  causeway  many  were  passing  and  repassing 
with  loaded  camels,  donkeys,  mules,  and  horses.  All 
seemed  activity.  At  length  we  reached  a  part  of  the  em- 
bankment where  we  must  again  take  a  boat,  and  were 
detained  an  hour  in  doing  so.  We  were  then  on  the 
waters  of  the  lake,  which  run  on  beyond  Sakhara,  where 
the  bodies  of  the  dead  of  the  ancient  metropolis  of  Egypt, 
Memphis,  were  conveyed,  or  ferried  over,  for  interment  in 
the  tombs  on  the  hill  near  the  pyramid  of  Sakhara  and  its 
vicinity,  constituting  all  that  part  of  the  country  one  vast 
necropolis.  And  there  is  affirmed  to  be  the  famous  spot, 
whence  originated  the  fables  in  the  Grecian  mythology, 
concerning  Charon,  and  Styx,  and  Acheron. 

Having  sailed  about  two  miles  on  the  lake,  we  landed, 
and  proceeded  direct  to  the  great  pyramid  of  Cheops. 
Some  stout  Bedouin  Arabs  met  us,  and  then  their  Sheik. 
It  was  agreed  that  three  men  should  accompany  me,  and 
I  found  their  services  most  essential.  There  were  up- 
wards of  two  hundred  steps  to  take  in  the  ascent,  averaging 
rather  more  than  two  feet  each.  I  found  it  necessary  to 
pause  and  fetch  breath  two  or  three  times  in  going  up, 
and  felt  sincerely  glad  when  the  task  was  accomj)lishe(l, 
when  I  stood  on  the  summit  and  gazed  on  the  wondrous 


4:'20  ASCENT  OF  THE  PYRAMIDS. 

scene  around  me.  Not  till  then  had  I  obtained  anything 
like  a  just  and  impressive  conception  of  the  enormous 
magnitude  of  this  stupendous  pile  of  masonry.  I  had  I'ead 
that  the  base  of  this  pyramid  must  be  of  about  the  same 
extent  as  the  square  of  Lincoln's  inn  fields — that  the 
quantity  of  stone  employed  in  its  erection  must  be  eighty- 
five  millions  cubic  feet,  or  in  weight  six  millions  of  tons — 
that  twenty  years  were  consumed  in  its  erection — that  one 
hundred  thousand  men  worked  at  a  time,  and  were  relieved 
every  three  months  ;  but  a  sk/ht  of  it  gave  me  an  impression 
that  no  written  descriptions  can  convey, — at  least  it  has 
given  me  an  impression  that  I  think,  in  vividness  and 
force,  can  never  be  lost.  The  only  drawback  I  felt  to  the 
enjoyment,  was  the  incessant  woriy  and  annoyance  of  the 
people  for  "  backsheesh"  (gifts). 

The  scene  presented  to  the  eye  from  the  summit  is 
magnificent.  The  atmosphere  is  so  clear,  that;  objects  are 
distinctly  seen  from  an  unusually  great  distance.  The  green 
valley  of  the  Nile  is  spread  out  to  view  on  one  side,  and  on 
the  other,  the  Lybian  desert,  an  ocean  of  interminable 
and  shifting  sands,  meets  the  horizon.  Nature's  luxuri- 
ance smiles  on  the  one  hand,  and  her  inhospitable  desert 
repels  you,  as  a  fearful  contrast,  on  the  other. 

After  descending,  I  entered  the  pyramid,  and  visited  the 
chambers  of  the  mighty  dead.  The  entrances  and  pas- 
sages have  been  so  abundantly  and  accurately  described 
by  various  writers,  especially  Sir  Gardner  Wilkinson,  that 
I  should  deem  it  superfluous  to  attempt  anything  of  the 
kind.  I  will  only  add,  that  I  visited  the  granite-walled 
chambers  of  the  king,  and  saw  the  empty  sarcophagus, 
supposed  to  have  contained,  originally,  tlie  remains  of 
Cheops,  by  whom,  it  is  believed,  the  p}-ramid  had  been 
constructed.  According  to  Sir  G.  "Wilkinson,  Cheops 
ascended  the  throne  of  Eg}'pt  2123  years  before  the  Chris- 
tian era. 

I  next  paid  a  visit  to  the  second  great  pp'amid.  whose 
apex  is   still  cased  with  a  facing  of  mortar.     This  casing 


THE  SPHINX.  4Q1 

hangs  projecting  over  the  portion  of  masonry  immediately 
below  it,  and  renders  the  ascent  there  extremely  difficult 
and  dangerous  to  an  unpractised  hand.  Of  course  I  did 
not  attempt  it ;  but  my  guides  were  clamorous  that  I  would 
see  them  do  it  in  five  minutes,  and  give  them  "  back- 
sheesh" for  their  trouble.  I  told  the  man  who  was  most 
anxious  to  give  this  display  of  his  agility,  and  obtain  the 
fee,  that  I  was  unwilling  to  tempt  him  to  risk  breaking 
his  neck,  and  leave  his  wife  a  widow,  and  his  children 
fatherless.  He  smiled,  but  assured  me  he  had  no  fear  on 
that  ground,  and  if  I  would  only  pay  him,  he  would  take 
all  the  consequences.  I  offered  a  shilling,  and  up  the  man 
went,  climbing  away,  till  he  so  diminished  in  sight,  as  to 
look  like  a  jackall,  as  my  dragoman  remarked,  calling  it, 
however,  "shackall;"  and  exactly  at  the  expiration  of  five 
minutes  he  was  at  the  top,  shouting  his  huzza.  He  brought 
me  a  specimen  of  the  casing,  and  received  his  reward. 
There  is  a  good  deal  of  granite,  or  rather  syenite,  used  in 
the  construction  of  this  pyramid. 

I  then  visited  several  of  the  tombs  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  these  pyramids,  and  saw  the  black  basalt  sarco- 
phagi, noticed  by  all  the  various  writers  on  the  antiquities 
of  these  localities.  It  was  near  here,  that  the  gold  ring 
bearing  the  name  of  Suphis  (the  same  as  Cheops),  was 
found,  and  which  is  now  in  possession  of  Dr.  Abbott,  of 
Cairo.  Not  far  from  this  is  the  Sphinx,  cut  out  of  the 
solid  rock,  before  whose  immense,  but  not  revolting  fea- 
tures, I  stood  for  some  time  silently  gazing  on  this  enor- 
mous mass, — this  emblematic  representation  of  combined 
intelligence  and  power,  i.  e.  of  mental  and  physical  force, 
and  hence  emblematically  denoting  the  sovereign  of  the 
country. 

I  found  all  this  wandering  about,  and  the  excitement  of 
novelty  and  interest,  extremely  fatiguing,  and  gladly  souglit 
rest  in  one  of  the  ancient  tombs,  cut  in  the  scarf  of  the 
rock  on  which  the  second  pyramid  stands.  It  is  often 
used  for  the  same  purpose.     It  is  an  excavation  about  six 


422  A  NIGHT  IN  THE  TOMBS. 

feet  deep  by  eight  feet  long,  and,  perhaps,  eight  feet  broad. 
I  had  brought  a  coverlet  and  some  warm  clothing  for  the 
night,  so  there  I  sat  down.  The  men  and  boys  took  charge 
of  the  donkeys  below  ;  my  guide  prepared  the  evening 
meal,  and,  having  paid  i-espectful  attentions  to  it,  I  tried 
to  compose  myself  to  sleep,  but  in  vain  ;  the  mind  was 
too  much  excited  by  all  I  had  seen,  and  all  that  surrounded 
me  at  the  moment.  There,  at  the  entrance  of  the  tomb, 
sat  the  Sheikh  of  the  village,  who  had  attended  me  through 
the  day,  and  who  had  kindly  invited  me  to  his  house  for 
the  night ;  there  were  many  loquacious  natives  around 
the  spot, — for  some  other  travellers  were  also  at  the  Py- 
ramids ;  and  there,  stretched  out  before  me,  the  extensive 
plain,  reaching  to  the  Lybian  desert.  The  night  was  fine, 
not  cold,  and  not  admitting  the  use  of  all  the  warm  cloth- 
ing I  had  brought  with  me.  Besides  all  that,  I  found,  to 
my  annoyance,  Egypt  is  still  Egypt,  and  its  very  dust  seems 
instinct  Avith  life;  fleas,  flies,  and  mosquitoes  understand 
their  profession  without  any  mistake,  and  enjoy  their  in- 
stinctive appetites  with  as  much  gout  as  ever ;  and  all  that 
to  the  traveller's  cost.  My  head  and  face  were  stung  through 
the  night,  as  though  some  malignant  fairies  were  ever  and 
anon  whisking  me  with  stinging-nettles,  and  laughing  the 
more  saucily  when  I  cried  a  truce. 

Rising  before  daylight,  and  taking  some  refreshment,  I 
set  out  across  the  plain  for  Abouseer,  rather  more  than 
seven  miles  to  the  south  of  the  Great  Pyramid.  The 
pyramids  of  Abouseer  are  about  a  mile  to  the  north  of  the 
village.  I  felt  no  particular  inducement  to  inspect  them, 
but  passed  forward  to  Sakhara,  where  the  chief  objects  of 
interest  are  found,  the  Mummy  Pits,  many  of  which  are 
continually  being  opened,  and  their  contents  exhumed ; — 
they  are  ibis,  oxen  and  sheep,  cat  and  serpent  mummies, 
and  those  of  other  animals  also.  The  ibises  (which  my 
guide  preferred  designating  "  gooses")  have  been  put  into 
earthen  jars,  like  our  refining  sugar-pots,  with  lids.  In- 
side these    are  the  mummies,  wrapped  in  the  old  native 


MUMMY  PITS.  423 

cloth  of  Egypt;  and  some  of  these  are  very  perfect  in  ex- 
terior appearance.  The  human  mummy-pits  are  also  very 
numerous  at  Sakhara.  The  ground  is  covered  with  the 
fragments  of  bones,  skulls,  cloth,  jars,  and  coffins.  Many 
objects  of  curiosity  are  found  there.  Some  few  are  of 
value,  and  it  is  to  procure  these  that  the  Arabs  are  now  so 
busy  exliuming  the  remains  of  the  long-deceased  and  long- 
buried  inhabitants  of  ancient  Egypt.  There  seems  in  this 
something  revolting.  One  could  wish  these  slumbering 
ashes  might  have  been  left  to  repose  till  awakened  by  the 
ti-umpet-soiind  of  the  archangel.  Their  present  treatment 
gratifies  curiosity,  finds  employment  to  a  few  natives,  who 
obtain  a  scanty  livelihood  by  this  traffic  in  the  cerements  and 
ornaments  of  the  dead  ;  and,  what  we  deem  of  more  import- 
ance, they  bring  out,  unconsciously,  many  illustrations  of 
Scripture,  and  demonstrations  of  its  truth. 

The  Pyramids  of  Dashoor  I  saw  at  the  distance  of  about 
six  miles,  but  my  time  did  not  allow  me  to  visit  them. 

Directing  my  steps  homeward,  I  wished  to  visit  the 
ruins  of  ancient  Memphis,  especially  to  see  the  famous 
statue  of  Sesostris,  discovered  by  Signior  Caviglia  and  Mr. 
Sloane.  But  the  state  of  the  inundation  of  the  Nile  ren- 
dered this  impracticable,  as  nearly  the  whole  of  the  statue 
was  still  under  water. 

I  passed  over  an  immense  tract  of  land,  evidently  once 
occupied  with  human  habitations,  once  instinct  with  life 
and  intellect,  but  where  only  ruins  now  remain — memen- 
tos of  the  past  generations  of  men,  and  of  the  evanescent 
character  of  all  human  greatness.  All  this  site  belonged 
to  the  ancient  city  of  Memphis,  which  must  have  been 
indeed  of  large  extent. 

I  was  anxious  to  cross  the  Nile  about  this  point,  that  I 
might  come  to  the  village  of  Torah,  in  the  immediate 
neighbourhood  of  which  the  quarries  exist  in  the  Mokattam 
range  of  hills,  from  whence  the  stones  were  obtained  for 
the  erection  of  the  pyramids,  but  could  not  obtain  a  boat 
to  cross  from  the  Sakhara  side  of  tlic  canal,  or  sheet  of 


424  SUNDAY  IN  CAIKO. 

water,  that  must  be  crossed  at  that  season  before  reaching 
the  Nile.  Could  I  have  crossed  there,  and  the  Nile  also, 
in  the  same  direction,  I  should  have  come  immediately 
upon  what  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  scene  of  the  labours 
of  the  ancient  Israelites.  I  was  forced  to  cross  the  Nile 
nearer  to  Cairo,  after  continuing  my  route  along  the  em- 
bankment to  a  spot  beyond  the  sheet  of  water  already 
alluded  to,  and  did  not  then  proceed  back  again  along  the 
side  of  the  Nile  to  which  I  crossed  to  visit  the  locality  of 
Torah.  I  saw  it  at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  miles.  I 
came  then  upon  Bezateen,  where  the  Jews  have  their 
'burial-place,  and  evidently  of  great  antiquity.  This  I 
walked  over  with  much  interest.  It  is  a  large  piece  of 
gi'ound,  and  covered  with  grave-stones  bearing  inscriptions 
in  Hebrew,  of  the  Syrian  character,  and  of  others  much 
more  ancient,  as  it  would  seem. 

I  then  returned  to  my  hotel  again,  took  a  warm  bath, 
— so  recruiting  after  two  fatiguing  days,  and  passed  the 
"  balance"  of  the  evening  with  my  friends  the  Lieders,  and 
talked  over  arrangements  for  a  visit  to  the  Holy  Land. 

Next  day  was  Sunday,  and  I  went  early  in  the  morn- 
ing to  the  Coptic  church.  The  service  commences  about 
daylight.  I  was  not  there  quite  so  early;  but  many  came  in 
after  me.  In  fact,  some  were  moving  about  the  whole  time ; 
and  the  painful  impression  this  produced  on  my  mind  was, 
that  there  could  be  but  little  of  serious  and  earnest  religion 
in  the  minds  of  the  worshippers.  It  seemed  like  going 
mechanically  through  a  routine  of  service,  in  which  the 
affections  of  the  heart  were  not  much  engaged.  The 
church,  as  a  building,  was  not  large.  It  was  lighted  with 
lamps  and  candles ;  but  the  light  itself  was  dim.  I  should 
say  itAvas  altogether  very  dim.  The  walls  were  ornamented 
with  pictures,  which  did  not  seem  to  me  to  possess  much 
merit  as  works  of  art,  and  less  as  aids  to  devotion.  The 
service — the  liturgical  service — was  being  read  in  Coptic ; 
the  gospel  and  epistles  were  read  in  Ai-abic.  An  officer 
was  burning  incense  and  offering  it,  with  many  profound 


COPTIC  AND  GREEK  CHURCHES.  425 

bows,  to  the  patriarch.  Worshippers,  as  they  came  in, 
bowed  down  before  him,  touched  the  ground  with  their 
foreheads,  and  rose  up  to  receive  his  benediction.  I  felt 
disgusted,  I  confess,  with  this  abject  servility  on  the  part 
of  the  people,  and  the  imperturbable  dignity  of  the  patriarch 
in  being  worshipped  in  the  temple  of  God,  as  if  he  were 
God  or  a  representative  of  God,  in  a  far  different  sense 
from  that  which  Paul  the  apostle  felt  when  he  said,  "  Now, 
then,  as  ambassadors  for  Christ,  as  his  representatives,  we 
beseech  you,  be  ye  reconciled  to  God."  It  was  painful  to 
find  that  no  women  were  present.  They  do  not  enter  the 
inner  court  of  the  church.  The  only  women  I  saw  near 
there  were  sitting  just  at  the  entrance,  and  begging  alms. 
They  seemed  to  have  nothing  whatever  to  do  with  the  ser- 
vice, but  were  waiting  to  obtain  some  small  donations. 

I  understood  from  Mr.  Lieder  that  his  edition  of  the 
Four  Gospels,  in  the  Coptic,  has  been  carried  through  the 
press  in  England  by  the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society, 
and  is  much  esteemed  and  used  by  these  Coptic  Christians. 
This  word  "  Coptic"  seems  to  be  a  corruption  of  the  old 
term  "Egyptic,"  which,  omitting  the  initial  letter  "E," 
becomes  "  Gyptic,"  pronounced  "  Coptic,"  of  which  "  Cop- 
tic "  is  a  mere  modification.  The  Copts  are  said  to  be  the 
descendants  of  the  early  Christians  of  Egypt — Egyptian 
Christians — who  have  regarded  Mark  as  their  Apostle. 
The  Coptic  population  of  Egypt  may  amount  to  200,000 
souls;  but  in  Cairo  it  is  thought  there  are  not  moi-e  than 
10,000  or  15,000.  Sir  G.  Wilkinson,  however,  gives  their 
number  at  60,000.  They  are  found  most  numerously  in 
Upper  Egypt,  where  they  constitute,  to  a  large  extent,  the 
village  population. 

From  the  Coptic  church  I  proceeded  to  the  Greek  church, 
which  is  a  modem,  spacious,  and  splendid  building.  Ser- 
vice had  commenced  ;  but  on  entering  I  was  politely  di- 
rected to  a  si)ot  where  I  could  obtain  a  full  view  of  all  that 
passed,  near  the  chair  of  the  patriarch.  There  seemed  niore 
life  and  earnestness  among  the  worshippers.     All  took  j)art 


4-26  EPISCOPAL  SERVICE. 

in  the  scn'ice,  nearly  the  whole  of  which  was  chanted.  The 
priests  or  readers  commenced  the  passage  hy  a  few  impress- 
ive notes,  and  were  then  joined  by  the  whole  congregation. 
The  voices  were  harmonious,  and  the  effect,  as  a  whole,  was 
animated  and  pleasing ;  and  yet,  to  my  mind,  the  constant 
bowing  of  the  worshippers,  their  incessantly  making  the 
sign  of  the  cross  on  the  forehead  and  the  chest,  Avas  an 
interruption.  It  was  as  if  the  congregation  was  performing 
a  series  of  g}'mnastic  exercises  of  a  somewhat  quiet  kind, 
fit  for  a  Sunday.  Some  of  the  worshippers  were  slowly 
pacing  round  the  walls  inside,  and  devoutly  boAving  and 
crossing  themselves  before  the  pictures  of  the  saints.  The 
congregation  was  standing  during  the  whole  service.  The 
patriarch  led  several  portions  of  it.  Incense  was  offered 
to  him,  as  in  the  Coptic  church,  and  just  as  it  also  is  in  the 
Eoman  Catholic  churches.  There  was  a  lofty  gallery,  oc- 
cupied exclusively  by  the  female  part  of  the  congi-egation. 
Their  angelic  elevation  prevented  my  getting  any  veiy  dis- 
tinct view  of  them.  There  were  not  many  present;  but 
they  were  taking  part  in  the  service,  in  the  same  manner 
as  the  men,  as  I  perceived  by  their  movements. 

From  the  Greek  church  I  returned  to  my  hotel,  took 
breakfast,  and  then  attended  the  English  episcopal  service. 
It  was  conducted  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Kruse,  Mr.  Lieder's  asso- 
ciate. Mr.  K.  delivered  a  sound  and  valuable  discourse. 
The  congregation  did  not  amount  to  more  than  thirty  or 
forty  persons ;  but  still  it  seemed  like  light  in  the  midst  of 
the  surrounding  dimness  and  darkness.  It  formed  a  wit- 
ness for  God  and  truth,  amidst  much  en-or  and  delusion. 
I  trust  the  Church  ]\Iissionary  Society  will  still  maintain 
this  important  station.  Not  only  would  it  be  the  loss  of 
much  valuable  labour  to  abandon  it  now,  after  so  much  has 
been  expended  on  it,  but  it  would  involve  the  removal  of 
the  only  faithful  exhibition  of  the  truth  in  the  midst  of 
the  too  formal  and  deteriorated  churches  of  the  East. 

On  the  Sunday  evening  I  gave  an  address  in  a  spacious 
room  in  Mr.  Lieder's  house.     In  addition  to  the  members 


THE  CITADEL.  427 

of  Mr.  Lieder's  family,  and  a  few  Europeans,  there  were 
also  present  several  of  the  young  men  who  had  been 
trained  by  Mr.  Lieder  in  his  institution,  but  who  are 
mostly  identified  with  the  Greek  Church. 

The  next  day  I  visited  the  Citadel,  and  the  various 
objects  of  special  interest  there;  among  these  the  most 
prominent  is  the  magnificent  mosque  now  building,  and 
in  which  are  deposited  the  remains  of  Mehemet  Ali.  The 
dome  is  very  splendid,  and  the  colouring  of  the  paint- 
ing exceedingly  rich.  The  mosque  is  an  open  square, 
surrounded  by  a  single  row  of  columns,  all  of  polished 
Oriental  alabaster.  The  architects  have  been  Europeans, 
but  all  the  workmanship  is  performed  by  Ai'abs.  Many 
years  have  been  consumed  on  the  building,  and  many 
more  must  elapse  before  its  completion.  The  remains  of 
Mehemet  Ali  are  inclosed  within  a  temporary  railing  in 
one  corner  of  the  building.  A  very  splendid  chandelier 
from  France  is  suspended  in  a  room  of  his  palace,  to  be 
placed  over  the  tomb  when  the  mosque  is  finished.  I 
visited  also  the  palace  of  the  late  pasha.  It  is  not  now 
inhabited.  Although  not  in  the  perfect  taste  of  European 
palaces,  it  is  not  altogether  devoid  of  beauty  and  splen- 
dour. The  drawing-room  is  magnificent.  The  present 
viceroy,  Abbas  Pasha,  has  held  his  court  there. 

The  view  from  the  platform  of  the  citadel  is  most  delight- 
ful and  extensive.  It  commands  Cairo  with  its  numerous 
mosques  and  minarets,  the  Arsenal,  the  Eoomaylee,  the 
splendid  mosque  of  Sultan  Hassan,  and  in  the  distance 
the  Pyramids,  the  Lybian  hills,  and  the  valley  of  the  Nile 
to  Sakhara  on  the  south,  and  to  the  jjoint  of  the  Delta  on 
the  north. 

The  spot  also  is  shown  near  the  Pioomaylee  gate,  where 
Emir  Bey  escaped,  during  the  fearful  massacre  of  tlie 
Mamelukes  (or  Mcmlooks)  in  March,  1811,  by  leaping  his 
horse  over  a  gap  in  the  wall,  which  was  at  that  time  much 
dilapidated.* 

*  At  the  time  of  the  massucrc  of  the  Mcmlooks,  Soolayman  Agha 


428  MAHOMMED  ALI  DECEIVED. 

I  next  visited  Old  Cairo,  about  three  miles  from  the 
comparatively  modern  city  of  Cairo.  It  stands  on  the 
site  where  anciently  Egyptian  Babylon  stood,  and  the 
Eoman  station,  south  of  the  mosque  of  Amer,  is  the  for- 
tress which  was  besieged  by  the  Moslem  invader.  That 
mosque  is  the  oldest  built  in  Egypt.  It  is  square,  with 
colonnades  round  the  four  sides.  At  the  east  end  are 
six  rows  of  columns,  and  altogether  there  are  not  less 
than  230.  The  mosque  has  undergone  many  repairs  ;  and, 
in  connexion  with  those  made  by  Murad  Bey,  an  anec- 
dote worth  reading  is  related  by  Sir  G.  Wilkinson.* 

The  two  columns,  standing  inside  the  square  within  ten 
inches  of  each  other,  near  the  entrance,  were  pointed  out 
to  me,  between  which  it  is  said,  all  Mussulmans  can  pass. 
Of  course  unbelievers  cannot.     I  should  be  sorry  to  be 

was  already  a  friend  of  Mahommed  Ali's,  from  whom  he  received  an 
indirect  intimation  "  not  to  go  to  the  Citadel"  on  that  occasion,  and 
as  soon  as  order  had  been  restored  in  Cairo,  the  Pasha  made  diligent 
search  for  him,  hoping  to  find  he  had  escaped  the  indiscriminate 
slaughter  of  his  comrades.  A  confidential  messenger  conducted  him 
to  Mahommed  Ali.  He  was  overjoyed  to  see  him,  and  his  first 
question  was  respecting  his  escape.  "  I  disguised  myself  as  a 
woman,"  said  the  Memlook.  "  How  ! — Tvith  that  voice,  and  that 
beard?  I  am  sure  I  should  ha\e  discovered  you."  "I  think 
not,"  was  the  reply  ;  and  the  con-\ersation  then  turned  to  other 
matters.  A  few  days  after  this,  a  stranger,  dressed  in  the  usual  veil 
and  black  habbarah  of  the  Cairene  women,  appeared  before  the 
pasha,  complaining  of  ill-treatment  from  her  husband.  He  pro- 
nounced judgment  in  the  case,  and  orders  were  given  that  the 
injured  T\ife  should  be  relieved  from  her  husband's  injustice  ;  when 
the  complainant,  throwing  up  the  veil,  and  disclosing  the  face  of  a 
man,  asked  the  pasha  if  he  acknowledged  himself  deceived  by  the 
voice  and  appearance  of  SoolajTuan  Agha.  Tliis  mcident  was  the 
cause  of  great  merriment  to  the  pasha  and  his  ^lemlook  friends. 

*  "  The  mosque  has  undergone  several  repairs,  and  in  Murad  Bey's 
time,  who  was  the  last  restorer  of  its  crumbling  walls,  some  Cufic 
MSS.  were  discovered  whUe  excavating  the  substructions,  written 
on  the  finest  parchment. 

"  The  origin  of  their  discovery,  and  the  cause  of  these  repairs,  are 
thus  related  by  M.  Marcell : — '  Murad  Bey  being  destitute  of  the 


FAMILY  TOMB  OF  MAHOMMED  ALL  429 

put  to  the  test,  and  I  think  many  others  in  Cairo  would 
also,  even  the  devout  believers  in  the  prophet,  unless 
subjected  to  some  very  rigid  mode  of  fasting,  as  prepara- 
tory to  the  experiment. 

I  went  to  see  the  tomb  of  the  family  of  Mahommed  All. 
His  remains  are  in  the  new  mosque  in  the  citadel,  but 
several  members  of  his  family  repose  in  the  family  tomb, 
of  which  I  now  speak.  Here  are  two  of  his  sons — Toos- 
soom,  (the  father  of  Abbas  Pasha,  now  viceroy,)  and 
Ismail ;  also  his  son-in-law,  the  fierce  Defterdar  Bey,  his 
sister,  first  wife,  and  many  others.  The  tomb  is  carpeted, 
and,  as  I  was  not  asked  to  take  my  shoes  off,  the  edge  of 
the  carpet  was  carefully  turned  up,  that  I  might  not  defile 
it  by  my  profane  and  unbelieving  feet.  In  the  mosque  of 
Hassan,  the  largest  and  handsomest  in  Cairo,  the  door- 
keepers provided  me,  on  entering  the  building,  with  a  large 
pair  of  rough  overall  shoes,  made  of  common  matting, 
which  exempted  me  from  the  necessity  of  taking  off  my 
own.  I  had  simply  to  slip  about  in  these  substitutes. 
This  mosque  is  a  vast  and  lofty  edifice.  The  exterior, 
however,  seemed  to  me  far  superior  to  the  interior.    lama 

means  of  carrying  on  the  war  against  his  rival  Ibrahim,  sought  to 
replenish  his  coffers  by  levying  a  large  sum  from  the  Jews  of  Cau-o. 
To  escape  from  his  exactions,  they  had  recourse  to  stratagem.  After 
assuring  him  they  had  not  a  single  para,  they  promised,  on  condition 
of  abstaining  from  his  demands,  to  reveal  a  secret  which  would  make 
him  possessor  of  immense  wealth. 

' '  '  His  "word  was  given,  and  they  assured  him  that  certain  archives 
mentioned  a  large  iron  chest,  deposited  in  the  mosque  of  Amer, 
either  by  its  founder  or  by  one  of  his  successors  in  the  government 
of  Egypt,  which  was  filled  with  invaluable  treasure.  Murad  I5cy 
went  immediately  to  the  mosque,  and,  under  the  plea  of  repairs, 
excavated  the  spot  indicated  by  his  informants,  where,  in  fact,  he 
found  a  secret  underground  ch"'nber,  containing  an  iron  chest,  half 
destroyed  by  rust,  and  full — not  of  gold — but  of  manuscript  leaves 
of  the  Koran,  on  vellum  of  a  beautiful  quality,  written  in  fine  Cufic 
characters.'  This  treasure  was  not  one  to  satisfy  the  cupidity  of 
the  Memlook  Bey,  and  it  was  left  to  the  Sheikh  of  the  mosque,  by 
whom  it  was  sold  to  different  uidividuals." 


430  OBJECTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  CAIBO. 

te  Soltan  Hassan,  is  its  proper  designation.  It  stands 
immediately  below  the  citadel.  Some  dark  stains  on  the 
floor  were  pointed  out  to  me  as  indicating  the  places  where 
several  Mamelukes  were  killed,  who  had  fled  there  in  vain, 
as  to  an  asylum,  in  the  destruction  of  their  body  in  1811. 

Besides  those  more  prominent  objects  of  special  interest 
in  Cairo  which  I  have  already  noticed,  there  were  others, 
scarcely  inferior,  that  daily  attracted  my  attention  during 
my  stay ;  such  as,  for  example,  the  strictly  Oriental  and 
Saracenic  character  of  the  city  itself,  the  narrow  streets, 
innumerable  bazaars,  the  four  hundred  mosques  and 
minarets,  (though  many  are  in  ruins,)  the  picturesque  style 
of  the  buildings  generally,  the  elaborate  fretwork  of  the 
projecting  windows  in  most  houses,  the  endless  variety  of 
costume,  the  thronging  multitude  in  the  streets,  the  pub- 
lic fountains,  the  numerous  cafes,  the  lounging  of  the 
Turks  at  their  shop  fronts  and  doors,  the  singular  dresses 
of  the  different  classes  of  civil  and  militaiy  ofiicers,  the 
strangely  uninviting  vests  and  dresses  of  the  female  portion 
of  the  population,  the  files  of  camels,  the  Avater-carriers, 
the  tout  ensemble  of  the  city.  There  is  about  all  this  an 
indescribable  chann  of  novelty,  an  impressiveness  that  one 
can  only  realise  by  being  actually  on  the  spot,  and  the 
minute  detail  of  which  would  be  insufi'erably  tedious. 

I  had  now,  after  much  inquiry,  made  up  my  mind  to 
return  to  England  through  Syria.  It  was  my  highest 
wish  to  pass  a  little  time  in  the  Holy  Land,  "  to  stand 
within  thy  gates,  0  Jerusalem,"  whither  the  ancient  tribes 
of  Israel  went  up ;  and  to  glance  at  some  of  these 
localities,  rendered  the  most  memorable  in  the  historj-  of 
our  world,  by  their  connexion  with  the  history  of  man's 
redemption. 

I  ascertained  that  it  was  not  probable  I  should  find  any 
vessel  at  the  time  at  Alexandria  or  Damietta,  proceeding 
to  the  coast  of  Palestine,  and  I  had.  better  prepare  for  a 
journey  across  the  Desert  from  Cairo  to  El  Arish,  and  from 
thence  to  Jerusalem.     There  I  should  be  able  to  ascertain 


CONVEYANCE  FOR  TEAVELLING. 


431 


whether  I  must  proceed  to  Jaffa,  or  to  Beirut,  in  order  to 
meet  with  conveyances  to  Europe. 

Mrs.  Lieder  most  kindly  undertook  to  make  all  the 
requisite  arrangements  for  my  journey,  such  as  procuring 
a  suitable  attendant  (dragoman),  engaging  sheikhs,  with 
men  and  camels,  and  purchasing  all  the  various  supplies 
which  I  should  need  during  my  journey  of  about  fifteen 
days,  which  would  be  occupied  in  reaching  Jerusalem. 
Foreseeing  that  riding  that  length  of  time  on  the  back 
of  a  camel  would  be  attended  with  more  fatigue  and 
inconvenience  than  I  was  anxious  to  indulge  in,  I  readily 
accepted    the    suggestion    of    travelling    in     a   tetrawan 


^ 


(takhtarawan),  a  sort  of  palanquin,  carried  by  means  of 
long  poles,  between  two  camels.  The  conveyance  is 
swung  between  these  useful  but  extraordinary  animals, 
in  tandem  style,  that  is,  not  between  them  abreast  of 
each  other,  but  so  suspended  as  to  swing  between  the 
tail  of  the  first  and  the  nusc  of  the  second,  as  in  the 
above  engi'aving. 

We  had  some  difficulty  in  obtaining  a  good  and  conli- 


432  INSURKECTION  IN  ALEPPO. 

dential  attendant  for  the  journey.  I  was  just  closing  an 
arrangement  with  one,  when  he  rose  in  his  demands,  and 
became,  it  was  thought,  exorbitant.  He  had  asked  £35 
to  take  me  to  Jerusalem,  providing  all  the  requisite 
camels,  men,  provisions,  &c.,  and  the  tetrawan.  As  he 
had  diflficulty  in  procuring  this  latter  means  of  convey- 
ance, I  offered  to  purchase  one  for  myself  at  £10,  to  pay 
£30,  and  make  him  a  present  of  the  tetrawan  at  the  end 
of  the  journey,  if  I  found  that  he  had  been  a  faithful  and 
diligent  attendant.  However,  he  declined  it,  and  seemed 
indisposed  to  go  at  any  remuneration.  He  said,  he  feared 
the  rains  and  the  cold  weather  coming  on.  Besides  all 
this,  the  present  was  the  season  for  parties  to  proceed 
up  the  Nile,  usually  a  three  months'  excursion.  Good 
dragomen  were  therefore  much  in  demand ;  they  know 
their  own  value,  and  are  quite  competent  to  make  a 
good  bargain  for  themselves. 

Just  at  this  time  news  reached  Cairo  of  an  insuiTec- 
tion  in  Aleppo  against  the  Christians,  which  was  said 
to  be  extending  into  Syria  as  far  as  Jerusalem.  It  was 
said  that  a  violent  and  bigoted  Mussulman,  Abdallah  Bey, 
had  been  exciting  a  tumult  against  the  Christians,  insist- 
ing on  th^r  wearing  the  distinctive  and  opprobrious 
badge  of  a  black  turban,  and  a  particular  kind  of  dress, 
and  ceasing  to  ride  on  horses  or  mules,  and  using  only 
donkeys,  as  in  former  times,  under  less  liberal  govern- 
ments than  the  present.  Finding  the  Christians  refus- 
ing to  submit  to  such  exactions,  the  Mahommedans  rose 
against  them,  committed  many  gross  offences  against 
the  Christian  families,  attended  with  robbery,  and  in  some 
cases  with  murder.  General  Bem,  of  Hungarian  fame, 
the  commander  of  the  city,  had  not  sufficient  troops  to 
quell  the  insurrection.  He  threatened  to  bombard  the 
town,  and  ultimately  did  so.  The  Christian  part  of  the 
inhabitants  defended  themselves  in  the  city  against  the 
Mussulmans,  but  those  in  the  suburbs  suffered  severely, 
and  their  churches  were  burnt  to  the  ground. 


EGYPTIAN    ANTIQUITIES.  433 

With  such  intelligence,  it  was  deemed  advisable  to  wait  a 
few  days,  just  to  ascertain  that  there  would  be  no  serious 
risk  incurred  by  a  visit  to  Palestine.  And  then,  satis- 
factory information  having  been  received,  I  completed  my 
arrangements.  Mrs.  Lieder  procured  for  me  an  attendant, 
and  Mr.  Lieder  very  kindly  afforded  me  his  efficient 
services  in  accompanying  me  to  the  British  Consulate  and 
getting  the  stamped,  sealed,  and  signed  agreements  made 
with  the  Sheikhs,  who  were  responsible  for  my  conveyance 
to  Jerusalem. 

During  my  visit  at  their  house,  Mrs.  Lieder  kindly 
allowed  me  to  read  a  letter  which  she  was  about  to  forward 
to  a  friend  in  England,  on  the  subject  of  the  absence  of  any 
indications  of  Idolatry  in  the  early  history  of  Egyi:)t — no 
paintings,  sculptures,  remains,  or  hieroglyphics  of  any 
kind,  had  been  found  which  implied  the  worship  of  animals, 
prior  to  the  18th  dynasty,  which  commenced  with  Amosis, 
four  years  before  the  birth  of  Moses.  The  subject  is  one  of 
deep  interest  to  the  biblical  student.  This  Amosis  is  marked 
by  Sir  G.  Wilkinson  as  the  "  neiv  king"  (or  dynasty)  "  that 
knew  not  Josejih."  Perhaps,  with  that  change  of  dynasty 
came  in  the  new  form  of  religion — an  idolatrous  system 
supervening  on  the  old  patriarchal  and  traditional  religion, 
which  up  to  that  period  had  prevailed  in  Egypt. 

On  leaving  Cairo  I  was  thankful  in  being  able  to 
procure,  through  the  polite  and  assiduous  attentions  of 
Mrs.  Lieder,  aided  by  her  excellent  friend  Mrs.  Tyler, 
some  Egj'ptian  curiosities.  I  suppose  every  traveller  visit- 
ing such  a  countiy  as  Egypt  is  anxious  to  procure  these. 
It  is  full  of  antiquities,  and  looks  like  a  great  piece  of  anti- 
quity itself.  The  very  natives,  donkey- boys  and  all,  have 
learnt  to  appreciate  the  European  appetite  for  collections 
of  this  nature.  They  try  to  satisfy  us  for  their  own  advan- 
tage. They  have  acquired  our  popular  name  for  these 
objects  of  research,  and  every  where  you  are  importuned  to 
purchase  some  of  these  "  antiques."  Not  a  few,  I  believe,  of 
these  remarkable  relics,  have  been  manufactured  within  the 

F  p 


434  NEW  PALACE  OF  ABBAS  PASHA. 

last  twenty  years,  in  the  potteries  in  Staffordshire  !  It  re- 
quires, therefore,  some  little  care  in  making  purchases,  not 
to  he  over  credulous.  The  greatest  advantage  is,  to  have 
"  a  faithful  adviser"  on  the  spot,  and  such,  I  gratefully 
think,  it  was  my  happiness  to  possess. 

I  left  Cairo  early  on  the  afternoon  of  the  18th  November, 
and  soon  reached  the  mosque  and  tomb  of  Melek  Adel.  It 
must  have  been  a  splendid  mosque  in  the  days  of  its  per- 
fection. It  is  of  the  Saracenic  order,  and  now  in  ruins. 
The  dome  remains,  and  which  is  curiously  and  very  richly 
wrought,  I  hoped  we  should  have  reached  Metariyeh  that 
evening,  about  eight  miles  from  Cairo,  but  my  people  had 
resolved  on  encamping  near  the  mosque  above  named, 
pleading  that  such  was  their  custom,  and  that  by  putting 
up  the  tents  there,  and  awaiting  there  the  first  night  of  the 
journey,  they  could  better  ascertain  if  anything  was  yet 
wanting,  and  at  once  procure  it  from  Cairo.  I  found  it 
best  to  submit  to  their  plan. 

The  next  morning  I  walked  fonvard  some  distance,  then 
got  into  my  tetrawan,  and  was  thus,  for  the  first  time  in 
my  life,  carried  by  camels.  I  found  it  much  easier  than 
wagon-travelling  in  South  Africa.  There  is  a  slight  jolting 
motion,  occasioned  by  the  dreamy  step  of  the  camel,  but 
it  is  gentle  and  regular,  and  one  soon  gets  accustomed  to 
it.  I  found  I  could  read,  even  small  print,  with  perfect 
ease,  and  write  too,  without  serious  difficulty. 

In  the  morning,  on  leaving  our  encampment,  I  passed 
through  the  village  in  which  the  present  viceroy.  Abbas 
Pasha,  is  building  his  new  palace.  It  is  on  an  immense 
scale.  The  high  road,  a  good  macadamized  road,  runs 
between  the  edifices,  that  compose,  as  a  whole,  the  palace. 
One  mansion  only  appeared  to  me  finished — probably  that 
in  which  he  wall  principally  reside  ;  but  extensive  buildings 
are  in  progi'ess  for  his  chief  officers,  troops,  &c.  He  does 
not  appear  to  possess  more  than  a  very  limited  amount  of 
the  ability,  enterprise  or  energy  of  either  Mehemet  Ali  or 
Ibrahim  Pasha:  his  delight  centres  in  large  palaces,  harems, 


THE    CITY   OF    "  OX."  435 

pigeon-fancying,  and  amusement.  He  is  reversing  many 
of  the  plans  of  Mehemet  Ali,  and  reverting  to  former  times. 
Education  is  generally  abandoned,  and  the  best  friends  of 
Egypt  fear  decline  and  deterioration,  rather  than  any  solid 
advancement  under  his  rule.  He  avoids  intercourse  with 
Europeans.  Some  who  had  free  access  to  Mehemet  Ali, 
he  has  not  admitted  to  his  presence. 

After  quitting  the  palace,  we  passed  but  few  houses — we 
were  almost  immediately  in  desert  country.  A  long  slip 
of  cultivation  continued  on  our  left  for  some  distance, 
marked  out  by  date-trees,  and  watered  by  a  small  canal 
from  the  Nile.     Our  course  has  been  north. 

I  indulged  the  hope  of  passing  close  to  the  village  of 
Metariyeh,  near  which  are  the  mounds  and  ruins  of  Helio- 
polis,  the  "  On  "of  Scripture,  and  the  obelisk  of  Osirtasen  I. 
Having  travelled  forward  a  couple  of  hours,  I  asked  my 
attendant  where  the  village  was,  and  then  found,  to  my 
mortification,  that  the  guides  had  taken  another  road,  and 
the  village  was  only  just  in  sight,  on  my  left,  but  that  we 
were  too  far  off  to  see  the  obelisk.  They  pleaded,  that  the 
waters  were  still  too  much  out  to  permit  their  camels  to 
pass  that  way.  I  suspect  this  was  false,  and  that  they  had 
taken  the  nearer  path,  for  their  own  convenience;  but  as  I 
had  neither  donkey  nor  mule  with  me  for  riding,  I  was 
obliged  to  pass  forward,  without  seeing  the  two  objects  I 
had  so  much  desired — the  site  of  the  ancient  and  cele- 
brated city  from  whence  Pharaoh  obtained  a  wife  for 
Joseph,  she  being  the  daughter  of  the  priest  of  "  On,"  and 
the  famous  granite  obelisk  bearing  the  Pharaoh  who  had 
received  Joseph,  Osirtasen  I.,  and  who  reigned  from  1740 
to  1696  before  our  era. 

We  next  reached  Balbeis,  once  a  town  of  some  import- 
ance, and  known  as  the  battle-field  between  Almerick  of 
Jerusalem  and  the  Sultans  of  Egypt,  during  the  crusades. 
Near  to  this  town  is  a  place  in  ruins,  by  which  we  passed. 
It  is  called  by  the  Arabs  "  Kafr,"  signifying  ruins.  It  is 
also  known  by  the   name  of  Tel-et-Reta,  and  which  is 


43G  LOADING    CAMELS. 

believed  to  be  the  site  called  also  Tel-el-Yehud,  the  hill  or 
mound  of  the  Jews.  It  is  near  here  that  Onias  the  high 
priest  built  a  temple  in  the  town  of  Ptolemy  Philometer, 
and  which  was  called  Onias,  or  Onion.  This  is  twelve 
miles  from  Heliopolis. 

I  now  found  that  travelling  by  camels  was  about  as  rapid 
as  travelling  by  oxen.  They  are  not  able  to  perform  much 
more  than  twenty  miles  per  day.  They  go  about  two  and 
a-half  miles  an  hour.  They  make  an  incessant  grumbling 
noise  while  they  are  being  loaded,  snarling  at  every  addi- 
tional pound  weight.  But  they  are  helpless.  They  are  made 
to  kneel  down,  and  then  a  cord  is  fastened  round  the  fore- 
knee,  till  the  burden  is  completed.  As  soon  as  the  cord  is 
removed,  they  instantly  start  up  and  seem  to  say,  "  Not  an 
atom  more !" 

We  encamped  in  the  evening  just  across  the  old  canal, 
that  formerly  led  from  Suez  to  one  of  the  branches  of  the 
Nile,  laid  down  in  Arrowsmith's  map.  The  men  pointed 
out  to  me  the  exact  part  of  the  road  where  we  crossed  it.  I 
could  not,  however,  discover  a  vestige  of  it ;  but  they  assured 
me  it  was  the  spot,  although  at  present  wholly  covered  by 
sands  to  some  depth. 

Having  reached  the  well  Abu  Suwe,  we  filled  our  water 
casks  containing  about  thirty  gallons,  and  supplied  the 
camels  with  as  much  as  they  chose  to  di'ink.  The  well  is 
bricked  ;  the  water  seemed  to  be  at  the  depth  of  twenty-five 
feet,  and  there  was  a  good  supply.  It  is  a  little  discolom-ed, 
and  very  slightly  sulphureous  in  taste,  but  it  is  a  blessing 
in  the  wilderness.  Three  women  from  the  neighbouring 
village  had  come  to  draw  water.  Our  men  borrowed  a 
skin  and  cord  of  them,  to  facilitate  their  drawing  up  the 
supply  as  required.  It  was  then  poured  into  a  pan,  and 
each  camel  led  to  it  in  succession. 

The  faces  of  these  native  women  were  concealed  beneath 
the  common  veil  of  Eg}'pt, — perhaps  wqth  advantage,  ugly 
as  the  veil  itself  is.  There  is  beauty  in  the  human  face 
divine,  such  as  Sarah  had  when  Abraham  led  her  on  this 


BOTANY  BAY  OF  OLD  EGYPT.  437 

route.  But  degrading  treatment,  hard  labour,  and  coarse 
fare,  seem  to  obliterate  the  inviting  lineaments,  and  to 
render  a  veil  as  desirable  in  the  absence  as  in  the  posses- 
sion of  beauty. 

Two  men  on  foot,  anned  with  muskets,  passed  us  in  the 
course  of  the  day.  They  were  suspected  by  our  party,  as 
sjriesfor  thieves,  with  which  all  that  part  of  the  Desert  is 
known  to  abound.  Our  people,  therefore,  resolved  to  watch 
diligently  through  the  night.  They  had  in  fact  watched 
every  night  since  we  had  left  Cairo,  but  this  night  their  care 
was  redoubled,  knowing  that  the  locality  was  famed  for  the 
thievish  character  of  its  inhabitants,  who  prowl  about  to 
seize  whatever  they  can  find,  without  committing  acts  of 
violence.  Om'  Arabs  at  meal  time  uttered  their  usual 
formula  when  they  apprehend  danger,  to  the  effect  "that 
they  are  now  about  to  eat,  that  any  honest  man  may  partake 
with  them,  and  that  God  will  be  with  him."  If  any  stranger 
approaches,  they  offer  him  food  ;  if  he  partake  of  it,  they 
have  nothing  to  fear  from  him,  as  they  never  violate  the 
rights  of  hospitality ;  if  he  refuse,  they  suspect,  and  watch 
him. 

On  the  27th  of  November,  the  ninth  day  after  leaving 
Cairo,  I  was  sincerely  glad  to  reach  El  Arish,  the  last  stage 
of  the  journey  in  Egypt,  and  perhaps  the  })oint  of  separa- 
tion between  Egypt  and  Syria,  and  so  also  between  Africa 
and  Asia.  It  is  the  Ehinoculura  of  the  Greeks,  as  marked 
in  all  the  maps.  It  is  spoken  of  as  having  been  the  penal 
settlement,  the  "Botany  Bay,"  of  the  old  Egyptians,  where 
criminals,  having  first  had  their  noses  cut  off,  were  trans- 
ported by  the  Pharaohs.  The  place  derived  its  very  name, 
El  Arish,  it  has  been  stated,  from  the  barbarous  custom  just 
mentioned,  as  it  signifies  the  "  place  of  the  broken  noses." 

I  find  in  the  maps  that  a  stream  or  river  is  laid  down  as 
falling  into  the  sea  at  El  Arish.     Nothing  of  the  kind  really 
exists.     There  is  no  stream  whatever  falling  into  the  sea 
at  this  place  or  anywhere  near  it.     The  men  who  accom 
panied  me,  and  who  are  continually  passing  and  repassing 


438  EL   ARISH. 

here,  assured  me  there  is  not  any,  and  I  received  the  same 
assurance  from  the  oflBcer  of  the  quarantine  stationed 
here,  an  intelligent  French  gentleman,  ■with  whom  I  had 
been  conversing.  I  showed  him  Arrowsmith's  map.  He 
assured  me  there  is  no  river  here  ;  adding,  that  possibly,  in 
some  rainy  seasons,  some  torrent  from  the  higher  country 
to  the  south  may  mn  to  the  sea  in  that  locality.  But  the 
whole  countr}'  is  so  sandy,  that  this  is  scarcely  possible. 
The  stream  would  be  absorbed  before  reaching  the  sea, 
and  there  is  certainly  no  torrent  bed  along  which  it  might 
occasionally  roll. 

El  Arish  is  a  to-ftm  occupied  by  the  troops  of  Abbas  Pasha. 
The  troops  and  inhabitants  together  form  a  population  of 
1000.  There  were  formerly  many  trees  and  gardens  in 
the  vicinity,  but  these  were  destroyed  on  the  invasion  of 
Eg}'pt  by  Bonaparte,  and  have  not  since  been  restored.  It 
is  a  mistake  in  the  geography  of  Eg}^t,  as  given  in  a 
small  work  lately  published,  to  say,  that  "  Selehieh  "  is  its 
last  town  on  the  eastern  frontier.  I  had  left  Selehieh  at 
some  distance  on  the  west.  "  El  Arish"'  should  be  inserted 
as  the  last  town  on  the  east  of  Eg}-pt.  Perhaps,  however, 
the  authority  of  Egjpt  extends  still  some  little  way  fur- 
ther. Between  El  Arish  and  Khan  Jounes,  (nearly  two  days' 
journey,)  there  are  some  wandering  tribes  of  Arabs  Avho 
profess  to  be  independent,  and  hence  a  small  section  of  the 
coiuitr}'  stretching  to  the  coast  might  be  regarded,  I  think, 
as  a  continuation  of  Arabia,  and  forming  a  slip  of  inter- 
mediate territory  between  Eg>-pt  and  Syria.  The  most 
southern  town  of  S}Tia  on  the  west  is  Khan  Jounes, 
— Jonah's  Khan.  Abbas  Pasha  claims  some  paramount 
authority  over  this  part  of  the  countiy,  between  El  Arish 
and  Khan  Jounes.  He  does  not  occupy  it  by  troops,  nor 
exact  service  or  taxes,  but  he  holds  tlie  Sheikhs  of  it 
responsible  for  good  behaviour,  as  far  as  "  Picfah,"  which 
consists  now  of  ruins  only,  but  at  Avhich  two  pillars  are  set 
up,  as  in  some  way  a  boundary  mark  between  tlie  two 
countries  of  Egj'pt  and  Syria. 


QUAEANTINE.  439 

I  was  surprised  and  delighted  to  see  the  great  quantity 
of  ploughed  land  in  this  jiart  of  my  route.  I  had  thought 
it  would  be  imj)ossihle  to  produce  any  harvest  on  such  a 
soil.  It  is  all  sand,  with  merely  a  few  scattered  stunted 
bushes.  But  that  very  sand  is  fertile.  It  is  first  ploughed, 
then,  as  soon  as  rain  falls,  it  is  ploughed  again,  then  sown, 
and  the  seed  is  ploughed  in  ;  and  in  the  course  of  three  or 
four  months,  a  good  harvest  is  obtained — the  barley  har- 
vest first,  and  then  wheat,  beans,  lentils,  &c.,  &c.  The 
ploughing  is  a  very  simple  process.  Two  asses  are  em- 
ployed, or  a  camel,  or  two  oxen  or  cows,  to  draw  the  plough, 
and  a  man  walks  behind  guiding  it  with  one  hand. 

The  town  of  El  Arish  is  the  place  for  performing  quaran- 
tine for  all  persons  passing /ro?;i  Syria  into  Egypt;  but  for 
those  who  are  proceeding  to  Syria,  the  quarantine  is  per- 
formed at  Gaza,  or  in  part  at  Khan  Jounes,  and  the  rest 
at  Gaza.  My  passjjort  was  "  vised' '  here,  and  a  guarantee 
certificate  obtained  from  me  for  my  two  attendants,  for 
whom  I  had  not  taken  out  i^assports  at  Cairo.  Being 
natives,  it  had  not  occurred  to  me  as  necessary,  and  they 
themselves  assured  me,  that  in  Cairo  they  were  informed 
by  the  proper  authorities  that  it  was  not  in  their  case  need- 
ful or  customary.  However,  the  charge  for  it  was  only 
three  piastres,  about  7d.  sterling.  It  was  made  out  in 
Italian,  but  the  general  language  used  here  is  Arabic. 

During  the  latter  of  my  journey,  not  far  from  El  Arish, 
we  were  "  called  up"  by  a  Bedouin  Arab  well  mounted  and 
armed.  He  demanded  a  piastre  for  each  of  the  three 
Nazarenes,  meaning  Christians,  of  my  party, — myself  and 
two  attendants.  The  camel-drivers  being  all  Mahomet- 
ans, are  not  required  to  pay.  Of  course,  the  amount  was 
immediately  forthcoming.  He  bowed  politely  and  passed 
on.  I  came  prepared  for  this  "  black  mail"  demand.  It 
was  to  occur  three  times  on  the  route,  and  has  in  it,  if 
complied  with,  nothing  very  formidable  or  very  expensive. 


CHAPTER    XIX. 

PALESTINE. 

KHAN       JOUKES MURDER RETALIATION GAZA aUARANTINE LAZA- 
RETTO  MOSQUE — ASHDOD RAMLAH HILL  COUNTRY JERUSALEM 

CITY  WALLS — MOSaUE  OF    OMAR FOUNDATIONS    OF    THE  TEMPLE 

VALLEY    OF   JEHOSHAPHAT DR.    GOBAT CHURCH    OF    THE  HOLY 

SEPULCHRE  LITERARY     SOCIETY  POOL     OF    SILOAM ANCIENT 

BRIDGE — -MOUNT  OF  OLIVES GETH3EMANE BETHANY SOLOMON's 

POOLS HEBRON PILGRIMS MACHPELAH MAMBE BETHLEHEM 

GILGAL — JERICHO JORDAN GREEK     CHRISTIANS DEAD    SEA 

NABY    MOYSE CISTERNS    IN    JERUSALEM SUPPLIES    OF    WATER 

MOHAMMEDANISM LEAVE  JERUSALEM BETHEL ANATHOTH 

SHECHEM — Jacob's  well — ebal— gerizim  —  sebaste'  —  jenin — 

ESDRAELON NAZARETH MOUNT    TABOR LAKE    OF  TIBERIAS 

CITY     OF      TIBERIAS — MAGDALA MOUNT      HERMON — THORNS      AND 

THISTLES CONDITION    OF    WOMEN BANIAS — SILKWORMS DRUSES 

DAMASCUS MISSIONARIES     AT    DAMASCUS MOHAMMEDANISM 

ROMANISM OUTBREAK  AT  ALEPPO — JEWS  AT  DAMASCUS — -ZEBEDANE 

BAALBEC IMMENSE  BLOCK DIFFICULT  TRAVELLING ZACHLE 

MALAKA HAIL,     SNOW,     ICE BEYRUT ALEXANDRIA THE   RIPON 

ARRIVAL    AT    SOUTHAMPTON REACH    HOME DIRECTORS PAPAL 

AGGRESSION SUMMING  UP— CONCLUSION. 

Entering  now  the  ancient  countiy  of  the  Philistines,  I 
hoped  to  have  reached  Gaza  from  Sheikh  Juide  in  one  day. 
That  I  found,  however,  from  its  distance,  to  he  impracti- 
cable. In  the  course  of  the  morning  we  came  to  Eefah,  or 
Eaffia,  once  a  city  of  considerable  magnitude,  as  is  evident 
from  the  quantity  of  fragments  of  pottery  scattered  pro- 
fusely over  the  ground.  Two  pillars  of  dark-red  granite 
remain,  about  twelve  feet  high   and  sixteen  inches  dia- 


KHAN   JOUNES.  441 

meter,  and  these  are  beautifully  polished.  At  a  short  dis- 
tance is  a  large  well,  of  from  six  to  eight  feet  diameter,  of 
great  depth,  but  not  now  used.  Here  Pharaoh's  daughter 
was  delivered  into  the  care  of  the  elders  who  came  down 
from  Solomon  to  receive  her,  on  the  occasion  of  the 
marriage  of  the  son  of  David  with  the  daughter  of  the 
Egyptian  monarch.  Here  also  Antiochus  and  Ptolemy 
fought :  elephants  had  been  trained  for  the  battle,  and 
Antiochus  was  defeated. 

We  came  to  Khan  Jounes  a  little  after  mid-day,  fully 
resolved  on  going  forward  ;  however,  the  Governor  of  the 
town,  a  Turkish  authority,  and  his  suite,  met  my  men, 
and  told  them  it  was  proper  to  remain  for  the  night, 
assigning  as  reasons,  that  we  could  not  reach  Gaza  that 
night,  and  that  he  could  not  at  that  moment  send  the 
escort  with  me,  which  he  deemed  essential  to  my  safety ; 
but  that  no  time  would  really  be  lost,  as  this  delay  would 
be  reckoned  a  part  of  my  quarantine.  Five  days  are 
demanded  for  quarantine  on  entering  Syria,  including  the 
days  of  arrival  and  departure.  Khan  Jounes  is  in  Syria, 
and  the  Governor  is  under  the  Sultan,  and  not  Abbas 
Pasha.  My  stay  there  would  be  reckoned  one  day,  and  the 
next  day,  on  reaching  Gaza,  would  be  accounted  a  second 
day,  out  of  the  stipulated  five  days.  My  attendant  very 
prudently  told  me,  that,  being  now  in  quarantine,  I  must 
not  move  to  any  distance  from  my  tent.  The  same  cir- 
cumstance prevented  all  intrusion  on  the  part  of  the  people. 
We  kept  a  respectful  distance  from  each  other. 

We  pitched  our  tent  near  some  tombs.  Two  women 
shortly  after  passed  by,  crying  and  weeping  bitterly.  One 
of  them  had  just  lost  her  husband,  a  camel-driver,  who 
had  been  killed  during  the  week  by  the  Bedouins  who  had 
that  veiy  morning  demanded  of  me  black  mail,  and  to 
whom  I  paid  three  piastres.  The  demand  in  the  case  of 
this  murdered  man  was  made  on  account  of  some  Chris- 
tians whom  he  was  conducting  on  the  road.  The  camel- 
driver  had  refused  the  payment.     His  temerity  cost  him 


442  RETALIATION. 

his  life.  The  man  who  was  killed  belonged  to  Klian 
Jounes.  I  asked  what  the  authorities  would  do  in  that 
case,  and  the  answer  was,  "  Nothing."  They  cannot,  by 
their  customs,  do  anything.  The  murderers  are  Bedouin 
Ai'abs,  and  the  people  here  are  FeUahins.  These  will 
retaliate  on  the  Bedouins  whenever  an  opj^ortunity  occui's, 
and  kill  one  of  their  number.  A  wild  kind  of  justice,  or 
rather  injustice  this,  for  vengeance  may  fall  on  a  most 
innocent  victim  !  The  tribe  suffers,  but  the  real  mur- 
derer may  escape. 

Khan  Jounes  is  a  place  of  some  importance.  The  view 
of  it,  in  approaching,  is  pleasing  ;  there  are  many  large 
and  inclosed  gardens.  The  sight  of  green  was  refreshing 
after  the  monotonous  sands  of  the  last  ten  days.  I  saw 
water-wheels  at  work,  of  a  very  ancient  consti'uction,  and 
concluded  the  place  was  well  watered.  Cactuses  are  here 
immensely  large  ;  their  fruit  is  much  liked  by  the  people. 
There  were  none  ripe  at  present,  neither  were  the  dates  ripe. 
I  could  hear  of  no  other  fruits  being  raised  here,  nor  any 
vegetables  at  all.  The  people  seem  to  live  very  sparingly ; 
their  principal  food  is  cake, — a  little  flour  and  water  baked 
on  the  earth  by  means  of  hot  embers.  The  one  I  ate  on 
trial  I  found  good,  but  I  felt  that  I  would  much  rather 
not  be  confined  to  such  coarse  diet. 

A  guard  on  horseback  was  now  appointed  to  accompany 
us  all  the  way  to  Gaza,  to  keep  all  passers-by  at  a  respect- 
ful distance,  including  the  very  dogs  of  that  country,  lest, 
by  any  chance,  we,  coming  up  out  of  Egypt,  might  infect 
them  with  the  plagues  of  that  country ;  and  they,  in  turn, 
unfortunately  infect  the  good  people  of  Palestine. 

Many  Arabs  passed  us  on  horseback,  well  dressed,  armed 
to  the  teeth,  and  on  good  steeds.  They  were  quarantine 
officers,  under  the  government  of  Syria,  and  had  either 
been  with  parties  to  Gaza,  or  were  on  the  look-out  for  such 
as  try  to  evade  the  quarantine  laws,  by  taking  some  circu- 
itous route  away  from  the  high  road. 

We  reached  the  Gaza  district  about  mid-dav,  crossed  a 


ENTERING    PALESTINE.  443 

Wadi,  called  the  Wadi  Gaza,  and  then  some  low  sand-hills, 
and  came  in  sight  of  the  town,  with  tlie  Lazaretto  and  its 
red  flag  flying,  at  a  short  distance  on  the  south  side  of  the 
town.  I  tried  to  get  permission  to  fix  my  tent  outside  the 
Lazaretto,  in  the  fields,  but  was  told  it  was  not  the  custom. 
So  into  the  Lazaretto  we  were  conducted,  as  if  criminals 
awaiting  execution.  It  is  a  large  quadrangular  building, 
with  several  apartments  for  travellers.  There  are  upper 
rooms  at  the  two  extremities,  at  one  side  of  the  square, 
totally  unfurnished,  and  for  one  of  these  for  myself,  and  one 
below  for  my  servants,  I  had  to  pay  £1  18s.,  and  more- 
over, to  have  the  honour  of  boarding  two  men  with  my 
servants  during  my  stay,  who  should  watch  that  we  did 
not  break  through  quarantine.  An  impudent  piece  of 
imposition  altogether !  Here  was  a  fine  season  ;  no  sick- 
ness prevailing  at  Cairo,  from  whence  we  came  ;  no  sick- 
ness in  any  of  my  party ;  and  yet  Jive  days'  quarantine  and 
delay  demanded,  and  payment  into  the  bargain  !  But  it 
could  not  be  avoided  ;  and  so  I  submitted  to  it  with  the 
best  grace  that  an  Englishman,  not  at  home,  could  do. 
There  is  a  tolerably  good  view  of  the  town  from  the  build- 
ing. Cultivation  is  also  extensive  ;  and  the  scene  from  the 
front  window  is  thoroughly  good,  and  reminded  me  of  some 
of  our  English  parks.  There  is  a  well-built  fountain  in 
the  centre  of  this  Lazaretto,  and  the  water  is  of  excellent 
quality. 

Here,  then,  I  found  myself  actually  in  Palestine  ;  and 
although  not  yet  in  the  most  interesting  section  of  it,  still 
it  was  the  land  of  the  Bible,  every  inch  of  which  seemed 
full  of  incident.  I  was  now  in  the  original  oovintiy  of  the 
Philistines,  and  in  Gaza,  on  the  coast  allotted  to  the  tribe 
of  Dan.  From  this  ancient  town  Samson  carried  away 
the  gates,  as  recorded  in  Judges  xvi.  21 ;  and  here,  too,  he 
was  made  prisoner,  and  subsequently  took  his  revenge  on 
the  lords  of  the  Philistines,  who  had  assembled  for  sport, 
by  destroying  them  at  a  moment  when  most  intent  on 
their  merriment.     In  the  New  Testament,  we  find  Philip 


444  GAZA. 

instructed  to  proceed  to  the  road  that  conducted  "from 
Jerusalem  to  Gaza,  which  is  desert,"  and  in  doing  which, 
he  met  with  the  officer  of  Candace,  queen  of  Ethiopia,  ex- 
plained to  him  the  prophecy  of  Isaiah,  and  administered 
to  him  Christian  baptism,  on  his  profession  of  faith  in  the 
Saviour. 

The  afternoon  before  I  was  allowed  to  leave  Gaza,  the 
medical  attendant  attached  to  the  Lazaretto  came  to  pay 
me  his  official  visit.  He  was  formerly  a  Eoman  Catholic, 
but  is  now  a  Mussulman.  The  only  ordeal  I  had  to  go 
through,  was  "  to  show  my  tongue."  The  doctor  seemed 
as  satisfied  Avith  its  appearance  as  I  was  with  the  reality ; 
and  so  we  wished  each  other  good  day.  Next  came  the 
demand  for  the  £1  18s,  for  the  quarantine  fees,  &c. ;  and 
then  a  civil  request  for  "  backsheesh,"  for  the  servants  in 
attendance.  My  passport  was  also  returned  in  due  form, 
and  endorsed. 

We  began  early  next  morning  our  preparations  for  de- 
parture ;  and,  by  eight  o'clock,  were  ready  for  starting.  I 
took  a  guide  and  went  through  the  ancient  town,  giving 
directions  that  the  camels  should  meet  me  outside,  at  a 
little  distance  on  the  Askalon  road.  I  found  the  town 
large  ;  and,  perhaps  by  mid-day,  when  the  bazaars  ai'e  all 
open  and  j^eople  are  full  of  business,  it  may  wear  some 
appearance  of  activity.  In  the  morning  I  found  everything 
dark,  dull,  and  insipid.  The  houses  are  built  of  mud  ;  and 
the  pathways  are  narrow,  dusty,  dirty,  and  abominably 
disagreeable.  The  shops  in  the  bazaars  are  very  ancient ; 
they  are  built  chiefly  of  stone,  and  covered  in  with  stone 
archways.  I  could  fancy  some  of  them  to  be  just  what 
they  were  when  Samson  paid  Gaza  his  visits. 

Gaza  occupies  the  side  and  summit  of  a  hill  of  no  great 
elevation.  On  the  north-east,  the  view  is  extensive  ;  the 
distant  hills  come  into  view,  and  must  be  those,  I  appre- 
hend, to  which  Samson  "carried  the  gates  of  Gaza." 
They  appear  to  be  about  thirty  miles  distant.  The  old 
town  of  Gaza  was,  however,  destroyed  during  the  Jewish 


MOSQUE   AT    GAZA.  445 

war,  and  was  to  remain  uninhabited.  "  Gaza  also  shall 
see  it,  and  be  very  sorrowful,  and  Ekron,  for  her  expecta- 
tion, shall  be  ashamed,  and  the  king  shall  perish  from 
Gaza." — Zech.  ix.  5. 

This  old  town  is  not  far  from  the  present  one.  It  is  in 
part  occupied  ;  but  there  are  many  ruins,  and  among  them 
are,  it  is  said,  the  very  pillars  of  the  temple  of  Dagon, 
that  Samson  pulled  down  on  the  heads  of  the  Philistine 
nobles  I  On  the  site  of  the  temple,  the  empress  Helena 
built  a  magnificent  Christian  church.  That  church  has 
since  been  converted  into  a  mosque  ;  and  is,  in  fact,  the 
principal  mosque  in  the  place.  It  is  a  noble  structure, 
contains  some  good  Corinthian  pillars,  and  is  among  the 
oldest  Christian  antiquities  in  the  country.  The  keeper 
made  no  scruple  about  admitting  me,  simply  pointing, 
however,  to  my  shoes,  and  intimating  that  I  must  do  as  he 
did,  take  them  off,  and  leave  them  at  the  door.  Having 
stockings  on,  and  good  mats  to  walk  on,  it  was  no  severe 
punishment. 

We  encamped  at  Hamami  in  the  evening,  and  next 
morning  passed  by  Asdud,  the  "Ashdod"  of  the  Old 
Testament,  and  the  "  Azotus  "  of  the  New.  It  is  not  now 
inhabited  to  any  considerable  extent,  but  was  once  a  place 
of  much  importance  and  strength.  We  crossed  the  Wadi 
Asdud  and  two  ancient  bridges  in  the  course  of  our 
journey,  and  passed  two  large  villages,  Igbabah  and  Zur- 
nogah,  not  laid  down  in  the  maps  which  I  had  with  me. 
They  were  about  half-way  between  Asdud  and  Ramlah. 

I  passed  over  a  portion  of  the  extensive  plains  of 
Shai'on,  with  its  fine  arable  land,  a  large  proportion  of 
which — although  its  population  is  sparse — is  under  culti- 
vation. Animal  food  is  not  in  general  use.  The  natives 
subsist  principally  on  wheat;  and  hence  we  may  account 
for  their  cultivating  what  might  else  seem  an  unneces- 
sarily large  quantity  of  ground. 

I  next  reached  Ilamlah,  tlie  ancient  Arimatluja — once  of 
some    importance,    now   comparatively    poor,    and    much 


446  ANCIENT   ARIMATHEA. 

dilapidated.  Here  my  engagement  with  the  camel- drivers 
tei-minated  ;  and  I  had  to  obtain  mules  and  muleteers  to 
convey  me  to  Jerusalem,  distant  now  one  long  day's  jour- 
ney. Ramlah  is  a  large  to\^Ti,  and  looks  well  from  the  field 
immediately  below  it,  where  we  encamped.  Most  of  the 
houses  have  dome-shaped  roofs  to  their  principal  rooms. 
The  casements,  or  windows,  are  made  of  cylindrical  tiles, 
open  at  both  ends,  and  of  three  inches  diameter.  These 
little  brick  cylinders  are  piled  on  each  other,  in  the  shape 
of  pjTamids.  They  admit  some  air  and  a  modicum  of 
light.  They  sei'\'e  as  "  jalousies ;"  persons  within  the 
rooms  can  peep  out  through  them,  and  see  a  little  of  what 
is  passing ;  but  those  without  can  see  nothing  of  what  is 
passing  within.  Alas  !  for  women  under  Mohammedan 
rule  ! 

I  found  it  difficult  to  procure  mules  at  Ramlah,  except- 
ing at  a  very  exorbitant  rate.  My  attendant,  Barzily,  pro- 
ceeded to  Jaffa,  to  procure  some  there,  and  returned  soon 
after  midnight.  I  required  the  same  number  of  mules 
that  I  had  had  of  camels.  These  animals  are  strong,  well- 
trained,  and  capable  of  enduring  much  fatigue.  Their  iron- 
shod  feet  pass  much  better  over  the  stony  and  rocky  soil 
than  camels  could.  The  attendants  pack  large  sacks  of 
straw  on  the  backs  of  the  mules,  and  then  lash  the 
packages  across  these,  so  as  to  hang  down  by  their  sides. 
In  the  same  manner  they  CiU'ried  my  "  tetrawan  "  without 
difficulty. 

Part  of  the  road  from  Eamlah  is  good.  The  country  is 
a  fine  rich  fertile  plain  ;  after  that  the  scene  changes.  In- 
stead of  a  rich  loamy  soil,  it  all  becomes  stony  and  hilly. 
It  is  the  hill  country  of  Judea.  The  rock  is  a  fine- 
grained limestone. 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  Barzily  went  fonvard  to 
endeavour  to  secm-e  my  admission  through  the  gate  at 
Jerusalem,  in  case  I  should  not  ai-rive  there  till  after  sun- 
set, when  it  is  usually  closed.  It  was  well  he  did  so,  for 
instead  of  reaching  the  city  by  five  or  six  o'clock,  the 


ARRIVAL   AT   JERUSALEM.  447 

^  muleteers  were  eleven  hours  on  the  road,  and  it  was  eight 
o'clock  when  I  reached  the  Damascus  gate. 

On  asking  permission  to  enter  there,  it  was  refused ; 
and,  as  I  afterwards  found,  we  ought  not  to  have  expected 
to  be  admitted  there.  Passengers  may  enter  that  gate,  but 
not  burdens;  and  I,  of  course,  had  my  travelling  equipage. 
We  were  sent  round  to  the  Jaffa  gate.  That  also  was 
locked,  and  the  key  had  been  taken  to  the  Governor,  the 
lord  mayor,  for  the  night.  It  had  been  kept  open  for  me, 
at  the  instance  of  the  English  consul,  beyond  the  usual 
hour,  when,  not  arriving,  it  was  concluded  I  was  remain- 
ing outside  at  some  distance  till  the  morning.  The  guards 
were  very  civil,  led  me  to  the  guard-room  by  the  wall,  gave 
me  a  seat  by  their  fire,  and  offered  me  a  pipe  !  There  I 
waited  till  the  arrival  of  the  key  was  announced  ;  and  then 
I  soon  found  myself  at  the  family  hotel  kept  by  Mr.  Me- 
shuUam,  and  thus,  after  a  long  and  fatiguing  day's  journey, 
my  feet  stood  within  the  walls  of  Jerusalem — that  ancient 
city,  of  which  so  many  "  glorious  things  have  been 
spoken,"  and  where  so  many  wondrous  and  glorious 
deeds  have  been  accomplished.  I  offered  devout  thanks- 
givings to  Him  whose  constant  care  had  watched  over  me 
during  my  journeys  hitherto,  and  by  whose  kindness  I  was 
now  permitted  to  visit  the  spot  which  I  had  so  often  and 
so  ardently  desired  to  see, — a  spot  sacred  to  so  many  and 
such  varied  associations — the  spot  which  God  himself  chose 
out  of  all  the  localities  of  the  earth,  "  to  put  his  name 
there  ;"  and  whither  his  chosen  tribes,  for  successive  ages, 
went  up  to  worship. 

As  the  view  from  the  Jaffa  road  is  said  to  be  one  of  the 
least  impressive  and  interesting  that  can  be  obtained  of 
the  city,  I  was  not  sorry  it  was  dark  when  we  came  within 
a  moderate  distance  of  it.  I  wished  my  first  impressions, 
as  they  are  usually  the  most  permanent,  to  be  of  a  favour- 
able and  pleasing  character.  However,  Jerusalem  cannot 
be  seen  from  a  great  distance  on  that  road.  As  Ave  were 
approaching  it,  my  attendant  announced  to  me  that  we 


448  FIRST   WALK   ROUND    JERUSALEM. 

were  near  the  city.  "  Can  you  see  it?"  said  I.  "  No,"  he 
replied,  " but  we  know  its  situation."  "Can  you  see  any 
lights  ?"  "  No,  sir."  I  therefore  kept  my  place  in  the 
tetrawan,  nor  did  I  quit  it  till  I  reached  the  Jaffa  gate,  and 
went  up  to  the  soldiers'  guard-room,  as  already  stated. 

The  first  business,  the  next  morning,  was  to  pay  off  the 
men  who  had  brought  me  from  Eamlah.  The  expense 
was  about  £,'Z  ISs.  The  next  business  was  to  go  to  the 
British  Consulate,  and  to  pay  there,  by  agreement,  the 
balance  due  to  my  camel  people,  who  had  brought  me 
from  Cairo  to  Eamlah.  This  was  all  done  without  the 
least  difficulty ;  and  I  found  Mr.  Finn,  the  consul,  exceed- 
ingly polite  and  friendly. 

I  then  took  a  walk  round  the  walls  of  the  city,  pro- 
ceeding from  the  Jaffa  or  Bethlehem  Gate ;  from  thence, 
along  by  the  Damascus  Gate,  and  onward  to  the  mosque 
of  Omar,  the  acknowledged  site  of  the  temple  of  Solomon, 
where  one  is  obliged  to  descend  and  proceed  outside,  for 
some  distance,  after  obtaining  at  St.  Stephen's  Gate  a  peep 
within  the  sacred  inclosure,  just  far  enough  to  see  the 
exterior  of  the  mosque  itself,  and  a  portion  of  its  beau- 
tiful lawn,  raised  platform,  and  Saracenic  arches  and 
colonnades.  The  mosque  is  itself  a  spacious,  splendid 
octangular  building ;  its  dome  is  magnificent ;  and  though 
some  embellishments  may  be  gaudj',  if  closely  examined, 
I  thought  the  efi"ect  at  the  distance  certainly  imposing. 
But  its  main  interest  lies  in  its  historic  and  sacred  asso- 
ciations ;  there  is  the  threshing-floor  of  Araunah,  on 
Mount  Moriah,  where  the  plague  inflicted  on  Israel  was 
stayed ;  there  the  site  of  the  splendid  temple  reared  by 
Solomon,  and  where,  at  its  solemn  dedication,  Jehovah 
gave  signs  of  his  special  presence,  and  the  tokens  of  his 
approbation ;  there,  after  its  destruction  by  Nebuchad- 
nezzar, the  second  temple  was  reared,  afterwards  enlarged 
and  beautified  by  the  munificence  of  Herod,  of  memory 
illustrious,  both  for  heartless  cruelty  and  magnificence  ; 
there  the  flames  of  the  soldiers  of  Titus  destroyed  what 


JERUSALEM  OVERTHROWN.  449 

the  apostles  had  lately  admired,  but  the  doom  of  which 
the  Saviour  had  distinctly  pronounced,  when  he  said  : 
"  Not  one  stone  should  be  left  vipon  another,  that  should 
not  be  thrown  down."  Nor  has  the  historic  interest  of 
the  spot  ceased  with  those  events ;  Saracens  and  Turks 
have  claimed  it  and  possessed  it ;  crusaders  by  myriads 
have  sighed,  and  fought,  and  died  for  it.  The  original 
possessors  of  it,  the  Jebusites,  have  long  ceased  to 
have  an  existence  ;  the  Jewish  possessors  have  been  for 
eighteen  centuries  cast  out  of  it.  A  small  fragment  of 
their  nation  still  clings  around  it,  and  weeps  over  it. 
Christians  visit  it  with  hallowed  interest,  and  long  to  see 
it  purified  from  Mohammedan  delusions,  and  consecrated 
to  the  s^jiritual  Avorship  of  the  one  true  and  living  God. 

The  Avalk  immediately  outside  the  lofty  wall  of  the 
mosque  (or  temple),  from  St.  Stephen's  Gate  to  its  south- 
west corner,  led  me  by  the  Golden  Gate,  of  Roman  archi- 
tecture, now  closed  up,  and  by  many  of  the  huge  stones  of 
the  foundation  of  the  temple,  upwards  of  twenty  feet  in 
length,  bevelled,  and  of  great  antiquilij,  reaching,  I  should 
think,  back  to  the  times  of  Solomon. 

Our  Lord's  prediction  of  the  entire  subversion  of  these 
buildings,  so  that  not  one  stone  was  to  be  left  upon  an- 
otlier,  would  be,  I  should  apprehend,  adequately  fulfilled 
in  the  destruction  of  the  edifices  themselves  to  the  founda- 
tions, without  including  the  actual  foundations  themselves, 
which  would,  of  course,  be  buried  beneath  the  immense 
mass  of  ruins  poured  over  them  and  around  them,  in  the 
demolition  of  the  sui;)erstructures  which  had  rested  upon 
them. 

Facing  this  portion  of  the  walls,  and  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  double  Golden  Gate,  are  very  many  Mahonnnedan 
tombs,  having  a  remurlvably  neat  appearance  of  chaste 
workmanship,  and  bearing  inscriptions  in  Arabic,  nicely 
cut  in  relief,  and  painted.  I  observed  some  on  which  a 
few  flowers  had  been  lately  strewn. 

This  walk  under  the  wall  of  the  temple  is  directly  above 


450  CHUKCH  OF  THE  HOLY  SEPULCHRE. 

the  valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  and,  therefore,  above  the  line  of 
the  brook  Kedron,  which  was  quite  dry.  Eain  came  on 
while  I  was  there,  and  the  afternoon  looked  threatenint:. 
I  therefore  turned  up  by  El  Aksa,  and  reached  David  - 
Gate  with  as  little  delay  as  possible.  This  is  also  called 
Zion's  Gate.  From  thence,  I  passed  through  the  Jewi>li 
quarter — alas  !  the  most  wretched  and  uninviting  quarter 
of  the  city — on  my  way  to  the  hotel.  I  had  walked  tlu- 
whole  distance,  and  felt  fatigued.  I  had  passed  in  sight 
of  Siloam,  and  crossed  the  Tyropeon,  but  was  obliged  to 
omit  further  examination  till  the  morrow. 

After  remaining  and  resting  a  short  time  at  the  hotel,  I 
set  out  to  visit  Dr.  Gobat,  the  English  bishop,  to  whom 
I  had  letters  of  introduction.  I  found  him  at  home,  and 
exceedingly  affable.  I  had  a  pleasant  half-hour's  conver- 
sation with  him,  took  a  cup  of  coffee,  and  again  returned  to 
my  home. 

On  my  way  I  passed  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre 
and,  under  the  guidance  of  my  dragoman,  I  took  the  oppor- 
tunity of  going  in  and  visiting  some  of  the  spots  that  ar 
usually  pointed  out  to  pilgrims  and  travellers.     My  visit  t  > 
these  was,  I  confess,  somewhat  hasty.     I  was  satisfied  ju.-t 
to  have  them  pointed  out.     I  could  not  linger  over  thei;: 
I  could  not  feel  any  confidence  in  their  being  the  veritab. 
localities.     This  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  is  no  doul 
built  on  the  site  selected  by  the  Empress  Helena  as  the  si' 
of  the  crucifixion  and  its  concomitant  events.     The  Lat;: 
and  Greek  churches  have  now  for  some  centuries  had  po- 
session  of  it ;  and  some  portions  of  the  building  are  allott' 
to  the  Coptic,  Armenian,  Abyssinian,  Nestorian,  and  Syria 
churches.     On  entering,  the   "  Stone  of  Unction,"  wher. 
the  Lords   body   was   anointed,  is   shown;  and  the  spot 
where  it  was  placed  in  the  tomb,  and  where  the  stone  was 
rolled  away ;    then,  where  the  Saviour  appeared  to  Mary 
Magdalen  and  his  mother.     Then  you  have  a  long  descent 
by  steps  to  the  spot  where  the  cross  is  said  to  have  betu 
found,  and  by  which  the  locality  of  the  crucifixion  is  iden- 


LITERARY  SOCIETY  AT  JERUSALEM.  451 

titled.  And  there,  too,  "  Calvary  "  is  pretended  to  be  pointed 
out,  and  the  base  of  the  rock  where  the  cross  was  planted; 
and  the  rent  or  fissure  in  the  rock  occasioned  by  the  earth- 
quake at  the  Saviour's  death  ! 

These  details,  and  many  of  a  similar  kind,  are  all  too 
minute  to  wear  the  semblance  of  truth  ;  and  one  turns  from 
them  with  instinctive  dissatisfaction.  Still,  the  great  events 
themselves  took  place,  no  doubt,  not  far  from  these  locali- 
ties. But  man  has  prostituted  to  mean,  paltry,  and  selfish 
purposes  all  these  venerable  spots ;  and  the  easy  credulity 
of  thousands  has  encouraged  it.  With  many  of  these,  the 
feeUnr/s  have,  no  doubt,  been  those  of  a  sincere  devotion, 
mingled,  it  may  be,  with  an  ample  shai^e  of  weakness.  To 
err  is  human.  I  would  honour  their  sincerity  and  devo- 
tion. Many  a  penitent  sigh,  many  an  ardent  prayer,  has 
gone  up  to  heaven,  from  amidst  these  localities,  with  ac- 
ceptance ;  and  better,  I  would  say,  the  easy  credulity  that 
believes  on  too  little  evidence,  than  the  cold,  insolent  scep- 
ticism that  proudly  refuses  to  believe,  lest  its  faith  should 
be  counted  for  weakness. 

The  British  consul,  Mr.  Finn,  kindly  invited  me  to  spend 
the  evening  at  his  house,  to  meet  the  literary  society, 
which  has  been  some  little  time  established  at  Jerusalem, 
and  which  promises  to  render  much  service  in  connexion 
with  all  questions  touching  the  natural  histoiy,  antiquities, 
and  social  condition  of  Palestine.  A  library  and  a  museum 
are  being  formed,  and  are  much  encouraged  by  friends  in 
England.  I  passed  two  or  three  hours  there  very  plea- 
santly, although  fewer  members  than  ordinary  happened 
to  be  present.  Mr.  Reichards,  jun.,  read  a  brief  paper  on 
the  elevations  of  several  of  the  mountains  of  Syria.  Mr. 
Finn  read  part  of  his  journal,  during  a  journey  which  he 
had  made  last  October  in  tiie  north. 

The  next  morning  was  cloudy,  rainy,  and  cold.  As  soon 
as  it  began  to  clear  up,  I  commenced  my  walks,  and  pro- 
ceeded first  to  the  Jaffa  Gate,  and  from  thence,  outside  the 
wall,  to  the  lower  pool  of  Gihon,  now  dry,  but  a  remark- 


453  POOL  OF  SILOAM. 

able  locality,  and  formed  merely  by  the  excavation  and 
the  filling  up,  at  the  two  extremities,  the  space  across  the 
valley.  The  upper  pool  is  to  the  north-west  of  this,  nearly 
due  west  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  From 
thence  I  proceeded  to  the  Hill  of  Evil  Counsel ;  and  on 
leaving  that,  I  proceeded  by  Aceldama  to  the  fountain  of 
En-rogel,  which  lies  east  of  the  valley  of  Hinnom,  and  just 
at  the  southern  point  of  the  valley  of  Jehoshaphat.  From 
thence,  passing  near  the  singular-looking,  yet  miserable 
village  of  Siloam,  but  on  the  opposite  side  of  "Kedron," 
I  came  to  the  "  Fountain  of  the  Virgin,"  and  then  turned 
again,  under  the  hill  of  Ophil,  to  the  Pool  of  Siloam.  I 
descended  almost  close  to  the  water's  edge,  and  obsei'ved 
the  waters  of  the  pool  "  going  softly,"  and  issuing  out  to 
water  the  "  king's  gardens,"  and  then  ultimately  to  run 
into  Kedron — "  Siloa's  brook,  that  flowed  fast  by  the  oracle 
of  God."  I  counted  six  pillars  on  my  left  hand,  as  I  stood 
at  the  entrance  under  the  archway,  near  the  lowest  part  of 
the  pool.  These  may  have,  perhaps,  originally  supported 
some  roof ;  or  there  may  have  been  porches  between  them, 
as  mentioned  in  the  case  of  the  Pool  of  Bethesda. 

From  the  Pool  of  Siloam  I  proceeded  across  the  Ty- 
ropeon  up  to  Zion,  the  city  of  David,  leaving  the  tomb  of 
David  on  my  left,  and  from  thence,  by  the  Armenian  con- 
vent, to  Mr.  Meshullam's.  Here,  after  transacting  some 
business.  I  set  out  to  visit  the  Jews'  place  of  Availing, 
where  they  assemble  on  a  Friday  to  mourn  over  the  deso- 
lations of  Jerusalem.  It  is  immediately  under  a  part  of 
the  western  wall  of  the  mosque.  From  thence  I  went  to 
visit  the  remains  of  the  ancient  bridge  that  led  from  IMoriah 
to  Zion,  across  the  Tyropeon,  and  which  has  been  well 
pointed  out  by  Eobinson,  and  perfectly  described  in 
'•  Bartlett's  Walks  round  Jerusalem." 

On  the  Simday — the  only  Sunday  I  spent  in  the  city — 
I  attended  service  at  the  English  church.  It  was  wholly 
conducted  by  Dr.  Gobat.  It  is  an  appropriate  building, 
and  occupies  a  suitable  locality  on  Mount  Zion,  not  far 


MOUNT  OF  OLIVES.  453 

from  the  towers,  supposed  to  be  those  of  David  and  Hip- 
picus,  near  the  Jaffa  Gate.  There  might  be  seventy  or  eighty 
persons  present.  The  bishop  dehvered  an  excellent  and 
thoroughly  evangelical  discourse,  from  the  latter  part  of 
Matthew  xxv.     He  read  prayers  with  much  solemnity. 

In  the  afternoon  I  thought  it  would  be  no  violation  of 
the  sacredness  of  the  day  to  visit  "  Gethsemane,"  and  the 
"  Mount  of  Olives,"  and  the  "  village  of  Bethany."  I  did 
so  ;  and  took  the  grotto  of  Jeremiah  on  my  way,  including 
also  the  alleged  tomb  of  Mary,  and  the  reputed  tombs  of 
Absalom,  Zechariah,  &c. 

The  view  of  Jei'usalem  from  the  summit  of  Olivet  is 
extremely  interesting;  and,  in  the  recollection  of  our 
Lord's  there  weeping  over  it,  and  delivering  his  prediction 
concerning  it,  it  is  most  affecting.  The  locality  of  the 
Church  of  the  Ascension  must  be  left  among  the  traditions 
of  men.  The  grotto  of  Jeremiah  is  curious,  and  worth 
seeing.  Bethany  has  great  interest ;  though  I  question 
whether  the  tomb  or  house  of  Lazarus  be  really  the  veritable 
sites.  Enough,  that  here  the  Saviour  often  resorted.  One 
could  not  ascend  the  Mount  of  Olives  without  many  recol- 
lections that  here  the  Saviour  and  his  disciples  often  came. 
The  exact  spot  that  bears  the  rejDute  of  being  "  Geth- 
semane," is  inclosed  by  a  high  wall ;  and  as  we  had  not 
obtained  the  key  from  the  Latin  convent,  we  could  not 
enter  it.  There  are  eight  old  olive  trees  there ;  but  many 
ancient  olive  trees  are  found  in  the  same  vicinity.  I  was 
satisfied  with  those  exterior  to  the  inclosure.  I  could  not 
believe  tliat  the  trees  within  the  wall  could  be  those  that 
existed  1800  years  ago  ;  though  it  is  just  possible  that  they 
may  have  sprung  from  the  same  roots  and  occupy  the  same 
locality.  But  the  Saviour's  visits  for  devotion  may  have 
been  among  those  other  spots  on  the  mountain's  side,  and 
not  precisely  on  the  spot  now  inclosed.  I  felt  that  I  was 
near  that  locality  to  which  he  often  came,  and  where  "  he 
poured  out  strong  crying  and  tears  to  Him  that  is  able  to 
save,  and  was  heard  in  that  he  feared."     The  exact  spot 


454  VILLAGE  OF  BKTHAXT. 

from  whence  he  is  said  to  have  ascended  is  also  pointed 
out ;  but  not  at  Bethany,  as  the  sacred  historian  relates, 
and  which,  of  course,  I  believe  to  have  been  the  case,  but 
just  on  the  summit  of  the  hill.  There  is  a  square  inclosure, 
and  within  that  another  of  small  dimensions  ;  and  the  veiy 
stone  is  there  from  whence  he  arose  !  Too  minute  all 
this  to  demand  one's  faith.  "  He  led  them  out  as  far  as 
Bethany." 

From  the  summit  of  the  Mount.  I  proceeded  to  "  the 
village  of  Bethany,"  "  the  village  of  IMan.-,  and  ISIartha, 
and  Lazarus."  It  stands  at  a  convenient  distance  from 
Jerusalem.  It  is  a  village  of  humble  pretensions  and  quiet 
retreat,  after  the  fatigues  of  a  day  in  Jerusalem.  At  present 
there  is  nothing  of  interest  or  importance,  except  its  his- 
torical associations.  Here  the  Saviour  often  came  with 
his  disciples  ;  here  he  proclaimed  himself,  on  the  death 
of  Lazarus,  to  be  the  "resurrection  and  the  life;"  and 
liere  he  revealed  his  power,  in  raising  from  the  dead  his 
friend  Lazarus,  who  had  already  been  four  days  in  the 
grave  and  was  turning  to  coiTuption.  The  ruins  of  the 
house  of  Lazarus  are  shown,  and  also  the  very  tomb  from 
which  he  was  raised  up,  by  that  voice  which  at  last  shall 
summon  forth  from  their  tombs  all  that  are  in  their  graves. 
The  remains  of  the  house  exhibited  as  having  been  the 
residence  of  Lazarus  and  his  sisters  are,  no  doubt,  of  great 
antiquity,  and  possibly  maij  be  what  they  are  by  tradition 
affimied  to  be.  I  felt  no  certainty  in  the  case,  and  there- 
fore no  superstitious  reverence  for  the  f^pot ;  but  that  this 
is  the  village  to  which  so  much  reference  is  made  by  the 
Evangelists,  there  can  be  no  question  ;  and  this  is  of  course 
about  the  place  where  the  miracle  of  the  resurrection  was 
performed,  and  which  so  convinced  many,  that  they  be- 
lieved :  and  "  many  also  of  the  Jews  went  to  see  Lazarus, 
whom  Jesus  had  raised  from  the  dead." 

I  set  out  on  horseback  the  next  morning,  for  Hebron 
and  Bethlehem.  On  my  way  I  passed  out  of  Jerusalem 
by  the  JafiPa  Gate,  near  which  were  many  lepers  lifting  up 


HEBRON.  455 

their  voice  and  asking  alms.  A  little  pecuniary  relief  was 
all  I  c;)uld  give  them.  The  "  miraculous  power  of  healing 
is  passed,"  and  He  who  once  healed  the  ten  lepers,  of 
whom  one  only,  a  Samaritan,  returned  to  give  thanks, 
cannot  now  be  approached  as  in  the  days  of  his  flesh,  when 
his  feet  often  trod  this  locality,  and  "  when  with  a  word  he 
cleansed  lepers,  healed  the  sick,  and  cast  out  demons." 

The  road  to  Hebron  is,  throughout  the  whole  distance, 
extremely  difficult  and  fatiguing.  It  leads  over  a  succes- 
sion of  limestone  hills,  most  rugged  in  their  character. 
One  cannot  proceed  above  three  or  four  miles  an  hour;  and 
to  nie  the  fatigue  was  the  greater,  from  my  having  an  Arab 
saddle  to  ride  on,  with  which  I  am  not  familiar.  The  seat 
of  an  Arab  saddle  is  so  constructed,  as  to  throw  the  legs 
far  back,  and  to  bend  the  knees  forward,  till  I  found  both 
ached  amazingly.  I  tried  to  lengthen  the  stirrups,  but 
they  were  already  stretched  to  their  utmost  extent;  and  in 
default  of  that  mode  of  cure,  I  was  glad,  at  the  end  of  my 
journey,  to  stretch  myself. 

We  passed  the  tomb  of  Rachel,  where  Jacob  interred 
his  beloved,  when  they  were  "  now  come  not  far  from 
Bethlehem."     Genesis  xxxv.  16 — 20. 

We  then  came  to  the  "  Pools  of  Solomon,"  remarkable 
and  stupendous  works  of  antiquity.  Besides  the  exca- 
vation containing  the  spring,  there  are  three  large  pools 
of  equal  width,  but  unequal  length.  The  third  and  lowest, 
or  farthest  from  the  road  to  Hebron,  is  in  the  finest  pre- 
servation ;  and  from  this  the  water  is  convoyed,  by  an 
excellent  old  aqueduct,  to  Bethlehem. 

On  approaching  Hebron  —  or,  as  pronounced  here, 
"  Chabroii,'''  we  had  to  proceed  between  high  stone  walls, 
covered  with  dry  thorns,  serving  to  inclose  the  vineyards, 
which  exist  here  on  a  very  large  scale.  In  every  vineyard 
there  is  a  "  tower,"  where,  in  the  grape  season,  the  watch- 
men keep  guard  against  roving  marauders.  The  larger 
stones  are  picked  out  from  the  vineyards,  and  used  to  form 
the    inclosing   walls.       The   city  itself  is   evidently  very 


456  HEBRON. 

ancient.  All  its  buildings  have  an  air  of  antiquity;  but  the 
^vhole  place  is  extremely  dirty — wretchedly  dirty.  If  it 
were  the  j)olicy  of  the  Turkish  Government  to  destroy  its 
population,  by  creating  as  much  unwholesome  nuisance  as 
possible,  it  deserves  credit  for  its  success.  There  was  an 
appearance  of  activity  about  the  place.  I  passed  several 
shops  and  manufactures.  They  make  glass  ornaments  ; 
prepare  skins  for  eari-}ing  water  ;  work  in  silver ;  and  fol- 
low other  occupations.  There  are  no  Christians  residing 
here.  Thei-e  are  about  2000  inhabitants,  one-fifth  of  whom 
are  Jews,  and  the  rest  Mahometans.  By  the  Jews  uni- 
versally, it  is  considered  one  of  the  four  sacred  places 
which  they  recognise — Jenisalem,  Tiberias,  Hebron,  and 
Safed.  My  dragoman  conducted  me  to  the  house  of  one 
of  the  Hebrew  nation,  by  whom  he  appeared  to  be  "well 
known  and  much  respected.  The  mother  of  the  family 
received  me  very  courteously,  and  assured  me  I  was  wel- 
come. I  had  brought  my  own  provisions  with  me ;  but 
sweetmeats  and  coffee  were  soon  served  up  by  my  kind 
hostess.  Shortly  after  our  arrival,  a  party  came  in  from 
Mecca,  returning  from  the  pilgrimage.  There  was  much 
shouting  and  rejoicing;  but  the  voice  of  joy  was  quickly 
turned  into  mourning.  Intelligence  was  brought  by  the 
same  parties  of  the  death,  on  the  jom-ney,  of  some  of  their 
friends,  whose  connexions  reside  here  ;  and  a  large  com- 
pany of  women  was  soon  at  the  ^Mohammedan  burial- 
ground,  weeping  loudly.  The  Sheikh  presently  came  to 
the  ground,  joined  the  party,  offered  prayer,  and  all  then 
returned  home.  I  was  conducted  to  a  part  of  the  city 
which  immediately  overlooks  the  burial-jjlace,  where,  it  is 
said,  repose  the  ashes  of  Abraham,  Isaac,  and  Jacob. 

This  spot  is  full  of  interest  in  connexion  with  the 
history  of  the  patriarch  Abram.  Gen.  xxiii.  An  ancient 
name  of  the  city  was,  it  appears  from  the  Mosaic  record, 
"  Kiijath  Arba,"  "  and  the  same,"  it  is  added,  "  is  Hebron." 
There  Sarah,  the  wife  of  Abram,  died;  and  on  that  occa- 
sion it  was  that  Abram  first  obtained  actual  possession 


MACHPELAH,  MAMRE.  457 

of  a  landed  interest  in  Canaan.  He  purchased  a  field 
of  the  son  of  Zohar,  Ephron,  and  paid  him  four  hundred 
currency  shekels  of  silver,  and  had  the  property  duly 
conveyed.  This  spot  was  called  "  Machpelah,  over  against 
Mamre;  the  same  is  Hebron."  Gen.  xxiii.  19.  The  tomb 
which  was  pointed  out  to  us  as  the  burial-place  of  the 
patriarch,  is  said  to  be  also  that  of  Sarah.  Gen.  xxv.  10. 
A  spot  is  pointed  out  as  Mamre,  at  a  short  distance,  and 
a  fine  old  oak  also  is  there,  which  "  tradition  "  says,  is 
that  under  which  Abram  had  his  tent. 

I  could  not  hold  much  conversation  Avith  my  hostess 
or  her  family.  I  could  not  sjieak  Arabic,  and  my  drago- 
man was  not  familiar  with  English.  I  managed  tolerably 
well  with  him  in  all  simple  matters  touching  our  limited 
domestic  economy ;  but  beyond  that,  the  perplexity  from 
the  confusion  of  tongues  is  a  complete  barrier  to  the 
"  feast  of  reason  and  the  flow  of  soul." 

It  was  a  comfortable  room  which  I  occupied  at  the 
house  of  my  Jewish  hostess  ;  it  was  arched  above,  so  as 
to  allow  a  dome  to  the  roof;  two  ancient  windows  looked 
into  the  adjoining  olive  gardens ;  on  each  side  of  the 
room  were  divans,  and  a  lamp  suspended  near  to  the 
part  of  the  room  I  occupied,  affording  me  ample  olive- 
oil  light  as  long  as  I  required  it. 

I  left  Hebron  about  eight  in  the  morning,  and,  accom- 
panied by  two  guides,  went  to  the  spot  shown  as  Mamre, 
and  the  famous  oak  there.  It  is  a  large  valonidi  oak, 
measuring  about  twenty-eight  feet  in  circumference  at 
four  feet  from  the  ground.  Abram,  it  is  stated  in  Genesis, 
"  sat  in  his  tent-door  in  the  plain  of  Mamre."  The  view 
from  the  oak  to  Hebron  is  over  an  extensive  plain.  It 
is  now  cultivated  and  covered  with  vineyards.  Whether 
this,  or  a  plain  south  of  Hebron,  is  the  veritable  Mamre, 
I  know  not ;  but  this,  I  think,  from  the  contiguity  of  the 
tomb,  is  probably  the  true  site. 

I  returned  to  Solomon's  Pools,  and  then,  leaving  the 
direct  road  to  Jerusalem  on  my  left,  went  towards  Bethle 


458  BETHLEHEM. 

hem.  I  soon  came  m  sight  of  the  fertile  valley  at  the 
foot  of  the  pools.  It  is  now  occupied,  and  cultivated  and 
ornamented  by  Mr.  Meshullam.  He  has  the  spot  as  a 
farm,  and  seems  to  be  turning  it  to  good  account.  It 
is  the  best  cultivated  of  any  spot  which  I  have  seen  since 
I  left  Cairo.  It  is  here  that  Solomon  made  his  "  pools," 
and  his  "  hanging-gardens,"  and  planted  his  trees,  as 
described  by  himself.  Eccl.  ii.  4 — 6. 

I  visited  "  Bethlehem,"  the  city  where  the  shepherds 
annoimced  the  wonderful  intelligence  which  angels  had 
conveyed  to  them, — the  advent  of  the  Prince  of  Peace. 
The  town  is  like  the  other  towns  of  Palestine ;  there 
are  many  ancient  buildings,  and  many  ruins ;  much 
poverty,  and  great  discomfort.  I  did  not  remain  long. 
I  visited,  of  course,  the  Cburch  of  the  Nativity,  and  saw 
the  stone  on  which  the  Saviour  was  born,  and  the  crib 
in  which  he  was  placed  ! 

Tradition,  of  course,  has  been  busy  in  a  spot  such  as 
Bethlehem.  Pilgrims  would  naturally  wish  to  see  the 
exact,  spot  where  the  Saviour  was  born.  The  great  fact 
of  his  becoming  incarnate  for  us  men,  and  for  our  salva- 
tion, is  not  enough.  The  minutest  details  are  demanded, 
and  the  demand  is  readily  complied  with.  A  church  has 
been  built,  said  to  be  over  the  very  locality  of  the  birth  ; 
and  a  kind  of  altar,  adorned  with  lamps,  and  screens,  and 
silks,  is  exhibited,  with  a  flat  stone  enriched  with  mosaic 
work,  as  the  precise  and  identical  spot  where  the  Virgin 
Mary  became  the  happy  mother  of  the  promised  Saviour. 

At  a  little  distance  from  this,  lower  down  on  the  right, 
is  a  representation  of  a  cross  or  cradle,  adorned  with 
lamps  also,  as  the  veritable  place  in  the  manger  in  which 
he  was  laid ;  and  yet,  marvellous  to  tell,  all  this  is  far 
beneath  the  surface,  and,  so  far  as  I  could  judge,  hewn 
out  of  the  rock — whereas  there  can  be  little  doubt,  that 
the  meaning  of  the  Scripture  history  is,  that  the  whole 
transaction  took  place  in  a  khan,  or  resting  place  for 
travellers,  which  is  always  on  the  surface  of  the  ground, 


JOURNEY  TO  JERICHO.  459 

and  rather  on  elevated  spots  than  heneath  them.  All 
this  deception,  in  pretending  to  point  out  the  exact 
locality  of  such  marvellous  events,  is  to  me  offensive  and 
annoying.  It  seems  like  making  merchandise,  by  i)riest- 
craft,  of  holy  things,  and  falls  under  the  censure  implied 
in  the  Saviour's  language  :  "  Take  these  things  hence, 
and  make  not  my  Father's  house  a  house  of  merchan- 
dise." 

On  reaching  home,  I  formed  a  plan  to  visit  the  Dead  Sea 
the  next  day,  if  the  weather  would  permit,  and  accord- 
ingly I  set  out,  accompanied  by  Colonel  Willoughby,  of 
Brooklyn,  New  York,  to  Jericho.  We  had  some  hesita- 
tion as  to  the  weather.  It  rained  slightly,  and  threatened 
rather  more.  Still,  as  our  time  was  short  in  Jerusalem, 
we  resolved  on  venturing.  We  engaged  proper  attend- 
ants. "  Security"  is  made  sure  by  a  payment.  The  time 
for  attacks  and  robberies  has  not  long  ceased.  The 
road  to  Jericho  has  not  long  lost  its  unenviable  character. 
Down  to  a  very  recent  period,  it  has  been  dangerous  to 
travel  there,  lest  a  man  should  "  fall  among  thieves,  and 
be  stripped,  robbed,  and  wounded."  But  arrangements 
are  now  made  in  Jerusalem,  with  the  Sheikhs  of  that 
part  of  the  country,  and  payment  being  made,  they 
guarantee  the  traveller's  safety.  The  charge  to  me  was 
24s.  We  formed  a  party,  amounting  to  ten,  on  horse- 
back. A  Russian  General  formed  one  of  our  number, 
who  seemed  going  on  pilgrimage  to  Jordan,  to  bathe 
there,  as  a  devout  member  of  the  Greek  Church.  We 
could  hold  no  conversation  with  him,  as  he  could  speak 
only  Russian  and  German.  Wc  paid  him  attentions,  and 
found  him  pleasant,  gentlemanly,  and  very  exact  in  his 
devotions. 

Much  of  our  road  was  over  rocks,  and  among  ravines, 
where  it  was  impossible  to  proceed  with  much  rai)idity. 
Some  of  tlie  gorges  were  remarkably  abrupt  and  awful, 
forming  good  scenes  for  the  pencil  of  an  artist.  We 
reached  our  village  about  four  o'clock,  and  found  a  wel- 


460  ANCIENT  JERTCHO. 

come  in  an  Arab  hut,  of  a  very  humble  and  homely 
character,  but  we  preferred  it  to  our  tents,  on  account 
of  the  dampness  of  the  ground,  and  the  threatening 
rains. 

Ancient  Jericho  is  pointed  out  at  some  little  distance, 
and  the  ruins  of  a  town  are  there.  Om-  resting  place  was 
probably  where  Gilgal  stood,  and  the  other  site  may  be 
that  which  witnessed  the  Divine  interference  on  behalf  of 
the  favoured  tribes,  when  they  crossed  the  Jordan,  and 
compassed  that  cit}'  seven  days.  The  whole  locality  is  full 
of  interest.  Yonder,  across  the  Jordan,  must  have  been 
the  place  where  the  tribes  assembled  at  the  close  of  their 
forty  years'  wandering  and  training ;  there  Joshua  had  ex- 
horted and  instructed  them  ;  not  far  off,  Moses  had  died  ; 
there  they  crossed  the  river,  whose  waters  fled  astonished 
at  a  presence  and  a  jjower  moi'e  than  human  ;  the  hosts 
crossed  and  trod  the  land  of  promise ;  the  city  of  Jericho 
was  taken,  and  the  hearts  of  all  the  kings  of  the  country 
fainted  when  they  heard  the  intelligence. 

We  retired  to  rest  at  an  early  hour ;  yet  but  little  rest 
could  be  obtained,  fi'om  the  incessant  barking  of  the  dogs. 
Colonel  Willoughby  offered  to  pay  the  master  of  the  house 
the  value  of  his  dog,  if  he  would  shoot  him  to  give  us  a 
little  quietness.  He  said  it  was  impossible.  He  would 
not  kill  the  dog  for  a  thousand  piastres,  (£10).  He  was 
the  guard  of  his  flock,  and  of  his  house  by  night.  But  to 
put  the  matter  to  rest,  the  dog  was  brought  into  the  house  ; 
and  said  my  guide,  defying  all  rules  about  gender,  "He  has 
a  little  son  there  and  wants  to  be  with  him ;"  and  so  it  proved ; 
the  poor  animal  had  puppies  in  a  corner  of  the  habitation, 
and  the  maternal  feelings  were  made  easy,  as  soon  as  the 
parties  embraced  each  other. 

Early  next  morning  we  set  out  for  the  Jordan,  seven 
miles  distant.  We  were  nearly  two  hours  reaching  it. 
The  road  was  on  a  descent  from  the  higher  ground  to  a 
plain,  at  the  termination  of  which  we  found  ourselves  on 
the  banks  of  the  far-famed  sti-eam.     It  was  flowing  along 


THK  JORDAN.  461 

as  a  noble  torrent.  The  late  rains  had  contributed  their 
share  to  its  fulness,  and  it  was  now  deep.  I  felt  no  incli- 
nation to  bathe  in  it.  It  was  too  cold  to  do  so  for  pleasure, 
and  I  had  no  superstitious  belief  in  its  efficacy,  morally  or 
emblematically,  to  induce  me  to  plunge  into  its  rapid 
stream.  Our  Russian  friend  leisurely  undressed  himself 
on  the  bank,  went  through  his  devotional  exercises,  and 
then  walked  down  into  the  stream  ;  where,  finding  it  rather 
difficult  and  dangerous,  he  prudently  called  his  Arab  at- 
tendant, a  powerful  man,  to  accompany  him,  and,  taking 
him  by  the  hand,  he  went  forward  to  a  sufficient  depth — 
plunged  himself  three  times  beneath  the  flood,  then  re- 
turned leisurely — reascended  the  bank,  dressed,  performed 
his  exercises,  and  returned  home.  We  rode  rapidly  forward 
on  account  of  the  cold  and  rain,  and  did  not  see  the 
General  again.  I  confess  I  felt  respect  for  the  good  man  ; 
he  seemed  perfectly  sincere  and  devout,  and  I  dare  say 
was  acting  up  to  the  light  he  possessed,  and  the  religious 
instruction  he  had  received. 

The  banks  of  the  Jordan  are  covered  Avith  vegetation. 
The  time  of  my  being  there  was  not  the  season  for  flowers, 
and  therefore  I  saw  none.  Oleanders  and  willows,  and 
olives  and  other  shrubs,  there  were.  In  the  summer 
season,  the  foliage  must  be  exceedingly  rich  and  beautiful. 
This  is  the  far-famed  river  that  flows  doAvn  from  the 
neighbourhood  of  Csesarea  Philippi,  (now  Baneas),  to  the 
Dead  Sea,  which  itself  gives  name  to  the  plain  or  valley, 
"  the  plain  of  Jordan,"  and  which  plain  is  usually  estimated 
at  about  fifteen  miles  in  width,  having  the  mountains  of 
Moab  on  the  east,  and  the  plains  and  mountains  of  Judea 
on  the  west.  But  there  is  a  painful  dreariness  over  all 
the  scene.  It  must  have  been  far  othei-wise  when  occupied 
by  the  thousands  of  its  ancient  iidiabitants,  the  favoured 
tribes  of  the  seed  of  Abraham,  and  when  diligently  culti- 
vated by  their  industrious  hands,  and  when  receiving 
blessings  from  above ;  but  now  it  is  stripped  of  its  in- 
habitants, and  the  land  mourneth  and  languisheth.    "  The 


462  THE  DEAD  SEA. 

hand  of  the  Lord  is  stretched  out  against  it,  and  his  anger 
is  not  yet  turned  away."  The  people  are  few  in  number  ; 
the  cultivation  is  poor  and  rude  in  the  extreme ;  there  is 
latent  fertility  in  the  soil,  but  industry,  protection,  and 
encouragement  are  wanting — and  the  time  of  Zion's  re- 
demption is  yet  to  come. 

From  the  Jordan  we  proceeded  rapidly  to  the  northern 
extremitv  of  the  Dead  Sea.  We  remained  there  but  a  very 
short  time,  and  then  hastened  to  Nabi  Moyse.  "We  tasted 
the  water  of  the  lake,  and  found  it  extremely  acrid.  Bathing 
in  it  was  out  of  the  question  ;  the  weather  was  far  too 
cold,  rainy,  and  boisterous.  Heavy  clouds  were  coming 
up  from  the  south-east,  and  gave  a  character  of  awful 
gloom  to  the  spot.  Perhaps  such  weather  is  more  in 
character  with  the  history  of  the  locality.  Remembering 
tlie  fate  of  Sodom,  GomoiTah,  and  the  other  cities  of  the 
plain,  one  can  hardly  fancy  that  a  bi-ight  sunshiny  day- 
would  be  in  harmony  Avith  the  spot.  On  that  history, 
concerning  the  plain  that  Lot  chose — the  warning  given 
— the  deliverance  of  Lot — the  destruction  of  his  wife — the 
ruin  of  the  cities — the  geological  changes, — on  these  and 
many  other  points,  I  refer  to  Lynch,  Robinson,  Wilson, 
Russell,  and  a  host  of  valuable  writers  besides. 

We  reached  Nabi  Moyse  about  two  o'clock.  This  is  said 
to  be  the  tomb  of  Moses.  I  marvel  at  the  insolence  of 
men  in  imposing  on  human  credulity,  and  at  the  weakness 
of  credulity,  to  be  so  imposed  on.  The  tomb  of  Moses  I 
when  Scripture  assures  us,  he  was  so  buried,  "  that  no  man 
knew  of  his  sepulchre."  God  himself  interposing,  as  it  were 
by  a  miracle,  to  conceal  the  place  of  his  interment,  lest  the 
Jewish  leader  should  become  an  occasion  of  sin,  as  an 
object  of  idolatrous  worship.  God  is  jealous  of  his  honour. 
At  any  rate,  the  resting  place  of  the  ashes  of  Moses  must 
no  doubt  have  been  in  the  east,  and  not  the  west  of  Jordan, 
— somewhere  in  the  mountains  of  Abarim,  overlooking  the 
plains  of  Jericho,  but  certainly  not  here,  on  the  west  side,  so 
far  in  the  countiy,  too,  as  Nabi  Moyse. 


CISTERN'S  IX  JERUSALEM.  463 

One  very  curious  and  interesting  object  which  I  visited 
in  Jerusalem,  was  an  immense  cistern  or  reservoir,  at  a  great 
depth  under  ground,  not  far  from  the  Church  of  the  Se- 
pulchre and  the  Abyssinian  convent.  We  descended  forty 
footsteps  to  the  surface  of  the  water.  Its  extent  and  depth 
could  not  be  ascertained,  but  there  seemed  a  supply  ade- 
quate to  the  demands  of  the  city  ;  and  this,  in  connexion  with 
other  reservoirs  of  a  similar  nature,  though  not  so  large, 
may  account  for  the  fact,  that,  in  the  history  of  the  various 
sieges  to  which  Jerusalem  has  been  exposed,  the  city  had 
not  suffered  from  a  lack  of  water;  a  lack,  which  the  be- 
siegers in  some  cases  have  sutfei-ed  most  painfully.  Great 
labour  must  have  been  bestowed  on  the  masonry  of  this 
reservoir,  in  the  hewing  out  of  the  excavation  itself,  and  the 
descent  to  it  by  steps,  and  the  hand-balustrading,  and  the 
cementing  the  walls  to  the  height  to  which  the  water  inight 
at  times  rise. 

Having  been  to  see  the  English  Hospital,  the  Diocesan 
School,  and  other  objects  of  interest,  I  completed  my  ar 
rangements  for  leaving  Jerusalem  on  my  way  to  Beyrat,  as 
I  found  there  was  no  probability  of  finding  any  vessel  at 
Jaffa  that  would  suit  my  purpose.  My  dragoman  who 
accompanied  me  from  Cairo,  I  agreed  with  to  take  me 
on  this  further  i^ortion  of  my  journey,  and  to  bring  me  to 
Beyrut  by  way  of  Damascus  in  a  given  number  of  days,  so 
as  to  be  in  lime  for  a  steamer  which  I  then  expected  to 
find  on  the  coast. 

Leaving  Jerusalem,  I  looked  round  again  and  again 
in  every  direction,  to  get  the  most  complete  picture  of 
it  I  could,  and  to  have  the  whole  as  indelibly  impressed  on 
my  mind  as  possible.  I  lamented  the  brevity  of  my  visit. 
I  had  not  been  able  to  examine  all  so  carefully  as  I 
wished ;  but  I  was  thankful  to  have  seen  Jerusalem  and 
other  localities  so  far  as  I  had  done. 

I  would  willingly  have  remained  two  or  three  weeks 
longer,  could  I  have  commanded  the  leisure.  There  was 
much  yet  to  be  seen,  and  more  to  examine ;  but  1  felt  that 


464  LEAVING  JERCS^U^EM. 

I  should  hereafter  read  works  on  Jerusalem  and  the  Holy 
Land  with  more  interest  and  more  intelligence  than  before, 
understand  more  vividly  many  passages  of  Scripture,  and 
perhaps  be  able  to  interest  and  profit  others  by  appropriate 
illustrations.  Upon  the  whole,  I  think  the  ideas  I  had 
formed  of  Jerusalem  and  the  country,  prior  to  my  visit,  were 
tolerably  correct.  Hence,  lam  not  conscious  of  experiencing 
any  strong  feelings  of  surprise  or  disappointment.  Neither 
have  I  felt  much  enthusiasm  enkindled, — certainly  not 
enough  to  constitute  me  a  hermit,  to  go  forth  through 
Europe  to  try  to  stir  up  a  crusade  to  rescue  the  Holy  City 
and  Sepulchre  from  the  hands  of  infidels.  But  I  see  enough 
to  make  me  increasingly  thankful  for  the  kind  Providence 
that  has  given  and  secured  a  liberal  government  to  my 
OAvn  countiy,  to  make  me  jealous  to  guard  its  liberties,  so 
far  as  may  lie  within  my  power  or  influence,  and  to  make 
me  anxious  that  Bi'itain  should  use  by  all  fair  and  legitimate 
means  its  influence  in  promoting  liberality  in  other  govern- 
ments. For  want  of  this, — I  mean,  for  want  of  just,  wise. 
and  benevolent  governments,  Egypt  and  Syria  are  what 
they  are,  and  must  remain  so, — unless  the  governments 
respectively  improve.  And  so  far  as  Great  Britain  has 
influence  with  them,  I  think  it  should  faithfully  and  ■vigor- 
ously employ  it,  as  a  sacred  trust  in  Providence  for  the 
welfare  of  the  people.  I  do  not  see  how  even  Christianity 
can  elevate  these  people  without  a  change  in  the  policy  of 
the  government,  just  because  it  cannot  be  made  to  bear  at 
all  extensively  upon  the  people,  while  the  stern,  unrighteous, 
savage  law  of  Mohammedanism  prevails,  that  condemns  to 
death  the  Mussulman  who  forsakes  and  changes  his  religion. 
I  confess,  I  have  increased  greatly  in  my  abhon-ence  of  that 
religion  in  its  social  aspects.  It  degi'ades  woman  im- 
measurably below  her  just  position.  It  makes  her  com- 
pletely the  mere  mechanical  creature  of  man's  inferior 
passions.  He  may  caress  her  and  guai'd  her  in  her  harem, 
dress  her,  bedizen  her,  lavish  gold,  pearls,  and  jewels, — it  is 
just  to  subordinate  her  altogether  to  himself,  and  to  aid  in 


FERTILITY  OF  THE  SOIL.  465 

gratifying  his  own  sensuality.  No  education,  no  liberty,  no 
mind,  no  independence  for  woman  in  Mohammedanism  ! 
What  is  to  be  done,  then,  for  Mohammedan  nations?  The 
subject  is  worthy  of  a  Christian  essay — a  prize  essay, 
exhibiting  the  countries,  statistics,  conditions,  prospects  of 
Mohammedan  nations,  suggestions  for  modes  of  action, 
and  all  that  can  bear  legitimately  on  the  subject. 

The  destinies  of  Palestine  I  touch  not.  The  land  I  see 
clearly  can  sustain  a  vastly  augmented  population,  even  by 
its  present  imperfect  mode  of  agriculture.  How  much  more 
were  the  modern  improveaients  of  chemistry,  drainage, 
manure,  change  of  crop  and  seed,  &c.,  introduced  ! 

I  left  Jerusalem  by  the  Damascus  gate,  and  took  a  linger- 
ing farewell  of  that  ancient  city  which  I  may  never  expect  to 
revisit,  but  the  reminiscences  of  which  will  ever  be  precious 
to  my  heart.  I  may  no  more  see  the  "  mountains  that  are 
round  about  Jerusalem," — no  more  gaze  on  the  city  once 
so  "compact  together;"  but  if  I  forget  Jerusalem,  my  right 
hand  must  forget  its  cunning,  and  my  tongue  cleave  to  the 
roof  of  my  mouth.  My  prayer  is,  that  the  Lord  may  soon 
"  turn  again  the  captivity  of  his  people,"  and  that  the  salva- 
tion of  Israel  may  come  out  of  Zion. 

The  day  proved  remarkably  fine ;  it  was  cold,  but  clear, 
dry,  and  invigorating.  The  appearance  of  the  country 
north  of  Jerusalem  resembles  that  to  the  south.  It  is  all 
hilly,  yet  the  hill  sides  are  all  cultivated  by  means  of  ter- 
races formed  on  the  horizontal  or  slightly  angular  forma- 
tion itself.  These  terraces  give  a  character  to  tlie  scenery. 
Where  all  seems  sterile,  there  is  fertility.  I  would  say  of 
these  limestone  hills,  as  of  the  sands  along  my  route  from 
Cairo  to  Palestine,  they  seem  saturated  ivitli  fertiiitij.  They 
are  so  now,  under  all  the  disadvantages  of  tlie  present  social 
state  of  the  country,  and  the  manifest  fulfilment  of  pro- 
phecy. Under  auspicious  circumstances,  the  Divine  favour, 
good  secular  government,  and  the  industry  of  tlie  inliabit- 
ants,  the  land  would  yet  assuredly  become  all^that  Moses 
and  the  prophets  have  said  of  it.     We  reached  Deeri,  the 

H  H 


466  SHIT,OH — SYCHAR. 

Beerotli  of  the  Old  Testament,  in  the  afternoon.  Nume- 
rous camels,  laden  with  oil,  were  continually  following  us. 
It  is  taken  to  Jerusalem,  where  it  is  in  large  demand  for 
the  manufacture  of  soap.  The  soda  is  obtained  from  the 
marine  plants  abounding  in  the  region  of  the  Dead 
Sea.  This  is  the  principal  manufacture  in  Jerusalem. 
The  soap  is  of  a  coarse  kind,  and  is  sold  in  small  cakes, 
stamped  with  some  picture  of  a  church  or  other  public 
building. 

We  passed  in  sight  of  the  ruins  of  Beyteem — Bethel — and 
not  far  distant  another  village — Anata — Anathoth,  and 
reached,  before  sunset,  Ain  Yabrood,  where  we  pitched  our 
tent  in  a  patch  of  ground  outside  the  village,  amidst  some 
grumbling  on  the  part  of  its  owner — his  method  of  asking 
for  payment,  which,  of  course,  it  was  our  intention  to  give 
him. 

We  continued  our  journey  towards  Nablous,  the  Shechem 
of  the  Old  Testament,  and  the  Sychar  of  the  New,  The 
country  here  is  too  cold  for  vines,  but  it  seems  favour- 
able for  olives  and  wheat.  We  passed,  at  a  little  distance. 
Silom — Silon.  "the  city  of  the  Silonite,"  that  is  Shiloh, 
where  Samuel  ministered ;  where  Eli  lived  and  died,  and 
where  the  Ark  was  so  long  kept :  a  place  full  of  scriptural 
interest,  but  now  exposed  to  the  ancient  reproach, — "  Go 
now  and  see  what  I  have  done  to  Shiloh,  for  the  wicked- 
ness of  my  people." 

On  approaching  Nablous — Sychar,  we  met  a  large  party 
of  pilgrims  just  returning  from  ]\Iecca,  and  who  were  being 
met  by  their  friends  with  many  congratulations  and  de- 
monstrations of joy. 

I  was  anxious  to  see  the  "Well,  near  to  the  parcel  of 
ground  that  Jacob  gave  to  his  son  Joseph,"  and  where  the 
Saviour  held  his  ever  memorable  conversation  with  "the 
woman  of  Samaria."  Not  meeting  it  so  soon  as  I  expected, 
and  finding  I  was  getting  close  to  the  town,  I  asked  ray 
guide  where  it  was,  and  he  assured  me  it  was  at  the  other 
end  of  the  town.     This  puzzled  me,  as  I  thought  we  had 


JEWS  AND  SAMAPJTANS.  467 

come  by  the  direct  I'oad  from  Jerusalem.  However,  I 
found  there  was  another  direct  road — that,  in  fact,  the  road 
diverges,  on  approaching  the  town,  into  two  parts  ;  and  so 
I  had  to  reserve  for  the  morrow  my  visit  to  the  WelL 

The  situation  of  this  town  is  excellent.  It  has  in  its 
immediate  vicinity  extensive  olive  grounds  ;  in  fact,  it 
stands  in  the  centre  of  plantations.  The  town  itself  is  not 
visible,  on  account  of  the  trees,  till  you  are  close  upon  it. 
I  found  a  residence  for  the  night  at  the  house  of  a  respect- 
able Greek  Christian,  one  of  a  new  body  of  that  church, 
or  rather  of  a  party  separating  from  it  and  calling  them- 
selves Protestant  Greek  Christians.  They  hold  meetings 
among  themselves  for  reading  the  Scriptures  and  prayer. 
They  amount  to  about  thirty  in  the  town.  There  are  400 
members  of  the  Greek  Church,  and  it  is  stated,  '24,000 
Mohammedans,  and  only  40  Jews.  There  are  some  Sama- 
ritans, but  as  of  old,  "  the  Jews  and  Samaritans  have  no 
friendly  intercourse;"  "they  do  not  wish  to  see  each 
other,"  said  my  dragoman.  There  are  Greek  Protestants 
in  several  other  towns,  —  such  as  Nazareth  and  Tiberias. 

In  the  course  of  the  evening,  I  had  some  conversation 
with  some  of  these  Greek  Christians,  though  very  im- 
perfectly, owing  to  my  ignorance  of  the  Arabic,  and  the 
imperfect  acquaintance  my  dragoman  had  with  the  English. 
They  proposed  to  me  some  questions  respecting  ordina- 
tion and  the  power  of  the  priesthood  to  forgive  sin.  It 
was  perplexing  not  to  be  able  to  converse  with  them  freely 
and  fluently.  I  pressed  on  them  the  importance  of  spirit- 
ual worship,  taking  as  my  motto,  our  Lord's  conversation 
with  the  woman  of  Samaria, — "  God  is  a  Spirit,  and  they 
that  worship  him  must  worship  him  in  spirit  and  in  truth." 

I  went  this  morning  to  see  the  Samaritan  synagogue, 
and  on  my  way  was  shown  a  large  room  or  house,  said  to 
be  the  residence  occupied  by  Jacob  when  he  heard  of  the 
death  of  Joseph,  as  related  by  his  brethren  who  had  sold 
him,  and  where  the  fond  fiitlier  wejit  so  bitterly.  There 
is  an  ancient  inscription  on  a  stone  in  the  wall  of  the  syna- 


408  EBAL  AND  GEPJZIM. 

gogue,  said  to  be  as  ancient  as  the  building.  I  wished  I 
could  have  taken  a  copy  of  it.  I  named  it  afterwards  to 
Mr.  Nicolayson,  and  begged  him  to  endeavour  to  procure  it. 
There  is  a  very  ancient  copy  of  the  Samaritan  Pentateuch 
in  the  synagogue,  w^hich  the  rabbi  showed  me,  after  some 
little  coy  reserve.     Its  age  is  not  known. 

One  of  the  most  delightful  and  refreshing  things  to  be 
seen  in  Nablous,  is  the  abundant  supply  of  water.  It  rolls 
through  many  of  the  streets  in  large  streams,  and  might 
be  made  to  keep  the  place  as  clean  as  Eegent-street  itself, 
instead  of  leaving  it,  as  it  actually  is,  dirty  as  the  dirtiest 
part  of  the  east  of  London  in  November  weather. 

A  fine  A'iew  is  obtained  of  the  two  moimtains,  Ebal  and 
Gerizim,  from  the  court  of  the  Samaritan  synagogue. 
These  mountains  of  "  blessing  "  and  "  cursing  "  run  pa- 
rallel to  each  other,  north  and  south — Ebal  on  the  north, 
and  Gerizim  on  the  south.  Sychar  is  built  in  the  valley 
between  them.     See  Deut.  xi.  ^9  ;  and  xxvii.  11 — 13. 

There  stands  a  place  of  worshiji  on  Gerizim  still.  The 
Samaritans  have  an  annual  procession  there  for  religious 
worship.  To  this  mountain  the  Samaritan  Avoman  referred 
in  conversation  Avith  the  Saviour  at  the  well.  The  old 
rabbi  told  me  there  were  Samaritans  at  Paris,  and  that  they 
had  a  synagogue  there.  Nablous  seems  a  busy  place  for  a 
Syrian  town  ;  it  has  an  air  of  industry  about  it  that  is  gra- 
tifying. j\Iany  of  the  people  are  employed  in  the  manu- 
facture of  cotton  cloth. 

We  started  for  Jenin  about  eight  o'clock,  and  proceeded 
first  to  the  icell  of  Samaria.  The  upper  part  is  choked  up. 
but  by  going  down  a  little  distance,  and  removing  a  stone 
that  covers  the  mouth  of  the  well,  it  is  still  found  there, 
and  is  deep.  There  is  a  good  deal  of  masonry  near  the 
well,  indicating  some  buildings  in  former  times.  This  is 
all  on  the  road  from  Jerusalem  in  coming  to  Sychar,  and 
near  to  the  spot  where  that  road  winds  round  the  foot  of 
Gerizim,  in  turning  up  the  valley  towards  Sychar. 

It  was  impossible  to  visit  the  spot — still  retaining  the 


SAMAUIA.  469 

ancient  name  of  Bir  Jacoob,  the  "well  of  Jacob" — ^Yithout 
thinking  much  of  the  visit,  and  scenes  and  conversations 
so  beautifully  and  grapliically  described  by  John,  chapter 
iv.  Near  this  spot  is  shown  Joseph's  tomb,  probably  the 
real  site  of  the  interment  of  Jacob's  beloved  son.  See 
Joshua  xxiv.  32. 

For  a  long  distance  our  route  continued  amidst  cul- 
tivated land,  and  where  figs  and  olives  abounded.  Our 
direct  course  was  to  Sehaste,  the  ancient  Samaria,  and 
chief  city  of  the  kings  of  Israel,  after  the  revolt  of  the 
ten  tribes  under  Rehoboam.  It  is  now  a  poor  village, 
occupied  by  a  few  of  the  Fellahin ;  but  it  was  once  great 
and  noble.  It  had  splendid  buildings  and  a  large  popu- 
lation ;  but  it  is  overthrown,  and  presents  a  scene  of 
dreariness  and  desolation,  just  according  to  the  prophecy 
of  Micah  L  1 — 6.  Lord  Lindsay  says,  "  he  was  never  so 
forcibl}^  struck  with  tlie  fulfilment  of  prophecy,  as  when 
walking  over  the  hill  of  Samaria." 

The  two  things  that  chiefly  attracted  my  notice  were, 
the  remains  of  an  old  church,  of  considerable  architec- 
tural beauty,  some  pillars,  cornices,  and  ])art  of  the  dome 
of  which  yet  remain  tolerably  perfect ;  and  some  pillars, 
standing  in  the  form  of  colonnades,  forming  part  of  the 
two  sides  of  a  quadrangle.  These  are  supposed  to  be 
the  work  of  Herod,  to  whom  the  country  was  indebted  for 
many  magnificent  works. 

We  passed  on  to  Jenin,  and  found  accommodation  in  a 
native  house,  which  was  empty,  and  swept,  but  not  "  gar- 
nished;" and  left  by  the  owner  entirely  for  my  accom- 
modation, and  it  answered  its  purpose  perfectly  well. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Nicolayson  and  his  daughter  were  there, 
on  their  way  back  to  Jerusalem,  from  a  visit  to  the  north. 
They  had  just  come  from  Nazareth.  I  took  tea  with  them, 
and  much  enjoyed  the  hour's  intercourse  I  had  in  their 
society.  Mr.  Nicolayson  is  very  familiar  with  the  country. 
ft  is  twenty-five  years  since  he  first  came  to  Jerusalem,  and 
he  has  been  resident  there  nearly  twenty  years,  in  connexion 


470  PLAIN  OF  ESDRAELOy. 

■with    the    London     Society   for    promoting    Christianity 
among  the  Jews. 

On  our  way  to  Jenin,  we  had  some  fine  views  of  the 
Mediterranean,  stretching  along  the  coast  on  the  west, 
and  a  portion  of  the  famous  vale  of  Sharon.  In  all  this 
part  of  the  country  are  rich  valleys,  and  magnificent  plains, 
with  fine  soil,  capahle  of  sustaining  a  very  large  and 
wealthy  agricultural  iio^julation. 

After  taking  a  view  in  the  morning,  from  an  eminence 
in  the  village,  in  company  with  Mr.  Nicolayson,  of  many 
surrounding  objects, — namely  Carmel,  stretching  out  to  the 
sea,  the  neighbourhood  of  Acre,  and  the  valley  of  Sharon, 
the  great  plains  of  Esdraelon,  and  the  mountains  of 
Gilboa  and  Galilee, — I  commenced  my  journey  to  the 
city  where  the  Saviour  w^as  brought  up  :  but  where,  in- 
dignantly rejected,  because  he  was  of  mean  origin,  "he 
could  not  do  many  mighty  works."  Their  own  incredulity, 
amidst  abounding  evidence,  deprived  them  of  blessings 
they  might  else  so  richly  have  enjoyed. 

It  was  a  most  lovely  morning,  and  my  route  now  lay 
across  the  splendid  valley  of  Jezreel,  the  plain  of  Esdra- 
elon, or  Megiddo — for  it  takes  various  names.  One  advan- 
tage connected  with  our  slow  travelling  with  mules  is. 
that  it  is  possible  to  read  while  riding.  I  did  so  that 
morning.  I  read  the  35th  chapter  of  the  2nd  Chronicles, 
as  recording  events  that  transpired  between  2000  and 
2500  years  ago  in  this  plain  ;  and  Zechariah  xii.,  as  relat- ' 
ing  to  events  that  perhaps  are  yet  future.  Here,  perhaps, 
may  be  the  scene  of  some  great  events  in  the  world's 
future  history,  at  present  wrapped  up  in  the  mysterious 
predictions  of  the  great  battle  of  Ai-mageddon.  It  is  a 
splendid  plain.  Tabor  comes  into  view,  and  Jebel-es- 
Sheikh,  the  Hernion  of  Scripture,  with  its  glorious  and 
snow-capped  summit. 

On  reaching  Nazareth,  we  went  direct  to  the  convent  of 
the  Annunciation.  It  belongs  to  the  Franciscan  friars.  It 
is  newly  built — of  course  perfectly  clean.   It  is  exceedingly 


.    NAZARETH.  471 

comfortable.  The  reception  is  most  courteous,  and  the 
attentions  kind.  No  charge  is  made  ;  some  little  compen- 
sation is  expected,  but  in  all  this  matter  there  is  the 
greatest  hospitality.  I  had  my  own  provisions,  else,  as  my 
visit  was  during  the  "fast"  preceding  Christmas,  my  fare 
must  have  been  very  slender.  The  good  father  who  at- 
tended on  me  was  fasting  daily  till  night,  and  then  he 
confessed  he  felt  rather  hungry.  Nothing  could  induce 
him  to  touch  a  morsel,  not  even  a  crumb  of  bread.  I 
mentioned  to  him,  that  there  are  many  Protestants  who 
"  fast,"  but  yet  take  a  little  morsel  to  assuage  the  gnawings 
of  appetite,  so  that  the  mind  may  be  less  interrupted  by 
the  cravings  of  the  body,  and  thus  serve  God  the  better.  I 
thought  he  might  quietly  assent  to  this,  as  a  good  idea  ;  but 
he  seemed  awfully  shocked,  hung  down  his  head,  and  re- 
mained silent. 

He  took  me  to  see  the  chapel  of  the  Annunciation, 
where  there  is  much  beauty  and  decoration.  Many  lights 
were  burning,  and  two  or  three  more  were  kindled  on  my 
entrance  ;  and  my  guide  himself  devoutly  knelt.  Then 
there  are  shown  the  very  room  where  Mary  sat,  when  the 
angel  Gabriel  announced  to  her  that  she  was  to  be  the 
mother  of  the  Saviour,  and  the  spot  where  Gabriel 
stood,  when  he  announced  the  message  ;  and  a  vei-y  re- 
markable pillar,  in  two  parts — the  upper  i)art  miracu- 
lously sustained,  "  suspended "  without  support,  in  the 
air,  and  the  lower  part  of  the  shaft  in  its  proper  place.  I 
remarked  to  the  friars  who  were  pointing  out  these  things, 
that  the  upper  part  was  granite,  and  the  lower  marble  ! 
on  which,  they  said  something  to  each  otlier  in  Italian, 
that  I  did  not  understand,  and  so  we  came  away.  They 
did  not  show  me,  as  they  usually  do  to  travellers,  the  exact 
spot  where  Joseph  worked  at  his  trade  ;  but  it  is  under 
the  same  roof.  My  scepticism  about  the  marvellous 
pillars  made  them,  1  imagine,  less  inclined  to  show  mo 
other  wonders. 

I  had   a   quiet  evening    in   the   large    salle-ii-manger. 


472  MOUNT  TABOR. 

Being  the  only  traveller  there,  I  had  no  interruption,  and, 
after  enjoying  a  good  night's  rest,  I  -was  prepared  to  start 
for  Tahor  and  Tibei'ias. 

I  took  a  walk  round  the  back  of  the  town,  and  over  the 
hill  that  surrounds  that  portion  of  it,  from  which  an  ex- 
cellent view  is  obtained  of  the  town  and  vicinity.  The 
exact  spot  from  whence  the  ancient  inhabitants  sought  to 
pi'ecipitate  the  Saviour,  when  enraged  against  him  and  his 
doctrine,  is  not  known.  One  site  is  exhibited,  I  believe, 
two  miles  off,  but  that  cannot  have  been  the  spot,  as  it 
was,  says  the  Evangelist,  "  on  the  brow  of  the  hill  where 
the  city  was  built ;"  and  there  is  no  reason  to  believe  that 
the  site  of  the  city  has  been  changed.  There  are  sufficient 
places  near  the  city  now,  at  that  part  of  it  along  which  I 
walked,  where  any  one,  being  rudely  pushed  down,  would 
suffer  much  injury,  even  though  the  fall  might  not  be 
fatal. 

From  Nazareth  it  was  my  intention  to  go  direct  to 
Tabor,  but  by  some  little  mistake  my  guides  conducted 
me  first  to  Kefr  Cana,  "unbelieving"  Cana — a  name  given 
no  doubt  in  contempt  of  the  Christians  by  the  "  Faithful "' 
or  belie^'ing  Mussulmans.  The  very  stigma  implies  that 
there  had  been  something  of  remarkable ^r/<'Z//?/  there. 

We  turned  off  from  this  village  to  Tabor.  It  is  a 
splendid  mountain,  rising  boldly  in  the  midst  of  the 
plain  in  a  semicircular  form,  though  gi-eater  in  the 
length,  apparently,  than  in  the  breadth. 

There  is  much  cultivation  on  many  portions  of  the  side 
which  we  ascended,  consisting  of  grain  and  tobacco.  Oaks 
are  also  abundant,  and  other  shrubs,  and  in  summer 
season  there  are  flowers.  Crocuses  were  the  only  flowers 
we  saw  in  blossom.  The  view  is  fine  from  the  ascent,  and 
must  be  very  commanding  from  the  summit.  I  regret 
I  could  not  manage  to  reach  the  summit,  as  I  felt  I  must 
reach  Tiberias  that  evening,  and  I  prefeiTed  giving  my 
time  to  the  certainties  of  that  locality,  to  the  uncertainties 
attaching  to  the  traditional   interest   of  Tabor.     Still,  I 


LAKE  OF  TIBERIAS.  473 

cannot  say  I  visited  this  beautiful  mountain  without  much 
interest ;  I  would  on  no  account  have  missed  seeing  it, 
and  seeing  as  much  of  it  as  I  did  ;  and  supposing  it  to 
have  been  the  real  scene  of  the  Transfiguration,  perhaps 
I  ascended  quite  as  high  as  the  elevation  on  which  that 
remarkable  transaction  occurred.  I  am  not  aware  of  any 
reason  for  supposing  that  it  took  place  on  the  summit. 
The  Evangelist  says,  "Jesus  led  his  three  favoured  dis- 
diples  into  a  high  mountain  apart."  That  describes  a 
mountain  of  great  elevation,  such  as  Tabor  is,  but  does 
not  of  necessity  imply  that  he  led  them  to  its  summit, 
any  more  than  his  going  to  the  Mount  of  Olives  to  pray 
supposes  that  he  went  to  its  summit  for  the  purpose. 
Gethsemane  is  shown  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 

But  the  Old  Testament  notices  of  Tabor  have  their 
interest,  and  the  Psalmist's  allusion  to  it  also  ;  "  Tabor 
and  Hermon  shall  rejoice  in  thy  name."  All  along  this 
road  there  is  a  fine  view  of  Hermon,  or,  as  it  is  now  called, 
Jebel  es  Sheikh,  "  a  sheikh  or  prince  of  a  mountain,"  a 
title  of  honour  which  it  seems  well  entitled  to. 

We  had  passed  in  our  way  the  ruins  of  a  village  called 
Cana,  not  now  inhabited,  but  said  to  be  the  ancient 
Cnna,  where  the  water  was  converted  into  wine.  We  left 
it  at  some  little  distance  before  reaching  Kefr  Cana. 

Every  now  and  then  we  got  a  view  of  the  Lake  of  Tibe- 
rias, and,  on  approaching  it,  the  view  certainly  was  fine. 
The  lake  was  perfectly  tranquil,  embosomed  amidst  the 
surrounding  hills — not  a  breatli  ruffled  its  waters.  It 
seemed  as  though  nothing  could  lash  such  "  eqtianimity  " 
into  a  rage — as  though  nature  couUl  not  afford  to  permit 
anything,  capable  at  one  time  of  such  perfect  placidity, 
to  exhibit  fury  and  passion  at  another.  But  there  are 
anomalies  in  the  physical  as  well  as  the  moral  world — as 
in  the  histoiy  of  the  Dead  Sea.  The  morning  rose  with 
smiles  "  as  Lot  entered  Zoar;  "  but  the  heavens  presently 
})Oured  down  sulphureous  fires  on  the  other  cities  of  the 
verdant  plain  ;  and,  ere  that  sun  had  sunk  in  the  western 


474  TIBEl'.IAS. 

sky,  the  heavens  and  the  earth  had  warred  against  these 
devoted  cities,  and  the  smoke  from  their  huniiug  ascended 
as  from  a  vast  furnace. 

We  soon  found  ourselves  winding  through  the  few  and 
sordid-looking  streets  of  Tiberias  ;  and  found  a  comfort- 
able residence  at  the  house  of  a  Mr.  Wiseman,  [jwt  the  car- 
dinal, but)  a  Jew  from  Austria.  Travellers  generally  put 
up  at  his  house  as  a  temporary  hotel,  and  its  accommo- 
dations are  acceptable.  I  walked  through  the  town  and  its 
miserable  bazaar.  I  saw  no  boat  on  the  lake,  and  it  is 
only  occasionally  the  men  obtain  fish  there.  All  the  coun- 
try indicates  ancient  volcanic  action — all  consists  of  basalt, 
from  the  summit  of  the  hill  to  the  base. 

In  the  morning  I  went  to  the  hot  baths.  The  old  dila- 
pidated building  where  they  were  formerly  used,  is  left  to 
fall  to  mins.  A  new  and  commodious  bath  was  built  by 
Ibrahim  Pasha.  Most  of  his  works  in  this  country  have 
been  destroyed  by  the  Turkish  Government,  since  Ibrahim 
withdrew  from  the  country ;  but  baths  were  so  much  to 
their  own  taste,  that  they  have  left  them  standing. 

Tiberias  has  always  been  a  celebrated  place  among  the 
Jews,  and  is  still  deemed  one  of  their  four  sacred  places. 
The  other  three  are  Jerusalem,  Safed,  and  Hebron.  The 
dresses  here  are  yerj  various  among  the  Jews,  diifering 
according  to  the  costume  of  the  country  from  whence  they 
come.  It  is  still  a  place  of  some  resort  for  studious  Jews 
from  different  parts  of  the  world ;  for  these  descendants  of 
the  patriarchs  are  still  a  literary  and  studious  people.  It 
would  be  of  some  interest  to  know  how  many  of  the  pro- 
fessors of  the  German  universities  are  Jews,  and  how  many 
of  these  have  become  Eationalists.  I  fear  few  of  them  are 
expecting  a  Messiah,  in  the  sense  of  their  own  prophets. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  city,  we  came  to  the  ruinous  and 
l^oor  village  of  Mejdala,  thought  to  be  the  ancient  Magdala, 
whence  Mary  of  Magdalene  derived  her  name.  Blackberry- 
bushes  abound  here,  and  the  wild  cyclamen  flower.  The 
village  is  inhabited,  but  on  a  very  small  scale.     There  is 


THORNS  AND  THISTLES.  475 

also  a  little  cultivation  of  tlie  soil ;  but  all  is  poverty  and 
destitution.  Of  Chorazin  and  Bethsaida  I  could  hear  no- 
thing. Against  them  a  sentence  was  jjronounced  eighteen 
centuries  ago  :  "  And  though  heaven  and  earth  pass  away. 
His  word"  (who  pronounced  it)  "  fails  not."  We  passed 
the  ruins  of  Tel  Ouni  at  a  little  distance,  which  are  thought 
to  be  those  of  Capernaum — Capernaum,  once  exalted  to 
heaven,  and  now  cast  down  to  Hades,  so  that  no  man  can 
say  with  certainty  even  where  the  city  stood. 

As  it  was  my  intention  to  visit  Damascus,  on  my  way  to 
Beyrut,  I  now  kept  bearing  to  the  north,  towards  the  sources 
of  the  Jordan,  and  did  not  therefore  proceed  to  the  coast 
to  visit  Carmel,  Tyre,  or  Sidon. 

The  grandest  object  in  all  this  part  of  the  route  was 
Mount  Hermon.  It  increased  in  grandeur  as  we  ad- 
vanced towards  it.  It  rises  11,000  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  and  is  capped  with  snow  many  hundred  feet  from 
its  summit. 

On  losing  sight  of  the  Lake  of  Tiberias,  we  soon  came 
in  view  of  another,  a  much  smaller  lake,  El  Hoole,  anciently 
the  waters  of  Merom.  These  waters  fall  by  a  narrow  stream 
into  the  Sea  of  Galilee.  This  smaller  lake  is  supplied 
from  the  sources  of  the  Jordan,  and  which  are  not  very  far 
distant  from  it. 

We  pitched  our  tent  in  the  afternoon  in  an  open  piece 
of  ground  at  Melahy,  a  small  village,  not  capable  of  aflbrd- 
ing  us  any  accommodation  worth  accepting.  The  nights 
were  now  cold,  and  the  people  with  me  were  anxious  to  be 
in  huts,  instead  of  tents,  whenever  it  was  practicable. 

I  was  struck  witli  the  universal  abundance  of  thorns  and 
thistles  over  all  this  part  of  the  countiy,  and  in  fact  over 
other  parts  of  the  country  also  ;  and  it  has  frequently  and 
vividly  brought  to  my  recollection  the  ancient  i)re(liction  of 
Isaiah  :  "  Thorns  also  and  thistles  shall  come  up  on  the 
land  of  my  people,  until  the  Spirit  be  poured  out  from  on 
high."  The  threatening  is  most  literally  accomplished. 
Oh  for  the  speedy  coming  of  the  auspicious  period,  when 


476  WOMEN  CARRYING  BURDENS. 

the  Spirit  shall  be  poured  out  in  the  liberal  and  effective 
sense  intended ;  and  when,  with  the  moral  and  spiritual 
changes  produced,  the  physical  aspects  of  nature  shall 
also  be  changed,  and  the  thorn  and  thistle  no  more  infest 
the  ground !  The  present  extensive  continuance  of  the 
curse  seemed  to  me  to  imply,  that  the  Spirit  was  not  yet 
poured  out  in  the  sense  intended  by  the  prophecy.  With 
this  expectation  of  the  pouring  out  of  the  Spirit  on  the 
people  of  the  land,  may  perhaps  be  connected  the  prediction 
of  Zechariah,  "  I  v,'ill  pour  out  upon  the  house  of  David 
and  inhabitants  of  Jerusalem  the  Spirit  of  grace  and  sup- 
plication ;  "  and  with  that  stand  connected  the  repentance 
and  restoration  of  Israel. 

Geologically,  all  this  portion  of  the  countiy  consists  or 
basalt,  limestone,  and  marble  ; — botanically,  it  consists  of 
thistles,  fennel,  and  ci'ocuses.  There  are  scarcely  any 
trees.  Wood  is  brought  from  a  distance,  and  is  very  dear. 
I  met  four  women  carrying  heavy  burdens  of  it,  and  occa- 
sionally asses  laden  with  it.  I  pitied  the  women  ;  it  is  a 
work  too  hard  for  them,  and  man  is  a  brute  to  force  it  on 
them.  No  wonder  many  of  the  women,  so  oppressed,  have 
coarse  and  repulsive  features.  I  say  not  this  to  depreciate 
so  noble  a  portion  of  the  Creator's  workmanship,  but  to 
condemn  man's  oppressive  crtielty,  for  such  usage  has  de- 
prived woman  of  nearly  all  that  is  feminine  in  appearance, 
gentle  in  manner,  and  lovely  in  spirit.  I  apply  the  remark 
to  Mohammedanism  among  the  lower  classes,  and  to  much 
of  heathenism  everj'where. 

We  proceeded  next  towards  "  Baneas,"'  the  ancient 
Cesarea  Philippi,  which  we  intended  making  our  halting 
place  for  the  night.  The  plain  of  El  Ghor,  over  which  we 
passed,  is  well  watered.  There  we  found  a  long  straggling 
village  of  Bedouin  Arabs,  dwelling  as  usual  in  tents,  some 
of  which  were  made  of  rushes,  and  others  of  skins.  They 
were  perfectly  black,  "  black  as  the  tents  of  Kedar."  There 
appeared  to  be  numerous  families  residing  there.  The 
cattle  are  finer  than  I  had  before  seen  in  Palestine.     The 


RUINS  OF  BANEAS.  477 

plain  "whicli  we  crossed  was  monotonous  in  the  extreme : 
not  a  single  flower  was  peeping  forth  ;  no  birds  were  carol- 
ling in  the  sky ;  no  land  shells  were  to  be  found  in  that 
basaltic  soil.  The  only  sound  on  the  plains  was  that  of  the 
bells  attached  to  the  necks  of  our  mules,  till,  on  approach- 
ing a  village,  the  children's  cheerful  shouts  became  audi- 
ble ;  and  the  watch-dog's  bark  was  the  next  welcome  note 
of  civilization. 

The  lofty  castle,  or  rather  extensive  ruins  of  the  castle 
of  Baneas,  now  came  in  sight,  at  about  seven  or  eight 
miles  distance.  The  village  of  Baneas  is  poor  and  limited. 
Near  the  town  are  some  fine  streams  that  belong  to  the 
sources  of  the  Jordan,  gushing  out  from  beneath  a  lime- 
stone rock  ;  but  cannot  be  the  very  sources  themselves, 
for  there  are  streams  higher  up,  that  fall  into  the  river 
below  this  locality.  There  are  many  streams  flowing  from 
Hermon  and  Baneas  which  bear  respectively  local  names. 
Perhaps  the  Jordan  may  properly  be  considered  as  com- 
mencing where  several  of  those  streams  unite,  a  few  miles 
south-west  of  Baneas.  • 

The  silk-worm  is  cultivated  here  with  much  care.  There 
are  1  tooths  in  the  village  near  the  houses  of  the  people 
where  they  keep  the  worm.  The  mulberry-tree  is  exten- 
sively cultivated  for  the  purpose.  We  j^ass  by  large  plan- 
tations of  it.  Some  of  the  trees  are  old.  The  young  shoots 
or  Ijranches  are  cut  off'  every  year  as  our  willows  in  Eng- 
land. I  observed  also  many  line  plantations  of  young 
mulberry-trees.  All  this  speaks  well  for  the  industry  of 
the  inhabitants.  In  fact,  1  did  not  meet  with  many  signs 
of  idleness  on  my  route.  But  there  is,  witli  all  this,  every 
appearance  of  poverty  and  discomfort,  as  though  the  peo- 
j)le  either  did  not  know  how  to  enjoy  what  they  possess, 
or,  Vvhich  I  suppose  is  really  the  case,  arc  afraid  to  ap])car 
to  possess  wealth,  lest  it  should  awaken  cupidity  and  oj)- 
pre.«sion  on  the  part  of  their  i  ulcrs. 

Leaving  Baneas,  and  wending  our  way  across  the  hills, 
and  ascending  to  high  ground,  we  had  fine  views  of  all  the 


478  DRUSES DAMASCUS. 

surrounding  country.  A  Druse  woman  passed  us,  having 
on  her  forehead,  agi-eeably  to  the  custom  of  the  country, 
a  projecting  horn,  and  from  which  a  veil  descended  that 
covered  her  face.  This  was  the  first  which  I  had  seen. 
It  had  a  most  singular  and  by  no  means  a  graceful  appear- 
ance. It  is  made  of  silver  or  gold,  for  those  who  can 
afford  the  precious  metals  ;  of  tin  or  copper  for  the  poorer 
classes.  It  is  hollow  and  conical.  It  is  fixed  to  a  small 
pad,  and  is  fastened  to  the  forehead  by  bands.  It  would  be 
sadly  in  the  -way  if  worn  in  our  omnibuses  !  It  is  possible 
that  some  passages  in  the  Psalms  may  allude  to  this 
singular  and  ancient  custom. 

The  Druses  inhabit  some  of  the  fastnesses  of  Lebanon. 
Their  religious  tenets  are  shrouded  in  mystery.  They 
seem  to  believe  in  the  Unity  of  God  and  in  the  transmi- 
gration of  souls  ;  but  think  that  in  some  way  Adam  came  to 
possess  the  Godhead,  and  that  long  afterwards  the  founder 
of  their  system,  Caliph  Hakem  did  the  same  ! 

After  resting  for  a  night  at  the  Mohammedan  village  of 
Kafr  Howa,  and  another  night  at  Artoos,  where  there  is  a 
khan,  and  over  the  gateway  a  couple  of  rooms  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  travellers,  I  set  out  for  Damascus. 

The  long  line  of  dark  foliage  of  the  gardens  and 
plantations  which  surround  Damascus,  had  been  in  sight 
nearly  the  whole  of  the  previous  day,  together  Avith  some 
white  buildings  just  peeping  out  among  them.  But  in  the 
approach  to  Damascus  from  the  south,  which  was  my 
line  of  road,  there  was  no  striking  view  of  the  city.  In 
fact,  it  is  not  seen  until  tlie  traveller  is  almost  close  upon 
it,  being  so  entirely  surrounded  by  trees.  After  about  two 
hours  and  a  half's  I'ide  from  Artoos,  we  came  to  the  exterior 
portion  of  the  gardens.  It  occupied  fully  half  an  hour 
more  before  we  passed  through  them,  and  nearly  the  same 
time  in  reaching  the  hotel,  (Hotel  de  Palmyra),  which  is 
kept  by  a  Greek,  and  is  the  only  one  in  Damascus  to 
which  Europeans  resort.  My  long  ride  from  the  gate  by 
which  I  entered,  gave  me   an  opportunity  of  seeing  this 


DAMASCUS.  479 

most  ancient  city.  Though  it  has  some  things  in  common 
with  Cairo  and  Jerusalem,  it  has  its  own  character.  It 
was  a  noble  street  as  to  width,  through  which  I  passed 
on  entering  the  town,  yet  the  houses  and  shops  have  a 
miserable  appearance  on  the  outside.  Nearly  all  the 
buildings  are  plastered  with  a  light  brown  coloured  mor- 
tar. The  exterior  affords  little  indication  of  wealth  or 
comfort.  But  there  is  great  animation,  a  great  show  of 
industry  all  over  the  place ;  men,  women,  and  children  are 
all  busy.  The  shops  are  full  of  goods,  and  manufactories 
seem  all  brisk.  My  first  object  was  to  get  a  bath — a 
thoroughly  good  Turkish  bath.  This  I  did,  and  found  it 
exceedingly  refreshing  after  my  long  journey.  I  found  it 
preferable  to  those  of  Cairo.  At  Jerusalem  there  was  no 
bath  fit  to  go  into ;  all  there  are  extremely  dirty.  ■ 

Damascus  is  most  amply  supplied  with  water.  I  do  not 
wonder  that  Naaman  was  so  proud  of  the  rivers  of  his  city. 
The  Barada  is  supposed  to  be  the  Pharpar  of  Scripture. 
It  is  uncertain  what  stream  now  exists  that  was  called  the 
Abana. 

My  attention  was  next  directed  to  the  bazaars.  I 
engaged  a  cicerone,  a  fine  old  Jew,  Ibrahim  Soliman, 
who  is  well  recommended  by  former  travellers  for  intelli- 
gence and  civility.  I  accompanied  him  through  several 
bazaars,  and  through  the  lanes  running  between  the  gardens; 
Avent  to  see  the  fine  old  arch  or  gate  near  the  mosque,  then 
took  a  peep  into  the  court  of  the  mosque,  as  far  as  is  per- 
mitted—  St.  Thomas's  gate,  and  then,  having  reached 
outside  the  walls,  my  guide  led  me  up,  not  a  hill,  for  there 
is  none  near  Damascus,  but  a  mound  or  heap  of  rubbish 
and  from  the  summit  of  it  he  pointed  out  the  extent  of 
Damascus,  Avith  its  110,000  inhabitants. 

Damascus  was  unusually  full  at  that  time,  in  consequence 
of  the  number  of  pilgrims  [Hadji]  just  returning  from 
Mecca.  Here  were  Arabs  in  abundance,  Sheikhs  and  their 
followers,  Jews  from  many  nations,  Turks,  Armenians. 
Greek  and  Syrian  Christians,     The  women  walk  about  in 


480  MOHAMMEDAN  LAW. 

large  m  hite  robes,  with  their  faces  veiled  with  dark  coloured 
silk  handkerchiefs.  The  childrei^  are  very  good-looking, 
fine,  healthy,  and  strong,  and  not  many  of  them  troubled 
with  sore  eyes  as  in  Egypt.  Three  English  gentlemen 
arrived  at  Damascus  from  Beyrut  and  Baalbec  on  the 
Sunday  evening;  and  came  to  the  same  hotel  where  I  had 
taken  up  my  quarters.  They  had  lately  arrived  from  Liver- 
pool. Mr.  Moss,  one  of  the  party,  came  out  in  command 
of  a  steamer,  the  "Nile,"  and  was  making  arrangements 
for  establishing  a  regular  line  of  steam  communication 
direct  between  Liveipool,  Beyrut  and  Alexandria.  His 
vessel  would  shortly  leave  Beyi-ut.  This  would  just  leave 
me  time  to  visit  Baalbec,  and,  if  all  were  well,  to  have  two 
or  three  days  at  command  at  Alexandria,  before  finally 
embarking  for  England. 

I  called  on  Dr.  Paldin,  American  Missionary,  and  had  the 
pleasure  of  meeting  also  another  member  of  the  Mission. 
Mr.  Porter,  from  Ireland.  There  are  four  Missionaries  at 
Damascus,  connected  with  the  associated  Presbyterian 
Churches  of  America  and  Ireland.  The  Missionaries  are 
supported  by  the  Societies  of  those  countries  respectively, 
but  voluntarily  unite  on  the  spot  in  forming  one  mission. 
They  seem  encouraged  in  their  labours,  which  are  directed 
to  the  Christian  population  of  Damascus,  and  in  part  also 
to  the  Jews.  They  have  no  direct  access  to  the  Mohamme- 
dan population.  The  Mohammedan  law  condemns  to  death, 
and  actually  inflicts  the  punishment  on  any  one  of  their 
sect  embracing  Christianity.  It  seems  that  a  man  was  put 
to  death  a  few  years  since,  who  had  been  a  Christian,  and 
renounced  it  for  the  profession  of  Mohammedanism.  On 
renouncing  IMohammedanism  and  returning  to  Christianity 
he  was  condemned  to  die.  The  ambassadors  at  Constanti- 
nople interfered  on  his  behalf,  and  were  promised  by  the 
Turkish  Government,  that  at  any  i-ate  nothing  should  be 
decided  in  the  case  of  the  man  till  the  government  had  first 
communicated  with  them.  In  defiance  of  the  promise,  the 
man  was  beheaded.     This  afforded  a  strong  gi'Oimd  of  re 


INSURKECTION  AT  ALEPPO.  481 

monstrance,  and  the  law  was  then  modified  in  favour  of 
parties  returning  from  Mohammedanism  to  Christianity, 
but  left  it  in  the  same  state  as  affecting  all  others. 

It  being  Christmas-day,  and  no  English  services  being 
held  in  Damascus,  except  one  which  I  conducted  in  my 
own  room,  we  went  to  the  Roman  Catholic  chapel.  It  is,  I 
suppose,  part  of  a  large  Turkish  house,  and  has  been 
decorated  for  its  present  purposes.  The  organ  is  wretched 
and  the  singing  bad.  The  only  pleasant  voice  was  that  of 
the  priest,  who  was  gorgeously  bedizened  on  the  occasion. 
I  was  suffering  from  headache,  and  was  rather  glad  of  it  as 
an  excuse  for  leaving  the  place  before  the  service  concluded. 
There  was  everything  to  make  one  regret  that  such  should 
be  the  perverted  exhibition  of  Christianity,  in  the  midst  of  a 
place  where  the  purest  and  brightest  form  of  Divine  truth 
should  be  unfolded. 

We  learned  here  that  the  outbreak  at  Aleppo,  which  had 
proved  fatal  to  several  of  the  Christians,  had  been  completely 
suppressed.  General  Bem  had  bombarded  the  Mussulman 
part  of  the  town,  and  many  of  the  people  perished.  The 
Ottoman  government  had  decreed  that  the  Mussulmans 
should  rebuild,  at  their  own  cost,  all  the  Christian  churches 
which  they  had  demolished,  and  refund  the  property  stolen, 
or  otherwise  destroyed. 

This  is  the  first  measure  of  the  kind  adopted  by  that 
government,  and  has  been  adopted  solely  through  the 
vigorous  and  resolute  steps  of  the  European  ambassadors. 
This  decided  suppression  of  the  emeute  at  Aleppo  saved 
Damascus,  and  perhaps,  all  Syria,  from  similar  acts  of 
violence.  I  heard  it  stated,  that  there  Avas  eveiy  reason 
to  believe,  there  would  have  been  an  insurrection  in 
Damascus,  and  much  violence  attending  it,  had  not  the 
news  arrived  of  the  strong  measures  adopted  by  the 
Turkish  government  in  reference  to  Aleppo.  General 
Bem,  it  was  added,  had  since  died.  He  had  long  suffered 
from  wounds,  and  had  had  a  ball  extracted  from  his  thigh 
in  England.     He  had  always   refused  to   take  medicine. 

IX 


483  JEWISH  HOUSES  IN  DAMASCUS. 

A  short  time  since  lie  became  woi-se,  agreed  to  take  medi- 
cine, and  died. 

Eents  are  extremely  low  in  Damascus.  The  hotel 
where  I  was  staying  was  spacious  and  in  good  condi- 
tion. A  large  room,  in  which  a  native  musical  perform- 
ance was  held  last  night,  seemed  to  me  nearly  as  large  as 
Crosby  Hall  itself,  and  quite  as  lofty.  They  can  make 
up  from  twenty  to  thirty  beds ;  and  yet  the  rent  is  only 
j630  per  annum.  It  belongs  to  a  Jewish  widow.  The 
residence  also  of  the  British  consul  is  an  excellent  one. 
There  is  a  fine  court-yard,  with  trees,  shrubs,  flowers, 
and  fountains,  and  obtained  on  very  easy  terms. 

I  \'isited  again  the  gate  of  St.  John's  Church — a  fine 
specimen  of  ancient  architecture ;  it  may  be  of  the  age 
of  the  Romans,  or  possibly  earlier,  and  afterwards  adopted 
for  a  Christian  church.  I  went  also  to  see  the  interior 
of  two  Jewish  residences,  and  found  them  exceedingly 
beautiful,  and  even  magnificent.  I  can  imagine  that, 
without  strong  religious  feeling,  an  Israelite  occupying 
such  residences,  would  veiy  unwillingly  take  up  his  abode 
amidst  the  squalor  and  wretchedness  of  the  Jews'  quarter 
in  Jerusalem.  There  is  nothing  in  the  exterior  of  these 
Damascus  mansions  to  commend  them — nothing  to  in- 
dicate the  wealth  and  luxury  within.  But  the  court- 
yards are  beautifully  paved  with  marble  in  mosaic  work  ; 
and  fountains  abound.  Trees,  flowers,  shrubs,  climbing- 
plants,  give  variety  and  elegance.  The  room^  are  halls — 
splendid  saloons,  lofty,  and  richly  ornamented,  and  some 
of  them  elegantly  furnished.  The  good  lady  of  a  house 
at  which  we  called  was  at  home,  a  comely  dame,  sitting 
with  her  maidens,  busily  occupied  with  some  domestic 
affairs.  She  made  no  difficulty  in  admitting  us  to  see 
the  apartments ;  in  fact,  she  seemed  pleased  to  allow  us 
to  do  so.  It  afforded  her  servants  the  opportunity  of 
receiving  some  little  "  backsheesh." 

On  leaving  Damascus  we  had  a  long  and  fatiguing 
day's   ride   to   Zcbedani.     The  view   of  Damascus   from 


LEBANOX.  483 

the  hills  immediately  above  the  village  of  Selahiah,  is 
most  delightful  and  magnificent.  The  hills  conduct  to 
Anti-libanus  ;  the  path  is  winding  and  difficult.  We 
passed  a  few  villages  and  considerable  herds  of  cattle. 
There  is  much  cultivation.  Oaks,  poplars,  and  olives, 
abound.  We  found  that  much  snow  had  fallen  as  we 
continued  our  ascent. 

After  some  lingering  delay  on  the  part  of  the  muleteers 
in  starting,  we  at  length  set  out  for  Baalbec.  We  were 
still  crossing  Anti-libanus,  and  about  mid-day  came  in 
sight  of  Lebanon  itself — the  vast  towering  range  of  Leba- 
non, with  its  glorious  heights  covered  with  snow.  On 
descending  from  our  heights,  we  came  to  the  vast  and 
rich  plain  of  Bekaah,  perhaps  the  Baca  of  the  84th  Psalm. 
We  passed  on  our  descent  immense  portions  of  rock, 
which  1  take  to  be  porphyritic  slate,  originally  of  the 
Silurian  formation.  We  came  then  to  a  fine  stream 
passing  to  the  north-icest.  Hitherto  all  the  streams  had 
run  in  the  opposite  direction,  the  south-east. 

I  hoped  to  have  reached  Baalbec  by  sunset,  and  to 
have  enjoyed  the  sight  of  the  ruins  at  that  moment ; 
but  it  was  impracticable.  It  became  dark  half-an-hour 
before  we  arrived,  and  I  could  but  just  distinguish  some- 
thing elevated  before  I  reached  the  convent.  This 
something  consisted  of  the  six  splendid  columns  that 
constitute  one  of  the  finest  portions  of  the  rains.  At 
the  convent  I  found  tolerable  accommodations.  One 
padre  was  there,  of  the  name  of  Bartany,  a  Greek  Catholic. 
He  was  friendly  and  tried  to  be  attentive,  but  we  could 
hold  very  little  conversation  together..  He  knew  only 
Italian  and  Arabic,  and  with  these  my  acquaintance  was 
far  too  limited  for  the  purposes  of  easy  intercourse. 

Soon  after  daybreak,  next  morning,  I  set  out  with  my 
dragoman  to  visit  the  niins  of  Baalbec.  I  took  with  me 
Lord  Lindsay's  volume,  containing  his  description  of 
them,  that  I  might  use  it  on  the  spot  and  make  myself 
familiar   with   the  site  and  ruins  by  his  aid.     But  rain 


48-4  ItUINS  OF  BAALBEC. 

came  on,  and  I  found  I  could  do  no  more  than  take  a 
hasty  glance  of  the  mighty  and  awful  scene,  and  then 
proceed  on  my  journey,  anxious  to  reach  Beyrut  with 
as  little  delay  as  possible,  so  that  I  might  be  in  time 
for  the  steamer  to  Alexandria.  I  will,  therefore,  only 
say,  that  I  was  awe-struck  with  these  immense,  these 
marvellous  ruins.  I  gazed  with  astonishment  on  their 
grandeur — grandeur  though  in  ruins,  the  very  embodi- 
ment of  ruined  magnificence,  and  where  the  veiy  ruins 
seem  to  be  imj^erishable  !  They  are  not  mere  piles  of 
buildings,  but  of  exquisite  and  elaborate  workmanship  ; 
and  the  skill  employed  in  elevating  such  masses  of 
masonry,  must  have  been  prodigious.  The  mind  that 
planned  all  this  work  must  have  been  a  master  mind, 
and  the  wealth  and  munificence  that  could  command 
all  this  must  have  been  of  the  highest  order. 

And  yet,  this  was  not  done  to  the  glory  of  God — to  Him 
of  whom  are  all  things,  and  to  whom  all  must  ultimately, 
and  ought  primarily,  to  be  consecrated.  The  temples  are 
ruins  ;  but  they  are  splendid  monuments  of  heathenism, 
and  might  well  admonish  Christians,  with  their  far  higher 
privileges  and  attainments,  how  much  is  demanded  of  them. 
"Wherever  much  is  given,  much  will  be  required." 

As  I  rode  away  from  these  ruins,  I  turned  as  often  as  I 
could,  to  take  anotlier  and  another  view  of  them.  It  was 
such  a  scene  as  I  had  never  beheld  before,  and,  most  pro- 
bably, never  should  again.  The  world  has  nothing  equal 
to  it.  I  went  down  into  the  long  vaults  or  passages  under 
the  temple,  on  which,  indeed,  the  platform  of  the  temple 
stands.  Even  these  underground  arched  vaults  are  works 
of  surprising  extent.  They  are  now  used  chiefly  by  mule- 
teers, as  resting-places  while  on  their  journey  ! 

I  proceeded  to  the  quarry,  at  a  short  distance  from  tlie 
ruins,  and  rode  round  that  immense  block,  cut  from  the 
solid  rock,  though  not  yet  detached  from  it,  mentioned  by 
all  travellers.  It  is  about  seventy  feet  long,  twelve  feet 
wide,  and  fifteen  deep.     An  amazing  mass  !     How  it  was 


KAIL  STORMS.  485 

intended  to  remove  it,  I  cannot  tell.     Its  weight  is  esti 
mated  at  above  one  thousand  tons  !     No  voice  survives  to 
explain  its  design. 

At  Baalbec,  I  went  also  to  see  the  small  circular  Corin- 
thian temi^le,  with  its  columns  and  niches,  which  yet 
remains.  It  must  have  been  very  chaste  and  beautiful 
in  its  original  state.  And  after  leaving  Baalbec,  there  are 
some  fine  columns  on  the  road,  still  upright,  and  forming 
some  kind  of  building  that  I  could  not  understand.  They 
are  formed  of  red  granite. 

The  rain  was  now  drenching  us,  and  my  people  wished 
to  remain  at  a  village,  which  we  reached  at  half-past  ten. 
This  I  positively  refused  to  do  ;  and  we  kept  on  till  two 
o'clock,  when,  coming  to  a  village  called  Habla,  we  obtained 
a  house,  and  agreed  to  remain  there  for  the  night.  The 
people  were  civil  and  hospitable.  My  people  told  me  we 
could  not  proceed  in  the  morning,  if  there  were  rain  ;  as 
rains  in  the  lower  country  would  be  snow,  ice,  and  hail 
as  we  ascended  the  mountains,  which  we  must  now  pass  on 
our  road  to  Beyrut.  However,  they  came  in  the  morning 
to  say  they  wished  to  go  forward  to  another  village,  at 
three  hours'  distance,  otherwise  the  path  might  become  so 
frozen  that  we  should  not  be  able  to  go  on  for  a  length  of 
time.  Parties,  they  assured  me,  have  been  detained  ten, 
twenty,  thirty,  and  even  forty  days,  and  sometimes  the 
journey  proves  fatal ;  the  mules  become  unable  to  keep 
their  footing  :  they  fall  and  perish.  The  travellers,  being 
thus  left  to  walk,  find  they  cannot  long  boar  up  against  the 
cold,  and  they  perish  too.  A  party,  with  fourteen  mules, 
was  some  few  years  ago  conveying  money  to  Constanti- 
nople, to  the  Government.  The  people  and  the  mules  all 
perished,  and  the  money  was  found  on  the  spot,  on  the 
return  of  tlie  spring  and  the  melting  of  the  ice  and  snow. 
These  were  no  very  pleasing  associations,  certainly,  and  I 
was  glad  to  find  my  people  anxious  to  press  forward,  so  as 
to  get  out  of  the  region  of  delay  and  danger.  We  set  out 
at  nine,  but  a  fierce  hailstorm  drove  us  back  again.     This 


486  VILLAGE  OF  MALAKA. 

subsided,  and  we  recommenced  our  journey,  kept  on  till 
about  eleven,  and  then  took  up  our  quartei's  at  a  village 
called  Malaka,  where  the  people  assured  us  it  was  impos- 
sible to  proceed  farther  without  most  imminent  danger. 
"  If  you  wish  to  die,"  said  they,  "  go  forward  ;  if  not,  re- 
main here."  This  Adllage  is  about  three  miles  from  Zachle, 
a  somewhat  important  place  for  manufactures.  Malaka 
has  about  2000  inhabitants  ;  chiefly  consisting  of  Maronites, 
and  Greek  and  Latin  Catholics.  There  are  no  Moham- 
medans. I  remained  all  the  next  day  at  that  village,  as  the 
weather  still  rendered  it  impossible  to  advance.  Some 
Metualis,  I  was  told,  reside  here.  These  form  a  sect  of 
INIohammedans.  There  are,  in  the  Anjaiy  mountains  to 
the  north,  some  Metuali  Anjaries,  whose  worship  appears, 
from  the  account  given  me,  to  be  exceedingly  impure. 
They  may  be  descendants  of  ancient  heathens,  as  wor- 
shippers of  Ashtaroth.  They  forbid  any  strangers  to  be 
present  at  their  orgies.  Should  any  one  dare  to  intrude, 
he  would  be  sacrificed  to  their  resentment,  and  pay  the 
penalty  of  death  for  his  temerity.  They  veil  their  cere- 
monies in  profound  secrecy,  and,  if  reports  be  true,  may 
well  enough  do  so. 

We  left  Malaka  about  nine,  and  proceeded,  amidst  hea%y 
rains,  across  the  Bekaah,  till  we  began  to  ascend  Leba- 
non. Torrents  were  everywhere  gushing  along,  formed 
principally  by  these  late  rains  and  snows.  We  reached 
Khan  el  Mereri  Job,  and  there  found  several  parties  wait- 
ing to  go  forward  to  Beyrut.  Some  had  been  part  of  the 
way,  and  then  returned  on  account  of  the  impassable  state 
of  the  path.  The  khan  stands  on  a  hill.  It  is  farmed  of 
the  government  by  a  native,  for  about  1000  piastres  a-year 
(£10),  and  the  man  realises  his  profit  by  the  sale  of  a  few 
eggs,  poultry,  a  little  bread,  &c.,  to  travellers.  The  view  is 
fine  over  the  valley,  where  the  industrious  hand  of  culti- 
vation is  abundantly  visible. 

We  left  the  khan  early,  not  a  little  encouraged  by  find- 
ing that  snow  had  fallen  dming  the  night,  as  being  safer  to 


BEYRUT.  487 

walk  over  than  masses  of  congealed  hail.  The  wind  had 
also  changed  in  our  favour,  and  we  were  led  to  think  there 
would  not  be  rain  during  the  day.  We  pressed  forward 
with  as  much  speed  as  possible,  but  it  was  with  extreme 
difficulty.  Many  parts  of  our  road  were  dangerously  slip- 
pery; the  mules  fell  under  the  burdens,  and  both  horses 
and  riders  came  down.  Still  we  had  no  relief.  Our  only 
safety  was  in  urging  our  way  forward.  In  about  three 
hours  we  reached  the  highest  portion  of  the  movmtain  we 
were  crossing,  but  which  was  far  to  the  south  of  that  part 
of  Lebanon  where  the  famous  cedars  are  found.  It  was 
perfectly  out  of  the  question  to  visit  them.  The  road 
thither  was  entirely  blocked  up  at  that  season,  with  snow. 
The  highest  range  of  Lebanon  is  11,000  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  The  part  where  we  crossed  is  thought 
to  be  about  8000.  It  occupied  us  more  than  seven  hours 
to  descend,  and  reach  Beyrut,  the  ancient  Berytus.  We 
arrived  there  in  the  evening,  after  having  halted  half-an- 
hour  on  our  way  down  the  mountain,  at  a  khan,  where  we 
obtained  some  acceptable  Arab  refreshments,  coffee,  thin 
bread,  honey,  cheese,  and  wine. 

I  was  heartily  glad  when  the  lights  in  and  about  the 
town  of  Beyrut  began  to  appear,  and  it  had  been  with  no 
small  pleasure  that  I  had  seen  on  my  way  down  the 
mountain,  one  steamer,  if  not  two,  in  the  bay,  so  that  I 
indulged  the  hope  I  might  yet  be  in  time  to  overtake  the 
"  Nile,"  and  reach  Alexandria  at  the  time  I  desired ; 
namely,  a  day  or  two  prior  to  the  departure  of  the  Oriental 
Company's  steamer  to  Southampton. 

My  dragoman  conducted  me  to  "Belle  Vue  Hotel,"  which 
is  kept  by  a  Greek  of  the  name  of  Demetrius.  Its  ac- 
commodations are  good.  I  partook  of  refreshment,  and 
soon  retired  to  rest,  thankful  that  I  had  now  reached  the 
termination  of  my  journey,  where  I  might  bid  farewell  to 
camels,  mules,  and  donkeys,  as  I  had  done  to  oxen  and 
wagons  on  leaving  the  Cape,  and  that  henceforth  I  had 
only  to  do  with  British  steamers. 


488  BETRUT. 

Never  can  there  be  effaced  from  my  memory  the  three 
last  days  of  1850  and  the  first  of  1851.  They  were 
intensely  cold,  and  the  journey  was  extremely  fatiguing. 
Yet  I  envy  not  the  man  who  would  not  gratefully  endure 
all  that  cold  and  all  that  fatigue  for  the  sake  of  the  glorious 
scenes  which  I  was  then  permitted  to  witness, — the  mag- 
nificent ruins  of  Baalbec — the  rich  and  richly  cultivated 
valley  of  Bekaah,  and  the  twin  mountain  ranges  of  Lebanon 
and  Anti-Lebanon,  with  all  their  glorious  heights. 

And  then  Beyrut  itself  is  a  beautiful  spot,  and  its 
country  romantic  and  delicious.  It  is  fast  rising  into  com- 
mercial importance.  It  contains  already  European  wealth, 
intelligence  and  enterprise,  and  with  these  its  commanding 
position  ensures  its  prosperity. 

I  soon  made  my  arrangement  for  leaving  by  the  "  Nile" 
steamer  for  Alexandria,  but  had  sufficient  time  remaining 
to  call  on  Colonel  Rose,  Consul  General  of  Syria,  and  Mr. 
Moore,  Consul  for  Beirut,  on  Pvev.  Eli  Smith  of  the  Ame- 
rican Mission,  and  to  visit  the  valuable  printing  establish- 
ment under  his  superintendence.  I  found  Mr.  Smith  busily 
engaged  on  a  new  version  of  the  Scriptures  in  Arabic, 
direct  from  the  Hebrew.  The  version  at  present  in  use 
was  made  from  the  Vulgate,  and  is  considered  less  faithful 
and  correct  than  could  be  desired. 

I  had  left  my  muleteers  on  the  road  in  charge  of  my 
luggage.  They  safely  overtook  me  the  next  morning.  I 
paid  them  for  twenty  days'  tour  from  Jerusalem,  including 
the  three  spent  at  Damascus.  The  charge  was  65  piastres, 
(6s.  6d.)  a  day,  including  two  horses,  three  mules  and  three 
men  to  attend  them.  I  rode  the  whole  distance  on  horse- 
back. My  dragoman  did  also.  The  mules  conveyed  the 
goods,  and  no  accident  befel  any  of  them,  beyond  a  little 
slipping  about  and  an  occasional  fall  amidst  the  icy  paths 
of  Lebanon. 

I  passed  an  agi-eeable  evening  with  Colonel  Rose,  (son 
of  Sir  George  Rose)  and  a  party  of  friends,  and  was  glad  to 
embrace  the  opportunity  of  conversing  with  the  Consul- 


ALEXANDRIA  TO  SOUTHAMPTON.  489 

General  on  the  affairs  of  Aleppo  and  of  Syria,  and  of  the 
Mohammedans,  so  far  as  they  had  fallen  under  his  own 
observation. 

The  next  afternoon,  having  settled  with  my  attendant 
Barzily,  who  had  accompanied  me  all  the  way  from  Cairo, 
I  embarked  on  board  the  "Nile,"  and  we  proceeded  very 
pleasantly  at  ten  knots  an  hour  towards  Alexandria,  our 
destination.  The  "  Nile"  is  propelled  by  a  screw,  and 
worked  with  much  ease.     Our  distance  was  360  miles. 

On  reaching  Alexandria  we  found  that  the  Company's 
steamer,  the  "Papon,"  had  arrived  after  an  unusually  quick 
passage  from  Southampton,  and  was  again  just  about  re- 
turning. The  captain  of  the  "Nile"  having  discharged  his 
cargo,  and  the  passengers  who  intended  to  remain  at 
Alexandria  being  left  in  the  lazaretto  there,  he  promj)tly 
and  politely  conveyed  me  round  from  the  quarantine 
harbour,  to  that  in  which  the  "  Eipou"  was  receiving  her 
cargo  and  passengers,  and  by  three  o'clock  (5th  January)  I 
was  transferred  alongside  that  noble  steamer,  and  as  soon 
as  the  usual  quarantine  regulations  had  been  complied 
with,  I  was  admitted  on  board.  It  was  some  little  disap- 
pointment not  to  have  time  allowed  for  visiting  the  popular 
antiquities  and  modern  lions  of  Alexandria,  but  there  was 
compensation  in  the  thought  that  I  was  now  fjiirly  on  my 
way  to  "  that  land  of  every  land  the  best, — my  home."  We 
had  remarkably  fine  weather,  agreeable  passengers,  and  a 
commander  of  most  sterling  value — Captain  Moresby.  We 
anticipated  reaching  Malta  within  four  days  after  leaving 
Alexandria,  then  Gibraltar  in  five  more,  and  witliin  another 
five,  Southampton  itself.  And  all  this,  thi-ough  the  mi- 
ceasing  care  of  Him  "  in  whom  we  live  and  move  and  have 
our  being,"  we  were  permitted  to  accomplish,  and  on  the 
evening  of  the  20th  January  I  again  trod  the  terra  firma  of 
Old  England,  and  found  a  most  fraternal  welcome  from  the 
Kev.  T.  Adkins,  of  Southampton,  at  whose  family  altar  I 
was  privileged  to  join  at  the  hour  of  evening  worship,  and 
under  whose  hospitable  roof  I  passed  the  first  niglit  on 
my  return  to  my  native  shores. 


490  RETURN  HOME. 

Kindly  aided  in  completing  all  my  little  arrangements 
at  the  Custom  House,  I  was  early  on  my  way  to  London, 
and  it  seemed  to  be  a  treat,  after  the  leisurely  paces  of 
oxen,  camels,  and  mules,  to  find  myself  once  more  keeping 
pace  w^ith  the  times  we  live  in,  and  in  one  hour  on  the 
South-Western  Railway,  performing  a  whole  days  work 
of  an  African  or  Syrian  traveller. 

Four  such  hours  placed  me  again  within  my  family 
circle,  from  which  no  one  had  been  removed  by  accident 
or  death  during  my  absence.  I  had  been  followed  during 
all  my  tour  by  a  mother's  anxious  prayers,  and  the  earnest 
prayers  of  many.  She  was  spared  to  greet  my  return,  and 
I,  to  attend  the  closing  hours  of  her  pilgrimage.  She  has 
now  entered  into  her  rest,  and  her  memory  will  long  be 
fragrant.  May  the  many  supplications  which  she  oflFered 
return  in  showers  of  blessings  on  those  she  has  left  of  her 
family  and  the  church,  to  the  latest  generations  ! 

The  next  day  after  reaching  London,  I  met  some  of  the 
Directors  and  members  of  the  Missionary  Society' ;  and, 
as  soon  as  possible,  the  gi-eat  body  of  the  Directors,  both 
of  the  metropolis  and  tlie  provinces.  To  them  I  presented 
the  official  report  of  my  visitation.  Since  then,  I  have 
had  the  opportunity  of  making  many  communications,  at 
various  public  meetings  of  the  constituents  of  the  Society  ; 
and  I  have  now  endeavoured,  through  the  pages  of  this 
volume,  to  detail  facts,  which  I  have  hoped  might  deepen 
the  sympathy  of  the  Christian  public  in  the  entei-prise  of 
Missions,  under  the  strongest  assurance,  that  such  labour 
is  not  in  vain  in  the  Lord. 

During  my  tour  of  two  years  and  a  quarter,  I  had  learned 
many  things  abroad ;  and  now,  on  my  return,  I  found  I 
had  many  also  to  learn  at  home,  and  not  the  least,  tlie 
movement  on  the  Papal  question. 

The  last  news  I  had  heard  on  leaving  England  at  the 
close  of  1848  was,  that  the  Pope  had  fled  from  Piome,  and 
was  at  Gaeta  !  The  f.rst  news  on  my  return  was,  that  of 
the  Papal  aggression — the  appointment  of  a  Cardinal  for 


POPERY  .VXD  PKOTESTANTISM'.  491 

Englishmen,  in  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century — ■ 
and  the  aroused  spirit  of  English  Protestantism  in  resist- 
ing the  imposition  of  "  a  yoke,  that  neither  we  nor  our 
fathers  could  hear." 

Assuredly  I  had  seen  nothing  in  all  my  tour  to  shake 
my  faith  or  principles  as  a  Protestant,  nothing  to  make 
me  willing  to  surrender  one  particle  of  civil  or  religious 
freedom,  to  give  up  one  atom  of  liherty  of  conscience,  or 
of  the  right  of  placing  the  Sacred  Volume  in  the  hands  of 
every  man  heneath  the  skies.  I  came  home  with  the 
deepest  impression,  that  ivherever  Popery  advances,  the  in- 
terests of  humanity  recede ;  that  the  Protestant  faith  is  the 
hulwark  of  English  liberty,  and  the  guarantee  of  Britain's 
elevation  ;  and  that,  if  that  faith  perish  from  our  land, 
political  anarchy,  social  degradation,  and  moral  ruin  must 
as  inevitably  follow,  as  the  shadows  of  evening  and  the 
darkness  of  night  follow  the  setting  of  the  sun. 

I  have  now  closed  the  sketch  of  my  "  Tour,"  and  offered 
in  passing,  the  incidental  remarks  which  I  thought  ex- 
pedient. I  forbear  to  detain  my  readers  longer.  I  will 
only  say : — 

1 .  If  I  have  failed  to  awaken  an  interest  in  Christian 
Missions,  there  is  verily  a  fault  in  me.  The  Missions 
themselves  are  not  a  failure,  or  "  then  the  world  is  a 
failure,  and  every  thing  is  a  failure."  The  native  tribes  of 
South  Africa  are  indebted  for  their  preservation,  their 
liberty^  their  intelligence,  their  social  advantages,  and  their 
religion,  to  Christian  Missions. 

2.  I  shall  deejjly  lament  if  I  have  not  shown  cause  for 
Britain's  interference  on  behalf  of  the  coloured  races  of 
Southern  Africa.  I  long  to  see  introduced  wiser  and 
better  methods  of  treating  them,  and  the  "rule  made  abso- 
lute,'' that  the  power  wliich  Britain  would  not  dare  emj^loy 
in  offering  an  affront  to  any  one  of  the  civilised  nations  of 
Europe  that  could  defend  itself,  shall  not  be  abused  in 
robbing  or  crushing  one  of  the  meanest  tribes  of  Africa. 
that  cannot  resist  and  defend  itself. 


492  FINAL  REMARKS. 

3.  I  see  that  in  the  onward  movements  of  Divine  Provi- 
dence immense  fields  for  the  Christian  enterprise  of  the 
British  Churches  are  opening  in  Africa  and  in  Asia.  Let 
no  man  deem  the  work  too  vast  for  accomplishment,  for 
God  is  on  our  side.  Let  no  man  count  his  own  efforts  too 
mean  to  be  of  value,  for  God  works  through  feeble  instru- 
mentality. An  infant  hand  may  plant  the  acorn — gerai  of 
the  future  and  majestic  oak  of  the  forest ;  only,  "  What- 
soever thy  hand  findeth  to  do,  do  it  with  thy  might." 

4.  I  trust  that  Egypt  and  Palestine  may  share  the 
thoughts  and  s}Tnpathies  of  many  in  our  land,  as  well  as 
Southern  Africa.  If  the  outline  of  my  tour  in  those  lands 
of  indelible  interest,  shall  tempt  some  of  my  ministerial 
brethren  and  friends  to  visit  them  and  aid  them,  I  shall 
have  rendered  them  and  those  countries  valuable  service. 

Finally.  The  more  I  have  seen  of  other  lands,  the  more 
grateful  I  am  for  Britain ;  I  love  her  laws,  her  institutions, 
her  government,  her  freedom,  her  sovereign,  her  2'eligion  ; 
and  if  I  have  Avhispered  of  things,  or  spoken  plainly  of 
things,  that  need  correction,  it  is  not  because  I  love  those 
less,  but  because  I  love  them  more. 


REFP    A^^D    PARDON,    PRINTERS,    PATERNOSTER    ROW,    LONDON. 


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4  NEW   WORKS   PUBLISHED   BY  JOHN   SNOW, 

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gination truly  poetical,  with  a  stern  honesty  of  aim,  and  a  sanctilied  zeal  for  truth." — 
Herald  of  Peace. 

BY    THE    SAME    AUTHOR. 

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Lord's  Supper.     Is. 

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Edition,  Bd. 

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Edition,  -id. 

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6  NEW   WORKS   PUBLISHED   BY   JOHN   SNOW, 

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Home  Missionary  Magazine. 


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Psalms  and  Hymns.     By 

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